THE VEGETABLE 
GARDEN 



THE VEGETABLE 
GARDEN 

ILLLeTRATIONS, DESCRIPTIONS, AND 
CULTURE OF THE GARDEN VEGETABLES 
OF COLD AND TEMPERATE CLIMATES 
BY MM. VILMORIN-ANDRIEUX, OF PARIS 
ENGLISH EDITION, PUBLISHED UNDER 
THE DIRECTION OF W. ROBINSON 

AUTHOR OF "THE ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN** 
"THE PARKS OF PARIS," ETC, 



WITH AN ADDENDUM 
BY W. P. THOMSON 

THIRD EDITION • 



NEW YORK 
E. P- DUTTON AND COMPANY 

T 920 



I7 



PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION 



During the years of the War, vegetable growing received a decided 
stimulus, and in preparing a new edition of " The VEGETABLE 
Garden " it has been thought advisable to include the new 
material in the form of an Addendum, to which references will be 
found in the form of footnotes in the body of the work. 

A list of the newer varieties of our well-known vegetables — 
Peas, Potatoes, Cabbage, etc., is given with notes on their 
cultivation. 

Descriptions of some really distinct new vegetables, as the 
White Sunroot (Jerusalem Artichoke), Daw's Champion Rhubarb, 
etc., have been added. In the case of Onions, no mention was 
made in the earlier edition of the handsome bulbs that are now to 
be seen at vegetable exhibitions during the autumn. How to raise 
and grow these form the subject of one of the added paragraphs ; 
while the various diseases that attack vegetables and their remedy 
have also been dealt with. These include the terrible scourge, 
the wart-disease of Potatoes. As it has been proved that some 
varieties of Potatoes are immune fj-om wart disease when grown 
on infected soil, the names of the sorts that, after extended trial, 
can be depended on to remain immune have been given. The 
growing of winter Tomatoes has also received attention. 

W. P. T. 



V 



PREFACE 



Many books on the cultivation of vegetables have been written, 
but " The Vegetable Garden " is the first book in any language 
which classifies, describes, and illustrates these most important of 
all plants to the human race. No excuse is needed for " making 
English " such a book for the benefit, not only of our own horti- 
culture, but also that of America, and of Australia and our other 
colonies, in which the plants herein described may be grown. 
It will enable us to realise the wonderful variety of light, pleasant, 
and excellent food now within our reach, and make many good 
vegetables more widely known. 

The relation of these plants to the movement towards food 
reform calls for a word at the present time. Leaving out of view 

any exclusive tendency of this kind, all agree that the 

greater use of the best vegetables in our food would 
be a gain. The reason why the more delicate vegetable foods are 
neglected is because the cooks of Europe have served an appren- 
ticeship of a thousand years on the carcases of ox, pig, sheep, and 
we are meat-eaters because our fathers had little else to eat. The 
plains and hills of the cold north were dotted with wild grazing 
animals, as an English park is with deer, or a Western prairie 
with antelope, and men killed and cooked the only food they had. 
A few generations only have passed since our now commonest 
vegetables came from the Continent. We are adding to their 
number every day, and by the aid of cultivation we are winning 
back our way to a simpler, healthier food. 

In London the chaotic struggle in Covent Garden tends to 
deprive us of the good qualities of the garden produce so well 

grown in the suburban fields. One simple way to 
^^^Needed^^^^ improvement would be the adoption of district 

markets for local supplies. It is not necessary that 
permanent structures should be built : a wide road, or square, or 



viii 



PREFACE 



river embankment, would suffice. As wholesale dealings of this 
kind are usually done in the morning hours, it would be easy to 
make good use of open spaces for this purpose. Some of the 
useful little district markets of Paris are held in public squares 
and on the boulevards, and an hour after they are over, tents, 
stands, refuse, and all other signs of the market are swept away. 
Those who have their own gardens do not suffer from the ill- 
managed markets of our cities, but thousands have no remedy save 
through the improvements of our markets, the Paris markets being 
a model of what is best in that way. 

The " muddle " method of planting the food garden with fruit 
trees and bushes, and so cutting up the surface with walks, edgings, 
etc., that the object of the garden is frustrated, should 
be changed. We cannot grow vegetables well under 
trees, and in attempting to do so we destroy the roots of the trees, 
and is one cause of our poor garden-fruit culture. One-half of the 
■ space wholly given to vegetables, divested of walks, large hedges, old 
frame grounds, old walls, rubbish, and other impedimenta, would 
give a far better supply. It is not merely the ugliness and the loss 
of the over-mixed garden which we have to deplore, but the wasted 
labours of the men who have to look after such gardens. How are 
they to succeed, with the many things so hopelessly mixed up — 
and perhaps rank groves of elms or other trees, their roots robbing 
half the space ? Put the fruit trees in one part — the higher ground, 
if any — and devote the remaining part to vegetables, cultivating the 
ground in the best way as a fertile garden. The vegetables, too, 
would be more wholesome for good light and air ; for shade from 
ragged and profitless trees and bushes and hedges is one of the 
evils of this hopeless kind of garden. The broken crops, too 
(for the most part sickly patches), are not such as one can be 
proud of. The many excellent vegetables grown for the Paris 
market are grown in the full sun, and these gardens are a lesson 
in good culture, and the quantity grown in them in proportion to 
their size. 

It is the rule in most British gardens to give far too much 
space to the coarser vegetables like Cabbage and Potatoes, and far 
too little to the more delicate and nutritious kinds, 
^r^the^Best ^^^^ which are usually not grown at all, or so ill 
grown as to be useless. The Greens and other vege- 
tables that go with our joints are the coarsest, least nutritious, and 



PREFACE 



ix 



most indigestible of all, and there can be no full gain in a garden 
which does not include the vegetables which are served abroad as 
dishes by themselves, and indeed are quite worthy to stand alone. 
Leaving aside those not to be grown in our climate, we have 
among others Scorzonera, Salsafy, Lettuces, and Endives ; with 
us there is great waste in not using Lettuces and Endive, and 
particularly the Batavian Endive, as vegetables ; for good cookery 
they are far more important than Greens. Celeriac, an excellent 
vegetable, is rarely well grown with us. Cardoons are first-rate 
vegetables for our country, for which our soil and climate are 
well suited. Indian Corn, too, thrives in all the southern parts of 
the country, and, well grown, forms an excellent vegetable. Then 
there are Artichokes of the best varieties, edible-podded Runner 
Beans, edible-podded Dwarf Beans, early small Carrots, such as 
the French Early Horn, Witloof, Corn Salad, Potiron jaune, and 
Winter Gourds. The variety of delicious Gourds available during 
summer, and the keeping kinds through a great part of the winter, 
is a revelation to those who know nothing beyond the Vegetable 
Marrow. 

For owners of gardens, big or little, there is waste through not 
gathering vegetables in the tender state. In almost every garden, in 

summer and autumn, one sees Kidney Beans and Peas 
^est^Stage^ in an uneatable state, useless themselves, and robbing 

the plant of the power to give a succession of eatable 
pods. All such crops should be gathered at the right time, whether 
wanted or not. Those who want vegetables in their best condition 
only would find it profitable to gather and give away rather than 
pursue the usual way of growing only to waste. It is a practice of 
market g rdeners to allow things to get old and hard before gathering, 
so as to fill their baskets. They must be the best judges of their own 
affairs, but this practice is the cause of market vegetables being 
often almost uneatable. In Paris the cook has the upper hand, and 
no grower dare send him the woody fibre which is so largely sent 
as vegetables to the London market. It is an error to suppose that 
those who grow their own fruits and vegetables must pay more for 
them than they would in the market. The gain in having them 
fresh would be worth paying for. The advantage which all who 
live in their gardens enjoy might be much increased by growing 
only things good in flavour, and gathering them in their best state 
for the table. But it needs very strong pressure on the part of 



X 



PREFACE 



owners to have things sent in their tenderest and best condition 
for the table. 

All who have gardens should fight against the deterioration 
of some of our best vegetables through the mania for size. 

Although the flavour of vegetables may not be so 
Qual^y^before Qj^yjQ^g Qf fruit, it is often their essential quality. 

A change in size, by adding to the watery tissue 
of the plant, may destroy the flavour, and doubling or trebling 
the size of the article itself, as has been done in the case of the 
Brussels Sprout, which is no longer the same little rosette of green, 
but a coarse Cabbage sprout. Bad, too, is the raising of new 
varieties lacking in flavour, and abolishing old kinds, from sup- 
posed deficiency in size. There has been, for example, for the 
last few years a French Bean in our markets, very large, but 
without any of the good flavour of the smaller kinds, but its 
huge mawkish pod has become popular with the market-gardener. 
Here is a delicate vegetable, the value of which depends entirely 
upon its flavour, and whether we get six beans or one bean 
matters little if the object of growing the vegetable is lost sight 
of. Sometimes a flavour may be too rich : many good cooks 
in London prefer the little long Turnip of the Paris market, 
which has a truer Turnip flavour, to some of the sweet kinds. 
We may lose much of what makes a garden worth having by 
not controlling the harmful efforts for size unaccompanied by 
other and more desirable qualities. Often Potatoes and Tomatoes 
and other things are raised and praised much, which in flavour 
are wholly inferior to the older kinds. 

Loss and confusion arise from the practice now common 
among seedsmen of naming almost every good vegetable after 

themselves. England has almost a monopoly of 
^to^NamL^^ ^^^^ practice, which is not carried out in France. 

Honourable houses may do it for self-protection 
with us, but it is nevertheless a loss to the public, and scarcely 
less so to the trade. To be able to secure pure stocks of long- 
tried standard vegetables is not easy for the public while the 
seedsman affixes a new name and the name of his house to 
almost everything he sells. One cause of failure is too many 
kinds — too many experimental plantings, instead of the garden 
being devoted to the things we know and like. This is a common 
error owing to the chaotic state of the names of vegetables. 



PREFACE 



xi 



Seedsmen and growers, at home, in our colonies, and in foreign 
countries, are compelled again and again to buy old things under 
new names, and to test them before embarking in their sale. If 
the practice were confined to the really new kinds raised, it would 
be fair. A common way of giving these new names is to secure a 
well-selected stock of seed of some old, good kind, and re-name 
it. Of late years we have seen in London, Orchid, Pear, and 
other conferences, which have had really little more serious 
raison d'etre than the vanity or amusement of their promoters. 
The nomenclature of our most valuable garden crops might 
well occupy the attention of a body composed of representative 
seedsmen and growers. It would not be very difficult to seek 
out and give their true names to all the older and finer types 
of our vegetables, and prevent confusion in the future without 
interfering with the right to name a real novelty in a fitting 
way. 

Even if we have all we desire in the way of good culture and 
varieties, there remains the question of cookery, which is sadly 
Improved need of change with us. In places of public resort 
Cookery of where the best meat, game, and fish are to be had, 
Vegetables and the cooking of even the commonest vegetables is 
Cereals. disgraceful. Ill gathered, overgrown, they are so 
cooked as to be uneatable. There is a movement now in the 
way of cooking the best vegetables in their own juices, by braising 
and stewing ; and not throwing their nutritious juices away in 
quantities of water. However much our own cookery may im- 
prove in this way, much more is to be expected from the study 
of the ways of nations who live almost wholly on vegetable food. 
The best Italian cooks treat rice and the products of wheat so 
well that they form a complete and delicious food ; the Indian 
vegetable curries are famous, and the Arabs have very agreeable 
dishes of vegetable food delicately flavoured. Among these 
people we see that good cookery even of a few simple things 
will give complete nourishment to man. How much more, 
therefore, might be expected from the vast range and variety of 
foods within our reach in all fertile countries, and how well 
worth our while it is to improve our ways of dealing with them ! 
This concerns not only green vegetables, but cereals, pulse, roots, 
and fruits. 

Books do not help us much in this way, because they are 



xii 



PREFACE 



usually based on the older ways as to flesh food ; but there is one 
just come out which is helpful, and that is Colonel Kenny 
Herbert's book on " Vegetarian and Simple Diet " (Swan Sonnen- 
schein). The fact that it leaves out such a rich source of food as 
the Apple shows the vastness of the subject. Of all sources of 
garden food nothing is more precious and varied than the finest 
apples of America and Britain. Good in the raw state, they add 
a variety of delicate dishes which nothing else equals. 



AUTHORS' PREFACE 



{Abstract) 

We have had some difficulty in fixing the limits within which we 
should confine ourselves in this work. It is not always easy to 
define exactly what a " vegetable" is, and to decide upon the plants 
to which the term is applicable and those to which it is not. In 
this respect, however, we thought it better to be a little over- 
indulgent rather than too strict, and, accordingly, we have admitted 
into the present work not only the plants which are generally 
grown for use in the green state, but also those which are merely 
employed for flavouring others, and even some which at the present 
day have, for the most part, disappeared from the kitchen garden, 
but which we find mentioned as table vegetables in old works on 
horticulture. We have, however, restricted our list to the plants 
of temperate and cold climates, omitting the vegetables which are 
exclusively tropical, with which we are not sufficiently familiar, 
and which, moreover, would interest only a limited class of readers. 

We made it a point to determine the botanical identity of 
every plant mentioned in this volume by giving the scientific 
name of the species to which it belongs. Before commencing the 
description of any form of cultivated vegetable, we are careful to 
state, with strict exactness, the place in botanical classification 
occupied by the wild type from which that form is considered to 
have sprung. Accordingly, we commence every article devoted 
to one or more cultivated varieties, by giving a botanical name to 
all the subjects included in the article — a name which indicates 
the genus and species to which all these forms, more or less 
modified by cultivation, should be referred. For instance, all the 
varieties of garden Peas, numerous as they are, are referred to 
Pisum sativum^ L. ; those of the Beet-roots to Beta vulgaris^ L. ; 
and similarly in the case of other plants. 

xiii 



xiv 



AUTHORS' PREFACE 



While on this subject, we may be permitted to remark that the 
constancy of a species is very remarkable and well deserves our 
admiration, if we merely take into view the period of time over 
which our investigations can extend with some degree of certainty. 
We see, in fact, species brought into cultivation before history 
began, exposed to all the modifying influences which attend seed- 
sowing incessantly repeated, removal from one country to another, 
the most important changes in the nature of the countries and 
climates through which they pass, and yet these species preserve 
their existence quite distinct. Although continually producing 
new varieties, they never pass the boundaries which separate them 
from the species which come next to them. 

Among the Gourds, for example, which are annual plants that 
have been in cultivation from times so remote that assuredly many 
thousand generations of them have succeeded one another under 
the conditions which are best calculated to bring about important 
modifications of character, we find, if we give ever so little attention 
to the subject, the three species from which all the varieties of 
cultivated edible Gourds have originated ; and neither the influences 
of cultivation and climate, nor the crossings which may occur from 
time to time, have brought forth any permanent type or even a 
variety which does not speedily revert to one of the three primitive 
species. In each of these species the number of varieties is almost 
indefinite, but the limit of these varieties appears to be fixed. Does 
any plant exhibit more numerous or more diversified varieties of 
form than the cultivated Cabbage? Is any difference more marked 
than that which exists between a Round-headed and a Turnip- 
rooted Cabbage, between a Cauliflower and Brussels Sprouts, 
between a Kohl-Rabi and a Tree Cabbage? And yet these vast 
dissimilarities in certain parts of the plants have not affected the 
character of the essential parts of the plants, the organs of fructifi- 
cation, so as to conceal or even to obscure the evident specific 
identity of all these forms. While young, these Cabbages might 
be taken for plants of different species, but when in flower and in 
seed, they all show themselves to be forms of Bi-assica oleracea, L. 

It seems to us that the long-continued cultivation of a very 
considerable number of kitchen- garden plants, while it demonstrates 
the exceedingly great variability of vegetable forms, confirms the 
belief in the permanence of those species that are contemporary 
with Man, and leads us to consider each species as a kind of system 



AUTHORS' PREFACE 



XV 



having a distinct centre (although this may not always be repre- 
sented by a typical form), around which is a field of variation 
almost unlimited in extent, and yet having certain, though still 
undetermined, boundaries. 

The idea of the species, in short, rests upon the fact that all the 
individuals of which it is composed are, to an indefinite extent, 
capable of being fertilised by one another, and only by one another. 
Now, as long as it has not been proved that a variety artificially 
produced by man has ceased to be capable of being fertilised 
when crossed with other individuals of the same species, while 
it continues fertile to an indefinite extent when impregnated 
by individuals of its own special form, — so long it cannot be said 
that a new species has been brought into existence ; and, up to 
the present, no one, so far as we are aware, has ever asserted that 
such a case has occurred. Far from it, indeed, as this capability 
of being fertilised by its own members, and only by them, consti- 
tutes, so to say, the very essence of the species. It is this which 
alike ensures its permanence, its pliability, and its power of adapting 
itself to the various conditions under which it may be compelled to 
exist. 

Reverting, however, to the plan of our work, we have taken care 
not to give any names that are not really in common use and well 
known, and have avoided mere translations. In publishing syno- 
nyms, we have been very cautious, taking especial care not to admit 
any that are not thoroughly well established, and, in most cases, 
verifying them by a comparative cultivation of those plants which 
we considered identical. Having accurately identified each plant 
under consideration by giving its botanical and various common 
names, we mention its native country, adding a brief history of the 
plant, when we possess any reliable data on this subject. After 
mentioning the native country and giving the history of the plant, 
we describe its mode of growth, whether annual, biennial, or 
perennial. Here it should be remarked that many plants are grown 
in the kitchen garden as annuals which are biennial or perennial 
as regards their fructification. For kitchen-garden purposes, it is 
enough that these plants attain in their first year a size sufficiently 
large for table use, and this is especially the case with most plants 
which are grown for their roots, such as Carrots, Beet-roots, Turnips, 
Radishes, etc. 

The descriptions, properly so named, of the different kinds of 



xvi 



AUTHORS' PREFACE 



kitchen-garden plants have been to us a subject of long-continued 
labour and much care. Some persons, perhaps, may consider them 
to be somewhat vague and elastic in their expression, and such a 
remark may apply to many of them ; but, on the other hand, if they 
had been more hard and fast, and had been drawn up in more 
peremptory terms, they would not be so true. Account must be 
taken of the variable appearance of cultivated plants under the 
different ponditions in which they are grown. A season more or 
less favourable, or sowing earlier or later the same season, is sufficient 
to produce a material alteration in the appearance of a plant, and 
a precise description of it as it then presents itself would obviously 
exclude other forms of it which should be included. Nothing is 
easier than to describe a single individual in the most exact terms, 
just as it is the easiest thing in the world to draw precise conclusions 
from a single experiment ; but when a description is to be applicable 
to a great number of individuals of the same variety and the same 
race, the task is more difficult, in the same degree as it is when one 
endeavours to form a conclusion at the close of a series of experi- 
ments which give different and sometimes contrary results. Nearly 
all our descriptions, which in the first instance were drawn up with 
the growing plants before our eyes, have been, from time to time 
and season after season, read over again with new crops of the 
same plants before us. It is the variations which we have noted 
in the size and appearance of the same plants when grown under 
different conditions that have induced us to pen our descriptions 
with a broadness which enables them to include the different aspects 
which the same kind of plant assumes according to the different 
circumstances under which it is grown. 

Whenever we have been able to seize upon any prominent and 
really permanent feature in the characteristics of a variety, whether 
that feature may be found in some important peculiarity or in a fixed 
uniformity in the size or shape of variable organs, we have been 
careful to bring it conspicuously into view, as the surest means of 
recognising the variety in question. Most frequently, in fact, the 
experienced cultivator of kitchen-garden plants recognises different 
varieties from one another by the general appearance of each, the 
peculiar aspect which the plant presents, and which more frequently 
depends on certain proportions in the position and relative size of 
the various organs than on any strictly structural characteristics. 
Such distinctive marks, although they never escape a practised eye, 



AUTHORS' PREFACE xvii 

frequently baffle description and definition. Observation and 
practice alone can teach any one how to see and recognise them 
with certainty ; therefore we are fortunate, whenever a variety is 
distinguished by a constant perceptible feature, to be able to express 
its distinctness by a single word or a short phrase. Characteristic 
features of this kind are found in the presence of spines on the 
leaves of the Prickly Solid Cardoon {Cardon de Tours), in the 
reversed curve of the pods of the Sabre Pea, in the greenish colour 
of the flowers of the Dwarf Blue Imperial Pea {Pois Nam Vert 
Imperial), and similarly in many other cases. 

A part of each description on which we have bestowed mucn 
attention is that which refers to the seed. In addition to noting 
the character of its external appearance, we have been careful to 
state, as precisely as we could, its actual size and relative weight ; 
and lastly, we mention the length of time during which the 
germinating power of the seed of each species continues active. 
It will be easily understood that this could only be expressed in 
figures representing an average. The duration of the germinating 
power really depends very much on whether the circumstances 
under which the seed has been harvested and kept have been more 
or less favourable. The figures given in this work represent the 
average taken from an exceedingly great number of trials most 
carefully carried out. The number of years tabulated is that 
during which the seeds under trial continued to germinate in a 
perfectly satisfactory manner. For our present purpose, we have 
considered seeds deficient in germinating power when they yield 
only half the percentage of plants which they did in the first year 
of trial which was made with seeds of the same year's growth. 
For example, if, in the first year, a certain variety of seeds germi- 
nated to the extent of 90 per cent., we considered the same seeds 
to be deficient in germinating power as soon as they began to yield 
only less than 45 per cent, of plants. Any seeds, of which the 
germinating power continues active for four or five years on an 
average, do not entirely lose it after the lapse of ten years or 
more. It is proper to add that our trials were all made with 
well-saved seeds. Nothing has a greater tendency to destroy 
the germinating power of seeds than the influence of dampness 
and heat. This is what makes carriage through tropical countries 
so often fatal to their good quality. Up to the present, no 
better m.ethcd of keeping seeds has been discovered than that 

b 



xviii 



AUTHORS' PREFACE 



of putting them in linen bags and storing them in a dry, cool, 
well-ventilated place. 

As often as we could, we have supplemented our descriptions 
with figures of the plants described. The size of the page did not 
generally allow of these figures being given in large dimensions, 
but we have endeavoured to exhibit at least their comparative 
sizes by figuring the different varieties of the same vegetable on 
a scale of uniform reduction, so far as this could be done. The 
reduction has been, necessarily, greater in the case of very large 
kinds of vegetables, such as Beet-roots, Cabbages, and Pumpkins, 
than that which applies to the small kinds ; however, we hope that, 
thanks to the talent of the draughtsman, M. E. Godard, even the 
most reduced figures will still give a sufficiently correct idea of 
the plants which they represent. The Strawberries, the Peas in 
pod, and the Potatoes are almost the only subjects which it was 
possible to figure in their natural size. Under the figures we also 
give the scale of reduction in fractions of the actual diameter of 
the plant. For example, when a subject is described as reduced 
to J, that means that the plant, in its natural size, is six times 
taller and six times broader than the figure which the reader has 
before him. We have been careful not to select any subjects for 
our figures except plants that were thoroughly well marked and 
of average size. It may be that, in this respect, and also in our 
estimation of distinctive features, we have sometimes made mis- 
takes. If so, we shall gladly acknowledge our errors and rectify 
them as soon as possible. Our only ambition, in preparing this 
work for the press, is to do so in good faith and without prejudice. 

Our cultural directions are to be regarded as nothing more 
than a help to memory, and we do not in any way put them 
forward as intended to supply the place of the full cultural 
instructions which are given in standard horticultural works or 
in various excellent special treatises which have been published 
in our own and other countries. 

Finally, we conclude the article devoted to each plant with a 
few remarks on the uses to which it is applied, and on the parts 
of the plant which are so used. In many cases, such remarks may 
be looked upon as idle words, and yet it would sometimes have 
been useful to have had them when new plants were cultivated 
by us for the first time. For instance, the Giant Edible Burdock 
of Japan {L.appa edulis) was for a long time served up on our 



AUTHORS' PREFACE 



xix 



tables only as a wretchedly poor Spinach, because people would 
cook the leaves, whereas, in its native country, it is only cultivated 
for its tender fleshy roots. 

There is one mistake against which professional cultivators, 
and also amateurs, especially those who have not had much 
experience, should be on their guard. This is the delusion of 
imagining that they have succeeded in raising a new variety when 
a form that seems to possess some merit makes its appearance 
amongst a number of seedlings. The plants raised from seed 
obtained by crossing should at first be regarded merely as units, 
which may have a certain value in the case of trees or plants that 
are long-lived and are propagated by division, but which, after all, 
are only units. Taken all together, they can only claim to be 
considered a variety when they have continued to reproduce 
themselves, for several generations, with a certain amount of fixity 
of character ; and, almost always, the really difficult and meri- 
torious part of the work is the establishment of the variety — a 
tedious and delicate operation, by which, when successful, the new 
variety is endowed with the constancy and uniformity of character 
without which it is not worth offering to the public. 

Many varieties obtained in this way remain confined to their 
own localities, because they are not more widely known ; some 
cannot reproduce themselves faithfully when sown under conditions 
different from those of their native place, from which fresh seed 
must be obtained, from time to time, if it is desired to keep the 
variety very pure ; hence those local reputations which are one of 
the mainsprings of horticultural commerce. Generally most of the 
cultivated varieties, although they continue sufficiently distinct 
and true when they are grown with care, are all the better for 
being raised from an importation of new seed from the place in 
which experience has shown that it is grown best and truest to 
name. 

Paris, 4 Quai de la Megisserie, 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



ANGELICA 

Angelica Arckattgelica, L. ; Archangelica cfficinalis^ Hoffm. 

UmbellifercE. 

French^ Angelique officinale, A. de Boheme, Arcliangeliqiie. German, Angelica, 
Engelwurz. Flemish, Eng^^lkruid. Dzitch, Engelwortel. Italian, Spanish, and 
Porhiguese, Angelica. 

A NATIVE of the Alps. — Perennial. — This plant has a very thick, 
hollow, herbaceous stem, upwards of 4 ft. high ; leaves very large, 
from I to 3 ft. long, red- 
violet at the base, long- 
stalked, and terminating 
in three principal toothed 
divisions, which are sub- 
divided into three similar 
smaller divisions. Flowers 
small, numerous, pale yel- 
low, in umbels which unite 
to form a roundish head. 
Seed yellow, oblong, flat 
on one side, convex on the 
other, with three prominent 
ribs, and membranous 
edges. The germinating 
power of the seed continues 
for a year, or at most two. 

Culture. —Angelica 
requires a good, rich, 
slightly humid, and deep 
soil. The seed is sown in 
spring or summer in nursery 
beds, and the plants are 
planted out permanently in 
autumn, and will commence 
to yield in the following 
year (provided they are well grown), when the leaves may be 




Angelica. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



cut. In the third year, at the farthest, the plants run to seed ; 
in this year, both stems and leaves are cut, and the plantation is 
destroyed. 

Uses. — The stems and leaf-stalks are eaten preserved with 
sugar. The leaves are also used as a vegetable in some parts 
of Europe. The root, which is spindle-shaped, is employed in 
medicine : it is sometimes called " The Root of the Holy Ghost." 
The seeds enter into the composition of various liqueurs. 



ANISE 



Pimpinella Anisuin^ L. UmbellifercB, 

Frencky Anis. German, Anis. Flemish and Dutch, Anijs. Italian, Aniso, Anacio. 
Spanish, Anis, Matalahuga or Matalahuva. Portugttesc, Anis. 

Native of Asia Minor, Greece, and Egypt. — Annual. — A plant 
from 14 to 16 in, high, with leaves somewhat like those of 

Celery, and finely divided 
stem-leaves, the divisions 
being almost thread-like, 
Hke those of Fennel 
leaves. The seed, which 
is small, oblong, and gray, 
is known for its deli- 
cate flavour and perfume. 
Its germinating power 
lasts for three years. 
Anise is sown, where it is 
to remain, in April. It 
prefers warm and well- 
drained soil. It grows 
very rapidly, and requires 
no care. The seed ripens 
in August. The plant is 
seldom seen in England, 
but we have grown it easily in the London district. 

Uses. — The seeds are frequently used as a condiment, or in the 
manufacture of liqueurs and com.fits. In Italy, they are sometimes 
put into bread. It is of very ancient use in England, and was 
known to the ancients, being indeed among the oldest of medicines 
and spices. It is one of the spices which the Grocers' Com.pany of 
London had the weighing and oversight of from 1453. According 
to the wardrobe accounts of Edward IV., it appears the royal linen 
was perfumed by means of " lytill bagges of fustian stuffed with 
Ireos and anneysP 




Anise. 



ARTICHOKE (FRENCH) 



3 



ARTICHOKE (FRENCH) 

Cynara Scolymus^ L. Composites. 

French, Artichaut. Germany Artischoke. Flemish and Dutch^ Artisjok. Danish^ 
Artiskok. Italian^ Articiocca, Carciofo. Spanish, Alcachofa. Porttiguese, Alcachofra. 

A native of Barbary and South Europe. — Perennial (but culti- 
vated plants will not yield profitably after two or three years). — 
Stem from 3 to 4 ft. high, straight, channelled ; leaves large, about 
3 ft. long, whitish green above, and cottony underneath, decurrent 
on the stem, pinnatifid, with narrow lobes ; terminal flowers very 
large, composed of an assemblage of blue florets, covered with 
membranous overlapping scales, which, in cultivated plants, are 
fleshy at the base. Seed oblong, slightly flattened, somewhat 
angular, gray, streaked or marbled with deep brown. Its 
germinating power continues for six years. 

Culture. — The Artichoke may be propagated from seed, or 
by dividing the stools, or from suckers. The last method is that 
which is most usually employed, as it is the only one by which the 
different varieties can be reproduced true to their proper character. 
Old stools of Artichokes produce underground, around the neck, a 
certain number of suckers or shoots which are intended to replace 
the stems which flowered the year before. These shoots are gene- 
rally too numerous on each stem to allow all to grow equally well, 
and it is the practice, in spring, to uncover, down to below the part 
from which the shoots issue, the old stools, which during the winter 
had been protected with a covering of soil or leaves. The shoots 
are then all detached from the stool, except two or three of the 
finest, which are allowed to remain to contribute to the crop. The 
operation of detaching the shoots is one which requires care and 
a practised hand, for it is important that along with each shoot a 
portion of the mother-plant (which is called the " heel ") should 
also be removed, without too severely wounding the old stool, as 
this might cause it to rot away. The shoots, as soon as they are 
detached, should be trimmed and dressed with a pruning-knife, 
so as to remove from the " heel " any parts that are bruised or torn, 
and to shorten the leaves a little ; the shoots may then be planted 
permanently. The best soil for a plantation of Artichokes is that 
which has been well dug, and is rich, deep, almost humid, and at 
the same time well drained. Low-lying level ground and valley- 
bottoms in which the soil is black and almost turfy are especially 
suitable for the cultivation of the Artichoke. 

The shoots are planted in rows, at a distance from each other 
of from about 2 J ft. to nearly 4 ft. (according to the richness of the 
soil and the variety grown), and with the same distance between 
the rows. They are placed firmly in the ground, but not too deep, 
and then well watered, after which it is only necessary to keep the 
ground clean by frequent use of the hoe, and to water plentifully 



4 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



when watering is necessary. If the plants are sufficiently manured 
and watered, almost all of them will yield in the autumn of the 
same year. Sometimes, instead of planting out the shoots per- 
manently immediately after they are detached, they are first 
planted in nursery-beds, from which they are afterwards removed 
and placed out permanently at the end of June or July. The 
success of the plantation is, in this way, more certain, and the 
yield in autumn is, at least, quite as abundant as that produced 
by following the other mode of planting. 

When Artichokes are raised from seed, it should be sown in 
February or March, in a spent hot-bed, and the plants should be 
planted out permanently in May. Plants raised in this way may 
yield in the autumn of the first year. A sowing on the spot where 
the plants are to remain may also be made at the end of April or in 
May, but the plants thus obtained will not yield until the next year. 

At the commencement of winter. Artichoke plants should be 
protected against frost, which sometimes destroys them in our 
climate. In order to do so, all the stems which have flowered 
should be removed from the stools by cutting them off as close to 
the root as possible. The longest leaves also should be shortened, 
after which soil should be heaped around the stools to the 
height of 8 or lo in. above the neck of the root, care being taken 
not to let any of it get into the heart of the plant. Should 
the frost be very severe, it is advisable to give the stools an 
additional covering of dry leaves or straw ; but it is important 
that this covering should be removed whenever the weather is 
mild, in order to prevent the danger of its rotting the plants. At 
the end of March, or in the beginning of April, when hard frost is 
no longer to be feared, the soil is stirred and manured if necessary, 
the protecting heaps are removed from about the stools, and the 
work of detaching the suckers or shoots is proceeded with as 
described above. It is advisable to partially renew plantations 
of Artichokes every year, and also not to allow any plantation 
to last more than four years. 



Artichokes are grown in every 
British garden, but rarely so well 
as they deserve to be. 

The culture of the Artichoke 
varies somewhat according to situa- 
tion and climate. In the north and 
midlands, it is necessary to cover it 
in winter with litter or leaves, to 
protect it from frost; in the south 
it is sufficient to earth it up, but 
even this precaution is not taken 
everywhere. The plants are in- 



creased by seed and offsets. Varie- 
ties of it, however, do not always 
come true from seed, and they re- 
quire, besides, more time than 
offsets before they produce heads; 
offsets, therefore, are most generally 
adopted. With good culture heads 
may be had for six months in 
succession. Commencing with es- 
tablished plants that have been 
protected through the winter, these 
will afford the first supply in May 



ARTICHOKE (FRENCH) 



5 



and June ; and, for the next two 
months, good heads may be had 
from a planting of strong suckers 
made in March; for the end of 
summer and autumn, from a suc- 
cessional planting made in May. 
Another very good plan is to cut 
back, close to the earth's surface, a 
few old plants early in spring, and 
occasionally afterwards. These will 
produce a thicket of shoots, which 
should be early thinned by pulling 
and cutting the weakest, and allow- 
mg only a portion of the strongest 
suckers to remain. These will pro- 
duce, in succession, nice young 
heads. If the heads be allowed to 
attain their full growth, or nearly so, 
they are not so fine in flavour, and 
have lost most of their tenderness, 
so that only a part of the base of 
each scale and the base of the head 
are fit to eat. The Artichoke will 
grow luxuriantly in rich moist land 
in summer, but it will not stand our 
winter in wet quarters. It will grow 
on any kind of soil, if well manured, 
trenched, and pulverised; but no 
soil suits it better than a good open, 
sandy, rich loam, trenched and well 
manured. The plant is in its per- 
fection at the second and third year 
after planting. 

Years ago it was the custom in 
most gardens at the approach of 
winter to cover the plants entirely, 
or nearly, with litter, and then to 
bank them up with earth, in which 
condition they remained through 
the winter. The Artichoke is, how- 
ever, much hardier than was at that 
time supposed ; and plants not pro- 
tected seldom suffer injury. All 
the protection they require in the 
severest weather is a few dry leaves 
or a handful of Bracken placed over 
the crowns of each plant, to be re- 
moved when the weather changes. 
Plants are often allowed to remain 
too long in one spot, and where this 



occurs the heads all come into use 
at one time. The best remedy for 
this is to make a small plantation 
every year, which will come in after 
the old roots head. 

Artichokes may be often seen 
starved under trees, where neither 
light nor sun can reach them. A 
clear, open piece of good soil, well 
manured and deeply trenched up 
into rough ridges, to get well pulver- 
ised and sweetened by atmospheric 
influences, free from trees and 
hedges, is the proper place to 
plant them — planting the first batch 
in March, and for succession 
another in May, afterwards keeping 
them thoroughly clean and main- 
taining an open free surface by 
often hoeing the ground about 
them. By such means a dozen 
stools will produce as many fine 
rich heads as double the quantity 
will do by the old-fashioned crowd- 
ing, neglectful system. Make choice 
in early spring of good strong 
suckers, take ofl" the stools care- 
fully with a sharp, strong paddle- 
trowel or Asparagus knife, with 
some root or heel of the old stool 
to them, to hold them in the 
ground ; plant them singly 2 ft. 
apart, in rows at least 4 ft. apart, 
or in groups of three in triangles, 
at 4 ft. apart, at least, in the row. 
Protect them as soon as planted, 
against the sun and cutting winds, 
with Seakale pots which are out of 
use, or with evergreen boughs, or 
some other convenient protecting 
material. Those thus early planted 
will produce fine crisp heads the 
same summer and autumn. If in 
cutting heads the stems also be cut 
close to the ground, new suckers 
will soon appear, and if duly thinned 
will produce a late crop ; thus, in 
various ways, by a litde trouble 
and attention a regular supply of 
good Artichokes may be had from 



6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



May to October, which will be 
much more satisfactory than having 
a glut at midsummer and none 
afterwards. 

Copious supplies of manure water 
may be advantageously given to 
Artichokes during dry weather, 
especially , in the case of old stools 
that have^ been in the same soil 
for a length of time. Previous to 
watering, the soil between the rows 
should be slightly pricked over with 
a fork, to allow of the water soak- 
ing in more readily. Whenever 



watering is attempted, let it be 
done thoroughly, and if a good 
mulching of half-rotten manure can 
be afterwards applied between the 
rows, it will keep the roots in a 
moist state for a long time, and the 
effects of the watering will soon be 
seen. When grown on poor or dry 
soils, the effect of covering the soil 
with light manure, lawn mowings, 
or any such material that can be 
spared is excellent. In rich, moist 
soils it is not wanted, except in very 
dry seasons. 



Uses. — The base of the scales of the flower, and also the 
receptacle or bottom of the Artichoke, are eaten either cooked 
or raw. The stems and leaves may also be used, when blanched, 
like those of the Cardoon, to which they are in no way inferior in 
quality. The culture of this good vegetable deserves more atten- 
tion with us ; it should be more used as a vegetable, and the good 
French varieties should be grown more extensively. It is a vege- 
table of the highest value and delicacy when gathered fresh and 
properly cooked, as it may be in various ways. The London 
market often has heaps of Artichokes which have become shrivelled 
and "heated" on their long journey from the south of Frarice, while 
our own valley soils are excellent for the plant. 



VARIETIES 




Paris Artichoke. 



Large Paris Arti- 
choke. — A vigorous, com- 
paratively hardy plant, of 
medium height ; leaves 
silvery gray, the ribs red- 
dish, especially at the base, 
and without spines; stems 
stiff, erect, usually with 
two or three branchings. 
Heads large, broader than 
long, particularly remark- 
able for the breadth of 
the receptacle or bottom 
of the Artichoke. Scales 
very fleshy at the base, at 
first very closely pressed 
together, then broken, and 
in the two upper rows 
slightly bent backwards. 



ARTICHOKE (FRENCH) 



7 



They are pale green throughout, except at the base, where they are 
sHghtly tinged with violet ; they have few or no spines. The 
height of the stems does not exceed from 2j to 3 ft, and a plant 
two years old will have three or four stems. This variety is the one 
which is most extensively cultivated in the neighbourhood of Paris. 
It is not a very early variety, but it is the best for yielding heads 
every year of its cultivation. No other variety has such a broad, 
thick, and fleshy receptacle or bottom ; it also reproduces itself 
fairly well from seed. 

Green Provence Artichoke. — A plant of medium height, with 
rather deep green leaves ; heads green, somewhat more elongated 
than those of the preceding variety, but not so thick ; scales of a 
uniform green, long, rather narrow and spiny, moderately fleshy at 
the base. This variety, which is extensively grown in the south of 
France, is usually eaten raw with pepper sauce. The seeds of this 
variety, when sown, always produce a large proportion of spiny 
plants. 

Flat-headed Brittany Artichoke. — A tall and vigorous plant, 
3 J to 4 J ft. high ; leaves 
luxuriant ; heads large, 
broad, and short, nearly 
globular in shape, flat- 
tened on the top ; 
scales green, brown, or 
slightly tinged with 
violet on the edges, 
short and broad, rather 
fleshy at the base. 
This variety is very 
extensively cultivated 
in Anjou and Brittany, 
from which provinces 
large quantities are 
sent in May to the 
Central Market in 
Paris. 

As the number of 
varieties of the Arti- 
choke is very great, 
we shall limit ourselves 
to mentioning only 
those which we con- 
sider the most worthy 
of notice next to the 
ones which we have 
cultivated. 




Flat-headed Brittany Artichoke. 

just described as being most generally 



8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Copper-coloured Artichoke of Brittany.— A rather low- 
growing plant ; heads round, large, violet at first, but red-copper 
colour as they advance in growth ; scales pointed. 

Perpetual Artichoke. — A medium-sized plant not exceeding 

27 or 28 in. in height, 
with silvery gray leaves 
and red stems, deepening 
in colour at the base. 
The young heads are 
tinged with purple, which 
turns into purple-gray as 
their size increases. The 
scales are indented, spine- 
less, and very fleshy. It 
is much grown on the 
French Riviera for the 
sake of the numerous 
small heads it produces 
as early as January, which 
are usually eaten raw 
with oil and vinegar, as 
a delicate hors-d'ceuvre 
for which there is always 
a great demand. For 
this reason the plants are 
abundantly watered from 
the middle of August 
onward. When fully 
grown the heads may be 
cooked and eaten in the 
usual way. 

Early Purple Globe 
Artichoke, — A rather 
dwarf plant, not more 
than 28 in. in height ; 
leaves grayish green, large 
but much laciniated ; the heads are round, green when young, 
tinged with dark purple when full grown ; scales long, pointed, 
lightly spiny. Although this variety came first from, the south of 
France, it does well all over France, owing to its earliness. Like 
the preceding, it is best for use when young. It has superseded 
the Purple Provence Ai^ticJioke^ and, like it, is apt to take cold, 
and should not be uncovered tpo early in the spring. 

Gray Artichoke. — A variety with elongated, rather thin and 
loose heads, widening out at the top. It is specially cultivated in 
the neighbourhood of Perpignan, is a very early kind, and flowers 




Perpetual Artichoke. 



ARTICHOKE (FRENCH) 



9 



almost continuously. It is sent in large quantities to the Central 
Market in Paris during the winter and in the beginning of 
spring. 

Black English Artichoke.— A very distinct kind, with nume- 
rous heads of medium size, nearly round and quite flat-topped, of a 
handsome dark violet colour. 

Roscoff Artichoke. — A very tall plant ; heads egg-shaped, of 
a rather pale green colour ; scales spiny. 

Oblong St. Laud Artichoke. — Heads large, elongated ; scales 
loosely overlapping each other at the base, and much more 
closely set at the top, scarcely emarginate, with a small spine at 
the point. 

Sweet Artichoke of Genoa.— A rather tender plant ; heads 
pale green, elongated, spiny. The flesh of the receptacle is yellow, 
sweet, and very delicate in flavour. 

Purple Provence Artichoke.— A rather low-growing plant, 
with swollen short and blunt heads, of rather deep violet 
when young and becoming green as they mature. A very 
productive variety, but only in spring, and somewhat impatient 
of cold. 

Violet Quarantain Artichoke of Camargue. — Plant of medium 
height ; heads rather small ; scales round, erect, of a violet-tinged 
green colour. An early variety. 

Violet St. Laud Artichoke.— Heads of medium size; scales 
green on the exposed parts, but violet on the parts covered by 
other scales, and also on 
the tips. 

Florence Artichoke. — 
Heads very numerous, 
elongated, pointed, of an 
intense violet colour. This 
variety is very much grown 
in the neighbourhood of 
Florence. The heads, 
gathered when young and 
tender, are generally boiled 
and eaten entire. 

Purple Venice Arti- 
choke. — Heads of medium 
size, long, conical, dark 
purple, especially when 
young ; scales fleshy and 

delicate in flavour ; tinged with salmon-yellow on the .part not 
exposed to the light. Hardy, but not very productive. 




Purple Venice Artichoke. 



10 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE* 

Helianthus tubej'osus, L. Compositce. 

French, Topinambour. German, Erdapfel, Fiejiiisk, Aardpeer. Danish, Jordskokken. 
Italian, Girasole del Canada, Tartufoli. Spanish, Namara, Po7'tuguese, Topinambor. 

Native of North America. — Perennial. — A tall plant, with annual 

stems, but producing, year 
after year, underground 
shoots which are swollen 
into genuine tubers. It 
was introduced into Europe 
some centuries ago, and is 
very generally cultivated on 
a large scale. The stem is 
erect and very stout, some- 
times over 6\ ft. high, often 
branching in the lower part, 
and bearing oval-acuminate 
leaves, which are long 
stalked and very rough to 
the touch ; flower - heads 
comparatively small, seldom 
opening in the north of 
France before October ; 
florets yellow; tubers violet- 
red, slender at the bottom, 
and swollen in the upper part, where they are about 2 in. in diameter, 
marked with hollows and scale-like 
enlargements. They form very late, 
and should not be dug until the stems 
have nearly ceased growing. The 
flesh is sweet and rather watery. 

Culture. — The tubers are planted 
in the open ground, in March or April, 
in rows 2\ to 3 ft. or more apart, and 
with a distance of 12 to 14 in. between 
the tubers. The plants require no 
attention beyond the occasional use 
of the hoe, and the tubers are dug as 
they are wanted. They are not affected 
by frost as long as they are left in the 
ground, but are very liable to be in- 
jured if exposed to it after they are 
taken up. In warm countries the 
plant produces seed, from which it can 
be propagated. Experiments made 
with the view of raising improved 

* See also p. 758. 



Jerusalem Artichoke (-^ natural size). 




Improved Yellow Jerusalem 
Artichoke. 



JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE 



II 



varieties from seed have not hitherto been attended with very- 
satisfactory results. From one of these experiments we obtained 
a variety with yellow tubers which have a finer and more agreeable 
flavour than the common kind, but the plant is far less productive. 
This variety may answer as a kitchen- 
garden plant, but is not suitable for 
extensive or field culture. 

As this vegetable may be grown in almost 
any place, it is generally planted on gravelly 
pieces of ground that would be too dry for 
other crops. Knolls or mounds are usually 
cropped with it, and it is also grown along 
the sides of hedges and in shady places. A 
few growers, however, grow it on good soil 
in open and somewhat exposed positions, and 
the result is an abundant crop of fine tubers. 
After preparing the ground by manuring and 
digging or trenching it, the tubers are planted 
in February, in rows like Potatoes, and are 
allowed to grow unchecked, and without being 
earthed up, till November. It has not become 
very popular perhaps owing to its resemblance 
to the Potato, to which it is, no doubt, inferior, 
if looked at only from the Potato standard. 
But it never should be so regarded, being 
very distinct from any Potato, and having 
distinct uses in cookery. It is excellent as 
baked by French and Italian cooks, the 
flavour being richer and better this way. 

Jerusalem Potato Artichoke. — A 

remarkable variety, the result of a series 

of sowings made at Verrieres with Jerusalem Potato Artichoke. 

seeds gathered in Corsica by Dr. Joseph 

Michaud. It is distinguishable from the comxmon variety by the 
greater size of its tubers, which are also rounder, less angular and 
knobby ; they are yellow in colour. In quality it is equal to the 
old sort and somewhat superior to it in yield. 

ASPARAGUS 

Asparagus officmalis^ L. Liliacece, 

French, Asperge. German, Spargel. Flemish and Dutch, Aspersie. Danish, Asparges. 
Italian, Sparagio. Spanish, Esparrago. Forttigtiese, Espargo. 

Native of Europe.^ — Perennial. — A plant with numerous simple 
swollen roots, disposed in the form of a claw, from which spring 
several stems over 4 ft. in length, straight, branching, very smooth, 
slightly glaucous, with very minute cylindrical fascicled leaves. 




12 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Flowers pendent, small, greenish yellow, succeeded by spherical 
berries about the size of a pea, which in autumn assume a very 
vivid vermixion colour. Seeds black, triangular, large, preserving 
their germinating power for five years at least. 

Culture. — Asparagus, which is one of our earliest spring 
vegetables, is also one of the most widely appreciated and exten- 
sively cultivated. In many districts, and notably in the neighbour- 
hood of Paris, the cultivation of Asparagus for market is a branch 
of industry of the highest importance ; and although there are, 
undoubtedly, some soils and localities in which its cultivation is 
attended with special success, there is hardly any place in which 
a plantation of this vegetable may not be made, if only some pains 
are taken in establishing it and keeping it in order. A light and 
well-drained soil is the best for this purpose, but a plantation may 
be successfully made in any soil which is not either absolutely wet 
or impermeably stiff ; stagnant moisture being, above all other 
things, fatal to this plant. 

In order to establish a plantation, the cultivator may either 
raise his own plants or purchase them ready for use. In the first 
case, the seed should be sown in March or April, in good, rich, 
mellow soil (in drills preferably), and lightly covered with soil, 
leaf-mould, or compost (a covering from J to | in. deep will be 
quite sufficient). After the seed is well up and the plants have 
begun to gain some strength, they should be thinned out, if neces- 
sary, so as to leave a space of about 2 in. from plant to plant in 
the drills. It is very important for the ulterior favourable develop- 
ment of the plants, and for the satisfactory appearance of the crop, 
that they should never suffer from the want of nourishment caused 
either by an insufficiency of manure or by the plants being placed 
too closely together. During the rest of the summer and autumn, 
water should be given copiously whenever there appears to be need 
of it, and the ground must be kept very clean by the use of the hoe, 
which should be carefully handled, so as not to injure the roots of 
the plants. Plants treated in this way will be ready to be planted 
out permanently the following spring ; they will strike root sooner, 
and give better results than plants of two years' growth, while the* 
crop which they yield will come in quite as soon. 

Those who do not wish to take the trouble of raising plants 
themselves in this way can easily procure them from seedsmen. 
Young Asparagus shoots may be kept for several days, and even 
weeks, out of the ground, without any detriment either to their 
striking root or to the appearance of the crop which they will yield. 
The raising of these plants for sale has become an important 
industry. 

It has been already stated that, in order to establish a plantation 
of Asparagus, a light and well-drained soil should, if possible, be 



ASPARAGUS 



13 



selected ; but if the cultivator has no other soil except one that is 
very stiff and damp, he should, by a thorough drainage, render it 
wholesome to the depth of at least 12 or 16 in., and direct all 
his efforts to the improvement of the surface. The experience 
of the Asparagus growers at Argenteuil and other localities near 
Paris, who have brought the culture of this plant to a degree of 
perfection unknown before, seems to prove that the best results 
are obtained by liberally manuring the upper portion only of the 
soil in which the plants are growing, as the roots have naturally 
nc tendency to descend deeper, if they find sufficient nourishment 
near the surface. It is obvious that, in establishing a plantation of 
Asparagus, account must 

be taken of the nature ^ ft >^ 



which they require. 
The stools, then, should be planted at no great depths and no 
great quantity of soil should be heaped over^'them, except at the 
time when the young shoots are growing, when it is absolutely 
necessary to do so, in order to obtain these of sufficient length. 
As to the disposition of the young plants, there is no fixed rule. 
They may be placed either in single rows, or in beds containing 
two or three rows each ; but it is advisable, in all cases, to have a 
distance of at least 2 or 2 J ft. from plant to plant in all directions. 
This will be found advantageous from a double point of view, as 
ensuring a crop of greater abundance and better quality. 

Planting in beds being the most usual way, we shall briefly 
describe how it is done, first observing that the methods of 
establishing and cultivating the plants are almost exactly the 
same as those pursued with plants grown in single rows. In 
March or April, or even later, the ground for the plantation is 
carefully laid out, having been previously well dug and plentifully 
manured before winter. The surface of the beds is then slightly 



of the soil in which it is 
to be made, and which, 
consequently, must be 
dug more or less deeply; 
but it may be said 
generally that the chief 
point on which success 
mainly depends, is not 
to put the stools out of 
reach of the influence of 
heat, while, at the same 
time, placing them in a 
medium in which they 
will find an abundance 
of the nourishment 




Asparagus (after 7 years' planting). 



14 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

hollowed out to the depth of about 4 in., the soil being trans- 
ferred to the alleys. Well-rotted farmyard manure, or some other 
active fertiliser, is then spread over the surface of the bed. In the 
vicinity of Paris, well-rotted manure or street-sweepings are much 
used for this purpose. The positions for the stools are then marked 
out, in two or three rows according to the width of the beds, at the 
distances mentioned above. At each of these positions is deposited 
a small heap of well-manured soil or leaf-mould, about 2 in. high^ 
on the top of which the young stool is placed, care being taken to 
spread out the roots all around and to press them gently into the 
soil. When all the stools are in position, they are covered with 
leaf-mould or soil mixed with rotten manure, and a sufficient 
quantity of soil is spread over all to restore the bed almost to 
its former level. In this way the crowns of the stools will not be 
buried deeper than about 2 in., and the ends of the roots not deeper 
than 4 in. A good deal of soil which was replaced by the manure 
will remain in the alleys and between the rows, and this will be 
found useful afterwards for earthing-up the plants. 

During the first year, the plantation requires no attention 
beyond the frequent use of the hoe and occasional waterings. 
At the commencement of winter, the stems are cut down to 
8 or 10 in. from the ground, the portions so left serving to indicate 
the position of each stool. (It is a good plan also, at the time of 
planting, to stick a small rod into the ground beside each stool to 
mark its position, as the manure can then be placed exactly over 
the roots, and there will be little danger of injuring them in the 
course of hoeing or in any other way.) A portion of the soil which 
covers the stool is then cautiously removed, leaving only enough 
to cover the stool to the depth of between i and 2 in., and then 
the manure is applied. This is of various kinds. Those which, 
from experience, are considered the best, are well-rotted farmyard 
manure, street-sweepings to which a little sea-salt is sometimes 
added, and calcareous composts — plaster, marl, lime rubbish,, 
quarry-dust, etc. — if the soil is deficient in such ingredients. The 
manure is allowed to remain on the surface all through the winter, 
and at the end of March is dug into and well mixed with the soiL 
The surface is then neatly levelled down, and the plantation, during 
the remainder of the second year, is treated exactly in the same 
way as in the previous year. When the stools are uncovered in. 
the autumn, care should be taken to cut away, close to the root, the 
withered remnants of the stems which were previously shortened 
in October. A fresh covering of manure is then applied, which, as 
before, is left to lie on the surface all through the winter and dug 
in at the commencement of spring. 

In the third year the plants are, for the first time, earthed up» 
This operation consists in heaping up over each stool some of the 



ASPARAGUS 



15 



soil taken from the alleys, so as to form a little hillock about a foot 
higher than the bed. If the plantation has been carefully attended 
to up to this time, some shoots may now be gathered for use, but 
not more than two or three from each stool : however, if it is 
desirable that the plantation should last for a considerable time, 
it is better to abstain from gathering any now, and to wait till 
the fourth year for the first gathering. In any case, it is very 
important to gather the shoots by breaking them off close to 
the neck of the stool, and not to cut them in the soil, as is often 
wrongly done, to the detriment, among other things, of the as yet 
undeveloped shoots. The best plan is to uncover the shoot to be 
gathered, by removing the soil of the hillock, and then neatly break 
off the shoot with the fingers or a special implement, replacing 
the soil of the hillock at once in its former position. This is the 
invariable practice of careful cultivators in the neighbourhood of 
Paris. If, from any cause, portions of shoots are found attached 
to the stool in autumn, they should be altogether removed before 
winter sets in. In the open air, in the climate of Paris, Asparagus 
is gathered in the beginning of April, but it is well not to continue 
gathering after June 15th, if an abundant and early crop is ex- 
pected the following year. About London it is ten to fourteen 
days later, and lasts so much longer. 

In the fourth year, the treatment of a plantation of Asparagus 
is precisely the same as in the previous years, consisting simply 
of the necessary hoeing, watering, and manuring. It is not 
absolutely necessary to apply manure every year ; nevertheless, 
as the Asparagus is a very greedy plant in the matter of manure, 
the crop will always be in proportion to the quantity of nourish- 
ment it receives in this way. A plantation properly made and 
carefully attended to will continue productive for ten years or more. 

As by the common English way grow, if strong growth and strong 

of growing Asparagus it is impos- shoots are desired. Long experi- 

sible to get a good result, we give ence has taught cultivators that a 

here what are the smaller space than 4 ft. apart will 

^ not suffice to give the very best 

Essential Points in the Produc- result. At first sight people in 

TiON OF Good Asparagus. this country might suppose that 

Although the details of the system this means a waste of ground, but 

of growing good Asparagus require it really is not so. At first, when 

some little space to describe on the plantation is young, waste of 

paper, the essential differences be- ground is avoided by taking a light 

tween that and the system com- crop off between the lines — say, 

monly employed in England are so one of Kidney Beans or of early 

very clear that they may be shortly Potatoes ; but after a good year's 

stated. Each plant is treated as growth, and when the Asparagus 

an individual— as a vigorous subject gets strong, its roots really occupy 

requiring much space in which to the whole space, and the result is 



16 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



so much more satisfactory than in 
the common way that the ground 
affords a better and more satisfac- 
tory return. There are two prin- 
cipal ways of growing this crop 
near Paris — one, devoting a certain 
portion of ground to it, as usual 
with us ; the other, putting single 
plants between Vines or small fruits, 
or placing a plant wherever there 
is room for one. This last way is 
important, because it may be car- 
ried out in small gardens every- 
where, and by its means we should 
become more readily convinced of 
the value of giving plenty of room 
to the roots. Single plants here 
and there in the open spaces, or in 
" blanks " between bushes, fruits, 
or dwarf pyramidal Apple or Pear 
trees, or single lines, wherever room 
can be found for them, would, from 
the superior result, soon convince 
all of the value of the system. 

Planting. — Healthy yearling 
plants are always chosen, and they 
are planted about the time, or a 
little before the time, when growth 
commences in spring. They are in- 
variably planted in a shallow trench 
somewhat like a Celery trench — not 
quite so deep and not manured as 
that is, supposing that the ground 
is in fair condition. In a trench 
about 8 in. deep the plants are 
placed on little low hillocks, and 
they, are carefully attended to for 
the first year. The plants, be it 
noted, are 4 ft. apart in the line, 
and 4 ft. apart in the trench. It 
will be noticed that the second 
essential difference between the 
common way — that in use with us 
— and the way it is now desired to 
make known is, that in garden soil 
■of fair quality no manure is used 
at the time of planting. There are 
soils in which drainage and pre- 
paration might be required ; but 
assuming that the soil is as good 



as garden soil generally is, no pre- 
paration whatever is given beyond 
the opening of the trench and the 
planting of each root in a little fine 
surface soil ; the great preliminary 
expense which has been supposed 
to be necessary in the culture of 
this plant is avoided. It is when 
the plants begin to get strong and 
well estabhshed that a litde manure 
is applied. There is thus a great 
economy in two things — in plants 
and in manure, which under the 
usual system with us is used to the 
most wasteful extent ; so much so, 
indeed, as to seriously limit produc- 
tion by causing alarm as to expense. 

Home Culture. — Our markets 
are full of Asparagus in spring, 
grown in other countries, sometimes 
hundreds of miles from London. It 
is a vegetable which, perhaps more 
than any other, loses quality every 
day after it is cut. This is one 
reason why it should be grown in 
our own country. The soil and the 
climate of England, in almost every 
county, are admirably suited for the 
production of Asparagus. Never- 
theless, not only do we not supply 
our own markets, but many pos- 
sessing large gardens cannot get 
a really good sample. All this 
is wholly unnecessary, for every 
farmer's garden and every cottage 
garden might grow it well. In large 
places, where a few beds formed on 
a costly and wrong principle now 
furnish a very limited supply of 
very poor Asparagus, there ought to 
be an abundance of the best quality. 
Our markets ought to be supplied 
by our own people, the early sup- 
plies coming from the southern and 
the late ones from the northern 
counties. 

Blanching. — The question of 
blanching it is more or less apart 
from the question of cultivation, 
and people may adopt the only true 



I 



ASPARAGUS 



17 



j system of culture without blanch- 
; ing, if such be their taste. But a 
I closer acquaintance with the subject 
i will probably teach many that there 
is something in this despised sys- 
' tern of blanching, which so many 
persons, lamentably ignorant on the 
subject beyond experiences of their 
own overcrowded and ill-grown 
beds, declare to be an absurd prac- 
tice. All good judges and good 
growers know that it is necessary 
in the highest culture, and to secure 
the most delicate flavour, and also 
to prevent the rising shoots break- 
ing in warm weather into scales or 
leaves before they are fairly deve- 
loped. The best foreign Asparagus 
is blanched by piling little mounds of 
friable earth over the stools in spring. 

Forcing. — Obtaining early sup- 
plies of Asparagus should be the 
aim of all who have gardens of 
any extent and with the usual 
appliances for forcing and heating. 
A peculiarity of this, the most deli- 
cate and most esteemed of all vege- 
tables, is that it never retains its true 
and delicate flavour when "canned" 
or preserved. We have tried many 
samples, both from France and 
America, and never found one that 
did not taste unpleasantly of the 
tin. The true way is to prolong the 
season of the fresh Asparagus as 
long as we conveniently can. 

Forcing may be commenced in 
November and continued till Aspa- 
ragus is fit to gather in the open 
air. One of the best ways is to 
make a slight hot-bed with stable 
manure, leaves, and tan (these last 
materials, if easily obtained, will do 
well to mix with the manure), in a 
Melon pit, or under a common Cu- 
cimbsr frame about 2^ft. high ; and 
on the surface of the bed should 
be placed a few inches of light soil, 
leaf-mould, or sifted potting refuse, 
on which to place the plants, because 



such material does not act so effectu- 
ally in repressing the heat as ordi- 
nary garden soil. When the roots 
are taken up as completely and care- 
fully as possible, and placed thickly 
on this, they should be covered witli 
a few more inches of the same mate- 
rial. If the Asparagus be required 
of its natural colour, give the frame 
full light and air when fine. Water 
occasionally with tepid water. After 
one good watering in the early stage, 
a little will afterwards suffice, for 
the winter crops at all events, as the 
slow evaporation of the period and 
the moisture of the bed will pre- 
serve the soil in a sufficiently moist 
state. The heat of the bed must be 
preserved when it gets low by a 
lining, in the usual old-fashioned 
way, and by covering closely with 
mats or litter at night in cold 
weather — that is, if it be a common 
frame, but if in a brick pit this will 
not be necessary. The chief point 
is to be patient at first, to let it get 
a slow start, and not to be over- 
excited at any time, or it will start 
away and produce nothing but very 
weak, spindly shoots : whereas, by 
bringing it on gradually and regularly, 
a good cutting may be obtained. 

An important way is by bringing 
the heat to the roots, and certainly 
by this plan a more permanent and 
stable kind of " grass " is obtained, 
because plant or root is not in the 
least disturbed. It is an expensive 
way, though simple. The beds are, 
in the first place, very well made of 
rich, deep soil, and the alleys of 
these beds are dug out to a depth 
of 3 ft. or so, and then bricked ; or. 
in other words, the Asparagus beds 
are made between low brick walls, 
perforated with "pigeon-holes," to 
admit of the heat entering freely ; 
and whenever forcing commences, 
the bricked trench on each side of a 
bed is filled with fermenting manure, 



i8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



covered over by a rough shutter, 
and the beds themselves with small 
wooden frames made to fit ; these 
are, of course, only placed on during 
forcing, the beds being exposed in 
the summer season. Thebeds should 
not be more than 4 or 5 ft. wide, to 
admit of the ready percolation of 
heat. This method is, however, 
only suited for places where a good 
deal of expense is devoted to the 
garden. The modification or im- 
provement of it, which consists in 
having hot-water pipes passing be- 
twa:;n each bed and the chamber 
covered with a slab of stone, is even 
a more expensive one. No matter 
what system is employed, a steady 
heat of from 60° to 65° will be found 
most suitable. 

In the royal gardens at Frogmore 
the beds are about 75 ft. long and 
7 ft. wide, their sides being built 
with brick, "pigeon-hole" style. 
The spaces between the beds are 
4 ft deep, the lower 2 ft. being 
filled with rich soil; and in the 
upper 2 ft. are flow and return hot- 
water pipes connected with a boiler 
that heats six such ranges. On the 
tops of the beds are frames. In 



special severe weather the sashes 
must be covered with mats or litter. 

The French mode of forcing As- 
paragus usually consists in digging 
deep trenches between beds planted 
for the purpose, covering the beds 
with the soil and with frames, filling 
in the trenches between the beds 
with stable manure, and protecting 
the frames with straw mats and litter 
to keep in the heat. A speciality 
is made of forcing the smaller-sized 
Asparagus in iron houses There 
are frames within these houses, just 
as in many propagating houses in 
England, and beneath them the 
Asparagus is forced for the markets^ 
and in large quantities. The houses 
are heated by hot water, and the 
culture in other respects resembles 
that w^hich is practised in forcing 
gardens in England — that is, when 
the plants are taken up to be forced 
indoors or in pits. The disturbance 
weakens the roots a good deal, and 
the large table Asparagus is never 
forced by this method. It is pro- 
duced specially in a small state for 
soups, etc., but it is impossible to 
obtain the large table Asparagus in 
this way. 



Uses. — The young shoots, blanched by being earthed up, and 
gathered as soon as the points appear overground, are used boiled 
as a vegetable. In Italy and some other countries, they allow 
them to grow 4 or 6 in. overground, and to become quite green 
before they gather them. In France, blanched Asparagus with a 
reddish or purple coloured head is generally preferred. 

In Holland and Belgium, the shoots are completely blanched. 
Notwithstanding this, the Belgian and Dutch Asparagus has a 
delicate and excellent flavour. English people who only know 
foreign Asparagus as specimens a week or more old, gathered in 
Spain or France, make a great mistake in supposing that blanching 
destroys flavour. Fresh and properly cooked Asparagus is always 
delicate and good in flavour, whether blanched or not ; but growers, 
cooks, market men, and others who have much experience know 
that the blanched is the best, and laugh at the dictum of those who 
say that " only an inch of the blanched grass is fit to eat." Many 
who discuss the question do not even know how the large Asparagus 



ASPARAGUS 



19 



IS cooked, and have never tasted well-grown Asparagus freshly 
gathered and properly cooked. Another error is to suppose that 
only foreign produce is blanched, and our own green. The practice 
of the market gardeners of London has for many years been to 
blanch the shoots for most of their length. What they send to the 
London market is excellent in flavour, and has the advantage over 
the French of freshness. It may be useful to state here that French 
cooks boil the very fine Asparagus in bundles standing on end 
in the water, leaving an inch or so of the points above the water. 
This enables them to thoroughly cook the stem, without destroying 
the tops. These, if not enough cooked by the steam, are readily 
finished by laying the bundle on its side for a few minutes. — R. 



VARIETIES OF ASPARAGUS 
are pretty numerous, or perhaps it would be better to say that 
every district in which its culture is successfully carried on has 
given its name to a kind more or less distinct. It is owing to 
this circumstance that we have such names as Asperge de Gand, 
A. de Marchiennes, A. de Vendome, A. de Besancon, etc. We 
shall describe only those kinds which appear to possess some really 
distinctive characteristics. 

Common Green Asparagus. — 
This variety appears to come nearest 
to the wild Asparagus ; the shoots 
are more slender, more pointed, and 
turn green sooner than those of any 
other cultivated kind. 

Giant Dutch Purple Asparagus. 
— The shoots of this variety are thicker 
and more rounded at the end than 
those of the preceding kind. They 
are only tinged at the points with rose- 
colour or violet-red as long as they 
are not exposed to the action of light. 

White German Asparagus. — 
Closely resembling the preceding 
variety, this is generally considered 
to be a little earlier and is somewhat 
more deeply coloured, but the differ- 



ence is so trifling that the two 




Giant Dutch Asparagus natural 
size). 



varieties may be safely pronounced 
identical. 

Early Giant Argenteuil Asparagus. — This very handsome 
variety, obtained by selection from seedlings of the Giant Dutch 
Purple Asparagus, forms the greater part of those fine bundles of 
Asparagus which are so much admired in the Paris markets in 



20 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



spring. The shoots are very notably thicker than those of the 
parent plant, the head is slightly pointed, and the scales with 
which it is covered are very closely set, overlapping each other. 
It is a little earlier than the parent variety. 

Late Giant Argenteuil Asparagus. — This variety is not 
inferior in appearance to the Early one, but it does not commence 
to yield quite so soon. It is called Late, not so much on account 
of this difference as because it continues to produce fine large 
shoots when those of the Early kind have become much thinner 
than they were at the beginning of the season, and shoots of the 
Late kind are used to set off the bundles. Experienced cultivators 
are able to distinguish this variety from the preceding one by the 
appearance of the point of the shoot, which in this kind has the 
scales parted from each other like those of the Artichoke, instead 
of being, as it were, glued down upon each other. 

The Germans have a great number of varieties of Asparagus, 
under the names of Great Giant, Large Erfurt, Early Darmstadt, 
Large Darmstadt, Large Early White, etc. All of these appear to 
us to come very close to the Giant Dutch Purple and the White 
German Asparagus, both of which, as we have seen, are much 
about the same thing. 

In England and America the variety named Conover's Colossal 
is very much extolled. From what we know of it, we do not think 
it superior to the Argenteuil varieties. [The difference in kinds is 
very often the result merely of difference in cultivation. There is a 
difference between the Early Argenteuil and the Late Argenteuil, and 




the Early variety should 
be encouraged by English 
growers, who should try to 
supply their own markets 
as early as possible. — R.] 



BALM 



Melissa officinalis, L. 



LabiatcE. 



French, Melisse citronelle, Melisse 
officinale. German, Citronen- 
Melisse. Dtitch, Citroen-Melisse. 
Dajiish, Hjertensfryd. Italian, 
Melissa. Spanish, Toronjil, 
Citronella. 



Balm (plant, '> branch, \ natural size). 



Native of South Europe. 
— Perennial. — A plant 
growing about I J ft. high, 
with numerous erect and 
spreading branches and 
leaves of pure green ; 



i 



BALM 



21 



I flowers few, in small clusters ; calyx covered with fine soft hairs; 
seeds brown. Their germinating power lasts for four years. The 
leaves and all the green parts of the plant exhale a very agreeable 
and penetrating aromatic odour, especially when bruised. This 
plant is of very easy culture in England. It is increased by 
dividing the clumps in autumn, winter, or spring. Like most of 
the herbs that come from South Europe, it enjoys warm positions, 
but grows anywhere. 

Uses. — The leaves are much used for seasoning, and especially 

I in the manufacture of liqueurs and scents. 

I BASIL 

I Ocymum BasilicuiHy L. Labiatce. 

French, Basilic grand, Herbe royale. German, Basilikum. Flemish, Basilik. Danish, 
I Basilikum. Jtalian, Basilico. Spanish, Albaca, Albahaca. Porhiguese, Manjericao. 

A native of India. — Annual. — Stem about i ft. high, very 
branching ; leaves green ; flowers white, in whorled leafy clusters 
seeds small, black, covered with a mucila- 
ginous substance, which swells in water 
like Flax-seed. Their germinating power 
lasts for eight years. 

Culture. — As this plant is a native 
of warm countries, the best way is to sow 
the seed in a hot-bed in March or April. 
The seedlings are planted out in May, in 
the open air, on a warm border. All kinds 
of Basil are easily grown in pots. In 
England, Sweet Basil seeds should be 
sown about the middle of April, in a 
genial temperature, and when the seed- 
lings are large enough to handle, they 
may be potted off singly, or they may be Basil (|- natural size), 
pricked into boxes or seed-pans, or into 

a frame on a slight bottom heat, from which they should be trans- 
ferred to their positions in the open air about the beginning of 
June. Owing to the plant being very tender, this can seldom be 
done with safety at an earlier period. Sweet Basil succeeds best 
in a light, rich soil, in which the plants should grow at a distance 
of 6 or 8 in. apart, and should be well watered until they become 
established. As soon as they come into bloom they should be cut 
down to within a few inches of the ground, and the portion cut off 
should be tied up in small bunches and dried in the shade for winter 
use. As, however, green Basil is frequently required, the plants 
which have been cut down should have the soil surrounding them 
slightly stirred up, and the bed given a surface-dressing of fresh 




22 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



soil, when the plants will quickly form themselves into healthy little 
bushes, which will furnish a supply of green leaves until about the 
beginning of October. A portion of them should then be lifted and 
potted, or planted in boxes, and should be placed in a somewhat 
genial temperature, where they will continue to furnish a supply of 
green leaves when required throughout the winter. 

Uses. — The leaves are very aromatic and are used for seasoning. 
Formerly, and even still in some countries, Basil was considered to 
possess very active medicinal properties. Its agreeable perfume 
and flavour recommend it as a kitchen-garden plant. 

Large Green Sweet Basil. — This appears to be the type of 
the species. A low-growing plant, forming compact dense tufts 
about 10 in. or i ft. high, and about as much across. Leaves 
shining green, i to i J in. long ; flowers white, in long clusters. 

Large Purple Sweet Basil. — A plant of the same height and 
habit as the preceding, from which it differs in having the leaves 
and stems of a dark purplish-brown colour, and the flowers lilac. 

Lettuce-leaved Basil. — A variety with broad, crimped, un- 
dulating leaves, from 2 to 4 in. long, and of a low-growing thick-set 



Bush, or Dwarf, Basil {Ocymum minimum). — A much dwarfer, 
more compact, and more branching plant than the Common Basil ; 
the leaves also are smaller. Flowers white ; seeds like those of the 
Common Basil. Culture and uses the same. 

Green Bush Basil.— This plant, which is of a pleasing green 
colour, is particularly suitable for growing in pots, and is very 
commonly cultivated in this way. It may be often seen in the 
windows of the poorest houses, especially in warm countries, being 
highly esteemed for the fresh, bright verdure of its foliage and its 
fine strong aromatic odour. It forms very compact tufts, covered, 




habit, somewhat less branch- 
ing than either of the two 
preceding kinds ; but the 
plant is apparently derived 
from the same type. The 
flowers, which are closely 
set in clusters, make their 
appearance rather later in 
this variety. The leaves of 
this Basil, which are much 
larger than those of any 
other kind, are also much 
fewer in number. 



Lettuce-leaved Basil natural size). 



Curled-leaved Basil.— A 

variety with green jagged- 
edged, crisped, or curled 
leaves ; very distinct. 



BASIL 



23 



in the flowering season, with multitudes of small clusters of rosy- 
white flowers, which agreeably contrast with the intense green of 
the foliage. 

Compact Green Bush Basil. — The distinctive characteristic 
of this variety is the very great number of stems and leaves which 
it produces, causing each plant to present the appearance of a 
round mass or ball of verdure, close and compact. It is, conse- 
quently, far better suited for forming ornamental vases or pots of 




'Green Bush Basil Q natural size). Compact Bush Basil. 



greenery than the Common Bush Basil. It develops rapidly, and 
is generally preferred to all other sorts by market gardeners in the 
south of France. 

Purple Bush Basil.— A plant of a deep violet colour in all 
its parts, except the flowers, which are of a lilac-white. It forms a 
small, very compact, bushy, and leafy clump. 

Compact Purple Bush Basil.— A dwarf form of the Purple 
Bush Basil ; very bushy and compact, and covered with small 
purplish bronzy leaves, borne on numerous threadlike stems. It is 
specially suitable for pot cultivation. 

East Indian, or Tree Basil {Ocymum gratissimum, L.). — The 
plant which is commonly found cultivated under the name of Tree 
Basil does not appear to be the true Ocymum gratissimum, L., but 
rather O. suave, Willd. It is an annual, with an upright stem, 
branching from the base, and forming a pyramidal bush from 
20 in. to 2 ft. high, and from i ft. to 16 in. in its greatest diameter. 
Leaves oblong, pointed, toothed ; flowers lilac, in irregular spikes 
at the ends of the branches. The plant has an agreeable perfume, 
but it is late-growing and more suited for a warm climate. 



24 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



THE COMMON OR BROAD BEAN 

Faha vulgaris^ Mill. ; Vicia Faba^ L. Leguminoscs, 

French, Feve, Gourgane. Gei-man, Garten-Bohne, Puff-Bohne. Flemish^ Platte Boon. 
Dutch, Tuin Boon. Danish^ Valske bonner. Italian^ Fava. Spanish^ Haba. 
Portuguese, Fava. 

Native of the East — Annual. — This plant has been cultivated, 
so far as we are able to learn, from the earliest ages, the large 
size and alimentary properties of its seeds having drawn attention 
to it and brought it into culture at some remote period of antiquity. 
Stem erect, hollow, quadrangular ; leaves alternate compound, 
pinnated, without any odd one, and with broad oval leaflets of a 
glaucous or ashy green colour. Flowers axillary in short bunches 
of two to eight, coloured white and black, sometimes tinged purple. 
Pods erect or curved back, broad, green, often flattened, lined with 
a kind of felt or down, and containing from three to eight seeds 
variable in shape and colour. The pods are black and brittle at 
maturity. As the size of the seeds varies very much in the 
different kinds, we shall always mention it in the description of 
each variety. In all the kinds the germinating power continues 
for six years at least. 

Culture. — Beans are usually sown, where they are to remain, 
about the end of February or the beginning of March. They like 
a rich, slightly humid, and well-manured soil, but they can be 
grown in almost any kind of ground. Many gardeners are in the 
habit of nipping off the tops of the plants when they are coming 
into flower ; but, as far as we can judge, this practice is more 
effectual in preventing the plants from being attacked by aphides 
than in inducing an earlier and more abundant crop. It is a good 
plan, whenever it can be done, to run the hoe a few times through 
the drills. There is seldom any occasion for watering, as the crop 
is generally gathered before this is required. 

Beans may also be sown in a frame in January, and planted 
out about a month afterwards. It is also not impossible, in the 
climate of Paris, to grow Beans after the winter mode of culture 
which is universally practised all through the south of Europe. 
According to this mode, a sowing is made at the end of October 
or the beginning of November in a position with a south aspect 
and well-drained soil, and the young plants are sheltered during 
the winter by placing frames over them. Instead of frames, we 
have sometimes seen hoops of casks stuck into the ground across 
the beds, so as to form an arched support for straw mats, which 
were spread over them in very frosty weather. This mode of 
culture is particularly well suited for dwarf or half-dwarf varieties. 
The plants which have been pushed on in this way are in full 
bearing three weeks or a month earlier than those which were not 
sown until spring. 



THE COMMON OR BROAD BEAN 



In English gardens, years ago, 
it was the practice to sow Broad 
Beans in October, November, and 
December for the earliest crops, but 
this is now seldom done ; the plants 
are generally raised in pots, boxes, 
or frames, and afterwards trans- 
planted to the open ground. This 
is undoubtedly the best plan, as the 
ground that would otherwise be 
occupied by the seed can be ridged 
or roughly dug, and exposed to the 
weather to get pulverised and freed 
from slugs, etc. By adopting the 
method of transplantation, fuller 
and more even rows can also be 
ensured. The first sowing should 
be made early in January in a frame 
or pit from which frost is excluded, 
or a sowing may be made in heat in 
February, and gradually hardened 
off after the plants are up. The 
plants should be grown stout and 
strong, and be in readiness for turn- 
ing out early in March, provided the 
weather is favourable. A south 
border, under a wall or hedge, 
should be chosen for them if possible, 
and after planting, if planks or thin 
boards can be placed edgeways on 
each side of the rows, to protect 
them from cold winds, all the better. 
The rows should be planted from 
2 to 2 2 ft. apart, and the plants in 
the rows should be 4 or 5 in. apart. 
This will be found to be room 
enough for early crops if dwarf 
varieties be grown. If the weather 
be favourable throughout the spring, 
the crop will be fit for use by the 
middle of June, which is as early as 
Broad Beans are generally expected 
to be fit for use. Successional sow- 
ings may be made in the open ground 
in January and February, and the 
principal sowings should be in March 
and April. If late crops be required, 
small sowings may be made as late 
as July ; this is, however, seldom 
done. In order to obtain late crops 



some growers, after gathering the 
produce from the main or summer 
crops, cut down the plants to within 
a few inches of the ground, then 
give them a good watering, and in 
a few days they throw out young 
shoots, which eventually furnish a 
fair crop of late beans, though, of 
course, not so fine as the previous 
crop. Others sacrifice part of the 
summer crops, and cut down the 
plants just as they are coming into 
bloom ; the produce from these is, 
of course, finer than that from plants 
that have previously borne a crop. 
Either of these ways is, however, 
preferable to sowing for late crops, 
inasmuch as the plants are hardier, 
and, being well rooted, stand the 
dry weather late in the summer and 
the cold in the autumn. By this 
method beans of fair quality may 
be had up till late in November, 
unless the weather be unusually 
severe. 

Sowings for successional and main 
crops may be made on open quarters, 
or between rows of Spinach or any 
other crop that will be cleared 
before the beans get very high ; 
the former, however, is best when 
ground can be spared. The seed 
should be sown in rows from 2| to 
3 ft. apart, the beans being placed 
about 4 or 5 in. apart, and they 
may either be put in with a blunt 
dibble, or drills may be drawn for 
them 2 or 3 in. deep. Previous to 
sowing main crops, the seed should 
be soaked in water for a few hours 
to accelerate vegetation. Earthing- 
up the young plants is advisable for 
early crops, for it affords a slight 
protection to the plants during cold, 
windy weather ; for other crops it is 
not needed. When the plants show 
sufficient bloom to produce a good 
crop, their tops may be picked out 
in order to enhance the setting of 
the blooms and development of the 



26 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



pods. Where tall varieties are 
grown, some support should be given 
them to prevent their being broken 
by the wind. The best support is 
thick twine tied to strong stakes 
driven in the ground on each side 
of the rows. Long, slender sticks, 
tied to the stakes, lengthways along 
the rows, will answer, but the plants 
are apt to get bruised against them 
when swayed to and fro by the wind. 

Kinds. — Although there have re- 
cently been many new and valuable 
additions made to our lists of beans, 
there are some of the older kinds 
that still maintain their position. 
Dwarf kinds are sometimes pre- 
ferred for the smallness of the beans 
rendering them more delicate-look- 
ing than some of the larger varieties. 
Of dwarf kinds. Beck's Green Gem 
and the Dwarf Fan are two of 
the best ; the plants assume a 
neat, compact habit, are abundant 
croppers, and good in quality ; in 
this respect, however. Beck's Gem is 
preferable, on account of its green 
colour. The taller kinds of Mazagan 
are not worth growing in comparison 
with the Long-pods and Windsors ; 
but where small beans are preferred 
they answer the purpose. Though 
recommended in every book on the 
subject, the Mazagan is for us the 
worst and most useless of its race. 
The Long-pods are earlier than the 
Windsors, and are therefore prefer- 
able to them for first and second 
early crops. The Seville Long-pod 
is a variety of Broad Bean that has 
been for many years in cultivation 
on the Continent, especially in Spain, 
where it has done good service in 
supplying food during times of war. 
It well deserves the high commenda- 
tions bestowed upon it, and ought 
to be in every good garden. It is a 
very early variety, with immensely 
long pods, the points of which reach 
the ground and seem to prop up 



the plant. It is rather tender. The 
variety named Aguadulce is said 
to be the true variety of this. It 
is a taller and somewhat stronger 
grower. The Windsor is most suit- 
able for main or late crops. 

Soil, Mulching, and Watering. 
— A deep, well-drained, strong loam 
is most suitable for Broad Beans, 
with the exception of early crops, 
when the soil may be of a lighter 
character. Where the soil is too 
light, it may be improved by tread- 
ing it firmly whilst in a dry state, 
or planting without digging. If the 
ground in which Beans are to be 
grown has been manured for previ- 
ous crops, it will be found sufficiently 
rich for them, as a very rich soil 
will produce too luxuriant a growth, 
which is inimical to the production 
of pods. During dry weather it is 
a good plan to give a good mulching 
of half-rotted manure between the 
rows of main crops of beans to save 
watering ; but it should be done 
before the plants are in bloom, in 
order to keep the roots in a moist 
condition whilst the blooms are 
setting, this being highly necessary 
to the production of large, full pods. 
Watering is seldom necessary for 
Broad Beans if grown in a deep soil; 
where, however, the soil is shallow, 
it may sometimes be needed, in 
which case it should be thoroughly 
done, and afterwards the ground 
should be mulched. 

In London market gardens, when 
these beans are gro^vn, dry and 
light soils in warm positions are 
chosen for early sowings, which con- 
sist of the Early Mazagan. Sowings 
of this kind are made in January 
and again in February, in rows 2^ ft. 
apart, running across or obliquely 
in the borders or quarters. Large 
sowings of the Long-pod are made 
in the latter half of February and in 
March, in rows equally distant as 



THE COMMON OR BROAD BEAN 



27 



for Mazagans, but with less particu- 
larity as regards the way in which 
they run, the position of the quarter, 
or the quality of the soil which they 
occupy. The Broad Windsor, which 
forms the principal crop, is generally 
sown in March. The Green Broad 
Windsor is preferred by consumers ; 
therefore market gardeners generally 
grow this sort for the main crop. 



Some cultivators grow beans for 
seeding purposes, and in this case 
about one-half or two-thirds of the 
pods, consisting of the earliest 
formed, are picked off for marketing 
in a green or usable condition, the 
'remainder being left to ripen. If all 
were left the seeds would not be 
so large, plump, or heavy as when 
the pods are thus thinned out. * 



Uses. — The seeds, or beans, are eaten boiled, both in the green 
and dried state. In the south of France the young pods are some- 
times boiled and eaten. Broad Beans are not thought so much 
of in private gardens as Kidney Beans, but by the poorer classes 
they are much grown. Generally they are not considered a 
remunerative crop, inasmuch as they do not continue long in 
bearing. The green-seeded varieties are usually preferred to the 
white ones, because they retain their green appearance when 
cooked, whilst the white ones become dark brown. The Bean 
suffers from the usual and bad practice of allowing the pods to 
become old and hard before they are used. It is an excellent 
vegetable when gathered at the right time and properly cooked, 
and as it is wholly distinct in flavour from any form of Kidney or 
Runner Bean, it deserves more attention both from the gardener 
and the good cook. Beans are often gathered for table before they 
have attained half their size ; but this is not advisable, as they 
sometimes taste bitter when so small. The best-flavoured beans 
are those that are full-grown but young. If any be required for 
soup, a row may remain until they become black-eyed. When 
gathering for exhibition, choose young, long, straight, and shapely 
pods, as nearly alike as possible, and the more beans they contain 
the better. 

Large Common Field Bean. — Stem quadrangular, erect, about 
2j ft. high, and almost always tinged with red ; leaves usually 
consisting of four or five oval gray-green leaflets. At the base of 
each leaf, the stem is encircled, for about two-thirds of its circum- 
ference, by two broad, toothed, sheathing stipules marked with a 
blackish spot. Flowers, five to eight in number, in clusters, the 
first of which commences at the fifth or sixth leaf from the base of 
the stem ; they are pretty large, white, marked on the standard 
with dark-brown streaks, and with a spot of velvety black on each 
of the wings. Pods often two or three together, sometimes curved 
when fully grown, or becoming pendent from their weight, at other 
times remaining quite erect. They are over i in. broad, and from 
5 to 6 in. long, and contain from two to four very large seeds 
which are longer than broad. 

*■ The Bean Aphis Disease, see p. 77^- 



28 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



There are numerous sub-varieties of this Bean : one of them is 
well known in the trade as the Large Sicily Field Bean. It is a 
little dwarfer, and more yellow in the foliage, and decidedly earlier 
than the variety from Northern France. 

Seville Long-pod Bean. — Stem quadrangular, erect, 2 to 
2j ft. high, not very stout, sometimes quite green, and sometimes 
slightly tinged with red. The foliage is very clearly distinguished 

from that of other 
varieties by its lighter 
shade of green, and 
by the more elongated 
shape of the leaflets. 
The flowers in each 
cluster are not very 
numerous, usually 
from two to four, and 
sometimes there is 
even only one ; the 
standard is green- 
white, longer than 
broad, and remains 
folded in the centre, 
even when the flower 
is fully blown. This 
peculiarity gives the 
flowers the appear- 
ance of being longer 
and narrower in this 
variety than in any 
other, and they have 
hardly any tinge of 
red or violet. The 
first cluster of flowers 
usually appears in the 
axil of the seventh 
leaf from the base 

Seville Long-pod Bean (pods i natural size). of the Stem. Pods 

something over J in. 

broad, and from 8 in. to i ft. long, either solitary or in pairs, and 
soon becoming pendent with their weight. They contain from 
four to eight seeds each, resembling those of the Large Common 
Field Bean, but generally a little smaller. This is an early variety, ' 
but not so hardy as the preceding one ; its pods are, however, 
considerably longer. 

Aguadulce Long-podded Bean. — This fine Bean, with its 
immense pods nearly 2 in. wide and 14 to 16 in. long, is not, 




j THE COMMON OR BROAD BEAN 29 

i properly speaking, a distinct variety, but is the real Seville Long- 
j pod in the highest state of development. As usual, however, the 
number of the pods is, in these plants, in inverse ratio to their 
I increased size, and while the Large Common Field Bean or the 




Extra Long-podded Aguadulce Bean (pods | natural size). 



Broad Windsor may have ten to fifteen pods on a stem, it is a 
rare occurrence to find a stem of the Aguadulce Bean bearing 
more than three or four well-grown pods. 

Perfection Bean. — Vigorous, tall, with stout stem and 
intense green leaves ; pods long, resembling, without equalling, those 



30 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



of the Seville Bean. While the Seville variety is rather delicate, 
the Perfection Bean is hardy enough for the climate of Northern 
France. It may be sown like the Common Field Bean, either in 
spring or in the autumn, with some protection during the winter. 

Broad Windsor Bean. — Stem very stout, quadrangular, erect, 
2 ft. 7 in. to 3 ft. 3 in. high, of a reddish or bronzy tinge, which 
extends to the leaf-stalks, and is deeper than the similar coloration 
of the stalks of the Large Common Field Bean. Leaves large, 
round-oval, rather glaucous green. Flowers of medium size, re- 
sembling those of the Large Common Field Bean, but not more 
than from four to six in a cluster, and having a reddish or violet- 




Broad Windsor Bean natural size). 



coloured calyx. In this variety the first cluster of flowers does not 
commence before the eighth or tenth leaf from the base of the 
stem. Pods solitary or in pairs, almost always curved, and usually 
very broad towards the end ; they seldom contain more than two 
or three well-grown seeds. The seeds are very broad, with an 
almost regularly rounded outline. 

Green Windsor Bean. — This differs from the preceding kind 
only in the colour of its seeds, which, even when ripe, remain of a 
deep green colour. Windsor Beans are very strong-growing and 
productive varieties, but somewhat late, which is a serious drawback 
in dry climates, where Beans are exposed to the attacks of rust 
and aphides. 

Small July Bean. — The general appearance of this plant very 
much resembles that of the Large Common Field Bean. Stems 
quadrangular, very erect, reddish, attaining a height of about 



THE COMMON OR BROAD BEAN 



31 



2^ ft. ; leaves gray, with round-oval leaflets ; flowers red on the 
calyx and at the base of the standard, and with well-marked black 



spots on the wings, four 
appearing in the axil of 
the fifth or sixth leaf; pods 
erect, often three or four 
together, nearly cylindri- 
cal, and not much thicker 
than one's finger. They 
usually contain three or 
four seeds each, which are 
elongated, thickish, and 
not flattened at the sides, 
like those of the preceding 
kinds. The July Bean is 
a hardy kind, and less 
affected by hot, dry weather 
than either the Windsor 
Bean or the Large Common 
Field Bean, and, notwith- 
standing the comparatively 
small size of its seeds, it 
yields almost as heavy a 
crop as either of those 
kinds ; for, although its 
pods are shorter and nar- 
rower than those of the 
large-seeded varieties, they 
are produced in far greater 
numbers, and the seeds 



to six in a cluster, the first cluster 




Small July Bean, 



are, at the same time, very uniformly well grown and well filled. 

Dwarf Fan, or Cluster, Bean. — A plant growing 14 to 16 in. 
high, with a quadrangular stem tinged with brownish-red or copper 
colour, and rather slender, but stiff and strong leaves, ashy-green, 
with rather small, oval-elongated, pointed leaflets. Flowers small, 
four to six in a cluster, with a slightly reddish calyx, and the 
standard more or less purple at the base. The first flowers come 
in the axil of about the sixth leaf from the base of the stem. The 
pods are erect, in twos or threes, each containing from two to four 
square-sided, bulging seeds, of the same colour as those of the Large 
Common Field Bean. 

Beck's Dwarf Green Gem Bean. — A very compact-growing 
variety, much dwarfer than the preceding kind, being only i ft. or 
14 in. high. Stem stiff", green, or slightly tinged with red ; leaves 
very closely set and arranged like a fan on each side of the stem ; 
leaflets oval, rather pointed, glaucous green ; flowers small, with a 



32 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



purple tinge at the base of the standard ; pods small but numerous, 
about the size of the little finger, each containing three or four 
dark green, very full and rounded seeds, which are not much larger 

than a good-sized Horse 
Bean. Both the preceding 
kind and this one in par- 
ticular are especially well 
suited for forcing in a 
frame. Although dwarf, 
they are great bearers, 
and even in the open air 
will yield a good crop 
without the drawback of 
throwing too much shade 
on other plants growing 
near them, which the 
taller - growing kinds of 
Beans sometimes do. 

The Very Dwarf 
Scarlet Bean is a small 
and very early variety, 
but not very productive. 
It has erect, slender 
pods, about the size of 
the little finger, each 
generally containing two 
or three oblong seeds of a dark brown colour. 

Early Mazagan Bean. — Under this name are cultivated several 
kinds, which are certainly distinct from one another, all of them 
small-seeded varieties, but varying in height and earliness. They 
usually produce numerous erect, very slightly flattened pods, each 
containing three or four seeds intermediate in size between that of 
the July Bean and a large Horse Bean. 

There are two other varieties : one with pure white and the 
other with red flowers. They are sometimes cultivated, but are of 
no great merit. There is also a Broad Bean with yellow pods, like 
those of the Butter Beans, but unfit for use, and the plant is a mere 
curiosity. 

KIDNEY BEAN, or FRENCH BEAN 

Phaseohis vulgaris, L. Leguniinosce. 

French^ Haricot, Phaseole. Gerinaii, Bohne. Flernish and Dutch, Boon. Danish, 
Havebonner. Italian^ Fagiuolo. Spanish, Habichuela, Judia, Frijol. Portuguese, 
Feijao. 

Native of South America. — Annual. — A plant of rapid growth, 
flowering and seeding soon after it is sown. Stem slender, twining. 




Dwarf Fan, or Cluster, Bean (pods ^ natural size). 



ii 



KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN 



33 



usually channelled or angular, rough to the touch, always twining 
in the direction of from right to left (but there are several dwarf 
varieties, with stiff stems, which do not require any support). 
Leaves large, composed of three triangular leaflets, which have the 
angles at the base rounded, are rough on the surface, and of various 
shapes and sizes. The flowers are produced in the axils of the 
leaves, in clusters containing from two to eight flowers each. They 
resemble other papilionaceous flowers, but are rather irregular in 
shape, the petals being often twisted in an unsymmetrical manner, 
and the keel especially being generally reduced to two small blades 
which are more or less convex and non-adherent to each other. 
Hence it results that the pistil is not so completely covered as it is 
in most other papilionaceous flowers, and consequently spontaneous 
crossing very frequently occurs amongst the varieties of this plant. 
The pods and seeds of the different kinds vary much in shape, 
colour, size, and substance. 

We shall describe each variety separately, merely observing 
here that the difference in the texture of the pods has led to the 
division of the plants into two classes, viz. the Tough-podded, the 
pods of which become hard and leathery when ripe, and the Edible- 
podded, the pods of which never become stringy, even when dried. 
The germinating power of the seeds continues for three years. 

The Kidney Bean does not appear to have been known to the 
ancients ; for, although Columella and Virgil mention a plant 
under the name of Phaseolus or Phaselus, this could not have been 
our Kidney Bean, which, even in Italy, does not accommodate 
itself to being sown in autumn, like the Phaseolus of these authors. 
It is certain that the Kidney Bean is a native of a warm climate, 
and in the absence of positive documentary proofs of its original 
habitat and the time of its introduction into cultivation, there 
are good grounds for assenting to the opinion of Monsieur Alph. 
de CandoUe, that it was originally a native of South America, 
and was introduced into Europe in the sixteenth century. The 
old French writers on kitchen-garden subjects do not mention it 
before that period, and give it but scant notice in comparison with 
that which they bestow on Peas and Garden Beans. Since their 
time, however, and chiefly owing to the power which the plant 
possesses of producing numerous varieties, its culture has acquired 
a considerable amount of importance. In France, every year, 
many millions of kilogrammes of the seeds are harvested (the 
kilogramme is equal to 2\ lb. avoirdupois) ; and, besides this, 
considerable quantities are imported, and form a large part of 
the national food. They contain more azote or nitrogen than 
almost any other vegetable, and their chemical composition in 
some degree approaches that of the flesh of animals. 

Culture.— The Kidney Bean is very sensitive of cold, and 

3 



34 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



will not grow well or vigorously in a temperature which is not over 
50° Fahr. It is destroyed by one or two degrees of frost. It 
likes a rich, light, well-drained soil, with which manure has been 
thoroughly well mixed, and it may be observed that it does better 
in soil which has been well manured in the previous year than in 
newly manured ground. This remark applies to field cultivation, 
as well as to that of the kitchen-garden. 

We will now rapidly review the various modes of cultivation 
under which Kidney Beans are grown. As they delight in fresh 
air and light, they are seldom sown in hot-beds for a first crop 
before February (they are sometimes so sown in December or 
January, but it is not unusual to see plants which are raised at 
that time pine away or damp off). The seed is sown in a frame^ 
placed on a bed of fresh manure, which is covered with good soil or 
leaf-mould to the depth of 5 or 6 in. Air should be regularly 
given whenever the weather permits, taking care at the same time 
not to bring down the temperature to a degree that would be 
injurious. As the plants increase in size, all sickly or discoloured 
leaves should be removed, as well as any of the healthy ones which 
give too much shade or hinder the free circulation of the air. 

The first crop may be gathered eight or ten weeks after sowing, 
and sometimes sooner when the weather is favourable. Sowings 
on hot-beds may be continued until March. The plants so raised 
in April are usually planted out in the open air ; and, in fact, 
plants raised in hot-beds may be always advantageously pricked 
out. Some gardeners keep their forced Flageolet Beans growing, 
and after taking from them a crop of green pods, leave some to 
ripen, from which they obtain another crop of fresh ripe Beans in 
May, when they command a high price. The varieties which are 
generally used for this purpose are the Dwarf Dutch Kidney 
Bean, which is much the same as the White Flageolet ; the Early 
Etampes Flageolet, and the Scalloped-leaved Flageolet. The Black 
Belgian Kidney Bean and the Yellow Chalandray are also vrell 
adapted for forcing. 

The time for making a sowing, in the open air, of Kidney 
Beans, the pods of which are intended to be gathered in the green 
state, commences as soon as all danger of frost is over, and the soil 
has become sufficiently warm. Successional sowings may be made 
from April to August. The seed may be sown either in holes 
made with the dibble, or in drills, according as the kinds sown 
vary in vigour and growth. This mode of culture requires hardly 
any attention except the use of the hoe and watering in hot 
weather. Some gardeners are in the habit of earthing-up the 
plants at the first hoeing, and this gerierally appears to be pro- 
ductive of good results ; the flowers come into bloom continuously^ 
and the growth of the young pods is very rapid, so that gatherings 



KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN 



may be made from the same drills every two or three days, and if 
the plants which were latest sown are protected from frost, green 
pods may be gathered in the open air up to the end of October. 
It is usually the tough-podded kinds which are grown for use in 
the green state, and the preference is given to those varieties in 
which the young pods are long, straight, very green, and rather 
cylindrical than flattish in shape. The kinds which are chiefly 
grown about Paris for this purpose are Swiss Kidney Beans, 
especially the Gray Swiss and the Black Flageolet. 

In gardens, hardly any kinds are grown for the seeds or beans 
except the White or Green Flageolets, and they are cultivated just 
in the same way as the kinds of which the pods are used in the 
green state. The pods are gathered when they begin to grow 
yellow, and are no longer brittle. Dry seeds are obtained by 
allowing them to ripen thoroughly, but some may be preserved 
tender for winter use by taking up the plants a short time before 
the pods are ripe, drying them in the shade, and then packing 
them closely together in a dry place, when the leaves will gradually 
fall off, while the pods continue attached, and the seeds will remain 
tender and possess nearly the same flavour as if they had been just 
newly gathered. 

Tall-growing Kidney Beans, whether grown for the sake of the 
green pods or the seeds, are treated in exactly the same way as 
those already described, except that they require to be supplied 
with poles or branches to support their climbing stems. These 
supports, which are of different materials in different districts, vary 
in height from 5 to nearly 10 ft., according to the height of the 
variety grown. Those used about Paris consist chiefly of Chestnut 
loppings, with few branches or none, and when staked they are 
usually inclined, so that two rows of stakes meet at the top. The 
object of this arrangement is to make the rows firmer, and better 
able to resist high winds. Sometimes, for greater security, every 
two opposite stakes are tied together near the top, thus forming 
a series of gables, which are fastened to poles laid lengthways in 
the forks, and, in this way, although it may seem a little trouble- 
some, a structure of great strength and stability is obtained. 



Though we by no means make 
such good use of the Kidney Bean 
in its many and valuable dried 
forms as the French do, its culture 
in Britain is of the highest import- 
ance, and we look to its being much 
more so in the future, when the 
value of the many kinds described 
in this book is generally known. 

Sowing and Culture Out-of- 



DOORS. — An early sowing is gene- 
rally made, in order to be able to 
pick Kidney Beans before it is 
possible to have those of the Scarlet 
Runner type in bearing ; but as 
soon as these come in, French 
Beans too often are almost lost 
sight of. For small gardens the 
French Bean is invaluable as a 
summer vegetable, being easily 



36 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



gTovrn. many kinds requiring no 
stakes, and being cne ■■A the most 
rem-anerative of ^■ege:a;ie crops. 
I: may be had ^ out-of-doors b;tk 

the tader-gTO"''^:ng kincs. o^^^mg to 
its dwarf habit adapting irse'f to 
any situation — as, f:r instance, 
under hedges or ^i■aiis, cr otner 
sneitered positicns ; it aiso comes 
int: :earin; much more cuickiv 
tnan Runners. 

Where Frencn Beans are grown 
in the coen air withcut prcteincn, 
it is im.r:ssi:ie tj have tnem ht to 
gather before toe iatter end of June 

are s: in a warm, dry situatitn. 

had dt f:r taoie durinu the second 
and tnird v,-ee:<s m Tune. Where 
it is desirabie to have Beans out-of^ 

tnicitiy under hand-i;gnts m a warm 





:-tter to leave tnem unwotered 
mtii the next mrrning. Aii pos- 
i:ie or:te:tion sntuid then be 



case planting in patches should be 
practised, as the lights can be more 
easily placed over them : but small 
twigs of Laurel or Fir fixed neatly 
round them answer the purpose 
in the absence of anything better. 
Rough hay-bands stretched length- 
vays over the rows, about 6 or 
S m. from the ground, and firmly 
secured to stout stakes driven in 
the ground at each end of the rows, 
may be employed with advantage. 
A rough frame, made with sticks 
driven in the ground and others 
tied across them to admit of mats, 
straw hurdles, or any other pro- 
tecting material being laid upon 
them at night, is also useful : but 
v.-b.-itever is used to protect them, 
care must be taken so to place it 
as to avoid draughts as much as 
possible. Sowings for this purpose 
may be made in the beguining of 
April. If the weather be favour- 
able, the ground in which early 
Beans are to be grown should be 
deeply dug and left rather rough. 
The next day, when the sun is 
going down, the ground should be 
again turned over with a fork, in 
order to turn the warm soil under- 
neath and expose the cold to the 
next day's sun. If this can be done 
two or three days consecutively, a 
great advantage will be gained. 
The last time on which the soil is 
moved it should be made fine on 
the top, to prevent the under-soil 
again becoming cold. 

When the seed is sown where it 
is to remain, drills may be drawn 
v.-itn a hoe, 2 ft. apart and 2 in. 
deep, and sumciently wide to admit 
of f-vo r;w5 cf Beans being placed 
3 cr 4 :n. apart. The distance 
from bean to bean in the rows is 
usually S or 9 inches. Where seed 
is no object, they may be sown 
much thicker, and thinned out to 
the required distances apart, after 



KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN 



37 



they are up, by removing the weakest 
plants. In any case, a few extra 
seeds should be thrown in at the 
ends of the rows to provide for 
filling up blanks, which often occur 
in early crops when the ground is 
cold and wet. The earliest sowing 
out-of-doors should be made the 
second or third week in April, if 
the weather be favourable, otherwise 
it is better to wait a little longer. 
It is not advisable to plant very 
largely for early crops, unless they 
are wanted in quantity ; it will be 
found better to make two or three 
small sowings at intervals of a week 
or ten days during April ; after that 
the principal or main sowings may 
be made until the middle of June, 
after which time make a few smaller 
sowings for autumn use. The last 
sowing should not be later than the 
end of July, unless protection can 
be afforded the plants in the autumn. 
For principal crops the plants should 
be thinned out to 9 in. or i ft. 
apart in the row, the rows being 
2 1 or 3 ft. asunder, according to the 
varieties grown. 

Earthing-up the row is a point 
that has been much disputed, some 
growers being of opinion that it 
is beneficial, while others think 
the reverse. For early crops we 
should, however, strongly recom- 
mend earthing-up, as it has a 
tendency to keep the soil around the 
roots in a drier, and consequently 
a warmer, state than it otherwise 
would be; for the main crops, how- 
ever, we would recommend rather 
deeper planting, and heavy mulch- 
ings in dry weather in preference 
to earthing-up. Stopping the points 
of the shoots is practised by some 
growers ; it is, however, immaterial 
for general crops, but in the case 
of early Beans and those grown 
under glass it is advantageous. 

Soil. — French Beans like a light. 



rich, sweet soil ; therefore if the 
ground does not already possess these 
qualities, good rotten manure or 
leaf-mould should be added. If 
worms abound, a good dressing of 
soot or lime should be given, and 
if this can be done in the winter, 
and the ground thrown into ridges 
or roughly dug, it will be all the 
better. For pots and beds under 
glass the soil should consist of 
three-quarters light turfy loam, and 
one-quarter decomposed manure or 
leaf-mould. Soil in which Cucum- 
bers have recently been growing 
will generally answer well for 
Beans ; in all cases a sprinkling of 
soot amongst it will be found bene- 
ficial. We have seen trimmings 
from the edgings of walks, chopped 
up and mixed with fresh horse- 
droppings, used for pot culture with 
the very best results. 

Mulching and Watering. — A 
good mulching of seaweed or half- 
rotted manure from old linings, or 
litter from Vine borders, applied 
between the rows of all kinds of 
Kidney Beans that are grown out- 
of-doors, will be found beneficial in 
keeping the soil about the roots 
in a moist condition, and in pro- 
moting a free and luxuriant growth, 
which is highly necessary to the 
production of long supplies of fine, 
tender, and juicy Beans. Copious 
waterings at the roots will be neces- 
sary for all kinds of Beans, wher- 
ever they are grown, when they are 
coming into flower, if the weather 
be dry — otherwise, instead of the 
blooms setting, they will fall off. 
Manure-water may also be advan- 
tageously applied after they are set, 
but not before, as it promotes so 
much growth, which is inimical to 
bearing. Guano-water may be given 
to those grown in pots with advan- 
tage ; but it is no better than good 
manure-water from the stable-yard, 



38 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



or that made from cow manure. 
Where, however, the latter is used, 
a Httle Hme should be previously 
dissolved in it, otherwise it has a 
tendency to make the soil sour and 
breed worms. Water in all cases 
should be applied in a tepid state ; 
and avoid pouring it close to the 
bases of the stems, as they may be 
injured by so doing. 

Culture in Pits and Frames. 
— The method to be adopted for 
growing Beans under glass must 
necessarily depend upon the nature 
of the structures in which they are 
to be grown. Where only cold-pits 
and frames are employed Beans can- 
not, of course, be obtained during 
the winter months, but by a little 
attention and skill they may be had 
very late in the autumn, and much 
earlier in the spring than they can 
be obtained in the open air. If 
heating material, such as stable 
litter and leaves, be plentiful, sow- 
ings may be made in pits or frames 
early in March. If pits be used, 
they should be filled up with 
heating material to within 2 ft. of 
the glass, firmly treading it down 
as the work proceeds. This done, 
a layer of rotten manure or leaf- 
mould may be spread over the litter 
to the thickness of 3 or 4 in. ; 
6 or 8 in. of soil may then be 
placed on the top, the lights put 
on and allowed to remain until the 
soil is found to have got warm, 
when the beans may be put in 
rather thickly, eventually thinning 
out so as to leave the plants 6 in. 
apart each way. If the soil be dry, 
watering will be necessary, but too 
much moisture must be avoided at 
this season of the year. If a lining 
of warm manure can be put round 
the pit it will be beneficial to the 
growth of the plants. A thick 
covering will be necessary at night 
to protect the plants from frost. 



Where wooden frames or boxes are 
used, a good bed of leaves and litter 
should be made, and the box should 
be placed upon it, building the 
lining up round the box to the level 
of the lights, as is done in the 
case of Cucumbers and Melons. If 
treated afterwards as recommended 
for pits, the plants will grow rapidly 
— i.e. if the weather be at all genial. 
When they have made two joints 
beyond the seed-leaves, the plants 
may be pricked out, in order to 
keep them dwarf and sturdy, and 
cause them to throw out stronger 
side-shoots than they otherwise would 
do. If a few small twigs be stuck 
in the soil between the plants, they 
will not be so liable to get broken. 
Abundance of air will be necessary 
when the plants are well established, 
but it must be given with care, as 
a rush of cold air suddenly admitted 
would cause the tender foliage to 
shrivel, and render the plants worth- 
less. If it be found that too much 
steam accumulates in the frame 
during the night, it will be necessary 
to leave a " crack " of air on. Beans 
may be obtained in this way by the 
end of May or beginning of June, 
and, if properly treated, will yield 
a fair supply until the early outdoor 
crops come into use. If, however, 
there be convenience, another sowing 
may be made in the same way a 
fortnight later, in order to ensure a 
supply in the event of any disaster 
befalling the first outdoor crop. 

Some growers prefer raising the 
plants in pots or boxes and trans- 
planting them into frames, and 
where time can be spared this plan 
is not without advantages ; others 
prefer growing them entirely in 
pots, and plunging them in the pits 
and frames. Thus managed, they 
come into bearing rather sooner, but 
they do not generally last so long, 
neither is the produce so fine as 



KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN 



from those planted out. Where there 
are pits heated by flues or hot-water 
pipes, good Beans may be produced 
throughput the winter by adopting 
the same mode of culture as that 
recommended in the case of cold- 
pits, with the exception that linings 
will be unnecessary, neither will 
bottom heat be needed ; but where 
it is not used, growing in pots 
placed upon boards near the glass 
is preferable to planting out, as the 
roots are not then surrounded by 
such a bulk of cold soil. In order 
to prolong the season, a sowing 
may be made in August in cold-pits 
or frames ; those lately cleared of 
Melons or Cucumbers will answer 
perfectly. It is a good plan, before 
sowing, to choose a fine, sunny day, 
and give the soil a good soaking of 
water, and to wash well all the wood 
or brickwork with a syringe, after 
which close the lights and let the 
sun have full power on the glass ; 
this will quickly put an end to 
insects. After sowing, the lights 
may be left off night and day, until 
the coldness of the weather neces- 
sitates their being put on. A good 
warm covering should be afforded 
during cold nights. By this means 
a good supply of Beans may be had 
until late in November, unless the 
weather be very severe. For this 
crop stopping the shoots is unneces- 
sary, inasmuch as the plants will 
continue longer in bearing if left 
undisturbed. 

Forcing Kidney Beans. — 
Forcing Kidney Beans in Novem- 
ber, December, and January is not 
easy work, as unless the house in 
which they are growing is light, 
airy, and well warmed, the crop 
can never be a profitable one. In 
badly heated damp structures Kid- 
ney Beans may be induced to grow, 
and even bloom, but very few pods 
■will be formed. Warm air alone 



suits them when in flower during 
the shortest days, and where this 
cannot be given freely forcing had 
better be deferred until February. 
When the days are lengthening and 
brightening, forcing is easy. I have 
grown them in beds, in pits, in 
wooden frames, in boxes, and in 
pots, and for convenience I prefer 
and recommend the latter. The 
seeds may be sown in 3 or 4 in, 
pots. These should have a few 
leaves put into the bottom of each ; 
then fill them half-way up with a 
mixture of sand, loam, and leaf-soil 
in the proportion of one part of the 
first and last to two of the loam. 
When all have been half filled and 
the soil made firm, six or eight 
seeds should be put into each ; then 
cover them over with more soil. 

As soon as sowing has been 
finished the whole should be placed 
in a house or pit, where the tem- 
perature ranges from 60° to 70° 
Do not give any water until the 
growths are seen pushing through 
the soil ; then never let them suffer 
from want of it. When the young 
plants have attained a height of 4 in., 
they should be put into their fruiting 
pots. These should be 8 or 9 in. 
ones, and to begin with they should 
be properly drained ; over the 
drainage place a layer of leaves or 
rough pieces of soil. The mixture 
of soil this time should be sub- 
stantial; no sand or leaf-soil need 
form part of it ; loam and half- 
decayed manure should be the sole 
ingredients. Old Mushroom-bed 
manure answers well for this pur- 
pose, and we prefer it to any other. 

The roots should not be dis- 
turbed when taken out of the small 
pots, and three or four of the small 
potfuls may be put together in one 
of a larger size. One hundred pots 
of seedlings may thus be reduced 
to thirty. Firm potting induces 



40 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



robust and fruitful growth. When 
potted, they should be again placed 
in a genial atmosphere, in which 
they will grow on rapidly and be 
in bloom from five to six weeks 
after sowing. Then it will take the 
pods about a fortnight to swell up, 
and the crop will be ready for the 
table in about eight weeks after 
sowing. As the pots fill with roots, 
large quantities of water must be 
given them, and frequent syringing 
as well, as having the atmosphere 
in which they are growing humid 
will prevent the attacks of insects. 
Red spider and thrips are very fond 
of indoor Kidney Beans, but both 
may be checked by water. When 
potted in good soil, manure-water 
will not be required until the first 
pods have been formed ; then it 
may be given them in quantity so 
long as they continue to bear. 
Sowings made every three weeks 
until the middle of April will keep up 
a constant supply of fine fresh pods 
until those sown outside come in. 

Those who wish to keep up a 
constant supply of forced Beans 
should sow a quantity every fort- 
night, beginning in September. We 
have kept up a fair supply by sow- 
ing five dozen potfuls at a time, 
but this, of course, must be done 
according to the demand. At times 
we have placed only one of the 
small potfuls of young plants in 
the 8 in. one, but where space was 
limited we have put three small 
potfuls into this size. When this 
can be conveniently done, it is a 
profitable way of growing Beans, as 
a great many more are secured from 
the pots with the most plants than 
from the others, and the space re- 
quired for both is about the same. 

When in bloom the flowers 
should be kept as dry as possible, 
as the fruit forms with more cer- 
tainty than when the blooms are 



damp. We never allow any of the 
growths to fall over the sides of 
the pots, as this checks them ; but 
when any of them are so tall or 
weak as not to be able to stand 
without support, pieces of birch 
from old brooms are put in to hold 
them up. As soon as any of the 
pods become large enough to 
gather, they should be removed 
from the plants at once, as there 
is nothing so much against the 
production of a long succession of 
pods from the same plants as allow- 
ing some of the first-formed pods to 
become old. — J. M. 

Kidney Beans to Force. — Ii 
was generally supposed that the 
best forcing Beans were Newington 
Wonder, Sir Joseph Paxton, Early 
Prolific, and Osborn's New Early 
Forcing. Mr. R. Gilbert then took 
to forcing Canadian Wonder, and 
it is likely that a great many more 
kinds might easily be forced. 
Amongst the French varieties, the 
most generally grown for that pur- 
pose are Triumph of the Frames, 
Etampes, Black Prince, Chalandray. 

Culture in Market Gardens. 

When Peas and Broad Beans 
begin to get comparatively scarce, 
French Beans are always welcomed 
in the London markets. They 
always command a sale, provided 
they are good and fresh, and over- 
stocking the market with them is 
almost a thing unknown ; but when 
large quantities of them are intro- 
duced prices are of course affected. 
Under any conditions, however, 
and all through the summer, a good 
crop of Beans is a profitable one, 
and where soil and situation are at 
all suitable, market growers culti- 
vate French Beans in large quanti- 
ties. The principal kinds grown 
are the Newington Wonder and 



I 



KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN 



Long-podded Negro, which, although 
old varieties, are reckoned to be the 
best for the market. Their produc- 
tive qualities are great, for when 
well attended to as regards timely 
picking of the pods, they continue 
fresh, vigorous, and fruitful for a 
long time, and their pods, as a rule, 
are less apt to turn tough and 
unusable with , age than is the case 
with some varieties. The Black 
Belgian has also found its way into 
the market-gardens ; it is a good, 
dwarf, early sort, much like the 
Negro, of which it is considered to 
be a variety. It is very useful for 
late sowings and for early frame 
work. Some growers prefer the 
Newington Wonder to all other 
sorts ; it is a very prolific dwarf- 
growing kind. Other growers prefer 
the Negro, which they grow in 
frames, for their earliest, main, and 
latest crops ; but most of them also 
grow the Newington Wonder. The 
Canadian Wonder or Red Flageolet 
is one which will doubtless be 
grown largely for market. It is a 
robust grower, a good cropper, and 
its pods are nearly as large as 
those of a Scarlet Runner and of 
good quality. 

Early crops in market gar- 
dens are grown in frames, such as 
have been cleared of Cauliflower 
and Lettuce plants; the mould in 
the frames is pointed over with a 
spade, and the beans are sown in 
four rows under each light, and 
about 3 or 4 in. from seed to 
seed in the row, when the soil is 
dry. The middle of March is the 
common lime for sowing in frames, 
and then the sashes are kept close 
till the seeds have germinated, when 
they are tilted up a little at the 
back in favourable weather; but 
care is always taken to keep them 
close in the case of cold winds, and 
to cover them over with mats or 



litter in the event of frost. As the 
plants advance they are treated 
more hardily, but judiciously, ac- 
cording to the weather. After the 
middle of May, when all fear of 
frost has passed, the sashes are 
entirely drawn off throughout the 
day, if fine, and replaced at night. 
Whilst growing, plenty of water is 
given them at the roots, and pick- 
ing commences about the second 
or third week in June, or about 
three weeks sooner than the earliest 
border crops come into use. A 
few frames, too, are also frequently 
occupied by French Beans sown 
thickly, for the purpose of trans- 
planting thence to the open ground, 
and to fill any blanks that may exist 
in the frames in which the sowings 
for fruiting therein have been made. 

The first outdoor crop is 
usually transplanted from such 
frames, and the warmest possible 
position is selected for this pur- 
pose ; the time for so doing entirely 
depends on the state of the weather 
and nature of the ground. If the 
weather be fine, the soil moderately 
dry and light, and the position warm 
and sheltered, the plants are com- 
monly transplanted during the first 
fortnight of April, but if otherwise,, 
they are delayed a little later. They- 
are then lifted with as much earth 
adhering to their roots as possible,, 
and are planted in little patches, 
under hand-lights. The usual way- 
is to draw lines 3 ft. apart across the- 
border, others 2^ ft. asunder length- 
ways, and upon the middle of every- 
little square thus marked place an. 
ordinary hand-light, under which: 
place six or eight plants. If there • 
be not sufficient hand-lights for the- 
whole space to be planted, half- 
bushel vegetable baskets are in-- 
verted over the plants; and, as they 
are so open to the wind, they arc: 
sometimes covered for a time with, 



42 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



mats. As soon as the Beans have 
got a good hold of the, soil and 
begun to grow, their protection is 
removed. Great care must be exer- 
cised with hand-light Beans, other- 
wise they are a deceptive crop, and 
sometimes die off altogether, espe- 
cially when nursed too tenderly and 
changed too suddenly, if the ground 
he cold and wet, and their top cover- 
ing insufficient. Those grown in 
frames, and which come into bear- 
ing early in June, last in good 
picking condition for six weeks ; 
and those in warm borders begin to 
fruit in the last week of June or 
first week in July, and continue to 
yield a fair crop for nearly two 
months in a moderately moist 
season, if kept closely picked. The 
first main crop immediately follows 
the border ones, and, as a rule, lasts 
the longest. Drought makes them 
short-lived sometimes, but in rich 
soils, and warm, moist seasons, the 
yield is so heavy that it is scarcely 
possible to pick them as quickly as 
they grow. Drought, too, induces 
red spider, with which large fields 
are sometimes completely overrun ; 
and although this pest is very pre- 
judicial to the health and longevity 
of the crop, there is no remedy 
for it. 

French Beans are gross feeders ; 
they require manurial substances of 
such a character as can be speedily 
turned to account ; therefore, land 
that was richly manured for the 
previous crop — such as for Celery 
— and which has afterwards again 
been liberally dressed with short 
manure, such as that from Mush- 
room-beds or old Cucumber-pits, 
suits them perfectly. The crop to 
succeed such as are grown under 
hand-lights is planted on a south 
border, in front of a wall or thick 
hedge if possible, which is dug 
over and lined off in cross-rows 



at 1 8 in. apart, drawing the lines 
in the form of seed-furrows with a 
hoe. Herein are planted Beans 
5 in. asunder in the row ; they are 
earthed-up in due time, and, if the 
weather be favourable, come into 
bearing three weeks after those 
grown in frames. Some growers 
erect barricades of mats in an up- 
right position to stakes driven in the 
earth, and placed to the windward 
side of the borders ; and they also 
surround frames containing them, 
but not covered with sashes, with 
the same protection to ward off cold 
and frosty winds. 

Out-of-door sowing begins 
during the first fortnight in April, 
just as the state of the weather and 
soil permits, and the warmest avail- 
able position is selected for the pur- 
pose. If the ground be free from 
all other crops at the time of sowing, 
there is more need for a sheltered 
place than if it were cropped. In 
sowing, the lines are drawn at 2, 
25, and sometimes 3 ft. apart, and 
the seeds planted about 4 or 5 in. 
asunder. The earliest crop is often 
sown in drills drawn between lines 
of Cauliflowers, Cabbages, or Let- 
tuces. These crops, instead of being 
injurious to the French Beans when 
they appear above ground, are very 
beneficial to them, inasmuch as they 
protect them from cold winds until 
they have gained some strength and 
the weather becomes mild and warm, 
by which time the bulk of the Cauli- 
flowers will have been removed for 
market. Even then, however, the 
Beans do not get all the space to 
themselves, for no sooner is the earth 
cleared of the other crop than it is 
loosened a little between every alter- 
nate line, and those spaces replanted 
with Lettuces or similar crops. Thus 
one space contains another catch 
crop while the other is empty; and 
by means of having this empty space 



KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN 



to walk in, the women can pick two 
lines of Beans, one on either side of 
the empty alley, and never disturb 
the other crops in the alternate alleys. 
Should the French Beans have come 
up well, and be nearly ready for 
picking before the first occupants 
of the soil are entirely removed, the 
alleys are not cropped again until 
they become exhausted. The drills 
for sowing are drawn in the morning 
of a fine day and left until the after- 
noon, when seeds are sown and some 
earth drawn over them. 

The first main sowing is made 
in the open fields about the second 
or third week in April, under the 
same circumstances as that already 
mentioned, or the field may have 
been previously planted out with 
Cos Lettuces in lines 12, 15, or 
18 in. apart; between every two 
lines of these would be sown one of 
3eans. Along both sides of Aspara- 
gus ridges Beans also often find a 
place. Some growers sow late crops 
in rows 4 ft. apart, and plant two 
rows of Coleworts in every interven- 
ing alley. Before the seeds appear 
the soil immediately over the seeds 
is gone over and slightly loosened 
with an iron-toothed rake, so as to 
permit of an easy egress of the seed- 
lings. When sown in bare fields, 
even though Lettuces be planted 
amongst them, a Httle ridge of soil 
is frequently drawn to the north or 
windward side of them as an addi- 
tional protection from cold winds. 
Whilst the plants are growing they 
are carefully attended to as regards 
.keeping them clean and hoeing 
the soil, and when they reach 4 in. 
in height they are earthed up a 
little. The catch crops, too, are 
cleared away as soon as they are 
ready, in order to give the French 
Beans every opportunity of a healthy 
development. Successive sowings 
:are made every fortnight or three 



weeks, until the end of June, by 
some, but most of the large growers 
sow about April 8th and 20th, the 
first and last week in May, and 
the first week in July. The last 
sowing consists of the Negro, and 
just yields a good crop of young 
and fine pods before being destroyed 
by frost ; whereas, were they sown 
a fortnight later, they would be 
apt to be nipped when coming 
into bloom. 

Gathering is well attended to, 
for if full-grown pods be allowed to 
remain too long on the plants they 
soon cease to bear. The Beans are 
gathered by women into baskets, 
which, when full, they carry on 
their heads to the end of the rows, 
there to leave them to be carted 
home, where they are washed to 
remove the grit. They are then 
packed into round half-bushel vege- 
table baskets, which are covered 
with Rhubarb leaves fastened down 
with withies, and piled one above 
another on the waggons that convey 
them to market three times a week. 
Most market-gardeners save their 
own seed, and a piece of the main 
sowing is generally selected for this 
purpose. The plants in the rows to 
be saved for seed are first subjected 
to two or three pickings for market ; 
then they are left untouched until 
the beans are fully ripe, when the 
plants are pulled up by the roots, 
tied into little bunches, and slung 
in pairs across a fence or rail to dry. 
Sometimes, too, the haulm is spread 
over sashes to dry, and, in the event 
of wet weather, is strewed under 
some spare sashes, where it gets 
well dried without getting wet. 
They are then housed, and during 
wintry weather are threshed, cleaned, 
and stored in rough brown paper or 
canvas bags, or placed in drawers, 
or in the corner of a loft, until 
sowing time arrives. 



KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN 



45 



Uses. — The young and tender pods of many kinds are eaten 
boiled. Every one knows the use which is made in cookery of the 
seeds or beans, either when dried or when gathered before they are 
quite ripe, but when the pods can just be opened without difficulty. 
And lastly, the Edible-podded or Mange-tout varieties are used 
from the time the seeds begin to swell until they are quite ripe. 
We heartily wish that English housekeepers and gardeners would 
look into the qualities of many of the fine varieties described in 
this book. Apart from the greater variety of valuable kinds of the 
types they know so well, two very valuable series deserve attention 
— those of which the pods may be eaten when large and mature, 
and the Flageolet kinds, which are very little used with us. * 

TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 



French, Haricots k ecosser. 
Italian, Fagiuoli da sgusciare. 

I. Tall-growing 
Varieties 

Soissons Large 
Runner Bean. — A plant 
with a slender green 
stem, growing 6\ ft. high 
or something more. 
Leaves pretty large, at 
wide intervals from each 
other; leaflets moderately 
crimped, rounded at the 
base, dark green slightly 
yellow ; lower leaves 
larger than the upper 
ones ; flowers white, pass- 
ing into yellow ; pods 
green, but turning to 
yellow when ripe, broad, 
somewhat curved, and 
generally irregular in 
shape, owing to the un- 
equal growth of the seeds, 
which are seldom more 
than four in number, and 
are white, kidney-shaped, 
and more or less humpy 
or round - backed ; they 
are nearly i in. long, 
about \ in. broad, and 




Soissons Lai^e Pole Bean. 
* Climbing French Beans, see pp. 758, 759- 



46 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



nearly | in. thick. They are late in ripening. The dried seeds of 
this variety are highly esteemed for their delicate flavour and the 
thinness of the skin. The plant is found to succeed in the greatest 
perfection in its native district, where it most probably enjoys 
conditions of soil and climate which are specially favourable to it ; 
but, when grown under a warmer sky, it sometimes suffers from the 
heat — the skin of the seed becomes thickened, and the seed loses 
its fine quality, and also degenerates in size and colour. 

Soissons Green-seeded Pole Bean. — In growth this 
variety is very much the same as the preceding, and equally 

vigorous and very pro- 
ductive. Pods long, 
broad, slightly curved. 
Seeds thick, kidney- 
shaped, a little over | in. 
long and |- in. broad, less 
than ^ in. thick. This 
variety is remarkable for 
the green colour of its 
seeds, as much so as 
in some of the dwarf 
Beans, such as the Green 
Flageolet and the Green 
Bagnolet ; while the crop 
produced is considerably 
larger. 

White Dutch, or 
Scimitar, Bean (//. Sadre 
d 7'ames). — A very vigor- 
ous-growing kind, nearly 
lo ft. in height. Stem 
thick and green ; leaves 
very large, deep green, 
crimped ; flowers large, 
white, fading to nankeen 
yellow, and forming long 
clusters ; pods straight, 
sometimes undulating on 
the sides, lO in. to i ft. 
long, containing eight or 
nine seeds each, numerous, 
produced in succession for 
a long time, especially 
when the first have been 




"White Dutch, Scimitar, or Case-knife Bean 
natural size). 



gathered green ; seeds white, glistening, kidney-shaped, very like 
those of the Large White Runner, but more regular in shape and 



TALL TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 



one-third less in size, seldom -f in. in length. They ripen rather late. 
The young pods may be used as green Haricots. The seed or bean, 
when used fresh from the pod, is one of the best ; it is also very 
good when dried. This is certainly one of the best varieties; the 
only objection to it is that it requires very long stakes when 
growing. The Germans cultivate a great number of sub-varieties 
of it, characterised chiefly by having broader and straighter pods ; 
but, notwithstanding numerous trials, we have never found any of 
them to surpass or even equal the variety here described ; it is the 
most tender for use and also the most productive. 

White Sallandre Improved Pole Bean. — Height not exceed- 
ing 5 ft., but very vigorous growing. Stem stout and branch- 
ing ; leaves broad, crimped, light green more or less striped 
with darker green ; flowers yellowish white. Pods about 6 in. 
long, J in. broad, flat, light green, containing six white elongated 
seeds, like those of the White Swiss Bean ^ in. to f in. long, a 
little over J in. broad and about ^ in. thick. This variety, raised 
in the vicinity of Laon, is one of our best Pole Beans, and very 
productive ; the pods are numerous, very long and well filled. 

Large White Liancourt Kidney Bean. — Stem green, slender, 
tall, reaching a height of from 7 ft. to nearly 10 ft. ; leaves large, of 
a rather dark green, not quite so much crimped as those of the 
Soissons Bean, the upper ones much smaller than the lower ones ; 
flowers white, turning yellow after impregnation ; pods longer and 
narrower than those of the Soissons Bean, slightly curved, each 
containing about five or six flat, slightly kidney-shaped seeds, 
rather irregular in form, like those of the Large White Runner (but 
of a dull or dead white, while the seeds of the latter variety glisten 
like porcelain), about | in. long, a little over ^ in. broad, and less 
than i in. thick. This is a rather hardy, strong-growing, productive, 
and half^late variety, and is chiefly grown for the ripe dried seeds. 

Chartres Red Kidney Bean. — This kind requires hardly any 
-staking, as the plant is of compact growth and seldom more than 
3 or 4 ft. in height. Leaves slightly crimped ; flowers white or 
inclining to yellow, large; pods 4 or 5 in. long, slightly curved, 
each containing about five or six flat, short seeds, which are often 
square at one or both ends, of a deep wine-lees-red colour, and 
having an almost black circle around the Jiiluni ; their average 
length is about \ in., breadth a little over \ in., and thickness less 
than \ in. They ripen early. 

Long Scarlet Pole Flageolet Bean.— Contrary to what 
happens usually, this Pole variety is of more recent introduction 
than its dwarf form, which has been cultivated and appreciated 
for a long time. It possesses the same qualities of pod and seed, 
its gain being to produce on a given surface of soil a much larger 
crop and for a longer period. 



48 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Extra Early Pole Bean.~A variety, not exceeding 5 ft. ; 
leaves large, light green, lightly crimped. Pods straight, full, green, 
often in bunches of five or six. Seed white, flat, very small. This 

Bean is remarkable for 
producing good-sized, ser- 
viceable pods at a time 
when most of the other 
pole Beans are hardly be- 
ginning to flower. It is 
at this early stage of their 
development that the pods 
ought to be used, for they 
harden quickly and are 
never altogether free from 
parchment. The seed, 
though small when quite 
dry, may be used in a fresh 
state, when the pods are 
turning yellow. 

Round White Rice 
Runner Kidney Bean. — A 
variety of moderate height, 
seldom exceeding 5 ft., and 
sometimes not much over 
4 ft. Stem very slender, 
light green; leaves medium 
sized, long, pointed, not 
much crimped, and of a 
clear green colour; flowers 
white ; pods green, narrow, 
very numerous, especially 
at the lower parts of the 
stems, where they often 
grow in clusters of fours or fives, while hardly any are produced 
near the tops of the stems ; seeds five or six in each pod, nearly 
round, with a very smooth, thin, almost transparent skin, and not 
much over ^ in. in diameter. This variety presents an appearance 
so peculiar and so difl"erent from that of most other kinds, that it 
might be readily supposed to be derived from a distinct botanical 
species, were it not that its flowers exactly resemble those of other 
Kidney Beans. It branches and spreads more than the majority 
of tall-growing varieties, forming a clump nearly 2 ft. wide, with 
weak, slender stems, which do not exhibit much of the climbing 
character. The seeds are so small and so peculiar in shape that 
it is difficult at first sight to imagine that they belong to a plant 
of the same species as the Soissons or Liancourt Beans. However, 



Extra Early Pole Bean. 



TALL TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 



as the pods are produced in very great numbers, the plant is 
productive enough. The dried seeds are of an exceedingly good 
and delicate quality, with a very thin skin, which seems to dissolve 
in cooking, on which account they are highly esteemed. The only 
defect which can be ascribed to the plant is that the pods are very 
liable to rot in wet seasons, when they trail to the ground before 
they are quite ripe. 

There are many other tall-growing varieties of Kidney Beans 
in cultivation, of which we shall only mention the following, as 
being very distinct and of special interest in various respects :— 

Harlequin Kidney Bean. — A tall-growing, rather late-ripening 
kind, with long, crimped leaves. Pods numerous, short, and curved ; 
seeds very flat, oblong, scarcely kidney-shaped, coffee-coloured, 
and irregularly streaked and furrowed with black lines. It is a 
hardy and productive variety, and may be often seen in the Central 
Market at Paris. 

Dwarf White Long-pod Kidney Bean.— A plant 4 to 5 ft. 
high ; flowers large, white ; pods exceedingly numerous, very 
straight and long, and nearly cylindrical, of a fine green colour ; 
seed oblong, nearly as thick as broad. This variety, which requires 
only very short stakes, can be highly recommended for the pro- 
duction of green Haricots. 

Tall Early Englefontaine Bean. — A rather tall variety, 
vigorous, and very early, with some resemblance to the Lian- 
court Kidney Bean, but ripening much earlier. It is the earliest 
of the tall Beans. 

Soissons Red Kidney Bean. — A tall, rather slender-stemmed, 
variety, not overburdened with leaves. Pods long, slightly curved, 
and rather narrow ; seeds nearly the same shape as those of the 
White Dutch or Case-knife Bean, and of a brilliant coral colour just 
before ripening, after which they assume a wine-lees red tint. This 
handsome kind is tolerably early, but only moderately productive. 

Partridge-Eye Kidney Bean.— A plant of medium height, 
with lank, slender stems, and lilac flowers. Pods short and flat, 
each containing four or five seeds, which are flat, shortly oval, or. 
almost square, and of a white colour finely streaked with greenish 
gray. This variety has been a long time in existence, but, being a 
poor bearer, it is very little grown. 

Old Homestead, Kentucky Wonder, Seek-no-Further 
Bean. — One of the varieties most commonly cultivated in the 
United States. A very vigorous plant, growing as high as 6J ft. ; 
early, and very productive. Pods very abundant, long, curved. 
Seeds slightly flattened, oval, and dark brown. 

Southern Prolific Bean. — Much less tall than the last named, 
with shorter, almost straight pods, and smaller seeds. Also a 
little later. 



4 



50 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Red Speckled Cut Short or Corn Hill Bean. — A late variety, 
with short cylinder-shaped straight pods, the seed almost square, 
and streaked with red-brown. In the United States it is often 
sown along with maize, which serves as a support for it. 

Saint-Seurin Kidney Bean. — A very vigorous and rapid kind, 
with large, broad, deep-green leaves, and lilac flowers. Pods very 
numerous, almost straight, marked when very young with violet 
streaks ; seeds flat, kidney-shaped, salmon marbled and spotted 
with black. It is hardy, very productive, and early, and is well 
adapted for rather warm climates. 

II. — Dwarf Varieties of Tough-podded Kidney Beans 

Dwarf White Flageolet, or White Canterbury Kidney 

Bean. — The best known and most esteemed of the Tough-podded 
Kidney Beans. The name Flageolet Bean is given to varieties 
more or less similar to this, and the seeds themselves are known as 
Flageolet Beans for culinary purposes. It is a low-growing thick-set 
variety, with a stout stem, not more than i ft. or 14 in. high ; leaves 
smooth or slightly pitted, of medium size, and deep-green ; flowers 
white, with a faint tinge of nankeen yellow ; pods numerous, rather 
flat and somewhat curved, and frequently irregular in breadth 
through the abortion of some of the seeds. These, usually four or 
five in a pod, are white, flat, and kidney-shaped, nearly | in. long, 
over i in. broad, and less than J in. thick. In cases where only 
one variety of Kidney Bean can be cultivated, a better selection 
cannot be made than this one, for the young pods may be gathered 

and used as well as the 
seeds. The seeds are 
sometimes dried but are 
best when fresh. 

Dwarf White Long- 
pod Kidney Bean. — 
More vigorous, with larger 
leaves and greater length 
of pods than the preced- 
ing. The seed is white 
when ripe, and somewhat 
larger than that of the 
common Flageolet ; the 
young pods are long and 
thin and very tender. 

Extra Early Dwarf Etampes Kidney Bean Extra Earlv Dwarf 

(i natural size). Etampes Kidney Bean. 

. — This new variety, which was raised by M. Bonnemain, is a 
decided improvement on the White Flageolet, and is distinguished 




DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 51 



from it in a marked degree by its leaves, which are large, somewhat 
crimped, and deep green. The flowers, pods, and seeds do not 
perceptibly differ from those of the White Flageolet, but the plant 
is earlier by five or six days, 
and is a truly valuable variety, 
most probably destined to 
gradually supersede the other 
in cultivation. The seeds are 
white, even when the pods are 
green. 

Nettle-leaved Canterbury 
Kidney Bean. — This variety 
is ver)^ distinct from the Com- 
mon White Flageolet, and is a 
dwarf, hardy, early, and pro- 
ductive kind, easily recognised 

by its leaves, which are small, Nettle-leaved Canterbury Kidney Bean 

of a dark, almost black, green, ^^^"^^^ ^^^^)- 

and finely crimped on their entire surface. The small size of this 
plant renders it very suitable for frame culture, and its hardiness 
makes it equally good for field cultivation, as it is usually grown 
about Paris. It ripens nearly at the same time as the White 
Flageolet, and its chief merit consists in resisting disease and 
unfavourable weather, and in its being easily distinguished by its 
foliage from all other varieties. 

Matchless Dwarf Bean. — In clumps about i ft. in height ; 
stem green, branching ; leaves medium-sized, light green, slightly 

veined and crimped ; flowers 
white. Pods 4 to 6 in. long, 
flat, produced in pairs, each 
containing six seeds, which 
resemble those of the Long 
White Canterbury Bean, but 
smaller and marked with 
two dots near the Jiiluin \ 
they are a little over \ in. 
long, by about \ in. broad, 
and \ in. thick. An early 
and prolific variety, to be 
recommended for the pro- 
duction of young green 
pods for the table. 

Inexhaustible Bean. — 
Quite distinct from all the other dwarf Flageolet Beans, this variety 
is easily recognised at first sight by the growth of its flowers, which 
rise in stout bunches above the foliage. The pods are long, green, 





Inexhaustible Dwarf Bean. 



52 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



narrow, and tender, and are produced in constant succession, 
becoming the more abundant the more they are picked. The seed 
is Hke that of the White Flageolet. 

Bonnemain Dwarf Kidney Bean. — This variety was raised 
some years ago from seed by M. Bonnemain, secretary to the Etampes 

Horticultural Society, and 
we class it among the 
Flageolets because it re- 
sembles them in size, earli- 
ness, and in having white 
seeds ; but that it is totally 
distinct from all the other 
varieties can be seen at a 
glance. It forms very low- 
growing, thick-set clumps, 
with leaves of a pale gray- 
green and white flowers ; 
pods straight, almost cylin- 
drical, shorter and more 
slender than those of the 
Kidney Bean ; seeds white, 
egg - shaped, thicker, and 
with less of the kidney 
outline than those of the 
White Flageolet. They are 
green until they ripen. The 
• ^ rrr-j . .1 grcat mcrlt of this variety 

Bonnemain Dwarf Kidney Bean (plant, ^; • . • h i 

pods, i; and seed, full natural size). COnsiStS m itS Unequalled 

earliness, the seeds being 
ripe for shelling five or six days sooner than those of the Early 
Etampes Flageolet, which was at one time considered the earliest 
of all. We have obtained very satisfactory results from growing 
the Bonnemain Kidney Bean in the open air, while its small size 
and great earliness make it most suitable for frame culture. It is 
certain to become one of the most esteemed varieties for producing 
an early crop. 

Long Green-seeded Flageolet Bean. — The first green seeds 
of the Flageolet Beans may have originated by the mere accident 
of some one pulling a few pods before their complete maturity and 
allowing them to dry in the shade. However, it is indisputable 
that by careful observation and selection the Paris growers have 
succeeded in obtaining certain strains in which the green colora- 
tion of the seed not only exists, but has moreover a tendency 
to last, given appropriate treatment. We are going to give a 
description of the more interesting of these strains, all of which 
are derived more or less directly from the original green-seeded 




DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 53 



Flageolet Bean, the pods of which are of a darker colour outside, 
and the seed being permeated throughout with a larger amount of 
green colouring matter, which latter 
is of a more durable nature than 
is found in any other of the Tough- 
podded Kidney Beans. 

Chevrier Dwarf Flag-eolet 
Bean. — A distinct variety, differing 
from the Green-seeded Flageolet 
almost as much as that differs 
from the White Flageolet, so intense 
is the green colour of the seed. 
Sent out only a few years ago, it 
has quickly become very popular 
among the growers in the vicinity 
of Paris. 

Wonder ot France Dwarf 
Bean.— The Chevrier Bean, like 
the White Flageolet Bean, has the 
serious defect of being very much 
exposed to the attacks of rust. 
This evil is considerably lessened 
in some of the later strains, the 
first of which in date, the Marvel 
of Paris, is a fine variety with 
numerous, long, straight, beautiful 
deep green pods and well-coloured 
seeds. It differs but little from 
that of the Chevrier Bean in these 
characteristics. 

King of the Green Bean— Of remarkable vigour in growth, and 
somewhat taller than Wonder of France, though not quite as early. 
It is a hardy plant, suited for field culture, and wonderfully produc- 
tive. It is one of the best for 
the production of dry green 
Flageolets ; for not only is the 
skin of the seed very thin, but 
the bushes shed the whole of 
their foliage as soon as the 
pods are full and ripe, so that 
the plants, if pulled up then, 
may be easily stacked at once. 

Dwarf Flageolet Triumph 
of the Frames. — Very dwarf 
and compact, suited for cultivation under glass, not exceeding 8 in. 
in height. Leaves of average size, pretty smooth ; pods very 




Wonder of France Flageolet Bean. 




Dwarf Triumph of the Frames Bean. 



54 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



numerous, round, well filled, containing six to eight seeds each. The 
seeds are of the Flageolet shape, about f in. long by about half as 
broad, and about ^ in. thick. Owing to its small size and great 
earliness this variety can be recommended for growing in frames 
for an early crop. The seeds are bright green, and they keep their 
colour if the pods are pulled at the right moment and dried in the 
same way as the Chevrier Beans. 

Green-seeded Bagnolet Bean. — A very branching dwarf 
variety, remarkable for its vigorous growth and productiveness. 
Foliage dark green, very abundant. The tufts are compact, erect, 
with numerous straight pods of vivid green. The seed is small and 
very green. Though not as early as Wonder of France, it is much 
more productive. It is especially suited for producing green pods 
or Haricots verts, of which it produces an enormous quantity. If 
allowed to ripen the green colour of the seed gives it an increased 
value in comparison with white and coloured Beans. 

Long Yellow, or Pale Dun, Flageolet Bean. — A vigorous 
very dwarf variety, about i8 in. high, with large broad gray-green 
leaves, somewhat plaited but not much crimped. Flowers white ; 
pods large, long, straight, and broad, edible as Haricots verts, rather 
pale in colour ; seeds oblong, very slightly kidney-shaped, about 
f in. long, a little over \ in. broad, and about the same in thickness, 
uniform chamois colour, excepting the hiluin, which is white, 
surrounded by a circle of a rather dark-brown. The seeds are 
commonly eaten fresh, before they are fully grown, and they ripen 
rather earlier than those of the white-seeded kind. The plant is 
also much more productive. 

Dwarf Long Scarlet Flageolet Kidney Bean. — (American 
Red, or Scarlet, Flageolet). — A vigorous kind, about the same 
height as the preceding one, but a much darker green, with long, 
narrow, pointed leaves and rosy-white flowers. Pods long and 
straight, yielding very good green Haricots ; seeds f in. or more 
long, over \ in. broad, and about ^ in. thick, straight, or slightly 
kidney-shaped, nearly cylindrical, and a wine-lees red colour. This 
variety is one of the hardiest and most productive. It is chiefly 
grown for its seeds, which are of fine quality when dried. It also 
produces long straight pods, which are excellent eaten as such. 

The Crimson Wonder and the Canadian Wo7tder Bean are sub- 
varieties of this kind, differing from it but slightly by the shape 
of the seed. 

Fame of Vitry Flageolet Bean. — Earlier and smaller 
in size than the preceding kind, from which it has sprung ; 
stem hght green, between 15 and 16 in. in length; leaves 
broad, and pointed ; flowers pale lilac. Pods about 6 in. long, 
generally solitary, and containing usually six seeds, resembling 
those of the Long Scarlet Flageolet Bean, but smaller. An early 



DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 55 




Bouscat Early Long-pod Forcing Bean. 



and prolific variety, to be recommended for the fine green pods 
{Haricots verts) it produces, and which are much appreciated on 
the market. 

Bouscat Early Long-pod Forcing Bean. — In general appear- 
ance this variety resembles 
the Black Negro Bean, but 
is more vigorous, more 
productive, and also has 
longer pods, and the colour 
of the seed is also different. 
Plant dwarf, between 11 
and 12 in. high ; stems 
vivid green, leaves large, 
pointed, of a lustrous dark 
green colour ; flowers 
white. Pods light green, 
long, cylindrical, produced 
in pairs or in clusters of 
three ; seed light brown, 
less than | in. long, about \ in. broad, and about as thick. This 
variety is well suited for forcing under glass, but it succeeds also 
in the open ground in sheltered places where Beans are sown for 
an early crop. 

Scarlet Flageolet Wax Bean. — A vigorous yet persistently 
dwarf variety, 16 to 18 in. high. Leaves very large, uncrimped, 
and light or yellow green ; flowers lilac ; pods long, broad, straight 

or slightly curved, quite 
yellow (like those of the 
Algerian Kidney Beans), 
but rather flattened and 
pointed (like those of the 
Tough - podded Kidney 
Beans) ; seeds almost 
exactly like those of the 
Canadian Wonder in 
shape and colour. This 
is a very fine and distinct 
kind, but, unfortunately, 
its pods are not free from 
membrane, at least when 
ripening ; but gathered 
before the seeds are too 




Scarlet Flageolet Wax Bean. 



much grown, they are very tender and fleshy. 

Black-blue Seeded Dwarf Bean. — A dwarf, rather late variety; 
plant erect and vigorous, of good habit, not exceeding 20 in. in 
height. Stem stout, light green ; leaves dark green, smooth, 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



slightly veined ; flowers lilac, m bunches raised above the foliage. 



Pods very long, flat, light 
J in. broad, and less than 



green, about 5 to 7 in. long, a little over 



in. 




Black-blue Seeded Dwarf Bean. 



thick, generally produced in pairs, 
and containing from six 
to eight long bluish black 
seeds. A disease-resisting, 
productive variety, well 
suited for growing for the 
market. Owing to the 
colour of the seed, it is 
used exclusively as a 
z&^^'^iKfiH^lllffllMSlSSlWl^ Haricot Bean. 

'^^^A^^fflfiwiiS?^^^ Negro Long-pod, or 

Black Canterbury, Kid- 
ney Bean. — This is a 
very distinct variety, and 
one of the best edible- 
podded varieties. Leaves 
large, not much crimped, 
deep- green, usually hori- 
zontal and- not pendent ; 
flowers lilac ; pods slender, 
very straight, and nearly cylindrical. The plant is remarkable for 
the length of the young pods. The seeds are of moderate size, being 
between J and J in. long, and nearly J in. broad and thick ; they 
are entirely black, on which account they are not used in cookery, 
and the plant is only grown for the sake of the green pods. 

Dwarf Extra Early Black Prince Bean. — A truly dwarf 
and early variety, compat in growth, with numerous short stems, 
broad leaves, and a great 
number of flowers ; dis- 
tinguished by the intense 
green colour of the whole 
plant, and especially of 
the pods, which keep 
their dark green colour 
up to complete maturity. 
The pods are produced 
in abundance, of medium 
size ; the seed is black, 
very small, flat, thin, and 
oblong, it is about J in. 
long, i in. broad, and a 
little less in thickness. The Black Prince Bean is unexcelled for 
producing green pods for the table. Its dark green colour proclaims 
its descent from one of the forms derived from the Green Flageolet 




Black Prince Bean. 



DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 57 



or the Chevrier Bean. The seed is of less importance in varieties 
specially grown for their pods, but this origin has had a most 
favourable influence in imparting to the pods that healthy and 
agreeable dark green appearance so much valued in the market. 

Dwarf Belgian Black Negro Kidney Bean. — A very dwarf 
early kind, chiefly used for forcing in frames. When grown true 
to name, it seldom exceeds 10 in. or 
I ft. in height, and forms a small, close, 
compact tuft or clump. The leaves 
are medium size, rather pointed, not 
much crimped, and a pale wan green. 
Pods straight, very green while 
young, afterwards slightly streaked 
with violet ; seeds rather small, 
slightly kidney-shaped, not very flat, 

and seldom over about | in. long, of ^'""^"^V? nftu'JafsklT ^""^^ 
a fine black colour, with a white natura size). 

hilum. Like the preceding variety, owing to the colour of its 
seeds it is only grown for the green pods. 

Dwarf Black Hermitage Bean. — A sub-variety of the pre- 
ceding, having all its characteristics, but slightly taller ; the pod 
is also longer, about 5 in. in length, and the seeds are somewhat 
larger, but they are the same shape and colour. A variety much 
appreciated by the growers of Provence. 

Chocolate Dwarf Kidney Bean.— Another very dwarf and early 
kind, with small long leaves, not much crimped, and light green. 
Flowers lilac ; pods rather short, and curved, often to a semicircle; 
seeds flat, somewhat kidney -shaped, \ in. or more long, varying 
from a chamois to deep slaty gray, and often both colours together. 
This variety is chiefly remarkable for its earliness, and is well 
adapted for growing under a frame for an early crop of ripe seeds. 

The Comie de Vougy Kidney Bean, Mohawk, and the Dwarf 
Free-bearer, which are now seldom grown, are closely allied to the 
Chocolate Kidney Bean. They are, however, not so early, and on 
that account not so valuable. 

Dwarf Yellow Hundredfold Kidney Bean. — A dwarf and 
very hardy variety, of compact growth, with medium-sized slightly 
puckered leaves, deep green tinged with gray. Flowers white, 
changing to yellow ; pods rather short, numerous, each containing 
four or five straight, almost cylindrical seeds, which are sometimes 
square at the ends, and dark yellow verging on brown. This is 
a very productive kind, and is mostly cultivated in the east of 
France, where it is often grown in the vineyards. 

Early Dwarf Chalandray Kidney Bean. — An exceedingly 
dwarf and early variety, forming a compact clump seldom over 
10 in. high. Leaves small, long, and bright green ; flowers rose or 




58 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



pale lilac ; pods slender, long, and slightly curved ; seeds small, 
almost cylindrical, with very little of the kidney shape, about h in. 
long, and a light^ mahogany-brown in colour. This kind is almost 
as early as the Etampes Flageolet, and is especially well adapted 
for forcing. Both green pods and fresh seeds may be obtained 
from it. 

Dwarf Yellow Extra Early Kidney Bean. — A dwarf plant, 
10 or 12 in. high ; stem light green ; leaves not very numerous, 

gray - green, becoming soon 
yellow. Pods 5 in. long, flat, 
light green, produced in 
bunches of four or six at 
the end of the stems. Seed 
yellow, about ^ in. long and 
^ in. broad and thick, usually 
five per pod. This variety is 
the earliest of all the Beans 
with coloured seed, and is 
well suited for growing under 
frames. Its pods are of excel- 
lent quality as Haricots verts. 

Dwarf Barbes Bean. — 
This variety comes very near 
the Yellow Hundredfold Bean, 
but is taller and more vigorous. 
The seed is also larger, longer, 
and a clearer yellow, nearly that of the Yellow Canadian Bean: 
It is straight in shape, cylindrical, and often squared at both ends. 
The pods, like those of the Yellow Hundredfold Bean, are well 
filled, very fleshy, and may be eaten almost up to the time of 
their full development. In the south of France and Algeria it 
is much grown for producing green Haricots. 

Royal Dwarf White Kidney Bean. — Under the name of 
" Swiss Kidney Beans " are grouped a certain number of v^arieties 
which are almost identical in habit of growth, and present hardly 
any difl"erence except in the colour of the seed. In Italy these 
varieties are named Fagiuoli cannelliiii, and at Bordeaux they are 
known under the general name of Haricot Capuci?ie. Almost all 
have the bad habit of sending out, above the leaves and flowers, a 
slender barren stem, of greater or less length, which never twines. 
This variety sometimes has this drawback, but possesses some very 
good qualities also, especially great productiveness and hardiness ; 
very suitable for field culture. It has large and very rough, dark 
green coloured, and sometimes finely crimped leaves ; flowers large 
and white ; pods long and numerous, each containing five or six 
seeds, which are white, straight, almost cylindrical, often flattened 




Dwarf Yellow Extra Early Kidney Bean. 



DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 59 



at one end (whence its French name of Haricot Lzngot). They 
are usually about | in. long, and something over \ in. in breadth 
and thickness. They can be eaten dried, but the skin is rather 
thick. 

Early Dwarf White Bean. — A very pretty sub-variety of 
the preceding one, but free from the long sterile stems referred 
to above. It is also a few days earlier. The plant is of a 
dwarfer habit, more even in growth, and also more regular in 
earliness. The pods and the seeds do not show any marked 
difference. 

Black Speckled Kidney Bean {Haricot de Bagnolet). — A 
kind much grown about Paris for its green pods. As a general 
rule, it does not exhibit 
the objectionable habit of 
growth alluded to in the 
description of the Royal 
Dwarf White Kidney Bean, 
and, in this respect, it is 
better than most of the 
Swiss Kidney Beans. It 
grows 14 to 16 in. high and 
has large deep green leaves, 
not much crimped, and lilac 
flowers; pods straight, long, 
very green, and, when young, 
almost cylindrical ; seeds 
straight, long, rounded at 

both ends, nearly as thick 

as broad, black-violet varie- Black Speckled Kidney Bean. 

gated with nankeen yellow 

streaks on about one-third of their surface, these markings being 
sometimes reduced to a few light-coloured spots on a nearly black 
ground. There is also a white-seeded variety, which is identical in 
all other respects. 

Nettle-leaved Bagnolet Bean. — A sub-variety of the pre- 
ceding kind, about 16 in. in height. Stem light green, very branch- 
ing. It differs from the Black Speckled Bean by being a little 
earlier, and by the leaves, which are smaller, much crimped, veined, 
and of a lighter green ; flowers white instead of lilac ; the pods are 
longer, about 4J in., and flat. The seed resembles exactly that 
of the Bagnolet Bean ; each pod contains six. 

Dwarf Parisian Bean. — A dwarf plant of vigorous early 
growth and rapid development, with dark green leaves and lilac 
flowers ; pods straight, very long, marked with black streaks, 
which disappear in the cooking. The seed is flat, kidney-shaped, 
spotted dark purple on chamois. It is a good variety for the 




6o 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Dwarf Parisian Bean. 



kitchen-garden and also for field culture, where it yields abun- 
dantly about ten days earlier than the Black Speckled Bagnolet 

Bean and like sorts — a 
great advantage from the 
grower's point of view. 

Glory of Lyons Bean. 
— Though resembling 
somewhat the Bagnolet 
Bean, it differs from that 
in some respects. The 
leaves are larger, and 
gray-green ; the pods are 
broader and flatter ; the 
seed is slightly smaller, 
thin, almost straight, and 
speckled yellow on brown. 
The chief difference, how- 
ever, is in being eight to 
ten days earlier than the Bagnolet Bean, for which reason, though 
less productive, it is preferred by market gardeners. 

Dwarf Marvel of Paris Bean. — A field variety, rather early, 
very vigorous, hardy, productive, above all remarkable for the 
length and slenderness of its pods, which are intensely green 
and almost cylindrical. The seed is thick, dark purple streaked 
with yellow; it is generally about ij in. long, and half that 
breadth, and less than i in. thick. This variety is most probably 
derived from the old Bagnolet Bean. The seed has about 
the same appearance ; it 
is, however, somewhat 
smaller and shorter, re- 
sembling in size that of 
the Solitary Bean. 

Sion House Dwarf 
Kidney Bean. — This is 
a variety for field culture 
and is hardy, early, 
and productive. Leaves 
numerous, of medium size, 
slightly puckered, and a 
rather deep green ; flowers 
rose - coloured or lilac ; 
pods long and straight. 
The shape of the seed 
resembles that of the 
Swiss Kidney Beans, but the colour, like that of the Cranberry 
Bean, is flesh colour finely dotted with light red or lilac. Although 




Glory of Lyons Bean. 



DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 6i 

true enough to its .dwarf character, this kind forms less compact 
clumps than the Swiss Kidney Beans, and. the stems are usually 
long and semi-trailing. It is not very particular about quality of 
soil, and requires very little attention, on which account it is one 
of the kinds which are most frequently sown in vineyards or 
amongst other crops. 

Dwarf Emperor of Russia Bean. — A dwarf, half-early variety, 
rather compact in growth, very productive, with large slightly 
crimped leaves ; pods numer- 
ous, slender and fleshy; seeds 
long and narrow, and light 
chocolate-brown with deeper- 
coloured stripes ; less than 
f in. long, about i in. broad, 
and about ^ in. thick. An 
excellent variety for the pro- 
duction of green pods for 
the table, especially in warm 
climates. The seed may be 
gathered when fully ripe 
without being liable to be- 
come stained, as is the case 
with most other varieties. 

Dwarf Red Speckled 
Kidney Bean {Haricot suisse 
rouge). — A vigorous, branch- 
ing variety, which does not 
usually produce the sterile 
stem before mentioned. 
Leaves stiff, not very large 
or numerous, smooth, and 
slightly gray - green ; flowers 
lilac or rosy ; seeds long, 

nearly straight, marbled with Dwarf Emperor of Russia Bean. 

spots of a wine - lees red, 

which sometimes form longitudinal streaks on a pale red ground. 
This is a very productive kind, and the dried seeds are much 
esteemed. A variety cultivated in America, under the name of 
Improved Goddard or Boston Favourite, presents many points of 
similarity to this. 

Besides the varieties of Swiss Kidney Beans which we have 
just described, the following also are in cultivation : — 

Dwarf Blood Speckled Kidney Bean. — This variety bears a 
striking resemblance to the preceding one, both in habit and 
foliage. The flowers are a pale rose ; seeds similar in shape to 
those of the Black Speckled Kidney Bean, but a deep red, dotted 




62 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



with white or salmon colour. For some years past this variety has 
often been called The Indian Kidney Bean." 

Dwarf Light Dun-coloured Kidney Bean. — A vigorous 
variety, forming strong clumps, not producing the barren stem 
of the Swiss Kidney Beans, but sometimes bearing clusters of 
pods above the foliage. The leaves are large, slightly crimped, 
and gray-green ; pods long, straight, nearly cylindrical, each con- 
taining five or six seeds of a light chamois colour, darkening with 
age, and brown around the hilum. 

Other varieties of Swiss Kidney Bean are the Large Gray 
Swiss, the seed of which is yellow-white, streaked with black ; the 
Bourvalais Swiss, with white seed marbled with light violet ; the 
Red Ingot, the seed of which is paler than that of the Long 
Spotted French Bean and not marbled. Among the Swiss Kidney 
Beans may also be included the variety named the Giant Dwarf, 
which is remarkable for the width of its leaves and the length of 
its pods ; but in cultivation it is now superseded by the improved 
variety of the Royal Dwarf White Kidney Bean. 

Russian Dwarf Kidney Bean. — A very good dwarf variety, 
equal to any other for producing green pods. It is a very vigorous 
plant, with exceedingly broad leaves, finely crimped, dark and 
rather dull green in colour. Flowers lilac ; pods very straight, 
and remarkably long and handsome. The seed, which in shape 
and colour has some resemblance to that of the Dwarf Light Dun- 
coloured Kidney Bean, is easily distinguished from all other kinds 
by the dull appearance of the skin. There is a sub-variety of this 
plant which has small black seeds, and produces pods that are 
perhaps longer and more cylindrical than those of the ordinary 
kind. There are often six, or even seven, seeds in a pod, and as 
each seed is nearly f in. long, and lies in the pod at some distance 
from the seed which is next to it, the length of the pods is easily 
accounted for. 

Spread-Eagle, or Dove, Kidney Bean. — Another dwarf tough- 
podded variety, which appears to belong to the section of the Swiss 
Kidney Beans, and grows to the height of i6 in. or more. Leaves 
light green, broad, long, and finely crimped ; flowers white, and 
rather large ; pods straight and long ; seed very full, rather kidney- 
shaped, and quite white, except near the hilum, where it is marked 
with a black or brown blotch, the outline of which has some like- 
ness to a bird with extended wings. Hence its most common 
names of " Spread-Eagle " and " Dove " Kidney Beans. 

The Shah Bean. — A very vigorous plant, truly dwarf, 
because it does not send up any twining shoots. It grows into 
large erect bushes, not exceeding 15J to 19J in. in height; the 
leaves are very large and broad, dark green, smooth, not crimped ; 
the lilac-coloured flowers are succeeded by fine green, long, straight 



DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 63 



pods, much superior to those of the Black Flageolet Kidney Bean, or 
even of the Russian Kidney Bean. The pods are not only very long, 
but also very thin and perfectly round. The seed is black, narrow,' 
straight, or slightly curved into kidney shape, somewhat flattened, 
about ^ in. long, about 
J in. broad, and less in 
thickness ; hilum white. 
Judged by its vegeta- 
tion this variety belongs 
clearly to the series of 
the Swiss Kidney Beans, 
but it may be said to 
excel them all by the 
length and beauty of its 
pods. Of all the sorts 
grown it is the best for 
producing choice Haricot 
Beans. It is too tall to 
be grown under glass, 
and is much better suited 
for outdoor culture. 

Dwarf Red Orleans 
Kidney Bean. — A vari- 
ety which is usually true 
to its dwarf character, 
but occasionally runs at 
the top. Stems thick 
and short, forming a 
rather broad, compact 
clump ; leaves stiff, medium-sized, crimped, a glistening green ; 
flowers violet ; pods rather numerous, short and slightly curved, 
each containing four or five rather small egg-shaped seeds, which 
are less than \ in. long, of a deep, brown-red colour, with a black 
circle around the hilum. This variety is cultivated in the vine- 
yards of Orleanais, just as the Yellow Hundredfold and the 
Turkish Kidney Bean are in the vineyards of Burgundy. It is 
sometimes erroneously confused with the Chartres Red Kidney 
Bean, which is a tall-growing kind, with seeds of a flatter shape 
and more squared at the ends. 

Dwarf Soissons Kidney Bean. — A variety which is true to 
its dwarf character, and also early, but only a moderate bearer. 
Plant low-growing and thick-set. Leaves rather broad, smooth, 
and dark glistening green.^ It does not produce the sterile stem 
of the Swiss Kidney Beans, but clusters of pods are sometimes 
borne above the foliage. Pods usually curved and of irregular 
width, owing to the unequal size of the seeds, which are much 




The Shah Dwarf Bean. 



64 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Dwarf Green Scissons Bean. 



smaller than those of the Large White Runner, and are more like 
those of the Liancourt Kidney Bean, being white, rather flat, 

and moderately kidney- 
shaped. 

Dwarf Green- 
seeded Soissons Bean. 
— Resembles the pre- 
ceding but is a little 
earlier, and its leaves 
are a darker green. 
Pods curved, about J in. 
long, a little less in 
breadth, usually pro- 
duced in pairs, and con- 
taining six large green 
seeds, a little over J in. 
in length, rather more 
than J in. broad, and 
i in. thick. The method 
practised for drying the seed so that it may keep its green colour 
is the same as for the other green-seeded kinds. 

Early Dwarf Scimitar Kidney Bean. — This very distinct 
and valuable variety differs completely from the old Dwarf Case- 
knife, which is now no longer cultivated. It is a low-growing 
and very thick-set plant, with broad leaves, slightly crimped, and 
dark lustrous green. Flowers white ; pods long, broad, straight, 
and well filled. The plant comes into flower almost about the 
same time as the White 
Flageolet, and its earliness, 
and also the fineness of its 
seeds, render it a valuable 
kind for forcing under a 
frame. The seeds are 
broad and well filled, nearly 
f in. long, over ^ in. broad, 
and i in. thick, pure white, 
and, like the skin, some- 
times slightly wrinkled. 

Common White Flat 
Bean, — An ancient vari- 
ety, still used in certain 
countries for field culture. 
May be classed also with 
the Runner Beans, because 
the branches, though they do not climb well, run to a considerable 
length, and trail on the ground. The foliage is abundant, rather 




Early Dwarf Scimitar Kidney Bean 
(|- natural size). 



DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 65 



folded, leaves inclined to be small, and a dark green ; flowers white ; 
pods short, with four or five medium-sized seeds, similar in shape 
almost to those of the Liancourt Bean, glossy and a pure white. 

Common Round White Bean. — Like the last-named, very 
irregular in habit, and almost entitled to be called a Runner Bean. 
A slender light-green stem, about 3 ft. 3 in. high ; leaves a decided 
green and smooth ; flowers white ; pods light green, not long, and 
containing generally six white rounded seeds. In spite of its faulty 
habit, this variety is commonly used in field culture for the sake of 
its seed. A variety cultivated in Canada, under the name of Pea 
Bean, and in the United States, under the name of Navy White 
or Boston Small Bean, difl"ers very little from the Common Round 
White Bean. 

Dwarf White Rice Kidney Bean.— A dwarf but remarkably 
branching kind, forming clumps over 2^ ft. wide. Leaves very 
numerous, rather pointed, medium-sized or small, and light green ; 
pods short, very numerous, containing five or six seeds ; seeds 
white, egg-shaped, nearly f in. long, ^ in. broad, and about the 
same thickness, with an exceedingly thin skin ; of remarkably 
good quality, and consequently much used in the dried state. 
Although its seeds are small, it is very productive, but is rather 
late, in consequence of which the seeds are sometimes spotted 
and blemished if the autumn is cold and damp. There is a very 
small-seeded variety of this plant, which produces vast numbers of 
pods, and is known as the Dwarf Hungarian Bean, or the Hungarian 
Rice Kidney Bean. (Sjn. Haricot Cointesse de Chambord.) 

Dwarf White Bagnolet. — A handsome, vigorous, hardy kind, 
which in habit of growth is rather like the Black Speckled Kidney 
Bean, but differs from it entirely in the seed, which is white, rather 
flat, and kidney-shaped, and is good for use either dried or in the 
green state. 

Imperatrice Dwarf Bean. — In appearance and foliage this kind 
resembles the Swiss Kidney Beans, but it has broader and slightly 
curved pods. Seed large, full, kidney-shaped, and remarkable for 
a large deep red blotch encircling the hiluin, and extending over 
about one-third of the surface of the seed, the remainder being 
pure white thickly dotted with small red specks, which appear in 
bold relief on the white ground. 

Mexican Dwarf Kidney Bean. — One of the earliest of all 
the Tough-podded Kidney Beans, of low and scantily branching 
growth, with medium-sized leaves, deep green tinged with gray. 
Flowers very pale lilac ; pods short and rather broad, each con- 
taining four or five egg-shaped, slightly flattened seeds, salmon- 
rose, with a brown circle round the hilum. 

Neapolitan Kidney Bean. — Under this name are grouped 
several varieties with white, egg-shaped seeds, like those which are 

5 



66 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



imported in large quantities from the south of Italy and from Sicily; 
but it is more a commercial name than that of any special variety. 
Round Yellow, or Six-Weeks, Dwarf Kidney Bean.— A 

low-growing, thick-set kind, with slightly grayish and elongated 
leaves. Flowers pale lilac or rose ; pods rather broad and short, 
each containing four or five egg-shaped seeds, about J in. long, and 
of a uniform deep yellow colour, except about the hilum, where 
they are of a darker shade, closely approaching brown. A remark- 
ably early and very productive variety. 

Solitary Prolific Kidney Bean, or Bush Haricot. — A very 
branching plant, which forms a strong clump, does not produce a 
barren stem like the Swiss Kidney Beans, and attains a height of 
i6 to 20 in. Leaves rather small, very numerous, long, pointed, 
and deep green ; flowers pale lilac. The seed somewhat resembles 
that of the Black Speckled Kidney Bean, but is seldom more 
than \ in. long, and is of a pronounced violet colour. The chief 
merit of this variety is that it forms a strong clump and branches 
very much, in consequence of which some cultivators sow each seed 
separately, instead of putting several into the same hole or pocket. 

Dwarf Green Vaudreuil Bean. — Resembles the Chevrier Bean 
by its seeds being of a bright green colour, which colour they keep 
when dry, if the plants are pulled before complete maturity. It is 
hardier than the Flageolet Beans, and differs from them in the 
pods being rounded and straight, and also in the seed being short, 
thick, and almost square. 

Plein de la Fleche. — A good variety, of vigorous, thick-set 
growth, and resembling both the Black Speckled (H, Bagnolef) and 
the Solitary Bush Kidney Bean ; the former in its habit of growth, 
and the latter in its seed. 

The following varieties are of English or American origin : — 

Early Light Dun and Early Dark Dun. — These two kinds 
bear some resemblance to the Yellow Flageolet, but their seed is 
uniform in colour, without any circle around the hilum. The seeds 
of the two kinds are distinguished by those of the first being a 
lighter brown than those of the second. 

Early Rachel.— A dwarf and productive kind, with dark- 
brown, elongated seeds, slightly spotted with pale brown or yellow. 
It has some resemblance to the Chocolate Kidney Bean. 

MacMillan's American Prolific. — Somewhat resembles the Sion 
House Kidney Bean in its general appearance and in the colour of 
the seed, but is more compact in growth, forming denser clumps. 

The Monster. — A dwarf and exceedingly vigorous-growing 
variety, with enormous leaves, resembling in their amplitude those 
of the most highly developed Swiss Kidney Beans. Pods of medium 
size, straight ; seeds black, longer, and more curved than those of 
the Belgian Negro Bean. A tolerably productive, half-early kind. 



DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 67 



New Mammoth Negro.— The pods and seeds of this kind are 
rather Hke those of the Negro Long-pod, but in its mode of growth 
and the colour of its leaves it bears a greater resemblance to the 
Belgian Negro. It is not so good a kind for green Haricots as the 
Negro Long-pod. 

Newington Wonder. — This dwarf variety can hardly be 
recommended for any other purpose than frame culture for the 
production of seeds, as its pods are too short for green Haricots. 
The seed is of a light yellow colour and remarkably small. 

Early Mohawk Bean. — Very hardy ; pods long, flat, straight. 
One of the Beans most commonly cultivated in the United States, 
and as often grown under glass as in the open air. The seed is 
pale green, marbled with dark violet or brown. 

Best of All Bean. — A vigorous, ramified, fairly productive half- 
early kind ; the pods long, fleshy, intense green, becoming lighter 
at maturity, and marked with bright red shades ; seed pale yellow 
stippled with red. 

Currie's Rust-proof Wax Bean. — Resembles the Dwarf 
Flageolet Wax Bean, except that it has black seeds. 

Davis Kidney Wax. — A species of Dwarf Flageolet Wax 
Bean, hardy and productive, with long yellow straight pods, not 
free from parchment, and requiring to be pulled when young. Seed 
long white kidney-shaped. 

Emperor William. — Resembles in foliage and growth the 
Dwarf Scimitar White Bean, with rather flatter pods. The seed 
is white, flat, and rather kidney-shaped. 

Ne Plus Ultra Bean. — Dwarf ; leaves light green, flowers 
white tinged with pink. Seeds resemble those of the Yellow 
Hundred to One, but the pods are longer. 

New Bountiful Kidney Bean. — Seed like that of the Long 
Yellow Flageolet, but the growth of the plant is freer, and the 
foliage lighter, and the pods more whitened. 

Stringless Green-pod Bean. — Half-early, vigorous, and pro- 
ductive, much esteemed in the United States. Pods long, fleshy, 
slightly curving, pale green. Seed a deep madder-colour. 

Sutton's Prolific Negro Dwarf Bean. — A good variety of the 
Negro Black or Dwarf Belgian, but with longer pods. 

Osborn's Early Forcing. — A good dwarf kind, of dense 
branching growth, producing large numbers of medium-sized pods, 
each containing four or five short bulging seeds, deep-brown, with 
' some spots of light yellow. 

Refugee, or Thousand to One.— A rather compact-growing 
variety, with remarkably long, straight, smooth, dark-coloured 
leaves, and violet flowers. Pods straight and rounded ; seed 
hardly kidney-shaped, almost cylindrical, light yellow, variegated 
with wine-lees-red markings. 



68 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Extra Early Refugee is bushier and earlier than the type, 
and the foh'age is paler green. 

Sir Joseph Paxton. — A small-sized, very early, dwarf kind, 
with rather short pods. The seed is almost exactly like that of the 
Yellow Hundredfold, but is of a deeper, and nearly brown, colour. 

Williams's New Early. — Averyearlyandrather productive kind, 
the seeds and pods of which are marbled with violet. This colouring 
of the pods, added to their flat shape, lessens their value for table use. 

Yellow Canterbury. — A dwarf variety, with small yellow bulg- 
ing, straight seeds, very much resembling the Yellow Hundredfold. 



EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 




7^ a^JtBAUli 

White Tall King of the Skinless Beans. 



French^ Haricots sans parchemin. 
Gentian, Zucker-, oder Erech-, 
Bohnen. Danish, Snitte- 
bonnen. Italian^ Fagiuoli 
mangia tutto. 

I. Tall-Growing 
Varieties 

Tall White Algerian 
Wax or Butter Bean.— 

A rather vigorous kind, 
about 6|- ft. high, very 
remarkable for the Hght 
or yellow tint of its 
leaves, which renders it 
conspicuous at a distance. 
Stems wax - yellow or 
white, as are also the 
leaf-stalks; flowers white; 
pods long and slender, 
more or less curved, 
each containing, with 
some distance between 
them, five or six white 
egg - shaped, somewhat 
elongated seeds over Jin. 
long. An Edible-podded 
variety, it has, besides, 
this advantage — that its 
dried seeds can be sent 
to table. 

White Tall King 
of the Skinless Beans 
(^Haricot Roi des Mange- 
tout), — A very vigorous- 



TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 69 



growing and productive variety, with strong and long stems and 
abundant foliage ; pods numerous, yellow, sickle-shaped, extremely 
fleshy, entirely free from parchment, and containing from five to 
seven seeds each. The latter are large and white, squared at one 
end, i in. long and J in. broad. 

Cambrai Tall Wax or Butter Bean.— Not exceeding 5 ft. 
in height ; stem slender, 
pale green ; leaves small, 
light green, striped gray- 
green ; flowers white, 
turning to nankeen- 
yellow. Pods about 5 in. 
long, J in. broad, straight, 
of a pleasing butter- 
yellow colour, containing 
five or six fairly large 
white egg-shaped seeds, 
about J in. long, slighter 
in breadth, and about :^in. 
thick. A very productive 
variety, producing pods 
of excellent quality. Its 
very vigorous growth 
enables it to resist the 
disease to which the tall 
Beans are liable. 

Mont d'Or Wax or 
Butter Bean. — This 
handsome and good 
variety was raised near 
Lyons, whence it has 
been widely distributed 
throughout France. It 
is a very distinct kind, 
scarcely as tall as the 
Algerian Wax Bean, with 
pale green stems tinged 
with red, and smooth, 
uncrimped light green 
leaves and blue flowers. Pods very numerous, straight, pale yellow, 
like those of all the Butter Beans, nearly 6 in. long, very free from 
membrane, each containing five or six egg-shaped violet seeds, 
spotted and marbled with brown, and perceptibly smaller than 
those of the Black and White Algerian Wax Beans. This variety, 
which is only grown for the pods, is remarkable for its earlines? 
and productiveness. 




Mont d'Or Wax or Butter Bear*, 



70 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Algerian Tall Black Wax or Butter Bean.— A very distinct 
and well-known kind, probably the oldest of the varieties which 
are called Wax or Butter Beans from the colour of their pods. It 
is a plant of medium height, seldom exceeding about 6^ ft, with 
rather thick pale or yellow-green stems sometimes tinged with 
violet ; leaves of average size, not much crimped, gradually 

decreasing in size from the 
base to the top of the stem, 
and slightly ashy gray. 
The pods, which are green 
at first, assume, when they 
are about 2 in. long, a pale 
yellow semi - transparent 
tinge, very much resem- 
bling that of butter or 
fine wax ; they are usually 
somewhat curved, each 
containing from four to 
six seeds, which are blue 
at first, then violet, and 
when ripe quite black, and 
of a slightly flattened egg- 
shape, and a trifle longer 
than those of the Prague 
Kidney Beans. This is a 
productive and moderately 
early kind, and one of the 
best of the Edible-podded 
varieties. The pods are 
entirely free from mem- 
brane, and have hardly 
any fibre, so that they are 
quite tender and fleshy 
when fully grown, and 
may be sent to table 
almost until they are per- 
fectly ripe. The dried 
seeds are seldom eaten 
on account of their very dark and unattractive colour. 

Edible-podded Giant White Kidney Bean. — This very fine 
variety appears to be the offspring of the Purple-podded Kidney 
Bean, of which it exhibits all the vigorous and productive qualities; 
it has, moreover, the advantage of producing green pods and white 
seeds, thus being free from the only two blemishes that can be 
attributed to the Purple-podded Kidney Bean, viz. the objectionable 
colour of its pods and seeds. It is a half-late but productive kind, 




Black Algerian Butter Bean (j'^- natural size). 



TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 



with stout stems 6 to nearly lo ft. high. Leaves very large, but not 
numerous ; leaflets rounded and crimped. The flowers are white • 
pods very broad, and ' 
very numerous, 4 to 6 in. 
long, entirely free from 
membrane, thick and 
fleshy, each containing 
four to six flat white 
seeds, resembling those 
of the White Dutch or 
Case-knife Kidney Bean. , 
When grown under 
favourable circumstances, 
this variety produces such 
an abundance of pods as 
to weigh down the stakes 
which support it. 

Broad -pod Skinless 
Kidney Bean. — This 
variety, which was raised 
by M. Perrier de la Bathie, 
is one of the most singular 
and distinct varieties that 
has appeared for some 
years past. It is a vigor- 
ous, rather late productive 
kind, and remarkable 
amongst the Edible- 
podded varieties. Stem 
4 to 6 ft. high, bearing 
pods abundantly near the 
base ; leaves large, very 
green, slightly crimped ; 
pods so thick and facshy 
that the diameter from 
side to side is one-third 
greater than the distance 
between the front seam 
and the back. There is, 
however, no empty space 
inside the pod, which is 
so thick and fleshy that 
the seeds have hardly 
room to grow, and appear deformed by the pressure to which they 
are subjected. They are white, elongated egg-shaped, sometimes 
faintly kidney-shaped, about J in. long, and J in. broad and thick ; 




Edible-podded Giant White Bean. 



72 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



they are almost unique in being irregular in shape, being almost 
always flattened cross-wise, and the hilum, instead of occupying 
its usual position, is situated on one side of the line which would 
divide the seed into two equal parts. The seeds vary very much 
in size, however, according to the season. 

The Fat Horse Pole Bean or Mobile Bean resembles the 
preceding variety, but is a little earlier. 




Broad-pod Skinless Bean. Four to Four Bean. 



Geneva, or Plainpalais, White Butter Bean, or Wax Bean. 
— This variety is highly esteemed by the Geneva market gardeners. 
It is a tall-growing kind, coming very near the preceding one, but 
differing from it in a few points. It is more decidedly a pole bean, 
being a better climber than the other. The pods, which very much 
resemble those of the Broad-pod Kidney Bean, are not so fleshy, 
but they are produced in greater abundance, especially at the 
middle and towards the top of the stems ; they also ripen more 



TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 



readily. The seeds, or beans, are white, and of an elongated and 
nearly cylindrical shape. It is, in fine, a good mid-season tall 
variety of Butter Bean. 

Four to Four Bean. — Stems green, about 6J ft. in height, and 
bearing pods at a short 
distance above the ground. 
The pods, which are long, 
straight, thick and in- 
tensely green, are often 
produced in bunches of 
four, or even more — hence 
its name. The seed is 
short, square at the ends, 
fairly full and white. 
Though not free from 
fibre, the pods may be 
eaten green until they are 
three-fourths of their full 
size. The white colour of 
the seed allows of its being 
used in a dried state. The 
Four to Four Bean is 
productive and fairly 
early. 

Skinless Saint-Fiacre 

Bean. — One of the most 
productive varieties of 
Skinless Pole Beans. 
Stems green, tall, with 
large, smooth leaves ; 
pods very numerous, quite 
straight, about lO inches 
in length, entirely without 
membrane or fibre, and 
tender and fleshy even 
when fully grown. The 
seed is oblong and thin, 
dun-coloured, about | in. 
long, about J in. broad, 
and about half as thick. 
A fairly early variety, 
bearing during the whole 
summer. 

Skinless White-seeded Saint-Fiacre Bean. — An offspring of 
the preceding, with all its good qualities added to white seeds, 
enabling the surplus of the crop to be made good use of when dry. 




Skinless Saint-Fiacre Bean. 



74 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The pods equally fine and excellent The seed is the same shape 
and size, but of white colour. 

From the Valley Skinless Bean. — Stem stout and branching, 

10 ft. or more in height; 
leaves light green, 
pointed and smooth ; 
flowers w^hite. Pods 
rosy white, 7 to 9 in. 
long, twisted, with a 
well-marked groove and 
bulging seeds eight or 
ten in a pod. The seeds, 
like those of the Saint- 
Fiacre Bean, are light 
brown, but more flat ; 
they are about | in. long 
and about half as broad. 
A very early and pro- 
ductive variety, the pods 
very fleshy, and tender 
almost up to their com- 
plete maturity. 

Golden-yellow Tall 
Skinless Bean. — A 
vigorous variety, about 
6J ft. in height, quick- 
growing, but slackening 
early. It is one of the 
earliest Tall Skinless 
Beans. It sheds its 
leaves as early as the 
Princess and the Pre- 
dome Beans. The pods 
are in bunches of four, 
five, or six, long and 
slightly curved, green 
and fleshy. The seed 
is rather small, straight, 
squared at both ends, 
light yellow streaked 
with deep golden-yellow; 
as broad, and is of about 




From the Valley Skinless Bean. 



it seldom exceeds J in. in length by half 
the same thickness. 

Purple-podded Runner Kidney Bean. — A very vigorous and 
tall kind, sometimes attaining a height of ft. and upwards. The 
-Stems, which are stout and rather thick, are purple, as are also the 



TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 75 



leaf-stalks and the calyxes of the flowers ; the leaves are rather 
distant from each other, very much crimped, and dull green ; 
flowers lilac ; pods very numerous, straight, slender, at first of a 
very deep purple, but, as they advance in growth, becoming paler, 
and more or less bulged and undulated, but always very solid and 
fleshy. They are sometimes 10 in. long, and relatively slender, and 
contain six to eight seeds each. The seeds are long and flat, some- 
thing larger than those of the Flageolet Kidney Beans, and almost 
the same shape ; and are rosy colour marbled with lilac-gray. A 
rather early and exceed- 
ingly productive kind, and 
one of the best edible- 
podded sorts, being quite 
free from membrane, and,, 
when cooked, as green as 
those of any other kind. 

Edible-podded Black 
Scimitar Runner Bean. — 
A distinct kind, with flat 
kidney-shaped seeds, and 
pods entirely free from 
membrane. It is a tall- 
growing plant, being over 
8 ft. high, with thick pale 
green stems. Leaves large 
and broad, rather distant 
■from each other, pale green, 
and crimped; flowers lilac; 
pods long and broad, not 
curved, but frequently 
bulged or undulating on 
the edges, 6 to 8 in. long, 
violet at first, but losing 
this colour as they increase 
in growth, each containing 
six to eight seeds of the 
same size as those of the 
White Dutch Kidney Bean, 
but somewhat more humpy 
and irregular in shape, and 
with a very shining, brilliant 
black skin. This variety is 
remarkable for the great 
size and beauty of its pods. 
It is very productive, but rather impatient of damp, and half-late 
in ripening. 




New Zealand, or Prague, French Bean. 



76 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



New Zealand Runner Kidney Bean {Haricot de Prague 
Ma7'bre).—A variety of moderate height, seldom exceeding about 
4 ft., with thick green stems. Lower leaves large, slightly crimped, 
the rest of medium size, narrow, and rather dark green ; flowers 
pale lilac or rosy white ; pods broad, about 5 in. long, green at first, 
afterwards becoming tinged with violet-red on a white ground, 
and sometimes entirely red when ripe, each containing five or six 
egg-shaped seeds, of a salmon-rose colour, spotted, dotted, and 
striped with deep red, and having a brownish yellow circle around 
the hilum. This kind, which was introduced about the middle of 
the eighteenth century, is well known and extensively cultivated 
under the name of " Coco Rose." It is more generally grown for 
the dried seeds than for the pods. 

White Prague Kidney Bean. — Although this variety 
resembles the White Coco Bean in the colour and shape of the 
seed, it is distinguished from it by several marked characteristics. 
It is later and longer-lasting ; the leaves are more abundant and 
do not fall so soon ; they are large, not much crimped, and rather 
a dark green, and those at the top of the stem are nearly the same 
size as the lower ones ; the flowers are white, and the pods, which 
are abundantly produced up to the tops of the stems, are longer 
and narrower than those of the White Coco ; the seed also is 
larger, something flatter, and not so regularly egg-shaped. A 
very productive variety, with the single drawback of being some- 
what late, and therefore less valuable in localities where the autumn 
is cold and damp. 

White Coco, or Lazy Wife, Kidney Bean. — Stem green, 
about 6\ ft. high ; leaves of medium size, stiff, rather long and 
pointed, of a dark, rather dull, green, and slightly crimped ; flowers 
white ; pods of medium length, rather broad, green, each containing 
five or six white egg-shaped seeds, about \ in. long, nearly \ in. 
broad, and over \ in. thick. This variety, although ranking 
amongst the Edible-podded kinds (especially when the pods are 
young), is more esteemed for its seeds, which are used in the dried 
state. 

The Sophie Kidney Bean is considered to be only a sub- 
variety of the W'hite Coco, from which it differs in having rather 
larger pods (which are sometimes tinged with red, like those of the 
Prague Kidney Beans) and somewhat larger leaves. 

Red Prague Kidney Bean. — This variety differs from the 
preceding in the seeds being a uniform dark brown-red. 

There is also a sub-variety, known as the Two-coloured Prague 
Kidney Bean, the seeds of which are half red and white. 

Among the Prague Kidney Beans should be included the 
variety named Imperial Austrian White Coco, or Bossin. This is 
a large, productive, and rather late kind, the seed of which is white 



TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 



and nearly round, with a black bird-shaped blotch around the 
Jiiluvi^ something like the seed of the Spread Eagle, or Dove, 
Kidney Bean. 

The Two-coloured Italian Kidney Bean should also be 
classed with the Prague Kidney Beans. It is a very productive, 
tall kind, producing seeds of excellent quality for the table. 
There is a sub-variety of it, the pods of which, immediately before 
ripening, assume an exceeding lively uniform red colour, giving 
the plant quite an ornamental appearance. The seeds of both 
kinds are round, slightly egg-shaped, half white and half very pale 
chamois-colour. 

The IMammoth Podded Horticultural Pole Bean, or Worcester 
Mammoth, Hampden, [Mugwump, Carmine Podded Pole Bean, 
cultivated in America, is only a sub-variety of the New Zealand 
Runner Bean, with longer and stouter pods and larger seeds. 

Two-coloured Coco Prolific Bean. — Seed a long oval in 
shape, J to f in. in length, about \ in. broad and of the same 
thickness. The part opposite the hilum is entirely white : the 
Jiihun itself is marked with 
a narrow dark yellow ring, 
girdled by streaks like those 
of the Marbled New Zealand 
Runner and extending over 
one-third of the whole surface. 

Tall White Predome 
Kidney Bean. — Stem about 
4 ft. high, green, thick, and 
twisted ; leaves of medium 
size, rounded at the base, 
crimped, and a rather deep 
green colour ; flowers white, 
changing to yellow ; pods 
very numerous, straight, 
fleshy, deeply indented on 
the sides by the bulging of 
the seeds, 3 or 4 in. long, 
each containing six or seven 
very white nearly round 
seeds, which are often flat- 
tened at the ends, and are 
about \ in. long, \ in. broad, 
and less than \ in. thick. 

The pods are very tender ^^^^^^ ^^.^^^^ Kidney Bean natural size). 

and brittle, and free from 

membrane, in this respect surpassing all other varieties of Tall- 
growing Kidney Beans. The seeds, also, are of very good quality, 




78 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



so that the plant supplies an excellent vegetable, not only while 
the plants are green and the seeds half-formed, but also when the 
seeds are fully grown and ripening. The pods, also, are free from 
fibre, and can be cooked just as they are gathered, without any 
trimming. This is one of the best kinds of Edible-podded Kidney 
Beans, and is very extensively grown in France, particularly in 
Normandy, where there are two or three forms of it which differ 
slightly from each other in the size of the pods and seeds. It is 
a half-late variety. 

The Haricot Frio let and the H, Petit Carre de Caen are local 
forms of the Predome Kidney Bean rather than distinct well- 
marked sub-varieties. The Friolet is usually considered to produce 
smaller seed, but this does not appear to be a universally constant 
characteristic. 

Princess Runner Kidney Bean. — Stem green, thick, twisted, 
6J ft. high or more ; leaves round, of medium size, crimped, and 

deep green ; flowers white ; 
pods very numerous 
(especially at the base of 
the stems, where they 
form regular bundles), 
straight, green, bulging 
greatly over the seeds, 
and turning yellow when 
quite ripe ; they are from 
4 to 6 in. long, and seldom 
contain more than eight 
seeds each. The seeds 
are white, slightly egg- 
shaped, and very Hke 
those of the preceding 
variety, except that they 
are never flattened at 
the ends. A very good, 
hardy, exceedingly pro- 
ductive, and fairly early 
variety. It is extensively 
grown in French Flanders, 
Belgium, and Holland. 
While it much resembles 
the Predome Kidney 
Bean, it is sufficiently 
distinguished from it by 
the greater distance between the seeds in the pod, and also by 
growing fully one-third higher. When grown true to name, the 
seeds of the Princess Kidney Bean (which never touch each other 




Princess Edible-podded Runner French Bean. 



TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 



in the pod) preserve their natural slightly elongated egg-shaped 
form, while those of the Predome are pressed against each other, 
and, consequently, become flattened at the ends. 

There is a sub-variety with longer pods and greater distances 

between the seeds, known 
as ^ the Long-pod Princess, 
which is quite as early and 
productive as the ordinary 
variety. 

From amongst the almost 
innumerable other varieties of 
Tall-growing Edible-podded 





Cherry Japanese French Bean. 



Ivory Butter Bean. 



Beans, we may also mention the following as possessing the 
greatest degree of merit : — 

Cherry Japanese Bean. — A very distinct variety, with 
numerous, very short pods, slightly over 2 inches long, contain- 
ing 4 or 6 oval seeds of wine-lees-red colour and white hilum. 

Tall Ivory Wax or Butter Bean. — A tall-growing kind, 6\ to 
over 8 ft. high. Stems whitish, slightly tinged with red on the side 
next the sun ; leaves numerous, of medium size, and of a light 
green ; flowers lilac ; pods numerous, fleshy, straight or slightly 
curved, entirely free from membrane, and especially remarkable for 
the white tint which they assume when they are two or three days 
old, and which becomes more pronounced as they advance to 
maturity. Each of them contains from five to eight egg-shaped 



8o 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



seeds of red-violet colour, and of the same size as the seeds of the 
Red Prague Kidney Bean, from which they differ in colour only. 
This is a good Edible-podded variety, somewhat late, but an 
abundant and remarkably continuous bearer. 

Saint-Joseph Butter Bean. — This variety forms the connect- 
ing link between the Prague Kidney Beans and the Butter Beans 
properly so called. Its pods are straight or slightly curved, and are 
streaked with red on a butter-coloured ground. The seeds are 
marbled either with violet on a rose-coloured ground or with rose- 
colour on a violet ground. The plant is not a tall-growing one, as 
it seldom exceeds 4 ft. in height. It was raised about the year 
i860 at the agricultural colony of Citeaux, near Dijon. 

Bulgarian Bean.— Rather late,, vigorous, and prolonged in 
vegetation ; stems tall and twining ; leaves dark green, large and 
abundant ; flowers lilac ; pods long, straight, very fleshy and 
brittle, dark green in colour striped with violet, and free from 
parchment. The seed is long, flat, gray streaked with purple, 
about f in. long, h in. broad, and about half as thick. In the 
climate of Paris it is one of the best and most prolific Beans for 
producing green pods, but for maturing its seed it requires 
the warmth of Southern France. 

Imperial Kidney Bean.— This is distinguished from the Tall 
White Butter Bean only by the colour of its stems and pods, both 
of which are green instead of butter-yellow. 

Climbing Yellow, or Dunes Yellow, Kidney Bean. — Of 
medium height, productive, and fairly early. Seeds yellow, nearly 
cylindrical, resembUng those of the Yellow Hundredfold. Pods 
straight, very fleshy and tender, and from 4 to 6 in. in length. 

Lafayette Kidney Bean. — A tall variety, rather late, and with 
pods not altogether free from membrane. Flowers white ; pods 
pale green, becoming yellow when ripe, each containing six to 
eight chamois-coloured seeds marbled with light brown and shaded 
with reddish brown around the Jiilinn. 

Nankeen-yellow Geneva Bean. — A tall early plant, bearing 
an abundance of pods in bunches of four, five, and even eight on 
the same stalk. Seed kidney-shaped, flat, pale nankeen-yellow. 

Asparagus, or Yard Long, Kidney Bean. — A very tall kind, 
nearly 10 ft. high. Leaves very large and distantly placed ; flowers 
copper-coloured or lilac ; pods almost cyHndrical, exceedingly long 
and slender, sometimes more than a foot in length ; seed very long, 
nearly cylindrical, but narrowed at both ends, of a more or less 
coppery chamois-colour. A late kind, requiring a warm climate. 

Rose-coloured Predome Butter Bean.— A plant of medium 
height, seldom exceeding 4 ft., but branching and clumpy. 
Flowers rose-coloured ; pods exceedingly numerous, growing in 
profusion from the base to the top of the stem,, but seldom 



\ 



TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 



8i 



exceeding 2 or 3 in. in length, and each containing four to 
six small nearly round seeds of a 
salmon-rose colour. 

Val d'Isere Kidney Bean. — 
This is a very vigorous, leafy, late 
kind,laden,in the end of autumn, with 
green, fleshy, well-filled very much 
curved pods. Seed black, egg-shaped. 

Villetaneuse Kidney Bean. — 
This variety, which was formerly 
very much grown about Paris, is 
now almost entirely superseded by 
the Tall-growing Butter Beans. It 
is a productive, somewhat late kind, 
bearing rather long, tender, and 
thick pods, each containing five or 
six flattened, almost square, coffee- 
coloured seeds marbled and streaked 
with brown. 

Gray Zebra Runner Kidney 
Bean. — A late and very vigorous 
kind, nearly 10 ft. high, with large, 
spreading leaves and lilac flowers. 
Pods thick, fleshy, curved, streaked 
with violet on a green ground ; 





La Val d'Isere French Bean. 



Gray Zebra French Bean. 



seeds egg-shaped, of a dark gray colour, dotted with lighter gray, 
and striped with black. Raised by M. Perrier de la Bathie. 

6 



82 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The American variety, Giant Red Wax Pole Bean, is a Tall- 
growing Edible-podded Kidney Bean, 6\ ft. high, with large flat 
white or yellow pods, resembling those of the Edible-podded Black 
Scimitar Kidney Bean, and red seeds. It is a rather late kind. 

II. Dwarf Edible-podded Kidney Beans 

Dwarf White Wax 
or Butter Bean. — A 

very good but somewhat 
tender variety, forming 
low, broad clumps, which 
sometimes sprawl on the 
ground. The leaves be- 
come smaller and paler 
towards the tops of the 
stems. Flowers white ; 
pods almost transparent^ 
waxy white, and about 
4 in. long, each contain- 
ing five or six short, 
egg-shaped, creamy white 
seeds, sometimes slightly 
wrinkled. The dried 
seeds are excellent for 
the table. 

King of the Wax 
Bean. — A dwarf, com- 
pact plant, with short 
but stout rigid stems. 
Pods numerous, very 
thick (compared with their length), tender and fleshy. Seed 
white, full, oblong, thin-skinned. Among the numerous varieties 
of Wax Beans, this takes an 
important place, its produc- 
tion being more abundant 
and longer than that of any 
other. The dry seed is 
very tender and of excellent 
quality. 

Very Early Dwarf Wax 
or Butter Bean. — Regular 
and dwarf in habit and very 
early ; stem short ; leaves 
broad and pointed, veined, 
gray-green. Pods long and numerous, yellow, free from membrane; 
seed small, short, buff-coloured, about \ in. long and about half 




King of the Wax Bean. 




Very Early Dwarf Butter Bean. 



DWARF EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 83 



as broad and a little less in thickness. A very interesting 
variety owing to its small size and great earliness. Admirably 
adapted for forcing, but also 
well suited for open ground 
culture. 

Dwarf Golden Wax 
Bean. — Very dwarf, com- 
pact, early and productive ; 
pods tender and fleshy even 
when fully grown. The 
seeds five or six in a pod, 
small, oval, bright yellow, 
and about J in. long, about 
t in. broad, and a little 
less in thickness. Its earli- 
ness and the little space it 
occupies suit it well for 
glass as well as for open 
ground culture. 

Digoin Wax Dwarf 
Bean. — A vigorous, half- 
early and very productive 
variety for field as well 
as kitchen-garden culture. 
Dwarf, bushy, compact, 
branching, with large dark 
green leaves ; numerous fleshy, thick pods of a beautiful golden 
yellow,, and free from parchment. The seeds are oval and of 

chamois-colour. 

Mont d'Or Dwarf 
Wax or Butter Bean. — 
A very productive and 
very early variety of Dwarf 
Butter Bean. Stems i ft. 
to 16 in. high, branching ; 
leaves large, rough, but 
not crimped, deep green, 
remarkable for the very 
variable shape of the 
terminal leaflet, which is 
sometimes long and 
pointed, and sometimes 
nearly round and quite 
blunt at end ; pods very 
numerous, 4 or 5 in. long, well filled, and pale yellow ; seeds 
small and round, dark red, deepening into black. 




Dwarf Golden Wax Bean. 




Mont d'Or Dwarf Butter Bean. 



84 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Dwarf Algerian Black-seeded Butter Bean.— An established 

dwarf varietv of the Agerian Wax or Butter Bean, with rather 

large yellow - stalked 




Disoin Dwarf Wax Bean. 



or 



bent, 



leaves, the colour of 
which varies, on the 
same plant, from dark 
to light green. Flowers 
lilac ; pods very fleshy 
and butter-colour; seeds 
black, egg-shaped, a 
little sm.aller than those 
of the Tall -growing 
variety. This is an early 
kind, very productive, 
and of excellent quality, 
and is one of the most 
extensively grown varie- 
ties of Kidney Beans. 
It has the precious 
peculiarity that the pods 
thus escaping contact with 



on maturity become curved 
the soil. 

The Black Wax or Butter Bean is an early dwarf, v/ith 
pale gray-green foliage and black seed. It may be considered 
as identical with the Dwarf Algerian Black-seeded Bean. 

The Prolific German Wax or Butter Bean, cultivated in the 
United States, differs 
only from the Dwarf 
Algerian in having the 
pods slightly longer, 
more curving and 
more swollen. 

Long- podded 
D war f Al ge ria n 
Butter Bean. — This 
is to be a sub-variet\- 
of the Dwarf Algerian 
Butter Bean, differing 
in its longer pods, 
and also the shape of 
its seeds, which, in- 
stead of being egg- 
shaped, are almost 
cylindrical, nearly 




Dwarf Algerian Black-seeded Butter Bean 
natural size). 



f m. 
very 



long 
free 



and 
from 



over 



m. 



broad and thick. The pods 
membrane, and are more slender and 



are 

less 



DWARF EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 85 




Long-podded Dwarf Algerian Butter Bean 
(■| natural size). 



fleshy than those of the preceding kind. This variety has come 
into very general cultivation about Paris, where it is grown in 
the fields for the city 
markets. 

Early Dwarf White 
Edible - podded Kidney 
Bean. — Stem tall and 
branching, attaining a 
height of 20 in., leaves 
medium sized, numerous, 
rather crimped ; flowers 
white ; pods 6 in. long, 
flat, very thick and fleshy, 
almost always curved or 
twisted, each containing 
five or six white flattened, 
moderately kidney-shaped 
seeds, sometimes slightly 
squared at the ends, varying from J to nearly | in. in length, 
about i in. broad, and about ^ in. thick. This variety is fairly 
good for field culture, a good bearer and pretty early, but the 
seeds are easily spoiled by cold or damp autumn weather. 

Unique Dwarf White Kidney Bean. — Stem tall, vigorous, and 
branching ; leaves rather deep green, large, rounded, and crimped ; 
flowers large, white ; pods numerous, straight, 5 or 6 in. long, each 

containing five or 
six white, long, very 
bulging, straight oi* 
curved seeds, almost 
as thick as they are 
broad. This is one 
of the best Dwarf 
Edible - podded 
Kidney Beans. Its 
dried seeds also are 
of excellent quality, 
and perfectly white — 
a great recommen- 
dation, as Kidney 
Beans of this colour 
are generally pre- 
ferred for table use. 

Quarantain 
Dwarf White Kid- 
ney Bean.— A plant of medium height, with branching stems, 
forming a rather compact clump. Leaves of average size, stiff 




Unique Dwarf White Kidney Bean (| natural size). 



86 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



almost triangular, long, pointed, and dark lustrous green ; flowers 
white ; pods flat and broad, and from 4 to 6 in. long. A hardy, 
early, and fairly productive variety, but not always maintaining 
a strictly dwarf habit of growth. 

Dwarf Extra Early Wax or Butter Bean. — A very 
dwarf plant, extremely early, forming and maturing its pods 
before any other variety of Edible-podded Beans. In growth 
it resembles the Dwarf Algerian Black-seeded Butter Bean ; 
its pods, however, are not quite so fleshy or so yellow. The 
seed is white, oblong, measuring about J in. in length, a 
little less than J in. in width and in thickness ; very hand- 
some and regular in shape, and ivory-white in colour. Its 
chief merit is its great earliness, the pods being ready for 
the market fully eight days earlier than those of any other 
variety. 

White-seeded Dwarf Lyonnais Bean. — A white-seeded sport 
of the following, the characteristics and qualities being the same. 
The pods, 6 in. in length, contain six or seven straight, thin seeds, 
slightly flattened. 

Long-podded Dwarf Lyonnais Bean. — Dwarf, not over 
12 to I si in. in height; stems strong and branching; leaves 

long, broad, and lightly 
crimped ; flowers lilac. 
Pods very long, very 
fleshy, almost as solid as 
those of the Intestin Bean, 
but much longer, more 
pointed, and frequently 
curved. Seed long, 
straight, thin, slightly 
flattened, dark chamois 
or light brown in colour. 
A very productive variety, 
yielding pods of excep- 
tional quality and beauty. 
First grown about Lyons 
only a few years ago, 
and likely to gain favour 
everywhere. 

Haricot du Bon Jar- 
dinier. — Dwarf, bushy, 
with short, branching 
stems ; dark green, rather 
small, and finely crimped leaves ; flowers rosy lilac. Pods of 
medium size, not very long, of the thickness of the little finger, 
dark green, and free from parchment ; seed yellow, cylindrical. 




Long-podded Dwarf Lyons Bean. 



DWARF EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 87 



square, or rounded at both 
the ^Hundredfold Bean. 

Emile Dwarf Kidney Bean. 



ends, resembling closely that of 



■An 




Haricot du Bon Tardinier. 



exceedingly dwarf and 
remarkably early variety, 
seldom more than 8 or 
10 in. high. Leaves 
medium sized, of a rather 
dark green, and slightly 
crimped ; flowers white 
or very pale lilac ; pods 
somewhat curved, 4 or 
5 in. long, very fleshy, 
green before ripening and 
never turning white or 
yellow, each containing 
from five to seven oblong 
violet-coloured seeds 
marbled with light gray, 
about J in. long and I in. broad and thick. This variety, which 
was recently raised by ^I. Perrier de la Bathie, seems to us to 
be both the dwarfest and the earliest of all the Edible-podded 
Kidney Beans, and is specially suitable for forcing. 

Dwarf Purple-podded Bean. — A dwarf Bean remarkable for 
the dark blackish colour which extends to all its parts ; the stems 
dark purple, the leaves tinged violet, especially towards autumn, 
and the pods so much so as to appear almost black. Like those of 
the Purple Runner Bean, 
the pods become green 
in the cooking. The 
plant is bushy, vigorous, 
half-early, and produces 
very fleshy, tender pods, 
distinct from those of 
any other sort. 

Predome Dwarf 
Kidney Bean. — The 
pods and seeds of this 
variety are exactly like 
those of the Tall-growing 
Predome Kidney Bean, 
but less abundantly pro- 
duced, and this deficiency 
is not redeem.ed by any other particular merit. . The ordinary 
Predome Kidney Bean does not require very tall stakes, so that 
it is not one of those kinds in which the raising of a dwarf variety 
is any advantage. 




Dwarf Purple-pcddcd Skinless French Bean. 



88 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Dwarf Prolific Bean.— Dwarf, very bushy and branching ; 
leaves rather small, narrow, but numerous, and vivid green in 
colour ; flowers white or rosy, pods abundant, rather short, almost 
cylindrical and bright green, containing each from four to six small 
white oblong seeds, resembling those of the Rice Bean, but a little 
longer. A very good half-early, hardy, vigorous and very productive 
variety. 

Pink-marbled Dwarf Prague Kidney Bean. — A very dwarf, 
compact, moderately productive kind, with rather abundant gray- 
green leaves and lilac flowers. Pods green, straight, or very 
slightly curved, plentifully striped with red, each containing four 
or five seeds resembling those of the common Cranberry Bean, but 
somewhat smaller. 

Yellow Canadian Dwarf Kidney Bean. — A very good variety, 
hardy and productive, but somewhat late, well adapted for market- 



variety are much esteemed. The pods, to be tender, should be 
gathered before they are fully grown. Although closely resembling 
the Yellow China Kidney Bean, this variety is distinguished from 
it by the deeper colour of its seeds, and by its leaves being larger, 
less crowded together, moderately crimped, and a darker green. 

Oval Yellow China, or Robin's Egg, Kidney Bean.— A 
rather branching kind, with stems about i6 in. high, forming an 
airy-looking clump. Leaves medium-sized, and of bright green, 
those at the top of the stem being small and long-stalked ; flowers 
white ; pods green, turning yellow when ripe, each containing five or 
six egg-shaped sulphur-yellow seeds, with a more or less marked 
bluish circle around the hilum. This variety is one of the most 




Yellow Canadian Dwarf Kidney Bean. 



garden or field cul- 
ture. Stems rather 
vigorous, branching, 
i6 to 20 in. high, 
thickly covered with 
medium-sized leaves 
light green. Flowers 
lilac ; pods very nu- 
merous, green at first, 
changing to yellow, 
each usuall}^ contain- 
ing five egg-shaped 
seeds a little smaller 
than those of the 
Prague Kidney Beans, 
and deep yellow, 
merging into brown 
about the hilum. The 
dried seeds of this 



DWARF EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 89 



widely cultivated in different parts of the world, and is to be met 
with almost everywhere in the colonies and America, under the 



dwarf and rather tender. The American variety Early Valentine 
may be considered identical with it. 

Two-coloured China Dwarf Bean. — This variety does not 
seem to be very much grown, and yet it is known almost everywhere. 
It is rather tall and very branching, with white flowers. The pods 
are of medium size, pretty free from membrane, turning white when 
ripe, and each containing five or six straight, cylindrical seeds, often 
square at the ends, and deeply striped with red around the hiliim to 
the extent of half the surface of the seed, while the other half is 
entirely white. A rather productive and very early kind. 

Dwarf White Malmaison Kidney Bean. — A productive and 
moderately early variety, with fine fleshy, bulging pods, which are 
usually straight. Seed rather long, oval, and white. 

Dwarf Aix Kidney Bean. — A variety with small round rosy 
white seeds. Pods yellow, and rather short, but free from 
membrane. 

Predome Flesh-coloured Wax Bean. — A dwarf, much- 
branching variety ; pods numerous, short, straight, green ; seed 
rosy, egg-shaped. 

Princess Dwarf Kidney Bean. — This is not a very vigorous 
kind, and its crimped and rounded leaves are very liable to disease, 
arising either from the attacks of insects or from minute fungus 
growths It is also rather late. The pods are short and curved, 
free from membrane, and deep green. The remark made upon the 
Dwarf Predome is also applicable to this variety ; however, as 
the ordinary variety of the Princess attains a tolerable height, it 
may sometimes be advantageous to have a dwarf form of it. 




same name and exhibiting 
the same characteristics. 



Besides those already 
described, there are many 
other varieties of Dwarf 
Edible - podded Kidney 
Beans in cultivation, of 
which we shall only 
mention the following : — 



Oval Yellow China, or Robin's Egg, Kidney Bean 
[\ natural size). 



Variegated White- 
podded Butter Bean. — 

Seed variegated, straight, 
and almost cylindrical in 
shape, creamy white with 
spots and marblings of a 
wine-lees red or red-violet 
colour. This variety is 



90 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The following are of American origin : — 

Crystal Wax White Bean. — Dwarf, but usually running at 
the top. Pods short and white, almost transparent ; seeds white 
and oblong. 

Detroit Wax or Butter Bean is closely related to the following 
one, the only difference being that its seed, likewise white, is 
streaked with gray about the hilum. 

Golden-eyed Wax or Butter Bean. — A very early Bean, the 
pods yellow, large, and abundant. Seed white, short, and strongly 
marked with orange about the umbilicus. 

Golden Wax Bean. — A pretty and productive variety, early, 
with pods free from parchment, and pale yellow. Seed white, 
partly streaked with red, almost the same as the Early China Bean. 

Improved Early Red Valentine Bean. — A good summer 
Bean, especially if gathered when green. Pods fleshy. Seed 
resembles that of Blood Speckled Bean. 

Iron-pod Wax Bean. — Not a reliably dwarf kind, nor very 
productive. Pods free from membrane, white, tinged or slightly 
striped with violet ; seeds white. 

New Golden Wax Bean. — A fine, productive, and early kind. 
Pods free from membrane, and pale yellow ; seeds white, partly 
marbled with deep red, almost like those of the Two-coloured 
China Kidney Bean. This is a good variety. 

Rachel Dwarf Bean. — Dwarf, productive, with thick bulging 
pods ; seed oblong, chamois-coloured, blotched white at one end. 

Valentine Wax Bean. — A sub-variety of the foregoing with 
yellow pods. 

Wardwell's Kidney Wax Bean. — Dwarf, free from parchment, 
fairly early, with pods long, yellow, slightly curved, rather flat, and 
larger than in the Flageolet Wax Canterbury. Seed long, white, 
with a large violet stain on the umbilicus. 

White Wax Bean. — Allied to the Dwarf White-seeded Wax 
Bean, but more leafy, later, and with flatter pods. 

Ward's Centenary Bean. — A productive light green variety, 
with yellow, short, broad pods. Seed the same as that of the 
Two-coloured Italian Bean — that is to say, like the Prague Bean. 

SCARLET RUNNER BEANS 

Phaseolus multifiorus, Willd. 

French^ Haricot d'Espagne. German, Arabische Bohne. Dutch, Turksche boon. 
Italian, Fagiuolo di Spagna. 

Native of South America. — Naturally a perennial, but cultivated 
as an annual. — These plants, while extremely valuable as vegetables, 
are esteemed as ornamental climbers, on account of their rapid 
growth and the abundance of their flowers. 



SCARLET RUNNER BEANS 



91 



I The Scarlet Runner is the most 
,i valuable, and frequently the most 
i| beautiful, plant in English cottage 
1 gardens. It is grown in thousands 
i of gardens, even in London and 
our large cities and towns, hiding 
with its quick-running and vigorous 
I shoots many ugly surfaces in summer, 
i and affording a quantity of whole- 
some food. The pods are often, 
like many other vegetables, allowed 
to get too old and hard before being 
gathered. 

Scarlet Runners are generally 
raised from seed, but the roots may, 
if desired, be taken up in autumn 
and preserved through the winter in 
I dry sand or in soil in any shed or 
cellar from which frost is excluded. 
If roots thus wintered be brought 
out and planted about the latter end 
of May, they come into bearing a 
fortnight or three weeks earlier than 
those raised from seed sown at the 
same time. They are also sometimes 
left in the ground all the winter, and 
protected from frost by a good thick 
layer of coal ashes placed over the 
rows. Thus treated, they start early 
in May, if the weather be favour- 
able ; and when they have attained 
the height of 3 or 4 ft., if stopped, 
will produce beans much earlier than 
by any other method ; but if a pro- 
fitable crop be desired, this plan is 
not to be recommended, as the plants 
do not continue in bearing so long 
as those that are raised from seed. 
Among positions chosen for Scarlet 
Runners may be named small patches 
of ground at the corners of walks, 
planting five or six seeds in a patch, 
5 or 6 in. apart. Three stout poles 
or sticks, as used for Peas, are then 
placed round them in the form of a 
triangle, bent so as to meet at the top, 
where they are tied. In small gardens 
they are often trained over wire or 
woodwork, so as to form summer- 
houses or coverings for walks. 



Culture. — In large gardens the 
general practice is to sow in open 
quarters, and where beans are re- 
quired as long in the season as they 
can be obtained, and in large quan- 
tities, this is undoubtedly the best 
plan. They should be allowed a 
distance of at least 6 ft. between the 
rows, and if more can be afforded 
them, all the better. For early 
crops, a few rows may be made close 
under a south wall or fence, keeping 
the points regularly pinched out, in 
order to keep them dwarf and en- 
courage the earlier development of 
the pods. In this case they will, 
of course, need no support, but be 
allowed to lie in a thick row along 
the ground. Beans may be produced 
in this way several weeks earlier 
than in open quarters, but they do 
not continue so long in bearing, nor 
do they produce such abundant crops. 
Where, however, earliness is an ob- 
ject, this plan may be followed with 
advantage. Seeds for this purpose 
may either be sown in heat and 
transplanted, or sown in the open 
ground where the plants are to re- 
main. The former way is the more 
troublesome, but it is the best where 
covering is at hand to protect them 
from cold winds and frosts after they 
have been planted. If sown in heat, 
the seeds should be put in about the 
second week in May, either in boxes 
or pots, boxes being the best ; they 
should be shallow — say, not more 
than 4 or 5 in. deep — their size in 
other respects being of no great im- 
portance ; they should have holes at 
the bottom for drainage, and should 
be half filled with half-rotted leaf- 
mould pressed down rather firmly 
with the hand; slightly cover with 
fine soil, and upon this sow in rows 
2 in. apart, and cover with about 
I in. of finely sifted leaf-mould, 
giving the whole a good watering. 
If placed in a Cucumber or Melon 



92 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



frame at "work," they will soon be 
up, and should be kept as near the 
glass as possible, in order to pre- 
vent them from becoming drawn. 
After they have made two single 
leaves, they should be taken to a 
cold frame or pit, gradually inuring 
them to the open air, so as to make 
them as hardy as possible previous 
to planting out, which may be done 
the first week in June. Before 
planting them out, they should have 
a good watering, and be taken out 
of the boxes with as much earth 
adhering to them as possible. Plant 
either in double or single rows, 
4 or 5 in. apart, as close to the wall 
or fence as may be convenient. If 
they be then well watered and shaded 
from the sun for a day or two, and 
protected from cold at night, they 
will soon make a good start. 

Sowing in Open Ground. — The 
first sowing in the open ground for 
a general crop should be made not 
earlier than the first week in ^May, 
for if they are up before the end of 
that month they are liable to be cut 
off with frost, unless protection can 
be afforded them — a rather trouble- 
some matter where large quantities 
are grown. Some draw drills in 
which to sow the seeds, but the 
best way is to plant them in with 
a dibble about i in. deep, and then 
draw the rake over the ground to fill 
in the holes. Double rows are to be 
preferred to single ones, as they pro- 
duce more beans. Each seed should 
be at least 6 in. apart. INIanaged in 
this way they grow strongly, and if 
stopped when they have attained 
the height of 5 or 6 ft., they will 
produce fine large trusses of bloom 
from top to bottom. Where succes- 
sions are desired, several sowings 
must be made. The general rule is 
to sow one good crop and let that 
serve all purposes; but if a sowing 
be made the first week in May, a 



second a few weeks afterwards, and 
another not later than July ist, a 
continuous supply of young and 
tender beans will be the result; the 
last sowing, however, should be only 
a small one. Sowing in trenches 
has lately been much practised, and 
in some cases no doubt with advan- 
tage ; but when sown in deeply dug 
ground, trenches are unnecessary. 
They are generally made with the 
view of affording an effectual means 
of watering the plants ; but they 
necessitate the water being applied 
close to their bases, which is hurtful 
rather than beneficial to Runner 
Beans. Where, however, the earliest 
crop of Scarlet Runners has to be 
sown in open quarters, the best way 
is to take out a trench, say, 3 or 4 in. 
deep, laying the soil on each side 
of it in ridges. Pea-wires or bent 
Hazel sticks may then be placed 
on the rows after the seed has been 
sown and covered ; these will afford 
good supports for mat or canvas 
protections until the plants will do 
without covering; after which time 
the soil may be put back in the 
trench, and no further earthing-up 
will be necessary. 

Sticking Scarlet Runners. — 
Where procurable, common Pea- 
sticks are best adapted for Runner 
Beans, but they require to be rather 
larger and stronger than for Peas ; 
for unless firmly sticked, they are 
apt to suffer during rough, windy 
weather. Where, however, such 
sticks are not obtainable, stout 
poles, 7 or 8 ft. long, may be used, 
placing them firmly in the ground 
at intervals of 6 or 10 ft. apart along 
each side of the row. Slender sticks 
cut the same length as the distance 
the poles are apart may then be 
tied lengthways along the poles, 
I or ft. apart : the plants will 
twine firmly round these, and thus 
support themselves. 



SCARLET RUNNER BEANS 



93 



With respect to soil, a light rich 
loam is best for the Scarlet Runner, 
and it should be deep, to allow of 
the roots descending in time of 
drought. Previously to planting, the 
ground should be deeply trenched 
and enriched by means of a Hberal 
supply of good rotten manure. 
Where, however, time cannot be 
spared for this, trenches may be 
taken out, 2 ft. wide and from 
2 to 3 ft. deep, according to the 
depth of the soil. The soil thus 
taken out should then have plenty 
of good manure mixed with it, and 
be replaced in the trench. If this 
be done in autumn, it will be all the 
better. 

Market Garden Culture. — 
Scarlet Runners, on account of their 
taking up more room, are not so 
much grown in London market gar- 
dens as the dwarf French Beans. 
Their yield is not so great in propor- 
tion to the ground occupied, and 
they are also, unless supported by 
stakes, more difficult to gather. 
Around Wandsworth, and in some 
parts of Kent, within twenty miles 
of London, however, large fields are 
devoted to their culture. In some 
places stakes are used, but, as a 
rule, the points of the shoots are 
kept stopped, and the haulm is 
allowed to rest on the ground. In 
some respects this latter practice is 
best, for the rows can be placed close 
together, and, moreover, the haulm 
shades the ground and keeps the 
soil moist, a condition essential to 
the growth of Scarlet Runners. A 



rich, light soil and an open situa- 
tion is that usually chosen for them. 
Some plant a few rows in warm, 
sheltered places for early use, the 
seeds of which are sown in a tem- 
porary frame in April, and are trans- 
planted from thence to the open 
ground as soon as the weather is 
warm enough to admit of it, but, as 
a rule, the seed is sown in drills in 
an open field about the first week 
in May. Ground previously occu- 
pied by Celery suits these Beans 
perfectly, the soil being deep, well 
worked, and rich. The seeds are 
sown in broad drills from 4 to 8 ft. 
apart, according to whether the plants 
are to be staked or not. Two rows 
occupy each drill, and the plants 
when up are left from 4 to 6 in. 
apart each way, the thinnings being 
used to fill up gaps, should such 
occur. When the plants are fairly 
up, a ridge of earth is drawn to 
each side of them, to protect them 
in some measure from cutting winds 
and late frosts. When in full flower, 
the points of the shoots are pinched 
off, which causes the stem to branch 
and keep dwarf. Early in July 
Scarlet Runners appear in Covent 
Garden, and when that happens 
French Beans are not in so much 
demand as hitherto, the majority 
of vegetable consumers preferring 
Runners to French Beans. Some 
market gardeners sow successional 
crops for autumn use, but the bulk 
of the produce is brought to market 
in the end of July and throughout 
August. 



There are several varieties, differing in the colour of their 
flowers and seeds ; the principal are : — 

1. The Scarlet Runner. — The seeds of this variety are light 
wine-colour, blotched with black. 

2. The Black-seeded Runner. — The flowers of both this and 
the preceding variety are a uniform scarlet. 

3. Painted Lady, Bicolor, or York and Lancaster Runner.— 



94 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The seed of this variety hardly differs from that of the Scarlet 
Runner, but the flowers are half red and half white, the keel and 
wings being white, and the standard scarlet-red. 

4. Hybrid Scarlet Runner. — The seeds of this kind are very 
distinct, being a gray-yellow blotched with brown ; the flowers are 
variegated like those of the Painted Lady. 

5. The White Runner. — This is the only kind that is sometimes 
grown in France as a vegetable. Stems very vigorous, climbing, 

attaining a height of 
nearly 10 ft. in a few 
weeks ; flowers white, in 
numerous long - stalked 
clusters ; pods broad, very 
flat, seldom containing 
more than three or four 
seeds each ; seeds white, 
full, very large, kidney- 
shaped, sometimes i in. 
long, f in. broad, and 
in. thick. The seeds 
of Scarlet Runner Beans 
do not usually ripen well 
in the climate of Paris. 
In the south of France, 
however, this species, 
which is very hardy and 
very productive, is grown, 
to a moderate extent, as 
a vegetable, and in some 
other countries it is very 
highly esteemed. In the 
north of France, the seeds 
^/ ^S^S*MII^KC\f thick-skinned, and 

v'v .MSm^M^if^hLilkTi are deficient in delicacy 

of flavour. They contain 
a great deal of flour, but 
are inferior, especially in 
the dried state, to any of 
the good French varieties 
of Kidney Beans. In 
England the pods are most generally used in the young green 
state, many preferring the flavour of these when quite young to 
that of the Kidney Beans in a similar stage. They are best pulled 
when they have attained about two-thirds of their development, 
just when the seeds begin to form, and if cut lengthwise in narrow 
strips they cook much more readily. 




"White Runner Bean (yV natural size). 



LARGE LIMA BEAN 



95 



LARGE LIMA BEAN 



Phaseolus lunatus, L. 

French, Haricot de Lima. German, Breitschotige Lima Bohne. Italian, Fagiuolo di 
Lima. Spanish, Judia de Lima. 

Native of South America— Annual.— Stem climbing to the 
height of nearly lo ft. ; leaves composed of three triangular leaflets, 
longer and narrower than 
those of ordinary Kidney 
Beans ; flowers small, 
greenish white, in numer- 
ous stiff long clusters ; 
pods short, very flat and 
very broad, rough on the 
outside, like those of the 
Scarlet Runner Beans ; 
seeds flat and short, 
slightly kidney-shaped, 
with one half nearly al- 
ways larger than the other, 
and usually marked with 
wrinkles or flutings from 
the hilum outwards. The 
varieties of the Lima Bean 
are grown in the same 
manner as the ordinary 
Tall-growing Kidney 
Beans, but they are later, 
and seldom ripen seed in 
the climate of Paris. The 
seeds are sent to table 
either fresh or dried. 
They are farinaceous, and 
are highly esteemed in 
the United States and in 
some warm countries. 

Common Lima Bean. 
— Rather late - growing, 
never ripening more than 
a portion of its pods in 
the climate of Paris, and never ripening there at all in cold damp 
seasons. Stems thick, and pale green ; leaves medium-sized, 
smooth, and gray-green ; seed broad and flat, white, slightly tinged 
with yellow, over f in. long, about f in. broad, and about \ in. 
thick. There is a green-seeded variety, and another which has 




Large Lima Bean (yV natural size). 



96 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



white seed, like that of the type, but marked with a small brown 
or blackish blotch close to the Jiiluiii. 

Dwarf Lima Bean. — An American variety, distinct, and much 
appreciated in the United States, where Lima Beans are amongst 
the vegetables most generally used in the autumn. Its leaves, 
flowers, and pods resemble much those of the Sieva Bean, but it 
is a truly dwarf variety, forming low, compact bushes, which do not 
require any support. Added to this, its earliness ensures its success 
in many localities where the tall Lima Bean fails to reach maturity. 

Mottled Lima, or Marbled Cape, Bean.— This differs from 
the Common Lima Bean only by the peculiar variegation of the 
seed, in which a large patch of red, more or less deep, surrounds 
the hiluni, from which it extends to one end of the seed, which it 
entirely covers for about one-third of its length ; the remainder of 
the surface being finely dotted with the same red on a white 
ground. This variety is alm.ost as late as the Common Lima Bean. 

Small Lima, or Sieva, Bean. — Stems slender and green ; 
leaves smaller and darker in colour than those of the Common 
Limia Bean. This variety of PJiaseoliis lujiatus differs from the 
preceding ones in having much smaller seeds, which in other 
respects resemble those of the Common Lima Bean, but are seldom 
over I in. in length, about ^ in. broad, and ^ in. thick. The Small 
Lima Bean is also earlier than the other varieties of PJiaseoliis 
limatus, and its first pods ripen regularly in the climate of Paris ; 
but it is very far from being as productive there as it is in warm 
climates, where it often continues bearing for three months. In 
the United States a variety is grown which has the seed streaked 
with red. 

In the United States, where the Lima Bean is one of the most 
valued of autumn vegetables, there are some half-a-dozen varieties 
in cultivation, both runner and dwarf. Among those in the first 
category are the following : — 

Burpee's Willow-leaf Lima Bean. — Resembles the Sieva 
Bean, but distinct from it in its linear-lanceolate leaf, from whence 
its name of Willow-leaf. 

Challenger, Dreer's Improved, Potato Lima Bean. — A very 
vigorous and fairly productive medium-early variety. The pods 
are thicker than in the other varieties, and contain three to five 
large rounded, swollen seeds. A very good kind. 

Extra Early Jersey Lima Bean. — Eight or ten days earlier 
than the Lima Runner Bean, but with smaller seeds. 

King of the Garden Lima Bean. — A vigorous variety, pro- 
ducing pods of a length rarely obtained by the other varieties, and 
containing five or six very large seeds of excellent quality. 

' Siebert's Early Lima Bean. — Fairly early, abundant, and 
constant producing ; the pods, of medium size, seldom contain more 



LARGE LIMA BEAN 



97 



than three or four seeds, which are, however, very large and 
tender. 

Among the American varieties of the Dwarf Lima Bean, we 
may mention : — 

Burpee's Willow-leaf Bush Dwarf Lima Bean.— i\ dwarf 
form of the Burpee's Willow-leaf mentioned above. 

Dwarf Large White Lima Bean, Burpee's Bush Lima 
Bean. — Only differs from the foregoing in being earlier. 

Burpee's Quarter- Century Dwarf Lima Bean. — The same 
remark applies to this. 

Kumerle Dwarf Lima Bean, Dreer's Bush Lima Bean.— 
A dwarf form of the Challenger Lima Bean described above. 

Dwarf Sieva Lima Bean, Henderson's Bush Lima Bean, 
Wood's New Prolific Lima Bean. — A frankly dwarf form of the 
Small Lima or Sieva Bean, forming low thick tufts. Earlier than 
its runner variety, it ripens its seed in the Paris climate. In the 
United States it is one of the most valued and most cultivated kinds. 

DOLICHOS 

Several species of the genus Dolichos also are cultivated as 
kitchen-garden plants, especially in warm countries, but of these we 
shall only mention kinds that can be grown in the climate of Paris. 

Black-eyed Dolichos {Dolichos unguiculatus^ L. Leguminosce). 
— An annual plant, usually growing from 20 in. to 2 ft. high, with 
leaves composed of three triangular, elongated leaflets, which are 
rounded at the base, very smooth, and dark green. Flowers large, 
changing from white to rose-colour and lilac, with a deeper-coloured 
blotch at the base of the petals, and growing in twos or threes on a 
thick stout flower-stalk ; pods pale green, straight, or curved as 
they become heavy, varying in length from 6 to 10 in., nearly 
cylindrical, and slightly bulged over the seeds, which usually lie at 
some distance from each other ; seeds rather variable in size and 
colour, usually white, short kidney-shape, blunt or square at both 
ends, slightly wrinkled, and marked with a very pronounced black 
blotch around the hilum. In those countries where, as in Italy, the 
Black-eyed Dolichos is extensively cultivated, a great number of 
varieties are grown, which differ from one another principally in the 
size of the seeds. The climate of Britain is too cold for these plants, 
but many parts of the Colonies are suited for their culture. They 
bear a degree of heat which would injure the Beans that thrive with 
us. Culture is the same as that of the Dwarf Varieties of Kidney 
Beans. This plant, however, is not very particular as to the soil in 
which it is grown. The young pods are cooked in the same way 
as green Haricots. 

Years ago, M. Durieu de Maisonneuve, director of the Botanic 
Garden at Bordeaux, introduced a very singular variety of this 

7 



98 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



plant, the pods of which, instead of being straight, are curved round 
and round, from which peculiarity it received the name of Ram's- 
horn Bean. Its culture and uses are the same as those of the 
ordinary variety. 



ASPARAGUS BEAN 




Very Early Long-pod Asparagus Bean. 



Dolichos sesquipedalis , L. 
Leguiiiinos(2. 

French, Dolique Asperge, Haricot 
Asperge. Gerjfian, Amerikan- 
ische Riesen - Spargel - Bohne, 
Langschotige Spargel - Fasel. 
Dutch, Indiaansche Boon. 
Jtalta7t, Fagiuolo Sparagio. 

Native of South 
America. — Annual. — 
Stems climbing, 6 to over 
9 ft. long ; leaves deep 
green, rather large, long, 
pointed ; flowers large, 
greenish yellow, with the 
standard bent backwards, 
remarkable for two small 
parallel auricles which 
compress the wings and 
the keel : they are borne 
either solitary or two 
together on the top of 
the flower-stalk. Pods 
pendent, cylindrical, light 
green, very slender, and 
long ; not unusually ex- 
ceeding I J ft in length. 
The seeds are few for the 
size of the pod, being 
generally from seven to 
ten in number ; they are 
kidney-shaped, and red 
or pale wine-lees colour 
with a black circle round 
the white hilum ; they 
are seldom more than 
about \ in. long. The 
plant is cultivated in the 
south of France, especially 
in Provence. The culture 



ASPARAGUS BEAN 



99 



is similar to that which is employed in the case of late varieties 
of Tall Kidney Beans. A good warm position is desirable, the 
best being one against a wall. The green pods are used in the 
same way as Kidney Beans. 

Long Tonkin Asparagus Bean.— A remarkably eany variety, 
producing in the open ^ 
ground, in the vicinity 
of Paris, as early as 
July or August, long, 
thin, very tender, and 
fleshy pods. The seed 
is rather small for use 
as a vegetable by itself : 
it is yellow-white, with 
a black ring around the 
hilum ; it measures less 
than \ in. in length, 
and a little less still in 
breadth and thickness. 

Very Early Long- 
pod Asparagus Bean. 
— A sub-variety of the 
Cuban Asparagus Bean; 
like the latter, very 
vigorous in growth and 
productive, but distin- 
guished from it by its 
very great earliness, 
which allows it to mature 
its seed in temperate 
climates. The seed is 
small, chocolate-brown, 
with a white eye sur- 
rounded by a black 
ring, and measures a 
little over \ in. in length 
and about \ in. in 
breadth. Ripens in the 
climate of Paris. 

Giant Extra Early Giant Extra Early Asparagus Bean. ^ 

Asparagus Bean. — Distinguished from the preceding ones by 
the extreme length of its pods, sometimes as much as 3 ft. 3 in. 
They are very numerous, and broader than those of the Cuban 
Asparagus Bean, and they contain a large number of red seeds, 
marked black around the white hilum. Ripens in the climate 
of Paris. 




100 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Cuban Asparagus Bean.— A vigorous climbing plant, attaining 
a height of from lO to 13 ft ; leaves very large; leaflets long, 

spear-shaped ; flowers of 
medium size, green, mostly 
solitary, succeeded by pods 
of remarkable length, being 
often over 2 J ft. long when 
fully grown. They are 
then inflated by the swell- 
ing of the seed, and are 
about J in. broad. The 
seed, in form and colour, 
exactly resembles that of 
the Asparagus Bean, of 
which this appears to be 
a variety, but a very 
distinct one, as it grows 
much taller and is a 
thorough climber. It is 
cultivated, however, in the 
same way, and the pods 
are similarly eaten when 
green, before they are fully 

Cuban Asparagus Bean natural size). grown. 



LABLAB, or EGYPTIAN KIDNEY BEAN 

Lablab vulgaris^ Savi. Leguminosce. 

French, Dolique Lablab. Italian, Fagiuolo d'Egitto. Spanish, Indianella. PoHuguese, 

Feyas da India. 

Native of India. — Annual. — A climbing plant, with stout 
branching stems, which are sometimes from 13 to over 16 ft. long. 
Leaves compound, with three large broad leaflets of a dark green 
colour, and slightly puckered or crimped ; flowers sweet-scented, 
large, in long dense clusters ; pods rather short, wrinkled, and very 
flat, growing sometimes seven or eight together on the same stalk ; 
seed short, oval, flat, three or four in each pod ; hilui7t white, much 
marked, occupying nearly one-third of the circumference of the 
seed. There are two principal varieties, one with white flowers 
and white seed, and the other with violet flowers and black seed. 
They are grown in the same way as Tall Kidney Beans. In 
France they are only grown as ornamental plants, but the seeds 
are eaten in those countries where they are grown for table use. 




LABLAB, OR EGYPTIAN KIDNEY BEAN loi 



Stringless Lablab Asparagus Bean. — The tendency in the 
ordinary Bean of the stringy fibres to disappear under careful 
cultivation is also seen in the Lablabs. The variety under considera- 
tion is exceedingly vigorous in growth, and yields an enormous 
quantity of pods. Stem light green, very branching ; leaves large, 
very pointed, and smooth ; flowers white, in large trusses ; pods 




Lablab or Egyptian Kidney Bean, 



very numerous, in bunches, yellowish white, slightly downy, short, 
broad, and rounded at the end. Seed brown^ provided with a 
curious white aril or keel along one of the edges; .it is about J m 
in length and a little more than J in. broad and thick.,"' • 



102 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



BEET-ROOT. 

Beta vulgaris, L. Chenopodiacecs, 

French, Betterave, Bette, Racine d'abondance. German, Salat-Rube. Dutch and 
Flemish, BetworteL Danish, Rodbede. Italian, Barbabietola. Spanish, Remo- 
lacha. Portuguese, Beterraba. 

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — A plant which, in the first year 
of its growth, forms a more or less long, thick, and fleshy root, and 
runs to seed in the second year. The fruiting stem is about 4 ft. 
high, and as the calyx of the flower continues to grow after the 
flower has faded, and completely covers the seed, it becomes corky 
in substance and appearance, and forms what is commonly called 
Beet-seed, but which is really a fruit, nearly as large as a pea, and 
almost always containing several seeds. The true seeds are very 
small, kidney-shaped, brown, and with an exceedingly thin skin. 
They retain their germinating power for six years or more. 

It is not exactly known when the Beet-root was first introduced 
into cultivation. The ancients were acquainted with the plant, 
but we have no account from which we can be certain that they 
cultivated it. Olivier de Serres mentions it as having been intro- 
duced into France from Italy not long before the time at which he 
wrote. 

Culture. — Beet is sown, where the crop is to grow, in the 
open air, as soon as the spring frosts are over, and best in drills, for 
greater convenience in hoeing ; and the young plants are thinned 
out, with a greater or less space between them according to the 
size of the variety grown. They prefer a deep, rich, well-manured, 
and well-tilled soil. It is a good plan to dig in the manure in the 
autumn, as fresh strawy manure is apt to cause the roots to become 
forked. A few waterings in dry weather will be the only additional 
attention required by the growing plants, the roots of which come 
to maturity from July to the end of autumn, according to the time 
at which sowings were made. 



A deep sandy loam, trenched to 
a depth of at least 30 in., suits it 
better than any other kind of soil, 
and if poor, it should have been well 
manured for the previous vegetable 
crop. In such soil, the evenest and 
cleanest roots are produced ; but Beet 
will also succeed on calcareous soils, 
if of sufficient depth. Heavy or stiff 
loams intended for its growth should 
be thrown up into ridges before 
winter sets in, so as to get well pul- 
verised, and, if very heavy, a light 



dressing of coal ashes worked into 
them would prove advantageous, 
and materially assist in producing 
" clean " roots. Stable manure 
should not be added to the soil 
unless it is trenched deeply, when it 
may be placed quite at the bottom 
of the trench ; if otherwise, as soon 
as the roots reach it they become 
forked, instead of making straight 
and well-shaped roots; therefore, if 
the soil be so poor as to require 
manure, a sprinkling of guano or 



BEET-ROOT 



103 



superphosphate, applied to it between 
the rows as soon as the plants are 
fairly established, will be found the 
best stimulant. 

Sowing, etc. — Beet must have an 
open situation; it never grows or 
looks satisfactorily when grown 
under the shade of fruit trees — a 
position to which it is often rele- 
gated ; but this should not be, for 
most varieties of Beet are ornamental 
as well as useful, and one would, 
therefore, suppose that a conspicuous 
place would be selected for them. 
The time for sowing varies from the 
beginning of April to the middle 
•of May. In the majority of soils, 
about April 20th will be found to 
be the best time ; if sown too early, 
especially if the soil be rich, it is 
liable to run to seed, or the roots to 
grow too large — medium-sized roots 
being always most highly valued, 
more particularly for salads. The 
seed should be sown in drills 15 
in. asunder, and i| in. deep; and 
it should be covered in by hand — 
a rake should not be employed for 
this purpose, as by its use half the 
seed is often drawn out of the drills, 
and the plants come up irregularly. 
Thin out the seedlings, as soon as 
they are large enough to handle, to 
9 in. apart in the row, and if 
•dark, bronzy leaved kinds be grown, 
see that the greenest-looking plants 
are drawn out. After thinning has 
•been completed, by means of the hoe 
frequently loosen the soil between 
the rows — an operation which will 
aid the growth of the Beet, and at 
the same time keep down the weeds. 
If blanks, through failures, occur 
in the rows, they should be filled 
up with young plants in showery 
-weather, though roots obtained in 
this way rarely prove satisfactory, 
'being small and irregular in growth ; 
still, it is worth doing, if only for 
ithe sake of appearance. 



Varieties. — As a rule, the colour 
of the roots is the first consideration ; 
but flavour should in our opinion 
have precedence, rather than colour. 
Where both are combined, however, 
as is the case in Dell's Crimson, 
which has many synonyms, such a 
variety must be the best to grow ; 
moreover, this variety has the addi- 
tional attraction of deep crimson- 
coloured foliage, and is of no small 
importance as an ornamental plant. 
Other good varieties are — Hender- 
son's Pine-apple, Dimmick's Non- 
pareil, Nutting's Dwarf Red, and 
Egyptian Turnip-rooted, the last 
being more especially valuable for 
early summer supply, as it comes 
into use nearly a fortnight earlier 
than any of the long-rooted sorts. 
It is also suited for growing on 
shallow soils, and, although pale in 
colour, is of excellent quality. 

Storing Beet-root. — Frost is 
most injurious to Beet-roots, which 
should, therefore, be dug up by the 
end of October, or provision should 
be made for protecting them in the 
ground, in the event of severe weather 
setting in. Stable litter, hay-bands, 
or Bracken [Pteris aquilina) will 
effectually protect Beet ; but, where 
neatness is studied rather than utility, 
this manner of protection should not 
be thought of. In that case, the roots 
should be dug up at the time men- 
tioned above, and " clamped " in the 
same way as Potatoes ; or they may 
be layered in dry soil or sand, in a 
cool shed, — but it must be really 
cool, or they will start into growth, 
and the flavour will go. 

For market-garden culture, a 
good crop of Beet-root is very remu- 
nerative, and when there is a ready 
sale for it in the market it pays 
better than any other root crop. 
The main sowing is made to succeed 
Wallflowers, Radishes, Spinach, or 
Cabbages, and it is also often grown 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



on Asparagus ridges, between rows 
of fruit bushes, and between lines of 
Vegetable Marrows; and even when 
growing in the open field, it is often 
intercropped. An early sowing is 
usually made, in lines about 15 in. 
apart, in the first week of May, be- 
tween rows of Cabbages or Lettuces, 
recently planted ; after the seeds 
germinate and the plants are well 
above ground, they are thinned out 
into patches with short hoes, and 
when they have formed a few rough 
leaves they are thinned out to single 
plants by hand. Some make a sow- 
ing even as early as in March, in a 
sheltered piece of ground, for yield- 
ing an early supply. In harvesting 
a crop of Beet-root which has to be 
kept through the winter, the roots 
are carefully dug up, preserving 
them their whole length intact, and 
keeping 2 in. of the stalks attached 
after the leaves have been twisted 
off by hand. They are then built 
in pyramidal-shaped clumps, and 
covered with straw, over which a 



coating of soil is put to exclude 
frost. Leaving the roots in the 
ground is the best plan, as their 
proper flavour is thereby preserved 
better than when lifted and stored : 
but they are liable to be injured by 
frosts in January, or to be locked in 
the soil when it might be convenient 
to send them to market. Some of 
the darkest and finest-shaped roots 
are kept for seed-bearing plants, and 
are planted in some out-of-the-way 
nook by themselves. Transplanting 
Beet is only resorted to to fill up 
vacancies in the rows, as in the 
operation the main roots are often 
broken, or otherwise so damaged 
as to render it almost impossible for 
them to produce good roots. Dark 
crimson-coloured Beets are those 
which are most esteemed by market 
gardeners, most of whom grow their 
seeds saved from selected plants. 
Carter's St. Osyth is a favourite 
kind with many growers, but none 
are liked so well as the selected 
Dark Crimson. 



Uses. — A great number of varieties are grown for table use, 
the roots being either plainly boiled or baked, or pickled or used 
for salads. Other varieties are used for feeding cattle, or for the 
manufacture of sugar, for which reason we do not mention them. 
When lifted, the tops should not be cut, but screwed off, and the 
roots should not be injured more than can be helped, as injury to 
them induces decay. Before cooking, the roots should be well 
washed, but not peeled or scraped, or the skin bruised ; for, if 
such be the case, much of the saccharine matter escapes during the 
boiling. Boiling doubtless renders Beet most agreeable to the 
generality of consumers ; though some prefer to bake it, by which 
a deeper colour and a firmer texture of flesh are ensured. 

GARDEN BEET 

L Red-Fleshed Varieties 

Larg^ Blood-red Beet— This is the kind which is most exten- 
sively grown in France, being intermediate between the garden 
and the field varieties. It is very productive, very hardy, and of 
good quality for table use. It is also the kind which is most 



RED-FLESHED GARDEN BEET 



105 



frequently brought ready boiled to the market-places. Root almost 
cylindrical, as thick as a man's arm, and i ft. to 14 in. long, 
growing with over one-third of its length over- 
ground, sometimes becoming tap-rooted and 
forked at the extremity. The colour of the 
skin of the part covered by the soil is of a 
uniform deep red, while the part overground 
is more or less reddish and wrinkled. Flesh 
deep red; leaves large and stout, green marbled 
and veined with red ; leaf-stalks very red. The 
large size of the roots of this variety and the 
heavy crop which it yields recommend it as 
the best of the kitchen-garden varieties for field 
culture. For some time past, very red-fleshed 
and red-juiced kinds of Beet have been much 
sought after for various economic or manufac- 
turing purposes, and the variety now described 
is eminently adapted for such uses. 

Gardanne Beet, which is in high repute 
in the south of France, comes very near this 
variety, differing from it only by being a little 
thicker under the neck, and growing with less 
of the root overground. 

Long Smooth Blood-red, or Long Smooth 
Rochester, Beet. — Root very long, almost 
cylindrical, attaining a length of 14 in., with a 
diameter of hardly 2 in., and almost entirely 
underground ; skin smooth and uniform, of a 
dark red colour ; flesh blackish red. A hand- 
some variety, of good quality, and keeping well. 
To grow well, it requires a deep, well-dug, and well-manured soil. 

Rough-skinned Red Beet-root {B. Rouge Crapaudine). — One 
of the oldest varieties, and distinguished from all the others by 
the peculiar appearance of the skin, which is black and broken by 
small cracks or crevices, like the bark of a young tree, or perhaps 
still more resembling the skin of a Black Winter Radish. Root 
rather long, almost entirely buried in the soil, and frequently some- 
what irregular in shape ; flesh very red, sugary, and firm ; leaves 
numerous, slightly twisted, spreading rather than erect, almost 
entirely green, with red stalks. This variety affords a striking 
instance of the absence of any invariable correspondence between 
the colour of the flesh of a Beet-root and the colour of its leaves. 
No other kind has deeper-coloured flesh than this, and yet many 
have the leaves much more deeply tinged \vith red. 

The Beets knov/n as the Little Negress of Rennes and the Red 
Beet-root of Diorieres do not appear to differ from this variety. 




Large Blcod-red Beet 
(i natural size). 



io6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Deep Blood-red Castlenaudary Beet.— Root small, nearly 
buried in the soil, rather slender, straight, sometimes with a tap- 
root of some length ; skin black-red ; flesh very dark red, compact, 
solid, and very sugary ; leaves dark red, with long stalks. This 
variety does not yield a heavy crop, but its quality is excellent. 
The English varieties Long Deep Red and Very Dark Red are 



very similar to this. The same may be said of Dobbie's New 
Purple and Goldie's Superb Black, their roots being only a little 
thicker. 

Whyte's Black Beet. — Synonyms : Osborn's Improved Blood- 
red, Barratt's Crimson, Oldacre's Blood-red, Perkins's Black. — A 
handsome medium-sized kind. Root long, thick under the neck, 
sometimes a little angular instead of being regularly round ; skin 
smooth, of a very deep slate colour ; flesh black-red, firm, and of 
good quality ; leaves rather stout, slightly crimped and undulated, 
of a brown-red colour, more or less tinged and mixed with green ; 
leaf-stalks red. This is one of the best varieties ; the flesh is very 
deeply coloured, and the root can be easily distinguished from all 
others by the gray or leaden hue of the skin. It is fairly pro- 
ductive, and keeps well. 




Rough-skinned Red Beet. 



Deep Blood-red Castelnaudary Beet, 



RED-FLESHED GARDEN BEET 



Dwarf Red, or Nutting's, Beet. — A very handsome variety. 
Root very symmetrical in shape, small, slender, long, deeply sunk 
in the soil ; leaves deep red, half-erect, uncrimped, slightly undulated, 
and much longer than broad. 

Dell's Dark Crimson Dwarf Beet. — There is no great 
difference worth mentioning between this variety and Nutting's 
Beet, except that the foliage is larger, well crimped, and turned 
backwards ; it has the same root and is used sometimes for border- 
ing. This variety, Hke the preceding one, produces small roots, 




Whyte's Black BeeC Nutting's Dwarf Red Beet 

but to make some amends for this, they can be grown very close 
together. Both varieties are moderately early. 

Many other English varieties resemble the Dwarf Red and 
Dell's Crimson, without being exactly like either of these kinds. 
Of these we will only mention Bailey's Fine Red, Sang's Dwarf 
Crimson, and the Saint Osyth Beet. The two following varieties 
are to be commended : Omega Dwarf-topped, a medium-sized, 
handsomely shaped Beet, with delicately sweet, rich crimson flesh ; 
and Nonpareil Dwarf Green-top, a very dwarf kind, with small, 
well-formed, scarlet-fleshed roots. 

Dracaena-leaved Beet. — A very pretty and peculiar variety, 
with a slender lengthy root, almost the same shape as Nutting's 
Beet, but smaller ; it differs from that by its narrower, longer, 



io8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



more numerous leaves, which are generally curved in the shape 
of a sickle, the top forming a very elegant rounded nosegay, 
which at first might be mistaken for the foliage of a Dracaena 
or a Croton. While thus ornamental, it is not without merit as 
a vegetable. 

Covent Garden Red Beet. — A very handsome variety, 
thicker and smoother than the preceding sorts. The root is 
long ovoid rather than spindle-shaped, smooth and entirely 
underground ; the flesh a deep blood-red, the foliage rather 
light, tinged purple turning to very dark brown in the 
autumn. 

The varieties of the Covent Garden Beet are Dewars Dwarf 




Dell's Dark Crimion Dwarf Beet, Dracaena-leaved Beet. 



Red^ Drumniond's Nonsuch, and Ferry s Half-loJig and Half -long 
Blood Beet, though perhaps a shade shorter ; but the difference is 
so trifling as to be negligible. 

Black Queen Beet. — In some respects this new variety re- 
sembles the Pear-shaped Strasbourg Beet, with smaller, compacter 
leaves, more proportionate to the size of the root. The root is 
conical in shape, both above and below ground, but more tapering 
at the base than the Strasbourg. The flesh is almost black ; the 
leaves are also deep coloured. They are of fair size, slightly 
'crimped, short and almost round, and at no time absolutely green, 
which is seldom the case with black-rooted Beets, even such varieties 
as have the darkest leaves in the autumn. The Black Queen Beet 



RED-FLESHED GARDEN BEET 



may be used, like the Dell's Beet or the Dracaena-leaved Beet, for 
bordering or for dark-coloured beds. 

Strasbourg Pear-shaped, Non Plus Ultra, or Intermediate 
Dark Beet. — i\n intermediate variety, very deeply sunk in the soil. 
Skin and flesh of an extremely deep red, the leaves and leaf-stalks 
almost black. This is one of the deepest coloured of the kitchen- 
garden varieties. It is not a very productive kind, and the leaves 
and leaf-stalks are rather large in proportion to the size of the root, 




Covent Garden Red Beet, Black Queen Beet, 



which, unlike that of the Dwarf Red variety, when pulled, belies 
the promise given by the foliage. 

Trevise Early Salad Beet, or Turin Red Spring- Beet. — A 
very pretty Salad Beet, intermediate between the half-long and the 
round or flattened varieties. Its top-shaped form proclaims its 
relationship with the long-rooted sorts. It is remarkable for its 
light foliage and slender leaf-stalks. No other Salad Beet, not 
even Nutting's Beet, produces so few leaves. 

Dewing's Early Blood-red Beet. — A handsome variety of 
American origin, it comes between the Early Blood-red Turnip 
Beet and the Eclipse Beet, mentioned below. The root is thick, 
smooth, rounded above the ground, but slightly conical and 



no 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



top-shaped below. The flesh is good in colour, but not very 
dark. The leaves are of no great size, rather light, green 
tinged with red during summer, but a more uniform brown-red 
colour towards autumn, and are much like those of the Egyptian 
Beet. * 

The Arlington Favourite is a good American variety of the 
Dewing. It is high coloured and scant in leaf, and differs very 
little from the original. 

Eclipse Turnip Beet. — May be described as a spherical 
Egyptian Beet. Like the latter, it is very early, smooth, and has a 
very scant foliage, but it is distinguished from it by its globular root, 
which, when of the same diameter, is about twice as productive, 
and has, moreover, the advantage of attaining a good size without 




Strasbourg Pear-shaped Trevise Red Flat Beet. Dewing's Blood-red 

Beet {i natural size). Turnip Beet. 



spoiling its shape. Originated in America, it is undoubtedly the 
best Salad Beet yet received from that country. 

Allied to this variety is the Model Beet, an English Beet with 
leaves much reduced in size and highly coloured flesh. 

The Crimson Globe Beet, also an English variety and of 
recent introduction, possesses characteristics very similar to those 
of the Eclipse Beet. The root is clean, very smooth, rather long 
than broad, with pinched extremities and well-coloured flesh — that 
is to say, deep violet slightly zoned, tender and saccharine ; the 
foliage scant, and in colour brown-red. 

Early Blood Red Turnip-rooted Beet. — An early variety, with 
a round and half-flattened root, scarcely half buried in the soil ; 
skin dark violet-red ; flesh a fine red ; leaves rather large, green, 
broadly marbled and veined with brown-red. To this variety may 
be referred, as almost identical with it, the kinds named Flat 
* A Non-bleeding Beet, see p. 759. 



RED-FLESHED GARDEN BEET 



III 



Blackish Red, Black-leaved Round Red, and the English variety 
Early Blood-red. 

The American varieties, Edmand's Early Turnip, Bastian's 
Blood Turnip, and Early Blood Turnip Beet, come very near to 
this, even as regards earliness and colour. 

Detroit Dark Red Turnip Beet.— One of the Beets the most 
cultivated in the United States, it appears to be a selection of the 
Early Blood-red Turnip Beet. It has a round, somewhat ovoid 
root, very smooth, and a fine deep blood-red colour. The flesh 
is bright red, tender and good in quality ; the foliage very erect, 
scant, and in colour green with deep red veinings. 

Egyptian Dark Red Turnip-rooted Beet. — An exceedingly 
early variety, and certainly the best of the early kitchen-garden 



kinds. Roots rounded and flattened, especially underneath, almost 
entirely underground, and resting on the surface (to which it is held 
down by a rather slender tap-root), very symmetrical in shape until 
it has grown larger than the fist, when it frequently becomes 
irregular or sinuated in form as it increases in size. Skin very 
smooth, violet or slaty red ; flesh dark blood colour ; leaves slight, 
brown-red, more or less mixed with green ; leaf-stalks long and 
slender, and bright red. When sown in the open air under favour- 
able conditions, the roots of this variety may be pulled for table use 
in June, when they are about as big as a small orange, their quality 
being then at its best. If sown on a hot-bed, they may be pulled 
still earlier. Like the Dwarf Red variety, the roots of this kind 
also may be grown very close together. 

Early Flat Bassano Beet. — A stout-growing, broad, flat variety, 
with numerous but rather slender green leaves ; leaf-stalks tinged 




Eclipse Turnip Beet, 



Early Blood-red Turnip-rooted Beet. 



112 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

with red ; skin of the root grayish red, especially the part abov 
ground ; flesh in bands or zones of white and rose, firm, sugar 
delicate, and highly esteemed in some countries. This is a mod 
rately early and very productive kind. 

The following varieties deserve to be mentioned as ver 
distinct : — 

The Cheltenham Green-top Beet.— An English variety, wit 
very long, clean, regularly tapering root. A very deep-rooting 
variety, it offers even in a more marked degree than the Rough 
skinned Beet a contrast between the colour of the foliage, which i 
pale green, and that of the root, which is a very intense red. 

Crosby's Egyptian Beet. — A variety much esteemed in the 
United States; the only similarity it bears to the Extra Early. 
Egyptian Beet is in its great earliness. It has a thicker andj 





Egyptian Dark Red Turnip-rooted Beet 
natural size). 



Early Flat Bassano Beet. 



than its Extra 
scant in leaf, 



altogether larger, but less highly coloured, root 
Early namesake, being a distinct vermilion. It is 
and is one of the earliest varieties. 

Lentz Beet. — Also of American origin, and very early. The 
root is top-shaped, and the flesh red with lighter coloured zones. 
The foliage is very short and green, tinged with brown. 

Short's Pine-apple Beet, Pine-apple Dwarf Red, or Hender- 
son's Pine-apple Beet. — A compact-growing kind, with a rather 
short root, which is tap-rooted, and about 2 or 3 in. in diameter ; 
flesh very dark in colour ; leaves stiff and spreading, red. with 
orange-coloured stalks. 

Victoria Beet. — A variety of German origin, with an inter- 
mediate root of a deep red colour, less remarkable for its value as 
a vegetable than for the singular metallic appearance of its leaves, 
and quite as much grown for ornamental as it is for kitchen-garden 
purposes. 



YELLOW-FLESHED GARDEN BEET 



II. Yellow-fleshed Varieties 

Long Yellow, or Orange, Beet. — This variety is almost as 
muchi grown in the fields as in the kitchen- 
garden, and is the kind which is principally 
cultivated by the cowkeepers of P^iris and 
its vicinity, on account of its highly 
reputed nutritious and milk -producing 
qualities. Root long, almost cylindrical, 
about half of it above-ground ; leaves erect, 
stout, green, with yellow stalks ; skin of 
root orange-yellow ; flesh golden-yellow, 
marked with zones more or less pale, and 
sometimes nearly white. It is the most 
productive and one of the best Yellow- 
fleshed kinds. 

Yellow, or Orange, Turnip Beet. — Root 
slightly top-shaped, with a stout tap-root ; 
skin orange-yellow ; flesh bright yellow, zoned 
with pale yellow or white ; leaves rather short 
and broad, crimped, 




very 
fine- 



Long Yellow, or 
Orange, Beet. 



undulated, with 
yellow ribs and 
stalks. A 
sugary and 
flavoured variety, 
the root, when well 
boiled, becoming 
tinged with orange. 
It is one of the best 
additions which of 
late years has been 
made to the list 
of kitchen -garden 
plants. 




Yellow, or Orange, Turnip 
Beet. 



BORAGE 

Borago officinalis, L. Boragi?tacecB. 

French, Bourrache officinale, German, Borretsch. Flemish, Bernagie. Italian, 
Boragine. Spanish, Borraja. Fortugmse, Borragem. 

Native of Europe and North Africa.— Annual. — Stems 12 to 
18 in. high, hollow, bristly, with pointed hairs ; leaves oval, rough, 
and haired like the stems ; flowers in a scorpioid cyme, about i in. 
broad, of a fine blue colour in the common variety, sometimes 
violet-red or white ; seeds rather large, gray-brown, oblong, slightly 



114 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Borage (g natural size;. 



curved, streaked, and marked with a projecting midrib or ridge. 
Their germinating power continues for eight years. 

Culture and Use — 
This plant can be grown 
without trouble, by sowing 
the seed in any corner of 
the garden at any time 
from spring to the end of 
autumn. It will come into 
flower in a few months. In 
the London market-gardens 
it is grown in temporary 
frames out of doors for 
supply during late autumn 
and winter ; for spring use,, 
seedlings are raised in heat 
and transplanted into glass- 
covered frames, which can 
be easily removed when the 
weather is sufficiently mild 
to admit of the plants being 
exposed without injury. Throughout the summer and autumn it is 
as easily grown out of doors as any common annual or weed, yet in 
remote country districts we have seen people much puzzled to find 
a sample when they required it ! It is so vigorous and hardy that 
there need be no difficulty in country places in naturalising it on. 
any half-waste place, chalk bank, steep slope, or copse ; a handful 
might be found in such a place in case its culture had been forgotten 
in the garden. It is one of the pretty true blue flowers, and almost 
worth growing in certain places for its beauty. It is naturalised in, 
various counties in England, but is not a true native plant, belong- 
ing naturally to the shores of the Mediterranean, where so many 
of our old garden plants are native. It is sold chiefly to hotel- 
keepers for making claret-cup. The flowers are used for garnishing: 
salads, but the plant is grown for the manufacture of cordials. 

BROCCOLL— See after Cauliflower 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS.— See after Cabbage 

BUCK'S-HORN or HARTS-HORN PLANTAIN, or STAR 
OF THE EARTH 

Plant ago Coronopus, L. Plantaginece. 

French, Corne-de-cerf, Pied-de-corbeau. German, Hirschhorn-Salat. Fkinish,^ 
Veversblad, Hertshoorn. Italian, Corno di cervo, Coronopo, Erba Stella. Spanish, 
Estrellamar, Cuerno de ciervo. 

Native of Europe. — Annual. — Leaves numerous, long, narrow^ 
deeply lob^d, bearing a few long hairs and forming a very regular 



BUCK'S-HORN OR HART'S-HORN PLANTAIN 115 



rosette close to the ground ; stems each surmounted by a spike of 
minute yellow flowers, which are succeeded by small membranous 
capsules filled with very small, egg-shaped light brown seeds. 

Their germinating power con- 
tinues for four years. 

Culture. — The seed is 
sown, where the crop is to 
grow, either in spring or 
autumn ; in either case, the 
ground is cleared off at the 
end of summer. The plants 
require no attention, except 
whatever weeding is needed 
to keep the ground clean, in 
addition to plentiful water- 
ings, without which the 
leaves soon become hard 
and leathery. As the plant 
yields abundan»tly, the sow- 
ings are usually made on a 
limited scale. 

Uses. — The young leaves 
are used for mixing in salads. 
Very rarely cultivated in England. It is a widely distributed and 
common native plant in sandy and stony places, especially near 
the sea. 




Buck's-horn or Hart's-horn Plantain, or Star 
of the Earth natural size ; separate 
leaves, k natural size). 



EDIBLE BURDOCK, or GOBO 

Lappa ediilis^ Hort. CompositcB. 
French, Bardane geante. Japanese, Gobo. 

Native of Japan. — Biennial. — Radical leaves very large, heart- 
shaped, somewhat resembling those of the Patience Dock, but not 
so much elongated ; stem red, very branching ; flowers violet-red, 
in heads bearing hooked scales like those of the Common Burdock ; 
roots of the kind known as tap-roots, cylindrical, rather fleshy and 
tender when they are young ; seeds oblong, grayish, with a hard 
covering, resembling that of the Artichoke. Their germinating 
power lasts for five years. 

It is doubtful whether this plant is specifically distinct from the 
Common Burdock (^Arctium Lappa), a very common weed in all parts 
of Europe. It is certainly larger in all its parts, but this might be 
the result of cultivation, as it has long been grown in Japan in 
exactly the same manner as Salsafy and Scorzonera arc with us. 

Uses. — The roots, which grow from i ft. to 16 in. long, are 
boiled and served up in various ways. The plant was introduced 



ii6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



into Europe from Japan by the traveller Von Siebold, who says 
that it succeeded well in his garden at Leyden. In order to have 
the root tender and agreeable to the taste, it should be used when 
it is two and a half or three months grown. If it is left until it is 
fully grown, it branches and becomes hard and almost woody, so 
that it is not surprising that when sent to table in that state, it has 
often been pronounced detestably bad, whereas if eaten when 
young, as it is by the Japanese, although it cannot be termed 

delicious, it is certainly not a bad 
vegetable. 

Almost all hardy biennial plants 
with fleshy roots should be experi- 
mented on with the view of con- 
verting them into kitchen-garden 
vegetables, and many, perhaps, 
might be available for this purpose 
under the condition of their roots 
being not too fibrous, nor possess- 
ing any disagreeable flavour which 
cooking would not remove. The 
Wild Carrot and the Wild Beet 
are not superior in quality to the 
Burdock, and the second of these 
plants certainly has a more dis- 
agreeable flavour, and yet continued 
cultivation and persevering selection 
have converted these two plants into 
Edible Burdock, orGobo natural size), excellent vegetables,producing roots 

which are large, tender, and well 
tasted, at least when they are cooked, and quite difl"erent from what 
they are in the wild state. There is no reason, then, why the Burdock 
should not be a good table vegetable, if the plant appears to be 
worth the trouble. It is hardy, vigorous, and of rapid growth ; its 
roots are long and naturally fleshy, and consequently can be 
increased in size and made tender by judicious cultivation. At the 
present moment, in the condition in which we now have the plant, a 
bed of it will yield as heavy a crop as a bed of Salsafy, and in half 
or one-third of the time. As a vegetable it is deserving of serious 
consideration. 




SALAD BURNET 

Poterium Sanguisorba, L. Rosacece. 

French, Pimprenelle petite. German, Garten-Pimpinelle. Fletnish^xi^L Dutch, Yvsxv^^xn^. 
Italian, Pimpinella. Spanish, Pimpinela. Portuguese, Pimpinella. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Radical leaves, pinnate, with an 
odd leaflet ; leaflets oval-rounded, very much toothed; stems usually 



SALAD BURNET 



ri7 



v^ery erect, i6 in. to 2 ft. high, angular, branching, and ending in 
spikes of female flowers, the flower at the base being male or 
hermaphrodite ; seeds oval, four-angled, with more or less pro- 
minent ridges on the angles, 
and reticulated on the sides 
Their germindting power 
lasts for three years. The 
Salad Burnet is an exceed- 
ingly hardy and long-lived 
plant, and grows wild 
through the greater part of 
France. 

Culture.— The seed is 
sown in spring or at the 
end of summer, usually in 
drills 10 to 12 in. apart. It 
is often grown as an edging 
to beds of other vegetables, 
and may also be sown in 
beds by itself. The plants 
do not require any attention. 
The leaves are cut for use with a knife or sickle, and successional 
cuttings are made so as to have a constant supply of fresh young 
leaves. Leaves are produced in greater abundance and for a longer 
time if the plants are not allowed to flower. 

Uses. — The young, tender leaves are used as salad ; they have 
a peculiar flavour, resembling that of the Green Cucumber. 




Garden Burnet. 



CABBAGE 

Brassica oleracea, L. Cruciferce^ 

French^ Chou cultive. German^ Kohl, Kraut. Flemish and DuUh, Kool. Danish^ Kaal. 
Italian^ Cavolo. Spanish^ Col. Portuguese, Couve. 

Cabbage, a plant which is indigenous to Europe and Western 
Asia, is one of the vegetables which have been cultivated from the 
earliest times. The ancients were well acquainted with it, and 
certainly possessed several varieties of the head-forming kinds. 
The great antiquity of its culture may be inferred from the 
immense numbers of varieties which are now in existence, and 
from the very important modifications which have been produced 
in the characteristics of the original or parent plant. 

The Wild Cabbage, such as it still exists on the coasts of 
England and France, is a perennial plant with broad, lobed, 
undulated, thick, smooth leaves, covered with a glaucous bloom. 



ii8 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN • 

The stem attains a height of from nearly 2^ to over 3 ft., and 
bears at the top a spike of yellow, or sometimes white, flowers. 
All the cultivated varieties present the same characters in their 
inflorescence, but, up to the time of flowering, they exhibit most 
marked differences from each other and from the original wild 
plant. In most of the Cabbages, it is chiefly the leaves that are 
developed by cultivation ; these, for the most part, become 
imbricated or overlap one another closely, so as to form a more 
or less compact head, the heart or interior of which is composed 
of the central undeveloped shoot and the younger leaves next 
it. The shape of the head is spherical, sometimes flattened, 
sometimes conical. All the varieties which form heads in this 
way are known by the general name of Cabbages {Choux pommes), 
while other kinds with large branching leaves, which never form 
heads, are distinguished by the name of Borecole or Kale 
(Choux verts). 

In some kinds, the flower-stems have been so modified by 
culture as to become transformed into a thick, fleshy, tender mass, 
the growth and enlargement of which are produced at the expense 
of the flowers, which are absorbed and rendered abortive. Such are 
the Broccolis and Cauliflowers. In other kinds, the leaves retain 
their ordinary dimensions, while the stem, or the principal root, has 
been brought by cultivation to assume the shape of a large ball or 
Turnip, as in the case of the plants known as Kohl-Rabi {Choux- 
raves) and Turnip-rooted Cabbage or Swedish Turnip [CJioux- 
navets). And, lastly, there are varieties in which cultivation and 
selection have produced modifications in the ribs of the leaves (as 
in the Couve Tronchuda), or in the axillary shoots (as in Brussels 
Sprouts), or in several organs together (as in the Marrow Kales 
and the Neapolitan Curled Kale). We make no mention here of 
the Colza, another variety, grown exclusively for the sake of its 
seeds, from which an oil is obtained, and which, therefore, is 
to be classed amongst the plants which are grown for economic 
or manufacturing purposes. 

Culture. — The different kinds of Cabbages vary so much in 
constitution and treatment that it is impossible to lay down precise 
rules for the cultivation even of each entire class or section. We 
shall, therefore, when describing each variety, give instructions as 
to the proper times for sowing and planting it, merely mentioning 
here a few particulars which are applicable to the cultivation of 
almost all kinds of Cabbages. Further information as to cultivation 
will be found under the head of Early Cabbages, and also under the 
Drumhead varieties. 

A cool moist climate seems to be the most suitable of all for the 
culture of Cabbages, which generally grow to greater perfection in 
districts near the sea-coast than they do in either low-lying or 



CABBAGE 



elevated inland parts of the country. Heat and drought are 
injurious to them, while they grow well in moist, foggy weather, 
even when somewhat cold. They like a clayey, rather stiff soil, 
rich in manure and decayed organic matter ; they do not seem to 
mind a little sourness in the soil, and grow well in ground that has 
been newly broken up. In the kitchen-garden. Cabbages should 
occupy the coolest and moistest positions, except the early spring 
kinds, which require a warm and sheltered aspect ; the ground 
should be deeply dug and plentifully manured, and always kept 
clean and free from weeds. The plants must be watered from 
time to time during the summer, and care be taken to prevent 
them from being overrun by the caterpillars of the white 
Cabbage butterfly, which, if not attended to, will damage them 
severely. 



Sowing a.nd PLANTiNG.*^The 
most important sowings of Cabbage 
are those which are required to form 
a supply through the spring and 
early summer months. These sow- 
ings should consist of several 
varieties that succeed each other 
in coming into use. However, very 
early kinds should not be sown too 
early in the summer, as there is a 
possibility of their running to seed 
in dry weather. From the middle 
of July to the middle of August 
is the time usually chosen for sow- 
ing ; but much will depend upon 
the season, soil, and locality. The 
beginning of August will in most 
places be found to be the best. 
Plants from seeds sown at that time 
are generally ready to plant out by 
the end of September or beginning 
of October, and they have then 
ample time to get established before 
the winter sets in. For autumn 
supply a sowing should be made 
from the middle of March to the 
beginning of April, and planted out 
in June and July — they then come 
into use in August and September ; 
and if a second and rather larger 
sowing be made in the last week 
in April, and planted out in July 
and August, they will come into 
use from October to December ; and 

* See 



a small sowing of a dwarf kind 
that hearts quickly, sown in May, 
will form nice little heads for use 
in January, which, with the Greens 
produced from the stumps of those 
that have been cut, will last until 
the spring Cabbage comes in. Cab- 
bage plants intended to stand the 
winter are best planted with a 
crowbar in firm undug ground, such 
as has recently carried a crop of 
Onions, or other surface-rooting 
plants that have not impoverished 
the ground too much. The ground 
must, of course, have been well 
manured for the crop previous to 
Cabbage, or good results cannot be 
expected. A firm, stiff, rich soil is 
best for Cabbages ; for if grown in 
loose, light soil, they do not " heart " 
so well, neither is the quality so 
good. Cabbage seed should at all 
times be sown on light rich land, 
and the plants should not be allowed 
to overcrowd each other before they 
are put out, but as soon as large 
enough to handle be pricked out 
6 or 8 in. apart, or be thinned out, 
and the remainder transferred to 
their final positions as soon as they 
are sufficiently large. The distance 
to plant them apart depends upon 
the variety grown; but 2 ft. between 
the rows, and from 15 to 18 in. from 

also p. 759. 



I20 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



plant to plant in the rows, will 
generally be found sufficient space 
if the ground be in good heart. 

Cutting.*— A little more atten- 
tion might be paid to this than 
is generally the case ; for although 
Cauliflowers and Brussels Sprouts 
cannot always be had just when 
wanted, tender Cabbage may be 
had with very little management. 
Supposing we plant Cabbages in 
autumn, they will come into use 
tender towards the beginning of 
summer; but if the household be 
generally not able to use them as 
fast as they grow, the heads are 
allowed to swell until they burst, 
or go to seed or rot, and eventually 
become quite useless for cooking 
purposes. In gardens from which 
large houses have to be supplied, 
Cabbages are generally wanted as 
soon as they are ready, and a number 
of heads are cut daily; but the 
experienced gardener does not cut 
the head off at the surface of the 
soil, but just at the neck, leaving 
a few of the bottom leaves. Con- 
sequently, before the quarter has 
been cut over the first-cut plants 
have made another break, and be- 
come furnished with a whole cluster 
of young succulent heads, which 
heart immediately, and are fit to 
cut before the first heads are quite 
finished. The plants will even 
break and heart a third time, and 
in this way a plot of Cabbage may 
be made to afford a supply nearly 
all the year round The vigour, 
free growth, and tenderness of the 
heads will iDe greatly promoted by 
frequent stirrings of the soil between 
the rows, and mulching with any 
loose material, such as short Grass 
or leaves, at command. Cut your 
Cabbages, therefore, even if you 
have to give them away to your 
neighbours, before the heads get 
over-ripe and useless, and you will 

* See 



have a continuance of young and 
tender heads, which are greatly to 
be preferred to those which are 
large, white, and hard. 

The Cabbage is one of the most 
important of green vegetables for 
market-garden culture, and although 
not considered by many so profitable 
on account of its gross-feeding char- 
acter, it comes into use when there 
is little else to send to market, and 
often realises high prices. In spring 
large areas of Cabbages may be seen 
about Wandsworth, Fulham, Gun- 
nersbury, and, in fact, all round the 
suburbs of London. The Cabbages 
sent to market in April, May, and 
June are the produce of seed sown 
in July, and the plants are put out 
in September or early in October. 
Succession crops are sown in spring 
as soon as the weather is favourable. 
If sown too soon, as is sometimes 
done, the young leaves get injured 
by frosts, especially if these occur 
immediately after a period of mild 
weather. 

The Enfield Market Cabbage is 
that which is principally used in the 
market gardens about London. It 
is one of the oldest in cultivation, 
and one of the best, and for this 
reason the growers generally save 
their own seed, and take great care 
that their plants of it are not crossed 
with other sorts. The newer 
variety. Early Paris Market Cab- 
bage, could easily take the place of 
the Enfield Market Cabbage, and 
with advantage for all purposes. 
The sowing for the principle crop 
of these Cabbages is generally made 
about the end of July and up to the 
middle of August, on poor ground 
if possible, as in that case the plants 
come up stocky and hardy, and 
stand the winter well ; whereas, if 
made on rich ground, a soft rank 
growth is produced, which is much 
more easily injured. This sowing 
Iso p. 760. 



CABBAGE 121 



is, as a rule, made in 4 ft. wide beds 
— a width found to be convenient 
for weeding and hoeing amongst 
the plants. When sufficiently strong 
to be transplanted, they are planted 
on ground cleared of Onions or 
Potatoes, and a second batch is 
planted on land cleared of Celery, 
French Beans, or Vegetable Mar- 
rows. Every empty space, under 
fruit trees or elsewhere, is planted 
with Cabbages. In planting, the 
ground is lined off into rows, 30 in. 
apart, and in these the plants are 
put 15 in. asunder. Between every 
two rows first planted another is 
then put in with less care, thus 
making the plants stand 15 in. apart 
each way. Early in spring the alter- 
nate lines of plants, and also every 
other plant in the lines or rows left, 
are lifted and sold as Coleworts. 
This allows the permanent crop 
plenty of room to come to maturity. 
With a view to subsequent planta- 
tions, which are made all through 
the winter wherever ground is 
vacant, the young plants in seed- 
beds are removed and pricked out 
into others a little farther apart, 
in order to keep them in good 
condition for planting out as long as 
possible. In this way, indeed, many 
of the plants are kept till spring, 
when they are transplanted to suc- 
ceed those placed out in autumn. 
They will thus come in before the 
produce of the spring sowings, made 
late in February or early in March, 
to furnish Cabbages from June to 
August. The plants from this sow- 



ing are put out in rows 2 or 2| ft. 
apart, and in the intervening spaces 
are put lines of Lettuces, a plant of 
which is also set between every 
Cabbage in the row In May men 
may be often noticed busily engaged 
in tying up early Cabbages in the 
market gardens at Fulham and else- 
where. The operation is simple- 
just, in fact, that adopted in the 
case of Cos Lettuces. The succulent 
outer leaves are folded carefully 
around the heart or centre of the 
plant, and the whole is bound firmly 
with a withy or a piece of bast. 
There are several good reasons for 
this practice. The centre being 
protected from the weather, the 
Cabbages heart sooner than they 
otherwise would do, and they are 
more easily handled in gathering 
and packing for market. Early 
Cabbages, the leaves of which are 
so brittle, would lose half their value 
if some precaution of this kind were 
not taken to keep them from being 
broken by loading and unloading 
them. 

Red Cabbages are sown in March, 
but the produce of the July sowing 
is generally considered better than 
that of spring. The plants are put 
out in rows from 3I to 4 ft. apart, 
and the plants stand about 3 ft. 
asunder in the rows. As this crop 
stands until the heads are large and 
solid, a piece of rich land is de- 
voted to it, and intercropped with 
Potatoes, ordinary Cabbages, Let- 
tuces, French Beans, or other vege- 
tables of that kind. 



The different sections of Cabbages differ perceptibly from one 
another in the size of the seed, the Borecoles and Kohl-Rabi pro- 
ducing the largest seed ; next to these, the ordinary Round-headed 
varieties and the Turnip-rooted Cabbage or Swedish Turnip ; and, 
lastly, the Cauliflowers and Broccolis, which have the smallest seed 
of all. 

Uses. — The leaves of the common headed varieties and of the 



122 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Borecoles are cooked in various ways, or used in salads, as in 
America, or fermented so as to form what is termed Sauer-kraut. 
The heads of the Cauliflowers and Broccolis, the stems of the Kohl- 
Rabi, the roots of the Turnip-rooted and the Swedish Turnip, and 
the small heads which grow along the stems of the Brussels Sprouts 
are most usually eaten boiled, although they are also well treated 
in other ways by foreign cooks. The very commonness and cheap- 
ness of Cabbages leads to the ignoring of their existence on the 
part of many superior persons. It is a great mistake, as they are 
by far the most precious vegetables we have, eaten young, in the 
right season, and well cooked. Though forms of the same wild 
plant, the variety of flavours is remarkable. It is not more remark- 
able, however, than the way the common cook usually spoils this 
vegetable. In the hotels and restaurants it is usually an un- 
appetising mess, heavily charged with soda. The best cookery of 
Cabbages may frequently be observed among cottagers and ser- 
vants brought up in country cottages. One result of the neglect cf 
Cabbage on the part of the affluent is that they miss some of the 
most delicate and wholesome vegetables we have, in various little- 
known forms of this family, which will be described farther on in 
this book. This vegetable in its wondrous variety is better fitted 
for our country than for any other, and comes to greatest per- 
fection in it. To despise it and neglect it is a mistake and a loss. 
Those possessing good gardens would do well to grow and use 
the more delicately flavoured forms and those best suited to 
their localities, and thus lead the poor to a fuller knowledge of 
things so easy for all to grow, and which yield so abundantly. 
Under the best conditions, not a few of them are as good as any 
vegetable that is grown, and, if rare, they would be sought as 
delicacies. 

This question of cooking is undoubtedly of paramount importance, and 
must necessarily have an immense influence upon the use of many other- 
wise excellent vegetables, of which Cabbage is a typical example. It may, 
therefore, not be out of place here to give a few indications as to the way 
Cabbage is usually cooked and used in France, ist. As a soup {soupe aux 
choux). — The head of a Cabbage or of a Savoy is freed of its outer leaves, 
cut in two or four, washed and placed in cold salted water on the fire, 
adding a few Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes, and a fair-sized piece of bacon or 
ham. Let boil slowly at least three hours. 2nd. As a vegetable. — The 
head is cut into small pieces, washed, put in boiling salted water on the 
fire, and cooked for half an hour, then placed in a strainer. Cook 
sausages or lean bacon cut in small pieces, and when done add to the 
Cabbage, and let all slowly simmer together until the time for serving. 
3rd. As a garnishing. — Take only the white heart of some Cabbages, cook 
for half an hour as above, strain, mince and place in a stewpan with butter 
and a little broth, and let simmer slowly until time for serving. * 

* Cabbages Clubbing, see p. 776. 




THE COMMON CABBAGE 

Brassica oleracea capitata, D.C. 



THE COMMON CABBAGE 



123 



French, Chou cabus, C. pomme. German, Kopfkohl, Kraut. Flemish, Kabuiscool. 
Dutch, Slutkool. Danish, Hoved kaal. Italian, Cavolo cappuccio. Spanish, 
Col repoUo. Portuguese, Couve repolho. 

This section is usually divided into two classes — viz. the 
Smooth-leaved and the Curled-leaved or Milan (Savoy) kinds. In 
describing the varieties of both classes, we shall do so, as far as 
possible, in the order of their respective degrees of earliness, at the 
same time duly noting the affinities of the different kinds. 

Early York Cabbage. — We commence our descriptions of 
Cabbages with this variety, because, although it is not the earliest 
of all, it is one of the best known and most generally cultivated of 
early kinds, and it will be easier to characterise the analogous 
varieties by comparing them with it. The head is an oval or 



reversed-cone shape, oblong, nearly twice as long as broad, small, 
and fairly compact. Leaves dark green, with a slight bluish, 
glaucous, or gray tinge on the under-side, the outer ones of those 
which form the head covering the others like a hood ; those on the 
very outside, which do not help to form the head, are few in number, 
and bent back in the contrary direction, often having the edges 
turned towards the midrib on the back, and very smooth; veins 
rather broad, of a greenish white ; stem slender, and about the 
same length as the head. 

The Sttperfine Early is a sub-variety of the Early York, from 
which it hardly differs in appearance, with the exception of being 
dwarfer and about a week earlier. 

Large York Cabbage. — Larger in all its parts than the pre- 
ceding kind, this variety has the head thicker and stouter in 
proportion to its length, the transverse diameter being about two- 
thirds of the length. The outer leaves are stiffer, firmer, and 




Early Dwarf York Cabbage. 



Large York Cabbage i^^^ natural size). 



124 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



broader, and usually not so bluish in tint ; the stem also is shorter 
in proportion. This is an excellent early kind, very productive, and 
of good quality. The only fault, perhaps, which it has is that it 
takes up rather too much ground for the size of the head, in con- 
sequence of the large outside leaves spreading so much in the 
horizontal direction. 

Sugar-loaf Cabbage. — Head very long like a reversed sugar- 
loaf in shape, regularly oblong, and at least twice as long as broad, 
very like a Cos Lettuce in form, whence its French name of Chou 
Chicon ; leaves pale or light green on the upper surface and whitish 
green underneath, long spoon-shape, and covering each other in a 
remarkable manner with their hood-shaped tops to form the head ; 
outer leaves erect, like those of a Cos Lettuce ; stem comparatively 
short, being not more than a third or half the length of the head. 
This variety is very distinct and productive, and is almost as early 



as the preceding kind. Like the two foregoing kinds, it answers as 
well for sowing in autumn as in spring, and, growing tall and 
slender, it does not occupy much ground relatively to the size of 
its head. It is also slow in running to seed — a good quality for 
which it deserves to be specially mentioned. It is somewhat 
singular that, although a very old variety and well known in 
every country in Europe, it does not appear to be extensively 
grown anywhere. 

Early Ox-heart Cabbage. — The shape of the head of this 
variety is well expressed by its name, and is that of a short, thick- 
set, blunt-pointed cone, the length of which does not exceed the 
breadth by more than one-fourth or one-fifth. The outer leaves 
are broad and nearly round, and less glaucous than those of the 
York Cabbages ; those which form the head are rather wrapped 
round each other than hood-shaped. The stem is rather short, 
being shorter than the head, which begins to form very early, and 




THE COMMON CABBAGE 



125 



is fit to cut about the same time as the Early York. The Ox-heart 
Cabbage may be considered the type of a rather numerous class, to 
which the following varieties belong : — 

Express Cabbage. — An early, short-stemmed variety, which 

An Etampes Cabbage 



begins to head with the fifth or sixth leaf 







Express Extra Early Cabbage. 



Early Etampes Cabbage. 



on a reduced scale, it has the chief characteristics of that variety 
with greater earliness. Like the Early Ox-heart and the Early 
York Cabbage, it may be planted very close.* 

Early Etampes Cabbage. — From several comparative trials 
which we have made, this variety seems to be, after the preceding 
one, the earliest of all 
the headed Cabbages. In 
most points it resembles 
the Early Ox-heart, but 
it has a longer and more 
conical head, and is also 
a somewhat bulkier plant. 
It was raised by M. 
Bonnemain, Secretary of 
the Etampes Horticul- 
tural Society, and is 
well adapted for spring 
culture. 

Jersey Wakefield 
Cabbage. — This variety 
is well distinguished from 
the other forms of Ox- 
heart Cabbages by the 
yellow tint and very stiff 
texture of its leaves, and 
it has a longer stalk than 
any of the Ox-heart Cabbages properly so called. The outer leaves 
* Enfield Market, see p. 761. New Varieties, see p. 762. 




Jersey Wakefield Cabbage. 



126 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



are pale glaucous green, rounded in shape, very faintly undulated at 
the edges, and remarkably firm and stiff ; those which immediatel)' 
surround the head are often hollowed like a spoon. The head 
itself, a very pale green, is short, blunt, and conical, and often 
tinged with red on the side exposed to the sun. This is an early 
and productive variety, and the head keeps firm for a considerable 
length of time — an important advantage when it is grown as a 
field crop. 

Early Paris Market Cabbage {Chou Cceur-de-bceuj Moyen). — 
An early variety; raised by the Paris market gardeners. The 
head is not quite so high as that of the Etampes Cabbage, but is 
rounder and broader at the base. The head develops very rapidly 
as soon as it has begun to form, yielding the heaviest crop in the 
shortest time. An excellent substitute for the Enfield Market 
Cabbage, to which it is altogether superior. 




Early Paris Market Cabbage. Prince's Nonpareil Cabbage, 



The Chou Prefin de Boulogne is a sub-variety of the Ox-heart, 
remarkable for its earliness, and easily distinguished by its light 
colour and the broadness of the ribs, which spread like a fan 
over the whole width of the leaf The Early Louviers Cabbage, 
another sub-variety of the Ox-heart, very much resembles the 
Etampes Cabbage, but it is not so early, and has a somewhat 
shorter head. The Chou Prompt de Saint-Malo, which is a little 
larger, and has broader leaves and a rather shorter and broader 
head than the foregoing kinds, has, like them, been advantageously 
superseded by the Very Early Etampes variety. 

Prince's Nonpareil or Barnes' Early Dwarf Cabbage.— Inter- 
mediate between the Ox-heart and the Tourlaville varieties comes 
one which is very extensively grown in England under the name of 
*' Nonpareil." This is an early kind, with a rather long but blunt 
conical head, and leaves dark green on the upper surface, and very 
coarsely crimped. It differs from the Tourlaville variety in not 
having the leaf-stalk bare at the base, nor the leaves so much 



THE COMMON CABBAGE 



127 



twisted in shape. It is a good early variety, requiring about the 
sanne time to come to perfection as the Large York. 

The variety named Enfield Market, of which the Nonpareil 
appears to be a good sub-variety, is not quite so early, and may be 
ranked among the Ox-heart varieties. 

Tourlaville Early Cabbage.— The head of this variety is rather 
long and pointed, and is formed by the leaves being wrapped upon 
each other in such a manner that some of them contribute only 
their lower part to its formation, while they stand clear of it in the 
upper part. Leaves large and broad, very dark green, and with 
H^ribs very thick and round near the stem, curving abruptly so as to 
press the leaves close to the head. This is a very distinct, early, 




Tourlaville Early Cabbage Large Ox-heart Cabbage. 

(yV natural size). 



and vigorous variety, and is sent to Paris in large quantities at the 
close of the winter from the neighbourhood of Cherbourg, where it 
is extensively grown. When cultivated outside of its native district, 
it does not appear to possess any marked superiority over the 
ordinary Ox-heart kinds, and, besides, it is rather variable in its 
leaves, which are sometimes smooth and sometimes crimped. 

Large Ox-heart Cabbage. — A vigorous and productive kind, 
heading very soon, coming in a fortnight or three weeks later 
than the Early Ox-heart, but growing three or four times the size 
of that variety. Outer leaves large, rounded, rather thick, and 
darker in colour above than underneath ; head large, very obtusely 
conical, and somewhat gray-green ; stem rather short, seldom more 
than two-thirds of the length of the head. This is a good variety 
for market-garden culture on a large scale — approaching field 
culture. It is hardy enough to require but little attention when 
growing, and when the heads are formed they maintain their 
compactness longer than the early varieties without bursting or 
losing shape too speedily. 



128 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Lingreville Cabbage.— Stem rather short ; leaves large, pale, 
almost light green, moderately undulated and crimped, soon 
forming a head of an oblong and almost pointed shape, by 
twisting themselves over one another rather than taking the 
ordinary hood or cap form. In appearance and size, this variety 
is almost intermediate between the Tourlaville and the Early 
Bacalan varieties, and, as in those two kinds, the formation of the 
head is commenced by leaves which are at some distance from 
each other on the stem. In the axils of these lower leaves, shoots 
sometimes grow which form small heads themselves about as large 
as an apple or an orange. The variety which produces these 
secondary heads is known in Normandy by the name of CJwu 
Gt^appe or CJiou Grappn. 

Early Bacalan Cabbage. — Head oblong, conical, thick, and 
rather compact, resembling that of the Ox-heart variety, but 




Lingreville Cabbage. Early Bacalan Cabbage (^V natural size). 



perceptibly longer ; leaves large, very slightly crimped, and 
undulated on the edges ; stem longish. Although larger than the 
Ox-heart variety, this is equally early, and especially adapted for 
the mild seaside climate of the west of France. It appears to have 
been raised at Saint-Brieuc, whence it was brought to Bordeaux, 
and is very largely grown and highly esteemed in both these 
localities, especially for autumn sowing. 

Large Bacalan Cabbage. — When this variety comes true to 
name, it is distinguished from the preceding one by its somewhat 
larger size and by its more compact and rather more pointed head. 
There are all kinds of intermediate forms between these two 
varieties, which were themselves identical in origin. The Large 
Bacalan heads almost as soon as the preceding kind and keeps 
its shape better. 

Here ends the series of varieties which may be considered as 
forming one group with the Ox-heart kinds. We shall add to the 



THE COMMON CABBAGE 



129 



list of Early Cabbages three round or flat-headed varieties, which 
by their earliness and smallness of size are clearly distinguished 

from the kinds commonly 
known as Large Smooth- 
leaved Cabbages, the series 
of which commences with 
the description of the Saint- 
Denis Cabbage. 




Large Bacalan Cabbage 
i-^ natural size). 




St. John's Day Dwarf Drumhead 
Cabbage (^ij natural size). 



St. John's Day Dwarf Drumhead Cabbage. — A very distinct 
variety, with an extremely short stem. Head very hard and 
compact, rather broad than long, and somewhat bulging in the 
upper part ; outer leaves not very numerous, deep green, and very 
smooth ; those forming the head of a paler green. This variety is 
very extensively grown in Anjou and Lower Brittany. In the 
neighbourhood of Paris it does not easily withstand a very cold 
and damp winter. In its native district it is chiefly sown in 
autumn for a spring crop ; grown in this way, the heads are not so 
flat as they turn out when the sowing is made in spring, 

Flat Parisian or Early Spring Cabbage. — A very short- 
stemmed variety with a broad, flat, slightly rounded head. It has but 

few outer leaves, and its 
colour is a light vivid green. 
A very early cabbage, 





Flat Parisian Cabbage. 



Small Early Erfurt Cabbage 
(-jV natural size). 



admirably suited for market-gardens, and usually grown around 
Paris along with the second-early varieties of the Ox-heart type. 

9 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Smair Early Erfurt Cabbage. — A very handsome little variety, 
an almost exact miniature of the Hundredvveight Drumhead 
Cabbage. Stem short ; head flattened ; outer leaves marked 
with a great number of white veins. It does best when sown 
in spring, as autumn-sown plants are apt to run to seed without 
heading. 

Henderson's Early Summer Cabbage. — This variety, which 
is of American origin and rather esteemed in the United 
States, cannot be more properly placed than next after the 
preceding kind, which it much resembles in size and appearance. 
It has, however, a longer stalk, a thicker head, and leaves of 
a grayer tint. In earliness, it comes immediately after the 
Jersey Wakefield Cabbage, and before all the other large-headed 
Cabbages. 

Culture. — The Early Cabbages, among which may be classed 
all the varieties which have just been enumerated (except, perhaps, 
the Large Bacalan Cabbage), are usually sown about Paris during 
the last ten days of August, or the first ten days of September. 
In October, the seedlings are either planted out permanently, or 
else pricked out into a bed, where they are allowed to remain until 
they are planted out permanently in spring. In well-drained, 
warm, light soils, they may be generally planted out permanently at 
the end of autumn ; but in damp soils, or in localities which are 
exposed to severe frosts and snow or excessive rains, it is better not 
to plant out permanently until after winter is over. The earliest 
York Cabbages should be planted in warm and sheltered positions 
in a bed with a south aspect. In February, it is a good plan to 
make a sowing of early kinds on a hot-bed, pricking out the 
seedlings on a hot-bed also, and using the plants thus obtained to 
fill up vacancies caused by any of the autumn-sown plants having 
either perished from the severity of the winter or run to seed 
prematurely under the influence of unusually mild weather. Early 
Cabbages may also be sown in spring, from March to May, and 
planted out as soon as the seedlings are big enough, if there 
is ground ready to receive them. This is the simplest and 
easiest way of growing them, but it is not so much practised 
as sowing in autumn, as these early varieties are mostly grown 
for spring crops. 

SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 

Saint-Denis Drumhead Cabbage.— This variety, which is one 
of the most extensively grown about Paris, and also one of the 
oldest, may very aptly be placed first on the list in the enumeration 
of the different varieties of Smooth-leaved Drumhead Cabbages, as- 



SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 131 



its well-known characteristics will serve as points of comparison to 
which we shall refer other varieties of foreign origin or more recent 
introduction. It has a longish stem, quite as long, at least, as the 
head, which is round, depressed, and almost flat when fully grown, 
and of a wine-lees-red colour on the top. Outer leaves large, 
rather stiff, the lower part closely pressed against the head, and the 
upper part turned backwards, rather deep and glaucous green, and 
rounded in outline, entire, not toothed nor undulated ; veins rather 
large, and pale green. In the neighbourhood of Paris it is usually 
sown from March to May, and the heads are cut in the autumn up 
to the commencement of winter. 

A sub-variety of the Saint-Denis, which is a little earlier, was 
for a long time grown under the name of Chou de Bonneuil^ but it 
has now either gone out of cultivation or become mixed up with 
the ordinary variety. And yet, if we refer to the descriptions of 



the two kinds which were published over a century ago, it would 
appear as if it was really the old Saint-Denis variety which has 
gradually disappeared and been superseded by the Chou de Bonneuil. 
The characteristics of the latter, as described in the eighteenth 
century, were, in fact, the same as those which we recognise at the 
present day in the Saint-Denis Cabbage, while the variety which 
was then named Saint-Denis had a fuller and less flattened head 
and a longer stem, and resembled the Late Flat Dutch Cabbage 
up to a certain point. 

Late St. John's Day Cabbage {Chou Joanet tardif), — Stem 
shorter than that of the preceding kind ; head rounder and not so 
broad ; outer leaves smaller, rounder, and a deeper green. The 
plant does not take up so much ground as the Saint-Denis, and 
comes in some days earlier, but it does not appear to bear frost 
so well. The stem is so short that the head seems almost to rest 
on the ground. . 




^' ^ ^^s^zr .'j^' f^^-*^ 

Saint-Denis Drumhead Cabbage 
(yV natural size). 



Late St. John's Day Cabbage 
natural size). 



132 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Early Dutch Drumhead, or Early Dwarf Flat Dutch 
Cabbage. — A short-stemmed variety very like the Large St. 
John's Day Cabbage. It is not quite so early as that, and is 
also sometimes brown on top. Both varieties are well suited for 
market-garden culture, their heads being close and firm. 

Short-stemmed Brunswick Cabbage. — An excellent kind, very 
distinct, and highly deserving of recommendation. Leaves and head 




Early Dutch Drumhead Cabbage Short-stemmed Brunswick Cabbage 

(iV natural size). (tV natural size). 



a fine clear green, far less glaucous than those of the Saint-Denis, 
and with less of the gray tinge than those of the Hundredweight 
Drumhead ; head thick and broad, very much depressed, and quite 
flattened on the top ; outer leaves growing closely against the 
under-part and sides of the head, which, from the shortness of the 
stem, appears to be almost resting on the ground. The plant is 
almost as early as the Saint-Denis Cabbage. 

The Large Late Flat Brunswick Cabbage, which has a longer 
stem and a less flattened head, has not been much grown since 

the present kind, which is 
superior to it in every re- 
spect, became more generally 
known. 

Schweinfurt Quintal 
Drumhead Cabbage.— 
This is the largest, if not the 
most productive, of all the 
Cabbages, and is, at the same 
time, a very early kind. 
When sown in April, it 
may be cut at the end of 
August or in September. 
The head is remarkably 
broad, frequently attaining a diameter of 20 in. and more ; it is, 
like the outer leaves, a pale green, crossed with white veins, and 
often tinged with brown or violet-red, rather soft and deficient 




Schweinfurt Quintal Drumhead Cabbage, 



SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 133 




Fumel Cabbage. 



in compactness and weight ; nevertheless, a good kind for the 
kitchen-gardens of farms or large establishments, on account of 
its productiveness and earliness. 

Fumel Cabbage. — This kind, and also the two following 
varieties, might be considered as intermediate between the Smooth- 
leaved Cabbages and the 
Savoy Cabbages, as the 
leaves are coarsely 
crimped and almost 
curled. We shall, how- : 
ever, follow the usual 
custom in classing them - 
with the Smooth-leaved - 
kinds, and they cannot 
be more properly placed 
than next to the Schwein- 
furt Cabbage, which they 
resemble in their earliness and in the softness of the head. The 
Fumel Cabbage appears to have originated in the south of France ; 
at least, it is very much grown there, and also in Algeria. It 
has a very short stem, and not many outside leaves, which spread 
horizontally close to the ground, are of a dark green colour, and 
broadly crimped. The head, on the other hand, is very light in 
colour, loose, broad, and very much flattened ; it is almost as large 
as that of the Saint-Denis Cabbage, but not nearly so heavy, and 
goes out of shape very soon. This is one of the earliest of all 
the Cabbages, but it does not appear to answer the climate of 
northern districts, where it rots too easily. 

Early Habas Cabbage. — A variety grown in all the south- 
western districts of France, where it is sometimes confounded with 

the following kind. It is 
a pretty early Cabbage, 
with a short stem, and 
numerous crimped leaves, 
rather light in colour, 
the lower ones almost 
spreading on the ground , 
the inner leaves form a 
rather loose head of a 
yellowish green colour. 

Dax Drumhead 
Cabbage. — Stem pretty 
long; leaves very numerous, coarsely crimped, of a darker and more 
glaucous green than those of the preceding kind, and resembling 
those of the Large Drumhead Savoy to some extent ; head round, 
seldom well formed, at least in the climate of Paris, and always rather 




Early Habas Cabbage (^V natural size). 



134 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




small in comparison with the luxuriance of the leaves. A half-late 

variety, which appears to 
^^~KM^tJ^\ be of little account outside 

of its native locality. 

Late Flat Dutch 
Drumhead Cabbage. — 
Head rather large, round, 
somewhat depressed in 
shape, very full and firm ; 
outer leaves pretty nume- 
rous, large, and clinging, 
broadly crimped to some 
extent. This variety has a 

Dax Drumhead Cabbage (y^ natural size). longer Stem and is more 

glaucous and later than the Saint-Denis Cabbage. Its principal 
merit is that of being exceedingly hardy and capable of enduring 
the most severe frost. 
The Ecury Cabbage, 
which is well known 
and highly esteemed in 
Champagne, resembles 
it very much. 

Hundredweight, 
Quintal, or Mason's 
Drumhead Cabbage. — 
One of the oldest and 
best Late Cabbages. 
Head broad, very large, 
very much flattened, 

and very firm ; leaves ^ate Hat Dutch Drumhead Cabbage (^V natural size). 

a pale glaucous or 

ashy green, with very numerous white veins, and the edges often 
cut or toothed ; outer leaves rather numerous, but not growing 

to a very great size, turned 
back at the tops and 
showing the head well. A 
late, very hardy, and very 
productive kind, and is 
one of the sorts which 
are most used for making 
Sauer-Kraut. Probably no 
other variety of Cabbage 
is so extensively employed 
for field culture. The 
Melsbach Cabbage appears 
to be a somewhat earlier sub-variety of this. 





Hundredweight, or Quintal, Cabbage. 



SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 135 



. Auvergne Quintal Cabbage. — A variety derived from the 
preceding one, but much larger and slower to develop. The stalk 
is very short ; the outer leaves are erect and gray-green glazed, 
with broad ribs. The leaves are only slightly crimped, but much 
undulated at the edges. The head, which is rather flat and very 
hard, is often over i J ft. in diameter. A hardy and very productive 
variety, fit for autumn and winter use on farms and in large 
gardens. Although of rather recent introduction, it has already 
spread all over the country. 

Early Winnigstadt Cabbage. — In its pointed shape, this 
variety somewhat resembles the Ox-heart Cabbages, but differs 
from them very strikingly in the close and compact manner in 
which the leaves forming the head are wrapped round each other, 
and the consequent greater hardness and firmness of the head. 
Stem short ; outer leaves large, glaucous green, and moderately 



undulated at the edges ; the inner ones are folded almost in the 
shape of a twisted or conical paper bag, and form an exceedingly solid 
and firm head, almost spherical in shape, but pointed at the top, and 
weighing heavy for its size. Although only a middling early kind, 
it is an exceedingly productive one, and cannot be too highly 
spoken of It is also one of the best for field culture. It succeeds 
much better in summer than in the autumn, and is unsuited for 
late sowings and spring use. 

Filder, or Pomeranian, Cabbage. — Stem long, usually swollen 
under the head ; outer leaves numerous and large, light green ; 
head a very long cone-shape, solid and compact, and very white at 
the heart, ending in a point formed by a leaf rolled in the shape of 
an inverted paper bag. This is a rather late variety, succeeding 
better when sown in spring than when sown in autumn, and keeping 
well for some time in winter. It is very generally grown in the 




Early Winnigstadt Cabbage. 



Filder, or Pomeranian, Cabbage 
(j^j natural size). 



136 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



differing 



and head, and the colour of the leaves, 



north of Germany, where there are a great number of local varieties, 
more or less from one another in the length of the stem 

This variety appears to us 
to be the most deserving 
of notice, as it is produc- 
tive without being very 
late. 

Green Glazed 
American Cabbage. — 

An exceedingly distinct 
variety. Stem of medium 
length ; leaves rounded, 
very firm and stiff, dark 
green, and glazed all over. 
This kind does not head 
very well, but in some 
degree resembles the 
Borecoles, differing from 
them in fulness of leaf 




Green Glazed American Cabbage (^V natural size). 



and shortness of stem. It is most suitable for spring culture, and 
is often sent to table shredded in vinegar like Red Cabbage. 

Curled-leaved Winter Cabbage {Chou gaufr^ d'hiver). — A 
compact variety, the outer leaves curiously curled at the edges and 
closely set against the head, which is round, hard, and plump, and 
impervious to the hardest winters. It is not unlike the Vaugirard 
Winter Cabbage, but is untinged with violet either on the head or 
on the leaves. It is almost 
as much grown as the 
Vaugirard for supplying 
the markets at the end of 
the winter. 

Vaugirard Cabbage.— 
Stem rather short ; outer 
leaves numerous, stiff, of 
rather dark gray - green, 
often hollowed or spoon- 
shaped, and always un- 
dulated and cut at the 
edges ; veins numerous and 
distinctly marked ; head 
round, depressed, rather 
flat, firm and hard, tinged 
with violet-red on the upper 
part, and also at the edges of the outer leaves. This is one of 
the hardiest kinds, and is very much grown in the neighbourhood 
of Paris for winter use ; it bears frost, however, better when the 




Curied-ieaved Winter Cabbage. 



SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 137 



head is not fully formed. The Parisian cultivators are careful 
not to sow it too early, seldom doing so before June, if it is 
intended to pass the winter in the open ground. 

Extra Late Amager Cabbage.— Stem tall, leaves of a peculiar 
silvery gray colour, smooth, rounded, slightly convoluted at the 
edges. Head round, only slightly flattened, weighing from 4 to 
6 lb. It is late to form, but very hard. Introduced from Denmark, 
where it stands the severest winters without any protection, it is 
the hardiest of all headed Cabbages. 

Early Dark Red Erfurt Cabbage.— A very handsome, small, 
dwarf kind, with a spherical head not much larger than a big 




Vaugirard Cabbage natural size). Cabbage (^V natural size). 

orange. Leaves round, not very numerous, dark red, almost black. 
The heart of the head, however, is not so dark. A very handsome 
little Cabbage for the kitchen-garden, taking up little space, and 
coming in early. The stem is short but well defined, as the outer 
leaves stand up well around the head, as in the Late St. John's Day 
Cabbage. This variety does not do well, unless when sown in 
spring — at least, in the neighbourhood of Paris. 

Utrecht Red Cabbage. — Stem rather long ; head round, com- 
pact, and dark red ; outer leaves rather numerous, of medium size, 
round, and rather stiff ; the 
heart of the head is not 
very deeply coloured. 

Large Red Dutch Pick- 
ling Cabbage, or Large 
Red Drumhead Cabbage. — 
Stem rather long ; outer leaves 
very large, broadly undulated 
at the edges, violet -red, 
sometimes slightly mixed 
with green, and covered 
abundantly with bloom, which 
gives them a blue tinge ; head rather large, rounded in shape, 
slightly depressed, not so deeply coloured on the outside as that 




Utrecht Red Cabbage. 



138 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



of the two preceding varieties, but much more deeply coloured 
at the heart. This variety is more productive than the Utrecht, 

and is only a few days 
later. It is the best kind 
for field culture. 

The American Mam- 
moth Rock Red Cabbage 
and Acme Red Drumhead 
Cabbage resemble much 
the Large Red Dutch 
Pickling Cabbage, but 
with them the heart is a 
little more solid. 

Red Polish Short- 
stem Cabbag-e. — A very 
distinct variety. The head 
is flat, dark red, hard and 
compact. The outer leaves 
are covered with a waxy 
coating which gives them 
a bluish look. They are undulated at the margin, and stiff like 
those of Quintal Cabbage. The stem is very short. It is a 
variety for autumn and winter use, and being extremely hardy, 
may be left very late on the ground. 

Dark Red Early Pointed-headed Cabbage. — A vigorous 
grower, with a fairly long stem, large and numerous leaves, 




Large Red Dutch Pickling Cabbage. 




Red Polish Cabbage. 



Dark Red Early Pointed-headed Cabbage. 



dark red in colour, and a firm and fairly large head, oval in shape 
and pointed at the top. 

All the kinds of Red Cabbage are used in the same ways 
as the other kinds, but they can also be eaten raw, as salad ; 



SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 139 




Marbled Burgundy Drumhead Cabbage. 



when shredded fine and pickled with vinegar, they turn a brilliant 
red colour. 

Marbled Burgundy Drumhead Cabbage. — Stem longish ; 
leaves numerous, stiff, rounded, narrowly undulated at the edges, 
pale gray-green, with red 
ribs and veins ; head 
rather small, very com- 
pact, flat on the top, 
formed of short leaves, 
which often do not quite 
cover one another, and 
leave a pit-like depression 
in the centre of the top. 
In addition to the prin- 
cipal head, other small 
heads, about the size of 
hen's eggs, and very hard 
and compact, are often 
produced in the axils of 
the lower outside leaves. It is chiefly from the marbled appearance 
of the heart of the head when cut that this variety derives its 
name. It is considered a very hardy kind, and is very extensively 
grown in the eastern districts of France and in Switzerland. 

Variegated - heading Cabbage. — A short-stemmed variety, 
with outer leaves half-erect, undulated, strongly tinged, and mottled 
with white, rose, red, and lilac on a dark green ground, which makes 
it of some value as an ornamental plant. The head, however, is 

large enough to make it 
worth growing for the 
table. 

Culture. — The 
Smooth-leaved Drumhead 
Cabbages, the series of 
which terminates here, are 
most usually sown in 
spring, from March to 
June, according to the 
varieties grown, and the 
time it is desired the crop 




Variegated-heading Cabbage. 



should come in. The sowings are made in the open ground, 
and the seedlings are pricked out as soon as possible into a 
bed, from which, as soon as the stems have grown as thick as 
a goose-quill, they are planted out permanently in well-tilled 
and richly manured ground. Plentiful waterings should be given, 
at first to ensure the rooting of the young plants, and afterwards 
to compensate for the great evaporation which takes place in 



I40 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



the long hot days of summer. Over a great part of Britain this 
is not needed. The kinds which are cut in autumn do not require 
any special treatment. Those which are for winter use should not 
be allowed to remain where they were planted, except in localities 
where the winter climate is mild ; everywhere else, they should be 
taken up and trimmed of all decaying and superfluous leaves, and 
then replanted closely in rows, in an inclined position, with the top 
of the head, if possible, turned towards the north. In some 
countries a curious, but very effectual, method is adopted : a sort of 
a wall is constructed of soil, in which the stems and roots of the 
Cabbages are placed horizontally, the heads remaining outside. In 
this way, they will keep very far into the winter. Very few of the 
common large Cabbages are suited for being sown in August for 
use in the spring or early summer, as most of them run to seed 
without forming a head when grown under those conditions. It is 
advisable, therefore, to treat such Cabbages as biennials only in 
places where this has been tried with success. 

Besides the varieties already described, we may mention the 
following kinds, which were formerly more or less esteemed, and 
the names of which are still to be met with in horticultural works, 
although the plants themselves are not now so often in cultivation ; 
also a few local varieties, which at present are hardly distributed 
beyond their native districts : — 

Alsace Autumn Cabbage. — Stem long ; head large, compact, 
flat, and sometimes brown on the upper part ; outer leaves short, 
stiff, and round. This variety resembles the Saint-Denis Cabbage, 
but it has a longer stem, and comes in somewhat earlier. 

Large La Trappe, or Mortagne, Cabbage. — This handsome 
kind is hardly grown beyond the neighbourhood of Mortagne, in 
the department of I'Orne. It is somewhat like the Saint-Denis 
Cabbage, but is later, much larger, and of a deeper green colour. 

Death's-head Cabbage. — A very thick-set, dwarf variety. 
Head of average size, very compact, regular, light in colour, and 
almost spherical ; outer leaves rounded and not large. A very 
distinct variety, but now almost universally superseded by the Late 
St. John's Day Cabbage. 

In enumerating the principal local varieties grown in England, 
other parts of Europe, and the United States, we may observe 
that it is rather remarkable that, while a great number of the 
varieties of other vegetables are almost exactly the same in France 
and England, most of the varieties of Garden Cabbages are quite 
different in the two countries. This is probably owing to the 
difference of climate, as the Cabbage is highly susceptible to the 
effects of a dry or a moist climate. We shall only mention those 
English varieties which are most generally grown, noting, where 
possible, the French varieties they most closely resemble. 



SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 141 



Atkin's Matchless Cabbage. — This variety is very like the 
Very Early Etampes Cabbage, but it is not so early, and its 
leaves are more undulated. 

Battersea, Enfield Market, Vanack, or Fulham Cabbage- 
One of the most extensively grown for the London markets. It 
resembles the French Large Ox-heart Cabbage, with a tendency in 
the direction of the Tourlaville or the Bacalan variety. The Early 
Paris Market Cabbage is a very good substitute for this variety. 

Little Pixie, or Tom Thumb, is a good variety with very 
smooth, round, entire leaves, and oval obtuse heads. 

Cornish Paignton, or Early Cornish, Cabbage. — Resembles 
the Bacalan Cabbage, but the head is less compact, and is 
extremely light in colour, like that of the Fumel Cabbage. It 
is not very hardy. 

To the foregoing may be added — Ellam's Dwarf Cabbage, a 
very early variety, with small compact heads, of delicate flavour, a 
continuous supply of which may be had throughout the year by 
making successional sowings. Carters Heartwell Cabbage, a valu- 
able medium-sized Cabbage, and one of the earliest, remarkable 
also for its compact uniform growth. This and the preceding 
are two of the best kinds in cultivation. Cocoa-nut (Wheeler), 
a very distinct, compact, valuable small Cabbage. Imperial 
(Wheeler), a very fine selection, the variety being one of the 
best for general use. 

Of the varieties grown in the north of Europe, the following 
are the most noteworthy : — 

Kaper-kohl Cabbage. — Another very hardy kind, with a round, 
slightly flattened head, deeply tinged with violet or brown on the 
upper part, as are also the rather undulated edges of the numerous 
outer leaves. It is something like the Vaugirard Cabbage. 

Liibeck Cabbage. — A variety of medium size, with a compact, 
flattened head. The leaves are rather glaucous, resembling those 
of the Saint-Denis Cabbage in hue. A late and very hardy kind. 

Giant Flat Gratscheff Cabbage.— A very leafy and large-sized 
variety, the chief merit of which, perhaps, is its capacity for enduring 
severe frosty weather without injury. 

The varieties which have originated in the south of Europe are 
not very many. We shall only mention the following : — 

Pisa Round Cabbage. — This Cabbage is extensively grown 
and much esteemed in Italy and Algeria. In size and appearance it 
is rather like the Late St. John's Day Cabbage ; the head is almost 
round, but terminates at the top in a blunt cone ; stem rather long ; 
outer leaves not many, round, and almost spoon-shaped. There 
are several sub-varieties, differing from one another in size and 
earliness ; the earliest of them heads almost as quickly as the 
York Cabbages. 



142 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Murcian Cabbage.— An exceedingly distinct variety with 
leaves almost round, thick, dark green on the upper surface and 
nearly gray underneath, overlapping one another like the leaves of 
a Cabbage Lettuce. It is a very early variety, but the head is 
loose in texture and almost quite hollow, keeping its shape only 
for a few days. In the climate of Paris it is of no account. 

In the United States the varieties of Cabbage grown there are 
divided generally into three groups : — 

(1) Early Cabbages^: comprising the Early Jersey Wakefield, 
Express, Very Early Etampes, St. John's Day Early, Early York, 
Flat Parisian or Early Spring (described earlier in this book), and 
the Charleston Wakefield Cabbage, which is a rather later, larger- 
headed, rounder, and broader-leaved variety than the Early Jersey 
Wakefield Cabbage. 

(2) Summer or Second Season's Cabbages : comprising, in 
addition to the Early Dwarf Flat Dutch, the Winnigstadt Early^ 
the Pointed-headed Pomeranian, the Large Brunswick Short-stem 
Cabbages, already described, the following principal American 
varieties : — 

Henderson's Early Summer Cabbage.— A middle-sized, half- 

long-stemmed variety ; the heart flattened or slightly depressed at 
the top, and pale green ; the outer leaves large and displayed,, 
rather thin and slightly undulating at the edges. Early, quick- 
heading, and much esteemed in the United States. 

All-head, Faultless Early, Solid South, or Eclipse Cabbage. — 
Rather earlier than the last-described, and a stouter plant, with 
smoother, thicker leaves. The stem is rather short, the head 
rounded, big, hard, and regular in shape. 

Succession Cabbage.— Resembles the Henderson's Early Sum- 
mer Cabbage, excepting that the leaves are smaller, thicker, and the 
head much bigger and flatter, maturing also eight or ten days later. 

All Seasons, or Vandergaw, Cabbage. — Rather later than 
the Succession Cabbage, and more spread out ; the head round 
and compact. It is something like the Brunswick Short-stemmed 
Cabbage, but leafier and more solid in the head. 

Deep-head Cabbage. — Leafy, but a fine deep head, like the 
Brunswick Cabbage. 

(3) The third group comprises the Late, or Winter, varieties,, 
mostly derived from the Late Flat Dutch Cabbage. Among the 
varieties the most cultivated in the United States, besides that of 
the Extra Late Amager Cabbage {syns. the Danish Ball-head, the 
Dutch Winter, the German Export, Danish Emperor, and Solid 
Emperor) already described, are the following : — 

Excelsior Late Flat Dutch Cabbage. — Differs from the 
Brunswick Short-stemmed Cabbage in having a bigger and some- 
times red-coloured head. The leaves are glaucous. 



SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 143 



Premium Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.— A tall-stemmed 
variety, rather quicker to head than the Late Flat Dutch 
Cabbage, the leaves large and glaucous ; head big, flattened, full 
and solid, something like that of the Saint-Denis Large Cabbage. 

Houseman Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.— A hardy, big variety, 
with large rounded entire leaves curling backwards, the head big, 
round, compact, and the stem rather long. 

Acme Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.— Differs from Houseman's 
Late Flat Cabbage only in having the outer leaves of more ample 
size and thinner texture. 

Select Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.— Mid-way, as regards 
characteristics, between the Houseman Late Flat Dutch Cabbage 
and the Acme Late Flat Dutch Cabbage. 

Stonemason, or Warren's Stonemason, Cabbage.— A distinct 
short-stemmed variety, with comparatively few leaves, and these 
rounded, entire, ample, stout, not much undulating and very 
glaucous ; the head big, almost round and compact. 

Sure-head Cabbage. — A late variety of the Late Flat Dutch 
Cabbage type ; rather long in stem, the head of average size, compact 
and regular ; outer leaves not numerous, glaucous and waving. 

Louisville Drumhead Cabbage. — A vigorous late variety, the 
leaves long and entire, smooth, spreading, and thin in texture ; the 
head at times more deep than broad. It is much grown in the 
southern States, where it seems less susceptible to drought than 
most other varieties. 

Premium Late Drumhead, or Large Late Drumhead^ 
Cabbage. — A big-sized, very late variety, shorter in the stem than 
the Premium Late Flat Dutch Cabbage, with many leaves ample 
in size, spread out, dark green, mostly undulated and waving at the 
edges ; the head very big, compact, rounded, and keeping well. 

Autumn King, or World Beater, Cabbage. — A distinct very 
late variety, the leaves not many, thick, rounded, waving, very 
glaucous, and violet-coloured ; stem short ; head thick, very large,, 
round and compact. 

Bridgeport Drumhead Cabbage. — A sub-variety of the Late 
Drumhead Cabbage, very late, glaucous, with stout white ribs, and 
firm, round, compact head. 

Marble-head Mammoth Cabbage. — One of the largest varieties 
grown, and of considerable weight. It is very late, rather long- 
stemmed, the head rather open, resembling that of the Hundred- 
weight Drumhead Cabbage. The leaves numerous, glaucous, and 
curling outwards, the ribbing very marked. 

Luxembourg, or Hard-heading, Cabbage.— A very late, 
hardy, short-stemmed variety, with leaves glaucous and rounded,, 
and head of middle size, firm, and coloured beneath with violet-^ 
red like the Vaugirard Winter Cabbage. Keeps long. 



144 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



SAVOY CABBAGES 

Brassica oleracea bullata, D.C. 



French^ Chou de Milan. German, Wirsing, Savoyerkohl, Borskohl. Flemish and Dutch, 
Savooikool. Danish, Savoy-kaal. Italian, Cavolo di Milano. Spanish, Col de Milan, 
C. risada. Portuguese, Saboia. 

Under this name are grouped all the varieties of Cabbage which, 
instead of having the leaves smooth, have them crimped, or, as they 
are sometimes incorrectly termed, " curled," all over. This appear- 
ance, according to De Candolle, is owing to the circumstance that, 
in these varieties, the parenchyma, or spongy substance, of the leaf 
is developed more rapidly than the nerves or veins, and con- 
sequently becomes raised above their level, not finding room 
enough to grow flat in the space between them. The area of the 
surface of the leaves is increased by these numerous crimped 
divisions, and the head, being formed of all the leaves while they 
are still young, is more tender than in any of the Smooth-leaved 
kinds generally. The flavour is also considered milder and less 
musky. The mode of growing them does not differ from that 
already described for the ordinary kinds. 

St. John's Savoy Cabbage. — This handsome variety might 
almost be described as an Ox-heart Savoy, as it forms a head 



much in the same manner as the Ox-heart Cabbage, and almost as 
promptly. The stem is extremely short, and the leaves are a pale, 
wan green, and much but not finely crimped. The head forms very 
quickly, more so than in any other variety of Savoy. It does not 
keep its shape long, but bursts and grows out of form, if not cut in 
time — a remark which also applies to nearly all the very early 
Cabbages. 

Ulm, or Early Green Curled, Savoy Cabbage.— Stem long; 
head small and round ; leaves not numerous, deep green, rather 
coarsely and deeply crimped. This is the smallest and one of the 
earliest of all the Savoy Cabbages. The New Dwarf Ulm {Little 
Pixie) Savoy, a fine dwarf variety, the Vienna Early Dwarf {Tom 
Thumb, or King Coffee) Savoy, the dwarfest of all varieties, and 




St. John's Savoy Cabbage 
natural size). 



Ulm, or Early Green Curled, Savoy 
Cabbage natural size). 



SAVOY CABBAGES 



145 



the Dwarf Green Curled Savoy, a fine medium-sized variety, are 
three kinds highly 'deserving recommendation. The first two kinds 
should be planted i ft. apart. 

The Vienna Savoy is a sub-variety of the Ulm Savoy, with 
leaves not so much crimped, and a rather oblong head. A very 
small and very early kind. 

Very Early Paris Savoy Cabbage.— This variety is closely 
allied to the preceding one, but also very distinct from it. Head 
round and firm, light green, and surrounded by a few spreading 
not very large leaves, rather dark green in colour, and more broadly 
crimped than those of the foregoing variety. The Very Early 
Paris Savoy is remarkable for its symmetrical and regular shape 




Very Early Paris Savoy Cabbage Dwarf Early Green Curled Savoy. 

(y\ natural size). 



and dwarf stature. It heads almost as quickly as the York 
Cabbages or the earliest Ox-heart varieties. 

Dwarf Early Green Curled Savoy Cabbage. — An excellent 
variety, very distinct, and of first-rate quality. Stem very short ; 
leaves large and broad, rather deep green, very finely crimped, and 
spreading on the ground in a broad rosette before the head is 
formed ; head firm, moderately flattened. This variety is exten- 
"sively grown about Paris for the winter markets. It is sown all 
-through the summer, planted out permanently just as winter 
commences, and supplies the markets all through the winter. 
Generally the head is only beginning to form when the plants 
are cut, but the numerous outer leaves, which closely surround the 
head, form an excellent vegetable after they have been softened 
and made tender by frosty weather. 

Dwarf Roblet Savoy Cabbage. — A small and excellent variety, 
very dwarf and half-early. The outer leaves are glaucous green, 
short, and finely crimped, spreading on the ground. The head is 
flat and rather broad, and close to the ground. Its small size and 
the shortness of the outer leaves allow of its being grown very 
close ; therefore a good cabbage for small gardens as well as a 
field variety. 



146 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Early Flat Green Curled Savoy Cabbage.— Stem rather 
long ; leaves a somewhat glaucous green, largish and pliant, and 

not so finely crimped 
as those of the preced- 
ing kind. It somewhat 
resembles the Large 
Drumhead Savoy, but 
has a much smaller head. 
It is one of the most 
extensively cultivated 
kinds, and is chiefly 
worthy of note as being 
hardy, and not particular 
as to the soil in which it ) 
is grown. 

The American vari- 
eties are : Perfection 
Drumhead Savoy, Globe Curled Savoy, and the Improved American 
Savoy. There is very little difference between these and the Early 
Flat Green Curled Savoy Cabbage ; and the same may be said of 
the Marvin's Savoy, another American variety, except that is a little 
larger and rather later. 

Tours Savoy Cabbage. — Stem short ; leaves very large and 
numerous, very dark green, and coarsely and broadly crimped, the 
outer ones almost entirely spreading on the ground ; head round, 
rather small in proportion to the size of the plant, not very compact, 




Early Flat Green Curled Savoy Cabbage. Tours Savoy Cabbage (tV natural size). 



and often imperfectly formed. As in the case of the Dwarf Green 
Curled Savoy, the outer leaves form as important a part of the crop 
as the head. 

This variety resembles the Early Joulin Savoy Cabbage^ but the 
latter is an earlier and smaller kind. 

Aire Savoy Cabbage. — A very distinct short-stemmed variety ; 
.the outer leaves are not much developed, allowing of close planta- 
tion. Head almost round, medium-sized, firm, and very full, 
weighing 4 lb. and over when well grown. The leaves are pale 




Dwarf Roblet Savoy Cabbage. 



SAVOY CABBAGES 



147 



green or ash-gray, undulated in the centre, and finely crimped at 
the edges. An excellent Cabbage for autumn cultivation. 

Victoria Savoy Cabbage. — Stem of average length ; leaves 
rather numerous, light green, and very finely crimped, in which 





Extra Fine Curled Aire Savoy, 



Victoria Savoy Cabbage (j^ natural size). 



respect they are distinguished from those of all other Savoys 
except the following kind ; head round, compact, fairly large, 
and light green. An excellent variety, of very good quality, 
and keeping its head well for winter use. Its leaves are remark- 
ably tender and delicate in flavour, and yet they withstand frost 
and damp equally well. No other variety has the fleshy substance 
of the leaves so abundantly developed in proportion to the size of 
the veins or nerves. 

Cape, or Large Late Green, Savoy Cabbage. — Stem longish ; 
leaves finely crimped, fairly 
large, and glaucous green ; 
head medium-sized, round, 
and very compact. This 
variety would bear no bad 
resemblance to the Victoria 
Savoy, only for the much 
deeper blue tint of its leaves. 

Yellow Curled, or 
Golden, Savoy Cabbage. 
— Stem short; outer leaves 
broad, rather deep wan 
green, broadly crimped, and 
almost turned backwards ; 
head of a long egg shape, 
medium - sized, not very 

compact, in winter turning VelW Curled, or Golden Savoy natural size). 

to a very light colour, 

almost yellow. This Cabbage is very tender to eat, especially 
after frosty weather. There are several forms or sub-varieties of 




THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Long-headed Savoy Cabbage 
(•j^j natural size). 



it which exhibit various degrees of difference in size and earliness, 
while retaining all the main characteristics of the variety just 
described. One of the most highly esteemed of these is the 

Blumenthaler^ a rather large and 
late kind. 

Long-headed Savoy Cab- 
bage. — Stem of medium length, 
about one-half or two-thirds the 
length of the head, which is 
oblong in shape, almost like 
that of the Sugar-loaf Cabbage, 
light green in colour, and not 
very compact; outer leaves 
rather narrow, elongated, erect, 
rather broadly crimped, and 
somewhat glaucous green. A 
moderately early variety, of 
good quality, and yielding a 
fair crop, notwithstanding the 
smallish size of the plants. It heads well in the latter end of 
autumn, so that it can be sown to advantage rather late in the 
season. 

Large Aubervilliers Savoy Cabbage. — A variety derived from 
the Vertus Savoy, but now distinct owing to a long selection. 
Years ago the Vertus Savoy came into the market scarcely before 
the end of October, until some market-gardeners, with a view to its 
profitable sale at an earlier date, were careful to mark for seed- 
ing purposes those plants which headed quickest, and hence the 
decidedly earlier strain which has been obtained. The new variety 
is not quite so hardy, 
nor does it keep so long 
as the Vertus Savoy, 
but it has a shorter 
stem, a more flattened 
head, and less glaucous 
light green leaves. 

Large Vertus 
Drumhead Savoy Cab- 
bage. — Stem 6 to 8 in. 
high, stout, bearing a 
broad, thick, compact 
head, which is flat on 
the top, sometimes 
tinged with a wine-lees-red, and almost perfectly smooth, being 
only partially crimped at the edges of the leaves ; outer leaves 
rather numerous, large, broad, stiff, well spread out, rather dark 




Large Aubervilliers Savoy Cabbage. 



SAVOY CABBAGES 



149 




and glaucous green, and not so finely or abundantly crimped as 
those of most other Savoy Cabbages. This variety is grown 
on a large scale around 
Paris, and especially in 
the Plain of Auber- 
villiers, where they com- 
mence to cut it for 
market at the end of 
autumn and in the early 
part of winter. When 
it is grown true to 
name, the heads are 

only completely formed ^'^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^kS: 
at that time, and they ^^"^^^^^^^^^^^ 
bear the early frosts ^--^^mx^^>r^- 

pretty well. Immense ^^""^^ Drumhead Savoy Cabbage. 

quantities of this Cabbage are sent to the Central Market at 
Paris during a considerable part of the winter. 

<¥m^ ^^^r'-t;::^^ Large Hardy 

Winter Drumhead 
Savoy Cabbage. — Stem 
fairly long ; leaves 
numerous, large, stiff, 
coarsely crimped, rather 
deep and glaucous 
green ; head round, 
forming rather late, very 
full, compact and hard. 
This is a good winter 
variety, coming in after 
the preceding one. 
Some people consider it to be the original form of the Large 
Vertus Savoy, and that the latter is an accidental improvement 
of the market - gardeners 
on the primitive variety, 
which is not so early, and 
does not produce so fine 
a head. 

Limay Savoy Cabbage. 
— Stem long ; outer leaves 
large, spreading horizon- 
tally, and coarsely and 
densely crimped ; head 
small, round, and not very 
compact. This variety is extremely hardy, and resists the severest 
frosts. Like the Dwarf Green Curled Savoy, it forms a large 




Large Hardy Winter Drumhead Savoy Cabbage 
(yV natural size). 




Limay Savoy Cabbage natural size). 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Small Belleville Savoy Cabbage. 



rosette of leaves rather than a head, properly so called, and it 
is considered not inferior to that variety in the markets. 

Small Belleville Savoy Cabbage.— Stem short, head firm and 

rounded, outer leaves dark 
and much crimped and 
spreading on the ground. 
It stands the frost well, 
a thin coating of snow 
sufficing for its protec- 
tion. In this, and also 
in being quicker to head, 
it is much superior to 
the Limay Savoy, which 
it resembles. Like the 
Limay Savoy, it may be 
sown in June for use after the Vertus Savoy, from late in the 
autumn to the end of winter. It is largely grown for the Paris 
markets. 

Norwegian Savoy Cabbage. — This kind has the leaves so little 
crimped that it might almost be taken for an ordinary Smooth- 
leaved Cabbage. The stem is fairly long, and the leaves numerous, 
stiff, and standing well up about the head, which is round, small, 
and very late to form. All the leaves, in winter, become red or 
violet. This Cabbage is dis- 
tinguishable in appearance 
from the Vaugirard Cabbage 
only by its longer stem and 
somewhat more numerous 
leaves. It is the latest of 
the Savoys, and will bear 
the hardest frosts. 

In Belgium there is a 
coarsely crimped variety of 
Savoy grown under the name 

of Chou de Mai or Chou d -kt • o lu , ^ ^ • \ 

7 ^ , 7., t*- Norwegian Savoy Cabbage natural size). 

irois tetes {^Drie-Kropper), the 

head of which is formed by the leaves being twisted, instead of 
folded or wrapped over one another in the ordinary way. It is 
sown in August, and planted out either before, during, or after 
winter, coming in the following May. After the head is cut, the 
plant produces two or three small secondary heads in the axils of 
the lower leaves. 

In the London market-gardens seed is sown in March, and the 

Savoys are not so much esteemed plants are put out under fruit-trees, 

as Cabbage, but they are largely or in similar positions in the same 

cultivated by some growers. The way as Cabbages. The varieties 




SAVOY CABBAGES 



151 



mostly grown are the Dwarf Green 
Curled, Early Ulm, and Vertus. 
Sometimes they are used as Cole- 
worts when half-grown, in which 
case they are planted thickly among 
other crops in any vacant places in 
the same way as Cabbage Coleworts. 
During winter, when greens are 



scarce, Savoys are most in demand. 
They are very hardy, and are all the 
better for being subjected to frost, 
and for this reason they are a good 
winter crop. The refuse of the 
seed-beds is sometimes planted out 
in August to supply Coleworts in 
winter and spring. 



Braganza, Portugal, or Sea- Kale Cabbage {CJiou a grosses 
cotes ordinaire^. — Stem shortish ; leaves closely set, with thick, 
white, fleshy ribs, undulated and slightly cut on the edges, and 
usually hollowed or spoon-shaped, all forming at the latter end of 
autumn a small loose kind of head. For a long time a distinction 
was made of two varieties of this plant, one with green and the 
other with light-coloured leaves, but the difference is so unimportant 




Braganza, Portugal, or Sea-Kale Cabbage Curled Couve Tronchuda Cabbage 

natural size). (yV natural size). 



that at the present day the two kinds are considered identical. 
The outer leaves and the head of the Couve Tronchuda are very 
tender to eat. It stands frost very well, and even requires it to 
bring out its full quality. Under the name of Dwarf Portugal 
Cabbage, a more compact and better-headed variety is sometimes 
grown in England. 

Curled Couve Tronchuda Cabbage. — The ribs of this variety 
are not so much developed as those of the ordinary kind, but the 
blade of the leaf is much more curled and undulated. It forms an 
imperfect head, but bears frost very well, and can be cut all through 
the winter, when autumn Cabbages have become scarce. 

Curled Winter Borecole Cabbage. — Towards the end of 
winter, one may see in the Central Market, at Paris, a variety of 
Cabbage which does not form a head, and which the market- 
gardeners call Bricoli Cabbage. This seems to be an intermediate 
kind between the Green Curled Kale and the Curled Couve 



152 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Tronchuda. As far as we have seen, it possesses no special merit 

beyond its great degree of hardiness. 

The Thick-leaved Coutances Cabbage resembles closely the 



Couve Tronchuda. The midrib of its leaf is not so large, but, on 
the other hand, it forms a much better head, which in the course 
of the autumn becomes very compact, white, and exceedingly firm 
at the heart. 



French, Chou de Bruxelles. German, Briisseler Sprossen-Kohl. Flemish and Dutch^ 
Spruitkool. Dajiish, Rosenkaal. Italian, Cavolo a germoglio, Spanish, Bretones- 
de Bruselas. Portuguese^ Couve de Bruxellas. 

This variety of Cabbage bears some analogy to the Savoys in 
its dark green and somewhat crimped leaves ; but, on the other 
hand, it has a longer stem than any of the other head-forming 
Cabbages, and its leaves, although very numerous, do not form a 
true head. It is grown for the sake of the sprouts, which are 
produced in the axils of the leaves all along the stem, and of which 
the small spoon-shaped leaves are very closely and compactly 
wrapped round one another so as to form small heads, which are 
round in shape and produced in great abundance. They make 
their appearance first at the bottom of the stem, and, as these are 
cut away, fresh " sprouts " appear in succession almost up to the 
top of the stem. This long-continued production of sprouts, which 
is maintained in the severest frosty weather, and also the very fine 
quality of the vegetable, have caused the Brussels Sprouts to be 
one of the most highly esteemed and most generally grown 
kitchen-garden plants. There is something singular, from a 




Curled Winter Borecole Cabbage natural size). 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS 



153 



physiological point of view, in the circumstance that the principal 
rosette of leaves of this plant does not form a head, while the 
secondary shoots or sprouts regularly form very perfect heads. 
The very reverse of this is mostly found to occur in other Cabbages 
and in Lettuces, in which the principal leaves of the head enwrap 
one another closely, while the leaves of the sprouts which they 
produce stand apart at greater or less distances from one another 
on the shoots which bear them. Be that as it may, we are indebted 
to this anomaly for an excellent vegetable. 

Culture. — The Brussels Sprout is a plant of rather slow 
growth, and in order to have a crop from the end of October to 
March, sowings should be commenced in March or April, and 
continued in succession until June, if a successional crop is desired. 
When the seedlings are strong enough, they are planted out 
permanently, leaving a space of 20 in. in all directions from plant 
to plant of the ordinary variety, and of 16 in. for plants of the 
dwarf kind. The sprouts will be fit to cut in October, and the 
plants will continue to bear them all through the winter. They 
like good, rich, well-drained soil, which, however, should not be 
too highly manured, otherwise the growth would become too rank, 
to the detriment of the sprouts, which, under such circumstances^ 
do not head well. 



As a rule, in England, Brussels 
Sprouts are only cultivated in large 
and market gardens, although they 
are well deserving of a place in 
every garden, however small. With 
a little skill and forethought, they 
may in warm districts be got to 
supply the table from September 
till April. The common rule is to 
sow one good batch in March or 
April, and let that serve all purposes. 
Where, however, a long supply is 
desired, this is decidedly a mistake, 
inasmuch as Brussels Sprouts ought 
to be made use of as soon as they 
are ready, otherwise they burst or 
rot, and are useless. Successional 
sowings should be made to keep up 
a constant supply. 

For early crops the best plan is 
to sow a pinch of seed in a shallow 
box, well drained, early in January, 
and place it in a pit or frame where 
the temperature is from 40° to 45°. 
The plants will soon be up, and 



should be kept close up to the 
glass until they are large enough to 
handle, when they should be pricked 
off into other boxes, or out into a 
bed in a frame. Plenty of air must 
be admitted to them after they have 
again commenced to grow, and if 
the weather be favourable in the 
middle of March, they may be 
planted out-of-doors on the warmest 
border that can be spared for them. 
If the plants be taken out with a 
good ball of earth and planted 
during showery weather, they will 
grow away without a check, and a 
crop of fine large sprouts in Sep- 
tember will be the result. 

The first sowing out-of-doors 
should be made in February or 
March, the main sowing early in 
April ; and if later supplies be 
required, a small sowing may be- 
made in May or June. When 
the plants are large enough to be 
conveniently handled, they should 



154 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



be pricked out in rows into 
narrow beds or borders, 5 or 6 in. 
apart, or more if practicable. The 
distance apart of the plants for 
the final planting must in some 
measure be governed by the space 
at disposal, but in any case there 
is nothing gained by overcrowding. 
Plants for the main crop should be 
allowed at least 2 ft. apart each way, 
but if 3 ft. can be allowed between 
the rows, it will be all the better. 
If extra fine sprouts are desired, 
3 ft. from plant to plant each way 
must be allowed. For early and 
late plantations it is not necessary 
to allow quite so much space as for 
the main crop. 

Soil. — Brussels Sprouts will suc- 
ceed in almost any kind of soil, 
provided it is well and deeply culti- 
vated and fairly manured. Poor 
sandy soil will require a heavy 
dressing of good manure, whilst 
lime and burnt clay may be bene- 
ficially applied to cold clayey land 
in preference to rank manure just 
previous to planting, which would 
have a tendency to produce gross 
open sprouts instead of the close 
medium-sized buttons so much liked 
in the kitchen. Frequent stirrings 
of the soil, clean culture, and re- 
moving decaying leaves add to their 
growth and cleanly appearance, and 
ought to be insisted on. As regards 
earthing-up the stems, there has 
been much dispute as to its merits 
and demerits, but we have seen 
them grown both with and without 
that assistance, with much about 
the same result. In windy places 
earthing-up is certainly to be recom- 
mended, in order to enable them to 
resist the power of the wind; but 
as Brussels Sprouts, unlike Cabbage 
or Broccoli, bear all up the stems, 
it is not desirable to bury them to 
..any great depth, beyond giving them 
jiecessary support. The Cabbage- 



like heart from the centre of the 
plant should not be cut off until the 
crop is fit for gathering. The 
Brussels Sprout in its proper state 
is a small, compact one ; and very 
rich culture, while giving large 
rosettes, does not improve the 
quality. 

Manure water given to Brussels 
Sprouts during dry weather will help 
to keep them in a vigorous and 
healthy growing state ; but it is well 
to remember that overfeeding will 
spoil this vegetable, which in its 
best state is neat and compact. By 
making it coarse and large we make 
it useless to the good cook, who 
knows what it ought to be. 

Gathering. — In gathering, Brus- 
sels Sprouts are frequently broken 
from the stems of the plants, and 
sometimes with a portion of the 
stem adhering to them. This is 
wrong, inasmuch as it destroys the 
second crop of young sprouts. A 
sharp knife should always be used 
to cut off the sprouts, leaving as 
much spur as possible. The largest 
and hardest should always be 
gathered first. 

Brussels Sprouts are chiefly 
grown in the London market-gardens 
as catch crops, under orchard trees, 
or between other vegetables. The 
seed is sown in April, and the plants, 
when large enough, are put out 
wherever a vacant piece of ground 
occurs. Market gardeners prefer 
Brussels Sprouts with medium-sized 
stems to those of rank growth, as 
from the former they get harder and 
better sprouts, which realise the 
most money in the market. In 
gathering Brussels Sprouts most 
market gardeners pull up the plants 
and cart them to the packing shed, 
where women divest the stalks of 
the sprouts and pack them in half- 
bushel or bushel baskets, the largest 
and plumpest being always put on 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS 



155 



the top. The Cabbage-like tops are 
packed separately in large baskets. 
Some growers, however, pick the 
sprouts from the plants as they grow, 
and leave them to supply a second 
crop. Brussels Sprouts when in the 
seed-bed are often attacked by small 
white-winged flies, which congregate 
on the under-side of the leaves and 
greatly injure the plants. In order 
to get rid of these, an old sack is 
nailed to two poles, about 6 in. 



being allowed to hang over one of 
the poles to act as a flapper. The 
sack, but not the flapper, is then 
tarred all over, and two men, one 
each side the seed-bed, walk quickly 
along with the sack directly over the 
plants. The flapper drags over the 
plants and disturbs the flies, which 
fly upwards and get stuck to the 
tar. This several times repeated 
gets rid of the majority of the 
insects. 



Uses. — In Belgium, preference is given to small-sized sprouts, 
which grow very thickly and close together on the stems ; but in 
France the largest-sized sprouts, as big as a good-sized walnut, 
are most in favour — another proof that the fine appearance of a 
vegetable or a fruit is not always an index of its quality, for the 
smallest and hardest Brussels Sprouts 
are certainly the most delicate in 
flavour. 

Tall Brussels Sprouts. — Stem 
2j to over 3 ft. high, slender, with 
numerous leaves set at some distance 
apart, leaving the stalk bare for 
a great part of its length, round, 
sHghtly hollow or spoonshaped, and 
very faintly crimped. Sprouts of 
medium size, very firm, rather pear- 
shaped, and never so close as to 
touch one another. This kind is 
extensively grown in the fields 
around Paris ; it is hardy, and con- 
tinues to bear, for several months, 
producing the smallest, most delicate, 
and best " sprouts." 

Half-dwarf Paris Market 
Brussels Sprouts. — Strong, straight 
stem, 20 to 28 in. long ; medium- 
sized leaves, rounded, very slightly 
crimped, spoon-shaped, borne on 
long bare stalks and slightly tinged 
with purple. The sprouts are nume- 
rous and closely set on the stem, 
very firm and rounded, and a light gray-green colour. They 
remain a long time without opening, and are scarcely larger 
than a large hazel-nut. The Half-dwarf Paris Market Brussels 




Tall Brussels Sprouts natural 
size; sprout, ^ natural size). 



156 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Sprout is a very productive variety, regular and hardy. It is the 
sort preferred by the Paris market-gardeners. 

Dwarf Brussels Sprouts.— Stem stout and stiff, usually not 
exceeding 20 in. in height ; leaves more close together than those 
of the Tall kind, and more crimped. Sprouts generally larger and 




Half-Dwarf Brussels Sprouts. (j^,; natural size). 

rounder, and usually crowded upon one another. This variety is 
generally somewhat earlier than the Tall one, but it does not 
continue to bear so long in winter. 

In England too much importance is attached to the size of the 
sprouts, varieties that yield sprouts as Irrge as small oranges 
being preferred; such varieties as Aigburth, Dalkeith, and Scrymgers 
Gianty which produce sprouts of a size that in France or in Belgium 
would be thought much too large. 

Before describing the Borecoles, we must notice two very 
distinct kinds of Cabbages, which come between those varieties 
which form heads and those which do not. These are the Rosette 
Colewort and the Russian Kale. 

Green Rosette Colewort. — Under the name of Rosette Colewort 
or Collard, a very distinct variety is cultivated in England, which, 
although capable of forming a head, is generally cut for use as a 
Borecole while the leaves are in the rosette form and still young 
and tender. It is very dwarf, the stem seldom exceeding 8 or 10 in. 
in height, and bearing numerous closely set, slightly crimped, 



j 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS 



157 



rounded, and deeply hollowed or spoon-shaped leaves. If sown early 
in spring, it comes in in August, and, if left in the ground longer, 
it forms a small, round, very compact head. But as Cabbages of 
all kinds are plentiful in autumn, there is no advantage in sowing 
this kind so early ; whereas, if sown in early summer, it comes in 
at a time when tender greens are scarcest and most in demand. 

Russian Kale. — A singular plant, which, at first sight, one 
would be inclined to take for anything else but a Cabbage. Stem 
rather large and thickish, 16 to 20 in. high; leaves gray-green, the 
outer ones darker and half-spreading, the central ones paler and 
erect, all of them cut nearly down to the midrib into rather narrow 
divisions, which are entire, or sometimes lobed, and are coarsely 
crimped on the upper surface. At the latter end of autumn this 
Cabbage forms a sort of a head, which is small, pretty white, and 
very compact. Its chief merit is that it bears frosty weather very 
well. Apart from its singular appearance, it is not easy to say 
what this plant has to recommend it. It is certainly no advantage 
to have the veins merely fringed with a narrow border of parenchyma, 
or spongy substance, instead of being connected by an unbroken 
tissue, as they are in other Cabbages. Having been grown for 
some time chiefly in botanical collections, the Russian Kale ap- 
peared to have become almost forgotten, and it was later on 
re-introduced as a novelty into England. 

Culture. — The culture of Cole- bability of its growing Whole 

worts is very extensive and impor- fields, too, are sometimes cropped 

tant in London market-gardens. with it, and are cleared in good 

These are Cabbages pulled for time for winter Radishes. The 

market when about half-grown, and Rosette is grown largely for market, 

for supplying such every spare a sowing of it being usually made 

corner in market-gardens is planted. in May in beds in an open piece of 

As soon as fruit-bushes have been ground ; and, when up, the young 

cleared of their crops, rows of Cole- plants are thinned with small hoes, 

worts are planted between them; The strongest plants are first selected 

they are also planted under fruit- for transplanting, and are put in 

trees, no matter how large the trees chiefly as catch crops between other 

may be, and also between rows of vegetables. For spring Coleworts, 

Moss Roses. The space between only the thinnings of the Fulham 

Celery ridges is likewise generally Cabbage are used. The Rosette 

planted with Coleworts, as is also is, perhaps, the greatest favourite 

that between Asparagus ridges, the in the market, its beautiful white 

edges of which, too, are often heads, when bunched, having an 

cropped with Coleworts. Between attractive appearance. A kind called 

the rows of French and Runner Blue Colewort is largely grown for a 

Beans and Late Savoys the Cole- November crop, as earlier in the year 

wort is also planted; and, in fact, it is apt to "bolt." Coleworts are 

like Lettuces, it is planted in every tied in bunches, packed in waggons, 

empty space where there is a pro- and sold in this way in market. ♦ 

* London Rosette Colewort, see pp. 760, 763. Hardy Green Colewort, 
see p. 760. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



BORECOLE or KALE 

Brassica oleracea acephala^ D.C. 

French^ Choux verts, German^ Blatterkohl, Flemish, Bladerkool. Dutch, Boerenkool. 
Italian, Cavolo verde. Spanish, Col sin cogoUo, Breton, Berza. 

To this section belong a number of very hardy and excellent 
vegetables, as we think, often more delicate in flavour than the 
hearting Cabbages. The sprouts of the Scotch and Cottager's 
Kales, gathered in spring from the stems cut in winter, are excellent 
in flavour. 

Mosbach Winter Kale. — One might suppose that this variety 
was a cross between the Tall Green Curled Kale and the Couve 
Tronchuda Cabbage, so much does it resemble the latter in its 
leaves, which are, to a great extent, entire in the blade, and have 
very stout stalks, midribs, and veins. Only the margin of the 
leaves is curled and very finely puckered, almost in the same way 




Mosbach Winter Kale. Tall Green Curled, or Scotch, Kale. 

as the leaves of the Curled Kales. The stem is of medium height, 
rarely exceeding 2 or 2j ft, and the leaves are disposed along it in 
tiers, are bent upwards, instead of downwards, from the middle, 
and are distinguished by their pale green, almost yellow, colour. 
This plant is not only useful as a table vegetable, but also in some 
degree as an ornamental plant. It is not very hardy. 

Tall Green Curled, or Scotch, Kale; Tall German, or 
Winter, Greens. — Stem stout and straight, 3 to 5 ft. high, bearing 
a plume of rather narrow, lobed, deeply cut leaves, very much 
curled at the edges, and often turned backwards at the end, Hght 
green in colour, and from 16 to 20 in. in length. This is a useful 



BORECOLE OR KALE 



159 




Intermediate Moss-curled Kale. 



variety for very cold localities, and its leaves are very tender and 
good after they have been exposed to the action of frosty weather ; 
besides, the plant is ornamental. In the open ground, even in the 
severest winters, it yields a supply 
of fresh vegetables of excellent 
quality. 

Intermediate Moss-curled 
Kale. — This variety is intermediate 
in height between the Dwarf Curled 
Kale, the leaves of which spread 
upon the ground, and the Tall 
Green Curled Kale, which some- 
times grows 6 ft or more high. It 
is rarely above 32 in. in height, and 
its short, but very broad, leaves are 
curled to an extreme, the margins 
being also curiously puckered and 
twisted. It is perfectly hardy, and 
in this respect differs widely from 
the Mosbach Kale, which is rather 
sensitive to cold. 

Curled Green Dwarf Kale, German Greens, Dwarf Curlies, 
Canada or Labrador Kale. — This is a dwarf variety of the Scotch 
Kale, which it resembles in its leaves ; but its stem does not grow 
more than from 16 to 20 in. high, so that the ends of the leaves 
often rest upon the ground. Besides its value as a vegetable, it is 
also a very ornamental plant, either for small circular raised flower- 
beds in winter or for garnishing dishes on the table. 

The Siberian Kale of the Americans is a short-stemmed variety, 

not so delicately curled 
as the Curled Green 
Dwarf Kale, and more 
blue in colour. 

Jerusalem Green 
Curled Kale, or 
Asparagus Kale.— A 
variety of dwarf but 
sturdy growth, the 
margin of the leaves 
very much crisped or 
curled, and the partially 
undeveloped centre 
leaves tinged with purple on the tips, the veins of a subdued crimson 
colour. In spring it throws out numerous long, stout, succulent shoots, 
which may be cooked either green or blanched. The Imperial 
Hearting Scotch Kale is also very productive of sprouts in spring. 




Dwarf Curled Kale, German Greens, Dwarf Curlies, 
Canada or Labrador Kale (^V natural size). 



i6o THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Tall Purple Borecole, Tall Purple Kale, or Purple Winter 
Greens. — This plant resembles the Tall Green Curled Kale in 
everything save the colour of its leaves, v^hich are of a very deep 
violet-red hue. 

Dwarf Purple Curled Borecole. — A sub-variety of the preceding 
kind, growing only from i6 to 20 in. high. When it is grown true 
to name, the leaves are almost black, and it contrasts very 
strikingly with that of the Green Curled Kale, which it equals 
in hardiness. 

Variegated Borecole, or Garnishing Kale.— Stem from 20 in. 
to 2j ft. high ; leaves divided, slashed, curled, and undulated, like 

those of the preceding 
varieties, but variegated, 
especially after frost, 
either with green, red, 
or lilac on a white 
ground, or with red on 
a green ground. Several 
of these forms can be 
raised individually from 
seed, especially the 
Red Variegated and the 
White Variegated Kale. 
All these kinds are very 
ornamental, and in 
winter very pretty beds 
can be made with them 
in the open ground, 
while the leaves may 
also be found useful for 
garnishing the dinner- 
table. They will bear 
very severe frosty 
weather, if they have 
not previously suffered 
from an excess of mois- 

Variegated Borecole, or Garnishing Kale. ^Ure. In growing them, 

when the plants are 
sufficiently large, transplant them into poor soil in an open situation. 
In autumn, select the most beautiful, and, breaking off the large 
under-leaves, plant sufficiently deep to bring the head close to the 
surface of the soil. 

Georgia Collards. — The Cabbage, as we remarked at the 
beginning, is a plant which properly belongs to cold and temperate 
climates, and accordingly, amongst cultivated varieties, we find but 
very few which can endure the summer heat of warm latitudes. 




BORECOLE OR KALE 



i6i 



The present variety is one of these, and is very highly esteemed in 
the Southern United States. It does not form a head, but the 
leaves, which are large, undulated, and slightly curled at the edges, 
are folded at the heart or centre, so as to form a sort of bunch, 
being also variegated with white on the ribs, and presenting some- 
what of the appearance of the central leaves of the Cauliflower when 
the head is just about to form. These leaves are very tender and 
delicate when cooked, and, in fact, form an excellent table vegetable. 
The plant grows from 2 to 3 ft. high, according to the nature of 
the soil in which it is grown and the liberal amount of culture 
bestowed upon it. 

Curled Laciniated Borecole. — A half-dwarf plant, not usually 
over 20 or 24 in. in height, with long curved leaves, divided into strips 
almost straight or slightly curved and curled, which give them a 
feathery appearance. The colour is generally a dull red, or purplish, 
green, but after the frosts the central part of the plant becomes 
a vivid red. 

Proliferous Borecole. — This rather singular variety is remark- 
able for producing on the midrib, and sometimes on the smaller 
veins of the leaf, certain leaf-like appendages, which are curled and 
cut in the same manner as the leaf itself is at the margin. The 
plants are also usually, at the same time, variegated with white or 
red. They are chiefly noticeable as ornamental plants. 

Palm-tree Cabbage or Borecole. — Stem straight, or slightly 
curved, attaining a height of 6| ft. or more, 
and bearing at the top a cluster of leaves, 
which are entire, from 2 to over 2| ft. long 
and 3 or 4 in. broad, the edges turned and 
rolled underneath, dark, almost black, green 
in colour, and finely crimped, like those of 
the Savoy Cabbages. They grow straight 
and stiff at first, but afterwards become 
curved outwards at the ends, giving the plant 
a very elegant appearance. The Palm-tree 
Cabbage does not often flower before the 
third year of its growth, at which time it 
attains its greatest height. In France it is 
almost exclusively grown as an ornamental 
plant. In Italy a variety is grown for table 
use under the name of Cavolo Nero, which 
seems to us to be identical with this. 

Several varieties of strong tall Cabbages are used for feeding 
cattle only, and need only a brief mention here. They are as 
follows : — 

Tree Cabbage or Jersey Kale. — The stem is straight, stiff, and 
strong, but comparatively slender, as it seldom attains a diameter 

II 




Palm-tree Cabbage, or 
Borecole. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



of if in. In the first year of its growth it does not usually exceed 
3 or 4 ft. in height. The plant produces a great number of leaves, 
which are green, large, cut at the base, but 
oval-rounded at the end, slightly crimped 
or puffed on the upper surface, and often 
over 2 J ft. long. 

Large-leaved Jersey Kale or Sarthe 
Cow Cabbage. — This variety, which comes 
very near the preceding kind, but is usually 
not so tall, is especially remarkable for the 
enormous size of its leaves, which often 
grow more than 3 ft. long and from 12 to 
14 in, broad. It is a very productive cattle- 
feeding Cabbage, succeeding best in rich soil 
in a temperate climate, as it is not perfectly 
hardy. 

Flanders Purple Borecole, or Flanders 

Kale. — A cattle-feeding plant of large size, 
but somewhat smaller than the Tree Cabbage, from which it is 
also distinguished by the violet-red colour of its leaves and stem. 
The plant is sometimes branched, in which respect it differs from 
the Tree Cabbage, the stem of which is most usually unbranched. 
The leaves of the Flanders Kale also are smaller and narrower 
in proportion to their length. 

English Thousand-headed Cabbage, or Branching Borecole. 
— Another very large kind, differing from the Tree Cabbage in the 




Tree or Jersey Kale, 







Flanders Purple Borecole. 



English Branching Borecole. 



Stem being usually divided into a number of branches, each bearing 
large leaves almost like those of the Tree Cabbage. Although 
not so tall as that, it is generally considered more productive ; 
but it is not so hardy, and often suffers from the winters of the 
middle and north of France. 

Improved, or French Thousand-headed, Cabbage. — A very 
distinct variety, raised in La Vendee, and, unfortunately, rather 



BORECOLE OR KALE 



163 



the preceding kind, 
3 to 4 ft. high, and 




Improved Thousand- 
headed Borecole Cabbage. 



sensitive to cold. It branches still more than 
and forms a sort of large tuft or small bush, 
exceedingly dense and leafy. The leaves 
are entire, rather long, broader at the base 
than at the end, and of a very peculiar light 
or yellowish tint. It is rather tender for 
the winter climate of the greater part of 
England. 

Marrow Kale. — A large variety of 
Cabbage, with a very stout and thick un- 
branched stem, which is swollen chiefly in 
the upper two-thirds of its length and filled 
with a sort of marrow or tender flesh, 
excellent for cattle. The leaves are very 
long and broad, and constitute a considerable 
part of the crop. The stem grows 5 ft. or 
more high, with a diameter of 3 to 4 in. in the thickest part. The 
Marrow Kale, like the Thousand-headed Cabbage, is sensitive to 
cold, and the crop must be gathered before severe frost sets in. At 
the end of summer, and all through the autumn, the leaves are cut 
and given to cattle. At the commencement of hard weather, when 
the leaves are all cut, the stems are taken up and stored in an 
outhouse or shed, where they will be safe from frost, and in this 
way they will keep all through the winter. 

This plant forms the connecting-link between the common 
Cattle-feeding Cabbages and the Kohl-Rabi, and, in a more general 
way, between the Cabbages which are grown for their leaves and 
those which are grown for their swollen stems. The Kohl-Rabi 
is only a Marrow Kale with the stem shortened into the form of 
a ball, the marrow or substance of the swollen 
part being of the same nature, consistence, 
and taste in both plants. 

The stem of the Marrow Kale, if cut while 
young, when the swollen part does not measure 
more than 20 in. or 2 ft. in length and 2 or 
3 in. in diameter, would, in our opinion, form 
a very palatable vegetable. 

Red Marrow Kale. — This differs from the 
preceding kind only in the red or purplish 
colour of its stem. It has the same good 
qualities and the same deficiencies. 

In England, a great number of kinds of 
Borecole or Kale are grown, the leaves of 
which are either entire or divided, and smooth 
or faintly crimped, and some of them are as useful in the garden 
as the much-curled sorts. The principal sorts are : — 




Red Marrow Kale. 



164 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Cottager's Kale. — A rather variable kind, with green or violet 
and more or less curled leaves. Its chief merit is its extreme 
hardiness. 

Egyptian Kale. — A very dwarf variety, which in spring 
produces great numbers of fleshy shoots, covered with small tender 
leaves. 

Jerusalem, or Delaware, Kale. — The leaves of this are curled 
at the edges and of a violet tint. The plant produces shoots in 
spring, like the preceding kind. 

Milan Kale. — This is a Borecole, and should not be confounded 
with the French Chou de Milan Savoy. Except that they both 
belong to the same genus, there is no resemblance whatever 
between them. The Milan Kale produces a stem from 18 in. to 
2 ft. high, clothed with plain, bluntly toothed leaves, and terminated 
by a close rosette of leaves forming a small head. In spring it 
throws out a quantity of succulent shoots, which, when cooked, 
is one of the most delicious of winter greens. 

Ragged Jack. — A hardy and productive variety, with long, 
irregularly cut or slashed leaves, and short, often branching, stem. 

The Gallega Cabbage, of Portugal, is a variety with very large 
green leaves, which are very much crimped and puffed on the 
upper surface. It is a good cropper, but sensitive to cold. 

Culture. — The culture of the Cattle-feeding varieties of 
Cabbage does not come within the scope of this work. We will 
only say, with respect to such of the Kales or Borecoles as are 
grown for ornament or table use, that they require the same treat- 
ment as late ordinary Cabbages and Brussels Sprouts. They are 
sown in spring in a nursery-bed, the seedlings are pricked out in 
May, and afterwards finally transplanted in the course of the 
summer. The crop comes in through the autumn and winter, and 
sometimes through the whole of the following year. The plants 
do not run to seed until the spring of the second year after that in 
which they were sown. 

KOHL-RABI 

Brassica Caulo-rapa, D.C. 

French, Chou-rave. German, Oberkohlrabi. Flemish, Raapkool. Dutch, Koolraapen 
boven den grond. Danish, Knudekaal. Italian, Cavolo rapa. Spanish, Col 
rabano. Portuguese, Couve rabano. 

The useful part of this plant is its swollen, fleshy, and pulpy stem. 
Some cattle-feeding varieties of Cabbages afford examples of 
enlargements of this kind, but in none of them is the stem so 
completely swollen or so much altered in appearance. In the 
Kohl-Rabi, the swelling of the stem, which commences close to the 
surface of the ground, is almost a ball, the size of which in some 



KOHL-RABI 



165 



varieties does not exceed that of an average-sized orange, while 
in others it nearly equals that of a man's head. The Kohl-Rabi is 
not sufficiently known or valued in France or England, for it forms 
an excellent vegetable, especially when used before it is fully 
grown, in which state it is generally eaten in Germany, while in 
Italy the swollen stem is often eaten before it has grown as large 
as a hen's egg. 

Culture. — The kitchen-garden varieties are sown in a nursery- 
bed from March to the end of June. When the seedlings are from 
a month to six weeks old, they are permanently planted out, and 
the plants may commence to be cut for use about two months 
after. In planting them out, a space of from 14 to 16 in. should be 
left from plant to plant, according to the variety grown. Some 
varieties also are grown for cattle-feeding, and for this purpose the 
largest and latest kinds are 
employed. They are sown in 
April, planted out in May and 
June, and cut for use only in 
autumn. 

Uses.— The swollen part 
of the stem is eaten before it 
is quite fully grown, when it 
is tender and has the com- 
bined flavours of a Cabbage 
and a Turnip. 

Common White Kohl- 
Rabi. — Leaves rather stout, 
I ft. to 16 in. long, with white 
stalks as thick as the little 
finger ; ball very pale green, 
almost white, and 6 to 8 in. 
in diameter. In this variety 
the ball takes a long time to 
form — i.e. nearly four months ^^"^ 

— before it is large enough to Common White Kohl-Rabi, 

be eaten, and six or seven 

months before it is fully grown. The ball is sometimes flattened, 
and at other times almost oblong in shape. The leaves, after 
falling, leave behind them broad whitish scars. 

Purple Kohl-Rabi.— This differs from the Common White 
Kohl-Rabi only in the colour of the ball, the leaf-stalks, and the 
veins of the leaves. 

These Kohl-Rabis keep well during the winter, but being liable to 
become hollow and tough, it is well to make use of them before March. 

White Goliath Kohl-Rabi.— A very late sort, producing larger 
balls than the preceding. The skin is pale green, almost white. 




THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The flesh is fine-grained and of excellent quality, even in full- 
grown plants. The lateness of this variety makes it valuable for 
autumn and winter use. Pulled in October, before the balls have 
attained their full size, and stored under cover, they will keep good 
for several months. 

The Purple Goliath K. differs from the above only in the purple 
tinge of its ball. 

White Vienna Kohl-Rabi. — A handsome, very delicately 
formed, and early variety, differing from the Common White kind 

in the fewness and smallness of its leaves, 
which are seldom more than 8 or lo in. 
in length, with stalks no thicker than a 
goose-quill. The ball also forms more 
speedily in this variety, and is large enough 
to be eaten in two months and a half or 
three months from the time of sowing. 

Early Purple Vienna Kohl-Rabi. — 
This variety, the ball of which is purple, 
is in most other respects the same as the 
preceding kind, but without its delicacy of 
form or earliness. They are the two best 
kinds for kitchen-garden culture, especially 
for forcing or late sowings. 

The Artichoke-leaved Kohl-Rabi is a 
rather late and moderately productive 
variety, only remarkable for the peculiarity 
of its leaves, which are divided into segments, and at some distance 
look like the leaves of an Artichoke. 

The Neapolitajt Kohl-Rabi with curled leaves is, in fact, of 
more account as Borecole than as a Kohl-Rabi, as the swelling of 
the stem is often of very small dimensions. 




Vienna Kohl-Rabi 
("I" natural size). 



TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE (SWEDISH TURNIP) 

French, Chou-navet. German, Kohlrilbe, Wrucken. Flemish, Steekraap. Dutch, 
Koolraapen onder den grond. Danish, Roe. Italian, Cavolo navone. Spanish, 
Col nabo, Nabicol. Portuguese, Couve nabo. 

The varieties of Turnip-rooted Cabbages differ from the Kohl- 
Rabi in that, instead of having the stem swollen over-ground, they 
produce, partially buried in the soil, a thick root which is about as 
long as it is broad, resembling a huge Turnip, and of which the 
flesh is yellov/ in the Rutabagas or Swedish Turnips, and white in 
the other kinds. The characters of the leaves and flowers of these 
plants indicate plainly that they are true Cabbages, 

Culture. — All the varieties like a stiff and moist soil, and grow 
best in climates that are a little moist. They suffer from very hot 



TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE (SWEDISH TURNIP) 167 



weather, but are not affected by frost, one of their chief merits 
being their extreme hardiness. They are best sown, where the 
crop is to be grown, in May and June, and the plants are 
thinned out so as to leave a space of 14 to 16 in. from 
plant to plant in every direction, after which no other attention 
is necessary, except the occasional use of the hoe, and watering 
when needed. 

Uses. — The roots are eaten boiled, and have almost the same 
flavour as the Kohl-Rabi. They are in the best condition for table 
use if lifted before they have reached their full growth. The 
Swedish or Turnip-rooted Cabbage is an excellent vegetable, 
deserving to be more used than it is. 

White Swedish Turnip, or White Swede.— Root short and 
broad, somewhat top-shaped, and often irregular in form ; skin 
white, sometimes slightly 
tinged with green around the 
neck ; leaves 14 to 20 in. long, 
cut at the edges, and resem- 
bling those of the Kohl-Rabi. 
Flesh of the root white. 

Budlon^s White Improved 
Turnip, or Swede, an American 
variety of this, only differs 
from it in being rather rounder, 
perhaps, in shape. 

The Bredstone Swede, 
another American variety, is 
a regularly shaped root, more 
tapering than the White 
Swede, and appears to come 
midway between that and the 
White Smooth Short - leaf 
-Swede, described farther on. 
The flesh is white, delicate 
in flavour, and of excellent 
quality. 

White Purple-top 
Swedish Turnip. — A sub- 
variety of the VVhite Swede, 
froi^ which it differs only in the red or purple tinge of the neck 
of the root ; the leaf-stalks and the veins of the leaves also are 
•often of the same colour. Flesh of the root white. 

White Smooth Short-leaf Swedish Turnip.— A very distinct 
variety, with a flat root, broader than long, more clean-skinned and 
generally more regular in shape than the two preceding kinds. 
The leaves are shorter, more entire, and of a somewhat deeper 




White Swedish Turnip. 



i68 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




White Smooth Swedish Turnip 
natural size). 



green. This is especially a kitchen-garden variety, and is con- 
siderably earlier than any of the preceding kinds, so that it can be 

sown up to July. The flesh of the 
root is white. 

White Early Strap-leaf Swedish 
Turnip. — Root almost spherical and 
generally well-shaped ; the under- 
ground portion white, the upper 
part greenish or bronze-coloured ; 
neck very fine, leaves rather small 
in comparison with the size of the 
root, broad, oval or rounded and 
entire. The flesh of this Swede 
is very white, tender, and agree- 
able to the taste, specially if used 
before the root has attained its full 
Sj^^^^^ size. 

Green-top Swedish Turnip. — 
Root round, with a yellow skin, 
deeply tinged with green on the 
part over-ground, and especially around the neck. Flesh yellow. 

A variety which is almost the same as the Green-top Swede is 
found in the United States 
under the name oi American 
Green-top Yellow Rutabaga. 
It only differs from the other 
in having its leaves slightly 
twisted and almost curled. 

Under the name of Fiii- 
la?id Water-radish a plant 
used to be cultivated which 
did not appreciably differ 
from this, or, at the most, was 
only a form of it in which the 
root was slightly flattened. 

Yellow Purple - top 
Swedish Turnip.— This 
variety only differs from the 
preceding one in the root 
being a purplish red colour 
above - ground. In Great 
Britain, where Swedish 
Turnips are grown on a 

very large scale, and take mite Early Strap-leaf Swedish Turnip. 

almost the same place in 

field culture which the varieties of Mangold-Wurzel occupy 




TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE (SWEDISH TURNIP) 169 



in France, the Purple-top 
Swede is most in favour. 
Of this there are a great 
many forms, the most note- 
worthy of which are the 
Skirving, the Champion, 
Banghohn, Imperial, Hall's 
Westbury, and West Nor- 
folk, all of which are to be 
recommended for the great 
size and very regular form 
of their almost perfectly 
spherical roots ; the newer 
variety Monarch {syns. 
Elephant, Mammoth, 
Tankard), with an oval 
root ; also Laing's variety, 
which has an equally large 
and well-shaped root, and 
is especially distinguished 
by having the leaves entire. 
It is altogether owing to 
much grown in France as 





Oval Swedish Turnip. 



Yellow Purple-top Swedish Turnip (| natural size). 

the climate that Swedes are not so 
they are in England. Hot, dry 
summer weather is unfavour- 
able to this plant, which does 
best in a climate that is 
rather moist, and bears frost 
well. In Brittany, where the 
climate is nearly the same 
as that of England, Swedes 
are very extensively grown 
and do well. 

The Drummond, East 
Lothian, Bangholm, Im- 
perial, Hall's Westbury, West 
Norfolk, Shamrock Purple- 
top Swedes, the Fettercairn 
- Green-top Swede, and the 
■; Shepherd's Golden Globe 
Bronze-top Swede differ but 
little from the preceding 
varieties. 

Hartley's Bronze-top 
Swede, oval in shape and 
short in the collar, is largely 
cultivated in Canada. 



170 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Early Flat Yellow Swedish Turnip. 

smooth, and clean-skinned root, faintly 



Oval Monarch, Tankard, or Elephant Swedish Turnip. — 
A large, oval-shaped not deep-rooted variety ; the unburied portion 

red ; strong leaf - stalks ; 
leaves only slightly cut, 
^ 'r\^><^ with rounded edges and 

slightly crimped, A heavy 
cropper ; much grown in 
England for cattle-feeding. 

The variety called 
Kangaroo resembles the 
Oval Swede in shape and 
growth, but differs from it 
by the green-bronzy colour 
of the neck. 

Early Flat Yellow 
Swedish Turnip. — This is 
more a kitchen-garden than 
a field variety, with a flat, 
tinged with green on the 
upper part ; leaves rather few, short, and closely set. The root 
of this variety swells more speedily than that of any other kind, 
and it is the best for kitchen-garden culture. 

Other and true Turnips will be found in their place farther on 
in this book. 

Chinese Cabbage {Bi-assica sinensis^ L. ; Chinese, Pak-choi). 
Native of China. — Annual. — 
Although this plant is un- 
doubtedly a Cabbage, it is 
more like a Leaf-Beet or 
Chard. The leaves are ob- 
long or oval, dark shining 
green, and narrowed to a 
long, very white, swollen and 
fleshy stalk. It soon runs 
to seed, and the flower-stems 
resemble those of a Cabbage ; 
the seed-vessels, however, 
are shorter and thicker than 
those of the European 
Cabbages. The seed is 
round, small, and brown or 
blackish red. Their germi- 
nating power lasts for five 
years. 

Culture. — The Pak-choi grows rapidly, and may be sown 
almost all through the year. If sown in the spring, however, or in 




Chinese Cabbage. 



TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE (SWEDISH TURNIP) 171 



summer, the plants soon run to seed. Accordingly it is usually 

grown in the same way as Turnips ; that is, it is sown about the 
I end of July, or in August, for an autumn or early winter crop. 
J The seed is sown in drills, with a space of 16 to 20 in. between 
1 them, and the seedlings are thinned out two or three times. When ' 

they are fully grown, the leaves are often 20 in. long, including the 

stalk. The leaves are eaten boiled, like Borecole, and the ribs are 

sometimes sent to table like Asparagus, Broccoli, or Chard Beet. 
Heading Chinese Cabbage or Pe-Tsai {Brassica sinensis, 

L.,var.). Native of China. — Annual. — The Pe-tsai,like the Pak-choi, 
! differs entirely in appearance from the Cabbages of Europe, being 

rather like a Cos Lettuce in aspect. Like it, it sometimes forms a 
|l long, rather full and compact 
[I head, and sometimes grows in a 

plain cluster of half-erect leaves, 

disposed in the form of a funnel. 

The ribs are not so white as 

those of the Pak-choi ; they are 

pretty thick and fleshy, and 

the blade of the leaf, although 

narrower at the base, is continued 

down the whole length of the 

stalk. The leaves are slightly 

crimped, undulated at the edges, 

and pale or light green. The 

seed very much resembles that 

of the Pak-choi. Its germi- 
nating power lasts for five years. improved Heading Chinese Cabbage. 

The floral parts of the plant are 

similar to those of the Pak-choi, and both plants are cultivated 
and used in precisely the same manner. 

There has also been imported from China a form of Brassica 
sinensis with perfectly round dark green leaves, narrowed at the 
base into the stalk, forming extremely dense tufts or rosettes ; the 
flower-stems also are much shorter than those of the Pe-tsai or 
the Pak-choi. This plant does not appear to be of much account 
as a table vegetable. Botanically, it exhibits in excess the charac- 
teristics which distinguish Brassica sinensis from Brassica oleracea. 

Improved Heading Chinese or Pe-tsai Cabbage. — A fine 
strain of Chinese Cabbage, vigorous and rapid. It can be recom- 
mended as a winter vegetable for mild climates. The leaves are 
large, light green, and curved at the edge ; the rib is broad and 
white, only slightly bare at the base. The first leaves are spreading 
and curved outwards, the later ones cover one another like those of 
■a Cos Lettuce, and form a fine tall head, weighing easily 4 lb. and 
over. It should be sown during summer for use in the autumn 




172 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEX 



and winter. Successive sowings may be made in order to lengthen 
the period of production. Of a milder flavour than the European 
sorts, it may be eaten either raw or as a salad, or cooked. Boiled, 
minced, and seasoned with butter, it is as delicate in flavour as 
boiled Endive. In our grounds on the Riviera it has done very 
well ; sown in August and September, the heads were tit for use 
from November to February. 



CAPER-BUSH 

Capparis spinosa^ L. CapparidaceCB 

Fr£?ich, Caprier. German, Kapernstrauch. Flemish and Dutch, Kapper-boortu Italian, 
Cappero. Spanish, Alcaparra. Portuguese. Alcaparreira. 

A native of the south of Europe. — Perennial. — A shrub grow- 
ing 3 to 5 ft. high, with numerous branches, bearing a pair of 

hooked spines at the base 
of each leaf-stalk. Leaves- 
alternate, round, thick, and 
glistening ; flowers about 
2 in. in diameter, white,, 
with numerous violet 
stamens, ver\' pleasing in 
effect ; seed large, kidney- 
shaped, and gray-brown in 
colour. There is also a 
variety without spines, 
from which the crop is 
more easily gathered and 
without danger of wound- 
ing the hands. It is to 
be preferred to the spined 
one, and can be reproduced 
from seed. 

Culture. — The 
Caper-bush can only be 
cultivated profitably in the 
climate of the Olive-tree, 
where it is almost always planted in dry stony places, on embank- 
ments, declivities, and other positions which are difficult to utilise 
in any other way. It differs from most of the plants described 
in this work in being really a wiry bush, but as the buds are so 
much used in cookery, it is included here. In some of our Colonies 
it could be easily grown ; in England, or cold countries, it only 
lives when protected, and then with difficulty. We have, however, 
grown and flowered it in brick rubbish in a large pot. The flower 




Caper-bush (^^r natural size ; detached branch, 
\ natural size). 



CAPER-BUSH 



173 



is very beautiful and distinct, especially to those who do not know 
it, in countries where it grows freely. 

Uses.— Under the name of " Capers," the flower-buds, gathered 
when they are as large as Peas, are pickled in vinegar. They are 
valued in proportion to the smallness of their size. 

CAPSICUM, or RED PEPPER 

Capsicum annuum^ L. 

French^ Piment. German, Schotenpfefifer. Flemish and Butch, Spaansche peper. 
Italian, Peperone. Spanish, Pimiento. Portuguese, Pimento. 

Native of South America. — Under cultivation this plant is 
an annual, although several species may be perennial in warm 
countries. — All of them have erect, branching stems, which become 
almost woody. The leaves are spear-shaped or more or less 
widened, terminating in a point, and narrowed at the base into a 
more or less elongated stalk ; flowers white, star-shaped, solitary in 
the axils of the leaves, and succeeded by seed-vessels very diversi- 
fied in shape, with a somewhat fleshy skin, at first dark green 
turning to red, yellow, or dark violet when ripe, always hollow, 
and containing white, flat, kidney-shaped seeds, attached in great 
numbers to a sort of fleshy cord. These seeds, and also the 
interior tissue of the seed-vessel of most of the varieties, contain 
an acrid juice which is very hot or burning to the taste. Their 
germinating power lasts for four years. 

Culture. — The Capsicum is grown in the same manner as the 
Egg-plant {see Egg-plant). In the climate of Paris, all the varieties 
require to be sown in a hot-bed, and even in the south of France 
this practice is followed, at least in the case of the large-fruited 
kinds. In Spain, where they are very extensively grown, they 
are almost always forwarded by sowing in February under a 
frame, the seedlings being planted out in the open air towards 
the end of April. 



Capsicums may in some warm 
parts of England be successfully 
grown in the open air, but where 
large supplies are needed it is 
advisable to have some under glass 
also, in- case of failure of the out- 
door crop. The seeds should be 
sown early in April, on a gentle 
hot-bed, or in pots or pans well 
drained and filled with sandy loam 
and leaf-mould in equal parts ; and 
if plunged in a gentle bottom heat 



they will germinate more quickly, 
and the plants will be much stronger 
than when only placed on plain 
shelves, etc. As soon as the plants 
are large enough they should either 
be potted off singly into 4 in. pots, 
or three plants placed triangularly 
in 6 or 8 in. ones. In the latter 
case, it will be found best to only 
fill the pots three-parts full at first, 
with a view to earthing them up 
when the soil becomes full of roots. 



174 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



In order to have dwarf and healthy 
plants, it is necessary to place them 
as close to the glass as possible, in 
a temperature of 65° to 70°, giving 
them plenty of water and admitting 
air freely. Plants that are potted 
into 4 in. pots should not be 
allowed to become pot-bound, but 
be shifted into 6 or 8 in. ones. 

Those plants that are to be turned 
out of doors should be gradually 
hardened off towards the latter end 
of May, and in June they may be 
planted out into a warm border 
under a south wall. They should 
be planted 10 or 12 in. apart, well 
watered when necessary, and in the 
event of cold weather setting in 
should have some slight protection 
afforded them; and if the season 
be favourable, they will ripen their 
fruit from the end of August to the 
middle of September. It is only in 
the warm southern counties that we 
have seen a good result with Cap- 
sicums in the open air. 

Where there are pits or frames 
available for growing Capsicums, 
they are the best places in which 
to grow them. Frames recently 
cleared of Early Potatoes answer 
the purpose capitally. The plants 
should be put in i ft. apart, kept 
well watered at the roots, and be 
frequently syringed overhead on 
sunny afternoons, and shut up with 
plenty of sun-heat. When in flower, 
abundance of air must be given 
them, to assist them to set their 
fruit, after which time liberal sup- 
plies of manure-water may be given 
them with advantage. By adopting 
this method it is astonishing the 
quantities of fine large fruit that can 
be gathered from a three-light frame. 

A light, rich soil, composed of 
turfy loam, rotted leaf-mould, and 
cow-manure in equal parts, with a 
little silver sand added, is best 
suited to them; but when grown 



and fruited in pots, a more solid 
soil will be found best. 

Well-ripened pods of Capsicums 
will keep good for several years if 
placed on a dry shelf, and the seed 
will germinate at six or seven years 
old if kept in the pods until it is 
sow^n. 

Insects, etc. — The principal 
enemies of the Capsicum are green 
fly and red spider ; the fly may be 
easily kept in subjection by fumiga- 
tion, and the spider by a free use 
of the syringe on the foliage, and 
maintaining a warm, humid atmo- 
sphere. Those planted out-of-doors 
are generally most affected by red 
spider. The best way in this case 
is to give the plants frequent water- 
ings overhead and at the roots, and 
promote a free growth. Curl in the 
leaf and fruit may often occur in 
outdoor plants in the autumn ; this 
is, however, more or less occasioned 
by the cold nights, following days 
of extreme heat. The remedy is to 
shade slightly during the day, and 
afford a w^arm covering at night. In 
the many districts where the culture 
of Capsicums may not be possible 
in the open air, the pits, frames, 
and houses, often little used during 
the summer months, offer good 
places in which to grow them. 

In the London market-gardens 
Capsicums are grown in Cucumber- 
houses or similar places where a 
brisk heat and plenty of moisture 
are maintained. The seeds are 
sown in pots in April, and when 
large enough the young plants are 
potted six or eight together in an 
8 in. pot in good rich soil and put 
on stages in a well-lighted position. 
Plenty of water is given them 
whilst growing. Some plant them 
out in frames, and in this way 
obtain abundance of fruit, but the 
most profitable way is pot-culture 
or frame-culture. 



CAPSICUM, OR RED PEPPER 



175 



Uses. — The seed-pods, green or ripe, are much used as season- 
ing, especially in hot countries ; they are also pickled in vinegar. 
When dried and ground, they make cayenne or red pepper. The 
pods of some of the large kinds, which are very fleshy and not hot, 
are used as vegetables in about the same way as Egg-plants. A 
good instance of the slowness with which the use of vegetables 
is made known is afforded by the large green mild variety of 
Capsicum, which is so much eaten over a great part of Spain and 
some of the adjoining French departments. It was carried by the 
Spaniards into Naples during their dominion there in the sixteenth 
and seventeenth centuries, and has since remained in common use 
there, without spreading farther. It makes an excellent salad, 
having all the flavour of the Capsicum without pungency, and 
enters into various light and pleasant dishes of the Italian and 
Spanish cooks. 

Common Capsicum. — A great many, if not all, of the culti- 
vated varieties of Capsicum appear to have been derived from 



growth just described. The seed-vessels are pendent, slender, long, 
conical in shape, often curved and twisted, sometimes 4 to 5 in. 
in length, and abo^ut i in. in diameter at the base. When ripe, 
they are a very fine brilliant red, and usually rather hot to the 




this species, which is success- 
fully cultivated in the climate 
of Paris as an annual, with 
the assistance of a little 
artificial heat at the com- 
mencement of its growth. It 
grows pretty tall, has leaves 
longer than broad, white and 
rather small flowers, and 
usually long seed-pods. The 
acrid or burning principle in 
the seed-pods is in inverse 
proportion to their size. The 
large kinds are usually mild 
in flavour, the medium-sized 
sometimes mild and some- 
times the reverse, while the 
small kinds are invariably 
very pungently hot to the 
taste. 



Long Red Spanish Pepper. 



Long Red Capsicum, 
or Guinea Pepper. — This 
variety, which is the most 
extensively grown of all, 
has all the characteristics of 



1/6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



taste, but in this respect great differences occur between one plant 
and another, without any external indication to mark which are 
very hot and which are mild in flavour. 

Long Cayenne Pepper. — Under the occasional name of Long 
Cayenne Pepper, a sub-variety of the preceding kind is grown, 
which has the seed-vessels narrower, slightly curved at the end, 
pendent, seldom more than | in. in diameter and about 3 in. in 




Long Cayenne Pepper. Cardinal Pepper. 



length, and always very hot to the taste. This plant, however, 
should not be confounded with the true Cayenne Pepper, which is 
a perennial and belongs to a different species, too tender for the 
climate of France. 

Cardinal Pepper. — A distinct strain of Long Red Pepper, 
less than i ft. in height, of compact, bushy, vigorous growth, 
characterised not only by its small stature but also by its earliness 
and the great size of the seed-vessels. The latter are very red in 
colour, slightly curved and undulated, and should be mild to the 
taste. 

Long Yellow Capsicum. — This variety only differs from the 
Spanish or Guinea Pepper in the colour of the seed-vessels, which 



CAPSICUM, OR RED PEPPER 



177 



are bright glistening yellow, and usually very hot 
in flavour, seldom more than 4 in. long, slender 
in shape, and often slightly curved. 

Long Black Mexican Pepper.— Seed-vessel 
thin, straight or slightly undulated, 7 to 9 in. in 
length, shining black, as pungent as the Cayenne 
Pepper. Quite distinct from the other sorts of 
Capsicums. 




Long Yellow Pepper. 



Long Black Mexican Pepper 



Chili Pepper, or Chillies. — The appearance of this variety is 
very distinct from that of the other kinds, as it has a very 
branching, rather low- 
growing stem, the spread- 
ing branches of which 
form a dwarf broad bush, 
seldom more than 16 to 
20 in. high. Leaves small, 
narrow, and numerous ; 
flowers small and white, 
succeeded by slender and 
long-pointed seed-vessels 
about 2 in. long and 
scarcely f in. in diameter, 
very often growing erect, 
very bright scarlet when 

12 




Chili Pepper, or Chillies. 



178 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




ripe, and very hot to the taste ; they are produced in the greatest 
abundance, sometimes appearing to equal the leaves in number. 

This is one of the earliest 
and most productive kinds, 
and is the most suitable 
variety for gardens in the 
north of France. In ad- 
dition to its value as a 
kitchen-garden plant, it 
is also highly ornamental, 
from the fine effect pro- 
duced by the numerous 
brilliant - coloured seed- 
vessels relieved against 
the green of the foliage. 

The Coral Gem 
Bouquet Pepper is a very 
pretty American variety 
of the above, producing 
numerous short and regu- 
larly shaped bright red 
fruit, in bouquets resem- 
bling clusters of coral. 

Red Cluster Pepper. 
— A compact, much- 
branching plant, with numerous small leaves, and an abundance 
of flowers at the ends of the branches, succeeded by branches 
of slender, pointed pods, curved, and bright red ; not so long as 
those of the Chili Pepper, but much 
thinner and pungent. 

Cherry Pepper. — Some botanists 
make this a different species under the 
name of Capsicum cerasiforme. In its 
habit of growth, however, it comes 
very close to the varieties of Capsicum 
annuumy and is distinguished from the 
Spanish or Guinea Pepper by the shape 
of its seed-vessels, which are almost 
spherical, with a diameter of nearly i in. 
in all directions. They are extremely 
hot to the taste, and somewhat late in 
ripening. In support of the opinion 
that this Pepper is simply a variety 
of Capsicum annuum^ it is often found 
bearing seed-vessels more or less long in shape, and apparently 
reverting to the common Spanish or Guinea variety. 



Red Cluster Pepper. 




Cherry Pepper (branch, ^^,5 ; 
fruit, \ natural size). 



CAPSICUM, OR RED PEPPER 



179 




Large Bell Pepper or Capsicum 
natural size). 



There is a sub-variety of it with yellow seed-vessels, veiy 
seldom met with in cultivation, 
and which, except in the colour 
of its seed-vessels, exactly re- 
sembles the ordinary Cherry 
Pepper. 

Cranberry Pepper. — A Chili 
Pepper with round, erect, very 
numerous fruits, smaller than in 
the Cherry Pepper, and hardly 
larger than big peas. They form 
compact bouquets, and have a 
very burning taste. This Pepper 
possesses the same qualities as 
the Chili Pepper, and can be used 
as a condiment or as a plant for 
ornament 

Large Bell Pepper or 
Capsicum. — A rather thick-set 
plant, with large leaves of light 
green ; branches short and stiff ; 
flowers large, and often irregular in form ; seed-vessels blunt and 
squared at the ends, with four deep furrows and four corresponding 

prominent ridges along 
the sides ; flesh rather 
thick ; seeds few. This 
Pepper is entirely free 
from the acrid or burning 
pungency which charac- 
terises some other kinds. 
The variety of it which 
is most commonly grown 
produces seed-vessels 
about 2 in. in length and 
the same in diameter. 
This is a form that may 
be eaten as a vegetable, 
and a very pleasant ad- 
dition it is, as the Italians 
cook it. Of late years 
this variety has been 
partly superseded by the 
Improved Bull-nose Cap- 
sicum, described hereafter. 
In the south of France 
Improved Bull-nose Pepper. and in Spain a form is 




i8o 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Ruby King Pepper. 

scarlet ; fleshy, and mild in 
seeds, which to the seed- 
grower is a great drawback, 
although an advantage in 
cooking. 

Ruoy King Capsicum. 
— A very productive variety, 
with large, red seed-vessels, 
somewhat variable in shape, 
square near the stalk, and 
more or less tapering at the 
top. 

Golden Dawn Capsi- 
cum. — There are several 
known strains of Yellow 
Bell-shaped Capsicums,some 
of them with erect-growing 
fruit, and others in which 
the fruit is pendent. Of 
these the Golden Dawn 
Capsicum is the most in- 
teresting and profitable to 



cultivated which has the 
seed-vessels much larger 
and somewhat rounder 
in shape, but with the 
furrows very deeply 
marked, especially to- 
wards the end of the 
seed-vessel. It is not 
unusual, in this variety, to 
see seed-vessels measuring 
from 3 to 4 in. across 
every way. It is a very 
late kind, and does not 
keep well. 

Improved Bull-nose, 
or Sweet Mountain, 
Capsicum. — A smaller 
plant, less branching, not 
so leafy, and decidedly 
earlier than the Large 
Bell Capsicum. The seed- 
vessels also are larger, 
smoother, and fewer ; in 
colour a very fine glossy 
flavour. The pods contain very few 




Golden Dawn Pepper. 



CAPSICUM, OR RED PEPPER 



i8r 




grow. It is a dwarf branch- 
ing plant, with pendent 
seed-vessels about ij in. 
in length and of about the 
same thickness ; in colour 
a beautiful bright yellow, 
sometimes orange. It is 
fairly productive, and about 
as early as the Sweet 
Mountain Capsicum. 

Mammoth Golden 
Queen Capsicum. — A 
strong plant, with abundant 
leaves of dark green colour, 
and slightly spoon-shaped. 
For earliness it equals the 
Golden Dawn Capsicum, 
and surpasses the Sweet 
Spanish Capsicum. It is 
distinguished from both by 
the greater size of its seed- 
vessels. 

Monstrous Capsicum.- 
up to a certain point, intermediate between those of the Guinea 
Pepper and those of the Bell Pepper, but they surpass both in size. 

They are an irregular 
ovoid or conical shape, 
swollen in the part next 
the stalk, and narrowed 
at the other end, usually'^ 
more abruptly on one 
side than on the other, 
so that one side is 
generally quite convex, 
while the other is rriore 
or less concave. The 
appearance of the seed- 
vessel is well indicated 
by the name of Sheep's- 
head Pepper, which is 
sometimes given to it. 
Well grown, it measures 
about 6 in. in length, 
with a diameter of about 
3 in. in the thickest part ; 

ripe, it is a 



Mammoth Golden Queen Pepper. 

-The seed-vessels of this variety are 




Monstrous Capsicum natural size). 



and, when 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



fine deep red and perfectly mild in flavour, and therefore one of 
the kinds that have a distinct value for use in the green state. 
Elephant's Trunk Capsicum. — Seed-pod bright red, large, 

thick. Broad, and more or less ribbed 
at the base, tapering progressively 
towards the end. Like most large- 
fruited Peppers, it is mild in flavour. 
In growth and productiveness it 
resembles the Monstrous Pepper, from 
which it has probably been derived. 

Spanish Mammoth Capsicum. 
— The seed-vessels of this variety 
resemble those of the Monstrous 
Capsicum in size, but their shape is 
that of a cone, or rather a prism, 
with rounded angles and truncate 
at the end. They are 6 or 7 in. in 
length, with a diameter of between 
2 and 3 in. at the base, and rather 
more than i in. at the extremity. 
They are very handsome, and very 
mild in flavour. 

Of this variety there are two 
forms, one of which has bright red, 
and the other fine yellow seed-vessels. 
Only in very warm climates do the 
seed-vessels attain their full size. Very fair specimens of it, 
which have come from Valencia or Algeria, may be seen in Paris, 
in the shops where the produce of the south of Europe is sold ; 
but it is almost impossible to grow anything like them in the 
climate of Paris. 

Red Tomato Capsi- 
cum, or American Bonnet 
Pepper. — This Pepper 
has some resemblance to 
the Bell Pepper, but the 
seed - vessels are much 
shorter, and are marked 
with numerous ribs and 
furrows, like some kinds 
of Tomato. When ripe, 
they are of a fine bright 
red, and measure about 
2 in. across and about i in. in depth. This is not a very productive 
kind, and is chiefly interesting on account of the singular shape 
of the seed-vessels, which are usually mild in flavour and only hot 




Spanish Mammoth Capsicum 
natural size). 




Red Tomato, or Squash, Pepper. 



CAPSICUM, OR RED PEPPER 



183 




Early Dwarf Red Squash Pepper 



in exceptional cases ; the flesh is always rather dry and thin. 
There is a sub-variety with yellow seed-vessels. 

Early Dwarf Red Squash 
Capsicum. — Of dwarfer habit, 
less leafy, and earlier than the 
Tomato Capsicum, and therefore 
a good substitute for it in places 
where that fails to ripen its pods, 
although the fruit is not perhaps 
quite as regular in shape. The 
fruit is sometimes pungent. 

Celestial Capsicum. — Of 
medium size, erect, and branch- 
ing. It is something like the 
Chili Pepper, but smaller and 
not so bushy. The pods are 
numerous, erect, and conical ; 
in colour white, striped purple 
at first, which gradually changes to yellow, and finally to 
scarlet. The contrasting colours of the pods on the same plant 
are strangely effective. 

Other varieties: — 

Violet-coloured or Black Capsicum. — A vigorous plant, often 
over 3 ft. in height, with violet stems. Fruit variable in shape, 

sometimes short conical, 
but oftenest four times 
as long as broad ; deep 
violet -red when ripe. 
Very pungent. 

Chinese Giant 
Pepper. — A late, leafy 
variety, with large square 
fruit of a brilliant red. 

Kaleidoscope Capsi- 
cum. — This plant has 
the fine shape of the 
Celestial Pepper, with 
spreading branches. 
Fruit at first yellow- 
white, changing to orange, 
and then rose or pale red. 

Procopp's Giant 
Capsicum. — A kind of 
Monstrous Capsicum, the 
fruits being very large, bumpy, and twisted like those of the 
French varieties. 




Celestial Capsicum. 



i84 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Golden Upright Capsicum. — A small and early variety, with 
upris^ht square pods of beautiful yellow. 

The names of Bird's-beak Pepper and Mad Pepper are some- 
times given to the seed-vessels of the smallest varieties of Capsicmn 
annuum, which are remarkably hot to the taste ; but, properly 
speaking, these names should be applied to the seed-vessels of 
Capsicum frutesccns^ which only grows well in tropical climates 

CARAWAY 

Carum Carvi, L. Umbelliferce 

French^ Carvi, Cumin des pres. Gertnan, Feld-Kummel. Dtitck, Karvij. Danish, 
Kommen. Italian, Carvi. Spanish, Alcaravea. Portuguese, Alcaravia. 

Native of Europe. — Annual or biennial. — Root as thick as 

compact flesh, which has, 
a slight carrot flavour ; 
leaves chiefly radical, 
numerous, composed of 
opposite whorled leaflets ; 
leaf-stalk channelled, 
hollow and undulated ; 
stem straight, i to 2 ft. 
high, branching, angular, 
and smooth; flowers small, 
white, in umbels ; seeds 
oblong, rather curved, 
marked with five furrows, 
aromatic, and of a light 
brown colour. Their 
germinating power lasts 
for three years. 

Culture.— The seeds 
are often gathered in the 
meadows, where the plant 
grows naturally. When 
the plant is cultivated, the 
seed is sown in drills, in 
May or June. As soon as the seedlings are pretty strong, they 
are thinned out, and nothing further is required, except to keep 
the ground free from weeds, until the crop is gathered in July 
of the year after that in which the seed was sown. By sowing 
some of the seed as soon as it is ripe, plants may be raised which 
will run to seed in the summer of the following year, and a month 
or two may thus be saved in the cultivation of the crop, as 
compared with the ordinary mode of sowing. 

Uses. — The root may be eaten, but is seldom so used. The 



the thumb, long, yellowish, with white 




Caraway. 



CARAWAY 



leaves and young shoots are sometimes eaten. The seeds are used 
for flavouring bread in Germany and other countries, and certain 
kinds of cheese in Holland. They are of very ancient use, and are 
still used in bread, pastry^ cheese, sweets, and saucea 

CARDOON 

Cynara Cardunculus, L. CompositcB 

French^ Cardon. Gertnan^ Kardone, Cardy. Flemish^ Kardoen Italian^ Spanish, and 

Portuguese, Cardo. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — Notwithstanding the 
different botanical names which have been given to them, the 
Artichoke and the Cardoon appear to belong to the same species, 
cultivation having, in the case of the latter, developed the leaf- 
stalks, and, in the former, the receptacle of the flower. The 
Cardoon is a larger plant than the Artichoke, and of a more 
vigorous habit of growth, but the botanical characteristics and the 
general appearance of both present the greatest analogy to each 
other. In the Cardoon, the stem, which attains a height of from 
4 to 6J ft., is channelled and of a whitish hue ; the leaves are very 
large, pinnated, slightly gray-green on the upper surface, and 
almost white underneath, and armed, in several varieties, at the 
angle of each division with very finely pointed yellow or brown 
spines from about 5- in. to over \ in. long. The very fleshy leaf- 
stalks or ribs are the edible part of the plant. The flowers, which 
have usually pointed scales, resemble those of the Artichoke, but 
are smaller. The seed is thick, oblong, rather flat, and angular, 
gray, striped or streaked with dark brown. Their germinating 
power lasts for seven years. 

Culture. — Unlike the Artichoke, which is almost always 
propagated by means of offsets, the Cardoon is always raised 
from seed, which is usually sown in May, in holes or " pockets " 
filled with compost, and made at a distance of about a yard from 
one another in every direction. It might be sown earlier in pans 
on a hot-bed, but this practice has few advantages, as the Cardoon 
has ample time to develop itself during the summer and autumn, and 
is not a vegetable that is sought after before its natural season. The 
ground must be kept very clean, and the plants should be plentifully 
watered through the summer. As they will not have grown large 
enough to touch one another before September, the ground between 
the rows may be utilised in the meantime by sowing some other 
crop there. The stalks or ribs are blanched by tying them together 
and wrapping them round with straw, which is also tied up with 
cord, bast, etc. The plants are then earthed up, and left so for 
about three weeks, when the stalks or ribs will be in proper 
condition for use ; but if left longer than this, they will be in danger 



THE VEGETABLE GARDExN 



of rotting. The Cardoon does not bear frost ; therefore, before 
severe weather comes on, the plants should be taken up and placed 
in a vegetable-house for winter use. 



The Cardoon, if treated in the 
same manner as Celery, will gene- 
rally be found to succeed ; the 
only difference is in the mode 
of blanching, which requires more 
care than blanching Celery. Tho- 
rough blanching is essential, in 
order to bring out the delicacy of 
flavour possessed by the Cardoon, 
without which it is worthless. It is 
better to have small heads well 
blanched and crisp than to have 
large rank ones half-blanched, and 
consequently tough and strong. In 
order to have good tender heads, it 
is necessary to grow the plants from 
the beginning to the time of blanch- 
ing w^ithout a check, and this can 
only be done by planting them in 
deep, rich soil, and keeping them 
well supplied with water at the 
roots during dry weather. 

Where Cardoons are in demand 
early in winter, it is necessary to 
sow seeds of them in heat early in 
March, and to transplant in either 
May or June, according to the 
weather. For this purpose seed may 
either be sown in small pots and 
placed in a warm house, or sown in 
drills 4 or 5 in. apart, in a gentle 
hot-bed. Sowing in pots is, how- 
ever, considered to be the best, in- 
asmuch as the plants can be more 
easily removed when required to be 
hardened off, and they are not so 
liable to a check when transplanted 
as when hfted out of a bed. The 
best-sized pots for the purpose are 
4-in. ones, in each of which should 
be sown four or five seeds, thinning 
out the plants as they advance in 
growth, and finally leaving only the 
strongest one. They should be 
placed close to the glass, where 
they will get plenty of light and air 



to keep them strong and stubby, 
gradually hardening them, off early 
in May ; and towards the end of the 
month they may be transferred to 
the trenches in which they are to 
grow, if the weather be favourable, 
planting them from 2| to 3 ft. apart 
in the row. It is not well to sow 
too early, as the plants become 
pot-bound before they can be planted 
out, and consequently checked in 
growth. A second sowing may be 
made in May in open trenches, and 
the main sowing early in June. 
The trenches should measure at least 
4 ft. from centre to centre, and be 
dug 2 ft. wide and 18 in. deep. 
Into the bottom of these should be 
placed 2 or 3 in. of good rotten 
manure, which should be dug in 
with a fork, and well incorporated 
with the soil in the bottom of the 
trench. The seeds should then be 
sown in patches from 2^ to 3 ft. 
apart, and slightly covered with fine 
soil well watered, and flower-pots 
should be placed over them until the 
plants are up, when they may be 
removed and the weakest plants 
thinned out, eventually allowing 
only the strongest to remain. The 
subsequent treatment consists in 
keeping them well supplied with 
water at the roots until the end of 
September, when they will have 
nearly completed their growth, and 
when they will require moulding up. 
Those planted earlier will, however, 
be ready before that time, and should 
be earthed up as early as possible 
— the aim in this case generally 
being earliness rather than large 
heads. 

Tying and Earthing up. — 
Choose a fine day, when the foliage 
of the plants and the soil are dry. 



CARDOON 



187 



The leaves should be carefully 
brought to an upright position, and 
then placed neatly together and tied 
with broad pieces of matting. A 
good armful of dry hay or straw 
should then be placed round the 
base of each plant, and secured by 
strong haybands being wound round 
it, gradually narrowing to the top, 
leaving only the tips of the leaves 
bare. This done, the soil between 
the trenches should be turned over 
and well broken with the spade, and 
afterwards placed equally and firmly 
round the plants, forming an even 
ridge by beating the sides with the 
back of the spade. The plants will 
be well blanched and fit for use four 
or five weeks after earthing. Blanch- 
ing may also be done by placing a 



drainpipe over the plants, after tying 
the leaves closely together, the 
apertures between the plants and 
pipes being filled with sand. This 
plan, though a good one, is too 
expensive where many plants are 
grown. Many hft their Cardoons on 
the appearance of severe weather, 
and place them in dry cellars or 
sheds from which frost is excluded. 
This is really unnecessary so far 
as the plants are concerned, as 
they can be effectively protected by 
placing litter, etc., along the ridges ; 
but there is one advantage in lifting 
them, and that is, they may be got 
at easily in hard weather, whereas 
those left out-of-doors sometimes 
cannot be dug out without much 
labour. 



Uses. — The blanched stalks or ribs of the inner leaves are 
chiefly used as a winter vegetable, as well as the main root, which 
is thick, fleshy, tender, and of an agreeable flavour. Cooked in a 
delicate way, it is ex- 
cellent ; the degree 
tenderness to which it is 
boiled should be studied, 
and the sauce should not 
be rank with salt and 
spice. 

Prickly Tours Car- 
doon. — This is one of the 
smaller varieties, and has 
very thick and solid stalks 
or ribs. On the other 
hand, it is the most spiny 
kind of all, which, however, 
does not prevent it from 
holding the first place in 
the estimation of the 
market-gardeners of Tours 
and Paris. 

Ivory-white Cardoon. 
— Smaller and much less 
spiny than the Tours 
Cardoon, it has numerous 

very fleshy ribs of fine Prickly Tours Cardoon (f^ natural size). 




i88 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



quality and very tender ; remarkable also for their very 
pale yellow colour and the facility with which they can be 
blanched. 

Smooth Solid Cardoon. — This variety, which is almost spine- 
less, is rather larger than the preceding, has longer leaves 
and ribs, and grows from about 4 to 4J ft high. The ribs are 
always broader than those of the Prickly Tours Cardoon, but 
not so thick, yet they become hollow sooner, if the plant is allowed 
to suffer ever so little from drought or want of nourishment. The 
leaves arc neither quite so much cut nor quite so whitish in hue as. 
those of the Prickly Tours variety. 




Ivory-white Cardoon, 



Long Spanish Cardoon. — A large variety, which is chiefly 
grown in the south of Europe, with large, broad-ribbed leaves. 
It is not spiny, but the ribs are not so solid as those of the preceding 
varieties. 

Artichoke-leaved Cardoon {Cardon Puvis), — A very distinct 
spineless variety. Leaves very broad and large, not much cut, and 
dark green. It is a vigorous plant, with broad ribs, usually half- 
solid, and is chiefly grown about Lyons, where it attains about the 
same height as the Smooth Solid Cardoon, but is broader in all its 
parts. 



CARDOON 



189 



In some varieties the lower part of the leaf is more or less 
coloured with purple or red ; such as the Red-stemmed and the 




Smooth Solid Cardoon (^V natural size). Artichoke-leaved Cardoon. 



Purple Cardoon, but they have now gone out of cultivation, their 
ribs generally being wanting in firmness, and their red or purple 
colour being against them. 

CARROT 

Daucus Carota, L. UmbellifercB 

French, Carotte. German, Mohre, Gelbrube. Dutch, Wortel. Italian, Carota. 
Spanish, Zanahoria. Portuguese, Cenoura. 

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — The root of this plant, when 
artificially developed by cultivation, exhibits the widest differences 
in shape, size, and colour. The leaves are very much divided, and 
twice or thrice pinnate, the divisions being deeply cut and pointed. 
The flowers, produced in umbels, are small, white, crowded together, 
and with long linear bracts, and are borne on the top of a stem 



igo 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



from 2 to 3 ft. high, and do not appear until the year after the 
seed is sown. The seeds are small, green or gray-brown, slightly 
convex on one side and flat on the other, channelled, and set 
with recurved points or bristles on two of the ridges ; they have 
a very strong, peculiar, aromatic odour. Their germinating power 
lasts for five years. 

Culture. — The cultivation of the Carrot is most simple. The 
seed is sown in the open ground, where the crop is to be grown, 
from February to autumn. The soil should be well prepared by 
being manured, if possible, six months at least beforehand, and 
deeply dug for the long-rooted varieties. As soon as the plants 
appear, hoe, and continue to hoe as long as the crop remains in the 
ground. This operation will be found all the easier if the plants are 
sown in drills. The seedlings are thinned out two or three times, 
leaving them more or less far apart according to the size of the kind 
grown. The short and very early varieties are most usually sown 
broadcast, either in the open air or under a frame. A first thinning- 
out is made while the plants are young, and afterwards the removal 
of such as have grown large enough for eating gradually makes 
room for the slower-growing ones that are left. By making sue- 
cessional sowings, crops of Carrots may be obtained from April to 
June on hot-beds, and from July to November in the open ground. 
In November the plants should be pulled up and stored for winter 
use in a dry, sheltered place. Sometimes they are left in the 
ground, covered with straw, leaves, or earth, and dug up as they 
are required for the table. Plants sown late in the open ground, 
and protected in severe weather by a covering of some kind, will 
sometimes get through the winter, and yield an early crop in the 
ensuing spring. 



Carrots require a good, light, warm 
soil, well trenched, and which has 
been previously well manured. Sow- 
ing must be done in dry weather ; 
for, should a shower happen soon 
after the seed is in the ground, the 
crop will, in most cases, be a 
failure, if not sown again imme- 
diately. Drills ought to be pre- 
ferred to broadcast sowing. On 
account of its numerous bristles, 
Carrot-seed is somewhat difficult to 
sow with regularity ; therefore it is 
mixed with sand or dry soil. This 
difficulty is obviated now by buying 
cleaned seed from seedsmen. Lay- 
ing the seed in wet sand or wet 
loam a few days before sowing, in 



order to stimulate germination, was 
once much practised] but this 
method is now seldom employed. 
It may, however, do under some 
circumstances; for instance, in 
forcing and sowing in the open 
ground, where drought is feared. 

Forcing. — The French Forcing 
and the Scarlet Horn Carrots are 
best for the purpose, but the former 
is to be preferred. Prepare mild 
hot-beds 2| ft. high in November or 
December and 1 1 or 2 ft. in January 
or February ; put on the frames,, 
cover the bed with 5 or 6 in. of 
rich soil or mould, and, as soon as 
the whole is sufficiently heated, sow 
the seed broadcast,, cover with i in. 



CARROT 



of mould, smooth the surface, and 
cover the glass with mats until the 
seed comes up. Should the interior 
get dry, give a slight watering, 
but be careful of damp. When the 
plants have four or five leaves, thin 
them I in. apart ; admit air as often 
as the temperature will allow it, 
which will give strength to the 
seedlings. Take care the heat does 
not exceed 60° during the day and 
50° at night, which may be easily 
regulated by tilting the glass. In 
the case of sharp frost, covering 
with mats is preferable to artificial 
heat. Shading, if needed, must not 
be omitted. Sowing in November, 
if carried on practically, will produce 
fine young Carrots at the end of 
February, which will last through 
March and April. Subsequent sow- 
ings — in December for March to 
April, in January for April to May, 
and, lastly, in February for April to 
June — must be attended to as re- 
quired by market-gardeners ; but, 
in private gardens, the first bed 
should be made in November and 
the second in January ; these will 
afford an ample supply until new 
open-ground Carrots are fit for use. 
Where frames are not available, pre- 
pare, at the beginning of February, 
in some warm corner, a bed of hot 
manure mixed with leaves, covered 
with 4 or 5 in. of mould; sow the 
seed and protect with mats supported 
by sticks or other apparatus. As 
soon as the seed comes up, remove 
the covering every day as frequently 
as the weather will permit, and the 
crop will be ready from the end of 
April to the end of May. 

Early and Main Crops. — For 
the first outdoor crop the seed should 
be sown in February, on a warm, 
dry border, in 5 in. drills; cover 
the seed with J in. of fine mould ; 
when the young plants have formed 
a few leaves, thin them to i or 2 in. 



apart, hoeing and watering as re- 
quired. The crop should be ready 
by the end of May, and will last 
until the general crop comes in. 
The best variety for this purpose is 
the Scarlet Horn. In June sow the 
same kind of Carrot again, if small 
roots be preferred. Intermediate 
Scarlet and Intermediate Nantes are 
the best varieties for general crops. 
Sow from March to May (the latter 
month for winter Carrots), in well- 
prepared soil, in 9 to 12 in. drills, 
J in. deep. As the Carrots make 
their appearance, hoeing, weeding, 
watering, and thinning them to ^ in. 
apart should be duly attended to. 
As soon as the plants attain the 
size of a lead pencil, thin them to 
3 or 4 in. apart without hesitation. 
Thinning generally receives too 
little attention in every country; and 
the Carrots, crowded when young, 
are left to be taken up for use when 
they have attained sufficient size. 
In most cases the ground gets dry 
and hard, and thus prevents the 
lifting of the roots, which are then 
left until the autumn, when only 
small, useless Carrots are the result. 

Autumn Sowing. — In Augustand 
September, select a warm border. 
Sow French Forcing or Scarlet Horn 
Carrot, as for the early crop. The 
roots must remain in the ground the 
whole winter ; but if well protected 
and the bed covered with i in. of 
mould, healthy little Carrots will be 
ready from February until May. 

Storing. — In October, before 
the frosts occur, and on a fine day, 
take up the crop, cut the leaves | in. 
from the top, clear the roots from 
soil, and store them at once in a 
cold shed or cellar; there arrange 
them in tiers, spreading between 
each a layer of sand or dry soil, up 
to the height of 3 ft., the length 
being determined by the quantity 
fo roots ; two boards will secure the 



192 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



ends of the pile. By this means 
the roots can be easily and often 
examined, and those that are decayed 
removed. On the first symptoms of 
vegetation appearing, pull down the 
pile and build it again, and this 
method will enable the Carrots to 
be kept in a good state as late as 
possible. Anothermethod. — In open 
ground, in a dry place, remove the 
soil to the depth of i ft., trench the 
bottom, adding some sand if pos- 
sible ; plant the roots vertically close 
to each other, and protect from frost 
and from wet. The objection to 
this plan is, that decay cannot be 
attentively watched, and vegetation 
is much more liable to be excited, 
to prevent which the roots must be 
lifted and again buried. Heaps 
should be avoided in the case of 
garden varieties. 

Diseases and Insects. — The 
Carrot is a prey to many enemies. 
Perhaps the worst to be feared is 
the rust, and this occurs generally 
from the roots being grown in wet 
soil, or having suffered from dryness 
in summer. Too much fresh manure 
will also provoke it. There is no 
effective remedy for it, but salt and 
quicklime applied to the ground 
before sowing is an excellent pre- 
ventive as well as a fertiliser. At 
spring-time, in hot-beds or borders, 
the young plants of the first sowings 
are sometimes entirely destroyed by 
a small spider. Gardeners watching 
young Carrots are surprised the next 
day to see that every plant has 
disappeared. Soot spread over the 
drills, or the entire bed, will effec- 
tually prevent such a disaster. Snails 
and slugs are very fond of young 
Carrots, one snail or slug being able 



to destroy a small bed in a single 
night. Quicklime spread over the 
young plants (which it does not 
injure), and around the beds, will 
secure the crops, for one ap- 
plication effectually destroys these 
marauders. — D. G. 

The Carrot-louse attacks the 
young plants almost as soon as they 
appear, often doing much damage, 
like the Turnip-fly, if growth be re- 
tarded at the beginning. Then the 
Carrot-grub is even more destructive, 
boring into the roots, and often ruin- 
ing a crop. Wireworm, millepeds, 
and several other enemies sometimes 
do much mischief 

Early Carrots are largely supplied 
for the London market from France : 
they are tender and delicious, and 
often far better than those obtained 
from the London market-gardens. 
Seed of early varieties is sown from 
February to March, after which the 
main crop is put in, and the plants 
are not thinned out quite so much 
as other root-crops. The Early Horn 
is the kind used for early sowings ; 
and, when in good condition, they 
sell well in the market. In our 
market-gardens the Long Surrey 
and Long Orange are the chief kinds 
grown for main crops, and roots of 
these are furnished by hundreds of 
tons all through the winter months. 
Some market growers force the Early 
Horn on hot-beds and in frames, in 
order to have them ready for use 
in March or April, and these realise 
good returns. Some also sow beds 
in a warm position in August and 
September for winter use. If the 
weather is mild, fine little roots are 
obtained, and they sell readily at 
good prices. 



Uses. — The roots are well known and largely used, both as a 
table vegetable and as forming excellent food for cattle. The seed 
is employed in the manufacture of some kinds of liqueurs, and the 
juice of the Red varieties is used for colouring butter. 



CARROT 



^93 




Parisian Forcing Carrot. 



Parisian Forcing Carrot. — The earliest and the shortest of 
all Carrots. It is a special strain selected from the French Forcing 
Carrot with a view to its cultivation in rotted manure-mould under 
glass, which is the only 
way to cultivate it ; is 
often broader than long, 
is smooth, very clean, with 
a fine neck. The leaves 
are light and thin, the skin 
smooth, and the colour 
rather lighter than that 
of the French Forcing 
Carrot. 

French Horn, or 
Earliest Short Horn, 
Carrot. — Root almost 
globe, or slightly top-shaped, of a half-transparent orange-red 
colour, paler towards the point ; neck very fine and very 
short ; leaves very few. This variety, which is generally pulled 
when it has only four or five leaves, is used in open-air 
culture for very early or very late sowings, but is especially 
suitable for forcing under a frame, both on account of its 
earliness and the shortness of its root. 

The forcing of the Carrot 
demands no particular care, 
except that of pressing the soil 
down well after sowing the seed, 
and giving the plants as much 
air as possible while they are 
growing. 

Early Scarlet Dutch Horn 
Carrot. — Root nearly twice as 
long as broad, thicker at the 
neck than at the tip, which is 
generally blunt; neck fine; leaves 
very few, yet not so few as those 
of the preceding kind. , This is 
an excellent Carrot for open-air 
culture, and, in certain cases, 
may be found suitable for forcing. 
Both it and the preceding kind 
are most usually pulled for table 
use while they are young, and 
before they have attained their 
full size — a practice which might well be carried out with regard 
to all Carrots for the table. 




Dutch Horn Carrot. 



194 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Blunt-rooted Guerande Carrot. 



Blunt-rooted Guerande, or Ox-heart, Carrot. — A very distinct 
variety, remarkable for great size and quickness of growth. It 
might be described as an enormous Dutch Horn Carrot, for often 

its length does not much 
exceed its thickness, which 
measures sometimes in. 
in diameter. The flesh is 
very tender and delicate, 
and a beautiful orange-red, 
paler at the centre ; not, 
like the Nantes Carrot, a 
coreless variety. The 
foliage is light and rather 
scant. It is an excellent 
kitchen Carrot, but requires 
a light, substantial, well- 
dunged soil and moisture. 
Well grown, it is one of the 
best Carrots for the table. 
English Horn, or Early Half-long Scarlet, Carrot.— Root 
spindle-shaped, two and a half or three times as long as broad ; 
neck often tinged with green or brown, level with the surface of 
the soil, and slightly hollowed out around the base of the leaf- 
stalks ; leaves somewhat stouter than those of the preceding kind. 
A good, productive, and pretty early variety, grown on a large 
scale in many localities for market supply. 

James's Intermediate Carrot. — This variety is evidently an 
improved form of the Half-long Scarlet Carrot, but as it has now 
been a good while in 
very general cultivation, 
it has undergone a con- 
siderable amount of 
modification, in conse- 
quence of which it ex- 
hibits at the present day 
numerous diversities of 
character in different 
districts. In a general 
way it may be described 
as a handsome Half-long 
Carrot, with a long, 
pointed, well - coloured 
root, vigorous and rapid 
in growth, and having a stoutish neck, as might be expected 
from a variety which is as much grown in fields as in gardens. 
It is very productive, and much in request for field culture. 




English Horn, or Half-long Scarlet, Carrot. 



CARROT 



195 




There is a green-necked sub-variety of it, but the root of the 
true James's Intermediate is entirely red. It is the most ex- 
tensively cultivated Half-long Carrot 
in England, both in fields and 
gardens, but in many cases some 
of the Continental kinds might be 
advantageously grown instead of it. 

Half-long Blunt Scarlet Carrot. 
—This may be considered as a variety 
of the Pointed kind. The root is 
not so slender, and ends in a blunt 
cone, but there is no apparent differ- 
ence in the leaves or in any other 
respect. The Blunt-rooted variety is 
to be preferred for kitchen-garden 
culture. It may be regarded as the 
form from which have been derived 
in succession the Early Scarlet Horn 
and the French Forcing (or French 
Horn) Carrot, both of which, like the 
present variety, are characterised by 
the blunt, rounded end of the root, 
the fineness of the neck, and the 
paucity of leaves. There seems to 

be a sort of reciprocal dependence and an intimate correlation 
between the blunt form of the end of the root and the fineness 
of the neck in the Carrot tribe. Those varieties which have few 
leaves and a very short and very fine neck have almost invariably 
a blunt-ended root, and vice versa. Great earliness also is generally 

found to accompany these 
physical characteristics. 

Early Nantes Carrot. 
— Root almost perfectly 
cylindrical, not wide at 
the neck, and with a 
blunt, round point ; skin 
very smooth ; neck fine, 
hollowed out around the 
base of the leaf-stalks ; 
leaves not very large ; 
flesh entirely red, very 
sweet and mild, and 
almost devoid of the broad 
yellow heart or core which 
is seen in most of the other kinds of Red Carrots. Although this 
variety only recently began to be distributed, it has already 



James's Intermediate Carrot. 




Half-long Blunt Scariet Carrot. 



196 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Early Half-long Scarlet Nantes Carrot. 



become one of the most generally cultivated of all the kitchen- 
garden varieties of Carrots, and indeed, by a remarkable combination 

of good qualities, it justifies 
the preference which is given 
to it. It excels all the other 
kinds of Half-long Carrots in 
earliness, without being inferior 
to them in productiveness. Its 
roots, which are very clean- 
skinned and even in shape, are 
easily pulled, and keep well ; 
and, lastly, its somewhat deeper 
colour and freedom from heart 
or core cause it to be preferred 
to all the other kinds for table 
use. For all these reasons the 
Early Nantes Carrot deserves 
to be very generally grown ; 
but it requires a certain amount 
of care, for, like all improved and early varieties, it suffers more 
than the ordinary coarser kinds from want of nourishment and 
watering. It only attains its full quality in a mellow, deep soil 
which has been previously well enriched with vegetable mould, 
compost, or manure, and which is sufficiently substantial and 
kept moist by frequent waterings. The roots are more regular 
in shape and smoother in skin in proportion 
as the soil is soft and free from stones and 
gravel. Any attention given to the cultivation 
of this Carrot will be amply repaid by a more 
abundant crop, and especially by the finer 
appearance and improved quality of the roots. 

In the neighbourhood of Nantes another 
Half-long variety of Carrot is grown, which has 
a very blunt-pointed root, sometimes broader 
at the end than at the neck, like the Jersey 
Navet Turnip. This variety is larger than the 
Nantes Carrot which we have just described, 
and also differs from it in having a very large 
yellow heart or core. 

Early Carentan Carrot. — A very distinct, 
slender, almost cylindrical variety, with a very 
fine neck, and very small and few leaves ; skin 

glossy, smooth ; flesh red, without any heart Early Carentan Carrot 

or core. This variety can be sown pretty thick, natural size), 

and is consequently very well adapted for frame culture. It does 
best when grown in very rich soil or compost. Being a fancy 




CARROT 



197 



kind, it is not suitable for cultivation on a large scale, but it is 
one of the varieties known for perfection of shape and fineness 
of quality. 

Luc Half-long Carrot. — Root rather broad at the neck and 
a little longer than that of the preceding kinds ; the lower end is 
usually more blunt than pointed, although the whole root narrows 
gradually from the neck to the lower extremity. This is an early 
and productive variety, and is suitable for spring culture in the 
open ground. It is not entirely free from heart or core, although 
the differences between the central and the exterior layers of the 




Luc Half-long Carrot* Chantenay Half-long Carrot, 



flesh are not so clearly defined in it as they are in many other 
varieties. 

Chantenay Half-long Carrot— Although belonging distinctly 
to the class of the Half-long Stump-rooted Carrots, this variety 
differs from all the others by its large volume and by being 
completely rounded at the end; in fact, it is a Guerande Carrot 
of considerably longer size. It resembles the Luc Carrot, but is 
larger, thicker, more rounded, and a darker red. As with the 
Guerande Carrot, the inner part of the root is a little lighter 
than the outer. It is delicate in flavour, juicy, and sweet. 

Half-long Danvers Orange Carrot. — It is difficult to give a 
precise description of this variety of Half-long Carrot, which comes 
to us from the United States of North America. For several years 



198 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



we have been comparing this Carrot with the European sorts, 
and we have seen it varying considerably in its characteristics. 
We refer to trials made with seeds imported from America every 
season. At first it was a Half-long Pointed Carrot, of medium 
thickness, more pale orange than red, much like that of the Pale 
Red Flanders Carrot. It is still a 
slender half-long root, but well coloured, 
and with a blunt end very like our 
Luc Carrot. The leaves are rather 
short, finely cut, and rather bronzy. 

St. Valery Carrot. — A large hand- 
some variety, the connecting-link be- 
tween Half-long and Long varieties of 
Red Carrot. The root, which is very 





Half-long Dan vers Carrot. 



St. Valery Carrot (i natural size). 



Straight, very smooth, and bright red, is very broad at the neck, 
where it is frequently 2 to 3 in. in diameter, so that the entire 
length, which may be 10 to 12 in., is only about four times the 
diameter, which would almost bring it into the category of the 
Half-long varieties. It is suitable for field culture, but does best 
in light, rich, well-dug soil. The leaves are remarkably slight 
for the size of the root. This fine variety was for a long time 
grown only in its native locality, but since it became better known 
it has grown in favour ; for, with a handsome appearance and good 
quality, it is a good kitchen-garden as well as a good field Carrot, 
combining great productiveness with a fine regular shape and 
thick, sweet, tender flesh. 



CARROT 



199 



Long Surrey, or Long- Red, Carrot. — Root long, narrowing 
gradually to the lower extremity, five or six times as long as broad, 
not unusually i ft to 14 in. in length ; neck broad, flat, or slightly 
hollowed out around the base of the leaf-stalks ; leaves stout and 
numerous. This variety, which often attains a considerable weight, 
is very much used, both for field and market-garden culture. It 
requires a rather deep soil, but in return yields a very remunerative 
crop. By protecting the plants with a covering of straw or leaves, 




Long Red Carrot. Coreless Long Red Carrot (i natural size). 

they may be left in the ground for a long time in winter, and taken 
up as they are wanted for table use. 

Coreless Long Red Carrot. — This Carrot rather resembles 
the Early Nantes variety, but is very strikingly longer, and 
consequently more productive. It is almost cylindrical in shape, 
blunt-rooted, very fine in colour, very melting, sweet, and fine in 
flavour. This is especially an early small-leaved kitchen-garden 
variety. 

Red Long Smooth Meaux Carrot. — A fine strain of kitchen- 
garden Carrot ; it is cylindrical in shape, smooth, thicker than the 
Coreless Carrot, and not ring-marked. A very good variety for 
market-gardeners. It requires a deep, mellow, moist, and rich soil. 
In having a core, it differs also from the preceding variety, which 
it resembles in other ways. Like most of the highly improved 



200 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



stump-rooted varieties, the Meaux Carrot has a very light and 
scant foliage. 

Altringham Carrot. — This variety, which is of English origin, 
has been for a long time known and valued in France. It is a very 
long, slender kind, with the flesh entirely red (like that of the 
Coreless varieties) and of excellent quality. The neck, instead of 
being flattened, or even hollowed, as in many other kinds, is raised 
in the form of an obtuse cone. The 
root is usually of a bronzy or violet 
colour on the over-ground portion, which 
is from i to 2 in. in length. The length 
of the whole root is often 20 in. or more, 





Red Long Smooth Meaux Carrot. 



Altringham Carrot (i aatural size). 



and its diameter is relatively small, the length being equal to eight 
or ten times the diameter. Its surface exhibits a series of alternate 
ridges and depressions, having the appearance of being tightly 
bound around with a thin cord. This Carrot requires a rich and 
deeply dug soil, and, from its peculiar shape, it is liable to be 
broken when pulled. For these two reasons it is not so generally 
cultivated as it deserves to be on account of its good quality and 
great productiveness. 

Of late years the English growers have considerably altered the 
characteristics of their Altringham Carrot, and the old form is now 



CARROT 



20I 



difficult to find in the trade. The new form is much thicker, 
shorter, and smoother. This is an improvement, as it makes the 
lifting of the roots much easier. 

Long Blood-red Carrot. — Root long, thin, shapely, dark red. 
The top scarcely seen above the ground. The flesh is tender and 
dark orange-red. The leaves are light, small, and the stalks are 
usually tinged with purple. The Blood-red Carrot is a half-late 

variety, specially suited 
for autumn use. Given 
care, it keeps in con- 
dition through the 
winter. This variety 
is remarkable for the 





Long Blood- red Carrot. 



Flanders, or Sandwich, Carrot 
natural size). 



intensity of its colour, which forms one ot its principal merits. 
The skin itself becomes almost purple with exposure to light for 
any length of time. 

Flanders, or Sandwich, Carrot. — A kind of Half-long Red 
Carrot, much used in field culture on account of its great pro- 
ductiveness. Leaves abundant ; neck flat and broad ; root almost 
entirely sunk in the soil, rather bright orange-red, and regularly 
narrowed from neck to point. It is only about three times as long 
as broad, the entire length being about 8 in., with a diameter of 
between 2 and 2^ in. at the neck. The chief merit of this variety 



202 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



is that it is large, productive, early to form, and keeps well. 
Formerly quantities of it were sent to the Paris market from 
Flanders in waggons at the close of winter, when the Scarlet Horn 
and the Long Red Carrots were beginning to grow scarce. It is 
now less frequently seen there since the Parisian cultivators 
discovered that by successional sowings fresh Carrots can be raised 
at all seasons. 

Orange Belgian, or Long Orange Green-top, Carrot.— This 
very hardy and productive kind is more generally grown in the 




Orange Belgian, or Long Orange Green- Long Lemon Carrot, 

top, Carrot (A natural size). 

fields than in the kitchen-garden. The root is at least six times as 
long as broad, pale orange on the underground portion, and quite 
green above-ground, or for about one-fourth of its entire length ; 
hence it is indifferently termed the Green-top Red, or Green-top 
Yellow, Carrot. It keeps well, and is considered to be very 
nutritious. 

Long Lemon Carrot. — Root rather slender, four or five times 
as long as broad, almost entirely sunk in the ground, and bright 
yellow, except at the neck, where it is slightly tinged with green. 



CARROT 



203 



It is extensively grown in the fields in the north-west of France, but 
is not without merit as a kitchen-garden plant, especially when 
young, as when it has advanced in growth it sometimes becomes 
hard and almost woody at the heart. The flesh is yellow. When 
it is desired to be used in winter without becoming hard, it should 
be sown rather late — about the end of May or the first days in 
June. This is one of the oldest French varieties of Carrot. We 
find it described in old horticultural works before there was any 
mention made in them of the Red or Orange varieties. In the 
present day these are most generally preferred ; and the place 
which the Lemon Carrot 
formerly occupied in 
cultivation for market 
supply is now filled by 
the Common Long Red 
Carrot, which, in its turn, 
is being largely super- 
seded by the St. Valery 
Long Red variety. 

Short Lemon Carrot. 
— Root scarcely twice or 
thrice as long as broad, 
conical in shape, and 
sunk in the ground; neck 
flat and wide ; rather 
pale yellow throughout. 

Yellow Interme- 
diate, or Long Yellow 
Stump-rooted, Carrot. 
— The root is almost 
cylindrical, and very 
blunt at the end ; the 
flesh and skin a true 
yellow. It is a good 
Carrot grown on a large 
scale for cattle-feedine, 




Long Yellow Stamp-rooted Carrot. 



and is also an excellent kitchen-garden 
Carrot, despite its light colour. It is very productive, and although 
very sweet, it keeps well during the winter. 

Improved Wild Carrots. — About the year 1830 M. Vilmorin, 
sen., commenced several cultural experiments with the view of 
obtaining from the Wild Carrot enlarged and edible roots similar to 
those of the cultivated varieties. In the course of a few years, his 
sowings yielded him a certain proportion of plants with fleshy roots 
of various colours. Some of these forms remained constant for 
several years, reproducing themselves from seed with great 
regularity. The most remarkable of them were the Improved 



204 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



White Wild Carrot, which was rather like the Breteuil White Carrot, 
and had a fine flavour and odour, but was deficient in sweetness ; 
and the Improved Red Verrieres Wild Carrot, which was not 
productive, but was very regular in shape, with a very fine neck 
and remarkably slight leaves. These varieties, however, after 
having been grown for some time as a scientific curiosity, did not 
come into general cultivation, and were eventually discarded. 

Amongst the varieties which do not come under any of the 
strains which have just been described, we may mention the 
following : — Bardowick Carrot. — A fine variety of Long Red 
Carrot, almost free from core, and somewhat resembling the 
Altringham Carrot. The Dutch variety named De Duzuick is a 
rather shorter kind than the Half-long Red varieties, yet bears no 
analogy to the Early Scarlet Horn. It is a pretty good kind for 
field culture, but the Blunt-pointed Half-long varieties are much 
better. The Long Orange Carrot is a variety grown in the 
United States of America, of a lighter colour, greater length, and 
with a broader neck than the Common Long Red Carrot. 

The English varieties Matchless Scarlet and Scarlet Perfection 
come very near the St. Valery Carrot. They are, however, a little 
thinner and more elongated. 

There are several varieties of large white Carrots which we need 
not describe, as they are grown exclusively for cattle-feeding. 

CAULIFLOWER 

Brassica oleracea Botrytis^ D.C. 

French, Chou-fleur. German, Blumenkohl, Carviol. Flemish and Dtitch^ Bloemkool. 
Italian, Cavolfiore. Spanish, Coliflor. Portuguese, Couve-flor. 

In the different varieties of Cabbage known as Cauliflowers, it 
is the floral organs, or, more properly speaking, the flower-stems, 
which have been artificially modified in size and appearance in the 
course of cultivation. The flowers themselves have, for the most 
part, been rendered abortive, and the branchlets along which they 
grow, gaining in thickness what they lose in length, form a sort of 
regular corymb with a white fleece-like surface, which is rarely 
broken by a few small leaves growing through it. These floral 
branchlets, having become large, white, thick, and very tender, 
produce nothing but a homogeneous mass, so to say, and the 
rudiments of the flowers are only represented by the minute and 
almost imperceptible prominences which are found on the upper 
surface of what is termed the " head " of the Cauliflower. 

Culture. — It may be said that the cultivation of the Cauli- 
flower is one of the most simple processes, and, at the same time, 
one of the most difficult to carry out well. In fact, with the 



CAULIFLOWER 



205 



exception of the spring Cauliflowers, which are sown in autumn and 
wintered under frames, it is grown as an annual, which is sown in 
the spring in the open ground, and yields a crop in the course of 
the same year, without requiring any attention whatever except 
frequent waterings. But, on the other hand, it is certain that, in 
order to obtain a fine crop, the cultivation of the Cauliflower 
requires a certain amount of skill and tact which no mere cultural 
directions can supply. The " head " will not be regularly formed 
unless the growth of the plant proceeds rapidly and without any 
check from beginning to end, and the greatest watchfulness and 
most assiduous care sometimes fail to ensure this. 

At Paris there are three principal seasons or successional periods 
for growing Cauliflowers. In the first, the seed is sown in autumn, 
and the crop comes in in spring. In the second, the seed is sown 
late in autumn or in winter, the crop, in this case, not coming in 
until the following summer. In the third, the seed is sown in 
spring, and the crop is gathered in the autumn of the same year. 
Those which are sown in autumn, for the spring crop, are sown 
either in the open ground, or (most usually) on a hot-bed, in 
September. In the course of the autumn, the seedlings are pricked 
out under a cold frame, or in the open ground in a border with a 
warm aspect, where they are protected with cloches or bell-glasses. 
In January or February they are transplanted to a hot-bed, six 
-plants to each light. The heads obtained in this way are the first 
that appear in the market in May. Almost at the same time that 
the plants are removed to the hot-bed, other plants are placed in 
cold frames ; the crop from these is naturally later, and comes in 
in succession to that which was obtained from the hot-bed. 

The Cauliflowers of the second season are sown in the beginning 
of January, in a hot-bed ; the plants are pricked out into another 
hot-bed, and are not transferred to the open ground until they are 
pretty strong, about the end of March or the beginning of April, at 
which time they have no further need of artificial heat ; the crop 
from these comes in about the end of June or the beginning of 
July. Successional sowings are made in February and March, and 
the seedlings, reared under frames or bell-glasses, are planted out 
a little later than those which were sown in hot-beds. This second 
season, in which the plants are pushed forward by special treatment 
and artificial heat, produces by far the largest quantities of Cauli- 
flowers that are sent to the Central Market at Paris. 

Lastly, in the third season, the entire growth of the plant is 
effected, without the help of artificial heat, in the open ground. 
The seed is sown in May or June in a sheltered or shaded border, 
and the seedlings are planted out permanently in July, without 
having been previously pricked out. This method, which at first 
sight appears the simplest of all, does not always produce the best 



206 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



results, owing to the difficulty of protecting the plants from 
excessive heat and drought in the early stages of their growth, 
and, later on, from early frosts, which often mar the formation of 
the heads. 



In England this is a summer 
and autumn vegetable, and at that 
season fills the position occupied by 
the Broccoli in winter and spring. 
The most valuable crops are the 
early ones in spring and the late 
in autumn. In summer they are 
frequently unsatisfactory during hot 
weather, and when Peas and French 
Beans are plentiful, they are not so 
much in demand. 

The first sowing is in a general 
way made about August 25th, the 
time being varied according to 
latitude, as experience may direct. 
In some places the first week in 
September may be early enough. 
Select an open situation where the 
land is in good condition from a 
previous manuring. If the weather 
is hot and the land very dry, stir 
the surface for a foot or so in depth 
with the fork, and give water 
enough to moisten it. Draw drills 
9 in. apart, and sow the seeds 
(which should have been obtained 
from a good source) thinly. Cover 
with nets to keep off birds ; and if 
the weather continue hot, shade a 
little by laying a few branches with 
the leaves attached over the net. 
As soon as the plants are up and are 
large enough to move safely (which 
will be early in November), prepare 
one or more frames by placing a 
layer of coal-ashes in the bottom, 
and on the ashes, which should be 
beaten down firmly with the back 
of the spade, place 5 in. of light 
rich soil. Into the bed so formed 
dibble the plants 3 in. apart, and 
give water to settle the soil round 
them. During the winter the frames 
should be fully ventilated when the 
weather is mild, keeping out cold 



rains. In times of severe frost, 
scatter a little dry litter or fern 
over the lights. Sometimes Cauli- 
flower-plants pass through the winter 
safely pricked out at the foot of a 
south wall, or on the south side 
of a thick hedge, and sheltered in 
severe weather by placing evergreen 
branches among them. Another 
way of raising early plants, and an 
excellent one, is to sow in heat 
about January ist, and treat the 
plants as we should treat tender 
annuals. The seeds are sown . in 
pans covered lightly with sandy soil, 
and placed on a shelf in a house 
where the temperature is about 60° 
at night. When the young plants 
appear, they will occupy a position 
in the full light near the glass, and 
when large enough will be pricked 
off into 60-sized pots, one plant in 
each pot. The soil and the pots will 
be taken into the house to warm a 
little before the potting takes place. 
The plants will be grown on in the 
same temperature till March, when 
they will be well established ; they 
should then be hardened off, and 
early in April planted out. This 
plan will not give more trouble than 
is taken every spring with the same 
number of bedding plants, and they 
do not bolt, as sometimes happens 
with the plants raised in August. 
Still another way of raising the first 
early Cauliflower-plants may be 
described as intermediate between 
the cool treatment first mentioned 
and the warm plan last described. 
About the middle of October sow the 
seeds in boxes and place in a frame 
which rests on, say, an exhausted 
Melon or Cucumber bed, and which 
still retains a little of the summer's 



CAULIFLOWER 



207 



warmth. Keep close till the seeds 
germinate, then give air freely, and 
when the plants are large enough, 
pot off singly in small pots. Winter 
on a shelf in the lightest part of the 
greenhouse. 

Planting under Hand-lights. 
— These are old-fashioned but excel- 
lent contrivances. About March, 
acting as all must according to the 
character of the weather, arrange 
the lights for the early crop in a 
warm, sunny, sheltered position, 
where the soil is deep and rich, 3 ft. 
apart each way, and plant four 
plants under each light. As the 
season advances, ventilation will be 
required, either by placing the lights 
on bricks, or, if the lights have 
movable tops, by altering their 
position. A few early Cauliflowers 
may generally be obtained by 
planting in front of a south wall, 
almost close to it, to take advantage 
of the sun's warmth, which accumu- 
lates there both on the soil and in 
the air. Such plants may be further 
assisted by a ridge of soil in front, 
and when the weather gets warm, 
later in the season, this ridge of soil 
will help to confine the soakings of 
liquid manure which good culti- 
vators will obtain by hook or by 
crook for their early Cauliflowers. 

SuccESSiONAL SOWINGS should be 
made in March in heat. A few 
seeds may be sown among any other 
young crops, such as Early Horn 
Carrots, as the Cauliflowers will be 
transplanted before any harm can be 
done. If it is not convenient to do 
this, sow the seed in a box, and place 
it where there is some artificial 
warmth, harden off, and plant out 
as seems necessary. The Autumn 
Giant should be sown in March 
for late summer and autumn use. 
This is a very valuable Cauliflower 
for hot seasons. It is very difficult 
with any other sort to secure close. 



firm hearts in August and Septem- 
ber, but the cross of the Broccoli, 
that is so apparent, and which gives 
this kind its hardiness, almost makes 
it heat and drought proof — hence 
its great value, not only in the late 
autumn, but also through the season 
from August up till Christmas. Sow 
the Walcheren in April, and again 
in May and June for autumn. This, 
with the Autumn Giant, will furnish 
a supply till the winter Broccoli 
turn in. In some situations Cauli- 
flowers are very uncertain ; they 
must have plenty of rich manure. 
In such, to get them good, I have 
opened a trench 4 ft. wide all across 
a quarter, worked in plenty of 
manure, then drawn three drills at 
equal distances apart in the trench, 
and sown seeds of the Walcheren 
thinly. If it is necessary to sow in 
trenches, this is a better plan than 
having single rows, as the better soil 
and manure being in bulk will retain 
the moisture longer, and the plants 
will do better. When the seedlings 
are strong enough to transplant, 
single them out, leaving the strongest, 
and for this crop they may with 
advantage be much thicker than 
we should plant them generally. 
Small, white, close hearts are in the 
hot weather more useful than large 
ones, which nearly always develop a 
tendency to open. Some of the 
plants thinned out may be useful if 
planted under a north wall in rather 
deep drills. This is acting on the 
principle of never throwing a chance 
away. The crop in the trench had 
better be started about the first or 
second week in June, and if well 
attended to, and grown without a 
severe check, they will be sure to 
produce nice useful hearts at a very 
small expense. And it is worth 
something to feel that, under all 
circumstances, we may rely upon any 
particular crop turning out right. 



2o8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Watering and Mulching. — 
Mulching with manure in hot sum- 
mers is to this crop invaluable, and, 
except in extreme cases, will obviate 
the necessity for much watering, 
though, of course, a good soaking of 
liquid manure in a dry season will 
never come amiss. The three 
sowings in the open air in April, 
May, and June, with the previous 
sowings under glass, will, if planted 
out in the usual order when the plants 
are large enough, furnish a supply 
from June till Christmas, if need be ; 
indeed, I have had both the Wal- 
cheren and the Autumn Giant till 
after Christmas in good condition in 
a cold pit. The distances between 
the rows, as well as the distance 
between the plants in the rows, will 
vary according to the situations and 
seasons, but 2 ft. between the rows, 
and 18 in. separating the plants 
from each other in the rows, may be 
taken as a good average distance. — 
E. H. 

Culture in Market Gardens. 
— In London, it is hardly possible 
to overstock the market with this 
vegetable. It has the advantage 
over Broccoli in this particular, viz. 
that pickle merchants are always 
ready to buy up any quantity of 
Cauliflowers in summer, whilst for 
this purpose scarcely any Broccoli is 
used. In May, before Peas and 
Beans can be had at reasonable 
prices, good Cauliflowers realise 
good profits to the grower. Early 
Cauliflowers are usually grown under 
hand-lights, or are protected by 
old baskets or small boughs of ever- 
green trees. To provide plants for 
this purpose, a sowing is made on a 
well-sheltered piece of ground or a 
warm open quarter, in beds, in the 
second or third week of September. 
The young plants are allowed to 
remain in the seed-bed until the end 
of October, or even the middle of 



November. Should frosty weather 
set in whilst the plants are in the 
seed-beds, they are protected by 
mats supported on short stakes 18 
in. above the ground. Sometimes 
a stout plank is set on edge along the 
centres of the beds, and two rows of 
short stakes are put one on either 
side to support it, and over this are 
placed mats. When the weather 
becomes too severe for them to be 
thus protected, and when they re- 
quire to be transplanted, they are 
taken up and planted in frames or 
under hand-lights. The frames are 
placed in a sheltered spot sloping 
to the south, and are filled to within 
8 or 9 in. of the top with ordinary 
soil firmly trampled down with the 
feet ; over this better soil is sifted to 
a thickness of 3 or 4 in., and in this 
the Cauliflowers are planted 3 in. 
or so apart. In this position they 
remain until the February following 
or early part of March without any 
further care beyond that of closing 
the sashes to exclude frosts, cold 
winds, hail, or rain, and tilting them 
up at front and back during favour- 
able weather, and on very fine days 
drawing them off entirely. Cold 
rains are very injurious to Cauli- 
flowers, but a warm shower in 
February benefits them. Sometimes 
the plants grow so strongly that 
their leaves touch or press against 
the sashes ; when that happens, the 
sashes are tilted up at front and back, 
night and day, with pieces of wood 
or brick, otherwise frost would in- 
jure such leaves as touch the glass. 
Dry sand, kept in a shed for the 
purpose, is scattered amongst the 
plants two or three times while they 
are in frames, in order to guard 
against damp, and such plants as 
show signs of " buttoning " are im- 
mediately pulled out to give the 
others more room. Where room is 
Hmited and the weather appears 



CAULIFLOWER 



209 



mild, young Cauliflowers are often 
wintered in the beds where they are 
sown, or they are pricked off into 
raised beds of light soil not likely 
to be soaked with wet in winter. 
Here they are sometimes left unpro- 
tected, and at other times they 
are covered with hoops and mats. 
Continued dampness of soil and 
atmosphere is their worst enemy, as 
it induces growth so soft that it can- 
not withstand frost so well as that 
produced on high and dry ground. 
Where hand-lights are employed, an 
open field or quarter is lined off into 
squares measuring about 6 ft. each 
way. At every intersection nine 
Cauliflowers are planted in a suffi- 
ciently small space to be conveniently 
covered with cloches or hand-lights, 
which are immediately placed over 
them, and a little earth is drawn 
around the base of the lights so as 
to shut up all apertures. The empty 
spaces between the rows of hand- 
lights are planted with Coleworts. 
In spring these Coleworts are either 
thinned out or entirely removed for 
market, and a crop of Cos Lettuces 
is planted in their place. As soon 
as the CauHflowers have become 
established they are allowed abun- 
dance of air, and otherwise treated 
the same as those grown in frames. 
When the plants become too thick, 
they are all lifted from under the 
hand-lights and planted in open 
quarters or under other hand-lights. 

Market-gardeners generally begin 
to cut from Cauliflower-plants raised 
in this way some time in the month 
of May, according to the mildness 
or otherwise of the season. The 
best growers seldom make many 
sowings of Cauliflowers ; one or 
two in autumn and one or two 
in spring being the usual number. 
The first autumn sowing, as before 
stated, is made out-of-doors some 
time between the last week in 



August and the third week in Sep- 
tember; and the second one, in 
frames, in the last week of Septem- 
ber or first week in October. From 
these two sowings Cauliflowers are 
obtained from the last week in April 
to the end of June. The first 
spring sowing, if the autumn one is 
a failure, is made in a frame in the 
last week of February or first week 
of March, or it may be made in 
the open border any time during 
the first fortnight of March ; from 
this sowing a crop is obtained from 
the middle of June till August or 
September. The third sowing is 
commonly made in beds, in some 
open quarter, between the middle of 
April and the first week in May, in 
order to furnish an autumn supply. 
Different market-gardeners have 
different times for sowing Cauli- 
flowers, but it is well understood 
that strong, grossly grown plants do 
not stand the winter so well as 
medium-sized ones, and they are also 
more liable to "button." Moderate- 
sized plants are decidedly the best 
for mild winters, but in the event of 
very severe winters occurring, strong 
plants are the best. Cauliflowers 
which have been wintered in frames 
or under hand-lights are often planted 
on ground cropped with Radishes 
before the latter crop is marketable, 
and by the time it is so and has been 
cleared off, the Cauliflowers will 
have gained good strength, when the 
ground will be intercropped with 
Lettuces. In other instances, fields 
are marked off into beds 5 ft. wide, 
with i-ft. alleys between them, and 
these beds are sown with Round- 
leaved Spinach. As soon as this is 
done, three rows of Cauliflowers are 
planted along the beds. The Cauli- 
flowers outgrow the Spinach, which, 
by continual picking for market, is 
kept in check until it is eventually 
exhausted, leaving the Cauliflowers 



14 



2IO 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



masters of the field. The autumn 
crops obtained from spring sowings 
are thinned out a Httle in the seed- 
beds, and, when large enough for 
handling, are planted where they 
are to remain permanently. Should 
the weather be dry at planting time, 
a pint of water, or a Httle more, is 
given to each plant, and the sodden 
soil is soon afterwards freshened up 
by the hoe, thus, in some measure, 
preventing evaporation. Late Cauli- 
flow^ers are nearly always inter- 
cropped with some other vegetable, 
such as Lettuces, French Beans, 
Celery, Seakale, etc. Some large 
growlers, however, depart from this 
rule, and save much labour; for, if 
intercropping be practised, people 
must be employed to keep down 
weeds by means of the hoe ; but 
when Cauhflowers alone occupy the 
ground, horse-hoes can be freely 



worked among the rows. The Early 
London is the variety used for the 
first crops by most market-gardeners, 
but some use the Walcheren for 
that purpose. The Walcheren is 
the kind almost entirely grown for 
use after June, because it suffers 
less from drought than any other 
sort, and is not liable to "button." 
Snow's Winter White, an excellent 
sort, is, as a rule, regarded as a 
Broccoli ; nevertheless, it has fine 
white, solid heads, and is largely 
grown to succeed the Walcheren, 
being hardier than that sort. Snowy's 
White, if sown together with the 
Walcheren in April or May, makes 
a fine succession to it, and comes in 
usefully till January. Early Cauli- 
flowers are always sent to market, 
but those produced in summer and 
autumn are disposed of to a large 
extent to pickle merchants. — S. 



Uses. — The head, boiled or pickled, is usually the only part 
which is eaten. The Cauliflower is one of the best liked of all 
vegetables. 

Early Dwarf Erfurt Cauliflower. — A very early, very distinct, 
and really valuable variety, but difificult to keep true to name. It 

is somewhat under middle height, 
and has a rather short stem. 
Leaves oblong, entire, rounded, 
very slightly undulated, and a 
peculiar light gray-green, which, 
with their shape and rather erect 
position, gives the plant some 
resemblance to the Sugar - loaf 
Cabbage. The head is very 
white, but does not keep firm for 
a long time. When exposed to 
the sun, it soon takes a purple 
tinge, unless protected from direct 
strong light. The leaves, which 
at first have an upright position 
and cover the head, later on, as 
the head increases in size, sometimes spread and recline even to 
touching the ground. 

Early Snowball Cauliflower.— This variety, a selection from 




Early Dwarf Erfurt Cauliflower. 



CAULIFLOWER 



211 




AUeaume Dwarf Cauliflower. 



the last, differs from it in its greater earliness. It is well suited for 
forcing ; and is, so far, the best Cauliflower we have for growing 
in frames. It is now largely 
grown for early crops in the 
south of France. 

AUeaume Dwarf Cauli- 
flower. — A dwarf and very 
early variety of the Half- 
early Paris Cauliflower. The 
stem is so short that the 
head appears to rest on 
the ground, like that of the 
Early Dwarf Erfurt Cauli- 
flower. From this variety, 
however, it differs entirely in 
the appearance of the leaves, 
which are broad, undulated 
at the margin, and generally 
twisted. The head forms 
very quickly, but soon grows out of shape, if it is not cut in time. 

The Early Picpus Cauliflower is a slightly taller strain, and more 
vigorous than the AUeaume Cauliflower. 

Earliest Paris Forcing Cauliflower. — A variety with a slender 
and rather long stem. Leaves narrow, nearly straight, almost flat 

at the ends and edges ; 
head of medium size, 
forming soon, but not 
continuing firm very long. 
This kind is especially 
suitable for sowing in 
summer; if sown in April 
or May, the head forms 
in August or September. 

Imperial Cauliflower. 
— This handsome variety 
is very much like the 
Dwarf Erfurt, but a 
darker green, and larger 
altogether. It is an 
early kind, with a fine 
white, broad, firm head, 
and remarkable for the 
. , ^ regularity of its growth 

Imperial Cauliflower. ^, j . • 

^ and productiveness. 

When grown true to name, it is certainly one of the best early 
varieties of Cauliflower. 




212 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Half-early, or Intermediate, Paris Cauliflower.— A plant of 
medium size, with large, deep, somewhat glaucous green leaves, 

surrounding the head 
well, and having the 
ends turned towards the 
ground, the edges being 
undulated and coarsely 
toothed. Stem rather 
short and stout ; head 
large, very white, and 
keeping firm for a long 
time. This variety was 
formerly more extensively 
grown than any other 
by the Parisian market- 
gardeners, but at the 
present day it is rivalled 
by the Short - stalked 
Lenormand and several 
other newer varieties of 
, „ . „ ., ^ the same earliness. 

Half-early Pans, or Nonpareil, Cauliflower. Half- early Le- 

maitre Cauliflower is a good strain of the Half-early Paris variety. 
The stalk is short, and the head is handsome, large, very compact 
and very white. It is much used for autumn 
the fields in the vicinity of Paris, at Chambourcy 

Lenormand's Short- 
stalked Cauliflower. — 
The appearance of this 
variety distinguishes it at 
once from all other kinds 
when it comes true to 
name. The stem, which 
is extremely short, stout, 
and thick-set, is furnished 
almost to the ground with 
short, broad, rounded 
leaves,not much undulated 
except at the edges, very 
firm and stiff, rather 
spreading than erect, and 
deep, almost glaucous 
green. The head is very 
large and firm, a splendid 
white, and keeps firm for a long time. The plant is early, hardy, 
and productive, and takes up comparatively little ground, so that 



cultivation 
etc. 



m 




Lenormand's Short-stalked Cauliflower 
(yV natural size). 



CAULIFLOWER 



213 



it is not surprising that its cultivation has been very much 
extended in the course of a few years. 

Large White French Cauliflower {Choufleur demi-dur de 
Saint- Brieuc). — A large, stout plant, with long, undulating, deep 
green leaves. Stem long ; head firm, compact, and keeping pretty 
well. This variety, which is very much grown in Brittany, whence 
the heads are sent to Paris, and even to England, is very hardy 
and highly suitable for culture in the open ground. 

Late Paris Cauliflower. — This is the latest of the varieties 
grown by the market-gardeners about Paris. It differs from the 
preceding variety chiefly in being somewhat later, and the head 
has the advantage of remaining hard and firm for a longer time. 




Large Algiers Cauliflower. 



It also differs in the appearance of its leaves, which are very 
numerous, long, very undulating, and intensely green. It is the 
least extensively grown of the three kinds which are most com- 
monly cultivated about Paris, the market-gardeners there only 
using it for summer sowings to bring in a crop in the latter end 
of autumn. 

Large Algiers Cauliflower. — A very good kind for the south 
of France and Algeria, of dwarf habit and vigorous growth, quite 
hardy and very early, with stiff entire leaves, only slightly con- 
voluted at the edges, and dark green, almost slate colour. It is 
mostly grown for use at the end of summer and during autumn, 
and is easily grown, not only in kitchen gardens, but also in the 
fields, provided it gets all the water it needs. The head is large, 
and its beautiful white head is well set off by the dark foliage. In 



214 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



foreign markets a very tall, late, and leafy variety is sometimes 
offered under the name of Algiers Cauliflower, but it is really the 
Autumn Giant Cauliflower, a very interesting variety', but entirely 
different from the true Algiers Cauliflower here described. 

Early London, or Early Dutch, Cauliflower.— A large and 
hardy variety, suitable for field culture. Stem long and rather 
slender ; leaves long, not very broad, gray-green, and undulated. 
This is one of the kinds of Cauliflower which have the midrib of the 
leaf bare at the base for the greater part of its length. The head 
is hard and firm, but not very large. It is a half-late variety, and, 



Late Asiatic Cauliflower. — A vigorous kind, with numerous 
large, undulated, rather dark green leaves, and a shorter stem than 
the preceding variety, like which it is hardy and rather late. It is 
suitable for growing in the open ground, and should not be sown 
later than May, to bring in a crop in the autumn. This is a large 
and very highly esteemed late variety. 

Stadtholder Cauliflower. — Very nearly allied to the Early 
Dutch Cauliflower, this variety exhibits almost the same charac- 
teristics of growth, and its difference is that it is a few days later. 
In this respect it is intermediate between the Early Dutch and the 
Walcheren Cauliflower. The stem is shorter than that of the other 
Dutch kinds, and the leaves are more undulated at the edges. 

Walcheren Cauliflower, or Walcheren Broccoli. — This is the 
latest of all Cauliflowers and one of the hardiest, so that it may be 
regarded as intermediate between the Cauliflowers, properly so- 
called, and the Broccolis, among which it is not unusual to find it 
classed. It has a long, stout stem, and numerous long, stiff, and 




Early London, or Early Dutch, Cauliflower 
(yV natural size). 



in its native country 
succeeds better than the 
French kinds. It is grown 
on a large scale about 
Leyden, whence great 
quantities of it are ex- 
ported to England to 
compete in the London 
markets with the Cauli- 
flowers sent from the 
French coasts, especially 
from Brittany. The name 
of Dwarf Dutch Cauli- 
flower given to it by the 
Germans is only by way 
of comparison with other 
Dutch varieties, for it is 
a tall kind compared with 
the French varieties. 



CAULIFLOWER 



215 



erect gray-green leaves. The head forms very slowly ; it is hand- 
some, large, very white, and of a fine close grain. The seed should 
be sown in April to ensure the head being well grown before the 
approach of frosty weather. When sown late, it often withstands 
the winter and heads early in spring. 

Incomparable Cauliflower. — Vigorous in growth, with tall, 
erect, broad, twisted leaves, of a gray-green colour, resembling those 
of the Autumn Giant Cauliflower, and medium stem. Head very 
large and fine in grain. A good variety for producing a late 
outdoor crop in the autumn. Sown in April and May, it is fit for 
use several days before the Autumn Giant Cauliflower, which it 



resembles very nearly in the vigour of its growth and the largeness 
of its leaves. 

Veitch's Autumn Giant Cauliflower. — A large and vigorous 

variety, with a long stem and large, undulating dark green leaves. 
Head very large, firm, very white, and well covered by the inner 
leaves. It is a late kind, coming in about the same time as the 
Walcheren Cauliflower, but it is not so hardy. In the north of 
France it can only be grown for a late autumn crop in the open 
ground. It should be sown in April or May. 

Giant Italian Self-protecting Cauliflower. — Before the head 
forms it is not easy to distinguish this variety from the preceding 




Veitch's Autumn Giant Cauliflower. 



2i6 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



one, like which it has long and broad leaves, and the leaf-stalks 
much tinged with purple on the part next the stem. The ends of 
the leaves, however, are somewhat narrower and more pointed. 
When the head is about to form the central leaves turn and fold 
themselves over it so as to cover it completely until it has attained 
nearly its full size, when it comes into view for the first time. 

Purple Cape Broccoli {Choufleur noir de Sidle). — In its habit 



This is not a very late variety. It is always grown in the open 
ground, and the crop begins to come in early in September. 

The Russian Cauliflower, grown in the north of France, is a 
handsome long-stemmed variety, with oblong grayish, light green 
leaves, narrower and more pointed than those of the Early Dutch 
Cauliflower. It is a late field sort. 

The varieties of Cauliflower grown in Germany under the names 
of CyprischeVy Asiatischer^ etc., come very close to the Dutch 
varieties. 



French., Chou Brocoli, Chou-fleur d'hiver. German, Broccoli, Brockoli, SpargelkohL 
Flemish, Brokelie. Danish, Broccoli, Asparges kaal. Italian, Cavol broccolo. 
Spanish, Broculi. 

The Broccoli, like the Cauliflower, is a cultivated variety of the 
Wild Cabbage, and is grown for the sake of the head, which is 
produced in the same way and has the same qualities. The 
growth of the Broccoli, however, is much more prolonged, and 
instead of producing the head the same year in which the plants 
are sown, it usually does not do so until early in the following. 




Purple Cape Broccoli (^-^ natural size). 



of growth this 
variety resembles 
the Algiers Cauli- 
flower. It has a 
long stem, very large 
dark green leaves, 
rather wavy, almost 
crimped, short, and 
broad for their 
length. It differs 
from all other kinds 
in the colour of 
the head, which is 
purple and coarser 
in grain than in 
any other variety, 
although very com- 
pact, firm, and large. 



BROCCOLI 

Bras ska oleracea Botrytis, D.C. 



I 



BROCCOLI 



217 



spring. The two plants also differ somewhat in appearance, the 
Broccoli usually having more numerous, broader, stiffer, and 
narrower leaves than the Cauliflower, and generally bare leaf- 
stalks ; the veinings of its leaves are also stouter and whiter. Its 
heads, although handsome, firm and compact, are seldom as large, 
in this climate, as those of good varieties of Cauliflower. The seed 
of both plants is identical in appearance. 

The cultivation of the Broccoli dates back to a more remote 
period than that of the Cauliflower, as the name, at least, would lead 
us to infer. In Italy, the name broccoli is applied to the tender 
shoots which, at the close of the winter, are emitted by various 
kinds of Cabbages and Turnips preparing to flower. These green 
and tender young shoots have, from time immemorial, been highly 
esteemed as vegetables by the Italians, who were careful to select 
and cultivate only those kinds which produced the most tender 
shoots in the greatest abundance. The Sprouting, or Asparagus, 
Broccoli represents the first form exhibited by the new vegetable 
when it ceased to be the earliest Cabbage, and was grown with an 
especial view to its shoots. After this, by continued selection and 
successive improvements, varieties were obtained which produced a 
compact white head, and some of these varieties were still further 
improved into kinds which are sufficiently early to commence and 
complete their entire growth in the course of the same year. These 
last-named kinds are now known by the name of Cauliflowers. 

Culture. — The seed is sown in a nursery-bed from the 
beginning of April to the end of May, according to the earliness of 
the variety ; the seedlings are usually pricked out in a bed, and in 
June or July are finally transplanted. Like all plants of the 
Cabbage family, they are benefited by frequent hoeings and 
waterings. At the beginning of winter a mulching of manure is 
applied, and the plants are earthed up to the lowest leaves, or they 
may be taken up altogether and laid in a sloping trench, with the 
heads turned to the north. The ground in which they are to pass 
the winter should be sweet and well drained, and the plants should, 
if possible, be protected in severe frosty weather. In March the 
heads begin to form, and may be cut until June, if successive 
sowings have been made. 



As a rule, in private gardens 
Broccoli is cut when about a third 
or half its full size : the aim of 
growers should be, not the produc- 
tion of gigantic heads, but a constant 
succession of firm, compact Broccoli 
of medium size. Some growers 
choose a few good kinds and make 
successional sowings, whilst others 



select a number of varieties that 
will naturally succeed each other, 
although they be all sown and planted 
out at the same time. 

This is doubtless the best plan 
when the ground intended to be 
occupied with Broccoli can be all 
spared and got ready at one time ; 
but it frequently happens, where the 



2l8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



demand for vegetables is great, that 
part crops must be planted as the 
ground becomes vacant. Many 
people plant Broccoli between rows 
of Potatoes, and where the ground 
is limited and the kind of Potatoes 
grown are dwarf and planted a good 
distance apart, it is doubtless a good 
system. Where this system is 
adopted the hardest pieces of land 
should be selected ; the firmer the 
land, the better the plants stand the 
severity of the winter. They also 
come into use more regularly in 
rotation in their several seasons, and 
form larger and closer hearts than if 
planted in less compact soil. Plenty 
of room to grow must be allowed 
them. Supposing two rows of early 
or second-early Potatoes are planted 
from 20 in. to 2 ft. apart, there 
should be two rows of Potatoes 
between every two rows of Broccoli, 
which will place the rows of Broccoli 
about 3 ft. 6 in. or 4 ft. apart ; and 
this distance is not too much, as it 
gives both crops plenty of room to 
develop themselves. The Potato 
haulm should be turned from the 
Broccoli to the unoccupied space 
between each two rows of Potatoes. 
It is now a common practice to 
plant Broccoli with a crowbar ; the 
holes are filled in with fine soil, 
and afterwards thoroughly soaked 
with water. 

Sowing axd Planting. — Though 
June is the month in which most 
plantations of Broccoli are made, 
yet it is frequently July before the 
work is done. Plants put out in 
August will make nice heads, but 
the sooner the planting is done after 
the middle of June the better. 
Though planting early ensures the 
finest plants and largest heads, the 
time of sowing or planting does not 
materially affect the plants as regards 
the time they come into use. The 
time for sowing Broccoli-seed varies 



from February till April, according 
to different localities ; as a rule, from 
the end of March to the middle of 
April is the best time if the weather 
be genial. The best manner of 
sowing is in shallow drills, 6 in. 
apart, and, if the seed be good, it 
should be sown thinly. The whole 
sowing may be made at the same 
time, and planted at the same time, 
for convenience' sake ; and by plant- 
ing many varieties a regular supply 
throughout winter and spring may 
be ensured when the winters are 
mild — for it is certain that no prac- 
tice as to time of sowing or planting 
will ensure the heads forming at a 
certain time, if during winter we 
have protracted periods of frost or 
cold, during which all growth is 
at a standstill. Plants from sowings 
made early in April will, under 
favourable circumstances, be large 
enough for pricking out by the 
middle of May : they should have 
a moderately rich, open border, 
where they can have the benefit of 
the sun to keep them strong and 
sturdy. They should be pricked 
out 7 or 8 in. apart from plant to 
plant, and by the beginning of June 
the ground should be prepared and 
the plants finally planted out — 
choosing a showery time, if possible. 
Many people never transplant their 
Broccoli previous to final planting ; 
but where time can be spared, it is 
much the best, as the plants get 
stronger and better able to resist the 
attacks of slugs, snails, etc., than 
small plants put out direct from 
the seed-bed. 

If practicable, the ground should 
be trenched two or three spades 
deep, or at least double-digged. 
When there is not time for doing 
either of these, then the ground 
must be dug over a spade deep 
only, taking care to break the soil 
up thoroughly, as deeply as a good 



BROCCOLI 



219 



spade will do it, and working in 
some well-decayed manure at the 
same time, the soil being broken up 
well in the trench, and the surface 
a little rough. Plant as soon as the 
digging is finished. If the planting 
be done in June or July, from 2^ to 
3 ft. must be allowed between the 
plants ; if deferred till August, they 
need not be allowed so much room. 
If the weather be dry, the seed-bed, 
or that from which the plants are 
taken, should be watered well the 
night before, to soften the soil. The 
holes to receive the plants should 
always be made sufficiently large to 
admit of their being easily put in 
without breaking their roots. " But- 
toned " and stunted plants are in 
many cases caused by bad planting. 
They are put in with broken and 
mutilated roots ; and those that have 
a tap-root often have it bent double 
in getting it into the hole, and, 
instead of the point being at the 
bottom of the hole, it will be stick- 
ing up above the surface. No one 
should wait a very long time for wet 
weather in which to plant Broccoli : 
it is better to get the planting done 
and water well once or twice, and 
the plants will then do till rain 
comes. When the plants are fairly 
established, and have grown a little, 
they must be earthed up with the 
hoe, which will prevent the wind 
from tw^isting them about and dis- 
turbing their young roots. 

Soil and Manure. — Broccoli 
thrives best in a deep, loamy, well- 
drained soil ; but it is not very 
particular in this respect, and will 
produce fine heads in any well- 
enriched soil of which the staple is 
loam. In old garden soils in which 
humus has accumulated, it is often 
attacked with the grub or maggot, 
which causes " clubbing." In such 
cases lime may be applied with 
advantage, or burnt clay and fresh 



loam. The ground should be 
trenched two or three spades deep 
previous to planting, and the 
manure, if rotten, well incorporated 
with the soil, or, if rank, buried in 
the bottom of the trench. If 
trenching cannot be done, then 
Broccoli should follow some other 
crop, such as Potatoes or Onions, 
or any crop not belonging to the 
Cruciferae or tap-rooted section, such 
as Carrots, Turnips, or Beet, and the 
ground should be dug as deeply as 
a good spade will go, and w^ell 
manured. Where the soil in which 
Broccoli is to be planted is naturally 
of a light character, if moderately 
rich, it should not be dug, but 
made as firm as possible round the 
plants. The best kind of manure 
for Broccoli is undoubtedly w^ell- 
rotted stable manure, with a sprink- 
ling of soot added to destroy worms. 
Watering is seldom necessary after 
plants get well established. 

Heeling-in Broccoli. — As re- 
gards the heeling-in or layering of 
Broccoli, many growers think it a 
great advantage, whilst others think 
it at least unnecessary. As a rule, 
private growlers are in favour of the 
practice of layering ; their objects 
being, firstly, to check growth, as 
they believe that disturbing the roots 
has the effect of hardening the whole 
plant, and of enabling it better to 
withstand severe weather ; secondly, 
to place the plants in such a posi- 
tion that the sun, during alternate 
frost and thaw, will not get to the 
hearts, as these suffer more after 
being thawed by the sun in the day 
than when continuously frozen. For 
this reason the heads are laid so 
as to face the north or w^est. To 
accomplish this, if the rows run 
east and west, they commence on 
the north side of the first row, and 
take out a spit of soil just the width 
of the spade, so as to form a trench 



220 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



within 2 or 3 in. of the stems of the 
plants, laying the soil, as the work 
proceeds, on the side away from the 
row\ This necessarily removes the 
soil from the roots, no more of 
which is broken off than can be 
avoided. All the plants in the row 
are then regularly bent over, until 
their heads rest on the ridge of soil 
taken out of the trench. When this 
is done, commence with the next 
row, taking the soil out so as to 
form a similar trench, and laying it 
in a ridge upon the stems of the 
row of plants bent over, so as to 
cover them right up to their bottom 
leaves ; and, in this way, proceed 
until the whole is completed. If 
the rows stand north and south, the 
work is begun on the west side. By 
this process, as will be seen, all the 
roots on one side of each row, and a 
portion of those on the other, are 
disturbed. This causes the leaves 
to flag a good deal for a week or 
two, and checks growth. The 
larger and more vigorous the plants, 
the greater the need for thus pre- 
paring them for winter. In light 
soils, where they can be got up 
without much mutilation of the 
roots, should it be desirable to 
prepare the ground for some other 
crop before the Broccoli is off in 
spring, they may be taken up alto- 
gether and laid in some more 
convenient place, lifting them, as 
far as possible, with all their roots 
intact. Where time can be spared, 
we believe this to be a good system, 
as we have noticed that where 
Broccoli is managed in this way, it 
is only during exceptionally severe 
winters that it gets destroyed. The 
length of time during which this 
vegetable affords a succession, at a 
period of the year when there is not 
much variety, makes it worth while 
to do all w^e can to prolong its 
season. Fortunately, however, severe 



injury to the Broccoli crop is the 
exception rather than the rule, and is 
quite as likely to be the consequence 
of imperfectly ripened stems as of 
hard weather. 

Protecting. — When Broccoli 
comes into use in too large quan- 
tities at a time, and a blank in the 
supply is likely to occur, some of 
the plants may be taken up and 
placed in an open shed in which 
there is a fair amount of light and 
air. Some ordinary soil may be 
put into it, and the plants, the heads 
of which shall have attained a usable 
size, may be placed in the soil — but 
not too thickly, or the leaves will 
turn yellow and injure the heads. 
If this be done in succession as the 
plants form heads, there will always 
be on hand a supply of BroccoH. 
Frames or pits are better than a 
shed in which to keep them, but 
these are generally required for 
other purposes. The practice of 
taking up Broccoli in autumn when 
nearly fit for use, and hanging them 
head downwards in a shed or other 
building, is not good ; for, .although 
they will keep for a time in that 
way, they get tough and inferior 
compared with those that have had 
their roots in moist soil. 

Growing for Exhibition. — 
W^hen Broccoli is required for ex- 
hibition, small plantations should 
be made in different situations, in 
order to make sure of having them 
in at the required time. For this 
purpose large compact heads are 
indispensable, though it is better 
to have them somewhat small and 
close than large and open. Trenches 
are sometimes dug for the plants, 
and it is a good system where time 
can be spared. The trenches should 
be dug 2 ft. wide and two spits deep; 
the top spit being taken out and laid 
on each side, then a good thick coat 
of fresh horse-droppings, or rotten 



BROCCOLI 



221 



manure, thrown in the trench, to be 
turned in and well incorporated with 
the second spit. The plants may 
then be put in, and as they grow the 
soil that was taken out of the trench 
may be put back round the stems 
of the plants and trodden in firmly. 
Good soakings of manure-water may 
be given when the soil is dry, but 
after the heads are once formed it 
must be discontinued, or it will cause 
the flower to open. In cutting, the 
whitest and firmest heads should be 
selected, and the more they resemble 
each other in size and appearance 
the better ; they should never be 
trimmed until they are going to 
be put on the exhibition table, and 
then not so severely as is often done. 
If it be necessary to cut the heads 
some time previous to their being 
shown, the best way is to divide 
them with 5 or 6 in. of stem and 
place them in shallow pans filled 
with cold water standing in a cool 
spot. The leaves should be tied 
over the flower, and, if an occa- 
sional sprinkling overhead be given 
them, it will help to keep them 
fresh. This will be found better 
than pulling up the roots and hang- 
ing them up in sheds and similar 
places. 

Culture for Market. — This 
crop is grown by market-gardeners 
near London chiefly under the shade 
of fruit-trees, but in the valley of the 
Thames there are acres of BroccoU 
in the open fields. The early sup- 
plies of Broccoli brought to the 
market are produced in the west of 
England, where the climate is mild, 
and the heads produced there are 
superior in size and quality to those 
grown near London. In mild seasons 
Broccoli is so good and plentiful as 
to be of little profit to the grower. 
In the winter of 1878 many never 
brought their produce to market at 
all, but made use of it at home, so 



low were the prices offered for it in 
the market. In the market-gardens 
about London, the Purple Sprout- 
ing, the Walcheren, Snow's Winter 
White, and Veitch's Autumn Giant 
are the kinds chiefly grown. ,The 
first sowing is usually made during 
the month of April on beds of rich 
soil. Sometimes, however, the time 
of year when ground will be vacant 
to receive the plants influences the 
time of sowing, for it is an important 
matter to have the young plants 
healthy and stocky at planting time. 
If sown so early as to have to be 
kept long in the seed-bed, they be- 
come drawn," and consequently 
do not yield such good results. 
Another sowing is generally made 
in the middle of May ; indeed, 
from this sowing the principal 
winter crop is obtained, and more 
plants are raised than are required, 
so that all clubbed and weakly 
ones can be discarded at planting 
time. 

A sowing of Sprouting Broccoli is 
made in the end of May or early 
in June, from which is obtained a 
supply of sprouts during the following 
winter and early spring, a time when 
they are in great demand. When the 
young Broccoli-plants appear above- 
ground they are first hand-weeded, 
and afterwards thinned by means 
of narrow hoes. As soon as they 
are strong enough for transplanting 
they are planted in rows under fruit- 
trees, or in any convenient situation. 
When planted between rows of fruit- 
bushes, two lines of plants are in- 
serted in the intervals between every 
two rows of trees; if two drills of 
Potatoes occupy the space between 
the trees, then only one line of 
Broccoli is planted, and that between 
the two drills of Potatoes. Should 
the whole space under an orchard be 
planted with Potatoes, as soon as 
these are earthed-up Broccoli is 



222 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



planted between the rows without we often see them in private gardens; 

the soil being loosened or dug. The yet it is seldom they are injured by 

Potatoes ripen before the Broccoli frost, and the fine white, firm heads 

can injure them much, and when the that may be seen by thousands in 

Potatoes are removed the Broccoli Covent Garden Market during the 

has the whole space to itself. - The autumn are seldom surpassed, if 

trees lose their leaves in October; even equalled, in private gardens, 

then the Broccoli, having the benefit In the neighbourhood of Shepperton, 

of increased light, becomes invigo- in the Thames valley, may be seen 

rated, and some of the plants then breadths of Broccoli from, twenty to 

begin to afford a good supply of thirty acres in extent, and from this 

sprouts, which are not all gathered place alone it is calculated that in 

at once, even from the same plant, the height of the season as many as 

but at intervals as they become 30,000 heads per week are sent to 

fit for use. The immense breadths market. In some parts of Kent 

of Broccoli grown in some of the Broccoli is grown to a large extent, 

market gardens render it almost one grower yearly planting over 

impossible to have all heeled in as 200,000 plants. 

Uses. — The same as those of the Cauliflower. The value of 
this vegetable to the many who depend on the markets for their 
supplies is greatly lessened by the deterioration it suffers from 
being cut long before being used. Early crops being grown in 
perfection in Cornwall, and at considerable distances from London, 
the heads are often stale before being used, even when they do not 
seem so. We have frequently noticed an intensely bitter flavour in 
the Broccoli sent to market, even when cooked in the most careful 
manner. Every one who can should grow their own, and cut it an 
hour before dinner ! 

Extra Early White Broccoli.— Hardy enough in the climate 
of Paris ; in earliness it surpasses all the other kinds. The 
leaves are short, compact in growth, somewhat less undulating 
than those of the Large White French Broccoli. The head is 
large, firm, white, and very fine in grain. It is a good variety 
for forcing. 

Early Saint-Laud Broccoli. — Leaves short but well developed, 
broad, of a grayish dark green colour, and slightly crimped ; head 
white and regular. A fine variety much grown in the south-west 
of France, where it comes into use between the Extra Early and 
the Extra Late Broccoli, a few days earlier than the Early White 
Broccoli. 

Large White French Broccoli {Brocoli blanc de Saint-Brieuc). 
— A vigorous-growing plant, with rather numerous, long, stiff 
leaves, of a glaucous green colour and deeply undulated on the 
edges ; the interior leaves which cover the head are very much 
twisted and almost curled ; head white, very compact, and 
continuing firm for a long time. A hardy and easily grown 
variety. 



BROCCOLI 



223 




Adam's Early White Broccoli natural size). 



Adam's Early White Broccoli. — This variety differs but little 
in its general character from the preceding one, from which it is 
particularly distinguished by being ten or twelve days earlier. It 
produces a great number 
of leaves, which are un- 
dulated at the edges to a 
remarkable degree. 

Roscoff White 
Broccoli. — This very ex- 
cellent kind, which is most 
extensively cultivated in 
the department of Finis- 
tere, is very like the 
preceding one, of which 
it may be considered a 
very constant and very 
early local form. This 
is the variety of which 
such large quantities are 
brought to Paris every year, at the end of the winter. 

Easter Broccoli. — This is a very handsome, early, and distinct 
variety. Its leaves are not so numerous as those of most other 
kinds of Broccoli, and have a peculiar triangular appearance, 
being rather short, broad at the base, and pointed at the end ; 
they are stiff, not much undulated, and are finely toothed on 
the edges ; their gray colour is equally characteristic. This 
variety, which in the south of France is also called the Easter 
Cauliflower {CJiou-fleur de Pdques), is very early, requires less 
attention than many other kinds, and even the weakest plants of it 

form very regular heads. 
It is one of the best kinds, 
though tender. 

Large White Mam- 
moth Broccoli. — A thick- 
set variety, lower in growth 
than the preceding kinds, 
and with shorter and 
broader leaves of a dark 
green colour, very nume- 
rous, surrounding and pro- 
tecting the head well ; the 
inner or heart leaves are 
often twisted ; head very 
large and w^hite, and of remarkably good quality. This is 
one of the latest varieties which continue to bear for the 
longest time. 




- ^ 

Easter Broccoli (-^ natural size). 



224 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Extra Late White Broccoli.— Leaves broad, entire, slightly 
crimped, undulating at the edges, set close to the head, which is 




Large White Mammoth BroccoU. 



■firm, white, and very finely grained. A very vigorous-growing and 
hardy variety, coming into use after the White Mammoth Broccoli 
in April or May, before the spring Cauliflowers appear in the 
markets. 

Purple Cape Broccoli. — See under Cauliflower. 
Purple Broccoli. — An exceedingly hardy kind, totally distinct 

from all other varieties ; 
^f^. .xsr^'m^ leaves rather deeply 

^^iffl^P lobed, numerous, long, 
spreading, pale grayish 
green, with purple- 
tinged veins ; head 
purple, rather firm, of 
medium size, and late 
to form. 

Purple Sprouting, 
or Asparagus, Broc- 
coli. — Under this name 
different varieties have 
been cultivated ; that 
which is now most 
commonly grown has 
purple stems and leaves, 
a-esembling a curled Red Cabbage up to a certain point, and 
producing not only in the heart but also in the axils of the leaves 




Extra Late White Broccoli. 



BROCCOLI 



225 



rather thick, fleshy purple shoots, the flower-buds of which do 
not abort like those varieties which form a true head. These 
shoots are produced in succession for a long time, and they are 
gathered as they lengthen and before the flowers open, and are 



unfortunately, does not endure severe winters in the climate of Paris. 

The number of kinds of Broccoli is extremely large, as it is one 
of those vegetables the varieties of which are not well established. 
In England, more than forty difi"erent forms of it are grown. Of 
these we mention here the kinds with coloured heads :— 

Green Cape. — A green-headed variety, which comes in in 
October and November. 

Late Green, or Late Danish.— The head of this is of the same 
colour as the preceding kind, but comes in in April and May. 

Late Dwarf Purple, or Cock's-comb Broccoli.— A very hardy, 
purplish-headed kind, coming in only in April and May. 

Among the white-headed kinds, the most esteemed are : — 

Backhouse's White Winter. — Distinct from Snow's and 
Osborn's, with the good qualities of both. 

Osborn's White Winter. — A fine mid-winter variety, with 
heads as white as a Cauliflower. 

Improved White Sprouting. — A variety very productive of 
shoots. 

Early Penzance (Cornish). — Turns in very early ; fine, coni- 
pact, pure white head. 




used like green Asparagus, 
from which circumstance 
the plant has received 
the name of Asparagus 
Broccoli. 



Purple Sprouting broccoli. 



Under the name of 
Sprouting Broccoli, a 
variety with green shoots 
is most commonly grown 
in England, the flowers 
of which are partially 
abortive and form at the 
end of every shoot a 
small bulging mass or 
lump, of a greenish yellow 
colour. The Marte Cauli- 
flower, of Bordeaux, is a 
true Sprouting Broccoli, 
which produces a great 
number of small, compact 
purplish heads of very 
good quality. This variety. 



226 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Knight's Protecting. — A very useful protecting variety. 
Sulphur. — Very useful, extremely hardy, and produces fine 
heads. 

Champion (Barr). — A very distinct, hardy early Broccoli. The 
flower is well protected, and, with good culture, if allowed to attain 
its full size, produces very large heads. 

Criterion (Barr). — The best of all the late Broccolis, coming 
into use after the middle of May, and giving a succession till the 
Cauliflowers are ready to cut. 

Chappel's Cream. — A fine variety, with large creamy white 
compact head. 

Lauder's Protecting Late White Goshen. — A fine, hardy late 
variety. 

Leamington (Perkins). — A well-protected, first-rate late 
Broccoli. 

Ledsham's Latest of All. — Certificated by the Royal Horti- 
cultural Society as one of the finest and latest varieties known ; 
head " white as snow." 

Cattell's Eclipse. — A handsome late form of the Mammoth 
Broccoli. 

Grange's Early Cauliflower Broccoli, or Bath White. — An 

extremely early kind, which begins to come in in October. 

Cooling's Matchless. — A rather leafy kind, but producing a 
fine white head, like the White Roscofif. 

Snow's Superb White Winter. — A compact, short-stemmed 
variety, which may be grown to come in either at the end of 
autumn or in spring. 

Veitch's Protecting. — A good hardy kind, the fine white 
heads of which are naturally protected by the peculiar growth of 
the leaves. 

Wilcove's. — A good late variety, which withstands the winter 
well. 

The Italians cultivate a great many varieties of Broccoli, and 
Italy is the country in which this vegetable originated ; but as 
Cauliflowers of every kind pass the winter there without injury, they 
give the name of Cauliflower to all the varieties which produce 
white heads, the name Broccoli being restricted to the sprouting or 
coloured varieties. The Giant Cauliflower of Naples is called a 
Broccoli in its native country. On all the coasts of the Mediter« 
ranean there are varieties of Cauliflower which come in all through 
the winter, in uninterrupted succession to the autumn kinds. There 
are also, among the purplish coloured Broccolis, particular kinds 
for every month of the winter ; those which come in in November 
are named San-Martinari^ in December Nataleschi, and the rest 
Gennajuolz, Febbrajuoli, Marzuoli, and Apriloti^ according as they 
come in in January, February, March, and April. 



CELERY 



227 



CELERY 

Apium graveolens, L. UmbellifercB, 

French, Celeri. German, Sellerie. Flemish, Selderij. Danish^ Selleri. Italian, 
Sedano, Apio. Spanish, Apio. 

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — A plant with a fibrous, rather 
fleshy root. Leaves divided, pinnate, smooth, with almost triangular 
toothed leaflets, of a dark green colour ; leaf-stalks rather broad 
furrowed, concave on the inside ; stem, which does not appear until 
the second year, about 2 ft. high, furrowed, and branching ; flowers 
very small, yellow or green, in umbels ; seed small, triangular, five- 
ribbed, and having a very aromatic odour. Their germinating 
power lasts for eight years. 



Culture. — In England Celery 
may be had for use from the begin- 
ning of September till late in April. 
The ground on which it is to be 
grown must be well drained to the 
depth of 3 or 4 ft., and trenched 
2 ft. deep, enriching it at the same 
time with good stable-yard manure 
and rotten leaves. The best way is 
to trench and ridge the ground at 
the same time, burying the manure 
deeply, so as to encourage deep 
rooting — an advantage during dry 
weather. Some time before the 
ground is required, level down the 
ridges ; if the soil is heavy, fork it 
over several times, in order to bring 
it into good condition before form- 
ing the trenches. The latter, for 
tall-growing varieties, should be 6 ft. 
apart, and for dwarfer sorts 4 ft. 
apart. Make them 18 in. deep and 
15 in. wide. If possible, they ought 
to run north and south, in order 
that the plants may have the benefit 
of the midday sun. Tread the 
bottom of them quite firm, and 
place in them from 6 to 9 in. of 
perfectly rotten manure, always pre- 
ferring rich, well-decayed material 
from the stable-yard. On this must 
be placed some soot, when the 
trenches will be ready to receive 
the plants. By placing the manure 
deep the roots reach it just when 



the centre leaves that are blanched 
are coming up, and if the plants 
are well fed at that time they form 
large hearts, crisp, and white as 
ivory. 

For very early Celery, pre- 
pare some rich soil and fill a seed- 
pan or box with the compost, firming 
it well ; sow the seeds thinly, cover 
them over lightly with some finely 
sifted soil, and water through a fine- 
rosed watering-pot, placing the pans 
or boxes upon a shelf in the stove or 
in a vinery at work. The seeds will 
soon germinate, and when the young 
plants have made two or three leaves 
prick them off into boxes in rich 
loamy soil with plenty of manure, 
a portion of leaf-mould, and a 
sprinkling of silver sand to keep the 
compost open. Seeds for the early 
crop ought to be sown in February, 
and the seedlings will be ready to 
plant out as soon as all danger from 
frost is over. Sometimes early 
Celery-plants are grown in 4 in. 
pots where pits or houses are at 
command, and thus treated they 
sustain no check when planted in 
the trenches and well watered. 

A second sowing may be made 
about the middle of March, either 
in boxes in a warm house or pit, or 
a slight hot-bed on which are put 
6 in. of fine, rich soil made pretty 



228 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



firm, covering lightly with some 
finely sifted soil. Prepare a piece 
of ground by treading it firmly and 
placing on it 6 in. of rotten horse- 
manure and leaf-mould in equal 
portions, tread firmly, and cover 
with 2 in. of fine, rich soil. When 
the plants have made two or three 
leaves, prick them out in rows 4 in. 
apart upon the bed thus prepared, 
firming them well in as the planting 
proceeds, and watering them with a 
fine-rosed pot, so as to settle the soil 
round them. If at hand, a frame 
might be placed over the bed for a 
short time until the young plants 
have got established, giving plenty 
of air during the daytime, or the 
plants can be covered with mats at 
night. If properly cared for, they 
will be fit to be transplanted into 
the trenches in two months from the 
time the seed was sown. 

For late plants a sowing may be 
made in April the same as in March, 
only the plants will need no pro- 
tection when pricked out. 

Trenches for Celery are often 
made between rows of early Peas, 
which shade the Celery-plants when 
newly planted in hot weather, and 
when the Pea crop is harvested the 
Celery has the full benefit of sun 
and air. The trenches being ready 
for the reception of the plants, water 
them the day previous to trans- 
planting ; lift them carefully with 
a trowel, preserving every fibre, 
replant i ft. apart, press the soil 
firmly round the roots, water well, 
and shade for a few days if the 
weather be dry and warm. The 
summer treatment consists in keep- 
ing the ground free from weeds by 
frequent hoeings, watering twice a 
week if the weather is very dry, 
and once if dull. When the plants 
are from 6 to 9 in. high, weak 
manure-water may be given them 
once a week. This is prepared by 



soaking either cow or horse manure 
in a large tub or tank, applying a 
portion of soot with the manure- 
water, or a handful of soot may be 
scattered occasionally around the 
plants before watering them. This 
destroys slugs and feeds the plants, 
giving them a fine green colour. 
In exposed situations it is often 
necessary to tie the leaves up when 
I ft. or so high, to save them from 
being broken by high winds, using 
for the purpose strands of fine 
matting, but be careful that the ties 
do not cut the leaves when growing. 
It is best not to earth the plants 
up much until they have nearly 
completed their growth. Merely 
scatter a little soil over the roots 
once a fortnight to serve as a mulch- 
ing and induce the roots to come to 
the surface. 

Blanching requires from five to 
seven weeks after the final earthing. 
Before commencing to earth up, 
all small leaves and any suckers, or 
secondary shoots, which may have 
grown from the base of the plants 
should be ranoved; tie the leaves 
carefully with some pieces of thin 
bast, which will give way as the 
plants swell. Some use tubes for 
blanching, such as drain-pipes, 
placed round the plants ; others 
paper collars, and some employ 
clean paper, which keeps the soil 
from getting into the hearts of the 
plants when earthing is being per- 
formed, raising the collars as the 
earthing proceeds, or the collars 
may be left upon the plants. If 
tubes are not used, the soil must be 
banked up in the usual way at several 
times, being careful to keep the 
leaves close together, so that the 
heads may be straight and compact 
after being blanched. Choose dry 
weather for earthing, for if damp 
the hearts are sure to rot. Before 
earthing scatter a little lime round 



CELERY 



229 



each plant, which destroys all slugs, 
which are often destructive to Celery 
during the winter in damp soil. A 
sprinkling may also be used when 
proceeding with the earthing. 

Celery may be grown in single 
rows or as many as may be thought 
fit, making the trenches wide enough 
to receive the number of rows in- 
tended. One row is the most con- 
venient in private gardens, and even 
market growers adopt single rows 
more than double ones. When the 
earthing is finished, and before 
severe frost sets in, cover the tops of 
the ridges with dry straw, or better, 
if at hand, some dry bracken, which 
prevents the frost from injuring the 
tops of the leaves and keeps the 
hearts of the plants dry. Perfect 
specimens of Celery must have the 
following good points — viz. the leaf, 
or stalk, must be broad, thick, crisp, 
free from ridges and stringiness, 
and the heads good in form and 
weight. — W. C. 

Market-Garden Culture. — 
The valley of the Thames is well 
adapted for Celery culture, and many 
acres of land in the Fulham fields 
and elsewhere are occupied by it. 
The sowing for the first crop of 
Celery is generally made early in 
February ; a large main sowing is 
made in March, and for the latest 
crop sowing takes place in the 
middle or end of April. The early 
and main sowings are usually made 
in frames on hot-beds, but for a late 
crop the seed is sometimes sown in 
the open air on manure-beds or in 
similar positions. The seed is sown 
at all times rather thickly, in moist, 
light soil, and is but lightly covered. 
When up, the seedhngs, if too thick, 
are thinned out to i in. or so apart. 
Some dig out trenches and fill them 
with fermenting material, on which 
they place a few inches thick of hght 
rich soil, and after sowing the seed 



cover the bed with mats or rough 
litter until the seed has germinated, 
when the coverings are removed 
during the daytime and replaced 
at night should the weather be 
unfavourable. 

In all cases the beds on which 
Celery-seed is sown are made firm 
either by treading or rolling, and 
a little light soil is sifted through a 
fine sieve over the seed after it has 
been sown. The seedlings in all 
cases are freely exposed to light and 
air in order to render them stout 
and stocky. Those from the first 
sowing, when large enough, are 
pricked out in frames on a bed of 
rotted manure, and those from the 
main and later sowings are pricked 
out in May and June on beds simi- 
larly prepared on a sheltered border 
out of doors. In these positions 
they receive abundance of water in 
order to keep them growing, for a 
check at any period in the growth 
of Celery-plants is very detrimental. 
The plants are usually pricked out 
in rows from 6 to 8 in. apart, about 
half that distance being allowed be- 
tween the plants in the rows. When 
planting time has arrived a spade is 
run between the rows and a good 
soaking of water is given, after which 
nothing more is done for a few days. 
A spade is then pushed under the 
plants, which are thus carefully 
raised, separated, and taken on 
hand-barrows or in boxes direct 
to the trenches. When planted, a 
good watering is given them, and 
thus they sustain a very slight check 
through removal; but market-gar- 
deners seldom plant Celery in double 
rows, as is done in private gardens, 
one row in each trench being con- 
sidered the most profitable way. 
The strongest plants are in all cases 
selected and placed in trenches by 
themselves, and the weaker ones 
by themselves. In that way a 



230 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



succession is formed, uniformity in 
the size of the heads is secured, and 
thus a whole row of plants becomes 
marketable at one time. They need 
no sorting, and the ground, being 
cleared, is made available for other 
crops. 

The ground on which it is in- 
tended to plant Celery is, if possible, 
prepared in autumn by being heavily 
manured and trenched, the surface 
being either thrown up in ridges or 
left in as rough a state as possible 
until spring, when it is levelled 
down to be sown with Radishes. In 
that case the land is marked out into 
a series of beds from 5 to 6 ft. wide, 
leaving good wide alleys between 
them. In these alleys is placed 
an extra supply of manure, and in 
them are planted the earliest Celery- 
plants. By the time these require 
earthing up the Radishes will have 
been marketed and the ground 
cleared of weeds, etc Sometimes, 
however, whole fields are marked 
off in beds and the trenches dug out 
in winter in readiness to receive 
the Celery, the beds being planted 
with Lettuces or early Cauliflowers. 
Market gardeners never plant Celery 
in deep trenches; on the contrary, 
they contrive to allow the roots, 
after the crop is fully earthed up, to 
be considerably above the bottom 
of the ridges. Especially is this the 
case as regards late crops, whicl^ in 
damp, badly drained soils are very 
precarious. During the growing 
season Celery is abundantly sup- 
plied with water, as are also the 
crops of salad plants, or French 
Beans, which are invariably grown 
between the lines. 

Earthing up is performed for the 
first time when the plants have 
become fairly established and are 
6 in. high ; the sides of the trenches 
are chopped down on the morning 
of some fine day, well broken up. 



and allowed to dry for an hour or 
two, when two men, one on each 
side of the row, push the soil with 
the back of a wooden rake to within 
a few inches of the plants, so as to 
leave a ridge for the reception of 
water. At the next earthing the 
soil is pressed tightly round the 
bases of the plants, and more of it 
is chopped down from the ridges ; 
and at the third, which is the final 
earthing, the ridges are made firm 
and smooth in such a way as to 
effectually throw off the rain. The 
Red and White varieties of Celery 
are the principal kinds grown, and 
under the treatment just recorded 
they become very crisp and solid. 
Sometimes a crop of Celery is grown 
for culinary purposes early in spring, 
and in that case the seeds are sown 
in June, and the young plants are 
pricked out rather closely together ; 
they are never earthed up more 
than once, the object being to 
secure plants with flavour rather 
than crispness and good quality. 

Keeping Celery. — In severer 
climates than ours it is often neces- 
sary to resort to other and better 
methods of preserving Celery than 
are generally practised in this 
country. In America, where the 
winters are much harder than they 
are here, various methods are in 
use, but the following, described by 
Mr. Peter Henderson, of New York, 
we consider the neatest and best, 
and it would be as well, in cases of 
a severer season than usual, that it 
should be known in this country. 
Indeed, it would be better to adopt 
it always, as by so doing this vege- 
table, which all enjoy, may be kept | 
better. Much disagreeable labour 
may also be avoided in digging in 
all sorts of weathers, apart from the 
injury to the plant from exposure 
to greatly varying temperatures and 
conditions of weather, as it is at 



CELERY 



231 



present. "Get a box 4 or 5 ft. 
long, 12 in. wide, and 20 or 24 in. 
deep. In the bottom place 2 or 3 in. 
of sand or soil — it makes little differ- 
ence what, provided it is something 
that will hold moisture. Into this 
box at the time when Celery is dug 
up (which in this district ranges from 
October 25th to November 25th), 
have the Celery stalks packed per- 
pendicularly with the roots resting 
on the sand. All that is necessary 
is to see that it is packed moderately 
tight, for if not packed tight the air 
would get around the stalks and 
prevent blanching. The box may 
be then set in any cool cellar, and 
will keep from the time it is put 
away until March if necessary. A 



box of the size named will hold 
about from seventy-five to one 
hundred roots, according to size. 
It is quite common for many fami- 
lies to purchase their Celery from 
the market-gardeners, place it away 
in a box in this manner in their 
cellars during the winter, where it 
can be conveniently got at, and it 
costs also in this way less than half 
what it does when purchased tied 
up from the benches in the market 
in the usual way. We have for many 
years followed this method for what 
we want for our own private use, 
finding it much more convenient to 
get it out of the boxes in the cellar 
than to go to the trenches in the 
open ground for it in all weathers." 



Uses. — The leaf-stalks of some kinds and the roots of others 
are eaten either raw or boiled. In England the seeds (or an 
extract from them) are used for flavouring soups. Popular as 
Celery is in England as a cooked vegetable, we have still much 
to learn about it. The Turnip-rooted, the best of all winter roots, 
is hardly ever seen out of a few foreign houses. 

Cultivation, in developing the leaves and the root of the Celery, 
has produced two very distinct varieties of the same plant, which 
are differently employed and require a different mode of culture. 
These are known as the Common, or Stalked, Celery, and the 
Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery. 

Common Celery* ((T^'/^r/ d Cotes). — This is undoubtedly the 
most anciently known and the most commonly cultivated kind. 
It requires a good, rich, soft, well-manured soil, rather moist than 
dry, and is not usually sown where the crop is to be grown. The 
earliest sowings are made on a hot-bed in January, February, or 
March, and the seedlings, while still small, are pricked out into 
another hot-bed, and not planted out permanently until the end of 
April or the beginning of May. Subsequent sowings, which may 
be continued till June, are made in the open ground, so as to have 
a successional supply of fresh, tender stalks all the year round. 
The seedlings of these later sowings are not pricked out, but 
simply thinned and allowed to remain where they were sown, 
until they are finally planted out When this takes place, the 
plants are set in rows, with a distance of 10 or 12 in. from plant to 
plant in all directions, and the only attention they require is that 
of hoeing, and frequent and plentiful waterings, in which they 
delight. 

* Celery Leaf Blight, see p. 776. Celery Maggot or Leaf Miner, see p. 776. 



232 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Before the stalks are sent to table, they are blanched by 
excluding the light from them. This is done in many ways, most 
usually by tying up the outer leaves around the inner ones, and 
then earthing up the stalks as far as the lowest leaves. This is not 
generally done all at once, but at first the stalks are earthed up for 
about one-third of their height, and, eight or ten days afterwards, 




Solid White Celery natural size). Golden-yellow Large Solid Celery. 



Up to two-thirds, the remaining third being completed at the end 
of eight or ten days more. 

Sometimes the plants are taken up with balls and planted side 
by side in a trench, which is then filled with soil ; and sometimes 
they are planted in spring in trenches, where they are blanched 
when the time comes, without being transplanted, by filling in the 
trench with the soil which was taken out in opening it. 

Solid White Celery. — A vigorous-growing kind, i6 to 20 in. 
high, with fleshy, solid, and tender stalks,' which, in blanching, 



CELERY 



233 



become yellow-white. Leaves erect. This variety is the best for 

market-garden culture. 

Paris Golden Celery. — A very fine variety of Parisian origin ; 
half-dwarf, compact, with well-developed leaves, of light green with 
golden tints. The ribs are thick, broad, fleshy, and naturally ivory- 
white, though to fit it for the table it is blanched the same as other 
varieties. It is vigorous and early, easy of cultivation, and in every 
way desirable ; but it calls for some care at the end of the season, 
as it does not stand 
wet so well as most of 
the other sorts. 

Rose-ribbed Paris 
Celery.— An excellent 
variety selected from 
the Golden Paris, of 
which it possesses all 
the good qualities, and, 
like it, has broad, thick 
ribs, and is not liable 
to become hollow. It 
is upright and com- 
pact. The foliage has 
a golden tinge which 
increases and becomes 
more conspicuous as 
the autumn advances. 
It is also distinguished 
for the rosy colour of 
the ribs. The stalks 
are much less coloured 
than those of the red 
varieties, and, when 
blanched, assume an 
ivory colour slightly 
tinged red, which is 
very attractive. It is 
cultivation. 

Pascal Celery. — A very vigorous and an extremely productive 
variety, with short, broad, thick, tender and fleshy green ribs, which, 
however, blanch very readily if only tied or earthed up. The 
leaves are upright, vigorous, short, and dark green. It keeps quite 
well under cover during winter. 

White Solid Arezzo Celery. — A very fine, tall, vigorous 
variety, with dark green and slightly crimped leaves, and very thick, 
broad, tender, and fleshy stalks. Its interest is rather for growers 
in the south of France. 




Rose- ribbed Paris Celery, Self-blanching. 

one of the best celeries for autumn 



234 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



'm 



Dwarf Solid White 
Celery. — This variety, 
besides being easily 
blanched, has the further 
advantage of not pro- 
ducing suckers. The 
stalks are extremely 
broad, solid, and erect, 
so that the plants may 
be grown very close 
together, thereby obtain- 
ing from an equal area 
as heavy a crop as that 
produced by the larger 
varieties. The stalks are 
more largely developed 
in proportion to the 
dimensions of the leaves 
in this variety than in 
any other. 

Curled Solid White 
Celery. — A very distinct 
variety, with numerous 
large leaves. Leaflets 
crisped and undulating, 
and a lighter green than those of any other variety. The stalks 
are fairly thick and perfectly solid, and the leaves, instead of 
being bitter, like those of 
other kinds, have a mild 
flavour and can be used 
in salads. This new 
variety was raised in the 
neighbourhood of Niort 
(Vendee), and began to 
be distributed about the 
year 1870. It is, perhaps, 
somewhat more sensitive 
to cold than the plain- 
leaved kinds. 

White Plume Celery 
{Celeri Pie in Blanc 
d'' Amerique). — A very 
distinct kind, introduced 
from the United States 
of North America in 1885. 

Jt is characterised by the Dwarf Solid White Large-ribbed Celery. 



White Solid Pascal Celery. 




CELERY 



235 




Curled Solid White Celery. 



Silver-white colour with which its 
leaves are partly tinged at first, 
and which later on extends to 
all the central part of the plant 
and sometimes to the whole of the 
foliage. The ribs are white, but, 
like those of the other varieties, 
need to be blanched to become 
quite tender. It is about the 
same size as the Paris Golden 
Celery, but broader in habit. It 
suffers easily from cold, for which 
reason it should be grown for 
autumn rather than for winter use. 

Fern-leaved Celery. — A very 
curious variety, with finely cut 
foliage, having the same qualities 
as the other White Solid Celeries. 

Endive Celery {Celeri Scarole). 
— This is an almost unribbed variety, with leaves that spread 
over the ground. Rather uncommon in appearance, it hardly 
deserves a place in the vegetable garden, seeing that the only 
useful part of it has been reduced to almost nothing. 

The Hartshorn Celery 
is a sub-variety of the pre- 
ceding kind, and, like it, 
almost unribbed. It is dis- 
tinguishable by its finely 
cut leaves, which resemble 
those of the Rouen, or 
Staghorn, Endive. 

Dwarf Solid White, 
Sandringham, or Incom- 
parable, Celery. — A more 
thickish kind than the 
common Solid White Celery. 
Stalks broad and very solid; 
leaves short. This variety is 
easily blanched, on account 
of the great number of its 
leaves, which cover one 
another closely, so that very 
white stalks may be obtained 
from it by merely earthing 
them up, without the trouble 
of tying up the leaves. In 




White Plume Celery. 



236 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



the United States a variety is grown, under the name of Boston 
Market Dwarf Celery, which comes very close to the present kind, 
differing from it only in being somewhat taller. Unfortunately, 
very frequently it has the defect of sending out underground 
shoots or suckers. 

Mammoth White Celery {Celeri Turc). — A sub-variety of the 
White Solid Celery, of extremely vigorous growth, attaining a 
height of from 20 in. to 2 ft. Stalks very solid, thick, and long, 

but relatively not so broad 
as those of the Solid 
White Celery. This form 
seems to be disappearing. 

Amongst good English 
varieties of White Celery 
the following are worthy 
of note : Danesbury Celery, 
or VeitcHs Solid White 
Celery , Dickson' s Mammoth 
White Celery, and Luck- 
hurst Giant White Celery. 
These are compact varie- 
ties, with very solid stalks, 
something like those of 
the Dwarf Solid White 
Celery. — Dobbies Invin- 
cible Celery, Seymotir's 
White, ox Goodwin's White, 
and Northumberland 
White Celery. A very 
tall kind, somewhat re- 
sembling the Mammoth 
White Celery. 

London Market Red, 
Red Giant Solid, or 
Ivery's None-such Celery 
{Celeri Violet de Tours). — 
A vigorous kind, with 
very broad, very solid, tender, and brittle stalks of a purple tinged 
green colour. Leaves half-spreading, broad, and dark green. It 
is a very hardy variety, and of excellent quality. 

Red Large-ribbed Celery. — This is less coloured and more 
vigorous in growth than the preceding. In shape it resembles the 
Pascal Celery, from which it has sprung ; but it has thicker and 
stiffer stalks. It is a short, compact plant, hardy, and keeping well. 
The stalks are thick, tender, and do not become hollow, like most 
of the early varieties. It is well suited for autumn cultivation. 




Red Giant Solid Celery. 



CELERY 



237 



In England a great number of varieties of Red-stalked Celery 
are grown, of which, in addition to the present one, we may 
mention : Aylesbury Prize Red Celery^ tall and well coloured. Early 
Rose Celery^ with purplish ribs and pointed leaves, — Major Clarke's 
Solid Redy or Wilcox's Dunham Red, Ramsey's Solid Red, Turners 
Red Celery. A vigorous-growing variety, almost as tall as the 
Mammoth White, but with more branching leaves, which are also 
of a deeper green colour. — Select Red Celery, Standard-Bearer Celery, 
and Winchester Pink Celery, well coloured and rather short. 
Carter's Inco^nparable Crimson, ox Hood's Dwarf Red, Celery. This 
is dwarfer than any other Red variety, but very solid, and crops 
well. Man of Kent, rose-coloured rather than red, half-compact 
and distinct. Manchester Red, Laings Mammoth, Fulharn Prize 
Pink, or Giant Red, Celery. An extremely vigorous-growing kind, 
attaining a height of over 3 ft. 

Celery culture in the United States has grown greatly in extent 
of recent years ; Michigan, Ohio, and New-York States alone 
devoting thousands of acres annually to an industry which supplies 
the great markets of the east and centre from June to January ; 
and California and Florida keeping up the supply for the remain- 
ing months of the year. In America the varieties of celery in 
cultivation exceed largely in number those grown in Europe. 
The Paris Golden, the White Plume, the Pascal, and the Dwarf 
Large-ribbed White Solid Celery are the kinds most cultivated ; 
but, besides these, there are a certain number of varieties which 
more or less resemble the last-named Celery, with slight differences 
as regards height, earliness, and colour. Among the most important 
of these we may cite : — 

Boston Market Celery, — A compact thick-ribbed, solid white 
variety, much esteemed in Boston markets. 

Crawford's Half-dwarf Celery. — Rather taller than our Dwarf 
Large-ribbed White Solid Celery, with solid, not very large stalks, 
ivory-white when blanched, 

Evans' Triumph Celery. — One of the best of the late kinds, 
medium-sized, long-ribbed, white, solid, and good in quality. 

Golden Heart, or Golden Dwarf, Celery. — Half-long, given to 
throwing out suckers, solid-ribbed and good in quality ; also a 
handsome light-coloured stalk when blanched. It is hardy, and 
much cultivated for the late season's and winter market. 

New Rose Celery. — A handsome violet-coloured variety, 
resembling the Violet Tours Celery, but with ribs • uniformly solid, 
tender, and excellent in quality. • 

Perfection Heartwell Celery. —A late variety, a little taller 
than the Dwarf Large-ribbed White Solid Celery ; it is yellow- 
hearted, with medium-sized but solid stems, tender, and good in 
quality. 



238 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Pink Plume Celery. — Differs from the White Plume Celery- 
only in being more or less rosy in the ribs. 

Winter Queen Celery. — Late, compact, easily blanched to a 

cream shade, with solid 
fleshy ribs that are much 
esteemed. 

Two other Celeries 
cultivated in America are 
Fin de Siecle and 
Schumacher, vigorous, tall, 
long-ribbed varieties, 
much liked in some 
localities. 

Soup Celery. — A 
variety that has been very 
little improved by cultiva- 
tion, and is probably a 
reversion towards the wild 
state. It is hardy, and 
produces an abundance 
of erect-growing leaves. 
Stalks hollow, rather thin, 
tender, and brittle. The 




Soup Celery (-^ natural size). 



plant sends up great numbers of suckers, and is grown for its 
leaves, which are cut, like Parsley, and is used in soups and for 
seasoning. After being cut it produces new leaves. 



CELERIAC, or TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY 

French^ Celeri-rave. German, Knoll-Sellerie. Flemish and Dutch, Knoll-Selderij. 
Danish^ Knold-Selleri. Italian, Sedano-rapa. Spanish, Apio-nabo. 

In this kind of Celery it is the root which has been developed 
by cultivation, and not the leaf-stalks, which remain hollow and of 
moderate size, while the flavour is so bitter that they are unfit for 
table use. On the other hand, the root (which, even in the wild 
plant, forms an enlargement of some size before it divides into 
numerous rootlets) has been brought by cultivation to easily attain 
the size of the fist, and often even double that size. The Turnip- 
rooted Celery is an excellent vegetable, but, as its introduction into 
cultivation is of comparatively recent date, it is not, as yet, very 
commonly grown. It keeps well, and forms a valuable contribution 
to the winter supply. 

Culture. — It is grown nearly in the same way as the Common 
Celery, and, like it, requires good, rich, moist, mellow, and well- 
manured soil. It is generally sown in a nursery-bed in March, and 
planted out in May. The plants require no further attention than 



CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY 239 



frequent waterings, and to have the ground kept free from 
weeds. The market-gardeners of Paris are in the habit, while 
the plants are growing, of chopping off with the spade the 
rootlets which grow around the main root, under the (perhaps 
erroneous) impression that by doing so they cause the main root 
to attain a greater size. 

Common Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery. — Leaves smaller 
than those of the Common or Stalk Celery ; stalk always hollow, 
bitter-tasted, and tinged with a red or bronzy hue ; root forming a 
sort of ball, which is roundish or conical in the upper part, and 
divided underneath into a great number of rootlets or ramifications, 
which are more or less 
fleshy and tangled together. 
The weight of this, when 
trimmed of the leaves and 
rootlets, ranges from 7 to 
over 10 oz. in the Common 
variety, but roots of much 
larger size have been ob- 
tained from other varieties. 

Smooth Paris Celeriac. 
— Root generally broader 
than long, and somewhat 
irregular in shape ; leaves 
rather numerous, more 
spreading than erect. 

Improved Paris 
Celeriac. — This is a variety 
obtained by selection from 
the preceding, than which 

it is larger and smoother, Turnip-rooted Celery. 

though the roots would 

grow rather irregular if growers were not careful to cut 
the side rootlets with the spade, and to pinch off the neck 
shoots. The market-gardeners of the vicinity of Paris prefer 
this variety over all others for growing in spent manure mould, 
or terreau. 

Large Early August, or Variegated-leaved, Celeriac. — The 
root is round, regular, of medium size, and excellent quality. 
Remarkable for its very conspicuously striped yellow and green 
foliage, which, with the rosy ribs, has a pleasing effect. It makes 
a handsome border that will last until the frost sets in, and help to 
brighten the monotony of the kitchen-garden. 

Early Erfurt Celeriac. — A smaller kind than the Paris Celeriac, 
but also earlier. Root very clean-skinned, regularly rounded in 
shape, and with a fine neck. 




240 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Apple-shaped Celeriac. — A sub-variety of the Early Erfurt 
kind, with slight, half-erect leaves, and long purplish leaf-stalks. 
Root very regularly rounded in shape, and entirely free from 
rootlets on the upper part. 

There is an extraordinarily small kind of Turnip-rooted Celery, 
the leaves of which are only 4 or 5 in. long, while the root is seldom 




Apple-shaped Celeriac. 



Large Smooth Prague Celeriac. 



larger than a walnut. It is more curious than useful, and is known 
as the Tom Thumb Erfurt Turnip-rooted Celery. 

Prague Celeriac. — This may be described as a highly developed 
form of the Erfurt variety, the roots of which are almost spherical, 
evenly shaped, and without rootlets, except on the under-part. 
They are usually double the size of those of the Erfurt variety, 
and the leaf-stalks are somewhat stouter and whiter. ^ 



CHERVIL 

Scandix Cerefolium^ L. ; Anthriscus Cere folium^ Hoffm. Umbellifercs, 

French, Cerfeuil. German, Kerbel. Flemish and Dutch, Kervel. Danish, Have-kjorvel. 
Italian, Cerfoglio. Spanish, Perifollo. Portuguese, Cerefolio. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — Leaves very much 
divided, with oval, incised, pinnatifid leaflets ; stem 16 to 20 in. 
high, smooth and few-leaved ; flowers small, white, in umbels ; seed 
black, long, pointed, marked with a longitudinal furrow. Their 
germinating power lasts for two or three years. The seed may be 
sown all through the year in the open ground, where the crop is to 
grow, but in very hot weather it is better to sow in a shady position 
with a northern aspect According to the season, the leaves may 



CHERVIL 



241 




Common, or Plain, Chervil. 



be cut in from six weeks to two months after sowing. The leaves 
are aromatic, and are used for seasoning and in salads. It is in 
much demand in English 
gardens. 

Common, or Plain- 
leaved, Chervil. — Leaves 
slight, very much divided, 
and light green ; stems 
slender, slightly swollen 
below the joints, chan- 
nelled, and smooth ; 
flowers in thin umbels 
produced in tiers on all 
the upper half of the 
stem. This is one of the 
most widely distributed 
and best known of all 
kitchen-garden plants. It 
is seldom used by itself, 
but, from its fine, strong, 
aromatic flavour, forms an 
almost indispensable ac- 
companiment to a great 
number of dishes. It constitutes the basis of the mixture known 
by the French name of fines herbes. It can be grown in almost 
any climate, but where the heat is great, it should have a shaded 
position. 

-A variety of the preceding kind, with crisped 
or curled leaves. It has 
exactly the same per- 
fume and flavour as the 
Common, or Plain-leaved, 
Chervil, and is better for 
garnishing dishes. It 
should always be grown 
in preference to the 
Common kind, as it has 
all its advantages, viz. it 
is easily cultivated, early, 
of vigorous growth, pro- 
ductive, and, as we have 
just mentioned, it is 
handsomer and more 
ornamental. Its chief 
merit, however, is that it cannot be confounded with any other 
plant ; for although the least practised eye may be able to 

16 



Curled Chervil. 




Curled Chervil. 



242 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



distinguish the Chervil from other umbelliferous plants, there is 
a double security in cultivating a form of it for which no noxious 
wild plant whatever can possibly be mistaken. 

TURNIP-ROOTED CHERVIL 

Chcerophyllum bulbosum^ L. Umbelliferce. Cerfeuil tubereux. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Biennial. — Plant hairy, with leaves 
very much divided, spreading on the ground, and violet leaf-stalks. 
Root much swollen, almost like a short Carrot, but generally 
smaller, with a very fine dark gray skin and yellow-white flesh ; 
stem very stout and tall, 3 ft. or more in height, swollen below the 
joints, of a violet tint, and covered on the lower part with long 
whitish hairs ; seeds long, pointed, slightly concave, light brown on 

one side, whitish on the 
other, and marked length- 
ways with three furrows 
of no great depth. Their 
germinating power lasts for 
only one year. 

Culture. — The seed 
should be sown in autumn, 
in well-prepared, mellow, 
well-drained soil, care being 
taken to cover it very 
slightly. It is generally 

quite sufficient to press the 

, ■ . soil down well after sowing;. 

Turmp-rooted Chervil (i- natural size). r^^^ seed-bed should be 

kept very free from weeds, as the seeds will not germinate before 
spring. The seed may also be sown in spring, if the precaution 
is taken of keeping it in the meantime between layers of sand 
in a box, basin, or other vessel, in which it should be placed as 
soon as it is ripe. If this is done, it will germinate immediately 
after it is sown, but if kept in any other way, it will not 
germinate until the spring of the following year. While growing, 
the plants require no attention at any time, except frequent 
waterings. About July, the leaves begin to lose colour and to 
dry up, which indicates that the roots are nearly matured. When 
the leaves are quite withered, the roots may be taken up, if the 
ground is required for other purposes, but it is better not to com~ 
mence using them too soon, as they improve very much in quality 
by being allowed to remain in the ground some weeks or even 
months, provided they are in well-drained ground and safe 
from frost. 




TURNIP-ROOTED CHERVIL 



243 



Uses. — The roots are eaten boiled. The flesh is floury and 
sweet, with a peculiar aromatic flavour. They keep well all through 
autumn and winter. 

Attempts have been made of late years to introduce into kitchen- 
gardens the culture of the Prescott Chervil {Cerfeuil de Prescott), a 
native of Siberia, which produces large edible roots like those of the 
variety just described, and is grown much in the same way. Its 
roots are longer and larger than those of the Common Tuberous- 
rooted Chervil, but their flavour is coarser and more like that of 
the Parsnip. The seeds grow easily, but should not be sown 
before July, or the plants will rapidly run to seed. 

CHICKLING VETCH 

Lathy rus sativus, L. Leguminoscs. 

French, Gesse cultivee, Lentille d'Espagne, Pois carre. German, Essbare Platterbse, 
Weisse Platterbse, Deutsche Kicher. Flemish, Platte erwt. Spanish, Arveja. 
Spanish- American, Muelas. 

Native of Europe. — Annual. — Stem winged, 16 to 20 in. high, 
maintaining an erect position with difficulty without some support ; 
leaves compound, pinnate, without an odd one, the place of which 
is supplied by a prehensile tendril ; leaflets four in number, long 
and narrow ; flower-stalks slender, axillary, one-flowered, com- 
mencing to appear at the fifth or sixth joint of the stem. Flowers 
smaller than those of the Pea, but the same in shape, white, tinged 
with blue on the standard ; pods broad and short, very flat, thick, 
and winged ; seed white, somewhat variable in shape, triangular or 
square, broader and thicker at the side of the hilum than at the 
other side. The seed is sown in spring like Peas, in the place 
where the crop is to grow, and the growing plants require no special 
attention. The unripe seeds are eaten like green Peas ; when ripe 
and dried, they may be used to make pea-soup. The use of this 
Vetch is very little understood in England, but we have heard 
that Spanish cooks make a nice dish of it. 

CHICK-PEA 

Cicer arietinum^ L. LeguminoscB. 

French, Pois chiche. German, Kicher-Erbse. Italian, Cece. Spanish, Garbanzo, 
Portugziese, Chicaro. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — A rough-stemmed plant, 
almost always branching near the ground, and from 20 in. to 2 ft. in 
height. Stem hairy, as are also the leaves, which are compound, 
pinnate with an odd one, and with small, round, toothed leaflets ; 
flowers axillary, small, solitary, white in the ordinary variety, and 
red in the kinds which have coloured seeds ; pods short, much 



244 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

swollen, hairy, like the rest of the plant, with a hard membranous 
lining, each containing two seeds, one of which is often abortive. 
Seed rounded, but flattened at the sides, and with a kind of beak 
formed by the projection of the radicle ; its appearance resembles 
that of a ram's head and horns, whence the specific name of the 
plant. Its germinating power lasts, like that of all other Peas, 
for at least three years. 

Culture. — The seed is sown in spring, as soon as the ground 
is warm enough, preferably in drills i6 to 20 in. apart, and so that 
the plants will be 8 to 10 in. from one another in the drill. They 
are treated much in the same way as Dwarf Kidney Beans, and 
require no attention except the occasional use of the hoe. They 
bear dry weather better than almost any other kind of leguminous 
plant. In the south of France the seeds may be sown in February. 

Uses. — The ripe seeds are eaten either boiled entire or made 
into pea-soup. They are sometimes roasted and used as a substitute 
for coffee. 

White Chick-pea. — This is the most generally cultivated 
variety, and, indeed, is the only one that deserves to be con- 
sidered a table vegetable. There are a great many forms of it, 
differing slightly from one another in earliness and the size of the 
seed. In Spain some kinds of remarkable size and beauty are 
grown. 

There are two varieties of the Chick-Pea grown in the East, one 
of which has red and the other black seeds. The former is very 
extensively cultivated in the East Indies, both as a table vegetable 
and for .feeding cattle, and is one of the kinds known as Horse 
Gram, as it is very much used for feeding horses. The Black- 
seeded variety is more curious than useful. 

CHICORY, or SUCCORY 

CicJiorium Intybus, L. Composites. 

French, Chicoree sauvage, C. Barbe-de-capucin. German, Wilde oder bittere Cichorie. 
Danish, Sichorie. Italian, Cicoria selvatica, Radicchio, Radicia. Spanish, 
Achicoria amarga o agreste. Fortttguese, Chicorea selvagem. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Radical leaves deep green, 
sinuated, with pointed, toothed, or cut lobes, and hairy, often red 
stalks ; stems from 5 to over 6 ft. high, cylindrical, downy, green or 
red, with spreading branches ; flowers large, blue, axillary, almost 
sessile ; seed generally smaller, browner, and more glistening than 
that of the Endive. Its germinating property lasts for eight 
years. 

The Common Chicory, which is found in almost all parts 
of Europe in the wild state, has been used from time im- 
merfiorial for salads, and also as a medicinal plant. When 



CHICORY, OR SUCCORY 



245 



cultivated, its produce is increased in quantity and improved in 
quality, the leaves losing much of their natural bitterness. Forced 
in darkness, in winter, it forms the highly esteemed blanched 
vegetable known as Barbe-de-capucin. The large-rooted variety 
of it, treated in the same way, produces the vegetable known in 
Belgium by the name of Witloof. 

Culture. — The Common Chicory is an exceedingly easy plant 
to grow. The seed is sown in spring, in the place where the crop 
is to stand, in drills, or, more commonly, along the sides of 
alleys, and is generally sown very thick, in order that the leaves 
of the plants may be 
closely crowded together. 
The leaves are gathered 
as they are wanted by 
cutting them near the 
ground with a sickle or 
a knife. They may be 
cut several times in the 
same year. It is a good 
plan to make a fresh 
sowing every year, clear- 
ing out the old plants 
which have fallen off in 
produce and are about 
to run to seed. In 
order to produce the 
Barbe-de-capucin^ plants 
are employed which have 
been sown rather thinly 
in the open ground 
about the end of June. 
At the beginning of 
winter these are taken 
up, and the leaves are trimmed off about \ in. above the neck of 
the root ; then, in a dark cellar, or other place, the temperature 
of which is not too cold, sloping heaps are made, composed of 
alternate layers of sand or of soil taken from well-drained ground, 
and of Chicory-roots placed horizontally and with the necks of the 
roots pointing outwards, clear of the sand or soil, so that the leaves 
may grow freely. If the soil used is too dry, a slight watering will 
be necessary, after which the plants are left to themselves, and in 
about three weeks' time, if the temperature is not too low, leaves 
8 to 10 in. long may be gathered. 

A few years ago, in the neighbourhood of Paris, they began to 
use for this purpose the Large-rooted Chicory, the roots of which 
are allowed to attain the thickness of the finger before they are 




Chicory, or Succory (blanched) natural size). 



246 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



forced. These roots, being very straight and regular in shape, are 
easily arranged in the forcing heaps, and the leaves are generally 
much larger and stouter than those of the Common Chicory. 

Uses. — The leaves 
are used as salad, either 
in their natural state or 
blanched, as described 
above. Cut into thin 
shreds, and mixed with 
oil and vinegar, they 
are very largely used 
in some countries as 
a seasoning for boiled 
beef. 

Red Italian 
Chicory. — The merit of 
this variety consists in 
the variegations which 
sometimes cover the 
entire surface of the 
to the green. On the 




Red-leaved Lombardy Chicory. 



a bronzed appearance 



leaves and g 

blanched leaves these blotches are a fine bright red, and a very 
effective contrast. With this Chicory it is possible to have variegated 
salads in winter, as with the blotched Lettuces and Cos Lettuces 
during summer. 

Large - rooted Chicory. — 
This variety is distinguished 
by the large size of the root, 
which is thick and straight, 
attaining a length of 12 to 
14 in., with a diameter of about 
2 in. below the neck. It is 
the kind which is employed 
for the manufacture of " Coffee 
Chicory." This is obtained by 
cutting the roots into thin slices, 
which are then roasted and 
ground. The plant is grown 
for this purpose chiefly in Ger- 
many, Belgium, and the north 
of France. There are two very 
distinct varieties of it, named the 
Brunswick and the Magdeburg 

Large-rooted Chicory. Brunswick Chicory (1 natural size). 

The Brunswick variety has very deeply cut leaves, divided like 
those of the Dandelion, and more or less spreading horizontally 




CHICORY. OR SUCCORY 



247 




while the leaves of the 
Magdeburg variety are 
undivided and stand quite 
erect The iatter is con- 
sidered the more productive 
of the two. Its roots are 
longer and thicker, although 
not quite so regular. It is 
not unusual to find single 
roots of it which weigh 
from 14 to 17 oz., and 
which look very like dwarf 
White Sugar Beets, such 
as the German kinds, when 
they are grown very close 
together. As already men- 
tioned, the Large - rooted 
Chicory is often employed 
to form \\\^Barbe-de-capucin. 

Witloof, or Large 
Brussels Chicory. — This 
plant may be considered 
as a sub-variety of the 
Magdeburg Large - rooted 
Chicory. Its principal merit consists in the width of its leaves 
and the great size of their ribs or stalks. When blanched in the 
way described farther on, it forms the vegetable 
which the Belgians call Witloof, as already 
mentioned. As shown in the illustration, this 
very much resembles a blanched head of Cos 
Lettuce in appearance. 

Culture. — In order to obtain good specimens 
of Witloof well-grown roots of the plant should 
ilr ffWM ^^^^ ' obtain these the seed should 

vir) WM be sown in the open ground, in June, in drills 
10 or 12 in. apart, selecting good, deep, rich soil 
for the purpose. The plants are allowed to grow 
on till the beginning of winter, without any 
attention except keeping the ground free from 
weeds, and watering when necessary. In the 
beginning of November, the roots (which by that 
time should have attained a diameter of from \\ 
to nearly 2 in.) are taken up, those which have 
divided or too narrow leaves being thrown aside, 
^B^usiirchicofy if ^ith, as well as any which 

(J natural size), bear several heads. The leaves of all the selected 



Magdeburg Chicory (-J natural size). 




248 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



roots are then trimmed off about in. from the neck, and 
any secondary shoots that may appear on the sides of the roots 
are pinched out, the lower end of the roots being also shortened 
so as to bring them all to a uniform length of 8 to lo in They 
are then ready for planting, for which a trench i6 to i8 in. 
deep is opened, and the roots are placed upright in it, about 
I J in. from one another; the necks of the roots will thus be 
about 8 in. below the level of the ground. The trench is then 
filled up completely with good, light, well-drained soil. If a 
speedy growth is desired, the surface of the trench, or of what- 
ever portion of it is to be forced, should be covered with a layer of 
manure varying in depth according to the quality of the manure 
and the prevailing temperature, but never less than i6 in. nor 
more than a little over 3 ft. In about a month's time, the leaves 
will have attained their proper size. The manure is then taken 
off, the roots are dug up, and the blanched head is cut off with a 
portion of the neck of the root attached. Placing the layer of 
manure under the roots has not been at all satisfactory, the heads 
opening instead of remaining closed, from which it would appear 

that a heavy pressure is 
needed in order to induce 
the heads to grow into the 
right shape. The Witloof 
is eaten raw as a salad, and 
also boiled, like the Curled 
Endives. 

Broad-leaved Chicory. 
— This is a very different- 
looking plant from the 
Common Chicory, of which 
it is a variety obtained by 
successive sowings of seeds from selected plants. The leaves are 
broad, very large, undulated, and sometimes crimped, always more 
or less covered with short hairs, and often resembling those of the 
Green Broad-leaved Winter Endive in their form and arrangement. 
When the plant runs to seed, the flowering stems are exactly like 
those of the Common Chicory, so that it is very certain that this 
plant is a variety of it, and not a hybrid between the Common 
Chicory and the Endive, as some persons are inclined to think. 
We should be much more disposed to assign this hybrid origin to 
the Curled-leaved Chicory, described farther on. 

Improved Variegated Chicory. — A form of the preceding 
variety, which has the leaves blotched and striped with red, or, 
in the case of plants grown in the open air, with brown, which 
changes to red if the plants are deprived of light. This very 
bright variegation is very pretty in a salad. 




Broad-leaved Chicory natural size). 



CHICORY, OR SUCCORY 249 

I Curled-leaved Chicory. — This variety is curious from its 
leaves being very finely cut, slashed, and curled. It resembles 
an Endive to a certain extent. There is the more reason for 
supposing it to be a cross between the two species as it is 
extremely variable, the leaves being often nearly smooth, and it 
does not appear to be quite as hardy as the other garden varieties 
of Chicory. 

M. Jacquin, sen., who has made assiduous and successful 
attempts to improve the Common Chicory, succeeded in estab- 
lishing a certain number of varieties. None of them, however, we 
j believe, are now in cultivation. 



CHIVES 

Allium Schoenoprasum, L. Liliacecs. 

French, Ciboulette, Civette. German, Schnittlauch. Flemish and Dutch, Bieslook. 
Italian, Cipollina. Spanish, Cebollino. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A plant growing in thick tufts. 
Bulbs oval, small, scarcely as large as a hazel-nut, forming a com- 
pact mass by the intertangling 
of the fibrous roots ; leaves 
very numerous, slender, and of 
a deep green colour, resembling 
those of a grass, but hollow, 
like those of the Onion ; 
flower-stems very little taller 
than the leaves, bearing small 
terminal clusters of violet-red 
flowers, which are usually 
barren. Chives are always 
propagated by division of the 
tufts. The best time for 
dividing them is in March 
or April. The plants are 
usually grown as an edging. Chives, 
and appear to do better that 

way than when grown in a bed. It is a good plan to take 
them up and replant them every two or three years, as this has 
the effect of freshening up the tufts. The leaves, when wanted 
for table use, are cut with a knife, and seem to grow more 
vigorously the oftener they are cut. They are used for seasoning, 
and are much grown in British gardens, more especially in 
the north. 




250 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



CLARY 

Salvia Sclarea^ 'L,, Labiates. Sauge Sclaree. 

Native of South Europe. — Perennial, but cultivated as an annual 
or a biennial. — An herbaceous plant, with the radical leaves very 
broad, oval-obtuse, broadly sinuated or toothed, woolly haired, 
gray-green, and crimped like the leaves of Savoy Cabbage. Stem 

very tall, quadrangular, 
branching in the upper 
part and bearing long 
spikes of white or lilac 
flowers in clusters of two 
or three ; seed brown or 
marbled, smooth, and 
shining. Their germina- 
ting power lasts for three 
years. The plants do 
not run to seed until the 
second year from the time 
of sowing. After they 
have flowered, it is better 
to pull them up and 
replace them by young 
plants. The seed is sown 
in April, in drills i6 to 
20 in. apart, or in a 
seed-bed, from which the 
seedlings are pricked out 
in May at the same 
distance from one another. During the summer hoeing and 
watering must not be neglected. In August, the first leaves 
may be gathered, and the plants will continue to yield up to 
June or July in the following year. The leaves are used for 
seasoning. 

CORIANDER 

Coriandrum sativum^ L. UmbeUifercB» 

French^ Coriandre. Gerjimn, Coriander. Flemish, and Dittch^ Koriander. ItaliaJt. 
Coriandorlo. Spanish^ Culantro, 

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — Stem branching, 2 to 
over 2\ ft. high ; radical leaves not much divided, with incised- 
toothed leaflets of a rounded shape ; stem leaves very much 
divided, with linear segments ; flowers small, whitish, in umbels. 
Seed generally united in pairs, presenting the appearance of a 
small seed-vessel of the Flax-plant. Each seed is hemisphericalj 




CORIANDER 



251 



slightly concave on the side which joins the other seed, and 
lighter in colour than the outer and convex side, which is 
brown-yellow and marked 
with deep longitudinal 
furrows. Their germi- 
nating power lasts for six 
years. The Coriander 
likes a warm and rather 
light soil. The seed is 
sown in autumn or spring, 
and the crop comes in 
in summer. 

Uses. — The seeds 
form an important article 
of commerce. They are 
used in the manufacture 
of liqueurs, and in a great 
number of culinary pre- 
parations. Some writers 
say the leaves are used for 
seasoning, but this state- 
ment seems odd, as all the green parts of the plant exhale a very 
strong odour of the wood-bug, whence the Greek name of the plant. 

CORN-SALAD. Mdche. 

A great number of kinds of Corn-salad, before running to seed, 
form rosettes of tender edible leaves. The genus Valerianella, to 
which they all belong, is very rich in species, and these are not 
always easily distinguished from one another. They are, for the 
most part, small plants of rapid growth, flowering but once, their 
entire period of cultivation embracing the latter part of one year 
and the early part of the next. They generally run to seed in 
April or May, and the seed, falling to the ground as soon as it is 
ripe, seldom germinates before August. Amongst the most com- 
monly gro>wn kinds are Valerianella olitoria and V. etiocarpa. 

COMMON CORN-SALAD, or LAMB'S-LETTUCE 

Valerianella olitoria^ Moench. ValerianacecB. 

French, Mache commune. German, Feldsalat. Flemish and Dutch, Koornsalad. 
Italian, Erba riccia. Spanish^ Canonigos. Portuguese, Herva benta. 

Native of Europe. — An annual autumnal plant, that is, germi- 
nating from seed in autumn and flowering and seeding in the 
ensuing spring. — Radical leaves sessile, of an elongated spoon- 
shape, and of a slightly gray-green colour, with rather strongly 




Coriander. 



252 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



marked veins, and growing in pairs, placed cross-wise over one 
another, and forming a rather dense rosette ; stem angular, entirely 
herbaceous, forking several times, and bearing very small bluish 
white flowers, in terminal clusters at the extremities of the 
branches ; seed almost globular, slightly compressed, and gray in 
colour. Their germinating power lasts for five years. This is one 
of the commonest native plants, especially in cultivated ground, 
and in some countries large quantities of it are gathered amongst 
the growing crops of winter and spring wheat. The wild form, 
however, is now seldom used for kitchen-garden culture, and is 
only gathered where it is found growing naturally, having been 
superseded in- cultivation by the improved kinds which we are 
about to describe. 

Culture. — The seed is sown at the end of summer, or in 
autumn, in any kind of soil, and the plant produces leaves from 
October to spring, without requiring any attention or protection. 
Generally, small thick-set plants are preferred to those of coarser 
growth, the leaves of which become too large and long. Contrary 
to what is experienced in the case of most other cultivated plants, 
seeds of the Corn-salad sown the same year in which they ripened 
do not germinate so soon or so well as those which are kept for a 
year before they are sown. 



This plant is grown to some ex- 
tent by the London market-gardeners. 
The seed is sown for succession crops 
from August to October, the result 
being a supply from October till 
spring. There are two kinds gro\vn 
— the Round and the Regence ; the 
former is considered the best for 
winter use, but it runs to seed earlier 
in spring than the latter kind, there- 
fore the Regence is sown in October 
for a supply after the Round kind 
has run to seed. The land on which 
the seed is sown is of a rich character, 
and in many cases it is sow^n broad- 
cast among w^inter Onions or some 
similar crop for which the land has 
been liberally manured and other- 
wise well prepared. No more pre- 
paration is needed beyond raking the 
surface before and after the seed is 
sown. In gathering, the plants are 
pulled up by their roots, washed, and 
sold in small punnets. Most growers 
save their own seed. For this pur- 



pose a bed is specially prepared, 
levelled, and made fine on the 
surface, after which it is rolled 
or otherwise pressed down firmly. 
Good plants from the general sowing 
are then selected and planted thickly, 
and the bed is afterwards kept free 
from weeds. In summer the seed 
which ripens is allowed to fall on 
the bed, after which the old plants 
are pulled up and the seed is care- 
fully swept off the hard surface 
and placed in water to separate 
it from the soil, w^hich ^nks to the 
bottom. The seed is then dried 
gradually in the sun and put in 
bags in a dry place, and under 
such conditions it will retain its 
vitality perfectly for several years. 
Corn-salad is not considered of 
itself a paying crop, but when sown 
amongst other crops it takes up but 
little room, and therefore in such 
cases may be considered to be fairly 
remunerative. 



COMMON CORN-SALAD, OR LAMB'S-LETTUCE 253 




Round-leaved Corn-salad (| natural size). 



Uses. — The whole of the plant is used as a salad, and an 
excellent and distinct salad it is, far too little used in England. 
This forms with the outer 
stalks of Celery one of the 
best mixed salads. 

Round - leaved Corn- 
salad. — A very distinct 
variety, differing from the 
Common kind in having 
much shorter leaves, which 
are narrow at the base and 
widen upwards into an oval, 
almost roundedjblade. They 
also stand half-erect, instead 
of spreading on the ground, 
like those of the Common 
kind, and are lighter green 
in colour, with the veins 
much less marked. The 
plant is productive and of rapid growth, and is the kind which 
is almost exclusively grown by the m.arket-gardeners around Paris. 
When sown in good soil in August, and kept carefully free from 

weeds, it is wonderfully 
productive. 

Large-seeded Corn- 
salad. — A strong-grow- 
ing kind, differing from 
the Common Corn-salad 
in the greater size of 
the plant, and also of 
the seed, which is nearly 
twice as large as that 
of the other kind. The 
leaves, like those of the 
Common kind, are com- 
paratively narrow for 
their length, and are 
slightly gray-green, and 
marked with numerous 
secondary veins. This 
variety is very much 
grown in Holland and 
Germany. 

Golden Corn-salad. 
— This variety probably sprang from the Round-leaved Corn-salad, 
which it resembles in size and habit, but differs from it in the 




Large-seeded Corn-salad. 



254 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Etampes Corn-salad (| natural size). 



colour of the leaves, which are very light green with a pronounced 
golden tinge on the parts exposed to the light. The leaves are 

oval, broad, and very smooth. It 
is used for salads, and when mixed 
with the dark green varieties makes 
a pleasant contrast. 

Etampes Corn-salad. — This 
variety is especially characterised 
by the extremely dark colour of 
its leaves, which, like those of the 
Common kind, are rather narrow 
and marked very perceptibly with 
veins ; they are also often undu- 
lated or folded back at the edges. 
The whole plant forms a rosette 
somewhat more compact and stiff 
than of the Common kind, and 
the leaves are rather thicker and more fleshy than those of the 
other varieties. They bear cold weather remarkably well, and 
they have the advantage of losing their freshness less than those 
of any other kind while they are being brought to market — a 
valuable quality in plants which have sometimes to be sent to 
markets at a considerable 
distance. 

Cabbaging Corn- 
salad. — A very distinct 
variety, with short,rounded, 
smooth, half-erect, stiff, 
and intensely green leaves, 
the veins of which are 
hardly visible. It forms 
a compact rosette, the 
heart of which is full and 
firm. It is, to all appear- 
ance, a less productive 
kind than the Round- 
leaved variety, but firmer, 
more compact, and much 
more agreeable to the 
taste in a salad. Like 
the preceding variety, it 
bears carriage well. 

This is undoubtedly 
the same variety as that 
which was grown some years past under the name of Chevreuse 
Smooth-leaved Green Corn-salad. 




Cabbaging Corn-salad. 



ITALIAN CORN-SALAD 



255 



ITALIAN CORN-SALAD 

Valerianella eriocarpa^ Desf. Mdche d'ltalie^ R^gence. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — This species is easily 
distinguished from the Common Corn-salad and its varieties by 
the much lighter colour 
and greater length of its 
leaves, which are slightly 
hairy, and somewhat 
-toothed on the edges to- 
wards the base. Seeds 
more or less pale brown, 
flattened, convex on one 
side and hollowed out on 
the other into a deep 
channel, and surmounted 
by a sort of collar shaped 
like a twisted paper bag. 
Their germinating power 
lasts for four years. This 

variety is thought very Italian Corn-salad (i natural size). 

highly of in the south of 

Europe, where it does not run to seed so soon as the Common 
kind, but in the neighbourhood of Paris it has the drawback of 
being somewhat sensitive to cold. Its culture and uses are exactly 
the same as those of the Common variety. 





Lettuce-leaved Italian Corn-salad, 



Lettuce-leaved Italian Corn-salad. — Leaves spreading on 
the ground, broad, rounded, and a very peculiar golden tint. The 



256 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



plant is larger and stouter than the ordinary Italian Corn-salad, 
and more suitable for southern than for northern climates. 

Varieties of Corn- 
salad with variegated 
leaves have often been 
highly spoken of, but 
none of them have ever 
appeared to us to equal 
the good varieties of 
the green-leaved kinds. 
Variegation, as a rule, 
does not add to the value 
of a table vegetable, and 
it is almost always a sign 
of weakness of growth. 
Of these variegated kinds, 
one has leaves marbled 
with white, and another 
has the heart and the 
base of the central leaves 
of a bright yellow colour. 
These variegations, be- 
coming; more intense 




Spoon-leaved Corn-salad. 



'to" 

,^ more 
hue after the first touch 



of frosty weather, have rather a pretty effect. 

The Spoon-leaved Corn-salad, now nearly superseded by the 
Cabbaging Corn- salad, was distinguished mostly by its leaves 
being hollowed in the shape of a spoon or hood. 



CRESS, or GARDEN CRESS 

Lepidium sativum, L. Cruciferce, 



French, Cresson alenois. German, Garten-Kresse. Flemish, Hofkers. Dutch, Tuinkers. 
Danish, Havekarse. Italian, Agretto. Spanish, Mastuerzo. Portuguese, Mastru90. 

Native of Persia. — An annual plant of very rapid growth. — The 
pungent flavour of its leaves has caused it to be used as a con- 
diment from time immemorial, and its culture is so easy that it 
finds a place in the humblest kitchen-garden. The radical leaves 
are very much divided and very numerous, forming a straggling 
rosette, from the centre of which soon rises a smooth branching 
stem furnished with a few almost linear leaves. The flowers are 
white, small, and four-petalled, and are succeeded by roundish pods, 
which are very much flattened and slightly concave. The seeds 
are comparatively large, furrowed, oblong, and of a brick-red colour ; 



CRESS, OR GARDEN CRESS 257 

they have a biting taste and a garlicky flavour. Their germinating 
power lasts for five years. 

Culture. — There is no plant more easy to grow than this. It 
may be sown at any time and in any kind of soil, with the certainty 
of having leaves fit to cut in a few weeks ; only, during very hot 
weather, it is best to sow in a moist and shaded position, in order 
to obtain more tender and more abundant leaves. In summer it 
is a good plan to make successional sowings, as the plants run very 
quickly to seed. The seed germinates with very great rapidity. 
In a temperature of 10° to 15" Centigrade (or 50° to 60° Fahrenheit) 
it usually germinates in less than twenty-four hours. This rapid 
growth is sometimes utilised for the purpose of furnishing rooms 
with verdant foliage in winter, and to do this it is sufficient to 
sprinkle Cress-seed plentifully on wet moss or sand, or on a vase 
or anything else covered with wet moss or moist clay, and in a few 
days a mass of verdure will be produced, which has a very pleasing 
effect. 

In the London market-gardens he then deftly takes the cut material 
Cress is grown to a large extent, up with both hands and places it 
along with Mustard, in beds made in an upright position in the pun- 
on the floors of vineries, a portion net. So precisely do practised hands 
being sown and a portion cut every perform this work, that one would 
other day. During February and almost imagine the Mustard and 
March the floors of such Vineries Cress had been sown in the punnets, 
remind one of a verdant pasture, so During January, February, and 
green and so healthy do the crops March, Mustard and Cress fetch 
of Cress and Mustard in various from 2s. to 45. per dozen punnets, 
stages of growth appear. After sow- but later on they become much 
ing, a good watering is given, and cheaper. Rape is often sold for 
the beds are covered with mats until Mustard. It is mild in flavour 
the seeds have germinated, when and, perhaps, equally wholesome; 
they are immediately removed. The it is also stifl"er, and keeps longer 
Mustard and Cress are cut when in good condition in a cut state 
they attain a height of ij to 2 in., than Mustard. On hot -beds out-of- 
a long-bladed knife with a crooked doors, in temporary frames, and in 
handle being used for the purpose, warm moist borders, Mustard and 
With this implement in one hand Cress are grown in enormous quan- 
the operator cuts as much at a time titles, some using as much as 500 
as he can hold with the other, which bushels of seed in one season! — 
is about as much as will fill a punnet; C. W. S. 

Uses. — The radical leaves are much used as a condiment, and 
for garnishing dishes, especially of roast meat. They are also used 
for side-dishes and in salads. 

Common Garden Cress. — This form, which is most commonly 
grown, is a decided improvement on the wild plant. The leaves 
are larger, of a deeper green colour, and more abundantly 
produced. 



17 



258 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Curled, or Normandy, Garden Cress. — In this variety the 
divisions of the leaves are finer and more numerous than in the 




Common Cress. Curled Cress. 



Common kind ; they are also curled and more or less twisted on 
themselves, which gives the foliage a very pleasing appearance. 

Extra Curled Dwarf Garden Cress.— A distinct kind, of 
compact growth, with leaves cut to the midrib forming lobes toothed 

and curled at the edges. By this 
and its greater pungency it may 
easily be told from the other 
varieties. 




Extra Curled Dwarf Cress 



Broad-leaved Cress. 



Broad-leaved Garden Cress. — This variety differs from the 
type in having the blade of the leaf entire, without any divisions 



CRESS, OR GARDEN CRESS 



259 



and merely notched here and there on the edges. The leaves 
are oval in shape, about 2 in. long, and about i in. broad. They 
have slender stalks and a somewhat irregular outline. 

Golden, or Australian, Garden Cress.— This might be taken 
for a sub-variety of the Large-leaved Garden Cress, as the leaves 
are similar in shape and only differ in their colour, which is a pale 
yellowish green, and always so marked that it strikes even the most 
unpractised eye at once. These two varieties differ so much in the 
appearance of their leaves from the Common Garden Cress, that 
any one seeing them growing side by side before flowering might 
think they were plants of quite different species. 

4 

WATER-CRESS 

Nasturthnn officinale ^ R. Br. CrucifercB. 

French, Cresson de fontaine, C. de ruisseau, Sante du corps. Ger?nan, Brunnenkresse. 
Flemish and Dutch, Waterkers. Danish, Brondkarsen. Italian, Nasturzio acquatico, 
Crescione di fontana. Spanish, Berro de agua. Portuguese, Agroiao d'agua. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — An aquatic plant, with long 
stems, which readily take root, and which even send out into 
the water white rootlets 
serving to supply the 
plant with nutriment. 
Leaves compound, with 
rounded divisions, slightly 
sinuated, and of a dark 
green colour ; flowers 
small, white, in terminal 
spikes ; seeds usually few, 
very fine, in slightly 
curved siliques or pods. 
Their germinating power 
lasts for five years. 

Culture.— The plea- 
sant and pungent flavour 
of the Watercress, and 
also its well - known 
hygienic properties, have 

from time immemorial Water-cress (i natural size). 

caused it to be highly 

esteemed for table use. The preference which the plant exhibits 
for moist positions and even running streams renders the cultiva- 
tion of it rather difficult, so that most people are content to gather 
it where it grows naturally in brooks, ditches, or springs. In the 
neighbourhood of some large towns, however, it is cultivated 




26o 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



systematically, and usually very profitably. For this purpose 
a portion of a meadow or pasture field is selected which has 
a clear stream or rivulet running by or through it, and across 
this portion, from one side to the other, a number of large 
trenches are excavated. These are from about i6 to 20 ft. wide, 
and about 13 ft. distant from one another, and are so arranged 
that the water may run from one to another. This is managed 
by having a slight difference in the level of the trenches, so that 
tlie water may run out of each of them at the end opposite to 
that at which it flowed in. Thus the water does not finally leave 
the trenches until it has made a long serpentine course through all 
of them. After the soil at the bottom of the trenches has been 
properly dug and manured, the finest and strongest stems that can 
be selected are pricked in with a dibble. The water is then let into 
the trenches— just so much for a week or two as will cover the 
cuttings — and the plants are not interfered with until they have 
grown strong enough to allow the leaves to be gathered without 
injury. After the plants are well established, and growing 
vigorously, the leaves may be gathered all through the year, except 
in very frosty weather, when the trenches should be flooded and 
entirely submerged for the protection of the plants. 

Some growers plant the cuttings in a specially prepared ditch, 
allowing t<he water to rise as the plants grow in length. When the 
plants have grown 4^ to 7 in. in height, they are pulled up care- 
fully with their roots and dropped singly into other trenches that 
have been filled with water to about one-half their depth, some 
well-decayed cow-manure being also dropped in at frequent 
intervals. The plants, carried by the flowing water, collect at the 
lower end of the ditch in close touch with the manure, when they 
soon start into luxuriant growth. The water is then at its normal 
height. 

In many cases sowing the seed will be found the best means of 
propagation. The bottom of a small shallow trench is carefully 
prepared for receiving the seed, which, being very small, is mixed 
with some dry earth or sand sown broadcast and sHghtly raked in. 
The soil is then cautiously watered and kept moist until the plants 
show their first leaves, when the water is let in, but only so much 
as will barely cover the plants. When a few inches high, the plants 
are pulled up in small tufts and planted in other trenches, into 
which water is admitted and kept steadily on a level with the tops 
of the plants, until the ditch is completely filled. 

Plantations of the same kind, on a smaller scale, might be made 
anywhere where there is a sufficient supply of pure freshwater. It 
is not even absolutely necessary that it should be running water, if 
it can be renewed often enough to keep it clear and pure. Water- 
cress has been grown almost without water, by planting it in tubs 



WATER-CRESS 



261 



half-filled with good soil and kept in a moist, shaded position, under 
which circumstances occasional waterings will suffice for the growth 
of the plants. This mode of culture, however, has its drawbacks, 
and all who attempt it are not equally successful. 



Water-cress is said to have grown 
in a wild state on the banks of 
the Thames and other places near 
London for many years before its 
culture for market was attempted 
on anything like an extensive scale, 
and there being then little demand 
for it, the supplies from these quar- 
ters were sufficient ; but as it gained 
popularity in France, Prussia, and 
elsewhere, so the demand for it in 
London also increased, and beds for 
its culture were formed at Spring- 
head and Northfleet, near Gravesend, 
as far back as the beginning of 
the nineteenth century. Springhead 
Cress is still noted for its superior 
quality. Large supplies are now 
obtained from Waltham, Cheshunt, 
and other low-lying places near the 
Great Eastern Railway, and the 
annual amount lealised by 
growers for London alone 
is very great. The space 
at Springhead allotted to 
Water - cress culture is 
about three acres in ex- 
tent, and consists of a 
winding ditch varying in 
width from 6 to 20 ft. 
The supply of water is 
furnished by numberless 
springs of fresh clear 
water, which bubble out 
near the banks of the 
stream in various places. 
The water contains a 
good deal of iron, and 
on the sides of the Cress- 
beds, where it is some- 
what stagnant, the Cress 
assumes a less healthy 
colour than that in the 
middle of the stream. 
The Cress-beds at 



Springhead he in a warm sheltered 
valley ; the sloping banks on both 
sides of the stream, which appear 
to be exceedingly fertile, are 
covered with fruit-trees, such as 
Apples, Plums, etc. The Water- 
cress is replanted yearly, generally 
in August and September, and some- 
times in spring. Tufts of the roots 
are taken up and pulled apart, and 
planted in rows about i ft. apart, 
after which they are trodden or 
rolled down, with a view to induce 
the roots to take quickly. The 
water is just deep enough to cover 
the roots, and when fully grown the 
young shoots in summer form a 
miniature meadow of Watercress. 
Cutting is done three times a week, 
as much being cut at a time as the 
markets require. 




proved Broad-leaved Water-cress. 



262 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Uses. — The Water-cress is such a well-known plant that a 
description of its uses is almost superfluous. At Paris, where the 
market is always very abundantly supplied with it, it is used for 
garnishing, in salads, and sometimes also boiled and minced, like 
Spinach. Serving fresh good Cress in liberal quantities with 
broiled meat or roast fowl should be more general in England. 

Improved Broad-leaved Water-cress. — For some years past 
this variety has been a favourite in the Paris markets. The culture 
and uses are exactly the same as those of the Common Water-cress, 
but the leaves are much larger, more tender, and more pungent. 

AMERICAN, or BELLE-ISLE, CRESS 

Barbarea prcecox, R. Br. Erysimum prcecox, L. CrucifercE. 

French, Cresson de terre. German, Amerikanische Winterkresse. Flemish, Wilde kers. 

Danish, Winterkarse. 

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — The leaves of this plant have 
some resemblance to those of the Water-cress, but the plant itself 

always grows on the dry 
land. If sown in spring, it 
forms during the summer 
a tolerably full rosette of 
compound leaves of a dark 
and very glistening green 
colour. In the following 
spring the flower -stems 
make their appearance, and 
bear rather long spikes of 
bright yellow flowers, which 
are succeeded by slender 
siliques or pods, containing 
small, gray, rough-skinned 
seeds, slightly flattened on 
one side and round on the 
other. Their germinating power lasts for three years. 

Culture. — This is extremely simple and easy. The seed 
may be sown during the whole of the spring, summer, and 
autumn, in any kind of garden soil, and successional sowings 
are unnecessary, as there is no fear of the plants running to seed 
too soon. On the other hand, if the plant is easily grown, its 
produce is not so valuable as that of the Water-cress or the Common 
Garden Cress, as the leaves are always hard, and their pungent 
flavour is accompanied with a certain amount of acidity. The 
radical leaves are used for seasoning and garnishing. 

The Winter Cress of English gardens is Barbarea vulgaris, 
R. Br. {Erysiinum Barbarea, L.). Its culture and uses are precisely 
the same as those of the American CresSc 




American, or Belle-Isle, Cress (i natural size). 



MEADOW-CRESS 



263 



MEADOW-CRESS 

Cardamine pratensis, L. CrucifercB. 

French^ Cresson des pres. German, Wiesenkresse. Spanish, Berros de prado. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A wild plant, common in moist 
meadows and on the banks of rivers, etc. Leaves pinnate, some- 
what like those of the Water-cress, but far less fleshy and often 
tinged with violet-brown ; stem erect, furnished with a few leaves 
cut into linear divisions ; flowers of fair size, rose-coloured or pale 
lilac, opening very early in spring ; seed small, oblong, irregular in 
shape, and brown. Their germinating power lasts for four years. 
This plant is not of much value as a table vegetable. There is, 
however, a double-flowered variety which, with its clusters of pale 
lilac blossoms, is pretty in gardens when winter has just ended. 
The leaves have a biting and pungent taste. 

parA cress 

• Spilanthes oleracea, L. Composites. 

French, Cresson de Para. German, Hussarenknopf, Flemish, ABC kruid. 

Native of the West Indies. — Annual. — An almost creeping 
plant, with entire oval leaves, which are truncate at the base. 
Flowers in conical heads, 
without petals, and of a 
yellow colour, borne on 
the top of the stem ; seed 
very small, oval, flat, 
grayish, and covered with 
small round prominences. 
Their germinating power 
lasts for at least five years. 
The seed is sown, in the 
place where the crop is 
to grow, in March or 
April. The plants com- 
mence to flower in about 
two months afterwards, 
and continue to bloom all 
through the summer. In 
hot weather they require 
to be watered plentifully. 

Uses. — The leaves Brazil Cress a natural size). 

mixed with salads impart 

a pungent flavour, and have the effect of stimulating the action oi 
the salivary glands. This use of them is not common, and the plant 
belongs to the province of pharmacy rather than the kitchen garden. 





THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Brazil Cress.— This plant appears to differ from the Para Cress 
only in the brown tint of its stems and leaves, which also extends 
to the upper part of the flower-heads. The culture and uses of the 
two plants are exactly the same. 

CUCUMBER 

Cjicumis sativus, L. Cucurbitacece. 

French^ Concombre. Gennait, Gurke. Flemish and Dutch. Komkommer. Danish, 
Ajurken. Itaiian, Cetriulo. Spanish, Cohombro. Portuguese, Pepino. 

Native of the East Indies. — Annual. — A creeping plant, with 
herbaceous stems, flexible, angular from the first, rough to the 
touch, and furnished with tendrils. Leaves alternate, placed 
opposite the tendrils, angular heart-shaped, bluntly toothed, rough 
like the stem, dark green on the upper surface and gray underneath. 
Flowers axillar}-, on short stalks, more or less green-yellow, some 
male, others female, the latter placed on the top of the ovary, which 
becomes the fruit, and which is of some size before the flower opens 
on it. The plant continues to produce flowers in succession for a 
long time, and the intervention of insects or of man seems to be 
necessary to fertilise them. The fruit is oblong and more or less 
cylindrical, smooth, or bearing protuberances which end in a hard 
spine ; flesh abundant and watery. Seed yellow-white, very flat, 
long oval, enclosed in three longitudinal compartments, which are 
filled with a pulpy substance, and are nearly as long as the fruit 
itself. Their germinating power seldom declines before the tenth 
year. 



Culture. — The Cucumber is 
grown extensively in almost all 
parts of the world, and in warm 
countries is brought to perfection 
without the aid of artificial heat. 
In Great Britain, however, the case 
is different ; and in order to secure 
a good supply of Cucumbers, even 
during the warmest seasons of the 
year, artificial heat is indispensable. 
Cucumbers are grown in a variety of 
ways — as in houses, pits, frames, etc., 
and occasionally out-of-doors. The 
best mode of culture is that of 
growing them in houses, which, if 
properly constructed, will yield a 
supply at all seasons of the year. 
Propagation is effected by seeds and 
cuttings. The best kind of house is 



that with a span roof, a pathway 
running through the centre, and a 
bed on each side. The size of the 
house must depend upon the 
demand. Small houses are, how- 
ever, best for Cucumber-growing ; 
and if two can be used for them 
and Melons alternately, it will be 
found much more convenient than 
having one large house. A house 
entirely devoted to Cucumber- 
growing all the year round must 
necessarily be larger than when it is 
only used for winter or spring crops 
— inasmuch as, having to keep up a 
continuous succession, fresh planta- 
tions must be constantly made ; 
therefore the best kind of house is 
that with a bed on each side, as 



CUCUMBER 



265 



before mentioned, planting the beds 
alternately as each set of plants 
becomes exhausted. A span-roofed 
house, from 15 to 20 ft. long and 
10 or 12 ft. wide, will, if properly 
managed, afford a sufficient supply 
for most private establishments, un- 
less they are very extensive. Houses 
with comparatively low-pitched roofs 
generally yield the best results, with 
least trouble from scorching or red 
spider. They should be built high 
enough to allow of head-room, but 
not higher than is really necessary, 
as low, close houses are most suit- 
able. Heat produced by hot-water 
pipes is decidedly the best for giving 
warmth, as it is of a more humid 
nature than that produced by flues. 
There should always be sufficient 
piping to keep up the required 
temperature without being obliged 
to make the pipes intensely hot — 
the latter being productive of many 
evil results, such as scalding, red 
spider, etc. Evaporating pans, 
placed over the pipes, are of great 
assistance in keeping the atmo- 
sphere of the house in a moist 
state. Cucumbers may be success- 
fully grown in low lean-to houses^ 
with no other glass than that of the 
roof — the heat being supplied by 
means of a brick flue running round 
the house, and a stage consisting of 
rough wooden slabs or planks, sup- 
ported upon brick piers or w^ooden 
posts, erected over the flue along 
the front of the house. The stage 
should be 35 ft. from the glass, which 
will allow for 18 in. of soil, and 
12 in. for the plants to grow before 
reaching the trellis, supposing the 
trellis to be 12 in. from the glass. 
If the front of the stage be boarded 
up, a good bottom-heat may be 
secured. 

Bottom heat is considered by 
many to be indispensable m Cucum- 
ber-growing; this, however, has 



been proved to be a mistake, and 
we have often seen the best Cucum- 
bers grown w^ithout it. That plants 
are benefited to a great extent by 
the use of bottom heat judiciously 
applied, we do not for a moment 
dispute ; but still it is not absolutely 
necessary, except in the case of early 
Cucumbers grown in pits and frames. 
Where, however, it is applied, it 
must be done with judgment, for 
there are often crops of Cucumbers 
ruined by an excessive bottom heat. 
Stable manure is frequently used to 
supply bottom heat to Cucumbers ; 
and where it can be properly regu> 
lated it is the best. As the heat 
gradually declines, the roots descend 
into the decaying manure and draw 
therefrom a vast amount of nourish- 
ment to support the heavy crops of 
fruit they carry. A considerable 
amount of labour in root-watering 
is also saved. In private gardens 
hot water is much cleaner and per- 
haps gives less trouble, and where 
the pipes are laid in a tank, and the 
tank at intervals supplied with 
liquid manure, good results can be 
obtained. 

\VlNTER AND SPRING CUCUMBERS. 

— For this crop many cultivators 
obtain plants by means of cuttings, 
with the view of getting fruit quicker 
than from those raised from seed. 
There can be no doubt that if cut- 
tings be put in at the same time as 
seeds, the cuttings will make plants 
capable of bearing fruit earlier : but 
they will not continue in a bearing 
condition so long, nor produce such 
good fruit, as healthy seedling plants. 
Where any particular kind is grown, 
and it is desirable to keep it true, 
propagation by cuttings is the only 
sure way of attaining that object ; 
but as a rule seedling plants are the 
best. Where, however, cuttings are 
preferred, they should be put in 
about ten or twelve days before they- 



266 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



are required to be planted out. The 
best way is to stop the plants from 
which the cuttings are to be taken 
a week or two previously ; they will 
then send out side-shoots, which 
should be taken off with a joint of 
the older wood attached to them, 
and inserted singly in small pots 
well drained and filled with a com- 
post of leaf-mould, loam, and sand, 
in equal parts. If inserted close' to 
the side of the pot, they will strike 
sooner than if placed in the centre. 
The pots should then be plunged in 
a bottom heat of 70°, have a hand- 
light or bell-glass placed over them, 
and be shaded from the sun ; and if 
kept well watered and sprinkled 
overhead, they will be sufficiently 
rooted in a few days to allow of the 
hand-lights being taken off ; thus 
the plants will be gradually inured 
to the light and sun, which treat- 
ment will effectually prevent them 
from becoming drawn. If the plants 
be likely to become pot-bound before 
the bed is ready to receive them, 
they should be shifted into larger 
pots, otherwise they will be materially 
injured. In order to obtain a good 
supply of Cucumbers during the 
winter and spring, it is necessary to 
sow sufficiently early to allow of the 
plants becoming strong and in a 
fruit-bearing condition before the 
short dark days arrive ; strong plants 
should therefore be in readiness for 
putting out not later than the end 
of September. If plants be obtained 
from cuttings, they will require to be 
put in the second or third week in 
that month ; if from seed, a week or 
ten days earlier. 

Many cultivators soak their Cu- 
cumber seeds in water for a few 
hours previously to sowing ; and in 
the case of old or very dry seeds it 
is an excellent plan, inasmuch as it 
softens the seeds and causes them 
to germinate quicker than they 



otherwise would. There are various 
methods of sowing : some growers 
sow single seeds in small pots, and 
thence turn them out into the beds ; 
others sow a quantity of seed thickly 
in pans or large pots, and transplant 
them. We have found it a very 
excellent plan to put two or three 
seeds into 48-sized pots half filled 
with light leaf-mould and sand, just 
covering the seeds, and when they 
are up select the strongest of the 
plants to remain, and pinch the 
others out. By the time the remain- 
ing plants have made a pair of 
rough leaves, roots will frequently 
be seen pushing from the bases of 
the stems. The pots should then 
be filled up with soil to within half 
an inch of the rim, into which their 
roots will quickly penetrate, and 
thereby strengthen the plants, and 
afford them more room to grow 
without disturbing the roots, as 
would be the case in re-potting or 
transplanting. In whatever way 
they may be sown, they should, if 
possible, be placed in a gentle 
bottom heat, and kept moderately 
moist until they are up, when they 
must be placed near the glass, or 
where they can obtain plenty of 
light and sun, in order to keep them 
dwarf and stocky. Whilst the 
plants are becoming established the 
bed should be prepared for plant- 
ing, bottom heat being provided by 
means of hot-water pipes or ferment- 
ing material. A layer of good thick 
turves should be laid on the bottom 
of the bed, grassy side downwards ; 
upon this lay the soil in a ridge 
along the centre of the bed, and 
when it is sufficiently warm the 
plants may be turned out into it 
2 ft. apart, planting them i or 2 in. 
deeper than they were in the pots, and 
afterwards watering them copiously 
with tepid water. A good brisk 
heat should be kept up until the 



CUCUMBER 



267 



plants get well established in the 
beds — say 65° by night and 70° by 
day, allowing the glass to rise 10° 
higher by sun-heat, with a bottom- 
heat of 65° to 70°. After the plants 
begin to root freely into the soil in 
the bed, air should be admitted in the 
morning on every favourable oppor- 
tunity, closing early in the afternoon 
in order to secure all the sun-heat 
possible. No more fire-heat than is 
absolutely necessary to keep up the 
required temperature should be used, 
inasmuch as all plants thrive much 
better under the influence of solar 
than of artificial heat. The sub- 
sequent treatment consists of train- 
ing the leaders of the plants up the 
wires and stopping them when they 
reach the top. This will cause 
them to send out side-shoots all the 
way up the stem, which shoots 
should also be stopped at the second 
or third joint; these shoots always 
show fruit, but only one or two 
should be left on each plant at first, 
and more as the plants get older 
and stronger. The stopping of the 
shoots must be continued at every 
second or third joint from the last 
pinch, and also thinned out when 
needful. Crowding of the wood 
and foliage should always be 
avoided. , The object of planting 
2 ft. apart at first is only to secure 
a good crop of Cucumbers early by 
taking one or two fruits off each 
plant as soon as possible ; but this 
space is too little ultimately for each 
plant, and when it becomes neces- 
sary, every alternate plant may be 
removed to give the others more 
room. Watering must be attended 
to regularly. The bed should be 
kept moist, and when water is given 
it should be a thorough soaking till 
it runs out at the bottom of the 
bed, and should always be of the 
same temperature as that of the soil. 
Syringing in the morning and after- 



noon must also be attended to, 
and more or less air should be ad- 
mitted according to the state of the 
weather. The roots should be top- 
dressed every two or three weeks 
with a little fresh soil. If these 
simple directions be carried out, a 
supply of Cucumbers during the 
winter and spring will not be found 
a difficult matter. The Cucumber 
is an easy plant to grow ; unlike the 
Melon, the fruit is not wanted ripe, 
but only when half swelled ; and 
the way to obtain it is to keep the 
plants in a healthy growing state. 

Cucumbers in Pits and Frames. 
— Where hot-water pits are employed 
for growing winter Cucumbers, it is 
a good plan to apply a thick lining 
of fermenting material round the 
pit ; also a covering of mats or other 
warm material over the glass during 
the night ; by these means less fire- 
heat will be required, and the plants 
consequently kept in a healthier con- 
dition. To train Cucumbers, pieces 
of wire trellis-work should be fitted 
in each light about i ft. from the 
glass, the bed containing the plants 
being about 8 or 9 in. below this, 
which will afford greater facility for 
applying top-dressing; whereas if 
the ordinary mode of pegging down 
be adopted, top-dressing cannot be 
given without injury to the foliage. 
The greatest objection to pits for 
winter Cucumbers is the incon= 
venience of attending to the plants 
in severe weather ; and plants are 
frequently allowed to run wild and 
get dry at the roots, in consequence 
of not being able to take off" the 
lights when there is a continuance 
of frosty weather. Where there is 
no other convenience for growing 
Cucumbers in winter, a few plants 
may be put into large pots and 
placed in the corners of a warm 
house, such as a Pine or plant stove. 
The pots should be well drained and 



268 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



filled three parts full of compost, 
adding a little at a time, as the 
plants require it, until the pots are 
full. Plenty of water must be given 
them, without causing the soil to 
become sodden, and when they are 
in bearing, occasional soakings of 
manure-water will be beneficial in 
keeping them in a healthy state. 

Summer and Autumn Cucum- 
bers. — Plants put out in September 
will, if properly treated, continue in 
bearing until May or June; there- 
fore, to have plants ready to succeed 
them, a sowing should be made 
early in April, and grown either in 
houses, pits, or hot-beds, whichever 
is at hand ; these will generally con- 
tinue in bearing until August, by 
which time plants that have been 
put out in cold frames, such as those 
in which Potatoes have been grown, 
will be in bearing, and these, if 
liberally treated, will give a supply 
far into the autumn. They will, 
however, require to have linings 
applied, and be covered up at night 
when the cold nights set in. If 
thus treated they will last until late 
in October, by which time those 
planted for winter will be progress- 
ing towards fruit-bearing. Where a 
hot-water pit can be spared, a few 
plants may be put out in July or 
August, to give supplies during the 
early part of the winter. 

Growing Cucumbers on Hot- 
beds. — Though hot-beds have been 
superseded to a great extent by hot- 
water pipes, they still occupy a place 
in gardens, especially in those of 
moderate extent, and are often 
very serviceable as Cucumber and 
propagating frames combined. A 
moderate and steady temperature is 
what is required, and this can be 
secured in a well-made hot-bed for 
six months. The materials required 
for a lasting hot-bed are stable Htter 
and leaves in equal quantities; in 



the absence of leaves, use half- 
decayed hot-bed manure, refuse 
turf-choppings, or any other mate- 
rials likely to moderate the fermenta- 
tion of the stable litter — a material 
to be had in most establishments. 

The first consideration is the 
choice of a site for the bed, which 
should always be in a dry and shel- 
tered situation. Nothing extracts 
heat so rapidly as cold winds ; in- 
deed, where a hot-bed is made up 
annually, it is better to have it 
sunk two-thirds in the ground. It 
would be preferable, in fact, to 
have it wholly in the ground, but as 
the bed will settle down at least 
one-third of its height during the 
summer, the frame would get below 
the ground-line, which would be in- 
convenient. For a frame 9 by 5 ft. 
the pit would require to be 14 ft. 
long and 10 ft. wide; and if the bed 
were intended to last eight or nine 
months it should be quite 4 ft. deep — 
which, allowing one-third of the bed 
to be above ground, would give a 
total depth of 6 ft. of fermenting 
material. If the pit be double- 
boarded with strong rough deal, so 
as to form a 2-in. cavity all round 
between the earth and the sides of 
the bed, the heat will last a consider- 
able time longer, as the cavity pre- 
vents the bed from being robbed of 
its heat by the cold earth. Another 
advantage of having a pit for the 
bed is that the latter is made with 
greater facility, for it requires a 
skilled hand to build up a compact 
and permanent hot-bed on the sur- 
face of the ground. Whatever kind 
of site is chosen, the next step is 
to have the materials placed con- 
veniently near. These may be 
thrown roughly together the first 
time, sprinkling plenty of water 
upon them if they be at all dry. 
In a week or ten days the heap 
will usually be found to be heating 



CUCUMBER 



269 



violently, when it should be turned 
over again, taking care to mix the 
litter thoroughly, adding more water 
if required. A week or so later it 
will want another turning, which as 
a rule ought to be sufficient to bring 
it into a fit condition for making up 
into a bed, even though it be heating 
strongly, for the temperature will 
subside a good deal after the mate- 
rials are well trodden down. Where 
the hot-bed is the only accommoda- 
tion, the seed, of course, cannot be 
sown till the bed is ready; but where 
there is a hothouse or pit, it is by 
far the best to sow the seed about 
the time the first preparations are 
made for making the bed; and when 
the bed is ready the plants will be 
strong and fit for planting. The 
seed may be sown in small pots, well 
drained, and the seeds covered with 
about 5 in. of fine soil, and the pots, 
if possible, plunged in a bottom heat 
of 75° or 80°, with a moist atmo- 
spheric heat of from 65"^ to 70° at 
night, and 75° to 80° by day. The 
seeds should not be watered for a 
day or two after planting, when they 
should be well soaked ; and from 
this time forward the soil about the 
roots of the plants should never be 
allowed to get dry, nor wet enough 
to become sour. When the plants 
are up they should be placed 
near the glass, to keep them 
strong and stocky, and should be 
planted out before they become 
pot-bound. 

In preparing the bed for planting, 
the bottom of the frame should be 
covered with turves, grassy side 
downwards ; on the top of these lay 
a ridge of soil the whole length of 
the frame. This should afterwards 
be levelled up, as the plants root out 
in both directions. Frequent soil- 
ings are an evil in hot-bed culture, 
for such operations cannot be per- 
formed without disarranging the 



foliage and injuring the plants. The 
bed being prepared, and presuming 
the bottom heat to have subsided to 
about 75° or 80°, the plants should 
be planted, one in the centre of 
each light. If not done before, they 
should at the same time have their 
tops pinched off above the second 
or third leaf. After planting, with 
the assistance of linings, in the shape 
of stable litter and a careful economi- 
sation of sun-heat, the bottom heat 
may be kept at 70° at least, and the 
top heat at 70° at night, and 80° or 
85° with sun. In very bright weather 
a shading of thin canvas should be 
rolled over the frame during the 
hottest part of the day, but shading 
should not be resorted to more than 
can be helped. Air must be admitted 
at all times, and even in severe 
weather the sashes should be raised 
the thickness of a label to let the 
steam escape. The bed should be 
kept moist, but not sodden, and the 
plants should be sprinkled every 
afternoon in bright weather with 
soft, clean, tepid water. Under this 
treatment they will soon start into 
growth by sending out two strong 
leaders below where they were 
pinched. One should be trained 
towards the back of the frame and 
the other towards the front, and 
when they have come within about 
I ft. of the sides of the frame they 
should be pinched again, which will 
cause them to throw out laterals, 
showing fruit in all probability, 
which, with the exception of three 
or four on each limb, should be 
picked off and the laterals stopped 
one joint beyond the fruit. If the 
foliage be large and vigorous, it will 
perhaps be found advantageous to 
cut out some of the laterals alto- 
gether. It is much better to thin 
out the foliage and wood frequently 
than to let the plants get over- 
crowded, and then cut out a great 



270 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



quantity of wood at one time. After 
this the training of the plants con- 
sists in laying the shoots out, so as 
to cover the bed, stopping them 
regularly, and disposing of them 
generally so as to secure the greatest 
amount of light and air possible to 
every leaf. The plants should not 
be allowed to bear too heavily, if 
expected to keep up the supply for 
any length of time. When cropped 
moderately, and the fruit cut as fast 
as it is ready, the plants bear con- 
tinuously from April to November. 

Soil and Manure. — A great 
depth of soil is unnecessary for 
Cucumbers ; indeed, it is to be 
avoided, for they will succeed far 
better if they be planted in a little 
soil at first, and receive frequent 
top-dressings afterwards. For plant- 
ing, 8 or lo in. of soil is quite deep 
enough, if the bed receive slight 
dressings of stable manure mixed 
with soil to keep the plants in a 
vigorous state of health. Good turfy 
loam mixed with rotten manure is 
the best material in which to plant 
them, but the dressing should be of 
a richer nature. Many people use 
a quantity of peat mixed with the 
loam for winter Cucumbers; others 
use leaf-mould, but it is too light : 
the plants thrive well in it, but do 
not last so long nor fruit so freely as 
when grown in more holding soil. 
Cocoa-nut fibre refuse is highly 
recommended by some as a good 
dressing for Cucumber beds; but 
stable manure is by far the best kind 
of surfacing, and may be applied 
fresh from the stable, and if a little 
old m-ortar or brick rubbish be mixed 
therewith, it will be better still. 
Weak guano-water is the best kind 
of stimulant to apply to Cucumbers ; 
other kinds of manure-water are 
said to affect the flavour of the 
fruit. Abundance of water is at 
all times necessary to Cucumber- 



plants growing under advantageous 
circumstances. 

In Market-Gardens. — During 
summer the long ranges of pits and 
frames in market-gardens devoted 
in winter to the production of 
tender culinary plants are applied 
to Cucumber culture, and from 
these are cut thousands of fruits 
weekly. Indeed, few frame crops 
pay better than Cucumbers where 
they succeed well, and therefore 
every frame that can possibly be 
spared is planted with them. One 
grower at Fulham has a field 
of frame-ground, containing many 
ranges of frames with from 800. to 
1,000 ordinary sashes, in summer 
entirely devoted to Cucumbers. 
From this field are sent to market 
weekly during the summer from 200 
to 220 dozen fruit. Two or three 
men are usually kept at work in 
these frame-grounds, and on three 
days of the week (Monday, Wednes- 
day, and Friday) they are employed 
in cutting fruit for market, and on 
the other three week-days they are 
busy stopping and regulating the 
shoots of the Cucumbers, watering, 
etc. Should any young fruits ex- 
hibit a tendency to become crooked, 
they put them into cylindrical glasses 
open at both ends. These glasses 
are about 12 or 15 in. long, and 
1 1 or 2 in. in diameter, and several 
thousands of them are employed in 
one large frame-ground, as one good 
and straight Cucumber is worth 
nearly a dozen small and deformed 
ones. The crooked ones are dis- 
posed of for pickling. Should any 
" nosed " fruits, as they are termed, 
or such as have swelled at the point, 
be found, which occurs late in the 
season, a piece of string is tied round 
them, and they are left to ripen, as 
such fruits are certain to contain 
good seed. When the seed-fruits 
become yellow and are cut, they are 



CUCUMBER 



271 



placed under sashes or on boards ex- 
posed to the sun, so that the seeds 
get thoroughly ripe and hard before 
being separated from the pulp. 

The first sowing to supply plants 
for growing in frames is made in 
little punnets or flower-pots, early in 
the year, which are placed in hot 
manure frames. When the seeds 
germinate and are fit for potting off, 
two plants are potted into a 6 in. 
pot, and the whole replaced in the 
frames, keeping them near the glass. 
As soon as the frames to be planted 
can be spared, they are moved aside, 
and trenches cast out 5 ft. wide and 
2 ft deep, and firmly filled with 
• stable Htter. Over this some soil is 
placed, and the frames set on again. 
Another sowing is generally made 
to succeed the first one ; but, as a 
rule, there are seldom more than 
two sowings made, and the second 
is only sown because all the frames 
are not empty at one time to be filled 
by the first sowing. When the heat 
is at a proper temperature for plant- 
ing, a little more soil is introduced 
into the frames, andonepotful (con- 
taining two plants) is planted under 
each sash, and one of the plants is 
trained towards the front of the 
frame and the other towards the 
back. The sashes are then put on 
and all is kept close for a few days, 
and, if need be, a httle shading is 
also given by strewing some litter 
over the glass. Afterwards, until 
the plants have fairly begun to grow, 
no more ventilation is given than is 
necessary to prevent scorching in the 
case of bright sunshine. For several 
weeks after having been planted 
they are covered up at night with 
litter, removing it next morning ; 
indeed, this covering is not dis- 
continued until the month of June. 
When the plants have grown suffi- 
ciently to come into bloom, they 
are most attentively looked after in 



the way of regulating the growths, 
pegging them down, and stopping 
the lateral shoots at the joint beyond 
the embryo fruit, and preventing an 
accumulation of superfluous growths. 
Throughout the day they are allowed 
to have plenty of air during the 
summer, but it is all taken off at 
night ; in the morning the sashes 
are tilted up a little, and as the heat 
of the day increases they are still 
further opened. 

Water is given in the morning 
abundantly to those requiring it, 
whilst those that are not dry have 
simply a sprinkling overhead. It 
is cold water from the tap that is 
entirely used, and doubtless that is 
the greatest drawback to Cucumber 
growing with which the market- 
gardener has to contend, as where 
one or several acres are covered with 
frames, it would be almost an im- 
possibility to make tepid all the 
water that would be required. Large 
hogsheads, however, are sunk here 
and there about the frame-ground, 
and brick or cement tanks are 
frequently used for containing \vater, 
with which they are filled for the 
next day's use. Guano-water is 
sometimes given during the summer- 
time, being applied through a fine 
rose overhead. This application is 
not only useful as a stimulant, but 
when given overhead has been found 
to be of material benefit in destroy- 
ing or preventing red spider, as well 
as invigorating old plants. In refer- 
ence to woodlice, toads are put in 
the frames to destroy them. Cucum- 
bers require sunny weather to set 
well, and in dull wet seasons they do 
not thrive well, especially in the 
earher part of the year. Should the 
summer be hot and bright, the sashes 
are shaded a little, and this is done by 
strewing some rank litter over the 
glass ; but many market-gardeners, 
by way of economy of labour, paint 



272 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



the sashes with whiting. By August 
the plants are getting exhausted ; 
therefore careful attention is paid to 
thinning out old and bare vines, and 
encouraging young wood by means 
of stimulants, in the way of manure- 
water and coverings from cold ; and 
in this way they last till September. 
No fruits are saved for seed until 
August, for if left sooner they would 
materially weaken the crop of market- 
able fruit. Until August, Cucumbers 
are liable to red spider, thrips, green 
fly, mildew, canker, and various 
other diseases ; the only remedy 
being that of keeping the plants in 
as vigorous growth as possible. 
When mildew attacks the Cucumber 
it is generally the result of insuffi- 
cient ventilation and too low a 
temperature, When it does appear, 
dusting thinly but evenly with flour 
of sulphur through a piece of muslin 
cloth is the only cure. Thrips are the 
most terrible of the insect enemies 
which attack the Cucumber; for 
these, and also for green fly, which 
is sometimes troublesome on the 
young growths, fumigating with 
Tobacco is usually resorted to ; but 
the foliage of the Cucumber is so 
tender, especially when forced, that 
fumigation, unless done very care- 
fully, is a cure which is often worse 
than the disease, and should never 
be attempted by the inexperienced. 

Cucumbers in the Open Air. — 
Market-gardeners in the neighbour- 
hood of London grow but few 
Cucumbers in the open air. Many 
have attempted it, but most of them 
have now abandoned it, the result 
not having proved very satisfactory. 
W^here, however, it is carried on, 
they are grown under glass and 
hardened off and planted out 6 ft. 
asunder and lo ft. row from row, 
and hand-glasses are put over them. 
When they begin to grow, the ground 
is well mulched with straw, to keep 



the earth moist and the fruit clean. 
Due attention is paid to their after- 
culture in the way of stopping, 
thinning, etc., and in some cases 
fairly good results are obtained. In 
one or two counties, the soil and 
climate of which seem unusually 
well adapted to their growth, large 
quantities are grown in the open air 
for the London markets ; from such 
sources there are said to be sent to 
London not less than 600 tons a 
week during what is termed the Cu- 
cumber season. Of these upwards of 
100 tons have been known to be sent 
to Covent Garden in a single day. 
In good Cucumber-growing localities 
the seed is sown about the beginning- 
of May, where the plants are in- 
tended to grow, in rows some 4 ft. 
apart, and the plants stand nearly 2 
ft. asunder in the row. In favourable 
seasons they soon push into active 
growth and cover the ground with 
vines, which during the latter end of 
May, the whole of June, and begin- 
ning of July, spread in all directions 
and come into bearing. During their 
growth, weeding and thinning their 
superfluous shoots are well attended 
to, and if the plants should not en- 
tirely cover the ground, or wherever 
blanks occur, Mangold-Wurzel is 
planted in the vacant spaces. About 
4 yards apart are also rows of Onions, 
set early in the spring, which, being 
allowed to run to seed, serve in some 
measure both for shade and shelter. 
Where Onions are not used for this 
purpose, Rye, sown in the autumn, 
4 or 5 yards apart, and cut as soon 
as the vines cover the ground, is 
employed instead : Peas are also 
sometimes used for the same purpose. 
In this way the ground is made to 
produce two or three kinds of crops 
at the same time, and if one should 
happen to fail, one or more of the 
others, as the case may be, takes its 
place. By the middle of July or 



CUCUMBER 



27,3 



earlier, according to the season, the 
crop is ready for a first gathering, 
and from that time to the end of 
September fruit varying in length 
from 10 to 12 in., green and solid, 
though sometimes unshapely, is 
continually being cut. 

Gherkins. — These are extensively 
cultivated in London market-gardens, 
some growers frequently gathering 
from 18,000 to 20,000 fruit in one 
day. The seed is sown in May in 
rows, where the plants are to remain, 
in well-manured land. The rows 
are usually about 9 ft. apart, and the 
plants, which are thinned out when 
sufficiently advanced to admit of the 
strongest being discerned and left, 
allowed to stand 6 ft. apart in the 
rows. The after-treatment is exactly 
the same as that practised in the case 
of outdoor Cucumbers, except that 
the shoots of the Gherkins are allowed 
to grow unpinched. The fruit is 
gathered when about the size of a 
man's finger, placed in bushel baskets, 
and sent direct to the pickle manu- 
facturers. A good place for Gherkins, 



and one often devoted to them, is the 
alleys between the rows of spring- 
sown Cabbages or Radish beds. The 
alleys are dug over, the drills for the 
seeds opened in the morning, and the 
seeds are sown in the afternoon when 
the ground is warm. When the 
Radishes or other crops are cleared 
off the intervening beds, the latter 
are dug, and a line of Cauliflowers or 
French Beans is planted along the 
centre of them, or sometimes two 01 
three lines of Lettuces are put in. 
Some sow the Gherkins on an open 
quarter in patches of three or four 
seeds together, in rows about 5 or 
6 ft apart, and 3 or 4 ft. asunder in 
the row. Hand-glasses are then 
placed over the seeds, and when the 
young plants have come above 
ground, abundant ventilation is 
given until they show flower, when 
they are fully exposed. In most 
cases, however, they are raised in 
frames and transferred to the open 
ground in June, and in this way 
they fruit earlier and usually give 
less trouble and better results. 



Uses. — Cucumbers are eaten raw, boiled, or pickled. They are 
very good as a vegetable in the hands of a good cook, but are not 
often enough treated in this 
way in England. 

The varieties of Cucumbers 
are extremely numerous, and 
the designed or accidental 
crossings of different varieties 
are still producing new ones. 
We shall confine ourselves to 
the description of the kinds 
which are most distinct and 
most valuable for cultivation. 

Early Russian Gherkin. — - 
A truly miniature Cucumber, = 
with a slender stem 20 in. to 
2 ft. long, and small, bright 
green leaves. It is perfectly 
well adapted for frame culture, 
each plant producing from six 




Early Russian Gherkin natural size; 
detached fruit, i natural size). 

to eight fruit, which are short. 



274 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




egg - shaped, yellow, 
smooth, and a little 
larger than a hen's egg. 
This variety, which is the 
earliest of all, ripens fully 
in less than three months, 
and does not require 
any pinching or stopping. 
The fiesh of the fruit is 
not very thick, and is 
slightly bitter, but its re- 
markable earliness makes 
some amends for these 
trifling defects. In Russia 
there are many varieties 
of it, the earliest of which, 

Brown Netted, or Khiva, Cucumber natural size), generally producing but 

one fruit to each plant, 
is said to complete its entire growth in ten or eleven weeks. 

Brown Netted, or Khiva, Cucumber. — As the very early 
small-fruited Cucumbers 
grow better in Russia 
than any other kind, a 
great many distinct forms 
of them are cultivated in 
that country. They are 
not all so well known in 
France. We shall, how- 
ever, notice, next to the 
preceding variety, which 
is remarkable for its ex- 
treme earliness, another 
kind, which, although 
coming very__ near it in 
some respects, is strikingly 
distinct from it in the 
colour and appearance of 
the skin of the fruit. 
When ripening, the fruit 
of this variety does not 
take on the yellow tint 
common to a great 
number of other varieties 
of Cucumbers, but its 
skin turns brown, inter- 
sected by numerous lines , : Long Turkish Cucumber. 




CUCUMBEIt 




Early White Cucumber. 



of a paler hue which 
cross one another, 
giving it the appear- 
ance of being cracked. 
The fruit is something 
larger, and the plant 
stronger, than in the 
preceding variety, but 
not quite so early. 

Long Turkish 
Cucumber. — A very 
vigorous grower, with 
leaves of a dark green 
colour until the fruit 
has ripened. The fruit 
is long, slightly curved, 
and measures 12 to 
1 5 in, in length and between 2 and 3 in. in diameter. It is 
light green when young and turns to dark yellow as it ripens 
and then to brown. When ripe, the skin is marked with tiny 

white lines, resembling 
that of the Russian 
Brown Netted Cucumber. 
It is a very productive 
variety, a plant yielding 
generally five or six 
beautiful fruit. 

Early White Cucum- 
ber. — A variety with 
elongated, almost cylin- 
drical fruit, nearly three 
times as long as broad, 
at first pale green, but 
turning, as they ripen, to 
a porcelain-white. The 
fruit ripens early, but 
considerably later than 
that of the Early Russian 
Gherkin. 

White Parisian Long 
Ridge Cucumber. — This 
splendid variety produces 
smooth fruit, of regular 
cylindrical shape, as much 
as 20 in. in length by 3J 

White Parisian Long Ridge Cucumber. to 4 in. in diameter, all 




276 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Bonneuil Large White Cucumber. 



white from first to last, with dark green, vigorous, and abundant 
leaves. The plant can produce four to five Cucumbers if grown 

in substantial soil. Al- 
though not a hothouse 
variety, in France it 
succeeds much better and 
produces finer fruit grown 
in that way. In beauty 
of fruit it excels all the 
other White Cucumbers. 

Bonneuil Large 
White Cucumber. — This 
Cucumber, which is almost 
always grown in the open 
ground, is quite distinct 
from all other varieties. 
The fruit instead of bein^ 
cylindrical, is ovoid in 
shape, swollen about the 
middle, and, moreover, 
very perceptibly flattened 
from end to end in three 
or four places, producing 
the same number of more or less rounded angles. It is very large, 
not unfrequently attaining the weight of four and a half pounds. 
It is at first of a pale green colour, and gradually becomes white 
as it increases in size. This is the Cucumber which is most 
generally grown about Paris for the perfumers, who use large 
quantities of it in their 
manufactures. 

Early Yellow Dutch 
Cucumber. — Plant usually 
branching, with rather 
slender stems. Leaves of 
a light green colour, and 
with well-marked angles ; 
fruit longer and later than 
that of the Early Russian 
variety, but still well 
adapted for forcing. At 
first yellow - green, it 
becomes slightly orange- 
yellow when quite ripe. 
Thfere are usually only two or three fruit on each plant. 

Half-long Green Cucumber.— A vigorous half-early plant 
with light green stem and large leaves. The fruit is rather spiny ; 




Early Yellow Dutch Cucumber (i natural size). 



CUCUMBER 



277 



green striped with yellow when young or yellow at maturity, 
when it measures about 9 in. long and 2j in. in diameter. It is 
much grown, and very productive. 

Long Green Cucumber. — A rather large and vigorous- 
growing plant. Fruit slender and narrowed like that of the Early 
Yellow Dutch variety, but still longer and more pointed at both 
ends, and covered with very 
numerous and prominent spiny 
excrescences. It remains dark 
green in colour until ripe, when 
it turns a brown-yellow. The 
flesh of this variety is thick, 
firm, and crisp, on which 




Fournier Long Green Cucumber. Green Giant Ridge Cucumber. 

account it is highly valued for use in salads before it is ripe, 
generally when only half or three-quarters grown. 

Fournier Cucumber. — An early Cucumber with slender stem 
and pointed leaves. The fruit measures an average 16 in. in length 
and between 3 and 4 in. in diameter at the lower end, which is 
thicker than the end near the stalk. The colour is a vivid green. 
The fruit is spiny when young, and when ripe is quite smooth. 
It is vigorous, early, and productive, and well suited for the 
open culture, though better grown on a hot-bed. It keeps its 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



.colour and crispness long. The flesh is thick, and the seed space 
? not large. 

Green Giant Ridge Cucumber. — A fine and very productive 
^variety, which may in favourable conditions be grown in the open, 
though in the climate of Paris it succeeds better in hot-beds. This, 
We may add, is the case with all Cucumbers, except the Gherkins. 
The leaves are fairly large and strong, and the fruit more than 
15J in. in length. Green when young, they gradually become 

yellow as they get ripe. 
The skin is rough with 
only a few spines and 
generally straight and 
well-shaped. It may 
be recommended for 
the kitchen-garden 
and also for market- 
gardens. 

Long Green Stour- 
bridge Cucumber.— A 
productive and vigorous 
grower, with leaves 
large and pointed ; fruit 
almost spineless, in 
colour a vivid green, 
turning to pale yellow 
towards maturity. It 
is cylindrical in shape, 
blunted at both ends, 
and measures 13 to 
15 in. in length and 
I J to 2 J in. in diameter. 
Grown in hot-beds, it 
yields an early and 
abundant crop of re- 
markably fine fruit. 

Green Parisian 
Long Ridge Cucum- 
ber. — A vigorous plant, 
the leaves of which are pointed at first, and rounded later 
on. The fruit is long, cylindrical, measuring 15I- in. in length, 
2 to 3 in. in diameter, weighing often as much as four to six 
pounds and more, of an intense green colour up to full size, when 
it turns to a greenish yellow and afterwards to a pure yellow. 
The flesh is white, firm, and crisp. Given the right conditions, 
it may be grown out-of-doors, but succeeds much better raised 
in hot-beds. 




Green Parisian Long Ridge Cucumber. 



CUCUMBER 



Long Prickly Cucumber.— In England the Cucumber is very 
extensively cultivated, usually in houses specially constructed for 
the purpose, and with very great care and attention. Under 
these circumstances, the various kinds could not fail to become 
greatly improved in the size and appearance of the fruit, earliness 
and hardiness being considered 
only secondary qualities. This 
is precisely the result, and there 
are now in England many 
varieties of the Long Prickly 
Cucumber which have long, 
almost cylindrical fruit, and but 
few spines, with very solid flesh, 
and producing remarkably few 




Long English Prickly Cucumber. 



RoUisson's Telegraph Cucumber. 



seeds. We shall only mention the most noteworthy of these 
numerous varieties. 

RoUisson's Telegraph Cucumber, — Slightly longer than the 
preceding, it takes more kindly to hot-bed culture. It is extremely 
productive, each plant being able to carry as many as six to 
eight fruit, especially if cut in succession before they reach full 
size. Length between 15 and 24 in. The skin is smooth and 
glossy ; the flesh white, firm, and crisp. The stalk end is narrow, 



280 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

and mostly curved. The fruit is finer and better in appearance 
if care is taken to straighten it betimes before it can take an 
objectionable form. 

Duke of Bedford Cucumber. — A splendid Cucumber. The 
fruit is very long, straight, and smooth, with a very few spiny 
warts. Should be grown in a hothouse, or at any rate in a heated 
glass-pit. In ordinary glass-frames with only the mild temperature 
of fermenting manure, it is almost impossible to obtain fruit of fine 
size and appearance, but when grown in the conditions prescribed^ 
the fruit attains to a length and perfection unequalled by any other 
variety. 

The following varieties, likewise derived from the Long Prickly 
Cucumber, may also be mentioned : — 

Blue Gown Cucumber. — Fruit very long, frequently over 2 h., 
cylindrical, covered with a glaucous bloom. Spines few, white, 
with black points. A very handsome variety. 

Cardiff Castle Cucumber. — A vigorous plant, half-early, sets 
regularly ; good cropper. Fruit long and smooth. 

Hamilton's Market Favourite Cucumber. — Fruit 12 to 15 in., 
long, thin, slightly ribbed, light-coloured spines with black points. 

Marquis of Lorne Cucumber. — Fine and long fruit, narrowed 
at the end ; spines few and white. 

Tender and True Cucumber. — Fruit about 15^ in. long, 
cylindrical , spines scarce and light coloured with black points. 

The following varieties, which also produce long, handsome 
fruit, are also much grown in England : — Long- Gun, Duke of 
Edinburgh J Manchester Prize^ Dr. Livingstone^ J arm an! s Improved 
Telegraphy Stourbridge Gem, Sutton's Peerless, Lord Roberts^ 
Triumph. These varieties, to succeed well, require to be grown 
in hot-houses or on beds heated by hot-water pipes. 

Ridge Cucumbers. — The following varieties, although growing 
better in artificial heat, can be grown in the open ground, and 
hence are called Ridge Cucumbers : — 

Bedfordshire Ridge Cucumber. — A handsome, productive, and 
early kind, resembling Pike's Defiance, but with rather shorter fruit. 

Gladiator Cucumber. — Fruit about i ft. long, nearly cylindrical, 
straight, gradually narrowed at the stalk end and more abruptly so 
at the other. Flesh white, firm, and solid. 

King of Ridge Cucumber. — A fine variety, long, straight, rough- 
skinned, resembling the Green Giant Cucumber. 

Pikes Defiance Cucumber, — The fruit of this variety differs 
from that of the Gladiator Cucumber in being lighter in colour. It 
is a\so rather earlier, hardier, and remarkably productive. It is one 
of the best kinds for growing in the open ground. 

Of the open-air varieties which are not of English origin, we 
may mention the following : — 



CUCUMBER 



281 



Goliath Green Cucumber. — This seems to be only a variety ot 
the Green Giant Cucumber, from which it differs in being a little 
later and having the fruit a trifle longer. 

Tuscan Solid Green Cucumber. — Fruit handsome and long 
smooth, nearly cylindrical, becoming of a bronzy colour as it ripens. 

Extra Long White-spine Cucumber. —An American variety, 
with long, green, white-spined fruit, rather like the Long Green 
Chinese Cucumber. 

Greek, or Athenian, Cucumber. — A vigorous-growing plant, 
but of low thick-set habit, rather than very tall. Stems stout, and 
not more than 4| to a little over 5 ft. long, with the joints pretty 
close to one another. Leaves dark green, large, entire, or with 
three faintly marked lobes, 
toothed at the edges, de- 
creasing rapidly in size from 
the base to the end of the 
stem. Fruit always solitary 
in the axil of a leaf, three 
or four to a strong plant, 
nearly cylindrical, 10 to 12 in. 
long, sometimes narrowed 
near the stalk ; skin smooth, 
and entirely devoid of spines, 
uniformly green until nearly 
ripe, when it turns to bronzy 
yellow ; flesh white, firm, 
thick, completely filling the 
fruit, with the exception of 
a small portion occupied by 
the seeds. If gathered a short 
time before ripening, the fruit 
keeps fresh and firm for 
several days. The Greek 
Cucumber is an excellent, productive, and moderately early kind. 
It is also hardy and well adapted for growing in the open 
ground. 

Green Long Chinese Cucumber. — Leaves usually entire, but 
sometimes with three to five well-marked lobes. Fruit slightly 
flattened on three sides, 10 to 14 in. long, of a rather pale green 
colour, marked lengthways with whitish lines and bearing a few 
spines, which are entirely white, short, and easily detached from the 
skin. The colour of the fruit becomes paler as it ripens, until it is 
finally of a yellow-white with scarcely a shade of green. The flesh 
is very white, tender, and almost as thick as that of the Long White 
or of the Early White Cucumber. The plant is very productive, 
bearing for a long time in succession. It is a half-late variety. 




Greek, or Athenian, Cucumber (|- natural size). 



282 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



^ Extra Long White-spine Cucumber. — Fruit dark green, long, 
cylinder-shaped, with white spines ; the flesh tender and very white. 

^Bi^ /'"Xx^-^ vigorous and productive 

" " variety. 

Arlington, or Im- 



"^y^.^^^^ proved White-spine, 
" ^^^^Cr-f Cucumber. — Cultivated 
in the United States. Is 




Green Long Chinese Cucumber (i natural size). 



a sub-variety of the last- 
named, the fruit being 
much shorter, dark green, 
and more pointed at the 
ends. Adapts itself as 
well to forcing as to 
outdoor culture 

Gherkin, or Pickling, 
Cucumber. — A vigorous, 
free-flowering, and pro- 
ductive plant, with stems 
from 5 to over 6 ft. long. 
Fruit oblong in shape, 
and intermediate between 
the Early Russian and 
the Early Yellow Dutch 
varieties. They are almost 
always gathered scon after the plant flowers, when they are about 
as thick as the finger, and they are used almost exclusively for 
pickling. There are two 
distinct kinds of Gher- 
kin, viz. the Southern 
variety {Cornichon Court 
du Midi), which is more 
properly a small yellow 
Cucumber, very produc- 
tive, and of rapid growth, 
and the Small Green 
Paris variety, a more 
thick-set and more pro- 
ductive plant, with smaller 
fruit. 

The Early Frame, or 
Early Short Pickling, 
Cucumber, cultivated in 
the United States, is a 
handsome, short, early, hardy, and a much less leafing variety 
than the Southern kinds. 




Gherkin, or Pickling, Cucumber (natural size 
of young fruit). 



CUCUMBER 



283 



The Early Cluster 
Pickling Cucumber, also 
an American variety, re- 
sembles the Green Paris 
Cucumber, excepting that 
its colour is dark green. 
The fruit is also some- 
what longer, growing in 
bunches of two and three. 
It is a productive variety. 

Green Meaux Gher- 
kin. — Distinct from the 
ordinary Gherkin, the 
fruit being almost twice 
as long, nearly cylindrical 
in shape, and in colour 
a beautiful green, with 
an absence of spiny ex- 
crescences for a third of 
its length. Vigorous and 
hardy, it succeeds in open 
culture. It is more rapid in growth 





Improved Bourbonne Cucumber. 



Green Meaux Pickling Cucumber. 



than the ordinary Gherkin, 
and very productive. 

Improved Bour- 
bonne Cucumber. — A 

true Cucumber, produc- 
ing long, thin, crisp fruit, 
which, if gathered soon 
after they have set, make 
unusually fine Gherkins. 
The spines are more 
numerous and smaller 
than in other varieties, 
and resemble short, stout 
hairs. It is quite dis- 
tinct from the Meaux 
Cucumber, being thinner, 
longer, and a more 
intense green. It is 
specially suited for the 
production of Cornichons 
or Gherkins, on account 
of its abundant and long- 
continued yield, provided 
the fruit is gathered 
about as soon as formed. 



284 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The engraving shows the length and shape of the fruit when 
ready for pickling. 

Toulouse Gherkin. — A vigorous plant, with rounded light 
green leaves. When fully grown the fruit is thick, egg- 
shaped, and yellow, measuring 7 or 8 in. in length and about 3^ in. 
in diameter. The half-grown fruit, as used for pickling, is thick, 
short, and spiny, with triangular section. This kind is much grown 
in the south-west of France. It is fairly early and very productive. 

Early White-spine Pickling Cucumber. — A very hardy and 
vigorous and also very productive variety, each plant carrying 
eight or ten fruit if they are allowed to ripen, and many more if 
gathered young. When young they are green, short, and stout ; 
as they grow they become paler and marked with four or five white 
longitudinal lines ; when quite ripe they are almost white. Of 
recent introduction from America, it is particularly recommended 
for market-garden culture. 

Boston Pickling, or Green Prolific, Gherkin. — An American 
smooth-fruited variety. It is short, bright green, and comes 
between the Russian and the Paris Gherkin, but is more like the 
Russian. In America it is much used for pickling. 

The Chinese Gherkin is a pretty and vigorous variety, low- 
growing, and not trailing much ; the fruit longer and more 
cylindrical than the European varieties. 

SNAKE CUCUMBER 

Cucuinis JlTelOy L. var. ; Cucumis flexuosus, L. Cticiirbitacece. 

French^ Concombre serpent. German, Griine lange gekriimmte Schlangen-Gurke, 
Schlangen-Melone. Italian, Anguria. 

Native of the East Indies. — Annual. — Stem creeping, slender, 
round or bluntly angular, and covered with short hairs ; leaves 

rounded, almost kidney-shaped, or 
vv^ith five obtuse angles ; flowers 
monoecious, pale yellow, small, with 
five rounded divisions, exactly respm- 
bHng the flowers of a Melon knd 
quite unlike those of a Cucumber ; 
fruit very long and slender, almost 
always bent and twisted, dark green, 
Snake Cucumber natural size), marked with paler longitudinal furrows, 

and thickest at the end farthest from 
the stalk. They are about 3 ft. and sometimes more in length, 
and change to a yellow colour when ripe, at which time they 
exhale a strong odour of Melons. The seed is like that of the 
Melon. Its germinating power lasts for seven or eight years. 
This species, notwithstanding its common name, is a true Melon. 




SNAKE CUCUMBER 



285 



Individual plants of it are found bearing at the same time fruit 
some of which are long and snake-like, while others are broad 
and oval in shape. Sometimes even the same fruit will be thin 
and snake-like near the stalk, and swollen at the other end into 
the semblance of a Melon. The culture is almost like that of 
the Melon. The plant does not grow well in the open air in the 
climate of Paris. The Snake Cucumber is chiefly grown as a 
curiosity, but it may be used for pickling, like the Gherkin. 

PRICKLY, or WEST INDIAN, GHERKIN 

Cuciimis Anguriay L. Cucurbitacece. Concombre des Antilles. 

Native of Jamaica. — Annual. — A creeping and very branching 
plant. Stem slender, covered with rough hairs, from 6 to nearly 
10 ft. long, and furnished with simple tendrils. Leaf-stalks as long 
as the blade of the leaf, which is 
divided into five or seven rounded, 
slightly toothed lobes. Male 
flowers yellow, very small, less 
than \ in. in diameter, numerous, 
on short slender stalks ; female 
flowers long-stalked. Fruit oval, 
green, with white longitudinal 
streaks, turning pale yellow when 
ripe, covered all over with fleshy 
protuberances, which are pointed 
or curved like true spines or 

prickles. When ripe it is about ^^^^ ^^^^^^ Gherkins. 

2 m. long, and over i m. m 

diamefer. The stalk is nearly twice as long as the fruit. The 
interior of the fruit is almost entirely filled with the seeds. The 
flesh is very scanty, but white, firm, and of a very agreeable flavour, 
without any bitterness. Seeds small, oval, and rather swollen ; their 
germinating power lasts for at least six years. In the Colonies the 
fruit is eaten boiled or pickled. 

GLOBE CUCUMBER 

Cucumis prophetarum^ L. Cucurbitacece. Concombre des prophetes. 

Native of Northern and Central Africa. — Probably perennial, 
but annual in France. — A plant with a rather short creeping or 
climbing stem, which seldom exceeds from about 3 to 5 ft. in 
length, and is very rough and a gray colour. Leaves also gray, 
oval, and divided into five round lobes. Fruit oblong in shape, 
about 2 in. long and about if in. in diameter, marked with 




286 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



alternate bands of yellow and dark green, and covered all over 
with stout and almost spiny hairs ; the flesh is scanty, and too 
bitter for eating. Seeds small, flat, oval, but terminating in a point 
at each end, and with a smooth, almost white skin. Their 
germinating power lasts for over six years. 

With this species is sometimes confounded the Gooseberry 
Cucumber {Cucumis myriocarpus, Ndn.) — a plant with long stems 
and very green leaves, which produces an abundance of very 
small fruit covered with stout green hairs, and exactly resembling 
Gooseberries in shape and size. 

CUMIN or CUMMIN 

Cuminum Cyminum^ L. Umbelliferce, 

French, Cumin de Malte. German^ Pfeffer-Kummel. Dutch, Komijn. Italian^ 
Comino di Malta. Spanish, Comino. 

Native of Upper Egypt. — Annual. — A very low-growing plants 
seldom more than 4 to 6 in. high, and branching from the base. 
Leaves reduced to mere linear blades ; flowers small, lilac, borne 
in terminal umbels of from ten to twenty flowers on the extremities 
of very divergent branches ; seed large, elongated, concave on one 
side and convex on the other, with six rather prominent ribs on 
the convex side, and bearing long hairs, which fold up when the 
seed is ripe. The seeds have a hot taste and a strong aromatic 
flavour. Their germinating power lasts fairly well for three years,, 
but declines visibly after the second year. 

Culture. — The seed is sown in the open ground as soon as it > 
has become warm enough, that is, in the beginning or middle of 
May. The plants grow rapidly, and the seed commences to ripen 
at the end of July. No attention is necessary, except the occasional 
use of the hoe. The seeds are used for flavouring soups and 
pastry, and also in the manufacture of some kinds of liqueurs. 

DANDELION 

Leontodon Taraxacum, L. Contpositce, 

French, Pissenlit, Dent-de-lion. Germatt, Lowenzahn. Flemish, Molsalaad. Italian^ 

Dente di leone. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Leaves all radical, spreading 
into a rosette, smooth, oblong, runcinate, with triangular-lanceolate 
lobes, and entire towards the extremity ; youngest leaves often 
brownish at the commencement of their growth. Flower-stalks 
hollow, one-flowered ; flower-heads large with florets of golden- 
yellow. Seeds compressed, oblong, rough or scaly, and prickly at 
the top ; their germinating power lasts for two years. 



DANDELION 



287 




Thick-leaved, or Cabbaging, Dandelion 
(i natural size). 



People contented themselves with gathering Dandelions in the 
meadows or fields until, as they became an important article of 
commerce in the Central Market of Paris, it occurred to some that 
it could be cultivated and 
improved by the selection 
of seed from choice plants. 
Thus the plant was im- 
proved to a remarkable 
degree, as may easily be 
seen by comparing the 
produce of seeds gathered 
from the wild plant with 
that of seeds obtained from 
the cultivated plants. 

Culture. — The seed 
may be sown in March 
or April, either where the 
plants are to stand, or in 
a seed-bed, from which the seedlings are to be pricked out, in 
May or June, in rows, which should be 14 to 16 in. apart. The 
plants are extremely hardy, and require no attention beyond 
occasional hoeings and waterings. In autumn they commence 
to yield, and will continue to do so all through the winter, if 

they are looked after. The 
quality of the Dandelion 
is much improved by 
blanching, which may be 
effected either by covering 
the bed with a layer of 
sand, or by placing an 
inverted flower-pot over 
each plant, having pre- 
viously gathered the leaves 
up together. The pot 
should be large enough 
to cover the plant without 
pressing the leaves too 
closely against one another. 
In winter the plants lose 
most of their leaves, but 
an abundant new growth 
takes place in spring, and 
any plants which have not 
yielded much the first yeardoso plentifullyin thespring of the second. 

Uses. — The whole of the plant is used for sakd ; if blanched, 
so much the better. 




Improved Very Early Dandelion. 



288 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Improved Giant Erect Dandelion. 



Large Green Montmagny Dandelion. — This, now largely 
grown in the vicinity of Paris, is a more vigorous form of the 

Common Dandelion. It 
blanches well. 

Thick-leaved, or 
Cabbaging, Dandelion. — 
A very distinct variety, 
obtained by cultivation, and 
surpassing the wild plant 
not so much in the size as 
in the very great number 
of its leaves, which form a 
regular tuft or clump, instead 
of a plain rosette. It yields 
a very abundant crop with- 
out taking up much ground, 
and blanches very easily 
and, indeed, almost naturally. 
It appears to us to be the 
best variety that has been 
obtained up to the present. 
Improved Very Early Dandelion. — Increasing the breadth 
of the leaves of Dandelions has resulted in fewer leaves being 
produced. The variety 
known as the Improved 
Broad-leaved Dandelion, 
forms a simple rosette of 
very large and broad 
leaves, sometimes 20 in. 
across. Its productiveness 
not being in proportion 
to the amount of space 
it occupies, it has been 
almost completely super- 
seded by a sub-variety 
called the Improved Very 
Early Dandelion, in which 
less productiveness is com- 
pensated for by greater 
earliness. Its leaves are 
large, and are formed as 
soon as the winter is over. 
They make a very delicate 
salad. 

Improved Giant Erect Dandelion. — A distinct variety which, 
instead of forming into a rosette, like other Dandelions, grows 




Moss-leaved Dandelion. 



DANDELION 



28g 



in erect, strong, thickly set tufts. The leaves are long, stout, 
toothed, and slightly brown. It is very early, vigorous, and more 
prolific than most of the other Dandelions. 

Moss-leaved Dandelion. — A distinct variety of Curled-leaved 
Dandelion, much denser and more compact than the Common 
kind, and apparently permanent in its characteristics. The blade 
of the leaf is divided and, as it were, slashed into narrow strips. 
The plant can be easily blanched, and in that condition affords 
a salad not unlike Curled Endive, but coming in in spring, when 
it is very difficult to have any Endive fit for table use. 

DILL 

Anethum graveolens, L. Umbelliferce. 

French^ Aneth. German^ Dill. Flemish, Dille. Danish, Dild. Italian, Aneto. 

Spanish^ Eneldo. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — A plant 2 to over 2\ ft 
high. Leaves very much cut into thread-like segments ; stem 
glaucous green, hollow, very smooth, and branching ; flowers 
yellowish, with very small petafe which are rolled inwards, borne 
in compound umbels without bracts ; seeds very flat, and having 
a strong and bitter flavour; their germinating power lasts for 
three years. The plant, in its general appearance, very much 
resembles the Common Fennel, and all its green parts have a 
flavour Hke that of Fennel and Mint combined. Sown in April, 
where the plants are to stand, it succeeds well in the open air, in 
any kind of well-drained soil, especially in a warm position. The 
seeds are used as a condiment, or for pickling with Gherkins. In 
the north of France they are often employed for flavouring winter 
preserves. 

EGG-PLANT 

Solanum Melongena^ L. SolanacecB. 

French, Aubergine. Gertnan, Eierpflanze. Flemish, Eierplant. Italian, Petronciano. 
Spanish, Berengena. Portuguese, Beringella. 

Native of India. — Annual. — Stem erect, branching ; leaves 
entire, oblong, of a gray-green colour, more or less powdery, and 
often spiny on the veins. Flowers solitary in the axils of the 
branches, shortly stalked ; corolla monopetalous, and of a dull 
violet colour ; calyx often spiny, increasing in size with the fruit. 
Seeds small, flattish, kidney-shaped, and yellow ; their germinating 
power lasts for six or seven years. 

Culture. — In the climate of Paris the Egg-plant can seldom 
be grown without the aid of artificial heat. The seed is usually 
sown on a hot-bed in February or March, and the seedlings are 



19 



290 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

pricked out into another hot-bed six weeks or two months later. 
Early varieties raised in hot-beds may also be planted out in the 
open air about the end of May, when the ground has become well 
warmed. The plants require a warm and sheltered position, and 
plentiful waterings. In order to obtain handsome, well-grown fruit, 
a certain number only should be allowed to remain on each plant, 
proportioned to its strength. It is a good plan also to pinch the 
extremities of the branches towards the end of the summer. In 
England we have never seen this plant well grown even under 
glass. In the Eastern States of North America we were surprised 
at the fine health it attained in the fields, and the great size of the 

fruit — as large as well-grown 
Melons. 

Uses.— The fruit is usually 
cooked. The different varie- 
ties are highly esteemed for 
table use in the countries of 
the south of Europe and 
South America. 

Long Purple Egg-plants 
— Stem greenish, or faintly 
tinged with brown. Leaves 
oval, entire, slightly sinuate- 
lobed, and bearing a few 
purple-coloured spines on the 
veins of the upper surface ; 
youngest leaves purple at the 
base, the others entirely green. 
Flowers lilac, large, axillary^ 
with a brown calyx, which 
Long Purple Egg-plant (i natural size). increases very much in size 

after the flower fades, so that 
it is three or four times larger when the fruit is ripe than it was 
when the flower opened. Fruit oblong-oval, slightly club-shaped, 
thickest at the end farthest from the stalk, very smooth and 
glistening, and almost black-purple in colour ; flesh firm and 
compact, with few seeds, and best in quality before the fruit is 
fully grown. When quite ripe, the fruit is from 6 to 8 in. long 
and 2 to 3 in. in diameter. A well-grown plant may carry from 
eight to ten fruit. This is the best variety for table use in all 
countries where the summer is long and warm, as it requires five 
or six months' growth to ripen the fruit. It is therefore especially 
suitable for the south of Europe, but for the climate of Paris the 
following kind is to be preferred. 

Early Long Purple Egg-plant.— A sub-variety of the pre- 
ceding kind, in comparison with which it is not quite so strong- 




EGG-PLANT 



291 



growing nor so large, being of more slender habit. Stem almost 
black ; leaves oval, entire, with hardly any spines, and with the 
stalk and veins very deeply 
tinged with purple on the 
upper surface. The general 
tint of the leaves is grayer 
than that of the leaves of 
the preceding kind, and the 
fruit is smaller and more 
slender. This variety, on 
account of its earliness, is 
the most suitable for culture 
in the climate of Paris. 

Barbentane Very Early 
Long Purple Egg-plant. 
— Stem black ; leaves oval, 
generally lobed, of a gray 
dark green colour, with 
black stalks ; veins much 
tinged, specially on the 
upper surface, and bearing 
a few spines on the lower 
side ; flowers large, purple, 
with brown calyx. The 
fruit measures 7 to 8 in. 
in length, and about 2 in. 
in diameter at the thickest part ; it is almost cylindrical and 
slightly pointed, and very dark, almost black. Each plant bears 
eight or ten fruit, which ripen well even in mild climates. It is 
very early and is the most productive Egg-plant grown in the 

climate of Paris. 
\>M{K'^^^ Early Dwarf Purple 
u Egg-plant. — A very 

early variety, and there- 
fore very valuable for 
our climate. Plant low- 
growing and branching, 
with a black stem and 
dark violet-coloured 
flowers. Leaves of a 
slightly gray-green 
colour, elongated, and 
faintly waved at the 
edges ; veins black on 
the upper surface ; leaf-stalk dark violet, as are also the divisions 
of the calyx. Fruit ovoid, 3 or 4 in. long and about 2 in. in 




Barbentane Very Early Egg-plant. 




Early Dwarf Purple Egg-plant. 



292 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



diameter at the thick end, numerous, of a rather deep but dull 
purple colour, and not glistening like those of the Long Purple 
variety. They are fit to gather at least a month earlier than those 
of any other kind, and each plant may be allowed to carry a dozen 
or so. The dwarf habit of this plant renders it very suitable for 
frame culture in early spring. This variety should be looked 
after, as one of the most likely to suit our English climate, in 
which the Egg-plant has not yet been successfully cultivated. 




Round Purple Egg-plant natural size). New- York Purple Egg-plant, 



Round Purple Egg-plant. — Stem brown, as are also the 
leaf-stalks and the veins of the leaves. Leaves rather large, very 
green, broad, and almost always sinuated at the edges ; veins purple 
on the upper surface, and bearing a few spines ; stalks very spiny. 
Fruit very large, and of a paler and duller purple colour than the 
fruit of the preceding varieties. It is not quite round, but more 
like a short Pear. The variety is later than the two preceding 
kinds, and is especially suitable for southern climates. A plant of 
it should not carry more than three or four fruit. 

New- York Purple Egg-plant. — Stem stout, not very tall, 
usually branching, and of a gray-green, slightly, or not at all, tinged 



EGG-PLANT 



293 



with purple. Leaves entire, undulated at the edges, or faintly 
lobed, and bearing short spines on the ribs on both sides. Flowers 
pale lilac, rather large. Fruit very large, of a very short Pear- 
shape, and slightly flattened at both ends ; it is paler in colour .than 
that of the Round Purple Egg-plant, but is larger and fuller and 
entirely devoid of ribs or longitudinal furrows. The fruit-stalk, 
and also the persistent calyx, usually remain green up to the time 
of ripening. This variety is distinguished from those already 
enumerated by its lower stature, its more compact and thick-set 
habit, and especially by the quality of the flesh, which almost 
entirely fills the interior of the fruit, leaving but very little space 
for the seeds. A plant 
seldom carries more than 
two fruit. The Comuion 
Giant Egg-plaitt is to be 
referred to this variety, 
which is steadily super- 
seding it in cultivation. 
There is a variety of this 
with cream-white fruit 
which is much appreci- 
ated in the United States, 
where it is known as the 
Pearl-wJiite Egg-plant. 

Black Pekin Egg- 
plant. — A strong-growing 
plant, almost entirely of 
a black-purple colour. 
Fruit nearly or quite 
spherical, 5 or 6 in. in 
diameter, glistening, and 
exhibiting this peculiarity 
— that those parts of it 
which are protected from the action of the sun by being 
covered with the divisions of the calyx remain quite green. 
This variety is not of much account for the climate of Paris, 
as it is late, and the fruit has a very decided acridity in its 
flavour. 

Madras Egg-plant. — Its culture is exactly like that of the 
other Egg-plants. Its chief use, however, is as an ornamental 
plant. The fruit is numerous, oblong, pear-shaped, varying in 
colour on the same plant between purple, yellow, green, and also 
striped white and yellow. It is eaten as a vegetable in India, but 
for table purposes it cannot be compared with the improved 
varieties as known to us. Here it can only be useful for its 
ornamental qualities. 




Black Pekin Egg-plant. 



294 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Chinese Brinjal, or White China Egg-plant. — A very distinct 
variety, with long slender white fruit, which are almost always 
curved. A late kind. 

There are a great many other varieties of Egg-plant, which are 
more or less closely allied to those just described. The most note- 
worthy of these we shall briefly mention, as follows : — 

Catalonian Egg-plant. — A late, spiny kind, resembling the 
Round Purple variety. 

Murcian Egg-plant — Fruit purple, round, marked with a few 
ribs ; stem and leaves spiny ; the leaves are more lobed and the 
veins are more deeply coloured than those of the Round Purple 
variety. 

Antilles Giant Egg-plant.— This is a strong-growing late kind, 
without spines, and bearing fruit resembling that of the Round 
Purple variety. 

Green Egg-plant. — This does not appear to be a distinct and 
fixed variety, as, amongst the White Egg-plants, fruit are frequently 
met with which are more or less greenish or variegated with green. 

Thibet Egg-plant — A late variety, with elongated fruit of a 
greenish white colour. It was introduced about thirty years ago, 
and seems to have gone almost out of cultivation. 

WHITE EGG-PLANT 

Solanum ovigermn, Dun. 

French, Aubergine blanche. German, Weisse Eierpflanze. 

A rather low-growing, branching plant. Stem and leaf-stalks 
green, or very faintly tinged with purple, and bearing a few white 

spines ; leaves wavy at the edges ; 
flowers lilac ; fruit white, exactly 
resembling a hen's egg, but turn- 
ing yellow when ripe. Like the 
Madras Egg-plant, its chief use 
is for ornament. The fruit is 
(probably erroneously) considered 
by some to be unwholesome. 
There is a form of it which has 
larger fruit, and another of dwarfer 
growth and with much smaller 
fruit, which is known as the Dwarf 
White Egg-plant. 

All the forms are cultivated 
Wbi'te Egg-plant (i natural size). the same way as the common 

kinds. The fruit is not eaten, 
but may be used as ornaments in baskets of mixed fruits at 
dessert, etc. 




ENDIVE 



295 



ENDIVE 

Cichorium Endivia, L. CompositCB. 

French, Chicoree Endive. German, Endivien. Flemish and Dutch, Andijvie. Danish^ 
Endivien. Italian, Indivia. Spanish and Portuguese^ Endivia. 

Native of the East Indies. — Annual and biennial. — A plant 
with numerous radical leaves, smooth, lobed, more or less deeply 
cut, and spreading into a rosette. Stem hollow, from 20 in. to 
over 3 ft. high, channelled, and branching ; flowers blue, axillary, 
sessile ; seeds small, angular, long, gray, ending in a point on one 
side, and having a sort of membranous collar on the other. Their 
germinating power lasts for ten years. All the varieties which 
have sprung from Cichorimjt Endivia are distinguished by having 
the leaves entirely smooth, both on the blade and on the stalk, and 
by being of a more tender constitution and more sensitive to cold 
than the cultivated varieties of Cichoriuin Intybus. 

Culture. — As Endive is a plant of rapid growth, highly 
esteemed for table use, it is grown all the year round. The 
gardeners about Paris commence to sow it in the open ground in 
April, and make successional sowings up to the end of August. In 
September and October they sow under cloches (or bell-glasses), 
and from Decem.ber to April in hot-beds. (As far as possible, no 
plants are grown in the open ground except those which have been 
sown there, as, if planted out from hot-beds, they are liable to run 
to seed the same year.) The seedlings are pricked out as soon as 
they are strong enough and have seven or eight leaves, at a distance 
of from 10 to 16 in. from plant to plant, according to the variety, 
and, from the time they strike root until they are fully grown, 
should be frequently and plentifully watered. Endive grown in the 
open ground may be gathered for use from August, and the plants 
will continue to yield, if properly looked after, either where they 
stand, or removed to a vegetable-house, up to the end of winter. 
During the remainder of the year, the plants which are sent to 
table are raised under bell-glasses or in hot-beds. Before they are 
gathered, the plants are usually blanched. For this purpose they 
are left until nearly full grown, when the leaves are all tied up 
together, so as to protect the heart of the plant effectually from the 
action of sunlight. The plants are allowed to stand where they 
grow, and are watered when necessary, care being taken not to let 
any water get into the hearts, or they will be liable to rot. Endive 
treated in this way will be fit for use in about twenty days. Any 
plants which are standing when frosty weather comes on will con- 
tinue to grow if protected by a covering of leaves or straw mats, 
which should be removed when the weather becomes mild. In 
this way the yield of the different varieties, and especially of the 
Batavian Endive, may be prolonged for several weeks. Late- 



296 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



grown plants may be taken up with balls and removed to a 
vegetable-house, where they can be blanched. For particulars of 
the ways in which Endive is forced, we must refer to special 
treatises on market gardening and early spring crops. 



Culture in Britain. — Endive 
requires much less heat than Let- 
tuce, and is chiefly valuable as an 
autumn and winter salad vegetable. 
In many gardens, if sown before 
August, it is almost certain to run 
to seed prematurely, and conse- 
quently it is unwise to depend upon 
one, or even two sowings. 

Sowing. — Make a small sowing 
of the Moss-curled and Green Curled 
about the middle of July, another of 
the same varieties and Improved 
Broad-leaved Batavian about the 
first week in August, and a final 
sowing of Green Curled and Batavian 
at the middle of August. The Moss- 
curled is close-growing and blanches 
quickly, but is the least hardy, and 
is not at all suitable for late work. 
This variety requires less room than 
the others, and may be sown in 
drills 6 in. apart, and the plants 
should eventually be thinned out to 
the same distance asunder. The 
other two are strong growers, and 
the rows may well be 12 in. apart 
and the plants 10 in. asunder in the 
rows. The first sowing is made on 
a small border previously used for 
pricking out Cauliflowers and 
Brussels Sprouts, and but few of 
the seedlings are transplanted unless 
it be to make up blanks. A long 
border previously well enriched for 
early Cauliflowers is given up to the 
second sowing, being prepared by 
simply having the surface lightly 
coated over with lime and heavily 
hoed. The drills are drawn and 
watered, the seed sown thinly and 
lightly covered. For the final sow- 
ing a warmer or rather better drained 
border is preferred — one previously 
cropped with early Potatoes. Dig- 



ging being unnecessary in the former 
case, it is still less so when planting 
or sowing ground after Potatoes, 
but if the ground be at all poor, 
fork in, but not deeply, a dressing 
of short manure. Usually there is 
great difficulty in preserving the 
young plants from slugs, and not 
unfrequently it is necessary to sow 
seeds in a frame so as to have 
sufficient plants to make up the 
large blanks caused by these pests. 
In some gardens where the soil is 
Hght, and the drainage good, it is a 
good plan to plant the Endive in 
shallow drills, say, about 6 in. wide 
and 3 in. deep. In such positions 
they can be easily watered, and an 
occasional supply of liquid manure 
poured between them will cause 
them to grow to a great eize. These 
drills also render blanching a simple 
matter, all that is necessary being to 
cover a few plants a few days before 
they are wanted with either boards 
or slates. In order to have Endive 
in good condition over as long a 
period as possible, extra pains must 
be taken with the 

Blanching and Protecting. — 
Unless properly blanched. Endives 
are not appreciated, and unless some 
measures are taken to ensure pro- 
tection, they are liable to be much 
injured, if not actually killed, by 
frosts. All that is necessary in the 
case of the early crops is to either 
tie up a certain number at weekly 
intervals, much as we would Brown 
Cos Lettuces, or cover with boards, 
or with rough litter or hay, and the 
same methods of blanching may be 
adopted with those protected. Under 
hay the Endive blanches perfectly, 
without being soiled or injured in 



ENDIVE 



297 



any way. Only a given number, 
according to the demand, should be 
covered at a time, as the plants will 
not keep long after being blanched. 
Where portable garden frames are 
abundant, any number of plants may 
be covered with these, the lights 
being put on and further protection 
in the shape of mats and htter given 
when necessary. It is when frames 
are scarce that the grower has to 
adopt various contrivances in order 
to meet with the demand for salad- 
ing. In some districts Endive does 
not keep well if Hfted and stored, 
but in less moist neighbourhoods I 
have kept great numbers closely 
packed in frames. In this case the 
plants were lifted before severe 
frosts were anticipated, as if only 
slightly injured early decay is certain 
to follow. A dry day was selected, 
the plants carefully tied up, lifted 
up with a trowel so as to secure a 
good ball of earth to the roots, and 
they were then carried in hand- 
barrows to the frame ground. 
Frames previously used for Melon, 
Cucumber, and Tomato culture 
were filled rather closely with the 
Endive, and into the good soil they 
soon pushed fresh roots. The whole 
of the plants were untied, and were 
blanched with hay according as 
required, the last to be covered 
being the Batavian, this being the 
best keeping sort. I do not care to 
leave any quantity of Endive in the 
open from want of frame room, and 
have frequently stored some in a 
Mushroom-house for early use, and 
many more in a dry shed, these 
proving serviceable in lengthening 
the period before those better stored 
under the frames, or covered where 
grown, are cut. Whatever plan of 
storing is adopted, care should 
always be taken to lift before the 
plants are injured and when as dry 
as possible. The small or half- 



grown plants of the hardiest sort 
sometimes stand out uninjured 
during the winter, especially if 
planted on a dry or raised border, 
and these sometimes prove of ser- 
vice in maintaining the supply of 
salading till such times as the frame 
Lettuces are fit for use. — W. I. 

Endive is largely grown in nearly 
all market-gardens round London, 
and especially in those situated in 
moist districts. The first sowing is 
usually made early in May, either in 
frames or on prepared beds in the 
open air. In either case, good rich 
soil is used in which to sow the seed, 
and the surface after sowing is made 
firm by being beaten with the back 
of the spade. The chief point in 
reference to early-sown Endive is to 
keep the plants continually growing, 
as if they experience the least check 
they run to seed or "bolt," as it is 
termed. On this account early 
Endive, as a rule, is not grown in 
very large quantities. The principal 
sowing is made early in June, and is 
succeeded by smaller ones to the 
end of July. In most cases the out- 
door sowings are made on the ground 
on which they are to grow, as on 
Celery ridges or between the rows 
of any crops where there is room, 
and for which the ground was well 
manured. Sometimes, however, the 
seed is sown on beds, and the seed- 
hngs thinned out if too thick, and 
transplanted when sufficiently large 
to handle. In any case the distance 
apart of permanent plants is from 
12 to 15 in. Endive and Lettuces 
are frequently planted on land 
alternately, large fields being often 
devoted to them ; sometimes whole 
fields of Endive alone occur. Blanch- 
ing is effected by tying up the leaves 
like those of Lettuces with withies 
or pieces of bast. In from twelve 
to fifteen days after being tied up 
Endive is ready for market. The 



298 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



most forward piece is then cleared 
by pulling the plants up by their 
roots, and in this state they are 
packed in hampers and conveyed to 
market. The Dwarf Green Curled 
and the Batavian are the kinds 
chiefly grown, but the former sort 
is that which is grown in the greatest 
quantity. The produce from the 



earliest sowings is ready for market 
early in August and onwards until 
Christmas, and even later. A few 
growers house plants for winter and 
spring supply, but now, when they 
have to compete in the market with 
the French, the prices obtained 
scarcely remunerate them for their 
trouble and house-room. 



Uses. — The leaves are eaten boiled or in salad. In England 
we make no such good use of Endive as a boiled vegetable as the 
French do. Many vegetables as we have, the distinct flavour of 
certain varieties of Endive when cooked should make them as 
welcome as table vegetables as they are in France. 

Green Curled Summer Endive.— Under this name, two 
very distinct varieties are very extensively cultivated, namely, 

the Paris and the Anjou. 
The Paris, or Italian, 
variety is the older of 
the two kinds. It has 
its leaves arranged in a 
dense rosette, full even 
at the centre, and from 
12 to 14 in. in diameter. 
The leaves are very 
much divided in the 
upper half into slender 
segments, which are not 
much curled. The lower 
half of the leaf is a rib 
or stalk over i in. wide, 
and a faint rosy colour, 
especially at the base. 

The Ajy'ou variety 
began to be very 
generally cultivated about twenty years ago, and is superseding 
the other variety, to which it is very much superior. It forms 
a rosette nearly as broad as that of the Paris variety, but much 
denser and more convex in shape. The leaves are very numerous, 
and closely crowded together ; the leaf-stalk or rib is entirely 
white at the base, h in. or more broad, and edged on the lower 
half with white thread-like leafy segments. In the upper half 
of the leaf the midrib widens perceptibly, is often more or less 
contorted, takes a green tint, and is furnished with very finely 
cut leafy appendages, which are only slightly curled, and are a 
clear green colour, changing to a butter-yellow in the heart of 




Green Curled Paris Endive. 



ENDIVE 



299 



the plant. The extremities of the leaves become intertangled to 
such an extent that one leaf cannot be distinguished from another, 
and the whole plant almost resembles a great tuft of Moss. 




Green Curled Summer Endive (Anjou variety) 
(§■ natural size). 



These two kinds are 
cultivated in the same way. 
They are both suitable for 
forcing and for open-air 
culture, especially in summer 
and early autumn, but later 
on they are very liable 
to rot. 

Green Fine-curled 
Winter Endive {Chicoree 
frisee de Meaux). — This 
variety forms a broader 
rosette than the preceding 
kind, but not so full. It is 
usually from 16 to 18 in. 
across. The leaves are 
longer and their divisions 
are more curled and crisped 
than in the summer variety. 
The midrib, which is tinged with rose-colour on the lower part, 
is often \ in. or more broad, the middle part being furnished 
with very much divided, crisped, and curled leafy segments. 
The terminal portion of the leaf is entire and almost fiat, with 
the margin notched and curled. This variety is not so early 
as the preceding kinds, but it is more hardy, and is particularly 
suitable for an autumn crop. 

Golden-heart Curled Summer Endive. — A vigorous, hardy, 

and productive kind, re- 
sembling the Meaux En- 
dive in size and general 
features. Its centre is 
very dense and full, and 
turns to yellow, which 
gives it the appearance 
of having been artificially 
blanched. 

Picpus Curled En- 
dive. — This kind is nearly 
the same size as the 
Meaux Endive, the 
diameter of the rosette being from 14 to 16 in., but the leaves 
are far more finely cut, and the heart of the rosette is fuller 
and firmer. The two varieties differ remarkably in the formation 




Green Fine-curled Winter Endive 
(i natural size). 



300 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Picpus Curled Endive natural size). 



of the terminal part of 
the leaf. In the Picpus 
variety, this is very 
narrow and almost re- 
duced to a midrib ; 
while in the other kind 
it has some degree of 
width. The midrib or 
stalk of the Picpus also 
is much narrower, is 
without the rosy tinge, 
and only furnished here 
and there with leafy 
appendages, which give 
it a very peculiar ap- 
pearance. The Picpus 
is a very good and 
hardy kind of Endive, 



^^^^^ 



and is well adapted for open-air culture. 

Green Curled Upright Endive (C/n'cor^e Grosse Pancaliere).— 
Resembles the Meaux Endive in shape and leaves, but it is 
earlier, more erect, and so dense in the centre that the crowded 
mass of foliage blanches 
of itself. The midribs of 
the leaves are tinged 
with rose, by which it is 
easily distinguished from 
the Ruffec Endive, which 
also forms compact tufts. 
For its rapidity of growth 
and productiveness it is 
much grown for salads, 
etc. 

Rouen or Stag's 
Horn Endive. — A hand- 
some and very distinct 
variety, forming a very 
full rosette, 14 to 16 in. 
in diameter. The leaves 
are not so finely divided, 
nor are the divisions so 
much curled, as in the 
preceding varieties ; they 
are also of a duller and 
grayer colour. The mid- 
rib is thick, but very 




Green Curled Upright Endive. 



I 



ENDIVE 



301 




Rouen, or Stag's Horn, Endive (-1 natural size). 



narrow, and entirely white. This is one of the kinds which are 
most extensively cultivated at Paris, and throucrh all the north 
of France. It is particu- 
larly well adapted for 
open-air culture, and, being 
hardy, yields a crop until 
late in autumn. 

Louviers Endive.— 
This variety, which seems 
to be derived from the 
preceding kind, is very 
distinct and good. The 
plant forms a rosette, 
which is not so broad as 
the Stag's-horn variety, 
but is fuller, more compact, 
and more convex. The 
leaves are paler in colour, 
but the divisions are more 
regular and narrower. The 
heart of the rosette is remarkably dense, so that plants of this 
variety, though occupying less space than those of the preceding 
kind, yield quite as heavy a crop. In consequence of the 
almost hemispherical form of the rosette, it contains a greater 
number of blanched leaves, in proportion to its size, than any 
other variety ; so that, bulk for bulk, it yields a larger amount 

of useful produce. 

After several trials, we 
have not been able to detect 
any difference between the 
Louviers Endive and the 
Guillande Endive^ a variety 
much in favour in Normandy. 

Ruffec Green Curled 
Endive. — Rosette very large, 
often 16 to 18 in. in diameter, 
at first sight slightly resem- 
bling that of the Moss-curled 
variety, but more tufty, and 
fuller in the centre. The 
midrib of the leaf is very 
white and thick, very tender 
and fleshy, nearly an inch 
broad, but looking much 
broader on account of the blanching of a large portion of the 
blade of the leaf the remainder of which is cut and curled 




Louviers Endive natural size). 



302 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



almost like the ?yIoss-curled variety. The Ruff-ec is one of the 
best kinds for open-air culture, and is equally suitable for 




Ruffec Green Curled Endive (| natural size). 



summer and autumn. We do not know any other variety which 
bears cold weather so well, and we have seen it in the open 
ground, simply covered with leaves^ surviving winters in v;hich 

all other kinds perished. 
^w^^Y^ Imperial Curled 

^ ^^fsT"^^ Endive.— A handsome 
^ " curled variety, forming 
a broad, tall, and well- 
furnished rosette, and 
resembling the preceding 
kind more than any 
other variety. It differs 
from it, however, in the 
lighter colour of the 
leaves, which are also 
less finely cut, but have 
the segments very much 
curled and folded. This 
variety is especially 
noticeable in that its 
leaves do not exhibit a 
bare midrib at the 
bottom, like those of 
other varieties, but run 
down to the very ground, 
where they are from i in. to nearly if in. broad. They are also 
perfectly white for at least one-half their length. 




Imperial Curled Endive. 



ENDIVE 



303 




Moss-curled Endive natural size). 



Moss-curled Endive. — Rosette rather small, seldom exceeding 
10 or 12 in. in diameter, and not often very compact. Leaves 
rather dark green, very much 
cut, curled, and crisped, 
so that it is difficult to 
distinguish one leaf from 
another, and the whole plant 
resembles a tuft of Moss. 
The midribs of the leaves 
are narrow and very white. 
Not a very productive 
variety, but sometimes in 
request on account of its 
peculiar appearance. As 
it occupies but little space, 
it can be grown under bell- 
glasses, x^nother equally 
dense thick-set variety is 
sometimes met with under 
the name of the S/iort 
Bell-glass Endive. This appears to be intermediate between the 
Moss-curled and the Small Green Curled Summer Endive, 
coming nearer, however, to the latter. 

White Moss-curled Endive.— Very distinct, not exceeding 
12 or 13 in. in diameter; with broad ribs, slightly tinged with 

rose, and leaves finely cut 
and curled, and light green, 
except at the heart, which 
is white with a golden 
tinge. Not very produc- 
tive, but a handsome plant 
and of excellent flavour. 

Ever-white Curled 
Endive. — Rosette not very 
dense nor well furnished, 
14 to 16 in. in diameter ; 
midrib of the leaf yellow, 
and tinged with rose ; 
leaves very pale in hue, 
having the appearance of 
being artificially blanched. 
This peculiar colour is the 
chief distinction of the 
plant, as it is neither very 
productive nor of particularly good quality; yet it is always 
welcomed in the markets on account of its blanched appearance. 




White Moss-curled Endive. 



304 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Ever-White Curled Endive natural size). 



into narrow strips, 
which become much 
entangled as they 
grow and form a 
bulky and compact 
head weighing a little 
over 2 lb. Its appear- 
ance seems to confirm 
the opinion that it is 
a cross between the 
Common Endive of 
the south and the 
curled Stag's - horn 
Endive. It is not to 
be recommended for 
the north of France, 
not being hardy 
enough. 

I ntermediate 
Bordeaux Endive. — 
About Bordeaux 
there is a variety 
grown under thename 
of Bastard Endive 
with broadly cut 



Another variety of 
White Curled Endive, in 
which the leaves are 
wavy and curled rather 
than much divided, was 
formerly in cultivation, 
but it has been super- 
seded by the present very 
finely cut variety. 

Curled Christmas 
Endive. — A very inter- 
esting variety grown for 
some years past in the 
vicinity of Saint-Remy de 
Provence and Chateau- 
Renard, for winter use. 
The outer leaves are 
simply cut and curled 
at the edges, while the 
inner leaves are deeply 
laciniated and divided 




Curled Christmas Endive. 



ENDIVE 



305 



leaves. It forms the connecting link between the Curled-leaved 
and the Broad-leaved, or Batavian, varieties. It is chiefly in- 
teresting for having given birth to the following variety. 

Queen of the Winter Endive. — A new variety, half way 
between the Broad-leaved, or Batavian, and the Curled Endives. 




Queen of the Winter Endive. 



The leaves are broadly lobated rather than cut. It is hardy, or 
almost so, in the climate of Paris. Raised from seed of the 
Bordeaux Bastard Endive grown for several years at Geneva, it is 
a decided improvement upon the original form. 

Broad-leaved, or Batavian, Endive (French, Chicoree-Scarole 
Ronde). — Rosette broad, often 16 in. in diameter ; leaves entire, 
toothed at the edges and more or less twisted or waved, with broad, 
thick white midribs. The central leaves, being partially turned 
inwards, serve to cover 
and protect the heart of 
the plant, thus forming a 
sort of a very dwarf head. 
When the plant is in 
this condition, the French 
gardeners say that it is 
" bouclel' or " curled." 
When well grown and 
artificially blanched in the 
manner described at the 
commencement of this 
article, this plant forms 
one of the best winter salads. The blanched inner leaves are 
particularly tender and crisp, and have a fine and very agreeable 
flavour. This variety is far more extensively cultivated than any 
other kind. ' ' 




Broad-leaved, or Batavian, Endive {\ natural size). 



20 



306 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Broad-leaved Limay Endive. 



B r o a d - 1 eaved 
Limay Endive. — 

Leaves very large, and 
in a rosette of palish 
green, puckered, entire, 
the inner ones cut into 
rather deep but not 
very numerous lobes, 
very much puckered^ 
and forming a stout 
head. This is a larger 
variety than the 
Common Broad-leaved 
kind, to which it is 
preferred in some locali- 
ties near Paris, with- 
out any very apparent 
reason. 

White Batavian 
Endive. — Rosette 
rather broader than that 



of the Common Broad-leaved kind, but not so full, and especially 
remarkable for the very pale colour of the leaves. This variety 
heads to a much less extent than any other kind, and is usually 
cut when young, before 
it is fully grown. It 
is less hardy than the 
Common Broad - leaved 
kind, and more liable to 
be spoiled by damp, but 
on account of its light 
colour it is in much re- 
quest for sal^. It is 
chiefly grown for summer 
and autumn use, and by 
making successional sow- 
ings it can always be had 
tender. 

Hooded Batavian, or 
Hardy Green Winter, 
Endive {Chicoree en 
cornet), — This variety 
differs very much in ap- 
pearance from the other 
kinds of Endive, and 

even from the other white Batavian Endive natural size> 




ENDIVE 



307 



Broad-leaved kinds. Its leaves are fewer, but much larger, being 
almost as broad as long, and cut at the edges into numerous 
long teeth. The midrib appears to branch from the base of 
the leaf, over which it 
diverges in all directions. 
The leaf, which is at first 
folded up in the centre 
of the plant, opens out 
as it grows, like a twisted 
paper bag unfolding it- 
self ; frequently it forms 
a kind of hood, which 
continues to envelop the 
younger leaves for a 
considerable time, thus 
producing a genuine head. 
If the plant were im- 
proved in this direction, 
it would afford an excellent winter salad, as it is hardy and with- 
stands ordinary winters in the climate of Paris when protected 
with a covering of leaves or straw mats. It is especially suitable 
for the west and south of France. It is possible that, by attention 
and perseverance, a sub-variety may be raised from this plant with 
a perfect head like that of a Lettuce or a Cabbage, but it is to be 
feared that it is not quite hardy enough for the northern and 
central districts of France. 

The Bordeaux Hooded Batavian Endive differs from the 
-preceding only by its deeper cut foliage. It is much grown in the 
south-west of France. 

White Var Batavian Endive. — A large, compact rosette of 
broad-toothed leaves, with thick ribs and of a light ashy green, 
more deeply cut than those of the Green and the White Batavian 
Endive. For winter cultivation in Provence it has superseded all 
other varieties. Sown at intervals from August to October, it 
produces fair-sized plants during the whole winter. 

EVENING PRIMROSE 

(Enothera biennis, L. Onagracece. 

French, Enothfere bisannuelle, Onagre. German, Rapuntica. Flemish, Ezelskruid. 

Italian, Rapontica. 

Native of Peru. — Biennal. — A plant with a rather thick, long 
tap-root, the flesh of which is white and firm. Radical leaves 
growing in a rosette, stalked, obovate or elliptic in shape, sinuate- 
toothed at the base ; stems erect, branching, over 3 ft. in height, 
bearing lanceolate leaves which are more or less narrowed into 




Hardy Green Winter Batavian Endive. 



308 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




the leaf-stalk ; flowers yellow, large, in leafy terminal clusters ; 
seed-vessels long, furrowed, narrowed at both ends ; seeds small, 

brown, with five or six flat facets. 
Their germinating power lasts for 
three y^ars. The culture and uses of 
this plant are almost the same as those 
of the Salsafy. It is more, however, 
as a curiosity that we mention it, 
although its rather tender and fleshy 
root is sometimes used as a table 
vegetable. It should be employed 
for this purpose at the end of the first 
year of its growth, when the plant 
has put forth only one rosette of 
leaves. 

FENNEL 

U mbellifercB. 

French^ Fenouil. German, Fenchel. Flemish 
and Dutch, Venkel. Danish, Fennikel. 
Italian, Finocchio. Spa7iish, Hinojo. 

Native of Southern Europe. — 
Perennial. — The following three plants of the genus Foenicidum 
are in cultivation, and most authors are agreed in thinking that 
each of them should be referred to a difl"erent botanical species. 

Common Wild, or Bitter, Fennel {Foeiticulum vulgare, Gaertn.). 
— Perennial. — Rather common in France in the wild state. Leaves 
very much divided into thread-like segments ; leaf-stalks broad, . 
almost membranous, clasping the stem, which is smooth, hollow, 
and about 5 ft. high ; flowers green, in broad, terminal umbels ; 
seeds long, round at both ends, and retaining the remains of the 
withered stigma, dark gray in colour, with five ribs, three of which 
are on the back of the seed, and one at each side. Their germi- 
nating power lasts for four years. This plant requires no attention. 
It is perennial and hardy to such a degree that it is often found 
growing on old walls, rubbish-heaps, etc. Sometimes, but rarely, 
the leaves are used for seasoning. The plant is chiefly grown for 
its seeds, which are often used in the manufacture of liqueurs. 

Common Garden, or Long Sweet, Fennel {Fceniculum 
officinale^ All. ; Anethum Fceniculum, L. Fenouil Doux). — Native of 
Southern Europe. — Biennial, or annual in cultivation. — Although 
this plant bears some resemblance to the Wild Fennel, it differs 
from it in having much stouter stems, and the leaves much less 
divided, the segments being also of larger size, and of a more 
glaucous green. It also differs in the remarkable size of the leaf- 
stalk, the sides of which spread and are curved in such a manner 



FENNEL 



309 



as to sheath part of the stem and even the base of the leaf above 
it. Flowers gieen, in broader umbels than those of the Wild 
Fennel, and with stouter and stiffer rays ; seeds at least twice as 
long as those of the wild kind, flat on one side and convex on the 
other, traversed by five thick yellowish ribs, which occupy almost 
the entire surface of the skin. Their germinating power lasts for 
four years. 

Culture. — The seed is sown in drills during summer, but 
genera.lly it is sown in autumn, in order to have the crop come in 
during the following spring. It is chiefly used raw as a side dish ; 
the seeds are also used in the manufacture of liqueurs. 

This is the famous " Carosella,'' so extensively used in Naples, 
and scarcely known in any other place ; the plant is used while in 
the act of running to bloom ; the stems, fresh and tender, are 
broken and served up raw, still enclosed in the expanded leaf- 
stalks. They are esteemed a great delicacy, and by means of 
successional sowings the Italian gardeners are able to send it to 
market almost all the year round. 

Finocchio, or Florence Fennel {Fcemculum dulce, D.C.). — 
— Native of Italy. — Annual. — A very distinct, low-growing, and 
thick-set plant, with a very short 
stem, which has the joints very 
close together towards the base. 
Leaves large, very finely cut, and 
light green ; leaf-stalks very broad, 
of a whitish green hue, overlap- 
ping one another at the base of 
the stem, the whole forming a 
kind of head or enlargement 
varying in size from that of a 
hen's egg to that of the fist, firm, 
white, and sweet inside. The 
greatest height of the plant, even 
when run to seed, does not exceed 
from 2 to about 2|- ft. The 
flower umbels are large, with thick 
rays, which have a mild, sweet 
flavour. Seeds oblong, very broad in proportion to their length, 
flat on one side and convex on the other, with five prominent 
ribs, in the intervals between which the gray colour of the seed 
is well shown. Their germinating power lasts for four years. 

Culture and Uses. — The seed is usually sown in spring for 
a summer crop, and towards the end of summer for a late autumn 
crop, in warm countries. It is sown in rows 16 to 20 in. apart. 
All the attention required is to thin out the seedlings so as to have 
them 5 or 6 in. apart, and to water the plants as often and as 




Finocchio, or Florence Fennel 
{\ natural size). 



310 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



plentifully as possible. When the head or enlargement of the 
leaf-stalks at the base of the stem has attained about the size of a 
hen's egg, it may be slightly earthed up so as to cover half of it, 
and in about ten days afterwards cutting for use may be commenced 
with the most forward plant, and continued as each plant advances 
in growth. The plant is usually eaten boiled. In flavour it some- 
what resembles Celery, but with a sweet taste and a more delicate 
odour. Up to the present time, it is not much used in France, but 
it deserves to be more extensively cultivated. 



FENNEL FLOWER 

Nigella sativa^ L. Ranunculacece. 

French, Nigelle aromatique. German, Schwarz-Kiiminel. Flemish and Dutch, 
Narduszaad. Spanish, Neguilla. 

Native of the East. — Annual. — An erect-growing plant, with 
a stiff, somewhat hairy, and branching stem. Leaves very deeply 

cut into linear segments, and 
of a gray- green colour ; flowers 
terminal, pale or gray-blue, 
succeeded by toothed seed- 
vessels filled with almost 
triangular seeds, which are 
rough-skinned, black, and have 
rather a strong aromatic flavour. 
Their germinating power lasts 
for three years. There is a 
variety with yellow seeds, but 
resembling the type in every 
other respect. The seed is 
sown in April or May, and 
preferably in light, warm soil. 
The plants require no attention 
while growing, and the seed 
ripens towards August. The 
ripe seeds are used for seasoning 
in various culinary preparations. 
In Germany the name of Schwarz-Kiimmel is also applied to 
the seeds of the single-flowered Nigella damascena. 




Fennel Flower (flower and seed-vessel, 
\ natural size). 



COMMON GARLIC 

Alliujn sativum^ L. Liliacece. 

French, Ail ordinaire. German, Gewohnlicher Knoblauch. Flemish, Look. Dutch, 
Knoflook. Da7tish, Hvidlog. Italian, Aglio. Spanish, Ajo vulgar. Portuguese, Alho. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — A bulbous plant, all 
the parts of which, and especially the underground portion, have 



COMMON GARLIC 



3" 



a very strong and well-known burning taste. The bulbs or heads 
are composed of about ten cloves, enveloped by a very thin white 
or rose-coloured membranous skin. The plant hardly ever flowers 
in the climate of Paris at 
least, and is propagated 
exclusively by means of 
the cloves, for which pur- 
pose those on the outside 
of the head should be 
selected, in preference to 
the inner ones, which are 
not so well developed. 

Culture. — At Paris 
the cloves are usually 
planted as soon as winter 
is over. Sometimes, 
especially in the south of 
France, they are planted 
in October for an early 
deep, well-drained soil. 




Common Garlic (J natural size). 



summer crop. The plant likes rich, 
In damp soils, or when watered too 
much, it often rots. When the stem is fully grown, gardeners 
are in the habit of twisting it into a knot, in order to increase 
the size of the bulbs. After the stems have withered, the bulbs 
are taken up, and will keep well from one year to another. 
The Common Garlic is the most grown. The membranous skin 
or covering of the bulbs is of a silvery white colour. 



Plant the cloves {i.e. the separated 
portions of the bulbs) in shallow 
drills about i ft. asunder, and 6 in. 
apart in the row, covering them 
with soil to the depth of i or 2 in. ; 
or plant whole bulbs i ft. apart eacn 
way, and never deep, as wet is apt 
to get down among the cloves, 
causing canker and mildew. Merely 
stretch a line or measure . take the 
bulbs by the neck and press them 
half or, say, two-thirds into the soil ; 
then drop a pinch of fine sifted 
cinder-ashes over them, to prevent 



worms from drawing them out of 
the ground. February is about the 
best season to plant them. A small 
quantity may be planted in autumn, 
if it be desired to have a stock early 
the following season. From this 
autumnal or, to speak more pre- 
cisely, October planting, bulbs may 
be taken up for use early in the, 
succeeding summer. Any time after 
the leaves turn yellow the crop may 
be taken up and dried, hanging it 
up in bunches by the stalks in any 
airy room. 



Uses. — In southern countries Garlic is very much used in 
cookery, but it is not so highly esteemed in the countries of the 
north. It is only just to say, however, that, when grown in cold 
climates, it has a stronger and more biting or burning flavour than 
it has in warm, countries. 



312 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Early Pink Garlic. — This is an earlier variety than the 
Common Garlic, and is also distinguished from it by the pink or 
rosy colour of the skin which covers the head. About Paris, this 
variety is almost always planted in autumn, as it is said not to 
succeed well if planted in spring. 

Red Garlic. — A variety cultivated in almost all parts of 
France, but especially in the eastern provinces. It is remarkable 
for the size of its bulbs, which are rather flat, and composed of 
short and thick cloves of a purple-red colour. These cloves 
separate from each other at the upper end of the head by tearing 
their membranous cover. The cloves of the Red Garlic are much 
larger than those of the White Garlic. The Red Garlic requires 
also a richer and more substantial soil. 

Some years ago, a variety came into notice, under the name 
of Ail Rond du Limousin. This did not appear to us to differ 
appreciably from the Common Garlic, from which round heads or 
bulbs can always be obtained by planting late in the season ; and, 
if these heads are replanted entire in the following year, they will 
produce heads of enormous size. 

Great-headed Garlic {Allium Ampeloprasum, L. Ail d' Orient), 
— Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — This plant produces a 
very large head or bulb, composed of cloves, in the same way as 
that of the Common Garlic, but of milder flavour. The stem, 
leaves, and flowers are so like those of the Leek that there is every 
reason to think that both plants have originated from the same 
type, and have been differently modified by cultivation, the bulb 
in the one case and the stem in the other having been the subject 
of improvement. When Leeks produce cloves, which occurs pretty 
often, these cloves are exactly like those of the Great-headed 
Garlic. The flowers, which grow in a large round head, yield 
fertile seeds, but the plant is most usually propagated by means of 
the cloves, this being a speedier method. The culture and uses are 
the same as those of the preceding kinds. 

ROCAMBOLE 

* Alliu7n Scorodoprasum, L. 

French, Ail Rocambole. German, Roccambol. Danish, Rokambol. Italian, Aglie 
d'India, Portuguese, Alho de Hespanha. 

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — The stem, which is 
twisted spirally in the upper part, bears at the top a cluster of 
bulblets, from which the plant may be propagated ; they are 
seldom, however, used for this purpose, as more speedy results are 
obtained by planting the cloves of the underground bulb. The 
cloves should be planted in autumn, or not later than February, in 
rows about 12 in. apart, leaving about 3^ in. between the plants^ 
Its uses are the same as those of the Common Garlic. 



ANNUAL GOOSEFOOT OR WHITE QUINOA 313 



ANNUAL GOOSEFOOT or WHITE QUINOA 

Chenopodium Quinoa^ Willd. Chenopodiacece. 

French^ Anserine Quinoa blanc. German, Peruanischer Reis-Spinat. 

Native of Peru. — Annual. — Stem 4 to 6 ft. high ; leaves arrow- 
shaped, divided into three not very deep lobes, smooth, glaucous, 
mealy, and of thin texture ; flowers small, green, in compact 
corymbs; seeds round and flat, small and white. Their germinating 
power lasts for four years. 

Culture. — The plant is grown in the same way as Orache. 
The seed is sown in April, where the plants are to stand. The 
young plants should be thinned out 8 in. apart every way, and 
plentifully watered in hot weather, which is the only attention they 
require. The seed ripens in August or September. 

Uses. — The leaves are eaten like Spinach. In Peru the seeds 
are used in soups, cakes, and also for making a kind of beer. 
Before they are used for any of these purposes, they should be 
subjected to a preliminary boiling, in order to remove the acrid 
principle which they contain, and which, if allowed to remain, 
would render the flavour very unpleasant. 

PERENNIAL GOOSEFOOT or GOOD KING HENRY 

Chenopodium Bonus-Henricus, L. Chenopodiacece. 

French, Anserine Bon-Henri. German, Gemeiner Gansefuss. Flemish and Dtitch, 
Ganzevoet. Italian, Bono Enrico. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Stem about 2J ft. high, smooth, 
slightly channelled ; leaves alternate, long-stalked, arrow-shaped, 
undulated, smooth, and dark green, frosted or mealy on the under- 
surface, rather thick and fleshy ; flowers small, green, in close, 
compact clusters ; seeds black, small, kidney-shaped. Their ger- 
minating power lasts for five years. 

Culture and Uses. — This plant, being perennial and 
extremely hardy, will grow and yield abundantly for several years, 
without any attention except the occasional use of the hoe. It is 
easily raised from seed, which is best sown in spring, either where 
the plants are to stand or, preferably, in a seed-bed. In the latter 
case, the seedlings are pricked out once before they are permanently 
planted out 16 in. apart every way. The leaves are eaten like 
Spinach, and it has been suggested to use the shoots, like 
Asparagus, as a very early vegetable, blanched by simply earthing 
them up. 

An excellent vegetable for Eng- almost every garden having its bed, 
land, and deserves to be more which, if placed in a warm corner 
generally planted. It is extensively and well manured, yields an abun- 
grown by the Lincolnshire farmers, dant supply of delicious shoots a 



314 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



fortnight before Asparagus comes 
in, and for some weeks after- 
wards. From a south border cut- 
ting generally commences early in 
April, and continues until the end 
of June. Some say they like it 
better than Asparagus. When pro- 
perly grown, the young shoots should 
be almost as thick as the little 
finger, and in gathering it should 
be cut under the ground some- 
thing the same as Asparagus. In 
preparing it for use, if the outer 
skin or bark have become tough, 
strip it off from the bottom upwards, 
and then wash and tie it up in 
bunches like Asparagus. It is best 



boiled in plenty of water. When 
tender, strain and serve simply, or 
upon toast. Some have melted 
butter with it, others eat it simply 
with the gravy and meat. In cul- 
tivation, the Mercury, as it is called 
also, will grow anywhere ; but, to 
have it in the best form, good cul- 
tivation is necessary. To this end 
you cannot have the ground too 
deep nor too rich; plant as early 
in the spring as possible to get an 
abundant yield of shoots, and to 
get them as strong as possible. In 
planting, put the rows i8 in. apart, 
and the plants i ft. apart in the row. 
It is wild in some parts of England. 



GOURDS 

Cucurbita, L. CucurbitacecB. 

French, Courges. German, Speise-Kiirbiss. Flemish and Dutch, Pompoen. Danish, 
Grceskar. Italian, Zucca. Spanish, Calabaza. Portuguese, Abobora. 

The cultivation of Gourds dates from a very early period, and 
few vegetables are more extensively grown. The almost innumer- 
able varieties of them which are met with have long since induced 
the conclusion that they could not all have possibly originated from 
a single type, but to M. Charles Naudin belongs the credit of having 
first thrown light upon the chaos of species and varieties, and of 
having ascertained the origin and parentage of the different forms, 
all of which he refers to three very distinct species, viz. Cucurbita 
7naxiina, Duch., C. moscJiata, Duch., and C. Pepo, L. We shall 
describe in succession the varieties which have sprung from each of 
these different botanical types, following the classification of 
M. Naudin, and we may remark that we do not know any form 
of Gourd that should necessarily be considered a hybrid between 
any two of these species. Although the various forms of cultivated 
Gourds have, as we have just observed, originated from plants 
which differ in their botanical characteristics and also in their 
native habitats, they nevertheless, in their mode of growth and in 
their fruit, exhibit a striking resemblance, from which it is easy to 
understand how it was that they were for a long time supposed to 
be mere varieties of a single species. They are all annual climbing 
plants, furnished with tendrils ; their stems are perfectly herbaceous, 
very long, pliant, and tough, angular and rough ; the leaves are 
broad, with hollow stalks, and roundish or kidney-shaped lobes 



GOURDS 



315 



sometimes more or less incised or deeply cut ; the flowers are 
large, yellow, and monoecious ; and the fruit is round or elongated, 
almost always ribbed, and with the seeds in a central cavity, 
surrounded by usually thick flesh. The plants grow very rapidly, 
and heat is indispensable for their development. Being originally 
natives of warm climates, they cannot be sown in France before 
May without the aid of artificial heat, and their growth is com- 
pletely stopped by the early frosts, which make havoc of all 
their green parts. 

Culture. — The seed is usually sown in the open ground in 
May. In order to forward the growth, round or square holes, of 
various widths and about 20 in. deep, are filled with manure, upon 
which is placed a layer of soil or compost from 6 to 8 in. thick. In 
this the seed is sown, two or three seeds being usually given to 
each hole. The space to be left between the plants varies according 
as the variety grown is of a more or less spreading habit of growth. 
For an early crop, the seed may either be sown in a hot-bed and 
the seedlings pricked out into another hot-bed before they are 
finally planted out, or it may be sown in pots placed on a hot-bed 
in which the plants are left until they are finally planted out. 
When very large fruit are desired, only two or three should be left 
on each plant, the best being selected, and the branches should be 
cut a few leaves beyond the last fruit. The readiness with which 
the stems of Gourds take root may also be turned to account by 
covering those stems which bear the finest fruit here and there 
with soil at the joints, where they soon strike root, especially 
if watered now and then, if needful. The effect of this is to 
increase the size of the fruit, in consequence of the additional 
supply of nutriment. 

Uses. — The fruit, whether young or fully grown, is cooked and 
sent to table in an infinite variety of ways, and there are also some 
varieties which are eaten raw, like Cucumbers. The only Gourd 
generally cultivated in England is the Vegetable Marrow, and the 
importance and value of the others, especially the keeping kinds 
grown in America and France, deserve to be better known here. 

I. Cucurbita maxima, Duch., and Varieties 

This species is the parent of the largest-sized Gourds ; amongst 
others, of those known by the name of Pumpkins. All the cultivated 
varieties of Cucurbita maxima exhibit in common the following 
characteristics : The leaves are large, kidney-shaped, rounded, and 
never deeply divided ; the numerous stiff hairs which cover all the 
green parts of the plant never become spiny ; the segments of the 
calyx are united for a certain portion of their length, and the whole 
of this portion is devoid of well-marked ribs and presents only a 



3i6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



few veins or nerves ; the segments of the calyx are narrowed from 
the base to the extremity ; lastly, the stalk of the fruit is always 
roundish and without ribs, often thickens considerably after the 
flower has fallen, becomes cracked, and sometimes attains a 
diameter twice or three times that of the stem. The seeds are 
rather variable in size and colour, but always very smooth. Their 
germinating power lasts for six years. The principal varieties 
which have sprung from Cucurbita maxima are the following : — 

PUMPKINS 

French, Potirons. Gorman, Melonen-i?(^^r-Centner-Kurbiss. Danish, Centner-Groeskar. 
Italian, Zucca. Spanish, Calabaza totanera. 

Under this name, which does not correspond to any botanical 
division, are grouped a certain number of varieties of Cucurbita 

maxima which are re- 
markable for the great 
size of their fruit. In 
France they are grown 
on a large scale for 
market, and also on 
farms for home use. At 
the Central Market in 
Paris Pumpkins may 
often be seen which 
weigh over a hundred- 
weight each. 

Large Yellow 
Pumpkin. — Stems 
climbing, from i6 to 
nearly 20 ft. long; leaves 
very large, round, or 
with five faintly marked 
angles, and of a dark 
green colour ; fruit very 
much flattened at the 
ends, and with well- 
marked ribs ; skin of a 
salmon - yellow colour, 
and slightly cracked or 
netted when ripe ; flesh 
yellow, thick, fine flavoured, sweet, and keeping good for a long 
time. In the United States, under the name of Connecticut Field 
Pu7npkin, a variety is grown which resembles the present one, 
except in having a somewhat finer skin. 




PUMPKINS 



317 



Globe Mammoth Pumpkin.— In 

resembles that of the preceding sort. 



some respects the fruit 
The colour is the same, 




Globe Mammoth Pumpkin. 

but it is spherical in shape. In size it surpasses it, however, 
and attains enormous dimensions. The flesh is yellow and delicate 
and^keeps well during winter. 

Etampes Pumpkin. — Fruit of medium size, not so broad 
as that of the Large 
Yellow Pumpkin, but 
relatively thicker ; ribs 
broad and well marked; 
skin a very bright and 
distinct orange colour. 
The cultivation of this 
variety has been very 
much extended of late 
years, and it is now 
the kind which is most 
frequently seen in the 
Central Market at Paris. 
In its habit of growth 
it resembles the Large 
Yellow Pumpkin, but 

its leaves are rather Etampes Pumpkin (^V natural size). 

paler. There are two 

forms of it, one of which has the fruit quite smooth. This we 
consider to be truer to name than the other form, which has the skin 




3i8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



of the fruit more or less cracked and netted, 
the latter, saying that it has thicker flesh. 




Nicaise Pumpkin. 



Spanish Gourd or Pumpkin.— Stems 
of medium size, roundish, of a dark 
ash colour : fruit of medium size 



Some cultivators prefer 
It appears to us to be a 
reversion towards the 
Large Yellow variety. 

Nicaise Pumpkin. 
— A reduced form of 
the preceding, and 
rougher and more 
netted. Each plant can 
produce three or four 
small fruit, which for 
the use of small families 
is more convenient than 
two large fruit. 

Large Green 
Pumpkin. — Fruit 
large, rather flattened^ 
with a dark green skin^ 
which is often cracked 
or netted when ripe. 
It is a good hardy 
variety, but the follow^ 
ing kind is now rather 
more in favour. 
10 to 13 ft. long ; leaves 
green slightly tinged with 
or even small, very much 



flattened, hollowed on both ends ; skin green, often very finely 
netted, which gives it a 
gray tint ; flesh bright 
yellow, very thick, and 
keeping good for a very 
long time. This excellent 
variety, which is in very 
great demand in the 
markets, has the advantage 
of producing fruit of a 
moderate size, which are 
generally more convenient 
for family use than the 
very large kinds, which 
often become spoiled before 
the whole of them can be 
eaten, all kinds of Gourds 

being very difficult to keep after the skin is cut. 
the plant will carry two or three fruit well. 




Spanish Gourd or Pumpkin. 



When growing. 



PUMPKINS 



319 



Boulogne Gray 
Pumpkin. — The size of 
this fine variety approaches 
that of the old Large 
Green Pumpkin, but in 
the colour and appearance 
of the skin, and the 
quality of the flesh, it 
resembles the Spanish 
Gourd. The plant is of 
vigorous growth, pretty /, 
early, and very productive, [| 
with large broad leaves, 
and fruit which are often 
from 2j to 3 ft. across, 
and about half as thick. 
The skin is a dark olive 
colour, sometimes a little 
bronzy on the side next 
the sun, and marked with 
longitudinal bands of a 
slightly paler colour; the 
great number of very fine 





Large Bronze- coloured Montlhery Pumpkin. 



Boulogne Gray Pumpkin natural size). 

whole surface is also covered with a 
short parallel lines, which give it the 
gray tmt from which the 
variety is named. The 
flesh is yellow, thick, and 
floury. The fruit of this 
variety keeps at least 
as long as that of the 
Etampes Pumpkin. It 
was raised a few years ago 
at Boulogne - sur - Seine, 
and has come extensively 
into cultivation, being in 
high repute with the 
market-gardeners about 
Paris. 

Large Bronze- 
coloured Montlhery 
Pumpkin. — Stem trail- 
ing, from 16 to 18 ft. long. 
Leaves numerous, erect, 
large, lobate, and intensely 
green. The fruit is rouncJ, 
with well - marked ribs 
and dark greenish brown 



320 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



skin ; flesh a beautiful yellow, and of excellent quality. It ripens 
rather later than ^ the varieties described above, and keeps well 
long after the Etampes Pumpkin has disappeared from the 
market. 

Warted Marrow Squash. — A vigorous plant, with stems from 
13 to over 16 ft. long. Large leaves, dark green, round, or some- 
times undulated in outline. This 
variety, raised in the neighbour- 
hood of Bordeaux, is evidently 
very closely allied to the Turk's 
Cap or Turban Gourd, but differs 
from it in some very marked 
characteristics. In the first place, 
the enlargement in the upper part 
of the fruit is very slight, and 
sometimes altogether wanting; and 
in the next, the whole surface of 
the skin, when ripe, is covered with 
corky excrescences, somewhat like those seen on the skin of 
Netted Melons. This gives the variety a very distinct character. 
The flesh of the fruit is orange-coloured, very thick and sweet, 
and of excellent quality. 

Chestnut Squash. — A vigorous plant, with stems from 13 to 
over 16 ft. long. Leaves round, entire, usually undulated at the 
edges. This is an excellent variety, with medium-sized or small 
fruit, somewhat flattened at 
the ends, but not concave, 
as Pumpkins often are. 
Ribs barely defined, or 




Waited Marrow Squash 
natural size). 



altogether 



skin 




smooth, of an intense brick- 
red colour ; flesh deep 
yellow, very thick, sweet, 
floury, and keeping well. 
A plant may carry three 
or four fruit well. 

Valparaiso Squash. — 
Stems trailing, from 16 to 
nearly 20 ft. long. Leaves 
entire, somewhat elongated, 
toothed and spiny at the 
edges, of a clear green colour, sometimes silvery gray on the 
upper surface ; fruit oblong, narrowed at both ends, about 16 to 
20 in. long, and 12 to 14 in. in diameter in its widest part, and 
shaped something like a Lemon ; ribs faintly defined, or altogether 
wanting ; skin white, slightly tinged with gray, covered, when ripe, 



Chestnut Squash (|- natural size). 



PUMPKINS 



321 



with a great number of 
small cracks or very fine 
tracings ; flesh orange- 
coloured, sweet, and of 
-delicate flavour. A plant, 
unless it is exceptionally 
strong, should not be 
allowed to carry more 
than two fruit. These 
often weigh from 27 to 
33 lb. each, and even more, 
and are rather difiicult 
to keep. 

Prolific Early 
Marrow. — A distinct and 
very interesting variety, 
in shape like the Hubbard ^ 
Squash, but with the 
colour of the Chestnut 
Squash. A trailing plant, 
not usually more than 
6 to 8 ft. in length, it 
branches out very little, 
and ceases altogether early 
in the season, after having 
produced three or four fruit 




The 



of any other Squash, and keeps 




Prolific Eariy Marrow, 



Valparaiso Squash. 

fruit ripens earlier than those 
well into winter. They are 
not large, and seldom 
weigh more than 6h lb. 

Boston Marrow 
Squash. — Skin orange- 
red ; flesh salmon colour. 
Not quite so early as the 
Prolific Early Marrow, 
but in other respects 
differs little from it. 

Hubbard Squash. — 
A very vigorous-growing 
kind, with trailing, 
branching stems, often 
16 to nearly 20 ft. long. 
Leaves round, slightly 
sinuated, and very finely 
toothed at the edges. 
The fruit has a sHght 
resemblance to that of 

21 



322 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Hubbard Squash natural size). 



the Ohio Squash, but it is often shorter, more pointed at the 
stalk end, and is quite different in colour, being dark green, 

sometimes marbled with 
brick-red. The flesh is 
dark yellow, very floury, 
not very sweet, rather 
dry, and, in America, is 
considered to be of ex- 
cellent quality ; it also 
keeps good for a very 
long time. The skin is 
so hard and thick that 
it cannot always be cut 
with an ordinary knife. 
A plant will carry and 
ripen five or six fruit well. 

Warted Hubbard 
Squash. — Only differs 
from the Hubbard Squash 
in having the skin com- 
pletely covered with protuberances larger than in the type. 

Golden Hubbard Squash. — Differs from the type in being 
orange-red. 

Marble-head Squash. 
— Another American 
variety ; differs from the 
Hubbard only in being 
ashy gray. 

Olive Squash. — A 
vigorous variety, derived 
from C. maxima. The 
fruit weigh from 6 to 
II lb., and in shape and 
colour resemble an olive. 
The skin is smooth, the 
rind thin, and the flesh 
golden-yellow, firm, very 
abundant, and of fine 
quality. Its weak point is 
its lateness in the climate 
of Paris. 

Ohio Squash, or 
Californian Marrow. — A 
variety of American origin. 
Stem creeping, i6 to nearly 20 ft. long ; leaves entire, round, 
kidney-shaped, or with five faintly marked lobes, sometimes 




Olive Squash. 



PUMPKINS 



323 




wavy at the edges. The fruit_ somewhat resembles that of 
the Valparaiso Squash 
in shape, but is not sc 
long in proportion to its 
width, which is sometimes 
10 in., while the length 
seldom exceeds 12 to I4in. ; 
ribs very faintly marked ; 
skin almost quite smooth, 
of a light salmon - pink 
colour. The flesh is very 
floury, and in high repute 
in the United States, where 
this variety and the Hubbard 

Squash are two of the most Ohio Squash, or Calitornian Marrow a natural size). 

extensively grown kmds. 

A plant should not be allowed to carry more than three or 
four fruit 

Large Waited Portugal Squash. — Resembles the preceding, 

but is larger. Other points 
of difference are its bright 
orange-red colour and 
warted ribbed skin. The 
flesh is sweet, abundant, 
and a fine dark yellow. 

Mammoth Whale 
Gourd. — This is one of the 
largest Gourds of the series 
of the Cucurbita maxima, 
often measuring over a yard 
in length and weighing as 
much as I to i cwt. Its 
shape is long, thick in the 
middle and narrowed at 
both ends, especially at the 
stalk end. Its colour is 
gray-green. The flesh is a 
fine orange-yellow, and of 
excellent quality ; it keeps 
a long time. This Gourd 
appears to have been 
derived from a Pumpkin, 
^ but instead of being a 
Portugal Squash. g^obe shape, it lengthened 

out, the seed cavity being 
reduced to a small size, to the advantage of the fleshy part. 




324 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Turk's-cap, or Turban, Gourd.— A very distinct kind of 
Gourd, well known everywhere from its peculiar shape, for which 
it has received the common name of Turk's-cap, or Turban, 

Gourd. There is an 
almost infinite number 
of forms of it, all of 
the characteristic tur- 
ban shape, but differ- 
ing from one another 
in the size and colour 
of the fruit. The kind 
which is most com- 
monly grown, and 
'J which may be con- 
sidered the type of 
;y the variety, produces 
fruit weighing from 
^ about 6 to 9 lb. each, 
bearing on the end 
farthest from the stalk 
a cap-shaped enlarge- 
ment, w^hich is some- 
times hemispherical, 
and sometimes with 
four or five deeply 
cut ribs. The fruit is 
hardly ever uniform 
in colour, being often 
/ variegated in a variety 
' of ways, most fre- 
quently with dark 
green, yellow, and red. 
One of these colours 
is often absent, and 
sometimes the fruit is 
entirely of a dark 
green hue. The flesh 
is of a fine orange 
colour, and is thick, 
floury, and sweet. 
Small Chinese 




Mammoth Whale Squash. 



Turban Gourd.— Introduced from China by the authorities of 
the Museum of Natural History at Paris, it is a very distinct 
plant, and appear to possess a considerable degree of merit. It 
differs from the Gourds hitherto known in Europe, in the small 
size of its fruit, which do not usually exceed 2 or 3 lb. each 



PUMPKINS 



325 



in weight. They are generally of a bright red colour, marked 



longitudinally with yellow and dark green 
marked, but usually not 
very prominent. Flesh 
yellow, firm, floury, and 
sweet. A plant may 
carry ten fruit or even 
more. They ripen pretty 
early, and keep admirably. 



The crown is well 




lurk's-cap, or Turban, Gourd 
natural size). 




Small Chinese Turban Gourd (I natural size). 

kitchen-garden vegetables which we have 



This is one of the few 
received ready-made from China. 

Other Varieties of Cucurbita maxima 

Sometimes, under the name of Ccurge de Chypre (Cyprus, or 
Musk, Gourd), a variety is met with which is of medium size, 
slightly flattened, with very faintly marked ribs, and with a smooth 
gray skin, variegated or 
marbled with pale green 
or pink. This kind does 
well in the south of France, 
but is rather late for the 
climate of Paris. The same 
applies to the Vale7tcia 
Gourd, the fruit of which 
is larger, almost as thick 
as it is long, ribbed like a 
Melon, and ashy green. 
The Mission Gourd is a 
small milky white variety, 
flattened, with numerous 
prominent ribs. It weighs 
less than 2 lb., and often 
much less, but one plant 
can produce as many as a dozen fruit. To Cucurbita maxima 
must also be referred a variety of Gourd which does not climb 




Valencia Squash. 



326 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



or creep, and was introduced from South America, twenty years 
ago, under the name of Zapallito de Tronco. It is not a productive 
kind, and seems to have gone out of cultivation. In North 
America, under the name of Essex Hybrid Squash, or American 
Turban, a variety is grown which has thick, almost cylindrical 
fruit, with the crown hardly defined, and of a uniform salmon-pink 
colour, almost exactly resembling the tint of the Ohio Squash. 

II. Cucurbita moschata, Duch., and Varieties 

The varieties which have sprung from this species have all long 
running stems, which readily take root, and are covered (as are also 
the leaves and leaf-stalks) with numerous hairs, which never become 
spiny. They are also distinguished by having the fruit-stalk 
(which is pentangular or sexangular, like that of Cuburbita Pepo) 
swollen where it joins the fruit. The leaves are not cut, but exhibit 
well-marked angles, and are dark green relieved by blotches of 
silvery white produced by a thin layer of air under the skin, which 
rises here and there between the principal veins or nerves. T*he 
calyx has the segments divided almost as far as the stalk, and often 
broader at the extremity than at the base ; they sometimes become 
leafy. The seeds are variable in size, but always a dirty white, and 
margined and covered by a loosely adhering membrane or skin, 
' which often becomes detached here and 
there, giving the seeds a shaggy appearance. 
Their germinating power lasts for six years. 
This species derives its name from the musky 
flavour which all the varieties of it possess, 
to a greater or less extent, in the flesh of 
the fruit. 

Carpet-bag Gourd, or Naples Squash. — 

Stem trailing, lo to 13 ft. long ; leaves 
medium-sized, entire, rounded or five-angled, 
of a deep and rather dull green, with veins 
and spots of whitish gray, clearly relieved 
on the green ground : fruit large, 20 in. to 
2 ft. long, and 6 to 8 in. broad in its widest 
part. The part next the stalk is nearly 
cylindrical, but the lower part is more or 
less swollen, and it is only in this part that 
^^""^Na" ks^ Squash ^^^^^ found, the upper part being solidly 
natural size). ^ filled with flesh without any central cavity. 

Skin smooth, dark green, becoming yellow 
when the fruit is quite ripe ; flesh orange coloured, very abundant, 
sweet, perfumed, and keeping well. This variety is very productive, 
and the fruit is of excellent quality. It has no fault except that 




PUMPKINS 



337 



it ripens rather late. The Courge Pleine d Alger and the Courge 
des Bedouins appear to be 
identical with this kind. 
In Italy a gigantic variety 
is grown, the fruit of 
which, usually slightly 
curved, often measures 
upwards of 3 ft. in length, 
and weighs from 33 to 
44 lb. 

Early Carpet-bag 
Gourd, or Early Nea- 
politan Squash. — This 
variety resembles the pre- 
ceding one in habit of 
growth, and only differs 
from it in the smaller size 
of its fruit, and its much 
greater earliness, which 
renders it a very valuable 
plant, and one to be re- 
commended for the climate 
of the north of France in 
preference to the previous 
variety. 

Mirepoix Musk Squash. — Stem strong and trailing, leaves 
large, erect, with rounded lobes. Fruit pear-shaped, slightly ribbed, 
dark green streaked v/ith light green. The flesh is dark red, firm, 

fragrant, and keeps well. A 
variety raised in the south 
of France, ripens well at 
Paris, but not so well farther 
north. 

Yokohama Gourd. — 

The only flat-fruited variety 
of Ciicurbita vwschata that 
v/e know of is the Yokohama 
Gourd, a Japanese variety 
that has often been intro- 
duced into Europe. It is a 
plant of very rampant habit 
and somewhat late in ripen- 
ing. Fruit flattened in shape, 
especially on the portion sur- 
rounding the eye, generally 
twice as broad as long, sometimes even more so, of a very dark 




Mirepoix Musk Squash. 




Yokohama Gourd natural size) 



328 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



green colour, with irregularly formed ribs, and the skin indented 
and wrinkled, and like that of the Prescott Cantaloup Melon. It 

has been named C. meloni- 
formis {Rev. hort. 1880) by 
M. Carriere. 

Canada, or Winter Crook- 
neck, Gourd. — This pretty little 
Gourd is closely allied to the 
Early Neapolitan Squash, but 
differs from it chiefly in having 
the portion of the fruit which 
is next the stalk completely 
filled with flesh (as in the Naples 
Carpet-bag Gourd), and usually 
curved like the neck of a swan, 
in which respect it resembles 
the Siphon Gourd. It possesses 
the good qualities of earliness 
and excellent flavour, and also 
keeps well. The plant is of 
small size, the stems seldom 
It is therefore well adapted for 




Canada Crook-neck, or Winter, Gourd 
Q natural size). 

exceeding 5 or 6 ft. in length, 
gardens of moderate extent. 



Other Varieties of Cucurbita moschata 

There are also some forms of this species in which the fruit is 
not elongated, but rounded or even flattened. Among the first 
of these we may mention the Bordeaux Melon Squash — a vigorous- 
growing plant, bearing great numbers of fruit, which are nearly 
cylindrical, flattened at both ends, something like a drum, as broad 
as they are long, and with faintly defined ribs. It is a productive 
variety, with fruit of excellent quality, but rather late in ripening. 
The Courge d la Violette of the south of France and the Courge 
Pascale are two varieties closely allied to the preceding one, and, 
like it, have almost spherical fruit. 



III. Cucurbita Pepo, L., and Varieties 

This species is the parent of a very great number of cultivated 
varieties, all of which exhibit the following characteristics of the 
type : Leaves with lobes always well defined, and often deeply 
cut ; hairs becoming spiny here and there ; fruit-stalks pentangular 
or five-ribbed, never swollen under the fruit, and becoming 
exceedingly hard when the fruit ripens ; segments of the calyx 
united for some part of their length, and often slightly contracted 



PUMPKINS 



329 



below the commencement of the divisions ; the part between the 
stalk and the contractions usually has five prominent ribs, and 
the segments of the calyx are narrowed from the base to the 
extremity. The seed varies very much in appearance, but is always 
winged or margined, 
and is seldom as large 
as that of the varieties 
of Cucurbit a maxima. 
The seed of the Custard 
and Fancy Gourds is 
much smaller. The 
germinating power of 
the seed of all kinds 
of Gourds, except the 
Large Tours Pumpkin, 
lasts for six years or 
more. 

Vegetable Marrow. 
— A plant with long, 
slender, running stems. 
Leaves of medium size, 
deeply cut into five 
lobes, which are often 
undulated or toothed 
at the edges, of a dark 
green colour, sometimes Vegetable Marrow, 

variegated with gray 

spots, and very rough to the touch ; fruit oblong in shape, 10 to 
16 in. long, and 4 or 5 in. in diameter, with five or ten ribs more 
or less well marked, but most prominent on the part next the 
stalk ; skin smooth, of a dull yellow or yellowish white colour. 
The fruit is generally eaten when it is less than half grown, as 
the flesh is then very tender ; when ripe, it is rather dry. 




Culture. — The Marrow will 
grow anywhere if supplied with 
plenty of manure and moisture at 
the root. For early Marrows the 
seed should be sown in pots and 
placed in a gentle heat any time in 
April j when they have made two 
pairs of rough leaves they may be 
hardened off ready for planting early 
in June. Hand-lights should be 
placed over them for a few days 
after planting, until they become 
established. It is a bad practice 



to keep the lights on too long, 
inasmuch as the plants do not grow 
any faster and they are liable to 
mildew — the latter disease being the 
only drawback to growing Marrows 
in pits or frames. Some gardeners 
sow earlier and plant earlier, but 
there is seldom anything gained by 
it unless in exceptionally favourable 
seasons. Marrows are generally 
planted on old refuse-heaps, or old 
manure beds, which places are well 
suited to their growth. We have 



330 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



seen them planted on great heaps of 
decayed leaf-mould; on this they 
grow and fruit amazingly. They 
may, however, be successfully grown 
in any ground by taking out a few 
spits of earth and digging in a 
barrow-load of manure. Summer 
Marrows do well planted in old 
ditches or dykes that are compara- 
tively dry during the summer 



months. The usual time for sowing 
seed of Marrows is in May and 
June, and it is sown where it is to 
remain, having a flower-pot or hand- 
light placed over it until it has ger- 
minated. It is a good plan to soak 
the seed in water for a few hours 
previous to sowing. The same re- 
marks as to culture apply to all the 
tribe of Gourds. 



Long Yellow Vegetable Marrow. — Runner stem i6 to 
1 8 ft. long, with broad, lobate leaves. The fruit is three times 
as long as it is thick, and not longer than i6 or i8 in. Skin 
pale yellow, turning to gold as it ripens, smooth or slightly 
ribbed on the upper half next the stalk. It resembles the old 
Vegetable Marrow, but is longer and less ribbed. The flesh is 
more delicate too, and is at its best when the fruit is about half 
grown. 

Brazilian Sugar Gourd. — A plant with long, slender, running 
stems. Leaves lobed, rough, of a very dark green colour, and 

finely crimped and puckered ; 
fruit oblong, rather short, 
swollen in the middle, with 
five faintly marked ribs, and 
sometimes slightly warted ; 
skin green, turning orange 
when ripe ; flesh yellow, thick, 
and very sweet. This variety 
is highly to be recommended, 
on account of its earliness, 
and the abundance and good 
quality of its fruit, which keeps 
for a long time. It ripens 
half-early. 

Patagonian Squash. — A 
plant with very long running 
stems, and large, lobed, dark 
green leaves. Fruit from 12 to 20 in. long, and 6 to 8 in. across, 
traversed from end to end by five very regular ribs, which form 
so many prominent rounded flutings; skin smooth, of an extremely 
dark green, almost black, a colour which it retains when ripe ; 
flesh yellow, of medium quality. This variety is remarkable for 
■its hardiness and productiveness. 

Under the name of Alsatian Gourd, a variety has been highly 
-spoken of which resembles the Patagonian Squash, except that 
[the fruit is less angular and of a lighter green colour. When the 




Brazilian Suo;ar Gourd. 



PUMPKINS 



331 




Patagonian Squash. 



fruit of this variety is full 
grown, but before it is 
ripe, it is used in salads, 
cut in slices, and seasoned 
in the same way as Gher- 
kins. With care, it will 
keep for some time in 
winter. 

Long White Bush 
Marrow. — This variety is 
very distinct in its habit 
of growth. The stems, 
instead of running, remain 
very short and rather thick, 
bearing closely set leaves 
of a dark green colour 
with a few gray blotches, 
and deeply cut and toothed 
at the edges. Fruit longer 
than that of the Vegetable 
Marrow^, being from 14 to 
20 in. in length, with a 
diameter of or 6 in., narrowed towards the stalk, and traversed 
by five ribs. Like the Vegetable ]\Iarrow% the fruit of this variety 
is usually eaten before it is fully grown, the plant continuing 

to produce new fruit in 
succession. 

Italian Vegetable 
Marrow. — A very distinct 
variety. Stems not run- 
ning, very thick and short, 
producing numerous 
leaves of a dark green 
colour, very large, and 
very deeply cut into five 
or six lobes, which are 
also more or less notched. 
The luxuriant foliage 
forms a regular bush. 
Fruit very much elon- 
gated, being 20 in. or 
more in length, with a 
diameter of 3 to 4 in., 
furrowed by five ribs, 
which are most prominent 
on the part next the stalk, 




Long White Bush Marrow. 



332 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



where the fruit is also narrowest ; skin very smooth, of a dark 
green, marbled with yellow or with paler green. All through 
Italy, where this Gourd is very commonly grown, the 
fruit is eaten quite young, when it is hardly the size 
of a small Cucumber, sometimes even before the 
flower has opened, when the ovary, which is scarcely 
as long or as thick as the finger, is gathered for use. 
The plants, which are thus deprived of their undeveloped 
fruit, continue to flower for several months most 
profusely, each producing a great number of young 
Gourds, which, gathered in that state, are exceedingly 
tender and delicately flavoured. This should be tried 
in England, and the same excellent way of gathering 
young adopted. 

Geneva Bush Squash. — Stems not running ; 
leaves long-stalked, of medium size and clear green 
colour, rather deeply cut into elongated lobes which 
are toothed at the edges ; fruit numerous, small, very 
much flattened, 5 or 6 in. in diameter and 2 or 3 in. 
in depth ; skin smooth, brownish green, turning orange 
when ripe ; flesh yellow^ and not very thick. The 
Italian Veget- fruit is eaten young, before it is fully grown, like the 
able Marrow. Vegetable Marrow. 

Bush Nice Squash. — Probably a sub- variety of the Geneva 
Bush Squash, which it closely resembles. It is much grown, under 
the name of Cougourdon, by the gardeners of the Riviera for the 
winter markets, i.e. December to March. It is grown in the open 
ground, with some kind 



of protection on the north 
side, and is covered up 
during the night. There 
are two forms, one round, 
resembling the Geneva 
Squash, but flatter ; the 
other long, and very like 
the Vegetable Marrow. 
The fruit is eaten when 
scarcely one-third of its 
full size. It is then dark 
green. When ripe, the 
skinissmooth and orange- 
red, like the Geneva 
Squash. 

Early Bush, or 
Summer Crook-neck, Squash. — This plant is not a climber or 
trailer, but forms a tuft like the Custard Marrows. Leaves of a 




Geneva Bush Squash. 



PUMPKINS 



333 



clear green, large, toothed 
at the edges, and more or 
less divided into three or 
five rather pointed lobes ; 
fruit of a very bright orange 
colour, elongated, covered 
with numerous roundish 
excrescences, narrowed and 
most usually curved in the 
part next the stalk, and 
swollen at the other end, 
which, however, always ter- 
minates in a point. This 
variety is less grown for 
the table than for ornament, 
like the Fancy Gourds. 
From the hardness of its 




Bush, or Crook-neck, Squash natural size). 



skin, the fruit is easily kept all through the winter, and never 
loses the fine orange colour which is peculiar to it. 

Large Tours Pump- 
kin. — Stems creeping, i6 
to 20 ft. long ; leaves very 
large, dark green in colour 
with a few gray blotches, 
sometimes entire, but most 
usually divided into three 
or five lobes ; fruit round 
or long, generally flattened 
at both ends, with faintly 
marked ribs, and a smooth 
skin of a pale or gray-green 
colour marked with deeper 
bands and marbHngs. The 
fruit often weighs from go 
to no lb. Its flesh is 
yellow, not very thick, and 
of middling quality. The 
seed is very large. Its 
germinating power lasts 
for only four or five years. 
This variety is generally 
grown for feeding cattle 
only. 

Custard Marrow. — 

The Custard Marrows are 

Large Tours Pumpkin, SOme of the most CUrioUS 




334 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



varieties which have sprung from Cuciirbita Pepo. They are not 
climbing or creeping plants, and have large leaves, of a clear 
green colour, entire, or with five faintly marked lobes. The fruit 

is very much flattened, and 
is much broader than long, 
and the outline, instead of 
being rounded, exhibits five 
or six projections or blunt 




Elector's-cap, or Custard, Marrow natural size). 



Yellow Custard MaiTow. 



teeth, which are either diverging from, or more or less curved 
back towards the stalk end of the fruit. Tlie fruit of all the 
Custard Marrows is pretty solid, and the flesh is firm, not very 
sweet, but rather floury ; the skin is very smooth, and variable in 
colour and thickness. The seed is very small, compared with that 

of the other varieties 
of Cucurbit a Pepo. 

The following are 
the most commonly 
grown varieties : — 

Yellow Custard 
Marrow. — This seems 
to be the original 
variety or type of the 
cultivated Custard 
^Marrows. The skin of 
the fruit is a uniform 
butter-yellow, and the 
teeth or divisions of the 
crown are very pro- 
minent and curved back 
in the direction of the 
stalk. 

Green Custard 
Marrow. — Fruit (un- 
ripe) dark green, nearly entirely so, or faintly marbled. The colour 
is very deep at first, but turns yellow as the fruit ripens. 




White Bush Scallop Custard Marrow. 



PUMPKINS 



335 



Orange-coloured Custard Marrow. — Like the preceding kind 
in shape, but of a far more vivid colour, resembling that of a ripe 
Orange. 

White Bush Scallop Custard Marrow. — A milky white 
coloured variety with very large flat fruit. 

Striped Custard Marrow.— Stems often running ; fruit rather 
small, with faintly marked teeth, and very prettily variegated with 
green and white. 

White Flat Warted Custard Marrow. — Fruit with faintly 
marked lobes or teeth ; skin creamy white, covered all over with 
roundish warts. 

All these varieties pro- 
duce numbers of small fruit. 
A strong plant may be 
allowed to carry ten or 
twelve. 

Improved Variegated 
Custard Marrow is dis- 
tinguished from the pre- 
ceding kinds by the much 
greater size of its fruit, 
which often weighs 7 or 8 lb. 
A plant should not, as a 
rule, be allowed to carry 
more than three or four. In shape and colour the fruit resembles 
that of the Common Variegated Custard Marrow. 

Under the name of Pineapple Squashy Potato Squash, or 
Congo Squash, a variety is grown in the United States which is 
yellow in colour, and long conical in shape, and differs also from 
our European varieties in being trailing. 




Improved Variegated Custard Marrow 
Q natural size). 



FANCY GOURDS 

French, Coloquintes. German, Kleine Zierkiirbisse. Dutch, Kawoerd appel, 
Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese, Coloquintida. 

The true Colocynth is an exclusively medicinal plant, and 
seldom cultivated, and the name Colocynth is a misapplication 
only sanctioned by usage, when it is employed to denote a large 
number of varieties of Gourds with small fleshy fruit, the chief 
merit of which consists in the elegance or singularity of their shape, 
and the handsome colours which they exhibit when ripe. The 
skin of these fruit usually becomes very hard, and the pulp in the 
interior dries up rather quickly, in consequence of which they 
keep much longer than most of the edible kinds. In habit of 
growth the Fancy Gourds, or Colocynths, resemble the varieties of 
Cucurbita Pepo. The stems, leaves, flowers, and fruit are generally 



336 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



of smaller size than those of any of the kinds hitherto described in 
this volume, but the characteristics of all those parts, and also of 
the calyx and flower-stalk, indicate the origin of the varieties 
clearly enough ; and yet the Custard Marrows, which all are 
agreed to consider the undoubted offspring of Cucurbiia Pepo, 
may be said to form, by their small hard-skinned fruit, a true 
connecting link between the Fancy Gourds and the edible kinds 
described in the Vegetable Marrow section. The Fancy Gourds 
have generally, if not always, long climbing or creeping stems, 
and, on this account, are very often grown as ornamental plants on 
trellises, arbours, etc. As they grow very rapidly, they are very 
useful for quickly covering bare surfaces with verdure, and their 
numerous and usually prettily variegated fruit are highly orna- 
mental late in autumn and up to the first appearance of frosty 
weather. The number of varieties is almost unlimited, and new- 
kinds are constantly being raised from seed. As it would be 
impossible to enumerate them all here, w^e shall confine ourselves 
to the description of the best established and most generally 
cultivated kinds. 

Pear Gourd. — One of the most common forms of Fancy 
Gourds is the elongated shape, with a spherical or ovoid swelling 



at the end farthest from the stalk. The varieties which have fruit 
of this shape are known by the general name of Pear Gourds, and 
differ more or less from one another in colour, as the White Pear 
Gourd, the skin of which is smooth and entirely milk-white ; the 
Striped Pear Gourd, which is dark green in colour, marked with 
irregular longitudinal bands, or rows of spots, which are either 
white or of a much paler green than the rest of the fruit ; the 
Two-coloured Pear Gourd, one half of which is yellow, and the 
other a uniform green ; the Ringed Pear Gourd, in which the green 




Pear Gourd. 



Ringed Pear Gourd. 



FANCY GOURDS 



33/ 



colour, instead of covering half the fruit, only forms a ring round 
it of greater or less width. These different variegations may also 
be found combined with one another in various ways, as in some 
two-coloured fruits which have the yellow part of a uniform tint, 
while the green part is striped or banded with different colours. 
All the varieties of Pear Gourds generally exhibit the following 
characteristics : The plants are of medium size, the stems seldom 
exceeding from 6h to about loj ft. in length. Leaves of moderate 
size, dark green, nearly entire, with five roundish angles, or divided 
into five faintly marked lobes. 

Several varieties of Fancy Gourds have fruit almost spherical 
in shape or slightly flattened at the ends, like an Apple or an 
Orange. Of these the following are the most commonly grown 
kinds : — 

Early Apple Gourd.— Stems of moderate length, not exceeding 
from 6^ to about lo ft. ; leaves medium-sized, gray-green, cut into 
five lobes with toothed edges ; fruit nearly spherical, flattened at 
the ends, especially at the end farthest 
from the stalk ; skin very smooth and 
entirely white. 

Orange Gourd.— The fruit of this 
variety is similar in shape to that of 
the preceding one, but of a fine orange 
colour. Leaves large, divided into five 
lobes more or less deeply cut, of a 
dark green colour, and often slightly 
crimped. The fruit exactly resembles 
a ripe Orange in size and colour. 

Miniature Gourd.— A small plant 
with thin slender stems, seldom more 
than about 6J ft. long. Leaves dull 
green, with grayish blotches, some- 
times nearly entire, but most usually 
divided into three (rarely into five) 
round lobes ; fruit generally rather flat 
at the ends, about 2 in. in diameter, Miniature Gourd, 

and variegated with pale green on a 

darker green ground, almost like the Striped Pear Gourd. 

White-striped Flat Fancy Gourd. — A vigorous-growing 
variety, with stems 10 to 14 ft. long. Leaves largish, divided into 
five lobes, which generally terminate in rather sharp points ; fruit 
very much flattened transversely, much broader than long, 2 or 3 in. 
in diameter, and striped or marbled with various shades of green. 
The peculiar shape and regular markings of this Gourd give it 
quite a unique appearance, and would lead one to think, at first 
sight, that it belonged to some species very different from 




22 



33» 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Cucurbita Pepo. There are, in fact, some small kinds of wild 
Melons to which it bears a striking resemblance. 

Egg Gourd. — A vigorous-growing plant, with stems often 13 ft. 
long. Leaves large, of a rather dark green colour, entire, five- 
angled, or divided into five faintly marked lobes. Fruit entirely 
white, and of the shape and size of a hen's egg. 

Warty-skinned Fancy Gourd. — Stems rather thick, but not 
very long, seldom exceeding about 6J ft. in length ; leaves of a clear 
green colour, shining, slightly crimped, entire, rounded, or divided 
into three lobes faintly toothed on the edges ; fruit usually 
spherical, and having the skin entirely covered with numerous 
round excrescences, of variable colour, sometimes green, but most 
usually white or orange. The stems of this variety, instead of 




White-striped Flat Fancy Gourd (yV natural Warty Fancy Gourd (yV natural 
size ; detached fruit, \ natural size). size). 

being slender and pliable like those of the other kinds of Fancy 
Gourds, are stiff and stout, as if the plant had a tendency to grow 
without any support. The plant does not branch much. 



BOTTLE GOURDS 

Lagenaria vulgaris^ Ser. ; Cucurbita Lagenaria^ L. Cucurbitacece. 

Courge bouteille. 

Native of South America. — Annual. — Like the Fancy Gourds, 
or small varieties of Cucurbita Pepo, the different varieties of 
Lagenaria vulgaris are much more grown for ornament than for 
any use that is made of them. The Common Bottle Gourd, the 
double swollen fruit of which is familiar to most people, is almost 
the only kind that is turned to any account in the way of practical 
utility, its dried fruit, when the flesh is removed, forming an excellent 
substitute for bottles and other vessels. The very rapid growth of 
this plant, the abundance and beauty of its large white flowers, and 



BOTTLE GOURDS 



339 



the shape and extraordinary dimensions of .the fruit of some of its 
forms, render it a valuable ornamental climbing plant. As it is 
easily grown, it appears to be cultivated in every part of the world 
where the climate is warm or temperate. From an early period it 
has been grown by the Chinese and the Japanese, who possess 
some varieties of it differing somewhat from those grown in Europe. 

Culture. — The Lagenarias are annual plants vegetating very 
rapidly, and their culture is exceedingly simple. The seed is sown, 
where the plants are to stand, in May, or plants previously raised 
in hot-beds or frames may be planted out in the open ground that 
month. These, of course, will bear sooner than the others. The 
plants like good, rich, well-manured soil, and plentiful waterings, 
although not absolutely necessary, will help to increase the size and 



beauty of the fruit. No variety of Bottle Gourd ripens its fruit 
regularly in the climate of Paris. 

Uses. — The young fruit is eaten in some countries Hke the 
Vegetable Marrow, but is not very desirable for table use, and the plant 
should be regarded as purely ornamental. Its rapid growth renders 
it valuable for quickly covering trellises, arbours, trunks of trees, 
dead walls, and other bare places. The leaves and all the green 
parts of the plant, when bruised, give out a very strong and 
disagreeable odour, but the flowers, on the contrary, are scented 
almost like Jasmine. 

Club Gourd. — Fruit very long, sometimes over 3J- ft. in length, 
almost cylindrical, but only about half as thick in the half next the 
stalk as it is in the other half. Sometimes the extremity is greatly 
swollen. All the forms of this plant, however, are extremely 
variable, and as changeable as the whims of amateurs. 

Siphon Gourd. — The fruit of this variety is swollen at the 
extremity into a spherical or slightly flattened enlargement, 8 to 




Club Gourd. 



Siphon Gourd (^V natural size). 



340 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



12 in. broad, and about one-third less in depth ; the rest of the fruit 
forms a long thin neck, which is curved into a semicircle in the part 
next the stalk. When growing, the fruit should rest on the ground 




Common Bottle Gourd (jJ^ natural size). Miniature Bottle Gourd. 



or some other support, otherwise the neck will be broken by the 
weight of the enlarged lower part. 

Common Bottle Gourd. — Fruit contracted about the middle, 
and presenting two unequal divisions, of which the lower one is 
larger and broader than the other, and sometimes flattened at the 
base, so as to allow the fruit to rest firmly upon it ; the upper 
division, next the stalk, is almost spherical. There is a certain 
number of forms of this variety, all of which bear fruit of nearly the 




Powder-horn Gourd. Flat Corsican Gourd. 



same shape, but of extremely variable dimensions, some of them 
being nearly 20 in. long and capable of containing at least two 
gallons, while others are seldom more than 5 or 6 in. in length. 



BOTTLE GOURDS 



341 



' with a capacity of less than a pint, and they are found of all sizes 
I between these extremes. 

j Miniature Bottle Gourd. — A small form of the preceding, with 

i very handsome fruit about 3 or 4 in. long. A very prolific variety, 
each plant producing as many as fifty fruit. 

Powder-horn Gourd. — Fruit of a more or less long pear- 
shape, with a well-marked neck, and variable in size. They can be 
applied to the same kind of purposes as the fruit of the preceding 
kind, and are used as powder-horns in some country places. 

Flat Corsican Gourd. — A remarkably distinct variety, with 
rounded flat fruit, rather like that of the Yokohama Gourd in 

. shape, but quite smooth and without ribs. It is from 6 to 8 in. 

! in diameter and 3 or 4 in. thick. 

WAX GOURD 

I Benincasa cerifera, Savi. CucurbitacecB. Courge d la cire. 

! Native of India and China. — Annual. — A creeping plant, which 
spreads on the ground like a Cucumber-plant, with slender sharply 
five-angled stems from 5 to 6\ ft. in length. Leaves large, slightly 
hairy, rounded, heart-shaped, and som.etimes with three or five 
faintly marked lobes ; flowers axillary, yellow, with five divisions, 
which extend almost to the base of the corolla, broadly cup-shaped, 
and 2 in. or more in diameter ; calyx reflexed, rather large, and 
often petaloid. Fruit oblong, cylindrical, very hairy up to about 
the time of ripening, when it attains a length of from 14 to 16 in., 
with a diameter of 4 or 5 in. It is then covered with a white 
bloom, like that which is seen on Plums, but much whiter and more 
abundant, and constituting a true vegetable wax. Seeds flat, 
gray, truncate. Their germinating power lasts for ten years. Its 
culture is similar to that of other kinds of Gourds. The fruit is 
eaten like that of other Gourds. The flesh of it is extremely light, 
slightly floury, and intermediate between that of a Gourd and a 
Cucumber. The fruit will keep pretty far into the winter. 

HOP 

Humulus LupuluSy L. Urticacece. 

French^ Houblon. German^ Hopfen. Flemish^ Hop. Italian^ Luppolo. Spanish^ Lupulo. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial.— This is not, properly speaking, a 
kitchen-garden plant, but as, in some countries, the young shoots 
are often used as table vegetables, we think it should be noticed in 
this book. When the plants commence to shoot in spring, most of 
the shoots are pinched off, so as to leave only two or three of the 
strongest to each plant. The shoots thus removed are used as 
vegetables. In Belgium the young shoots are much used as a 
table vegetable, prepared in the same way as Asparagus or Salsafy. 



342 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



HOREHOUND 



Marrubium vulgare, L. LabiatCB, 

French^ Marrube blanc. Gertnan, Andorn. Ilalian, Marrubio. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A common roadside plant, often 
growing on slopes with a southern aspect. Stems numerous, erect, 

entirely covered with a 
white down ; leaves almost 
square, with roundish 
angles,toothed and netted, 
and of a gray - green 
colour ; flowers white, in 
compact rounded whorls, 
growing in numerous tiers 
to the top of the stem ; 
seed small, oblong, brown, 
pointed at one end and 
rounded at the other, 
compressed, and with two 
or three faces. Its ger- 
minating power lasts for 
three years. The seed is 
sown, where the plants 
are to stand, in spring ; 
or they may be propa- 
gated by division of the 
tufts at the same time. The plants are perfectly hardy and require 
no attention while growing. The leaves are used for seasoning, or 
as a popular cough remedy. 




HORSE-RADISH 

Cochlear ia Arnzoraa'a, L. CruczfercB, 

French. Raifort sauvage, Cran. German, Meerettig, Kran. Flemish, Kapucienen mostaard. 
Dutch, Peperwortel. Danish. Peberrod. Italian^ Rafano. Spanish, Taramago. 
Portuguese, Rabao de cavalho. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Root cylindrical, very long, 
penetrating deeply into the ground, with a slightly wrinkled 
yellow-white skin ; flesh white, somewhat fibrous, very hot to the 
taste, something like mustard ; radical leaves long stalked, oblong 
oval, about i6 in. long and 5 or 6 in. broad, toothed, light green in 
colour, and shining. The first leaves, which make their appearance 
immediately after winter, are reduced to mere nerves and resemble 
a small comb. As the season advances, the blade of the leaf 



HORSE-RADISH 



343 



becomes developed and assumes its ordinary size and appearance. 
Flower-stems 20 in. to 2 ft. high, branching at the top, and smooth ; 
flowers white, small, in long clusters ; seed- 
vessels small, rounded, and almost always 
barren. 

Culture. — The plant delights especially 
in good, deep, moist soil. It is propagated 
from pieces of the root, which are planted, 
immediately after winter, in rows 20 in. to 
2 ft. apart, and with a distance of about 
10 in. from piece to piece in the rows. 
The ground should be very deeply dug 
and well manured before planting. The 
better the soil is prepared, the more 
abundant will be the produce and the better 
the quality of the roots. They may be 
used in the autumn succeeding the spring 
in which they are planted, but the yield 
will be greater if they are left undisturbed 

for another year. It is a good plan to Horse-radish (i natural size) 

renew the plantation, at least partially, 

every year ; but in many gardens people do not trouble them- 
selves about the Horse-radish, except to gather the roots, the 
fragments which remain in the ground sufficing to keep up the 
supply for an indefinite period ; the results, however, are more 
satisfactory when the plants receive some attention. 




Culture. — A correspondent of 
the Garden gave the following 
method of growing Horse-radish, by 
which he claimed to have produced 
in ten months sticks that measured 
from 5 to 8 in. in circumference : — 
"During February, take small 
straight pieces of the roots about the 
size of, or somewhat smaller than, 
the little finger ; from these remove 
all the side-shoots and roots, and 
form them into straight sets from 
8 to 14 in. long. Prepare a piece 
of ground by deeply digging and 
well manuring it, and plant the sets 
in it in rows 3 ft. apart and from 
12 to 18 in. in the rows. The sets 
must be planted in a slanting posi- 
tion, and must not be more than 
2 in. beneath the surface. The 
ground at all times must be kept 



free from weeds, and should be well 
watered in very dry weather. Plant- 
ing the set at an angle — in fact, in 
nearly a horizontal position — is, no 
doubt, the great secret of success : 
for, being placed so near the sur- 
face, it has the full benefit of the 
sun's heat, which causes it to make 
rapid growth long before that which 
is planted according to the old 
method — i.e. from 18 to 20 in. deep, 
and in a perpendicular position — 
reaches the surface. I am certain 
that want of success is to be attri- 
buted to this alone, and that the 
experience of any of your readers 
who may think fit to adopt my plan 
will be the same as my own." Mr. 
Bradley, of Preston Hall, grows his 
Horse-radish by sinking a common 
round drain-tile 2 in. in the ground. 



344 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



filling the tile with fine earth, and 
planting a set near the top of the 
tile and lo in. above the surface. 
He says it is an admirable plan ; 
digging for the root is saved, and a 
fine clean stem is the result. Mr. R. 
Gilbert says that by placing leaves 
or litter on the tops of Horse-radish 
crowns 2 ft. or so thick, the plants 
grow through them in the course of 
the summer, making small white 
roots the thickness of one's finger, 
which are as tender as spring 
Radishes, and a great improvement 
on the stringy stuff often supplied 
with our roast beef. For winter use a 
supply of Horse-radish should always 
be at hand, stored away in sheds, 
and covered with dry soil or sand, 
in the same way as Carrots, etc. 

Horse-radish is not grown to a 
very great extent in London market- 



gardens ; but where it is found in 
them it is always in deep, rich, open 
soil. Crowns such as are not market- 
able are planted deeply in trenches 
2 ft. apart ; the plants stand i ft. 
asunder in the row. Manure is then 
applied on and about the crowns, 
which lie in a slanting position in 
the bottom of the trench, and they 
are at first not deeply buried. Early 
in spring, after they have started 
fairly into growth, the ridges be- 
tween the trenches are levelled down 
lightly, and a crop of Radishes is 
sown on the surface, the latter being 
off in May; and by the time the_ 
Horse-radish appears in full row, the 
Radishes are cleared off the ground, 
which is hoed and afterwards kept 
clean. Covent Garden is, however, 
now chiefly supplied with Horse- 
radish from Holland. 



condiment, like 



The root is grated or scraped and used as 
mustard. 

HYSSOP 

Hyssopus officinalis, L. LabiatcB. 

French^ Hyssope. German, Isop. Flemish and Dutch, Hijsoop. Danish, Isop. 
Italia7i, Issopo. Spanish, Hisopo. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — An evergreen under- 
shrub with oblong-lanceolate leaves. Flowers usually blue, some- 
times white or pink, in whorled spikes ; seeds small, brown, shining, 

oval three-angled, with a small white 
hilum placed near the point. Their 
germinating power lasts for three years. 
All the parts of this plant, especially 
the leaves, have a very aromatic odour 
and a rather hot and bitter taste. The 
Hyssop prefers rather warm, calcareous 
soil. It withstands ordinary winters 
in England and Northern France, and 
is generally propagated by division of 
the tufts, which readily take root. It 
may also be raised from seed, as it 
usually is in cold climates. The seed 
is sown in the open ground, in April, 
Hyssop (^v natural size). and the seedlings are planted out in 




HYSSOP 



345 



July, most commonly as an edging to beds of other plants. It 
is advisable to renew the plantation every three or four years. 
The leaves and the ends of the branches are used as a condiment, 
especially in the countries of the North. 



ICE-PLANT 

Mesemhryanthemum crystallinum, L. Fzcoidece, 

French, Ficoide glaciale. German, Eiskraut. Flemish and Dutch, Ijsplant. Italian, 
Erba diacciola. Spanish, Escarchosa. 

Native of Greece or the Cape of Good Hope. — Perennial, but 
grown in gardens as an annual. — A spreading, round-stemmed 
plant. Blade of the leaf 
widened towards the ex- 
tremity, and contracted 
towards the stalk ; flowers 
whitish, small, with a 
swollen calyx, which is 
covered, as are all the 
green parts of the plant, 
with small, very trans- 
parent, membranous 
bladders, which give the 
plant the appearance of 
being covered with frozen 
dew ; seeds very small, 
black, and shining. 
Their germinating power 
lasts for five years. The 
culture is exceedingly 
easy. The seed is sown 
like Spinach seed, and 
the plants bear hot and dry weather admirably. This quality and 
the thickness and slightly acid flavour of the fleshy part of the 
leaves have caused it to be used as a fresh table vegetable for 
summer use in warm, dry countries. However, it is rather a plant 
to be grown as a curiosity in the gardens of amateurs, and it is 
also not without merit as an ornamental plant. The leaves are 
eaten minced and boiled. 




Ice-plant (| natural size). 



LAVENDERS 

There are two small undershrubs used for perfumery purposes, 
and sometimes grown in our gardens, belonging to the genus 
Lavandula. Both-jare natives of Southern Europe, and exhale a 
delicate, penetrating fragrance. 



346 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




True Lavender. 

light and rather calcareous soil. 



True Lavender {Lavandula vera, D.C, ; L. angustifolia, 
Moench. ; L. spica a L. ; Labiates). — Native of Southern Europe. — 

Perennial. — A dwarf shrub; 
not exceeding from 2 to about 
2\ ft. in height. Stems very 
numerous, forming compact 
tufts or clumps ; leaves linear, 
gray ; flower-stems slender, 
square, bare, with the excep- 
tion of one pair of opposite 
leaves ; flowers violet-blue, in 
a short terminal spike ; seed 
brown, shining, oblong, with 
a well-marked white spot at 
one end, denoting its point 
of attachment to the bottom 
of the calyx. Its germinating 
power lasts for five years. 

Culture.— The Lavender- 
plant delights especially in 
It is generally grown as an 
edging to beds of other plants, and is propagated by division of 
the clumps, or from cuttings, rarely from seed. A plantation 
should be remade every 
three or four years. 

Common Lavender 
{Lavandula spica, D.C. ; 
L. spica 1.. ; L. latifolia, 
Vill.). — More spreading 
in habit than the True 
Lavender and less shrubby, 
differing from it also by 
its larger leaves, w^hich 
standout more horizontally 
and are slender in com- 
parison with their size. 
The flower-stems are less 
numerous, more vigorous, 
less erect, and bear more 
developed branchlets than 
the True Lavender ; the 
flowers are also smaller 
and the fragrance not so 
delicate, for which reason 
the perfume distilled from this plant has only half the value of 
that obtained from the True variety. In Provence the two plants 




Common Lavender. 



LAVENDERS 



347 



grow wild on calcareous soils ; the Common Lavender is found 
on the plains and lower edges of the hills, whilst the True Lavender 
is never met with at a lower elevation than 656 ft. above the 
sea-level. The leaves are sometimes used for seasoning, but 
the plant is chiefly grown for its flowers, which are used in the 
manufacture of perfumery. 



In Surrey hundreds of acres of 
land are devoted to its culture, and 
almost as large a space may be 
found under Lavender in Hertford- 
shire. At Mitcham both cottagers 
and market-gardeners grow Laven- 
der for sale, and when the fields of 
it are in bloom its fragrance per- 
vades the air for miles. Lavender 
is increased by means of rooted 
slips, obtained by division of the 
old roots. The young plants are 
put out in March or April, 18 in. 
apart, in rows half that distance 
asunder, the space between the 
rows being the first year planted 
with Lettuce, Parsley, or some similar 
crop. When the Lavender becomes 
crowded, each alternate row and 
plant are lifted and transplanted to 
another field to form a new planta- 
tion. The remaining plants then 
stand 3 ft. apart each way, and in- 



tercropping is discontinued. During 
the first two or three weeks in 
August the flowers are harvested. 
The stalks are cut off with a sickle, 
bound up in sheaves similar to Wheat, 
and carried to the homestead for 
distillation or for other purposes. In 
Hertfordshire a somewhat different 
method is practised. The young 
plants are put out in November, 3 ft. 
apart each way, no other crop being 
grown between them, and the ground 
is well tilled and attended to. When 
three years old, the plants are con- 
sidered at their best, and after they 
have been planted seven years they 
are dug up and the ground is re- 
planted. A new plantation is, how- 
ever, made every year or so, and 
thus there are always young, vigor- 
ous plants upon which dependence 
for a crop of flowers can be fully 
placed. 



LEAF-BEET, or SWISS CHARD BEET 

Beta vulgaris^ L. CJienopodiacecs. 

French, Poiree. German, Beisskohl, Mangold, Beete. Flemish and Dutch, Snij beet, 
Warmoes. Danish, Blad bede. Italian, Bieta. Spanish, Bleda. Portuguese, Acelga. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Biennial. — This appears to be 
exactly the same plant as the Beet-root, except that in its case 
cultivation has developed the leaves instead of the root. The 
botanical characteristics, especially those of the flowers and the 
fructification, are precisely alike in both plants. The root of the 
Leaf-beet is branched and not very fleshy, while the leaves are 
large and numerous, and, in some varieties, have the stalk and 
midrib developed to a remarkable extent. The seed resembles 
that of the Beet-root, but is usually somewhat smaller. Its 
germinating power lasts for six years or more. 

Culture. — The Leaf-beet is grown in precisely the same way 
as the Beet-root, except that the soil need not be so deeply dug. 



348 THE VEGfiTABLE GARDEN 



The seed is sown in April or May, in drills i6 to 20 in. apart. 
The seedlings are thinned out to a distance of 14 to 16 in. from 
plant to plant, and after that require no further attention beyond 
occasional waterings. At the close of the summer, the leaves of 
the Chard varieties may commence to be gathered, the best-grown 
leaves only being then selected. The leaves of the Common 
White Leaf-beet, or Spinach Beet, may be cut for use even earlier. 
The varieties of Leaf-beet are pretty hardy, and will continue to 
yield, in the open ground, until late in the season, but in order to 
be sure of having a supply all through the winter, it is advisable 
to remove a sufficient number of plants to a vegetable-house, where 
they are treated in the same way as Cardoons or Turnip-rooted 
Celery. 

Uses. — The leaves of the Silver Leaf-beet, or Spinach Beet, 
are used, minced and boiled, like Spinach leaves. They are also 

often mixed with Sorrel, 
to lessen its acidity. In 
the Chard varieties, be- 
sides the green part or 
blade of the leaf, the 
stalk and midrib are also 
eaten. These are very 
broad, tender, and fleshy, 
and have a very agree- 
able and quite peculiar 
flavour. 

White Leaf-beet, or 
Spinach Beet. — The 
leaves of this variety are 
very numerous, broad, 
slightly undulated, and 
of a very light or yellow- 
green colour. The leaf- 
stalks are somewhat larger than those of the Beet-root, and are 
of a paler colour than the blade of the leaf. This kind is chiefly 
grown in the eastern districts of France, where it is highly esteemed 
as a fresh vegetable for table use in summer and autumn, the 
leaves being boiled and minced like Spinach. They are also 
mixed with Sorrel, as mentioned above. 

Sea-kale Beet, or Swiss Chard.— Leaves broad, short, and 
stiff, of a rather dark green colour, spreading rather than erect, 
with very white stalks, from about to i| in. broad, and con- 
tinued into a midrib which is equally white, and narrows rather 
abruptly. This variety is hardy, and is chiefly grown in the 
countries of the North. It may be considered a drawback that 
the chards or midribs it produces have almost always an earthy 




White Leaf-beet (^V natural size). 



LEAF-BEET, OR SWISS CHARD BEET 349 



flavour, and in this variety these are the only parts of the plant 
that are used. 

Silvery Sea-kale Beet, or Silvery Swiss Chard.— A very fine 

and good kind, with large broad 
leaves, which are very much 
undulated, half-erect, and re- 
markable for the size of their 
stalks and midribs, which are 
often 4 in. broad or more. This 
variety is not quite so hardy 
as the preceding kind, but it 
is much more productive, and 
the chards are of far better 
quality, being quite free from, 
any trace of earthy flavour, 
and having a very delicate, 
slightly acid taste. Moreover, 
the blade of the leaf may 
also be used, like that of the 
Common Spinach Beet. In 
these plants a light and pale 
colour in the leaves appears to be accompanied by a mild flavour, 
while leaves of a dark green colour have always a strong acrid 
taste. There are few vegetables which require less care during 
their growth or yield a more certain crop than this variety of 
Chard-beet. Well-grown chards may be gathered from it in 
July, and the plants will continue to bear all through the 

summer and autumn, and 




Silvery bea-kale Beet natural size). 



even far into winter, if the 
precaution is taken of re- 
moving them to a vegetable- 
house. In France this 
excellent vegetable is hardly 
used, except in some of the 
departments of the north 
and east. 

White Curled Swiss 
Chard. — This is almost as 
vigorous and productive a 
variety as the preceding one, 
with leaves equally white 
but crimped and curled in 
a remarkable manner. The 
chards and stalks are not 
so broad as those of the preceding kind, but they are of quite 
as good quality. 




White Curled Swiss Chard natural size). 



350 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Chilian Beet, or Red-stalked Swiss Chard. — A very large 
kind, with long, stiff, almost erect leaf-stalks, 2 or 3 in. broad. 

Leaves rather large, un- 
dulated, almost curled, 
of a dark green colour 
with a metallic lustre, and 
2 to 2|- ft. long, including 
the stalk. This variety 
is much less grown as a 
table vegetable than as an 
ornamental plant There 
are two forms of it — one 
with bright red, and the 
other with deep yellow 
leaf-stalks. 



LEEK 

Allium Porrum, L, 
Liliacece. 

French, Poireau. German, Lauch. 
Porree. Flemish and Diitch^ 
Prei. Danish, Porre. Italian, 
Porro. Spanish, Puerro. For- 
ttignese, Alho porro. 

Said to be a native of 
Switzerland. — Biennial. — 
Notwithstanding the different names given by botanists to the two 
plants, the Leek and the Great-headed Garlic are probably identical, 
the only difference between them being that, in the case of the 
latter, cultivation has developed the production of cloves, while 
with the former the object has been to develop the leaves in such a 
manner that they may both be numerous and cover one another at 
the base for the greatest distance possible. In the Leek, as in the 
Onion, during the first year the stem is reduced to a simple plate 
or very flat cone, from the under-side of which the roots issue, 
while the leaves spring from the upper part, sheathing one another 
at the base, and then forming a long blade, which is usually folded 
longitudinally and narrowed to a point. These leaves, of greater 
or less length and breadth, according to the variety, are arranged 
in two opposite rows, so that they spread one above another on 
both sides evenly from the central axis, in a kind of fan-shape. 
The flower-stem, which does not appear before the second year, 
rises from the centre of the leaves, dividing the fan into two equal 
parts. It is smooth, solid, of nearly the same thickness throughout 
its entire length, and not swollen like that of the Onion. The 
flowers, which are white, pink, or lilac, form a large, almost spherical, 




Chilian Beet. 



LEEK 



351 



simple cluster on the top of the stem, and are succeeded by three- 
valved, roundish three-angled seed-vessels, which are filled with 
black, flat, wrinkled seeds, very like Onion seeds. Their germi- 
nating power usually lasts for three years. 

Culture. — The Leek is a true biennial ; that is, it requires 
nearly a whole year to grow before it prepares to flower and ripen 
its seeds, which it does in the course of the following year. The 
seed is usually sown in March in a seed-bed. In May or early in 
June, when the plants (which should have been previously thinned 
if sown too thick, and watered when necessary) are about as thick 
as a good-sized goose-quill, they are planted out in good, moist, 
rich soil, which should have been prepared beforehand by being 
manured with well-rotted stable manure, if possible. It is best to 
plant in moist, cloudy weather, or else to moisten the soil well a 
few days before. The plants are generally set in drills or rows, 
16 to 20 in. apart, and with a distance of 10 to 12 in. from plant to 
plant in the drills. They should not be planted deeper than they 
were growing in the seed-bed, but soil should be laid on to cover 
the stalks, so as to blanch them for as great a portion of their 
length as possible. Another mode of planting is to make small 
circular holes in the rows, about 4 in. wide and the same in depth, 
in each of which a young plant is set, the holes being afterwards 
gradually filled up by rain and watering washing into them the 
soil which was taken out in making them and left beside them. 
Leeks planted out in May will commence to be fit for use about 
September, or they may be had earlier by sowing in February and 
planting out in the latter end of April. Some market-gardeners 
about Paris are able to send them to market in July, by sowing in 
a hot-bed in December. If the supply is required to be continued 
through the winter or until spring, when full-grown plants are 
preparing to run to seed, late sowings should be made in the latter 
end of April or May, and the plants should not be planted out 
before August. 



Large quantities of Leeks are 
grown in the valley of the Thames, 
where the soil is moist. The first 
sowing is made towards the end of 
January in a frame set on a gentle 
hot-bed, on which has been placed a 
few inches of light, rich soil. The 
seed is sown rather thickly and 
afterwards shghtly covered with fine 
soil. The sashes are then kept close 
until the young plants appear, when 
abundance of air is admitted both 
night and day on all favourable 



opportunities. If severe weather 
sets in, the sashes are covered with 
Htter or mats. On fine days plenty 
of water is supplied to the plants, 
and the soil is kept frequently 
stirred. If the seedlings are too 
thick, they are thinned out to i in. 
or so apart, and those that remain 
are gradually hardened off until to- 
wards the end of March, when they 
are carefully lifted and planted out- 
of-doors in rows about i ft. apart, 
the plants in the row being about 



352 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



6 in. asunder. Between the rows 
Lettuces are planted, and these, 
being of quick growth, are removed 
long before they can in any way 
injure the Leeks. The next sowing, 
which takes place about the end of 
February, is made out-of-doors in 
beds, and when large enough the 
plants are put out, in a similar man- 
ner to the former sowing, in heavily 
manured, deeply dug soil. Another 
sowing is made six or eight weeks 
later, and the last one generally 
about the first week in May. In all 
cases drills are drawn to a depth of 
4 or 5 in., in which the plants 
are put. These in some measure 
protect the plants in the early stages 
of their growth, and serve as re- 
ceptacles for water. The frequent 
hoeing of the ground, which is con- 
sidered a very important matter, fills 
in the drills and blanches the necks 
of the Leeks — one of the main things 
to be considered in their culture. 
During dry weather abundance of 
water is applied, and some growers, 
after taking a crop of Lettuce from 
between the rows, heavily mulch the 
ground with manure. The produce 
from the first sowing is ready for 
market by the beginning of August, 
when it is quickly removed and the 
vacant ground cropped with other 
vegetables. The latest sowing keeps 
up a constant supply of Leeks far 
into the winter, when they are most 
in request. The fine qualities of 
this vegetable are much better 
known to the Welsh, Scotch, and 
French than to the English or Irish. 

A good mode of growing fine 
Leeks is to form trenches for them 
in the same way as for Celery, 
though not so wide — 9 or 12 in. 
being quite sufficient. Fill each 
trench at the bottom with about 
6 in. of well-rotted, rich, light 
manure ; surface this with a few 
inches of soil, and leave the top from 



6 to 12 in. deep. Plant the Leeks 
out of the seed drills or beds 
into the trench in dull, showery 
weather, taking care to preserve all 
their roots. This will be found a 
most convenient method to allow of 
the easy application of water and 
manure ; see that the plants are 
kept clear of weeds. As they ad- 
vance in growth fill in the earth a 
little at a time ; this will refresh 
and stimulate the plants. By the 
end of the season the trench will be 
level with the surface or probably 
converted into a slight ridge on 
either side of the Leeks, which will 
be from 12 to 18 in. long, tho- 
roughly blanched, and of the finest 
quahty. Leeks are sometimes planted 
with a dibble in newly dug, highly 
manured ground in the same way 
as Cauliflowers or Cabbage-plants, 
and simply left to shift for them- 
selves. 

Another method of planting is 
that adopted for setting Potatoes 
with spade and line. The ground 
is dug and manured in the autumn, 
and again dug early in April. 
When I ft. or more is dug, set the 
line against the work and cut it 
down straight with the spade : then 
plant the Leeks carefully against the 
straight cut along the face of the 
dug ground, spreading out the roots 
and covering them with some of the 
fine soil already cut down ; dig 
another foot of ground — taking care 
not to bury the Leeks too deeply — 
and proceed to plant another row, 
and so on until all are completed ; 
by this mode the plants will have a 
fresh, soft, untrodden root-run in 
which to start, and often thrive re- 
markably well. The subsequent 
management consists in merely keep- 
ing the surface clear of weeds, and 
in copiously watering should the 
weather prove dry. This style of 
planting is termed " digging in." 



LEEK 



353 



Uses. — The blanched lower part of the leaves, improperly 
called the stem of the plant, is extensively used in culinary 
preparations. In the south of England and in Ireland, the great 
value of this vegetable is little known except to good cooks ; it is 
not always to be had in the best condition in these parts. 

Long Paris Winter Leek. — This kind is very distinct from 
all others. Its leaves are consolidated for a considerable portion 
of their length, and, in the free part, are longer and narrower than 
those of any other variety ; they are also of a paler and grayer 
green. The lower part of the leaves, where they overlap one 




Long Paris Winter Leek (|- natural size). 



another, and which is generally termed the stalk, measures, in well- 
grown plants, about 12 in. long and about i in. in diameter. This 
variety withstands the winter well, and is particularly suitable for 
planting out late in autumn. It is the only kind which produces 
those fine, very long, slender Leeks, which are seen in long bundles 
in the Central Market at Paris ; at the same time, it is true that 
the market-gardeners help Nature a little by earthing up the 
plants while they are growing. 

Long Mezi^res Leek.— An excellent variety; the stem is thick, 
8 to 10 in. long, or longer, and very white ; the leaves green, 
narrow, and erect. Lately it has been largely grown around Paris. 



23 



354 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



It is a true winter Leek, and from September onwards large 
quantities of it are sent to the Paris market 




Long Mezieres Leek. 



Bulgarian Leek. — A very distinct kind, with a thick and high 
stem. It is a quick grower, and therefore a good summer Leek. 
The leaves are stiff, pointed, erect, and uniform dark green. 
Unfortunately it easily suffers from cold. 



LEEK 



355 



Broad, or London, Flag Leek.-— This kind should rather be 
called the Long Flag Leek, as it has a very long as well as broad 
stem. It is often, in fact, lO in. long, with a diameter of nearly 
2 in. The leaves are large, pliant, often drooping backwards, 
rather variable in colour, but commonly of a rather dark green. 
It is a very fine, good, rather early, and very productive variety, 
but not very hardy. In the climate of Paris it can only be used 




Broad, or London, Flag Leek, 



for an autumn crop, as it is unable to bear any winter that is 
not exceptionally mild. 

Large Yellow Poitou Leek. — This variety, as its name indi- 
cates, originated in the west of France, and the climate of its 
birthplace seems to have influenced its constitution to the extent 
of rendering it rather too delicate to endure a Paris winter always 
without injury. It is, probably, a local variety of the Broad 
Southern Leek, but it differs from it very plainly in several 
i characteristics. The stem is shorter, but quite as thick, at least, 
being often 2 in. or more in diameter, and from 8 to 10 in. long, 
j The leaves are larger and more fan-like in their arrangement ; they 
I are also longer and softer, and often have nearly one-half pendent 



356 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



so as sometimes to reach the ground. The colour, too, is very 
distinct, being a light, almost yellow green, totally different from 
the glaucous or gray tint of the leaves of almost all other kinds 
of Leek. As before observed, this is not a very hardy variety, but 
it is early and swells rapidly, which renders it very suitable for an 
autumn crop. 

Large Rouen Leek. — Stem short, very thick, seldom exceeding 
6 to 8 in. in length, with a diameter of 2 in. or more, and growing 




Large Yellow Poitou Leek natural size). 



almost entirely covered by the soil ; leaves commencing to 
separate, fan shape, almost at the level of the ground, numerous, 
closely overlapping one another, folded into a spout shape, 
stiff, of moderate length, and usually pendent at the extremity. 
The blade of the leaf is broad and dark green, with a gray 
or glaucous tinge. This is a very fine and productive variety, 
equally good for a winter as for an autum crop, swelling less 
rapidly than the preceding kind, but, on the other hand, very 
slow in running to seed, and therefore yielding a more prolonged 
supply for table use. 



I 



LEEK 



357 



Giant Carentan Leek.— The characteristics of this variety are 
nearly the same as those of the preceding one, of which it is, very 
probably, only an improved form, but a very distinct one, on 
account of its much greater size, and the very dark colour of its 
leaves. The length of the stem, in this kind, seldom exceeds 
6 to 8 in., but it is often 3 in. or more in diameter in well-grown 
plants, and we have not infrequently seen it of still larger dimen- 
sions. Like the Rouen Leek, it is very hardy, and is not affected 
by Parisian winters. 

Flanders Winter Leek.— A very hardy variety, proof against 




Large Rouen Leek natural size). 



drought as well as the severest frosts. The stem is short, not very 
thick ; the leaves gray-green, narrow, folded over, and pendent. 
Its defect is producing suckers. 

Perpetual Leek. — More curious than useful, producing an 
abundance of suckers which form large tufts of numerous thin 
shoots, not exceeding the thickness of the finger. Its merit 
is that it is very slow to run to seed, and thus such usefulness 
as it may have lasts for a longer time. 

In addition to the foregoing, we may mention the following 
varieties : — 

Brabant Short Broad Leek. — This is indeed a very short 
and very hardy kind, but of small size, the diameter of the stem 



358 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



seldom exceeding about i in. In its general appearance as to the 
colour and arrangement of the leaves, it is somewhat like the Rouen 
Leek, but much smaller. 

The Lion Leek. — This is often grown in England. It is 
rather variable ; we have known it to resemble the Rouen Leek, 
with a thicker bulb ; more often its appearance is that of a broad 
flag Leek, with a long white stem and light green leaves. 

Musselburgh, or Scotch Flag, Leek. — An improved form 
of the Common Long Winter Leek (raised near Edinburgh), 




Perpetual Leek. 



with a longer and thicker stem and broad leaves. It comes 
very near the Giant Carentan Leek. The Ayton Castle New 
Giant (Henry's Prize Giant) Leek is also a very superior large 
variety. 

Small Mountain Leek. — A half-wild kind, grown in the 
southern and central districts of France. It has narrov.^ leaves, 
which are folded longitudinally and of a dark glaucous green 
colour, and a very short and small stem, which frequently sends 
up shoots or suckers. Its only merit is that it is a very 
hardy kind. 



LENTILS 



359 



LENTILS 

Ervum Lens, L. ; Lens esculenta, Mcench. Leguminosce. 

French^ Lentille. German^ Linse. Flemish and Dutch, Linze. Danish^ Lindse. Italian, 
Lente. Spanish, Lenteja. Portuguese, Lentilha. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — A small and very 
branching plant, forming a tuft 14 to 16 in. high. Stems slender 
and angular ; leaves winged, composed of a great number of small 
oval leaflets, light green in colour, and terminating in a simple 
tendril ; flower axillary, small, white, produced in pairs, and suc- 
ceeded by very flat pods, each of which usually contains two very 
flat seeds, which are rounded in outline and convex on both sides. 
The germinating power of these seeds lasts for four years. The 
seed is generally sown in drills or lines in March. The plant 
usually prefers light soil ; at least, 
it seeds most plentifully when 
grown in soil of that description. 
It requires no attention until the 
seeds are gathered in August or 
September. These keep better 
in the pods than they do after 
they are threshed, so the crop is 
only threshed out as a supply 
is required. The seeds are eaten 
like Haricot Beans, and of late 
years their use has been very 
much more frequent in England. 
It is excellent for soups and 
stews, and a capital addition to 
our food supplies. 

Large Yellow Lentil.— Plant 
of rather small size, but very 
branching, and of rather pale 
green colour ; seed very broad, 
flat, and pale. This is the most 
commonly cultivated variety, and 
is grown extensively in the eastern and central districts of 
France, and also in Germany. 

Like the Pea, the Lentil is often attacked by a small beetle or 
weevil, the grubs of which feed on the seed, in which they remain 
until they change into the form of a perfect insect ; and it is pro- 
bably owing to the ravages of these insects that the cultivation 
of Lentils has greatly fallen off in the northern districts of France. 

The two commercial names of Lorraine and Gallardon Lentils 
merely indicate the districts from which the seeds are supplied, but 
both refer to the same Large Yellow Lentil, just described. 




Large Yellow Lentil (^V natural size ; 
detached branch, natural size). 



36o 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Puy Green Lentil. — A very distinct kind, with small seed, 
which is only about J in. in diameter, but very thick, and pale 
green, spotted and marbled with dark green. This variety is 
almost exclusively grown in the departments of Haute-Loire and 
Cantal, where it is highly esteemed both for table use and as green 
fodder for cattle. 

Small Winter Lentil. — This variety is chiefly grown in the 
northern and eastern districts of France, and is sown in autumn, 
either among corn or, more commonly, by itself. It is seldom used 
as fodder for cattle, as the seed is highly esteemed for table use, 
many persons preferring it to that of the Large Yellow kind. It is 
small in size, thick, and of a rather deep reddish colour, which 
distinguishes it at first sight. 

Small March Lentil. — The seed of this kind resembles that 
of the Large Yellow Lentil in colour and shape, but is only about 
half the size. It is sown in spring, like the Large Yellow variety. 
The name Small Queen Lentil {Lentille d la Reine) is sometimes 
given to this kind, and also to the preceding one. Both varieties 
are very highly esteemed for table use, on account of their 
delicate flavour and the remarkable thinness of the skin of the seed. 

Auvergne Lentil, or One-flowered Tare {Ervum monanthos, L. 
LegumtnoscB, Lentille d' Auvergne). — Native of Southern Europe. — 
Annual. — A small plant, with slender stems, which require sup- 
port. Leaves compound, formed of numerous very small, oval 
leaflets ; flowers axillary, solitary, whitish, and long-stalked, 
succeeded by broad flat pods, each containing two or three seeds. 
The plant will grow about 2 or 2 J ft. high, if the stems have some- 
thing to support them ; otherwise they sprawl on the ground. 
Seed irregularly rounded, tolerably convex, intermediate in shape 
between the seed of a Lentil and that of a Vetch, of a gray-brown 
colour, streaked or marbled with black, floury, and rather agreeable 
in flavour. Its germinating power lasts for three years. The 
seed may be sown in autumn or in spring. The plant is much 
more frequently grown to furnish green fodder than for its seeds, 
and is mostly sown along with Rye or Oats, which furnish a support 
for its climbing stems. The seed is sometimes eaten boiled, like 
Lentils. 

LETTUCE 

Lactuca sativa, L. Compositce. 

French, Laitue cultivee. German, Lattich, Flemish and Dutch, Latouw. Danish, 
Salat. Italian, Lattuga. Spanish, Lechuga. Portuguese, Alface. 

Native of India or Central Asia. — Annual. — The origin of the 
cultivated Lettuce is not known for certain, any more than the 
time when it was first introduced into Europe ; neither can we be 
sure that the ancients knew anything about it. However, the great 



LETTUCE 



361 



number of varieties of it which now exist in cultivation, and the 
very permanent manner in which some of these varieties appear to 
be established, afford good grounds for the opinion that the plant 
has been cultivated for a very long time. 

The different varieties present such a diversity in the shape and 
colour of the leaves, that it is difficult to give a general description 
of the plant which will be applicable to all its forms. We may 
suppose, however, and especially from the fact that some Chinese 
varieties do not form a head, that in its original or natural state 
the Lettuce forms a rosette of broad and long leaves, somewhat 
spoon-shaped, and more or less undulated and toothed at the 
edges. From the centre of the rosette springs a nearly cylindrical 
stem, which narrows very rapidly and becomes branching at about 
one-third of its height, furnished with clasping leaves, which are 
auricled, and become narrower as they approach the top of the 
stem. The flower-heads are numerous, longer than broad, with 
pale yellow florets. Seed small, of a long almond shape, pointed 
at one end, marked with pretty deep longitudinal furrows, and 
usually either white or black, but sometimes brown or reddish 
yellow. Its germinating power lasts for five years. 

Good authorities appear inclined to refer all the cultivated 
varieties of Lettuce to two distinct botanical types, from one of 
which have been derived the Cabbage Lettuces, properly so called, 
which have rounded or flattened heads, while the other has been 
the parent of the Cos Lettuces, in which the head is tall and 
elongated in shape. We find it difficult to assent to this view of 
a twofold origin ; in the first place, because the two kinds pass into 
each other through almost imperceptible gradations ; and secondly, 
because as soon as they run to seed they present no difference 
between each other, which is conclusive proof of the identity of 
their origin. 

We have described the Cultivated Lettuce as an annual plant, 
because the growth of the flower-stem uninterruptedly succeeds that 
of the radical leaves which form the rosette, and because the rosette 
itself is completely formed in a few weeks, or, at most, in a few 
months. Nevertheless, several varieties are so hardy, that they 
may be sown in autumn, and, after withstanding the winter, will 
not run to seed until spring. All the varieties are by no means 
amenable to this treatment. On the other hand, there is a great 
deal of inequality in the degrees of readiness with which the 
different varieties run to seed under the influence of warm summer 
weather. These differences of constitution and suitability for 
various seasons have led to the division of the varieties of Lettuces 
into three classes, from a cultural point of view, viz. : 

I. Winter Lettuces, which, with a little care, will withstand 
ordinary winters in France, the south of England, etc. 



362 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



2. Spring Lettuces, which head rapidly when sown immedi- 
ately after winter. 

3. Summer Lettuces, which are usually larger than the 
spring kinds, and do not run to seed too fast in hot weather. 

Although this division is not very precise, we shall adopt it 
here, as affording a means of indicating the mode of culture suitable 
for each variety, without falling into endless repetitions. We shall 
accordingly first point out the treatment suitable for winter 
Lettuces in general, after which we shall enumerate and describe 
the varieties which come under that head, doing afterwards the 
same in the case of the spring and summer varieties. 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 

Lactuca capitata, D.C. 

French, Laitues pommees. German, Kopfsalat. Flemish and Dutch, Kropsalad. Italian, 
Lattuga a cappucio. Spanish, Lechuga acogollada. Portuguese, Alface repolhada. 

I. Winter Varieties 

These are sown from the middle of August to the middle of 
September. About the end of October, when the plants form a 
rosette 2 to 3 in. in diameter and have each five or six pretty strong 
leaves, they are planted out permanently in as warm and favourably 
situated a position as possible — preferably at the bottom of a 
south wall or in a thoroughly well-drained bed. In very frosty 
weather the plants should be protected with straw mats, which 
are to be taken off when the weather becomes mild. Winter 
Lettuces are not injured by snow — so far from it, that we some- 
times see varieties which are not very hardy pass through the 

winter in safety when well 
covered by it. In February 
the growth of the winter 
Lettuces becomes more active, 
and the heads begin to form 
at the end of April or early 
in May, the plants continuing 
to yield for six weeks to 
two months, until the spring 
Lettuces come in. 

Madeira Large Winter 
Cabbage Lettuce ( White- 
seeded). — This variety, when 
young, has the leaves very much rounded and entire in outline, 
the blade being slightly twisted and faintly crimped in the lower 
part, of a rather dark green, with brown spots interspersed. 
The colour becomes much Hghter as the plant increases in 




Madeira Large Winter Cabbage Lettuce 
(|- natural size). 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



363 



size. The full-grown plant is of medium size, inclined to be 
broad, and of low growth, the, leaves resting on the ground and 
forming a rosette somewhat irregular in outline, and 8 to 10 in. 
in diameter ; the outer leaves are not crimped, and are entire at the 
margin, but are broadly folded and twisted, and of a clear, light 
green colour marked with a few brown spots. The head is 
rounded, fairly thick, and pale green, tinged with red on the top. 
The leaves immediately surrounding it are crimped, rumpled, and 
tinged with red on the edges. This is considered one of the 
hardiest of all Lettuces, and is generally only used for winter 
culture in the open ground. If sown in spring, it runs to seed 
very quickly. 

White Madeira Lettuce {Black-seeded). — The young plant 
differs from the white-seeded Madeira Lettuce in the absence of the 
brown blotches on the outer leaves. It is a vigorous plant, pro- 
ducing large, well-filled round heads, somewhat flattened, with 
tones of silver, which are also seen on the lower side of the leaves. 
The inner leaves are rounded, with plain, unnotched margins. The 
outer leaves are large, not pointed, with ample folds and only 
slightly crimped. The plant is a whitish green colour through- 
out, without any coloured spots. It is more compact than the 
Large White Winter Lettuce, and is also a little earlier to head. 
It is proof against the Paris winter. 

Hammersmith, or Hardy Green Winter, Cabbage Lettuce 
{Laitue Marine) ( White-seeded). — The leaves of the young plant are 
nearly round, shortly spathulate, 
finely toothed near the base, 
entire on the rest of the margin, 
generally folded in the direction 
of the midrib, frequently hollowed 
out like a spoon, and of a light, 
pale, or yellow -green colour. The 
full-grown plant is rather thick- 
set, not exceeding 7 or 8 in. in 
diameter, and somewhat irre- 
gular in outline. Outer leaves ^^1%^ 

green not very large, longer Hammersmith Cabbage Lettuce. 

than broad, twisted considerably 

without being exactly folded, and partially crimped near the midrib, 
but not at the edges ; head rather close and tall, fairly solid and 
compact, and surrounded by leaves which are generally folded in 
two, almost like a twisted paper bag, very much crimped and a 
little paler in colour than the outer leaves. This variety is only 
used for winter culture. It is hardy and of good quality, and can 
be planted pretty close, which makes up in some degree for the 
small size of the individual plants. 




364 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Large White Winter Cabbage Lettuce {White-seedecT).— 
The leaves of the young plant are spathulate, slightly puckered 
or folded, faintly toothed near the base, spreading very much, and 
of a very light green colour. The full-grown plant is stout, broad, 

and tall, 10 to 12 in. in 
diameter, and very irregular 
in outline. The outer leaves 
are green, entire at the 
edges, but very much twisted 
and folded into broad un- 
dulations; head round, thick, 
light green in colour, com- 
posed of and surrounded by 
leaves which are very much 
crimped, folded, and twisted, 

Large White Winter Cabbage Lettuce the_ margins, however, being 

G natural size). entire or nearly so. This 

is very suitable for winter 
culture, being hardy, early, and very productive. It may also be 
sown in spring, and when raised at that time it keeps the head 
very long for a winter Lettuce. 

Tremont Winter Cabbage Lettuce {White-seeded).— Vt.xy 
hardy, and as productive as the Large White Winter Cabbage 
Lettuce, and a better header than the Madeira Lettuce. A large 
plant, with broad, rounded leaves of light green, forming good- 
sized heads, with enough outer leaves to protect it against the 
cold. Owing to its hardiness, size, and good quality it is one of 
the best for sowing in 
the latter half of August 
for use at the end of 
the winter. 

Brown Winter 
Cabbage Lettuce 
( White - seeded). — The 
young plant of this 
variety is very consider- 
ably deeper in colour 
than the young plant 
of the Red Winter 
Lettuce. Its leaves are 

shortly oblong, and Tremont Winter Cabbage Lettuce. 

angular in outline rather 

than really toothed ; the blade, which is sometimes slightly 
undulated, is hollowed out like a spoon, and blotched and plentifully 
tinged with brown. The full-grown plant is compact and rather 
thick-set. Leaves all more or less spoon-shaped, the outer ones 





CABBAGE LETTUCE 



365 



almost smooth ; head rounded, rather solid, composed of and 
surrounded by coarsely crimped, rather ruffled leaves of a very 
light green colour. The whole plant seldom exceeds 7 or 8 in. 
in diameter. This is a very hardy variety, excellent in quality, 
and taking up but little space 
when growing ; but it is only 
right to say that it runs to 
seed rather faster than the 
following kind. 

Hardy Red Winter 
Cabbage Lettuce ( White- 
seeded). — The leaves of the 
young plant are oblong, 
slightly narrowed at the ex- 
tremity, and having very 
much the appearance of Cos 
Lettuce leaves ; edge nearly entire, faintly undulated, only 
toothed on the lower third part ; in colour light green, slightly 
tinged and blotched with light brown. A vigorous plant, very 
hardy and quite distinct, with a tall, almost conical head, com- 
posed of leaves twisted like Cabbage leaves. The head is large, 
solid, and lasts a long time ; the leaves composing it are light 
green, tinged with brown along the edges. The outer leaves, 
which have felt the severity of the winter, are almost as dark 
as those of the Red Winter Cos Lettuce, particularly so towards 
the point. It is not very spreading, and may be planted 
fairly close. 

Roquette Cabbage Lettuce {White-seeded). — Under this 

name, a variety of winter 
Lettuce is grown which 
is remarkable for its 
dwarf size and the firm- 
ness of its head. The 
plant is very small and 
compact, with pale green 
leaves deeply tinged with 
bronzy red wherever it is 
exposed to the light, and 
in shape and general 
appearance it somewhat 
resembles a miniature 
Batavian Lettuce. When 
fully grown, it does not exceed 4 in. in diameter, and its small 
size makes it very suitable for growing in frames or under 
bell-glasses. 

The Silesian Winter Lettuce is a rather large and pretty hardy 




Brown Winter Cabbage Lettuce 
("I natural size). 




Hardy Red Winier Cabbage Lettuce. 



366 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



kind, somewhat resembling the White Batavian Lettuce. The 
leaves are large and twisted and pale green tinged with red. 
Head rather large, but flabby. This variety does not answer for 
summer culture. 

n. Spring Varieties 

These are sown in March, on a spent hot-bed,or simply on compost 
(rotted spent manure), at the foot of a south wall. The seedlings 
are planted out in April, and the plants may commence to be cut 
for use about the end of May or early in June. These may also 
(as is usually the practice with market-gardeners) be sown, where 
the crop is to stand, about the end of February, among other 
vegetables growing in pure compost, or in soil covered with a thick 
layer of compost. In this case the small varieties should be grown, 
as being less likely to interfere with the other vegetables among 
which they are sown. 

The spring varieties, especially the Crisped and Tennis-ball 
kinds {Laitue Crepe and L. Gotte), are those which are used for forcing. 
These two kinds, and especially the Black-seeded Crisped (Z. Crepe d 
Graine Noire) are sown in October in hot-beds, and are entirely 
grown either in frames or under bell-glasses. The last-named kind 
(the petite noire'' of the Paris market-gardeners) has the peculiarity 
of being able to grow almost entirely without air, so that it can be 
quickly raised with the help of a little artificial heat. The Tennis- 
ball is a more productive kind, but requires fresh air to be admitted 

from time to time. The 
sowings made in frames 
during winter may be 
finished off by a sowing 
made on the hot-beds 
with the frames and lights 
removed. The plants thus 
raised, and not trans- 
planted, will come in some 
days earlier than the first 
of those planted out in 
the open air. 

Milly Forcing Lettuce 
( White-seeded), — Does as 
well under glass in winter 
as in open culture during 
summer. The head is large, solid, and light green, much tinged 
with russet on the top and sometimes on the sides. It resembles 
closely the old Red-edged Victoria Lettuce, but is larger and is 
quicker to head. Sown in the autumn, and planted out under 




Milly Forcing Cabbage Lettuce. 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



367 




Black-seeded Crisped Cabbage 
Lettuce natural size). 



hand-bells or in frames, it is ready for use about the same time 
as the early spring varieties, but is much larger in size. 

The variety known in America by the name of Crisp^as-Ice 
Lettuce resembles it very closely, although rather lighter in colour. 

Black-seeded Crisped Cabbage Lettuce {Laitue Crepe a 
Graine Noire). — Young plant rather compact, with leaves nearly 
round in outline, but angularly indented. The young leaves begin 
very soon to fold themselves like a twisted paper bag. The full- 
grown plant is small, low, resting on 
the ground, of a very pale green, 
somewhat irregular in outline, and 6 
or 7 in. in diameter. Outer leaves 
broad but short, slightly undulated at 
the edges, twisted, and very sparingly 
crimped ; head round, slightly flattened, 
formed of leaves which are paler in 
colour, but much less crimped and 
curled than those of the White-seeded 
Tennis-ball Lettuce ; it is firm and 
forms quickly, but does not last long. This variety is chiefly 
grown for an early crop under bell-glasses and in frames, in winter 
and early spring. 

White-Seeded Crisped, or Early Paris Cutting, Cabbage 
Lettuce. — The leaves of the young plant are broad and short, with 
an angular or bluntly toothed outline, and light green in colour, 
which changes almost to a butter-yellow in the parts exposed to the 
sun. The full-grown plant is of medium size, about 8 in. in 
diameter, with leaves of a light green colour, very much curled and 
undulated. Outer leaves very much folded and waved at the 
edges, broadly and bluntly toothed, and coarsely crimped here and 
there ; head of medium size, tall, formed of leaves which are 
paler and much more crimped than the outer ones, and also more 
curled than those of the Black-seeded Tennis-ball Lettuce. It 
is generally soft, although very full, forms 
quickly, but is soon put out of shape by 
the quick growth of the flower-stem. This 
variety is well adapted for spring culture, 
especially in the open air. When sown in 
autumn, it bears the winter pretty well. 

White-seeded Tennis-ball, or Boston 
Market, Cabbage Lettuce {Laitue gotte gr. 
bl.). — The young plant of this variety has 
leaves of a very light green colour (which become yellow where it 
is exposed to the sun), and of an outline which is angular rather than 
decidedly toothed, except at the base. The young leaves begin 
very soon to become crimped and rumpled, and plants which have 




White - seeded Tennis - ball 
Cabbage Lettuce natural 
size). 



368 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



not made a dozen leaves will sometimes exhibit the rudiments of a 
head. The full-grown plant is small and thick-set, about 6 in. in 
diameter, and roundish in its outlines. Outer leaves rounded and 
partially crimped, with edges almost entire, but very much folded 
and sinuated ; head small, but rather compact, of a pale, almost 
yellow, green, and formed of leaves which are much, more crimped 
and sinuated than the outer ones. Though of small size, it is very 
productive. It grows rapidly, keeps the head well, and may be 
planted very close. It is especially suitable for a spring crop — that 
is, to be sown immediately after winter, and cut for use before 
summer. Sown in autumn it bears the winter well, but for this 
purpose we have other varieties which are hardier and much more 
productive. For summer culture also, although this kind is not 
particularly liable to run to seed, the true summer Lettuces are to 
be preferred. 

There is another form of White-seeded Tennis-ball named 
Laitue Gotte Doree, or L. Gotte Jaune Or (the Golden Tennis- 
ball), which is very like the variety next described, but runs to seed 
sooner. 

Early White Spring, or Paris Market Forcing, Cabbage 
Lettuce {Laitue gotte gr. n.) {Black-seeded). — The young plant differs 
very little from the preceding variety, except that its leaves are more 
crimped and folded. The full-grown plant is smaller than the pre- 
ceding, and has the head flattened and never very firm. . In all other 
respects the two are much alike, and are grown in the same way. 

French Tom Thumb Lettuce {Laitue Gotte Lente d M outer) 
{Black-seeded). — The leaves of the young plant are a rather dark 

green, rounded, entire, hollowed 
like a spoon, and with one-half 
almost always folded back. The 
central leaves begin to become 
crimped very early. The full- 
grown plant is low and rather 
thick-set, irregular in outline, and 
6 or 7 in. in diameter. Outer 
leaves falling back on the ground, 
French Tom Thumb Lettuce. rather short and Stiff, and dark 

green in colour, generally folded 
along the midrib, with one half flat and the other turned up, and 
pretty well crimped ; central leaves also more or less folded, with 
numerous and prominent crimpings, forming a head of medium 
size, very firm and compact, green on the outside, very tender, 
and keeping for a long time, even in summer. This variety is 
rather small, but comparatively very productive and early, and 
keeps the head well ; it is one of the best for spring and summer 
culture. The head is tender and of excellent quality. 




CABBAGE LETTUCE 



369 



Wheeler's Tom Thumb Lettuce {B/ack-seeded).— Light green, 
with almost round leaves, slightly crimped and finely toothed near 
the base. It resembles the Algiers Lettuce, and still more closely 
the Early White Spring Lettuce, but it has smaller outer leaves. 
Its small size enables it to be planted very close, and it is well 
adapted for frames. 

Red-edged Victoria Cabbage Lettuce ( White-seeded). — Leaves 
of young plant rounded, folded in the lower part, and flat or 
slightly hollowed out like a spoon in the rest of the blade, light 
green in colour, faintly tinged with yellow on the parts exposed to 
the sun. Full-grown plant compact, 8 or 9 in. in diameter ; outer 
leaves rounded, nearly flat, resting on the ground ; those surround- 
ing the head slightly crimped, and pale, yellowish green, tinged 
with red at the edges ; head very solid, and compact, looking as if 




Wheeler's Tom Thumb Lettuce. Red-edged Victoria Cabbage Lettuce. 



twisted, and of a yellowish light green and tinged with red on the 
top. This is the most productive of all the spring Lettuces. It is 
also slower in forming the head than any other kind, and may be 
regarded as the connecting-link between the spring and the summer 
varieties. The head is very tender and, at the same time, very 
firm. It is one of the best kinds either for the private kitchen- 
garden or for market-gardening purposes, and a very good variety 
for forcing. 

The following varieties are only occasionally met with in 
cultivation : — 

Laitue Bigotte. — Head medium-sized or large, round, very 
light-coloured green, deeply tinged with red. A fine, early, and 
productive kind. 

Laitue Cocasse a Graine Noire.— Leaves of a light glaucous 
green, crimped ; those around the head folded back ; head very 
firm and solid. The white-seeded form of this kind exhibits hardly 
any difference from it. 

Coquille Cabbage Lettuce.— A small variety, with a tall head. 
Leaves stiff, crimped, folded in two, and turned back at the ends. 
The appearance of the plant is almost intermediate between that of 
a Cabbage and a Cos Lettuce. It is a pretty early kind, but not 
very productive. 



24 



370 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Green Tennis-ball Cabbage Lettuce. — Leaves of the young 
plant broad, very entire, rounded, not toothed, except merely at the 
base, and a vivid green. The head is slow in forming. Full-grown 
plant small, 7 or 8 in. in diameter, with an erect head ; leaves 
narrow, and very dark green, by which it is distinguished from all 
other Lettuces ; the outer ones almost flat, very like those of the 
Lettuce-leaved Spinach, the central ones tolerably crimped, and 
forming a head which is at least as tall as it is broad, and is never 
very solid ; seed black. This is an old variety, without any great 
merit except its hardiness. 

Green Crisped Cabbage Lettuce.— Leaves large, undulated, 
curled at the edges, and light green ; head medium-sized, somewhat 
flattened, and tinged with brown on the top. A hardy kind, but 
not very tender or well flavoured. 

Laitue Dauphine. — Leaves large, marked with a few red spots ; 
head tall, not very solid, light green, slightly tinged with red on the 
top. In appearance this variety somewhat resembles the Large or 
White Summer Cabbage Lettuce, except that it is of a darker 
green. Seed black. 

George Early White Spring Cabbage Lettuce. — Leaves 



whole of the plant forming the head, with short spoon-shaped 
leaves. Head round and close. This is an early and tender 
variety, but is liable to rot very easily. 

Mousseronne Cabbage Lettuce. — Leaves medium - sized, 
curled and toothed, slightly crimped, and light green edged with 
brown ; head small and loose, russet tinged ; seed white. This 
variety is very early, but heads badly. It may also be grown as a 
cutting Lettuce, like the George Lettuce. 

Some foreign varieties of spring Lettuces may be here men- 
tioned, of which the best and most commonly grown are the 
following : — 

Early Cabbage, or Dutch Butter-head, Lettuce.— A small 
and very distinct variety, with crimped leaves, blotched with 
pale brown. Head firm and compact, tinged with red, and 
scarcely as large as that of the Tom Thumb Lettuce. Seed 
white. 




large, roundish, and not much 
undulated ; head round, light 
coloured, of medium size, com- 
posed of broadly crimped leaves. 
This variety is not so good as the 
Crisped or Tennis-ball kinds, and 
is most commonly grown as a 
cutting Lettuce. Seed white. 



George Lettuce. 



Laitue Grasse de Bourges. — 

A rather compact kind, nearly the 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



371 



Earliest Dwarf Green Lettuce. — A pretty little green variety, 
Tcry thick-set and distinct, although evidently not far removed 

from the Tom Thumb Lettuce. Seed 
black. 

Laitue Empereur a Forcer. — This 
small variety, which is very early, very 
much resembles the White-seeded Tennis- 
ball Lettuce, but is somewhat lighter in 
colour, and runs to seed sooner. 

Hubbard's Forcing Lettuce. — A 
large, light-coloured American kind, some- 
thing like the White-seeded Tennis-ball and the White Summer 
Cabbage Lettuce. It is forced under glass in spring. 




Earliest Dwarf Green Lettuce 
(■^ natural size). 



III. Summer Varieties 



The culture of these is of the most simple kind. The seed is 
sown in a seed-bed from March to July, and the seedlings are 
usually pricked out once before they are planted out permanently, 
which is done when they have made five or six good leaves. After 
this, they require no further attention except frequent and plentiful 
waterings. A good mulching of manure spread amongst them will 
keep the soil cool and moist and stimulate the growth of the plants. 

Algiers Lettuce {Black-seeded). — In general appearance this 
variety resembles the Red-edged Victoria Lettuce, but is smaller 
and of a darker green. 
A very nice little 
Lettuce, suitable both 
for the market and the 
kitchen garden. In the 
climate of Paris it is 
a spring and summer 
Lettuce, but in climates 
where there are no hard 
frosts it may be grown 
for a winter crop. It 
can bear close planting, 
like the Tom Thumb 
Lettuce. 

White - seeded 
All - the - Year - Round 

Lettuce {Laitue blonde d'e'te'). — Leaves of young plant 
green, short, entire, rounded, very faintly toothed at the 
and slightly undulating. Full-grown plant with a round. 




THCBAULT- 



Algiers Lettuce. 



light 

base, 
com- 



pact, very solid head, of a very pale green; outer leaves short, 



372 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



rounded, very entire at the edges, but finely crimped and slightly 
undulated ; the plant is 6 to 8 in. in diameter. An excellent 
variety, one of the most commonly grown, as shown by the 
great number of names which it bears. It is hardy and very 
productive, being, as the 
gardeners say, " all head." 
It makes a fine, tender, 
crisp salad, and grows 
well in almost any soil, 
so that it is found in 
cultivation almost all over 
the world. 




White -seeded All-the-Year-Round 
Lettuce natural size). 




Marvel of Cazard Cabbage Lettuce. 



Marvel of Cazard Cabbage Lettuce {Black-seeded). — Re- 
sembles the preceding, but superior to it. The head is round, very 
solid, not liable to split nor to grow out of shape, and always white 
and tender, with outer leaves of light green, broad and well 
crimped. A vigorous half-early variety. 

Black-seeded All-the-Year-Round Cabbage Lettuce {Blonde 
de Berlin), — Young plant of a light green colour ; leaves rounded, 




Black-seeded All-the-Year-Round 
Cabbage Lettuce. 



Golden-head Cabbage Lettuce. 



entire at the edges, and with a tendency to become twisted in the 
shape of a paper bag. Head of full-grown plant round, soft, but 
very full ; outer leaves broadly crimped, rounded, entire, and very 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



373 



pale green or almost yellow ; those surrounding the head are more 
erect and less folded than they are in the preceding kind. The 
head is also somewhat taller. The plant is seldom more than 8 in. 
in diameter. 

Golden-head Cabbage Lettuce {White-seeded). — Rounded 
leaves of light golden-green, crimped, with strongly marked veins. 
The full-grown leaves are a light gold colour, soft, and slightly 
twisted. The leaves of the head are lighter still, and form a 
compact head, which is tall, though not very large. 

Large Versailles Cabbage Lettuce {W kite- seeded),— Yo\xn% 
plant of a rather light green colour ; leaves rounded, entire, with 
visible veinings. It resembles the young plant of the Large White 
Cabbage Lettuce, but is larger at the same age. Head of full- 
grown plant round or somewhat long, very firm and solid, and 
rather pale green ; outer leaves very large, entire, rather dark green, 
folded and crimped, especially about the midrib ; those surrounding 




Large Versailles Cabbage Lettuce. Chavigny White Lettuce (-^ natural size^. 



the head are broadly undulated and twisted in all directions, giving 
the plant a somewhat irregular appearance. The plant is lo or 
1 1 in. in diameter. 

Chavigny White Lettuce {Laztue Blonde de Chavigni) 
( White- seeded). — Young plant of a light green colour, and exceed- 
ingly like the young plant of the White Summer Cabbage Lettuce, 
only not so light coloured ; the leaves also are rather narrower 
towards the base. Head of full-grown plant large, full, and 
compact, pale green, almost yellow, on the top ; outer leaves very 
much rounded in outline, with a few coarse, broad crimpings, and 
not nearly so pale in colour as the leaves which form the head ; 
plant 8 to 10 in. in diameter. This is a very fine variety, regular 
in shape, quick in forming the head, slow in running to seed, and 
yielding, with less bulk, quite as heavy a crop as the Large 
Versailles Lettuce. It is highly to be recommended. 

White Stone, or Nonpareil, Cabbage Lettuce {Laitue grosse 
blonde paresseuse) ( White-seeded), — Young plant rather light green ; 
leaves rounded, or shortly spathulate, flat, toothed and undulated on 



374 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




White Stone, or Nonpareil, Cabbage Lettuce 
(l natural size). 



the lower half. Head of full-grown plant large and tall, but flattened 
on the top, of a very pale yellowish green, almost the colour of 
wax or butter ; outer leaves large, very much rounded, slightly 
crimped, and not quite so pale in colour as the head ; plant about 

12 in. in diameter. This 
fine Lettuce is large-sized 
and productive. It grows 
well and keeps the head 
perfectly in very hot weather. 

Turkish, or Butter, 
Russian or Asiatic, 
Cabbage Lettuce {Black- 
seeded). — Young plant of a 
uniform dull, pale green ; 
leaves short, rounded, spath- 
ulate, and slightly toothed 
on the whole of the margin. 
Head of full-grown plant 
rounded, slightly flattened, of a very pale green, almost white ; 
outer leaves resting on the ground, rounded, very entire, scarcely 
crimped, of an exceedingly pale green, and of an appearance 
betokening great thickness. The outside face of the leaves is of 
a still lighter tint and sometimes silvery. All the leaves are very 
entire, and those which form the head and also those which 
immediately surround it are rather crimped. Plant 8 or lo in. 
in diameter. 

Imperial, or Asiatic, Cabbage Lettuce {White-seeded). — 
Young plant of a uniform pale and rather dull green ; leaves round, 
short, flat, and bluntly 
toothed on the whole of 
the margin. This variety 
only differs from the pre- 
ceding one in the colour 
of its seed, which is white. 
Both kinds are only suit- 
able for summer culture, 
for which they are highly 
to be recommended, as 
they are very productive 
and bear hot dry weather 
well. 

The Laitue Caladoise 
and the German variety named Perpignaner Dauerkopf come very 
close to the Imperial Lettuce. 

Green Fat Cabbage Lettuce {Black-seeded).— Yo\mg plant 
dark green ; leaves short, rounded, or bluntly spathulate, very 




Imperial, or Asiatic, Cabbage Lettuce 
natural size). 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



375 



slightly toothed on the margin, the lower ones crimped and twisted. 
Head of full-grown plant rounded or slightly flattened, close, firm, 
and surrounded by leaves with entire edges, all broadly crimped, 
light green, dark on the upper surface and almost silvery on the 
under-side ; outer leaves very 
round, small, entire, and smooth. 
All the leaves are stiff and of 
a dense texture, somewhat re- 
sembling Spinach leaves. The 
plant is from about 7 to 9 in. 
in diameter. This is a good 
summer Lettuce, yielding a 
heavy crop with small bulk, 
and keeping the head very 
well. 




Green Fat Cabbage Lettuce (-g- natural size). 



Large Normandy Lettuce {Yellow-seeded). — Young plant 
dark green ; leaves long, spathulate, usually twisted, toothed 
towards the base, and angular on the remainder of the margin, 
almost more like the leaves of the Batavian Endive than Lettuce 
leaves. Head of full-grown plant rounded or slightly elongated, 
rather thick, very solid, slightly crimped, and pale green ; outer 
leaves rounded, of a dense texture, very entire at the edges, of a 
uniform dark green colour, and coarsely crimped here and there. 
Some of the leaves spread on the ground and others stand erect 
around the head. The diameter ranges from 10 to 12 in. This 
variety is something like the Large Versailles Lettuce in appear- 
ance, but its leaves are considerably darker in colour, and it is 
unmistakably distinguished by the colour of the seed. 

Red-edged Trocadero, or Big Boston, Lettuce {White- 
seeded). — Light green leaves on the young plant slightly undulating 

and with a red tinge on the 
edge ; the outer leaves medium 
size, rounded, waving, ash-green ; 
those of the head are turned 
inwards, and paler, and tinged 
with purple-red. The head is 
flat, irregular, very like that of 
the Crisped Lettuce, very com- 
pact, firm, red on the top, and 
easy to recognise. Succeeds 
everywhere and in any kind of 
cultivation. 




Red-edged Trocadero Cabbage Lettuce, 



Unrivalled, or Improved Big Boston, Cabbage Lettuce ( White- 
seeded). — An improvement on the foregoing. The head is very 
large, very solid, and excellent in quality. The outer leaves are 
not very large, and are light green and well crimped. Remarkable 



376 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



for early and quick growth ; it forms its head in six weeks, at least 
ten days before the Trocadero Lettuce. May be sown the whole 
season, and is fit for use during the greater part of the year. In 
summer, when most other sorts are withering or running to seed, it 

keeps its head very 
well. 

Mogul Cabbage, 
or Black-seeded Giant 
Summer, Lettuce 

{Laitue Grosse Bruite 
P aresseuse) {Black- 
seeded). — Young plant 
of a rather pale dull 
green, marked with 
brown spots ; leaves 
short, rounded, entire 
at the end and toothed 
along the sides. This 
is a large strong- 
growing kind, the full- 
grown plant being 




Unrivalled Cabbage Lettuce. 



Cabbage Lettuce {^Laitue 



about I ft. in diameter. Outer leaves very large, light green, much 
paler on the inner side, folded rather than crimped, and marked, 
as are all the other leaves, with brown spots ; head tall, compact, 
tinged with brown-red on the top, and composed of leaves which 
are tolerably crimped, and become spoon-shaped as they overlap 
one another. This is a very hardy and exceedingly productive 
kind, very suitable for field culture. The Berlaimont Lettuce, 
which is in high repute in the north of France, appears to us to be 
identical with it 

White-seeded Brown Dutch 
monte-d-peine gr. bl.). — Young 
plant dull green, tinged with 
brown on the veins ; leaves 
rounded, spathulate, slightly 
toethed towards the base, the 
central ones soon becoming 
crimped and undulated. Head 
of the full-grown plant rounded, 
or slightly elongated, very full 
and firm, pale green, deeply 
tinged with red on top; outer 
leaves rounded, with entire margins, crimped, of a gray-green 
colour, edged and tinged with light brown ; those which surround 
the head are very much crimped, folded, and twisted. All the 
parts exposed to the sun, whether on the upper or lower side 




Mogul Cabbage Lettuce (|- natural size). 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



377 



of the leaves, become tinged with coppery red. This is a very 
good kind ; it is hardy, keeps the head well, and does not take 
up too much space when growing. The plant does not exceed 
from 8 to lO in. in diameter. 

Brown Genoa Cabbage Lettuce 
[Laitue Palatine) {Black - seeded). — 
Young plant green, tinged with brown ; 
leaves rather short, rounded, spathulate, 
entire at the margin, except towards 
the base, where it is toothed ; veinings 
red. Head of full-grown plant medium j^.-^ -^^xr-^ 

size or large, rounded, very solid without Brown Genoa Cabbage Lettuce 

being hard, and deeply tinged with a natural size), 

brown-red on the top ; outer leaves rather large, entire at the 
edges, but crimped, folded, and twisted, tinged with red and with 
dark brown blotches interspersed ; plant lO to 12 in. in diameter. 
This variety is one of the hardiest and least troublesome to grow. 
No other kind is superior to it for summer or autumn culture, 
either in productiveness or the certainty of the crop. It heads 

very quickly, keeps the 
head well, and withstands 
the early frosts in the 
latter end of autumn. 
During the latter part of 
summer and all through 
the autumn it furnishes 
more than half of the 
Cabbage Lettuces which 
are sent to the Central 
Market at Paris. 

Giant Summer 
Cabbage Lettuce 
{Yellow-seeded'). — In the 
young plant light green 
leaves turning to yellow 
under the action of the 
sun; leaves long-stalked 
and spiny at the edges, 
slightly folded outwards. 
At maturity the leaves 
are large, crimped, and 
yellow-white. The head 
is tall, large, rising well 
out of the leaves, tinged with red, and sometimes spotted brown 
at the edge. A good summer Lettuce, keeping its head well, 
and very productive. 





Giant Summer Cabbage Lettuce. 



378 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Brown Stonehead, or Blockhead, Lettuce {White- seeded) 
The leaves in the young plant light green, streaked with brown 
towards the edges and slightly crimped, rounded, and somewhat 
recurving. In the full-grown plant the outer leaves are large, 

crimped, and tinged brown ; 
the head green, marked 
with bronze - coloured 
blotches, which are most 
conspicuous on the crimp- 
ings. It is a splendid 
summer Lettuce, heading 
promptly and not very apt 
to run to seed. 

Marvel, or Red Besson, 
Cabbage Lettuce {Black- 
seeded). — Young plant of 

Brown Stonehead, or Blockhead, Cabbage Lettuce. vigorOUS growth, tinged all 

over with brownish red ; 
leaves short, almost round, very entire, with the edges turned up in 
a kind of spoon shape. The plant is easily recognised from its 
earliest age by its colour. The full-grown plant is stout and rather 
thick-set, and of rapid growth. Head rounded, slightly flattened on 
the top, where it is deeply tinged with bright red, which contrasts 
in a striking manner with the very pale tint of those parts of the 
plant which are not exposed to the sun. The outer leaves are 
similarly coloured with red on the exposed parts. All the leaves 
are rounded in outline, more or less undulated, and coarsely 
crimped here and there. This is the most highly coloured of all 
the Lettuces which are commonly grown about Paris, and is of a 
still deeper red than the old variety known as the Roitge Chart7'euse. 
The plant is about i ft. in 
diameter. This variety may 
be grown almost all the year 
round, as one of its French 
names indicates, but it does 
best in spring and summer. 
The head forms very quickly 
and keeps firm for a long 
time, even in very hot 
weather. 

Improved Spotted 
Cabbage Lettuce {Laitue 
Sanguine Ainelio?re) {^White-seeded). — Young plant marked with 
very small and fine red spots and streaks ; .leaves rounded, entire, 
undulated or folded. In the central leaves the green colour 
disappears altogether under the numerous small red-brown spots 





Marvel, or Red Besson, Cabbage Lettuce. 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



379 




with which they are covered. In the full-grown plant the head is 
exceedingly close, of medium size, round, or slightly flattened on 
the top, the inner leaves being very much folded and of an ivory- 
white, very finely and plentifully 
streaked with carmine. The top 
of the head is of a deep copper 
colour. The outer leaves, which are 
small, numerous, and less crimped 
as they are nearer to the ground, 
are covered with a vast number of 
small red spots, which give the 
whole plant a bronzy tinge. The 
plant seldom exceeds from 7 to 9 in. 
in diameter. This variety, althou^ 

also early and keeps the head well. The very lively colour of 
the spots forms a pleasing contrast on the leaves when they are 
blanched, making a nice-looking salad, which is at the same time 
tender and of excellent quality. 

Early Ohio, or Nonpareil, Lettuce( White-seeded). — When young 
the leaves are very light green, undulating, fringed and closely 
crimped, the inner leaves erect. A very pretty variety, something 
like the Simpson Lettuce, but with smaller, whiter, finer cut, and 
more erect leaves, and also heading more readily. The head is rather 
tall and pointed, something like that of the Hooded or Hardy 
Green Winter Endive. It is a true summer Lettuce, very tender 
and crisp, well suited for hot climates, and welcome everywhere. 



Improved Spotted Cabbage Lettuce 
natural size). 

;h small, is productive. It is 





Early Ohio, or Nonpareil, Cabbage 
Lettuce. 



Early Simpson Cabbage Lettuce 
{\ natural size). 



Early Simpson Cabbage Lettuce ( White-seeded). — Young plant 
pale green, almost yellow ; leaves angular, very much undulated at 
the margin, curled and rumpled. Head of full-grown plant seldom 
well formed ; leaves large, light green, with a shining surface, very 
fresh and pleasing- to the sight, very much curled and undulated, - 
finely crimped, very numerous, and tender even when they do not 
form a head. This is one of the best summer Lettuces, and is very 



380 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




White Silesian Lettuce natural size). 



suitable for growing in warm climates. All it requires is to be 
plentifully watered. 

The Early Silesian Lettuce and the American varieties named 
the Hanson Lettuce, New Large-head Lettuce, Hamilton Market 
Lettuce, Large Indian Lettuce, and Early Curled Silesian LettucCy 

all come so near the Early 
Simpson, that it is difficult 
to discover any difference 
between them. 

White Batavian, or 
Silesian, Lettuce {White- 
seeded). — Young plant of 
light or yellow green ; leaves 
slightly toothed, undulated, 
and tinged with pale red 
on the margin. Head of 
full-grown plant very large, 
but not very firm, pale 
green tinged with light red, rounded or slightly flattened ; outer 
leaves broad, curled, finely crimped, very much undulated and 
broadly toothed at the edges, where they are also slightly tinged 
with red. The plant is 12 to 14 in. in diameter. 

The variety named Laitue Belle et Bonne de Bruxelles comes 
very near the White Silesian. Sometimes it is almost entirely 
without the red tinge, and then it very much resembles the 
following kind. 

Curled German Batavian, or Curled Silesian, Cabbage 
Lettuce {White-seeded). — Leaves of the young plant broad and 
short, with the edges scalloped and undulated, and of a light, 
slightly yellowish, green colour. 
Head of full-grown plant large, 
soft, rounded or slightly flat- 
tened, and very pale green ; 
outer leaves crimped, curled, 
and slightly cut at the edges. 
The plant is il or 12 in. in 
diameter. With the exception 
of its very light colour, this 
variety is not unlike the 
Neapolitan Cabbage Lettuce. 
It is a vigorous-growing kind, 
very easily grown, and yields a sure crop in summer. 

Brown Batavian, or Marseilles, Cabbage Lettuce {White- 
seeded). — Young plant very dark green ; leaves very long, narrow, 
sharply toothed at the edges ; midrib and margin of the leaves 
tinged with brown. Head of full-grown plant very tall and 




Curled German Batavian Lettuce 
{\ natural size). 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



381 




Brown Batavian, or Marseilles, Cabbage Lettuce 
(•J natural size). 



elongated, more like the head of a Cos than that of a Cabbage 
Lettuce, almost always soft, and seldom well formed ; outer leaves 
very large, erect for some portion of their length, then turned 
backwards, crimped, very much undulated and puckered at the 
edges, and of a dark green 
colour tinged with brown on 
all the parts that are most 
exposed to the sun. The 
plant is about 16 in. in 
diameter, and nearly the 
same in height. This variety 
does not succeed well in the 
climate of Paris, but is in 
high repute in warm climates, 
and even in the south of 
France. 

Neapolitan Cabbage 
Lettuce ( White - seeded ) . — 
Young plant dark green ; 
leaves shortly spathulate, 
wavy at the edges, toothed, and slightly crimped. Head of full- 
grown plant large, depressed, sometimes almost flat, whitish green, 
and slightly crimped ; outer leaves of a rather dark green, spreading 
on the ground, finely crimped, very much curled and undulated 
at the edges. The plant is often 12 to 14 in. in diameter. This 
variety keeps the head better, perhaps, than any other kind of 
Lettuce. It often happens that the flower-stem is unable to make 
its way through the head, unless the latter is cut so as to give 
it a passage. 

Blockhead, Lettuce ( White-seeded). — 
very light green, almost white, tinged 
yellow, sparingly crimped, 
much waving at the edges 
and slightly fringed or cut 
The head is very large, rather 
flat and solid ; the outer leaves 
are large, broad, spreading, 
very finely crimped, and 
waving at the edges, much 
like those of Neapolitan 
Lettuce, but much lighter in 
colour. An excellent summer 
Lettuce much grown by market-gardeners around Paris. 

Large Bossin Cabbage Lettuce {Black-seeded).— Yowng plant 
a light green, almost yellow, with some brown spots ; leaves 
longish, toothed, and tinged with brown on the veins and edges. 



Blond Stonehead, or 

The leaves at first are a 




Neapolitan Cabbage Lettuce Q natural size). 



382 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Blond Blockhead Cabbage-Lettuce. 



Head of full-grown plant large, flat, li^ht green, tinged with 
brown ; outer leaves very large and luxuriant, spreading widely on 
the ground, and forming a rosette i6 in. or more in diameter, very 

much toothed and un- 
dulated at the edges, 
slightly crimped, and 
irregularly shaded and 
spotted with red-brown. 
This is a very vigorous- 
growing and hardy kind, 
bearing hot weather 
well, but the weight of 
the produce is not in 
proportion to the extent 
of ground covered by 
the plants. 

Malta, or Ice, 
Drumhead Lettuce 
( White-seeded). — Young 
plant a uniform light 
green ; leaves spathulate, 
long, veined, much toothed, and slightly undulated on the whole 
of the margin, and somewhat twisted. Head of full-grown plant 
composed of pale green leaves, which are folded and marked 
with elongated crimpings. When the head is commencing to 
form, it is something like that of a Cos Lettuce, but it widens 
and becomes nearly round when fully grown. The midribs of 
the leaves are thick, 
and often project 
from the head. Outer 
leaves very large, 
light green, with the 
edges folded, slightly 
cut, and sometimes 
rolled inwards on the 
under-side. The 
plant is 12 to 14 in. in 
diameter, and about 
the same in height. 
The Malta Lettuce 
grows rapidly, and 
bears hot weather 
well, but it does not keep the head long. It is especially suitable 
for warm climates. 

Green Madrid Cabbage Lettuce {Black-seeded). — The head 
in the full-grown plant is tall, with outer leaves of a glossy dark 




Large Bossin Cabbage Lettuce natural size). 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



383 




Malta, or Ice, Drumhead Lettuce 
(J- natural size). 



green^ An excellent winter Lettuce, keeping well and very pro- 
ductive. Although hardy enough for the Paris winter, in mild 
climates its good qualities are seen to perfection. Being of 
compact growth, it may be planted 
close. 

Lebceuf Lettuce ( White- 
seeded). — Young plant dark green; 
leaves very large, the first spa- 
thulate and flat, the succeeding 
ones shorter, crimped at the base, 
with broad white midribs, and 
more like the leaves of a Cos 
than those of a Cabbage Lettuce. 
Head of full-grown plant tolerably 
like that of a Cos Lettuce, com- 
posed of leaves pressed close to, 
but not regularly overlapping, 
one another ; outer leaves elongated, erect for a portion of their 
length, and then turned backwards near the end, all more or 
less folded in the direction of the midrib, and folded, crimped, 
and often twisted at the edges. The plant is 7 or 8 in. in diameter, 
and as much, or even more, in height. Except that its leaves are 
somewhat stouter and larger, this variety is tolerably like a Ground 
Cos Lettuce. It has the peculiarity of frequently producing shoots 
at the base of the head. 

In addition to the summer Lettuces already described, the 
following varieties appear to us the best and most distinct: — 

Bellegarde Cabbage Lettuce {White-seeded). — A tall, broad 
plant, the head surrounded with large leaves, which are cut and 
deeply toothed on the edges. In general appearance it resembles 
the Large Bossin Cabbage Lettuce, but is smaller and rather more 

deeply coloured. 

Brown Cabbage Lettuce 
( Yellow-seeded). — This variety comes 
very near the Brown Dutch Lettuce 
in shape, colour, and general ap- 
pearance, but differs from it in 
having the leaves more crimped 
and of a rather redder tinge, and 
differs entirely from it in the yellow 
colour of the seed. In Anjou there 
is another yellow-seeded kind grown, 
which must not be confounded with 
this one. The Anjou variety is small, entirely green, and is chiefly 
adapted for winter culture, but it is not very extensively dis- 
tributed, nor does it seem deserving of being more so. 




LebcEuf Lettuce. 



384 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Black-seeded Brown Dutch Cabbage 
Lettuce. 



Black-seeded Brown Dutch Cabbage Lettuce {Laitue Rousse 
Hollandaise gr. n.). — Young plant of a dull green colour, slightly 
tinged with light brown ; leaves short, roundish, or spathulate, 
finely toothed towards the base, where they are of a reddish colour, 

as are also the veins. This variety 
differs from the Brown Genoa 
Cabbage Lettuce chiefly in having 
no spots on the leaves, and the 
plant altogether is not so brown. 
In other respects the two kinds 
are much alike in size and general 
appearance. 

Dutch Cabbage Lettuce 
{Black-seeded). — Young plant of a 
uniform dark green, leaves short, 
rounded, flat, slightly toothed near 
the base, the inner leaves crimped and sinuated. Head of full- 
grown plant small, round, very close and hard, and surrounded by 
entire, crimped, and slightly undulated leaves, which form a very 
compact rosette. The plant is, at most, from 6 to 8 in. in diameter. 
Its general appearance resembles that of the Large White Cabbage 
Lettuce, with which, however, it cannot be confounded, if the 
difference in the colour of the leaves and of the seed is taken 
into consideration. Small-sized Lettuces, like this variety, are 
often valuable to gardeners for growing amongst other vegetables. 

Cendrette du Havre Lettuce. — A handsome summer Lettuce 
of medium size, somewhat like the Trocadero Lettuce, but with the 
leaves more crimped, and tinged with darker brown on the top. 

Fontenay Lettuce. — A fine variety of Cabbage Lettuce, very 
slow in running to seed, large and productive. It resembles the 
Turkish Cabbage Lettuce, but is larger. It is very light coloured 
in all its parts. 

Frankfort Lettuce. — A handsome variety. 
Black-seeded All the Year Round 
Cabbage Lettuce, but not so broad, 
and with a taller, egg-shaped head, 
of a peculiar gold shade. 

Mortatella Cabbage Lettuce.— 
A very distinct variety, of Italian 
origin. A peculiarity which belongs 
almost exclusively to this Lettuce is 
that the stem is long like that of many 
round-headed Cabbages (especially those sown in autumn), in 
consequence of which the large outer leaves, instead of forming 
a rosette close to the ground, grow in tiers, the head forming at 
some distance above the soil. These outer leaves are of a dark 



resembling 



the 




Black-seeded Dutch Cabbage 
Lettuce natural size). 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



38s 



dull green, short, rounded, and often hollowed like a spoon. The 
head is compact, of medium size, a little longer than broad, and 
frequently tinged with red on the upper part ; it preserves its shape 
for a long time. The axillary buds of the lower leaves sometimes 



except that it is much lighter in colour. It is very much grown 
and highly thought of in the central parts of France. 

New Gem Cabbage Lettuce. — A pretty little kind, with a 
compact head, almost devoid of outer leaves. It takes up very 
little space when growing, and produces a comparatively large 
and very solid head. In general appearance the plant is rather 
Hke the Roquette Lettuce, but is somewhat larger growing, and 
does not bear the winter. 

Pas de Calais Cabbage Lettuce. — Young plant of a uniform 
dark green colour ; leaves elongated spoon-shaped, slightly angular 
at the margin, and toothed and undulated towards the base. The 
full-grown plant is stout, and rather like the Mogul Cabbage Lettuce, 
but differing from it notably in the total absence of brown spots from 
the leaves. It is also somewhat taller, and the .head is more ovoid 
in shape and of a bronzy, rather than a red, colour in the parts 
exposed to the sun. Seed black. ^ 

Laitue Rose, ou Rouge d'Ete. — A very distinct variety, not 
spotted, but very deeply tinged with brownish red on the edges 
of the leaves and on the head. It is something like a brown 
winter Lettuce, but more deeply coloured, and the head is taller. 
It is very suitable for growing in the latter end of spring, and in 
summer and autumn, and is often to be met with in the Central 
Market at Paris. 

Red Cabbage Lettuce {Laitue Rouge Chartreuse). — This fine 
variety has the same shape and, to a certain extent, the same 
appearance as the Palatine Lettuce, but it is not spotted, and 
the colour of the leaves is a much more decided red. It is a 
good summer variety, and will also bear the winter, if not too 
severe. Seed black. 

Spotted Cabbage l^^ttMC^ {White-seeded). — A rather compact 
variety, with rounded, twisted leaves, forming a close and very 




become developed into sprouts or 
shoots, which are rarely of any 
great size. In Italy this Lettuce 



is said to grow well all the year 
round, but, from our experience 
of it, it is chiefly valuable as an 
^^S:- autumn and winter Lettuce in the 
neighbourhood of Paris. 



Mortatella Cabbage Lettuce. 



Laitue de Neris. — A fine 
summer Lettuce, very much re- 
sembling the Mogul Lettuce, 



25 



386 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



tender head. The inner leaves are almost white, and streaked 
with bright red ; the outer ones are of a dark green with brown 
blotches. 

Spotted Cabbage Lettuce {Black-seeded). — This variety differs 
from the preceding one in the fineness of the red streaks with 
which the leaves are marked, which gives the whole plant a bronzy 
tinge. The inner leaves appear as if dusted with red on a white 
ground. Both this and the preceding kind have been superseded 
by the new Improved White-seeded variety. 

Tannhauser. — A compact variety, with thick, rounded leaves 
and round head, rather like the Large Normandy Lettuce, but 
differing from it entirely in the colour of its seed, which is 
black. 

White Stone Cabbage Lettuce. — A compact plant, with 
crimped, wavy leaves of a light green, almost yellow, colour, 
tinged with light brown on the top of the head, which is of 
medium size, close, and somewhat flattened. It is a good summer 
variety, hardy, and slow in running to seed. The only fault it has 
is its slightly bitter flavour. Seed white. 

De Zelande. — A handsome and compact variety of Cabbage 
Lettuce, of a very pale yellow colour, remarkably like the Berlin 
White Summer Lettuce, except that the head is almost ovoid in 
shape, being longer than broad. Seed black. 

In America they cultivate a very large number of varieties of 
Cabbage Lettuce, which, though not exactly similar, have many 
points in common with our own : — 

The Yellow-seeded Butter and Market Gardener's Private 
Stock Lettuces are evidently closely related to the All the Year 
Round, or White BerHn Summer Lettuce. 

Premium Cabbage Lettuce, Large Yellow Surehead 
Lettuce, Philadelphia Butter Lettuce, Silver-ball Lettuce, 
Black-seeded Butter Lettuce have many points of similarity 
with the Large White Stone Summer Lettuce. 

Fox Sterling Lettuce, Hubbard's Market Lettuce, Golden 
Queen Lettuce : closely allied to the All the Year Round Lettuce. 

Russian Lettuce, St. Louis Butter Lettuce, Deacon or 
San Francisco Market Lettuce: closely related to Imperial or 
Asiatic Lettuce. 

Myer's Ail-Right Lettuce resembles the Red-edged Trocadero 
Lettuce. 

Large Loaf Lettuce, Maximum Lettuce, and California 
Cream Butter Lettuce resemble the Large Green Lettuce. 

Large Brown and Hardhead Lettuce are in most respects 
the same as Brown Stonehead Lettuce. 

Chartier Lettuce, India-head Lettuce, Marble-head Mam- 
moth Lettuce resemble the White Silesian Lettuce. 



CABBAGE LETTUCE 



387 



Eureka Lettuce, Sugarloaf Lettuce, Tomhannock Lettuce, 

all red-coloured Lettuces, with a strong resemblance to the Brown 
Batavian Lettuce. 

Drumhead Lettuce, Detroit Market Gardeners Lettuce, 
Nonpareil Lettuce, Wonderful Lettuce have many points of 
similarity with the Neapolitan Cabbage Lettuce. 

Hamilton Market Lettuce and Golden Curled Lettuce 
closely resemble the Blond Stonehead Lettuce. 

Gardener's Favourite Lettuce, Moonshine Lettuce, the 
Morse Lettuce, Perpetual Lettuce, Hanson Lettuce, Tilton's 
White Star Lettuce, New Large-head Lettuce, Large India 
Lettuce, Early Curled Silesia Lettuce are very nearly related to 
the Simpson Early Lettuce. 

Hardy Green Winter Lettuce, Black-Seeded Tennis-ball 
Lettuce, and Salamander Lettuce resemble nearly Versailles 
Blond Lettuce. 

Boston Market Lettuce appears to be extremely similar to De 
Zelande Lettuce, or at least intermediate between that and the 
All the Year Round Lettuce. 



COS LETTUCES 

French, Laitues romaines. German, Romischer oder Binde Salat. Flemish, Ezelsoor 
salat. Dutch, Roomsche latouw. Italian^ Lattuga romana. Spanish, Lechuga - 
romana. Portuguese, Alface romana. 

The Cos Lettuces are distinguished from the common Cabbage 
Lettuces by the shape of their leaves, which are elongated and 
almost always somewhat spoon-shaped, and also by the usually 
large size of the midrib, which in some varieties forms a regular 
white, tender, and very thick chard. 

They are grown in exactly the same way as the Cabbage 
Lettuces, only that, as they do not naturally form a head so well 
as these, gardeners are in the habit of tying up the leaves together 
in order to blanch the inner ones. There are winter, spring, and 
summer varieties of Cos Lettuces. For forcing, and for early 
sowing in the open air, the preference is given to the White Paris 
Cos, next to which come the Green Paris Cos and the Gray Paris 
Cos, all of which are closely allied kinds. For summer culture the 
same varieties may be employed, and also the Florence Cos, or 
Magnum Bonum {Romaine Alphange), the Giant Cos {^Romaine 
Monsireuse), and the Brown, or Bath, Cos {^Ro7naine Bru7ie 
Anglaise). Lastly, for winter culture in the open air, the Green 
Winter Cos, the Royal Green, and the Blood-red Winter Cos are 
the kinds most commonly selected. 



388 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



I. Winter Varieties of Cos Lettuce 




Green Winter Cos Lettuce. 



Wi7iter 

Leaves 
twisted 



Green Winter Cos Lettuce {Black-seeded). — Leaves of young 
plant smooth, dark green, rather flat and rounded, but narrowed 
towards the end ; margin entire, with the exception of a few teeth 

on the lower third part. Full-grown 
plant compact, with the leaves closely 
pressed against one another, erect, and 
slightly turned back at the ends ; blade 
of the leaf shortly spathulate or oval, 
smooth, and of a very light green colour, 
with a glazed appearance; veins numerous 
and very distinctly marked. The head 
forms of itself without being tied up ; 
it is not tall, but is firm, compact, and 
very solid. This is a very old and very 
excellent variety; it is very little affected 
by frosty weather, and yields a heavy 
crop for the moderate size of the 
plants. 

The English Hardy White 
Cos is only a paler-coloured sub-variety of this kind. 

Royal Green Winter Cos Lettuce {Black-seeded).- 
of young plant shortly spathulate, slightly crimped and 
towards the base, rather deeply toothed on the lower two-thirds 
of the margin, and a uniform dark green. Full-grown plant 
vigorous, with light green shining leaves, oblong, slightly crimped, 
somewhat turned back at the 
edges, until the head begins to 
form, when they turn the other 
way, becoming spoon-shaped as 
they overlap one another; head 
rather tall, solid, and blanching 
without being tied up. This 
variety is chiefly distinguished 
from the preceding one by the 
rosette which it forms before 
heading being less spreading, 
stiffer, and of a paler and more 
glistening green colour. 

Red Winter Cos Lettuce „ , ^ ^ , 

/E)7 z. J j\ ^7 1 ^ Royal Green Winter Cos Lettuce. 

{Black-seeded). — Young plant 

deeply tinged with brown red ; leaves spathulate, flat, smooth, and 
slightly toothed at the base. Head of full-grown plant tall, long, 
entirely green with the exception of a brown-red tinge on the top ; 
outer leaves long, rounded at the ends, very entire, nearly flat, and 




COS LETTUCES 



1 




Red Winter Cos Lettuce. 



very deeply coloured with red-brown. It is only in the centre of 
the plant, near the head, that any green colour is visible. This 
variety generally, heads very well without being tied up. It is 
hardy, productive, and remarkably slow in running to seed. It 
is also so constant in character that 
it is hardly ever found to vary or 
degenerate. 

II. Spring and Summer 
Varieties of Cos Lettuce 

Green Paris Cos, or Buckland 
Cos, Lettuce ( White - seeded). — 
Young plant dark green ; leaves 
erect, with white midribs, elongated, 
spathulate, and very much toothed 
towards the base. Head of full- 
grown plant long, pointed, or slightly 
blunt, showing three well-marked 
faces ; outer leaves erect around the 
head, narrow, rather dark glossy green, and with very white midribs. 
A fast-growing kind, not so large as the White Paris Cos, but 
somewhat earlier. 

Green Limagne Cos Lettuce ( White-seeded). — The young 
plant has dark green erect leaves, folded at the edge, angular, and 
toothed at the base. The head is round and very firm ; the leaves 

strong, crimped, a lighter 



colour than those of the 
Green Paris. A vigorous 
and quick grower. 

Gray Paris Cos Lettuce 
( White-seeded). — The young 
plant of this variety differs 
only from that of the White 
Paris Cos in that it is de- 
cidedly darker in colour. 
Head of full-grown plant 
well rounded at the top, and 
more thick-set than that of 
either the preceding or the 
following kind ; outer leaves 
large, rounded at the end, 
and not so light-coloured 
as those of the White Paris Cos ; those forming the head are 
very much hollowed out like a spoon. This variety is chiefly 
grown under cloches or bell-glasses, and for that mode of culture 




Green Paris Cos Lettuce. 



I 



390 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



it is generally preferred by the Paris market-gardeners to all 
other kinds. 

White Paris Cos Lettuce ( White-seeded). — Young plant pale 
green ; leaves rather erect, spathulate, toothed and slightly crimped 

towards the base, and broad and 
rounded at the ends. Head of 
full-grown plant long and tall, 
but very thick, blunt or rounded 
at the top, and with the faces 
or angles less marked than those 
of the Green Paris Cos ; outer 
leaves spathulate, large, luxuriant, 
light green, and rather crimped ; 
those forming the head are always 
folded, of a very pale green 
colour, and with the midrib white 
and very prominent. The most 
grown of all the Cos Lettuces, 
and perhaps of all other kinds, it appears to be very well adapted 
for all temperate climates, and even for warm ones, as it is grown 
all over the world. It likes rich soil and plentiful waterings, and is 
grown under bell-glasses or cloches for an early crop, and in the 
open air from April to the end of autumn. When carefully 




White Paris Cos Lettuce Earl}' White Self-folding Trianon 

natural size). Cos Lettuce, 



attended to, it heads in seven or eight weeks after being planted 
out in the open air, and keeps the head firm for a remarkably 
long time. A well-grown plant will often weigh over 6\ lb. 

Early White Self-folding Trianon Cos Lettuce {White- 
seeded). — A very pretty strain of the Paris White Cos Lettuce, from 




Gray Paris Cos Lettuce. 



COS LETTUCES 



391 



which it differs only* when nearly full grown in its whiter colour, 
leaves more crimped, broader ribs, and in being several days earlier. 

Large White Du Chesnay Cos Lettuce ( White-seeded). — The 
young plant is pale, slightly yellow-green ; the leaves small, narrow, 
stiff, erect, toothed at the edges, and twisted at the base. A Paris 
White Cos of larger size and about a fortnight later. Grows well 
under glass bells. Grown in the open air it is not liable to rust. 

Ground Cos Lettuce {Black-seeded). — Young plant short and 
compact, of a uniform, rather dark, clear green 
colour ; leaves stiff, short, oval, slightly spoon- 
shaped, erect, and with a very prominent white 
midrib. Full-grown plant very thick-set, and 
of a dark, shining green colour ; head, short, 
very close and hard, commencing so low down 
that it appears to be partially buried in the 
ground ; outer leaves very stiff, somewhat 
pointed, almost always folded in two and 
curved back outwardly, slightly crimped, with 
the midrib stout, stiff, and very large for the 
size of the leaves. The leaves of this variety 
are very crisp, and leave a slightly bitter after-taste which is not 
disagreeable. The plant bears frosty weather well, if slightly 
protected. As the head is very solid, the crop is pretty heavy 
for the small size of the plants. 




Ground Cos Lettuce 
natural size). 



III. Summer Varieties of Cos Lettuce 

White-seeded Florence, or Magnum Bonum, Cos Lettuce. — 

Young plant, of a dull, pale green ; leaves broad, oval, slightly 

toothed, and faintly tinged with 
light brown at the base, and also 
on the margins and veins. The 
full-grown plant does not head 
well unless it is tied up. Outer 
leaves very large, and especially 
very broad, rounded in outline, 
broadly crimped, with the edges 
turned backwards, and forming 
a large and very open rosette ; 
they are of a gray-green colour, 
very slightly tinged with light 
brown at the edges and on 
the parts exposed to the sun. 

The average diameter of well- 
Florence, or Magnum Bonum, Cos Lettuce Pl^^ts is 16 in., or 
(i natural size). thereabout. 




392 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Black-seeded Florence, or Magnum Bonum, Cos Lettuce. — 

Leaves of young plant spathulate, large, longish, bluntly toothed, 

and tinged with pale 
/r''l^/y'J)i brown at the base and 

_ on the veins and edges. 

The plant is throughout 
much paler in colour 
than the young plant 
of the preceding variety. 
Head of full-grown 
plant elongated, seldom 
forming unless tied up; 
outer leaves very long 
and broad, pale green 
or yellow, slightly tinged 
with russet on the parts 
exposed to the sun, 
finely crimped, more 
pointed, and apparently 
thinner in texture, than 
those of the preceding 
kind. They also form a broader rosette, this being often 20 in. 
in diameter. 

White Long-standing Cos Lettuce {Black-seeded). — Young 
plant pale green, leaves spathulate, with long stalks, curved 
outwards and moderately 
toothed. Resembles the 
Florence Cos Lettuce, but 
its leaves are more numerous 
and stouter, and its head is 
firmer. Much grown in the 
south-west of France, and 
it keeps its heads well during 
the hot summer, when some 
popular varieties head badly 
and run rapidly to seed. 

Balloon Cos Lettuce 
{Black - seeded). — Young 
plant a pale, clear green 
colour ; leaves erect, rather 



White Long-standing Cos Lettuce. 



toothed on the en- 
margin, the teeth 




narrow, 

tire margm, tne teetn on 
the lower half being long 
and sharp, while those to- 
wards the end of the leaf are faintly marked ; the veins of the 
leaf, also, are not very clearly defined there. Full-grown plant 



Balloon Cos Lettuce natural size). 



1 



COS LETTUCES 



393 



very vigorous, with a large, broad, rounded head, sh'ghtly flattened 
at the top, full and firm ; outer leaves not so much crimped as 
those of the White Paris Cos, but greener in hue and more 
rounded at the ends. The White Paris Cos heads sooner than 
the Balloon Cos, but the latter is considered hardier, and is very 
suitable for sowing in autumn. It is also a remarkably productive 
variety. 

Monstrous Brown Cos Lettuce {Black-seeded). — Young 
plant vigorous growing, half-spreading ; leaves fairly large, broad 
from the base, pale dull green, tinged with light brown on the veins 
and edges ; margin slightly sinuated or bluntly toothed. Head 
of full-grown plant oblong, not forming well unless tied up ; outer 
leaves large, numerous, in a broad and very open rosette, almost 
spreading oil the ground ; they are entire in outline, but the edges 
are twisted and waved, and the surface is crimped and puffed from 
the midrib towards the edges. All the parts exposed to the sun 
are very deeply tinged with russet, while the rest of the plant 
is of a wan dark green. The general appearance of the plant is 
shining, as if varnished, not dull like the Florence varieties. It is 
often 20 in. in diameter. 

Brown, or Bath, Cos Lettuce ( White-seeded). — Young plant of 
a dull green colour ; leaves spathulate, deeply toothed to the very 
end, and tinged with red 
on the edges and veins. 
Head of full-grown plant 
oblong, almost pointed, 
pale green, slightly tinged 
with dull brown ; outer 
leaves rather spreading, 
entire, not much crimped, 
finely toothed on the edges, 
and tinged on all the parts 
exposed to the sun with 
pale brown on a gray-green 
ground. A well - grown 
plant is about 14 in. in 

diameter. This is an ex- White-seeded Bath Cos Lettuce. 

ceedingly hardy kind, and 

does well under summer or autumn culture ; it sometimes also 
withstands the winter. Although it heads well enough when 
left to itself, it is usually tied up to increase the number and 
expedite the production of tender blanched leaves. The contrast 
of colour in the parts of the leaves which are bronzed by being 
exposed to the sun and those parts which are covered is very 
striking in this variety. This, and the following variety, are 
especially suitable for winter Lettuces in England. 




394 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Black-seeded Bath Cos Lettuce. — Young plant somewhat 



paler than that of the Common 
similar in other respects. The 




Black-seeded Bath Cos Lettuce 
natural size). 



or White-seeded Bath Cos, but 
full-grown plant does not differ 
very materially from the pre- 
ceding kind, except in the colour 
of the seed ; however, there is a 
very apparent disparity between 
the two varieties in the habit of 
the plants, and the manner in 
which the leaves overlap one 
another, those of the black- 
seeded kind being shorter, 
forming a rosette, which spreads 
more broadly on the ground, and 
being slower in standing erect to 
form the head ; they are also 
more toothed at the edges. The 
two varieties are alike in produc- 
tiveness, earliness, and quality. 
Spotted, or Aleppo, Cos Lettuce [W kites eededy — Leaves of 
young plant half-erect, stiff, oblong, toothed at the edges of the 
lower half, of a light green colour, which is almost entirely hidden 
by a multitude of brown-red spots, which are usually very small 
and often confluent. The full-grown plant does not head unless 
tied up. Outer leaves entirely spreading, almost always folded 
along the midrib, very much plaited, undulated, and twisted, and 
very much tinged with deep brown-red. When artificially blanched, 
the leaves of this variety ex- 
hibit the same red variegation 
on a white ground as those 
of the Dark-red Cabbage 
Lettuce. The plant is about 
i6 in. in diameter. 

Improved Spotted Cos 
Lettuce {Black-seeded). — 
Young plant deeply tinged 
with brown-red on a green 
ground ; leaves rather short, 
entire, rounded, spathulate. 
It is much dwarfer and more 
compact than the young plant 
of the preceding variety, and 
also not so red. The full- 
grown plant has erect leaves, closely pressed against one another, 
and surrounding an oblong, short, and rather compact head. 
Outer leaves stiff, rounded or blunt at the ends, not much crimped, 




Spotted, or Aleppo, Cos Lettuce 
natural size). 



COS LETTUCES 



395 



a deep green colour, with brown spots and blotches. This Lettuce 
heads of itself, but the produce is better when it is tied up, 
and it then yields a large quantity of salad for the small size 
of the plant, which does not exceed lO or 12 in. in diameter. This 
variety differs entirely from the preceding one in having all its 
leaves erect before they form the head, giving the plant somewhat 
the shape of a funnel, while in the other kind the leaves are 
spreading, and even turned backwards. 

Sprouting Cos Lettuce {White-seeded). — Introduced from the 
Pamirs of Central Asia, 



Lettuce. — A rather leafy 

plant, not heading unless Sprouting Cos Lettuce. 

tied up ; leaves somewhat folded, entire at the edges and turned 
back at the ends. This variety grows to a considerable size, but 
runs to seed rather rapidly. There are both a white-seeded and 
a black-seeded form of it, the latter of which appears to be the 
same as the English variety named Ivery's Nonesuch. 

Romaine Blonde de Niort— This fine large variety is grown in 
Vendee, where it is highly esteemed. It very much resembles the 
Black-seeded Florence Cos, but runs to seed rather sooner. The 
seed is white. 

Romaine de Chalabre.— A very good kind of winter Cos for the 
south of France, and even at Paris it bears ordinary winters well. 
In appearance it rather resembles the Green Paris Cos, but it grows 
much larger, and has the leaves tolerably toothed in the lower half 

Romaine Epinerolle.— A variety almost intermediate between 
the Green and the White Paris Cos Lettuces, and apparently hardier 



We shall now proceed 
to mention a few other 
varieties, which, although 
inferior in importance to 
those already described, 
nevertheless possess a 
certain amount of merit. 



it is very hardy, and 
proof against drought. 
The leaves are long, and 
a dull light green. It 
does not form a head, 
but produces numerous 
leafy tender shoots, which 
issue vertically from the 
axils of the lower leaves. 
As a salad it is excellent 
in default of better. 



Brunoy White Cos 




396 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



than either, but at the same time not so tender or delicate in 
flavour. It is especially suitable for the south of France, where it 
can be grown in winter. 

Romaine Frisee Bayonnaise ; R. Parisienne ; R. du Mexique, 
— Under these three names two or three kinds of Cos Lettuces are 
grown which are rather like the Brown Batavian Lettuce. Like it, 
they are of vigorous and rapid growth, but somewhat leathery in 
texture. They are suitable for warm climates, and should be tied 
up in order to blanch the leaves and make them tender. 

Romaine Chicon Jaune Superieure. — This may be considered 
as merely a sub-variety of the White-seeded Florence Cos, from 
which it is distinguished by having a shorter and entirely light- 
coloured head. 

Magdalena Cos Lettuce. — Closely allied to the Giant Cos, but 
taller and hghter in colour. The leaves are large, pale, and tinged 
/ with red, especially at the edges. The plant almost heads of itself 
without being tied up. The head is not very solid. Seed black. 

Dwarf ^A/'hite-heart Cos Lettuce. — Of American origin ; 
resembles the White Paris Cos Lettuce. 

SMALL or CUTTING LETTUCES 

French. Laitues a couper. German^ Schnitt-Salat. Dutch, Snij salade. Italian, 
Lattuga da taglio. Spanish, Lechuguino. 

A certain number of varieties of Lettuce never form a head, but 
compensate, as it were, for this by producing a great abundance 
of leaves, which grow again after being cut, thus furnishing a large 
supply of green vegetables in a limited space. These are known 
by the general name of Cutting Lettuces, and a certain number of 
^ kinds are in cultivation. Sometimes some of the Early White 
Cabbage Lettuces are treated as Cutting Lettuces, especially the 
Crisped Lettuce and the Georges Lettuce, but the varieties which 
we are about to describe never form a head, and consequently can 
never be grown except as Cutting Lettuces. 

White Cutting Lettuce ( White-seeded). — A variety with spathu- 
late leaves, which become shorter and rounder as the plant advances 
in growth, with almost entire edges, slightly waved and toothed 
towards the base. If the leaves are not cut when the plant is young, 
the central ones become folded and rumpled so as to form a kind 
"of heart, but not a true head. The plant soon runs to seed. This 
variety is chiefly grown in frames. 

Black-seeded Cutting Lettuce. — A very distinct variety, 
forming a tuft lo to 12 in. broad, dense and matted, and somewhat 
resembling a Curled Endive. Leaves cut into rounded lobes, 
twisted and puckered, of a rather dark green on the upper surface 
and somewhat gray underneath. This is a hardy and very productive 



SMALL OR CUTTING LETTUCES 



397 



kind, and is well adapted for growing in the open air. The leaves 
are entirely green at the ends and edges where they are exposed 
to the sun and air, but elsewhere they are white, like Endive leaves. 

Beauregard Lettuce. — A distinct variety, with leaves deeply 
cut and toothed at the edges, and a fairly well-formed head. It is 



5^ 





Black-seeded Cutting Lettuce Laciniated Beauregard Cabbage 

natural size). Lettuce. 

sometimes called California Lettuce, but this name should be dis- 
carded in order to avoid a confusion with the California Curled 
Lettuce described below. 

California Curled Lettuce {White-seeded). — Young plant of 
light green, with rounded leaves, finely cut edges ; the central leaves 
are folded into a barely perceptible head. It is an intermediate 
variety between the Cabbage Lettuce and the Cutting Lettuces. 
It grows into a broad rosette like an Endive. The leaves are light 
green, entire for the largest portion of their surface, and much 
puckered and folded at the edges. It is slow in running to seed. 
The Grand Rapids Lettuce comes very near it, but is less curly. 




California Curled Lettuce. American Curled Lettuce. 



American Curled, or Gathering, Lettuce. — A kind of Batavian 
Lettuce, with the leaves twisted, puckered, folded at the margin, 
and strongly tinged with coppery red at the edges. It is distinct 
and pleasing in appearance, but does not head well. It is used as 



398 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



a green salad, like the Early Simpson Lettuce, and sometimes the 
first leaves are plucked off very early, with the view of making 
a later gathering of the new leaves which are to follow, or of 
the sprouts or shoots which grow from the axils. From this it 
derives its name of " Gathering Lettuce." 

New Egyptian Sprouting Lettuce ( White-seeded). — Resembles 
the American Curled Lettuce, but is lighter in colour, and the 
leaves are longer and less crimped. It is remarkable for the 
abundance of its shoots. These shoots are composed of only a 
few long narrow leaves, and are very like the Cutting Lettuces 
raised on hot-beds. Their use is the same. 

Oak-leaved Cutting Lettuce. — The plant forms a tallish rosette, 
tufty and rather full in the centre, 12 to 14 in. broad, composed 
of very numerous leaves, which are rather long, light green in 
colour, divided into rounded lobes, sinuated, and broader and far 
less undulated than those of the Black-seeded Cutting Lettuce. 
This variety is hardy and bears the winter well. It grows very 
well again after being cut. Seed black. 

A variety named Artichoke-leaved Cos Lettuce is sometimes 
grown. This is very like the Oak-leaved variety, differing from 
it chiefly in the brown tint of its leaves. 

Endive-leaved Cutting Lettuce.— Leaves spreading in a rosette, 
light-coloured, curled and crisped like those of the Small Green 
Curled Winter Endive. This variety is tender to eat, very hardy, 
and very good for cutting. It bears the winter well. The seed is 
black, and is the smallest of all kinds of Lettuce seed. 

There is another variety which has a fuller heart, but the leaves 
are not so much curled, and are of a light grayish or silver hue. It 
is named the English Endive-leaved Cutting Lettuce. 

There is an American variety of Cutting Lettuce which is very 
distinct from any of the preceding kinds, named the Boston Curled 
Lettuce. The leaves of this variety are of a light green colour, 
spreading into a rosette, and are cut, curled, and puckered at the 
edges Hke the leaves of a Curled Endive. It is a summer Lettuce 
and has black seed. 

ASPARAGUS LETTUCE 

Lactuca angustana, Hort, 

Leaves long, very narrow, lanceolate, never forming a head. The 
plant soon runs to seed, and it is the thick swollen stems that are 
used as a table vegetable, gathered when they are about a foot 
high. This plant is very distinct, and resembles no other Cos 
Lettuce. The Lactuca cracoviensis, HorL, is a form of the Asparagus 
Lettuce with reddish stems and bronzy leaves. It is grown and 
used in the same way as the common form. Notwithstanding their 



I 



ASPARAGUS LETTUCE 



399 



very peculiar appearance and the Latin names which they have 
received from horticulturists, these two plants are nothing but 
modified forms of the cultivated Lettuce {Lactuca sativa^ L.). The 
indications obtained from the flowers and seeds leave no doubt 
whatever on this point. 

PERENNIAL LETTUCE 

Lactuca perennis, L. Compositce. 

Native of Southern Europe. — This plant, which is common in 
the wild state on light or calcareous 
soils all over the central districts 
of France, has been highly spoken 
of as a vegetable for table use. 
The part eaten is the leaves, which 
are very much cut and form their 
rosettes in the early part of the 
spring. The plants are gathered 
where they grow (as Dandelion- 
plants are gathered in the meadows 
in various parts of France), but not 
in sufficient quantity to be sent to 
market. They do not make a bad 
salad, but the produce of the plant 
is so trifling that it is hardly worth 
cultivating. The seed is black, elongated, and small. Its 
germinating power lasts for three years. 

LOVAGE, or LOVACHE 

Levisticum officinale ^ Koch ; Ligusticum Levisticum^ L. UmbellifercB. 

French, Ache de montagne. German, Liebstock. Spanish, Apio de monte. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — A very tall plant with 
large, shining, dark green radical leaves^ which are twice or thrice 
divided into pinnate segments, entire and wedge-shaped at the base 
and incised lobed in the upper part. Stem thick, hollow, erect, 
dividing at the top into opposite whorled branches ; flowers yellow, 
in umbels ; seeds strongly aromatic, hollow and boat-shaped on one 
side, and convex on the other, with three prominent ribs. Their 
germinating power lasts for three years. 

Culture. — The plant is propagated either from seed or by 
division of the roots. The seed is sown as soon as it is ripe — that 
is, about August. The young plants are planted out permanently, 
either in autumn or early in spring, in good deep, moist, well- 
manured soil. The division of the roots should be made in spring. 




Perennial Lettuce natural size ; 
detached leaf, \ natural size). 



400 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



A plantation will last several years without requiring to be renewed. 
When growing, the plants are treated exactly like Angelica-plants. 

Uses. — At the present day Lovage is almost exclusively used 
in the manufacture of confectionery ; formerly the leaf-stalks and 
bottom of the stems were eaten, blanched like Celery. 

MAIZE, or INDIAN CORN 

Zea Mays, L. Graminece. 

French, Mais sucre. German, Mais. Flemish and Dutch, Turksche tarwe. Italian, 
Grano turco. Spanish, Ma'iz. Portuguese, Milho. 

Native of America.— Annual. — The Maize plant, or Indian Corn, 
was introduced in the sixteenth century from America into Europe, 

where its cultivation 
soon became very 
general, and where it 
now occupies an im- 
portant place among the 
cereal crops which 
furnish food for man. 
In many places the heads 
or " cobs " are gathered 
while the seeds are 
young and tender, and 
are parched and eaten 
as a delicacy, but it is 
almost exclusively in 
the United States of 
America that the Maize 
is regarded as a regular 
table vegetable and 
grown specially for that 

Maize, or Indian"co^(Tnatural size). purpOSe. AlmOSt all the 

varieties may be eaten 
as they are in America — that is, boiled before the seeds have 
become hard and floury, and while the pulp of the interior is 
still in the condition of a soft paste ; but there are some kinds 
which are superior to the rest for this purpose, their seeds being 
sweeter and more tender, and which are known by the general 
name of Wrinkled Sweet Maize. These are distinguished by the 
very peculiar appearance of the seed, the skin of which is wrinkled, 
shrunken, and almost transparent when ripe, instead of being hard, 
swollen, and smooth, like that of other kinds. Its germinating 
power lasts for two years. 

In the United States, where this plant is highly esteemed as a 
table vegetable, there are at least a dozen distinct varieties grown, 




MAIZE, OR INDIAN CORN 



401 



differing from one another chiefly in size and earliness. Most of 
these have white seed. The best varieties are : — 

Extra Early Dwarf. — This is one of the best for cultivation in 
Central Europe. 

Early Minnesota. — A very early kind, growing from 3 to 4 ft. 
high. 

The Early Crosby and the Large Early Eight-rowed. — These 
are somewhat larger kinds than the preceding one, with a longer 
head, but about ten days later. 

Concord. — A stronger growing kind, of excellent quality. 

Stowell's Evergreen Late. — A later kind, but a good bearer, 
and keeping the heads tender and delicate for a longer time. 

Besides these may be mentioned the Early Narraganset Dwarf, 
the ripe seeds of which are red, and the Sweet Mexican, which has 
black seeds. 

Culture. — The Maize is sown in the open air about the same 
time as Kidney Beans — that is, as soon as the ground has become 
somewhat warmed, and there is no longer any danger of frost. All 
the attention it requires is the occasional use of the hoe when 
the plants are commencing to grow, and occasional waterings when 
they have become pretty strong. The earliest kinds sometimes 
yield a few well-grown heads about the end of July, and heads may 
be had somewhat earlier, if a sowing is made in a hot-bed and the 
young plants put out in the open ground about May 25th. 
By making successional sowings, and employing varieties of 
different degrees of earliness, fresh heads may be had up to the 
arrival of the first frosts. 

Uses. — The head or " cob " is boiled and served up, either 
entire, or the seeds are taken off and served up like Kidney Beans. 
The heads are also gathered when very young and small and 
before the flower opens, and are pickled in vinegar like Gherkins. 

CURLED, or CURLED-LEAVED, 
MALLOW 

Malva crzspa, L. Malvacece. 

French, Mauve frisee. German, Krausblattrige 
Malve. Italian, Malva crespa. 

Native of the East. — Annual. — A 
large plant, with an erect, simple, or 
slightly branched stem, 4 to over 6 ft. 
high, and leafy to the top. Leaves 
large, round, light green in colour, very 
elegantly curled and puckered at the 
edges ; flowers white, small, in long 
leafy terminal clusters ; seeds brown, 

26 




Curled Mallow. 



402 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



kidney-shaped, with a rough and irregular surface. Their germi- 
nating power lasts for five years. The seed is sown in April, 
either where the plants are to stand or in a seed-bed, from which 
the young plants are transplanted when they are from 2 to 4 in. 
high. They require no particular attention. When this plant is 
once grown in a garden it generally continues to reproduce itself 
from self-sown seed. No part of the plant is eaten, but the leaves 
are sometimes used for garnishing desserts, etc., and a few plants 
may be worth having in the kitchen-garden. 

JEWS' MALLOW 

Cor chorus olitorius^ L. Tiliacece. 

French, Corette potagere. German, Gemlise-Corchorus, Nusskraut. 

Native of Africa. — Annual.— Stem cylindrical, smooth, more or 
less branched at the base, and about 20 in. high ; leaves alternate,, 
broader near the base, narrowing for a considerable length to a 
point, and sharply toothed ; flowers yellow, axillary ; seed-vessels 
cylindrical, rather long, and smooth ; seeds very angular, pointed^ 
greenish, and very small. Their germinating power lasts for five 
years. As this plant is a native of a very warm country, it does not 
succeed very well in the climate of Paris. The seed is sown in the 
open ground, in a warm position, in May, or may be sown earlier in 
a hot-bed. The plant, however, is more valued in tropical countries, 
where it can be grown in the open air without any trouble. The 
leaves are used for salad while they are young and tender. 

MARIGOLD (POT) 

Calendula officinalis^ L. Composites, 

French, Souci des jardins. German, Ringelblume. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — Leaves lanceolate,. 

oblong, entire, rough, and of a rather 
gray-green ; stems short, branching 
from the base, and bearing broad 
orange-coloured flower-heads ; seeds 
gray, much wrinkled, covered with 
small round protuberances, almost 
spiny, and curved into the shape of 
a bow or ring. Their germinating 
power lasts for three years. The seed 
is sown where the plants are to stand, 
in March or April, in drills 14 ta 
16 in. apart, and the seedlings are 
thinned out to a distance of 10 to 
12 in. from one another in the drills. 
Marigold (Pot) natural size). The plants commence to flower in 





MARIGOLD (POT) 403 



July, and continue to bloom all through the summer and far into 
autumn. The flowers are used in some culinary preparations, 
for which purpose they are gathered during the summer, dried 
in the shade, and kept until wanted. They are also used for 
colouring butter. 



POT, or PERENNIAL, MARJORAM 

Origanum vulgare, L. Labiatce 

French, Marjolaine vivace, German, Perennirender Englischer Majoraii. Flemish^ 
Orego. Danish, Merian. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — This is a very common wild 
plant in France, especially on the borders of woods. It forms a 
branching tuft or clump, 
20 in. to 2 ft. high, bearing 
terminal clusters of pink 
or lilac flowers. Seeds 
very small, oval, and of 
reddish or dark -brown 
colour. Their germinating 
power lasts for five years. 

Culture. — This is a 
very hardy plant, and will 
grow in almost any kind 
of soil, so that it is as 
easily cultivated as Thyme. 
The seed is sown in spring 
or in autumn, in drills, or 
to form edgings, which 
will last for many years 
without requiring any 
attention. 

Uses. — The leaves are 
used for seasoning. 

There is a variety 
which has short erect stems, bearing large clusters of almost 
white flowers, and forming a very compact tuft not more than 
from 12 to 14 in. high. This kind, which is named Dwarf Pot 
Marjoram, is especially adapted for forming edgings, and always 
comes true from seed. 

Some unscrupulous seedsmen of the South of France sell 
under the name of Perennial Marjoram the seed of Calamintha 
nepeta, commonly known as Mountain Mint, which grows 
abundantly in Provence on hills and along the roads. The 
difference, however, is easy to recognise. 




Pot, or Perennial, Marjoram (^V natural size ; 
detached branch, natural size). 



404 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



SWEET, or ANNUAL, MARJORAM 

Origanum Majorana, L. ; Majorana horteitsis, Moench. LabiatcB. 

French, Marjolaine a coquille. German. Majoran. Flemish and Dutch., Marjolijn. 
Italian, Maggiorana. Spanish, Mejorana. Portuguese, Manjerona. 

Native of the East.— Perennial, but grown in gardens as an 
annual, — A plant with an erect, square, branching stem. Leaves 

opposite, roundish, of a 
grayish green colour; flowers 
small, whitish, in rounded 
clusters with spoon-shaped 
bracts ; seeds small, roundish 
or slightly oblong, of a 
more or less dark brown 
colour. Their germinating 
power lasts for three years. 

Culture. — The seed 
may be sown at the end 
of March or early in April. 
The plant springs up 
rapidly, so that the leaves 
may commence to be 
gathered in the course of 
May. The flowers appear 
about the end of June or 
early in July. 

Uses. — The leaves and 
the ends of the shoots are 
used for seasoning, for which they are highly esteemed, especially 
in the south of France. 

MELON 

Cucumis Melo, L. Curcurbitacece. 

French. Melon. German, Melone. Flemish and Dutch, Meloen. Italian. Popone. 
Spanish, Melon. Fortiigiiese, Melao. 

Annual. — A native of the warm parts of Asia, and cultivated 
from a very remote period of antiquity, the Melon is not now 
certainly known to exist in the wild state, but it is supposed that 
the original or typical plant, if it is still to be found anywhere, 
must have an oblong fruit like that of the Persian Melon. 

It is a plant with herbaceous, slender, flexible, almost cylindrical 
stems, furnished with tendrils, by means of which they attach 
themselves to surrounding objects, and climb when they meet with 
a suitable support ; otherwise they creep along the ground. The 
leaves, leaf-stalks, and stems are rough, with short thick hairs, 




Sweet, or Annual, Marjoram (^V natural size ; 
detached branch, natural size). 



MELON 



405 



which have almost the texture of true spines. The shape and size 
of the leaves are very variable, and there is no unvarying relation 
between the size of the leaves and that of the fruit in any one kind 
or variety. Most usually the leaves are kidney-shaped, rounded, 
and often folded or waved on the margin ; frequently they are 
distinctly cut into three or five lobes, and sometimes the divisions 
even reach the depth of half the leaf ; the margin is smooth and 
unbroken in some varieties, and toothed and spiny in others. The 
Melon is a monoecious plant ; that is, male and female flowers, 
distinct from each other, are produced on the same plant. These 
flowers are rather small, and have a yellow corolla with five 
divisions and from 4 to about i| in. in diameter. The female 
flower is situated on the top of the ovary, which, in almost all the 
varieties, is ovoid, at the time when the flower expands, and is then 
about as big as a good-sized hazel-nut, at least. Insects, especially 
hive-bees and humble-bees, visit the flowers in great numbers, and 
are almost always effectual in ensuring their fertilisation ; but when 
the plants are forced, or when it is desired to preserve a certain 
variety free from any intermixture with others, it is better to 
fertilise the flowers artificially, by applying the pollen with a 
camel-hair pencil, or direct from the male flower stripped of its 
corolla. The fruit exhibits so much diversity of shape, size, and 
colour, that it is difficult to give any general description of it. It 
is met with under a variety of round, flat, and elongated shapes, 
ranging from the form of a Pumpkin to that of a Cucumber. The 
colour is equally diversified, from white to black, and passes 
through every shade of green and yellow, not to mention variega- 
tions of all kinds. The skin is often marked with wrinkles or 
creases, which become, as it where, corky, and stand out in bold 
relief on the surface. The fruit in this case is termed " netted," or 
" net-veined." In other instances the fruit is covered with pro- 
tuberances, more or less large and prominent, and known as 
" scabs " or " warts." Lastly, the skin of the fruit is sometimes 
perfectly smooth, and sometimes marked by a number of furrows, 
extending from the stalk to the eye of the fruit. These furrows 
have between them a certain number of ribs, usually from nine 
to twelve, which are more or less prominent, according to the 
variety. The seeds, which are smooth, usually white or yellowish, 
flat and oblong, are collected together in the centre of the fruit, 
and surrounded by a very watery pulp, full of soft filaments, 
which are the umbilical cords of the seeds. The flesh, properly 
so called, of the fruit is always watery, sweet, and usually highly 
perfumed ; its colour is green, white, or orange. The relation 
between the size of the fruit and that of the seed is not always 
constant. The germinating power of the seed lasts for five years at 
least, and often for more than ten years. 



406 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Culture. — Melons, like most other plants of the same natural 
family, require good soil, in order to grow well and produce fine 
fruit. They do not succeed well in the open air, except in very 
rich alluvial soil, or in ground that has been abundantly manured. 
All through the north of Europe they are only grown in the open 
air in exceptional cases, and, as a rule, are cultivated exclusively 
under glass. We shall, therefore, dwell more particularly upon this 
mode of culture. 

The Melon requires for its growth a moderately high tempera- 
ture. This should almost always exceed 54^ Fahrenheit ; and the 
quality of the fruit is always better if the mean temperature is kept 
raised while they are ripening. Under the most favourable con- 
ditions, the plant requires four or five months to complete its 
growth, from which it may be seen that in the climate of Paris 
there is no positive certainty of ripening the fruit without the aid 
of artificial heat, and consequently they are almost always grown 
there in hot-beds. During nine or ten months of the year the 
market-gardeners about Paris have the plants under cultivation, 
and these furnish a supply of ripe fruit for six full months. The 
frames of Melon-pits being lined with manure, the plants are, in a 
manner, forced, as they thus receive a greater amount of heat than 
they would in the open air. Custom, however, has restricted the 
meaning of " forcing," in the case of Melons, to this mode of 
culture when commenced in January with the object of obtaining 
ripe fruit in May, while an " early " crop is that which ripens in 
June and early in July, and Melons "of the season," or the general 
crop, are those which are gathered from the end of July up to 
October. The details of the mode of culture are not exactly the 
same for these three periods, nor are the same varieties of plants 
grown in succession. 

Forcing. — ]\Ielon-forcing commences, as we have just said, in 
January, and the kinds usually forced at Paris are the Prescott 
Small Early Frame and the Early Black Rock Melon. The seed 
is sown on a warm hot-bed during the month of January, and the 
fourth week after sowing the young plants are pricked out into 
another hot-bed, from twenty-eight to thirty plants under each 
light. During the whole of this early period of their growth the 
plants require continual attention in giving them air as often as 
that can be done with safety, occasionall}- watering them from a 
fine rose, and especially in guarding against the condensation of 
too much moisture on the lower part of the lights. In March they 
are planted out on another hot-bed. Before doing so, they should 
be stopped ; that is, the main stem should be cut above the second 
leaf After they have taken root, two lateral branches are quickly 
produced, and these are allowed to grow until they have made eight 
or ten leaves each, when they are cut above the sixth leaf, and at 



MELON 407 

this time fresh branches are growing, which almost always bear 
fertile or female flowers. Various modes of stopping the plant 
have been suggested, all of which may be useful under certain 
circumstances, but the method which we have just described has 
been generally adopted in the neighbourhood of Paris, as the most 
simple and usually the most sure. There are two things which 
should not be lost sight of in growing Melons. One is, that 
vigorous, healthy, well-grown leaves are indispensable for the pro- 
duction of fine and good fruit. Care should therefore be taken to 
grow and maintain as many leaves as can find room in the portion 
of the frame where the plant is, without depriving one another of a 
due share of air and light. The other important point is, that it is 
almost always necessary to expedite the branching of the plants, in 
order to cause the fruit to set as soon as possible ; for if the plant 
is allowed to follow its natural mode of growth, it may only com- 
mence to produce fertile or female flowers too late for the fruit to ripen 
properly. As soon as there are a few fruit set, the best of them, or 
that which, from its strength and position, promises the best growth, 
should be selected, and all the rest pinched off. In forcing Melons, 
only one fruit is left on each plant. The last thing to be done is 
to cut away any useless branches that may make their appearance, 
and to ensure the symmetrical growth of the fruit by raising it off 
the hot-bed on a tile or small board, turning it so that it may, 
as far as possible, rest on the part where it is united to the stalk. 
Melons forced in this way sometimes ripen in April, but cannot be 
expected to do so with certainty until May. 

Early Crop. — For this, the seed should be sown in the course 
of February, up to the end of the month, and the plants are treated 
in the same way as those which have just been described as "forced," 
the same operations being simply repeated three or four weeks later. 
This is a more certain crop than the previous one, as there is 
less danger of frosty weather and a better supply of light. The 
same varieties are now sown, and also the Cantaloup Prescott a Fond 
Blanc, a kind which is somewhat larger and more esteemed at Paris 
than the other two varieties. 

General Crop. — This crop is grown on by far the most 
extensive scale at Paris, and is one in which the market-gardeners 
excel. The seed is sown in the usual way in a hot-bed, and the 
plants are planted out during May in hot-beds, which are generally 
arranged in great numbers one before another, occupying a whole 
square, or section of a garden. The varieties generally grown are 
the Cantaloups Prescott d Fofid Blanc, Fond Gris, and Fond Blanc 
Argente \ sometimes the Rock, or Algerian, Cantaloup, and (rarely 
now) the Common Melon (^Melon Maraicher), When the plants 
are well rooted, the lights are completely removed, sooner or later, 
according to the prevailing temperature, and thenceforward, until 



408 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



the fruit ripens, the plants are grown entirely in the open air. 
The stopping, selection of the fruit, etc., are just the same as in 
the two previous seasons ; however, the plants are generally allowed 
to push a little more, and two fruit are often grown on the same 
plant, but the second one is not started until the first is nearly full 
grown. In this way the remaining strength of the plant is turned 
to account without injuring the first fruit, which requires no further 
supply of nutriment to increase its size, and has only to ripen the 
quantity of matter which it has already assimilated. 

Open-air Culture. — This method, which, as we have seen, is 
very little used in the north of France, is, in fact, only a simplifica- 
tion of what has just been described. The plants are raised in the 
same way in a hot-bed, and planted out in rows of holes containing 
a good forkful of manure, covered with mellow soil or compost. 
For the first few days they are protected with docJies or bell- 
glasses, or, in some places, with oiled paper or calico, supported 
by thin rods bent in the form of an arch. As soon as the weather 
becomes quite warm these coverings are removed, and the plants 
are grown on in the open air without any protection. 

In gathering Melons, it is not necessary to wait until the fruit is 
perfectly ripe ; for if they are gathered a few days before that time 
and kept in a dry, warm place, they will ripen there more or less 
speedily, according to the temperature. It is not always easy ta 
know the exact time when a Melon ripens, as the indications vary 
with the species, and are often not very plain. In a great many 
varieties, when the fruit is near ripening, the stalk exhibits a 
number of cracks (often deep ones), as if the fruit were about 
to separate from the plant. In almost all kinds of ^lelons, ripe- 
ness is indicated by the softening of the part of the fruit which 
surrounds the eye, and which yields to the pressure of the finger. 
A change in the colour of the fruit to a more or less decided yellow 
tinge is also a sign of ripeness. When this change makes its 
appearance, the fruit may be gathered and kept for a few days in 
the fruit-room. Lastly, the perfume, which Melons commence to 
give out almost as soon as they have attained their full size> 
becomes stronger and more perceptible as they grow ripe ; so that 
it is sometimes one and sometimes another of these indications^ 
according to the variety, that must be taken as a guide in fixing 
upon the proper time for gathering the fruit. 



Strictly speaking, Melons are 
fruits, and among the best, but in 
the Paris market-gardens they are 
commonly cultivated among the 
vegetable crops. It is also the 
custom to eat before dinner, or in 
the early part of it, the common 



Melon of the market with pepper and 
salt. With us the difference in the 
kinds and the great difficulty of 
the culture make our garden Melons- 
among our very choicest "dessert"" 
fruit. Slight though the distance be 
between North France and London, 



MELON 



409 



it is sufficient to cause a consider- 
able difference in Melon culture, and 
as this book is mainly intended for 
English use, we give here an account 
of the English culture. There are 
various methods of Melon culture 
in England, more especially since 
it has become the rule to devote 
a house or houses to their produc- 
tion, and an interesting modifica- 
tion of the common practice is 
suggested by Mr. Iggulden in the 
Garden : — 

'•Where they are grown princi- 
pally in frames, certain rules have 
of necessity to be followed, but m 
houses the case is very different. 
Much of this variance in practice 
may be due to the construction of 
the houses. As a rule, I believe that 
the majority of Melon-growers have 
a fixed routine from which they do 
not deviate any more than they can 
avoid, let the conveniences be what 
they may. Some prefer to cultivate 
Melons in large pots, not only the 
earliest, but also throughout the 
season. Others there are who plant 
in mounds of soil placed on a slate 
staging or iron gratings not far from 
the hot-water pipes, some of the 
latter, perhaps, being enclosed to 
afford bottom-heat ; while many more, 
probably the majority of cultivators, 
make a good hot-bed with fermenting 
material, and on this place a con- 
tinuous ridge of soil in which to 
start the plants. If all plans were 
alike successful, there would be no 
necessity nor room for criticism, 
but, as it happens, the reverse is 
the case, and really good fruits are 
by no means plentiful. Let, those 
who doubt the truth of this assertion 
taste all the fruits in a well-filled 
Melon class at any exhibition, and 
after that probably they will change 
their opinion.. Several reasons for 
Melon failures may be given, fore- 
most among which should be placed 



premature ripening; this may be 
brought about either by the drying 
process or by the actual collapse of 
the plant. The fruits may be well 
coloured and otherwise tempting 
enough, but unless they are cut from 
a healthy plant they are certain to 
be unfit to eat. If we treat Melons 
much as we should some species of 
Orchids, that is to say, almost stew 
them at one time and bake them at 
another, we ought to expect failure. 
Treat Melons as Cucumbers are 
generally treated, and not only will 
they yield a succession of crops, but 
the fruits will be certain to be good. 
One set of plants may be easily made 
to perfect three crops of fruit, or I 
might say a continuous crop, and the 
last fruits to ripen may be as fine, 
both as regards size and quality, as 
the first. Two, or maybe three or 
four. Cucumber-plants are by many 
good cultivators considered ample 
for an average-sized house, and a 
similar number of Melons is also 
quite enough. Instead of this, we 
oftener see them planted 2 ft. and 
even less distances apart, and con- 
fusion is not unfrequently the conse- 
quence. If the cultivator is fortunate 
enough to set the first four fertile 
flowers, or, at any rate, a fair crop on 
the laterals thrown out by the main 
stem, the result may be satisfactory 
enough, but should he miss the 
chance it is very doubtful if another 
good one will offer. In the case of 
the plants allowed to extend freely 
and naturally, these will be con- 
stantly developing healthy, fertile, 
and easily set blossoms. Melons 
grown like Cucumbers, and in a 
house with them if need be, will be 
continually gaining strength, and, 
almost mcredible as it may appear 
to some, will set fruit naturally and 
at different times. Instead, there- 
fore, of a glut we may secure a suc- 
cession from the same plant, and 



410 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



this is one strong recommendation 
in favour of the practice which I 
recommend. True, these Hberally 
treated plants are apt to produce 
rather large fruit, which for market 
purposes especially are not desirable, 
but this difficulty may be obviated, 
and need not deter any one from 
adopting the plan. 

" Bottom - heat. — Many culti- 
vators lay much stress upon the 
necessity for bottom-heat, this being 
afforded either by fermenting ma- 
terial or enclosed hot-water pipes, or 
the two combined. I shall try to 
prove that not only are these not 
absolutely necessary, but they are 
also not unfrequently a source of 
danger and a cause of failure. At 
the outset a bed of heating material 
composed, say, of stable manure and 
leaves, will give the plants an excel- 
lent start, and they will be apparently 
altogether superior to those started 
without such bottom-heat. All the 
while the heat lasts and the material 
is still in good condition the pro- 
gress is satisfactory, but when the 
mass of material is decayed and gets 
sodden with moisture the tempera- 
ture is materially lowered, and other 
evils follow. When the plants stand 
in most need of assistance, viz. when 
heavy crops are being matured, they 
get much less than at the earlier 
stages. A collapse is frequently the 
consequence, and the plants are 
either necessarily " dried off," or the 
fruits are cut and placed on hot 
shelves to colour or ripen where the 
bottom-heat is principally afforded 
by enclosed pipes ; these, with the 
assistance, perhaps, of a small bed 
of heating material, answer very well 
for a time, but later on the material 
in contact with the gratings or slates, 
as the case may be, becomes very dry 
and non-conducting — the bottom- 
heat thus being wasted. This is by 
no means an imaginary case, as I have 



several times opened the chambers 
formed over hot- water pipes in order, 
if possible, to discover why we ob- 
tained insufficient bottom-heat, and 
they have proved unbearably hot. 
Then, again, unless the valves are 
so regulated as to admit of all the 
heat being turned on to the bottom- 
heat, the chances are that during 
warm weather they are not heated 
at all. In this case the difference 
between the top and bottom-heat 
may be much too divergent for the 
well-being of the plant. A healthy 
root-action should be maintained as 
long as possible, and the bottom- 
heat should be equal to the top-heat. 
Without at present going into de- 
tails, I may state that our Melons 
are planted in raised square mounds 
of soil enclosed by loose bricks. The 
bottom-heat is not enclosed or con- 
centrated in any way on the mounds, 
but these being well exposed share 
more or less in the fluctuations of 
the top-heat. This plan entails more 
labour in the shape of very frequent 
waterings, varied with liquid manure, 
and the progress at the outset is 
rather slow, but in the end the stems 
become strong and woody, and it 
rarely happens that they fail. 

"Soil. — It may be a difficult 
matter for some to completely change 
their practice, even if they are dis- 
posed to do so, but there is nothing 
to prevent a modification, especially 
with regard to the disposition of the 
soil. Many seem to think that the 
poorest and heaviest loam procurable 
is the correct compost for Melons, 
this being placed in a rounded ridge 
on the top of the hot-bed and heavily 
beaten down in that position. In 
this case the loam has but little to 
do with an ultimate success, but may 
be partly blamed for a failure. It 
cannot be kept properly moistened, 
and the consequence is the roots 
quickly leave it and find their way 



MELON 



411 



down into the too rich manure under- 
neath. Given ^ a square ridge of 
fairly stiff turfy loam, made tolerably 
firm (this will render watering an 
easy matter), and occasional slight 
top-dressings with good soil to which 
has been added a sprinkling of 
manure, and no difficulty will be ex- 
perienced in maintaining a healthy 
surface root action. The best varie- 
ties to cultivate ought in every case 
to depend upon circumstances — 
whether green-fleshed or scarlet- 



fleshed, large, medium, or small, 
ought to be settled in accordance 
with what may be required. Some 
think the exigencies of the case are 
met by growing as many varieties as 
there are plants ; but this, although 
an interesting experiment, is far from 
being politic. At the present time 
I have seeds of upwards of twenty 
varieties in a seed-drawer, but of 
these only three varieties will be 
grown, and one of these only by 
way of experiment." 



Uses. — The fruit are eaten raw. In the south of France, some 
white-fleshed or green-fleshed kinds are preserved, or made into 
jam. The young fruit which are pinched off may be eaten like 
young Gourds or Cucumbers, or may be pickled in vinegar, like 
Gherkins. 

There are numerous classifications of Melons. Of these we 
shall follow the simplest and most common one, which divides 
them into the two groups of the Netted and the Cantaloup or 
Scabby-skinned Melons. 



I. NETTED MELONS 

French, Melons brodes. Gey-man, Netz-Melone. Italian^ Popone primaticcio. 
Spanish, Melon escrito. 

Red-fleshed Pine-apple Melon. — A vigorous, branching plant, 
with medium-sized or small, entire, rounded leaves, of a slightly 
glaucous green colour. Fruit very long stalked, with 
slightly marked ribs, and a delicate green colour, 
very plentifully dotted with black-green ; the furrows 
between the ribs are very shallow and of a clear 
green colour, and the ribs themselves are slightly 
netted when the fruit is quite ripe ; rind thin. The 
fruit is from about 3 to 4 in. in diameter, and weighs 
from about ten ounces and a half to over one pound. 
The flesh is red, rather firm, sweet, juicy, and highly Red-fleshed 
perfumed. In this variety the central cavity seldom ^^^lekfif^^ 
exceeds the size of a walnut. naturaTsize). 

Green-fleshed Pine-apple, . or Jersey Green 
Citron, Melon. — The principal difference between this and the 
preceding variety is in the colour of the flesh, which is of a pale 
green, with a yellow tinge in the vicinity of the seeds ; the 
leaves also are somewhat larger and lighter coloured. The plant 
continues growing for a longer time, and the skin of the fruit 




412 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



is rather more netted when ripe. Both this and the preceding 
kind will readily carry and ripen from six to eight fruit on 
each plant. 

Green Climbing Melon. — A vigorous, branching plant, with 
long slender stems. Leaves dark green, sometimes five-lobed, 
especially those near the ends of the stems ; fruit oblong, with ribs 
faintly marked, deep green in colour, slightly dotted with pale 
green, 4 or 5 in. long and 3 or 4 in. in diameter, and weighing from 
about one pound to one pound and a half ; flesh green, very melting, 

exceedingly juicy and 



on espalier stakes, or even on a wall, if it has something to which 
it can attach itself. When grown in this way, the fruit ripens 
quicker and better. 

Some other kinds of Melon might be grown in the same way. 
The American Pine-apple Melons, which have very long and 
branching stems, are particularly well adapted for growing on 
trellises. The kinds that succeed the best in this way are those 
which grow rapidly and ripen early, and the fruit of which does not 
require the artificial heat of a hot-bed along with the natural heat 
of the sun to render it very sweet. 

Golden Perfection Melon. — Fairly vigorous in growth, not 
straggling, with rather thin stems and leaves of a pale, gray-green. 




sweet, with an agreeable 
perfume, although not so 
delicate as that of the 
Cantaloup Melons. It 
cannot be said that this 
variety requires a different 
mode of culture from 
that which is commonly 
employed for the other 
varieties of Netted Melons ; 
yet its earliness renders 
it more suitable for grow- 
ing in the open air than 
most other kinds, and the 
small size of the fruit 
allows of the stems being 
grown on a slight trellis, 
which would be impossible 
in the case of a large 
heavy-fruited variety. By 
planting it in pockets 
filled with manure covered 
with good soil, it may be 
easily brought to climb 



Green Climbing Melon (| natural size). 



NETTED MELONS 



413 



IS 



The fruit is spherical in shape, 4 to 5 in. or so in diameter, and 
usually not more than two to four pounds in weight. The skin 
at first smooth and dull 
white, turning to yellow as 
the fruit ripens, becoming 
covered also with a thin 
network of slender lines 
crossed at right angles. The 
flesh is pale green, luscious, 
sugary, and perfumed. An 
early, rather delicate variety, 
only succeeding about Paris 
when grown under glass. 

Tours Netted Sugar 
Melon. — This is a rather 
variable kind, having:; several 
differ 
in the 



which 




Golden Perfection Melon. 



sub-varieties 
from one another 
shape of the fruit. One form 
of it is often met with, of 
which the fruit is oblong; but the best form appears to be that which 
we are about to describe. This is a vigorous plant, of medium size, 
and rather branching. Leaves large, entire or not very deeply 
lobed, slightly folded at the edges, and a rather vivid green 
colour ; fruit spherical, about 6 in. in diameter, devoid of ribs or 
having them very faintly marked, and completely covered with very 
coarse, broad, and prominent tracings, crossing one another at right 





Tours Netted Sugar 
Melon. 



Paris Market-Garden Melon 
(i natural size). 



angles and surrounding the fruit like a network of cords ; flesh 
orange-red, thick, firm, and generally very good. The fruit ripens 
half-late. A plant may carry three fruit. 

Round Netted Paris Market-Garden Melon. — A branching, 
vigorous plant, with numerous rounded light green leaves, slightly 



414 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



toothed on the margin. Fruit nearly spherical or more or less 
flattened at the ends, entirely without ribs, and very uniformly 
covered with regular and very fine tracings, forming a very close 
network which completely hides the natural colour of the skin ; 
flesh orange colour, thick, and firm. The fruit is about 8 or lo in! 
in diameter, and weighs, on an average, from four and a half to six 
and three-quarter pounds. A well-grown plant may carry two 
fruit. 

The Saint-Laud Market-Garden Melon and the Maze Market- 
Garden Melon (from the neighbourhood of Angers) are somewhat 
like the preceding kind, but differ from it in being oblong in shape, 
having the ribs rather well marked and the skin more coarsely 
netted. The flesh is orange-coloured, firm, and usually very sweet. 




Saint-Laud Market-Garden Melon Nutmeg Melon {\ natural 

{\ natural size). size). 



Nutmeg Melon. — A medium-sized, branching plant. Leaves 
largish, waved at the edges, and of a rather dark, wan green colour ; 
fruit oval, almost pear-shaped, narrowed to a point at the stalk end 
and bluntly rounded at the other ; skin dark green, almost black, 
marked with whitish tracins^s forming a rather loose network. The 
length of the fruit varies from about 6 to 8 in., and the diameter 
from 4 to about 6 in. The average weight is about two pounds and 
a quarter. Flesh green, not very thick, but juicy, sweet, and highly 
perfumed. This is a hardy and easily grown kind, ripening half- 
late. Three fruit may be left on each plant. 

Honfleur Melon. — A very vigorous-growing plant, with very 
branching, long, and slender stems. Leaves large and luxuriant, folded 
and waved at the edges, light green in colour, usually distinctly lobed, 
and toothed on the entire margin, and especially so towards the 
extremity. The plant continues to flower for an exceedingly 



NETTED MELONS 



415 



lengthened period, producing blooms in succession on the branches, 
even after the fruit which set first have almost attained their full 
size. Fruit very large, 
long, with well-marked 
ribs, finely netted all over, 
and becoming a yellow, 
slightly salmon, colour 
when ripe ; flesh orange- 
coloured and thick. The 
fruit is sometimes 14 to 
16 in. long and 8 to 10 in. 
in diameter. When it is 
well grown, the quality is 
often excellent. It ripens 
half-late. 

This and the Black 
Rock Melon are the 
largest of all the Melons 
in cultivation, the Honfleur 
being equally remarkable 
for its great hardiness. 

Hybrid Vallerand 
Melon. — A vigorous, 
branching plant of quick 
growth, a cross between 
the Green Climbing Melon 
and the Large Rock 
Prescott Cantaloup Melon, 
cut. 




Very Large Netted Honfleur Melon. 



The leaves are dark green, only slightly 
The fruit is a long oval, and slighly ribbed, weighing about 
four pounds. The skin is dark green, with 
only a few markings. The flesh is a dark 
orange-red, thick, firm, juicy, and fragrant. 
It is a disease-resisting and good keeping 
variety, also early. 

Red-fleshed Cavaillon Melon. — A large 
vigorous-growing plant, with large grayish 
green leaves which have distinctly marked 
and very rounded lobes. Fruit oblong, some- 
times almost spherical, blunt at both ends, 
and with well-marked ribs. When ripe, the 
skin is orange-coloured, and is broadly and 
densely netted, resembling the Tours Sugar 
Melon in this respect. The furrows between 
the ribs are very narrow, and, when the fruit 
is ripe, become reduced to mere lines. The stalk of the fruit is 
remarkably thick and strong. The flesh is a bright red colour, 




Red-fleshed Cavaillon 
Melon (|- natural size). 



4i6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



thick, a little coarse, juicy, and of a high vinous flavour. The fruit 
ripens slowly. This variety is hardy, and is grown in the open air in 
the south of France, almost without any attention. The fruit has a 
tendency to become modified in shape, and, at the present day, is 
more elongated than it was twenty-five years ago. The district about 
Cavaillon is one of the great centres of Melon-growing in the south 
of France, and there are many distinct varieties in cultivation there, 
so that the name " Cavaillon Melon " is rather an indication of the 
place in which the fruit has been raised than a true specific name. 
The variety which we have just described is at the present time far 
less commonly grown in its native district than the various forms of 
Malta Winter, and especially of Malta Summer Melons, such as the 
following : * 

Green-fleshed Cavaillon or Malta Summer Melon. — A 

vigorous-growing plant, with very long stems. Leaves broad, 
rounded, toothed on their entire margin, and of a palish green 
colour. Fruit oblong, 5 or 6 in. in diameter, and 9 or 10 in. in 
length ; skin smooth, of a dark green colour, thinly and loosely 
netted when ripe ; flesh pale green, rather firm, but very juicy, 
sweet, and perfumed in warm climates ; seldom good, however, in 
the climate of Paris. 

Ribbed Cavaillon Red-fleshed Melon.— The Ribbed Cavaillon 
Melon differs from the Red-fleshed kind in having well-marked 
ribs. It is a vigorous plant, with leaves entire and vivid green. 
The fruit is spherical and ribbed ; the skin silvery white, much 
netted, and the stalk thick and swollen. The flesh is pale red, 
firm, perfumed, and sugary. Does not ripen well in the vicinity 
of Paris. 

Ribbed Cavaillon Green-fleshed Melon. — Distinguished from 
the preceding by its fruit, which is oblong in shape and less netted. 
The flesh is green, juicy, perfumed, and very sugary. It needs 
much heat to ripen, and is at its best in the south of France. Of 
all the netted sorts, it is the one most grown around Cavaillon, 
whence it is distributed throughout the southern region. The 
Cavaillon Melons are largely used in the south for various kinds 
of preserves. 

Red-fleshed M:ita Winter Melon. — A plant of moderate 
vigour, with slendc and very branching stems. Leaves slight, 
gray-green, usually entire, but slightly twisted at the margin ; 
fruit oblong, blunt at both ends, only about one-fourth or one- 
third longer than b^'oad, seldom exceeding 9 or 10 in. in length, 
and weighing from t.xree and a quarter to four and a half pounds. 
The ribs are marked, but not very prominently, the furrows between 
them being a gray-green, and the top of the ribs pale green spotted 
with dark green, and covered, when ripe, with very short, almost 
entirely longitudinal tracings. The fruit-stalk is inclined to be 



NETTED MELONS 



417 




long and very slender for the size of the fruit. Flesh red, rather 
thick, juicy, very sweet, and musky. If the fruit is gathered before 
the proper time, it remains 
firm and almost hard. 
This variety succeeds well 
in the open air, but re- 
quires a southern climate 
to grow it to perfection. 

Green-fleshed Malta 
Winter Melon.— A 
vigorous - growing plant, 
with long trailing stems 
and numerous long 
branches. Leaves erect, 
dark and rather dull green, 
rounded and bluntly 
toothed ; leaf-stalks very 
stiff. The leaves are 
usually not large, and re- 
main rolled up, in the 
shape of a funnel. Fruit 
oblong, rounded, blunt at 
both ends, and particu- 
larly so at the end farthest 
from the stalk ; skin white, 
tinged with green, entirely smooth, or with a few tracings on the 
pair next the stalk. The fruit is from 7 to 9 in. long, and 5 or 
6 in. in diameter, and weighs from three and a quarter to four 

and a half pounds. A 
plant may carry two or 
three fruit. In the south 
of France this variety is 
very much grown for a 
late autumn crop. The 
fruit gathered at that time 
are :ept in a fruit-room 
for w inter use. They are 
also preserved in sugar 
or converted into jam. 

Olive Winter Melon. 
— M'!ch grown in the 
south of Europe and in 

Green-fleshed Malta Winter Melon (i natural size). ^^Igeria ; itS merits are 

much the same as those of 
the other Winter Melons. It is one of those exported to northern 
cities late in the autumn. The fruit is oblong, tapering at both 

27 



Red-fleshed Malta Winter Melon. 




4i8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



ends ; the skin smooth, dark green, more or less bronzed at 
maturity, and sometimes irregularly furrowed, but not ribbed. 

The flesh is red, fairly 
thick, very sweet, juicy, 
and of true Melon flavour. 

AntibesGreen-fleshed 
Melon. — A vigorous, 
branching, trailing plant, 
differing from most of 
the other varieties by its 
light gray, much-folded 
leaf, which makes it appear 
more deeply lobed than 
it is. The fruit bluntly 
oval and dull white, and 
smooth when ripe. The 
flesh is green, very sw^eet 
and juicy, and very fresh 
and agreeable in taste, 
It grows best on the coast 
of Provence. Gathered 
fully ripe in October, it keeps perfectly until the month of February, 
and furnishes a very welcome dessert during winter. In the 
climate of Paris it is not at its best, nor does it keep well. 



Other Varieties of Netted Melons. 

Melon Blanc de Russie. — Fruit small and round, without 
ribs ; skin smooth, and entirely white ; flesh white, with not much 
flavour. 

Melon Blanc a Chair Verte.— A very distinct kind. Fruit 
medium-sized, very much flattened at the ends, and weighing from 
two to three pounds ; skin white, smooth ; ribs well marked ; flesh 
very thick, excellent in quality, and green throughout. 

Melon Boulet de Canon. — A small and rather early variety, 
with spherical fruit 5 or 6 in. in diameter ; skin smooth, green, 
marked here and there with a few^ fine tracings ; flesh pale green. 

Melon de Cassaba, or de la Casba. — This kind, which is in high 
repute in the East, appears to require a warm climate to bring it to ^ 
perfection. In appearance it is like the Green-fleshed Malta | 
Summer Melon. 

Cyprus Melon. — Fruit oblong, with ribs faintly marked, of a 
grayish white colour, very slightly netted, the furrows being 
of a dark green ; flesh orange-coloured, firm, very thick, and high 
flavoured. 




Antibes Winter Green-fleshed Melon. 



NETTED MELONS 



419 




Moscatello Melon 
(■^ natural size). 



Composite Melon.— Fruit oblong, with prominent ribs and 
a thin rind, dark green in colour, almost entirely covered with 
network of medium thickness ; flesh red, firm, 
sweet, and well tasted. 

Melon de Coulommiers. — Fruit large, ob- 
long, with tolerably well-marked ribs, and very 
like the Honfleur Melon, of which it appears 
to be a sub-variety. A rather late kind. 

Melon d'Esclavonie. — A very distinct 
variety, with large fruit of a long oval shape, 
rounded at both ends, and with a white, smooth, 
and rather thick skin ; flesh nearly white, sweet, 
but insipid. 

Melon de Langeais.— A variety of the 
Paris Market Garden Melon, with oblong fruit, 
almost twice as long as broad ; ribs pretty well 
marked and very much netted, furro^vs smooth ; 
skin thin ; flesh red, watery, and rather insipid. 
Ripens half-late. 

Moscatello Melon. — Fruit very long, and almost pointed at both 
ends ; ribs rather well marked, of a pale gray or silvery green, and 
very seldom netted ; flesh red, very juicy, and highly perfumed. 

Persian, or Odessa, Melon. 
— A rather vigorous plant, with 
long and somewhat slender stems. 
The fruit is devoid of ribs, very 
much elongated, and narrowed to 
a point at both ends, especially 
at the stalk ends ; skin smooth, 
very dark green, with yellow bands, 
themselves spotted or striped with 
green ; flesh very thick, almost 
without any rind and almost en- 
tirely filling the fruit, rather firm,- 
but very finely flavoured, juicy, 
sweet, and highly perfumed. This 
Melon requires a great deal of 
heat, and seldom ripens very well 
in northern countries. 

In Persia and Turkestan there 
is a great number of varieties of 
Melons which are highly esteemed 
for their quality in those countries, 
and of which travellers speak in 
terms of admiration. The climate must have a great deal to do 
with this, as the very same kinds, when grown in France, are 




Persian, or Odessa, Melon 
(i natural size). 



420 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



always inferior to the French varieties, both in quality and especially 
in the certainty of the crop. 

Quito Melon. — Fruit small, oblong, scarcely larger than a hen's 
egg, and citron-coloured when ripe ; flesh white and acidulous. 

Siam Netted Melon. — Fruit nearly spherical, rather small ; 




Siam Netted Melon. Green-fleshed Sugar Melon (i natural size). 

Green-fleshed Sugar Melon. — A vigorous plant, with long 
branching stems. Fruit oblong, narrowed at both ends, of a pale 
green colour, finely netted when ripe, and bearing some pointed 
protuberances ; ribs well marked, but not very prominent ; flesh of 
a pale green colour, exceedingly melting and sweet. The length 
of the fruit varies from about 9 to 1 1 in., with a diameter of 4 to 6 in. 
It usually weighs from about four and a half to six and a half 
pounds. Two, or even three, fruit may be grown on each plant. 

Early Green Japanese Melon. — Fruit rather small, almost 
spherical ; ribs regular, not prominent ; skin nearly smooth, slightly 
downy, deep green, marked by a very few small tracings here and 
there ; flesh red, firm, and perfumed. 

English and American Varieties 

The English varieties of Netted Melons are very numerous. 
In this country Melons are mostly grown with the aid of artificial 
heat and more frequently as fruits than as vegetables. The varieties 
cultivated are generally rather small, and usually are round-fruited 
kinds with a very thin skin. Many of them do not succeed very 
well when grown in the open air. 



NETTED MELONS 



421 



I. Red-fleshed Varieties 

Blenheim Orange Melon. — Fruit shortly oval, netted and 
thin skinned ; flesh orange-coloured, rather thick, and very highly 
perfumed. 

Christiana Melon.— An American variety. Fruit spherical, 
with a smooth dark green skin, hardly marked by a few very fine 
tracings ; flesh red, very thick, and exceedingly fine flavoured and 
perfumed- 

Crawley Paragon Melon. — Fruit very small, spherical, netted ; 
flesh red, firm, tolerably like that of the Windsor Prize ]\Ielon. 

Emerald Gem Melon. — Small, almost round fruit, slightly 
ribbed and netted, dark green and yellow when ripe ; flesh very 
thick, salmon-red, juicy, and excellent in flavour. 

Hero of Bath Melon. — Fruit small, round, netted ; flesh red 
and firm ; skin very thin. 

Munroe's Little Heath Melon. — A very handsome and distinct 
little Melon, with slightly marked ribs flattened a little at the 
ends, and netted*; flesh red, thick, nearly filling the fruit, juicy 
and sweet. 

Osage, or Miller's Cream, Melon.— Late, medium-sized, oval, 
and dark green fruit. Resembles the Green Climbing Melon, but 
has red-coloured flesh. 

Paul Rose, or Petoskey, Melon. — Short, oval in shape, pale 
green changing to yellow. Ribs and netting strongly marked ; 
orange-red flesh, thick and sugary. 

Read's Scarlet-flesh Melon. — Fruit medium-sized, round ; skin 
dark green, netted ; flesh scarlet, melting, sweet, and good. 

Scarlet Gem Melon.— A pretty little fruit, almost spherical 
about the size of a large Orange, with a smooth gray skin covered 
with fine and rather close tracings ; flesh red, juicy, sweet, and 
highly perfumed. 

Windsor Prize Melon. — This appears to be only a sub-variety 
of the preceding kind, with still smaller fruit, but sweeter and more 
highly perfumed, if possible. 

Surprise Musk Melon.— An American variety. This is a 
form of the Orange Cantaloup Melon, which has the fruit somewhat 
larger than that of the ordinary variety. It is slightly oblong in 
shape, and netted a little on the ribs ; flesh orange-coloured 
and firm. 

Victory of Bristol Melon. — Fruit quite spherical, something 
like that of the Tours Sugar Melon, but more finely netted ; flesh 
orange-coloured, thick, sweet, and rather juicy. The skin is almost 
yellow when ripe. 



422 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



II. White- fleshed Varieties 

Bay View Musk Melon.— An American variety. Fruit oblong., 
olive-shaped ; skin green, netted ; flesh white, sweet, and not very 
thick. 

Colston Bassett Seedling Melon.— Fruit slightly oblong, blunt 
at both ends ; skin netted, yellow when ripe ; flesh white, melting, 
very juicy, and very delicately perfumed. 

Hero of Lockinge Melon. — Fruit medium-sized, rounded ; 
skin bright yellow, netted ; flesh almost white, very tender, melting, 
rich, and excellent. One of the best of Melons. 

Longleat Perfection Melon. — Fruit large, rounded ; smooth, 
greenish yellow skin ; flesh white, very melting, juicy and high 
flavoured. 

Queen Emma Melon. — Fruit rather large, almost round ; skin 
thin ; flesh white, very melting. A productive kind. 

III. Green-fleshed Varieties 

Bailey's Green-flesh Melon. — Fruit medium - sized, round 
ovate, smooth, greenish yellow ; flesh green, very tender, sweet, 
and richly flavoured. 

Baltimore, or Acme, Melon.— A climbing variety, rather more 
netted than our own variety. 

Beechwood Melon. — Fruit oval, netted, yellow-green when ripe ; 
flesh pale green, melting, sweet, and perfumed. Ripens half-late. 

Davenham Early Melon. — Fruit small, spherical, with slightly 
marked closely netted ribs and smooth furrows. The flesh is 
green and very melting. It is very like the Green-fleshed Pine- 
apple Melon, but not so trailing. 

Eastnor Castle Melon.— Fruit slightly oblong, nearly smooth, 
scarcely marked by a few tracings when ripe, and then becoming 
pale yellow, having been previously of a perfectly uniform dark 
green ; flesh very tender, sometimes a little clammy. A productive 
kind. 

Egyptian Green-flesh Melon. — Fruit rounded, blunt at both 
ends, slightly netted ; skin gray or silvery ; flesh sweet and 
perfumed. 

Gilbert's Green-flesh Melon. — Fruit rather large, oval, yellow 
when ripe ; flesh juicy and melting. A good and productive 
variety. 

Gilbert's Improved Victory of Bath Melon. — Fruit rather 
large, shortly oval, not much netted, and with ribs slightly marked ; 
flesh pale green, melting, and highly perfumed. This variety some- 
what resembles the Green-fleshed Sugar Melon, but its fruit is not 
so large. 



NETTED MELONS 



423 



Golden Queen Melon.— A vigorous kind, probably a sub- 
variety of the preceding one, with somewhat larger and well-netted 
fruit ; flesh firm, juicy, and highly flavoured- 

Hackensack Melon. — This is a vigorous form of the Green- 
fleshed Pine-apple Melon, with spherical fruit. 

Extra Early Hackensack Melon. — Much in request in New 
York markets, and about ten days earlier than the type. 

High Cross Hybrid Melon.— Fruit medium-sized, spherical, and 
of a uniform white colour ; flesh quite green, rather thick and melting. 

Montreal Market Melon. — Very big, rather late, spherical or 
slightly oblong, the ribs well marked ; skin dark green and netted 
all over ; flesh light green and sugary. 

Rocky Ford, or Netted Gem, Melon. — A late variety ; fruit 
almost round or slightly oval, ribs not high ; skin thin, netted, first 
green then a peculiar gray when ripe ; flesh pale green and very 
sweet. One of the favourites of the American markets, and grown 
in large quantities in Colorado State. 

Skillmann's Netted Melon. — A sub-variety of the Green- 
fleshed Pine-apple Melon, with fruit twice as large. 

William Tillery Melon.- — Fruit oval, with ribs very feebly 
marked ; skin dark green, slightly netted when ripe ; flesh very 
green, not very thick, quite melting and exceedingly sweet, but 
deficient in delicacy of flavour. 

II. CANTALOUP, or ROCK MELONS 

French, Melons cantaloups. German, Cantaloup-Melone. Italian, Zatta. 
Spanish, Meloncillo de Florencia. 

The name of Cantaloup Melon is of Italian origin, and dates 
back several centuries. It 
is now used to denote those 
varieties of ^lelons with 
warty skins, which is sup- 
posed to have been the 
distinctive feature of the 
original Cantaloup Melon. 
In regard to certain varie- 
ties it is not always easy to 
draw a hard-and-fast line 
between the Cantaloup 
Melons and the Netted 
Melons. 

Bellegarde Cantaloup 
Melon. — A rather slender 
plant of vigorous and rapid 
growth; the leaves are light 




Bellegarde Cantaloup Melon. 



424 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



gray-green, the fruit, which is rather long than round, measuring 
usually 4 to 6 in. in length by about 3 in. in diameter. It is only 
slightly ribbed and not very warty. It is easily recognised by the 

length and slenderness of 
the fruit-stem. The flesh 
is very thick, sugary, per- 
fumed, and a fine deep 
orange. In earliness it is 
equal, if not superior, to the 
Early Black Rock Melon. 

Vaucluse Cantaloup 
Melon. — Plant of rather 
vigorous growth, with 
stems and leaves quite 
like those of a Cantaloup 
Melon. The leaves are 
slightly cut and rather 
dark green. The fruit is 
borne on a long stalk, is 
deeply ribbed, and remarkable for its very flattened shape, being 
little more than 2 in. deep, while it is often 6 in. in its transverse 
diameter. Its weight is more frequently under than over two 
pounds and a quarter. The skin is nearly smooth, and is marbled 
with dark green on a pale green ground. This little Melon is 
remarkable for its very great earliness, and is sent to the Paris 
markets in June and July 
from the department of 
Vaucluse. 

Apple-shaped Canta- 
loup Melon.— A vigorous 
and productive plant. 
The leaves are large and 
rounded. The fruit are 
numerous, small, and 
round, measuring about 
4 in. in diameter by about 
3 in. in depth ; it is very 
slightly ribbed. The skin 
is rough and dark green 
when ripe. The flesh is 
dark orange, thick, juicy, 
and sugary, filling almost 

entirely the seed cavity. Apple-shaped Cantaloup Melon. 

It is a good Melon for small gardens, for its productiveness on a 
given surface is quite equal to that of the large-fruited sorts and 
is longer in point of time. 




Vaucluse Cantaloup Melon, 




CANTALOUP, OR ROCK MELONS 425 



Prescott Early Frame Melon. — A medium-sized plant. 
Leaves broad, rounded or slightly angular, of a light gray-green 
colour, and almost always folded in the shape of a funnel ; fruit 
spherical, or slightly flattened at the ends, with the ribs marked, 
faintly warted, marbled with dark green on a pale green ground, 
and with the bottom of the furrows a uniform olive-green ; flesh 
orange-coloured, thick, juicy, and melting. The diameter of the 
fruit is from about 5 to 6 in., and its length (from stem to eye) from 
4 to 5 in. Its weight ranges from twenty-six ounces to over two 
pounds. A plant should carry only one fruit for the early crop, 
and two for the general crop. This variety is remarkably early, 
and its quality is almost invariably excellent. It and the Early 
Black Rock Melon are the best two kinds for forcing under frames. 




Prescott Early Frame Melon Early Black Rock, or Des Carmes Cantaloup, 
(i natural size). Melon (|- natural size). 

Early Black Rock, or Des Carmes Cantaloup, Melon. — 

A medium-sized, rather branching plant. Leaves largish, of a dark, 
shining green colour, very distinctly five-lobed, folded at the edges, 
almost in the shape of a funnel ; leaf-stalk short and thick ; fruit 
nearly spherical, but slightly flattened at the ends, with ribs clearly 
but not very deeply marked ; skin usually smooth and without 
warts, of very dark green, almost black, turning to orange when 
ripe ; flesh orange-coloured, thick, sweet, perfumed, and of excellent 
quality. The diameter of the fruit varies from about 6 to 7 in., 
and its length (from stalk to eye) from about 5 to 6 in. ; it weighs 
from about two pounds and a quarter to three pounds and a half. 
A plant may carry two fruit for the general crop. This is one of 
the best and most easily grown of the early Melons. 

Bomb-shaped Cantaloup Melon. — A very vigorous grower, 
with numerous leaves of vivid green, very much cut, especially 
when young. The fruit is oblong, narrowed at both ends, some- 
times slightly netted or scaly, and a black-green when ripe. 
The skin is very thin ; the flesh dark orange, very tender and very 
juicy. Evidently sprung from the Black Rock or des Carmes 
Melon, which it resembles except in shape, it is very productive. 



426 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



a plant producing three or four fruit, which ripen in succession 
up lo September or October. It is suitable for frame as well 

as open culture. 

Sugar Cantaloup 
Melon. — A medium- 
sized, very branching, 
vigorous, and hardy 
variety. Leaves rather 
large, distinctly lobed, 
and dark gray-green ; 
fruit nearly spherical, or 
slightly flattened at the 
ends, with ribs not very 
strongly marked, of a 
uniform silvery gray 
colour, not very distin- 
guishable from the colour 
of the bottom of the 
furrows, which is a pale 
gray; flesh orange- 
coloured, very thick, 
sweet, juicy, and per- 
fumed ; skin remarkably 
thin. The diameter of 




Bomb-shaped Cantaloup Melon. 



the fruit is about 5 or 6 in., and the weight usually ranges from 
about 2 lb. 10 oz. to 3 lb. 13 oz. A plant may easily carry two 
fruit. This is one of the varieties which succeed the best in 
the open air. 

Large Rock Prescott Cantaloup Melon. — A rather vigorous 
and branching plant. Leaves medium-sized, folded at the edges, 
often five-lobed, and a rather deep, light green ; fruit large, and 
very much flattened at the ends ; ribs 
broad, very much wrinkled, covered 
with knobs and protuberances of all 
shapes, and irregularly variegated with 
dark and pale green on a whitish 
ground. The ribs are separated by 
very deep, narrow furrows. Flesh 
orange-coloured, very thick, exceedingly 
fine flavoured, juicy, and melting. The 
skin also is thick, but owing to the 
shape of the fruit, that does not prevent 
the flesh from being very abundant. 
The length of the fruit, from the stalk 
to the eye, varies from about 5 to 6 in., and the diameter from 9 
to 1 1 in., while the weight ranges from five and a half to nearly 




Sugar Cantaloup Melon 
natural size). 



CANTALOUP, OR ROCK MELONS 427 




Large Rock Prescott Cantaloup Melon. 



nine pounds. A plant is generally allowed to carry only one fruit, 
or, in rare cases, two. 

Silvery Prescott Cantaloup Melon. — This variety only differs 
from the preceding one 
in the colour of the ribs 
being somewhat more 
metallic, and in the fruit 
being a little larger, but 
of the same quality. The 
two varieties are those 
which are the most ex- 
tensively grown by the 
Paris market-gardeners, 
who supply them in 
abundance from July to 
the end of October. As 
the large Prescott Melons 
are grown to an enormous 
extent, new varieties of 
them are of frequent 
occurrence. Whenever a 
particularly good fruit 
possesses any exterior characteristic which distinguishes it, even in 
a slight degree, from others, the cultivators aim at reproducing this 
characteristic as indicative of the quality, and that is how a new 
variety is often established. 

Parisian Cantaloup Melon. — A vigorous plant with short and 
branching stem and dark green leaves, moderately cut and lobed. 

The fruit is large, 
spherical, about 12 in. 
in diameter, the ribs 
being separated by 
well-marked but very 
shallow furrows. The 
skin is silvery white 
with sometimes dark 
green blotches or warts. 
It is very like the 
Silver - white Prescott 
Cantaloup Melon, the 
most important differ- 
ence being in the depth 
of the flesh in com- 
rind. It would be difficult to find 
of flesh and thinness of rind in the 




Silvery Prescott Cantaloup Melon. 



parison with that of the 
a Melon possessing depth 
same degree. 



428 



THE vegp:table garden 




Parisian Cantaloup Melon. 



Algerian Cantaloup 
Melon. — A rather dense- 
growing plant, with 
numerous short branches. 
Leaves dark green, slightly 
cut, and very much folded 
at the edges, which gives 
them the appearance of 
being five - lobed. They 
are almost turned round 
in the shape of a funnel, 
and are very variable in 
size, those on the lower 
parts of the stems being 
three or four times as 
large as those at the ends 
of the branches. Fruit 
slightly elongated, some- 
times spherical, bearing 
embossed warts or scabs, 
which, as well as the 
bottoms of the furrows, 
are of a very dark green, 
almost black, colour, 



Vauriac Cantaloup 
Melon. — Evidently a 
selection from the Silver- 
skinned Prescott Cantaloup 
Melon, which it resembles 
in colour, but not in its 
thick, well-developed ribs, 
separated by deep furrows, 
and rough, sometimes scaly, 
skin. The flesh is a fine 
orange-red, deep, juicy, and 
of excellent quality. The 
fruit is large and heavy. 
The defect of this variety 
is the thickness of its skin, 
as compared with some 
newer varieties, especially 
the Parisian Cantaloup 
Melon. It ripens mid- 
season, and can be well 
grown in small gardens, as 
well as market-gardens. 




Vauriac Cantaloup Melon. 



CANTALOUP, OR ROCK MELONS 



429 




Algerian Cantaloup Melon 
(i natural size). 



contrasting strongly with the light silvery hue of the other parts 
of the ribs. The dark green parts change to orange colour, but 
not fully until the fruit is over-ripe, so that it should be gathered 
before the change takes place. The length 
of the fruit varies from 6 to 10 in., and 
the diameter from about 5 to 8 in., the 
weight ranging from about four and a 
half to six and three-quarter pounds. A 
plant may carry two fruit. 

It is surprising that this Melon is not 
grown by the Paris market-gardeners, as 
it is one of the hardiest summer Melons, 
and surpasses all of them, perhaps, in 
uniform goodness of quality. The flesh 
is thick, juicy, perfumed, and always very 
sweet. Ripens half-late. 

Green-fleshed Cantaloup Melon. — A 
medium-sized, branching, rather slender- 
stemmed plant. Leaves medium-sized or 
small, dark green, folded at the ed^es, and often rather deeply cut 
into five lobes ; fruit spherical, or slightly flattened at the ends, with 
faintly marked ribs, light green at the bottom of the furrows, and 
slightly warted on the convexity of the ribs, which are marbled 

with white and dark green. The 
length of the fruit varies from about 
5 to 6 in., the diameter slightly 
exceeding those dimensions, and 
the weight ranging from about 
2 lb. 10 oz. to 3 lb. 5 oz. A plant 
may carry two, and sometimes 
three, fruit. Flesh pale green, very 
thick, melting, juicy, sweet, and 
delicately perfumed. This is one 
of the finest flavoured of all the 
Cantaloup Melons. 

Black Portugal, or Rock 
Cantaloup, Melon. — A very 
vigorous, branching plant, with very 
large, soft, rounded, entire leaves, 
of a clear-green colour, more like 
the leaves of Netted Melon than 
those of a Cantaloup. Fruit very 
large, slightly oblong, very blunt, 
and almost flat at the end farthest from the stalk ; ribs deeply 
marked ; skin irregular, knobby, and marked with spots of very 
dark green on a lighter green ground ; stalk very long, and swollen 




Black Portugal, or Rock Cantaloup, 
Melon (i- natural size). 



430 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



to a remarkable degree close to the fruit. The shape of the fruit 
is somewhat variable, the length sometimes exceeding the diameter, 
and sometimes the reverse. The extreme diameters range from 
about 10 to 12 in. and the fruit often weighs from eleven to 
thirteen pounds, A plant should not be allowed to carry more 
than one fruit. 

The Maron Melon, which was mentioned some years ago, and 
which weighed, it is said, as much as twenty pounds, is a 
selection from the Black Portugal Melon. 

Other Varieties of Cantaloup Melons 

Archangel Cantaloup Melon. — A handsome, medium-sized 
variety. Fruit nearly spherical, or slightly flattened at the ends, 
with ribs faintly marked, and a gray-green, not very warty, skin, 
almost intermediate in appearance between the White Prescott and 
the Sugar Cantaloup Melon ; flesh red, thick, juicy, sweet, and 
high^ flavoured. 

Epinal Cantaloup Melon. — This appears to be a sub-variety 
of the Prescott Early Frame Melon, which it somewhat exceeds in 
size. The fruit is almost spherical, with ribs pretty well marked, 
and a pale green skin variegated with gray. Flesh red, and very 
thick. 

Early English Cantaloup Melon. — This variety, which is 
now not much grown, is distinguished by its small size and great 
earliness. The fruit is slightly flattened at the ends, and does 
not exceed 4 or 5 in. in diameter. Flesh red, fine flavoured, and 
good. 

Mogul Cantaloup Melon. — Fruit almost pear-shaped, twice as 
long as broad, with very prominent ribs ; skin wrinkled, velvety, 
and covered with warts ; flesh red and thick, but deficient in 
flavour. Ripens very late. 

Black Dutch Cantaloup Melon. — Fruit very 
large, oblong, sometimes almost pear-shaped ; ribs 
well marked, warty, of a dark green colour, almost 
black, more or less marbled with paler green ; skin 
thick ; flesh orange-red, comparatively scanty, and 
rather coarse. Ripens late. 

Orange Cantaloup Melon. — A small oblong 
Melon, ribbed ; with orange-coloured, firm, and 
not very thick flesh. Inferior in all respects to 
Me^on^^^"''^ the Bellegarde Cantaloup Melon. 
^ Passy Cantaloup Melon. — This Melon almost 

exactly resembles the Prescott Early Frame Melon in all the 
parts of the plant, differing clearly from it, however, in the fruit, 
which in the Passy Melon is smoother, more regularly spherical, 




CANTALOUP. OR ROCK MELONS 431 




Passy Cantaloup Melon. 



and considerably smaller. The skin is not warty, but simply 
spotted with darker green on a light green ground, especially 
on the parts of the fruit 
which are exposed to the 
sun. The fruit seldom ex- 
ceeds 4 in., or a little 
more, in diameter, and the 
average weight is from one 
pound and a half to one 
pound and three-quarters 
at the most. The flesh is 
red, thick, sugary, and of 
a very uniformly good 
quality, even in fruit which 
ripen late in autumn.^, 

C. Prescott a Ecorce 
Mince. — A handsome 
variety, more spherical in 
shape than most of the 
Prescott Cantaloups com- 
monly grown about Paris, 
and yet coming very near the Sugar Cantaloup, which is also 
distinguished by the thinness of the skin. 

C. Prescott Cul de Singe.— In this variety the eye of the 
fruit is considerably enlarged, the part of the fruit around it 
being swollen in such a manner as to give the fruit something 

of the appearance of a Turk's-Cap 
Gourd. This peculiarity of shape being 
sometimes found to be accidentally 
accompanied with a remarkably good 
quality in the fruit, has caused it 
to be much sought after by some 
amateurs, but there is really no 
necessary connection between the two 
things, since quite as good fruit are 
found amongst the ordinary varieties 
of Prescott Melons. The peculiar 
shape, moreover, is not confined to 
this variety, as it occasionally occurs 
in the Sugar and other Cantaloup 
Melons, and even in the Netted Melons, 

Sweet-scented, or Queen Anne's jg ^^^^^ f^^^^ accompanied 

Pocket, Melon (A natural size; . • i i • - r 

fruit, V natural size). With an mvariable improvement of 

quality in any variety. 
Queen Anne's Pocket Melon, or Pomegranate Melon.— A 
slender climbing plant of light foliage, the leaf more or less deeply 




432 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



divided into five lobes. Fruit numerous, very small, depressed at 
the ends, unribbed, but marked with bands of green and yellow ; 
flesh not thick, pale orange, and uneatable ; seeds small and oval 
shaped. The scent of this fruit, which resembles that of other 
Melons, though less powerfully, is pleasant enough in the ripening 
fruit ; but the flavour of the fruit does not correspond with the 
perfume, and its chief value as a plant is for covering trellises, etc. 
To this variety has been long ascribed the Peach Melon, a small, 
smooth, yellow fruit, scarcely worth eating when raw, but as a 
preserve recalling the flavour of the Peach to some palates ; but it 
is rather referrable to the Quito Melon, already mentioned, if indeed 
the two are not identical. 

WATER-MELON 

Citrullus vulgaris, Schrad. Cucumis Ciirullus, Ser. ; Cuairbita 
Citrulhts, L. Cucurbitacece. 

French, Melon d'eau, Pasteque. German^ Wasser-Melone. Italian^ Cocomero. 
Spanish, Sandia. Portuguese, Melancia. 

Native of Africa. — Annual. — The Water-Melon is a climbing 
plant with slender and very long stems, particularly suitable for 
warm climates, where the watery but insipid pulp of the fruit is 
considered very refreshing. The whole of the plant is covered with 
long, soft, grayish hairs. The leaves are rather large, and divided 
into numerous segments, which are also cut or lobed. All the 
divisions of the leaves, as well as the spaces between the divisions, 
are rounded in outline, which gives the foliage of the plant a very 
peculiar appearance. The flowers are rather like Melon-flowers ; 
they are monoecious, and the female flowers are placed on the top 
of the ovoid and very hairy ovaries, which, as they grow, become 
changed into perfectly smooth, spherical, or oblong fruit. The 
colour of the fruit is sometimes a uniform more or less dark green, 
and sometimes variegated and marbled with grayish green on a 
darker ground. The fruit is filled with flesh or pulp, the colour of 
which varies from greenish white to dark red. The seeds are in 
longitudinal rows, and are flat, oval, short, and of various colours — 
white, yellow, red, brown, or black. Their germinating power lasts 
for six years. The varieties of Water-Melons are almost without 
number, the plant being very extensively cultivated in countries 
where little importance is attached to pureness of variety, and 
where different kinds may be seen growing and flowering side 
by side. 

Culture. — The Water-Melon, being a native of warm countries, 
is not much grown in Europe, except on the shores of the Mediter- 
ranean and in the south of Russia, where it forms an important 
article of food. In all tropical countries it is one of the commonest 



WATER-MELON 



433 



fruits, and is grown there, like the Melon, in the open air and 
without any trouble. In the climate of Paris it requires, like the 
Melon, the aid of artificial 
heat ; but it is only grown 
there as a curiosity, the 
fruit being always insipid. 
The only difference in the 
culture of it from that of 
the Melon is, that the 
Water-Melon plants are 
never pinched or stopped, 
the produce being always 
better the more freely the 
stems are allowed to grow. 
We have never known it 
to be well grown in 
England. 

Uses. — The ripe pulp 
of the fruit is eaten raw, 
like a Melon. Sometimes 
the fruit is sliced, and 
preserved either alone or 
mixed with other kinds of 
fruit. It is also made into 




Early Russian Water-Melon.. 



jam. Before it has ripened, it may be boiled and eaten like a 
Vegetable Marrow. It is of great value in hot countries. 

Early Russian 
Water - Melon. — A 
vigorous plant, with olive- 
green fruit, weighing 
usually less than four 
pounds. It is the earliest 
of all Water - Melons, 
ripening in ordinary 
seasons as early as 
August. The flesh is 
melting and juicy. It 
is the best of all Water- 
Melons. 

Very Early Rodosto 
Water- Melon (Black- 
seeded), — Not so early 
as the Seikon, it ripens 
well in the climate of 




Early Rodosto Water-Melon, 



Paris. A vigorous plant, with stems lO ft. long, bearing many 
fruit cf pale green colour, rather small, spherical, very slightly 

28 



434 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Seikon Water-Melon. 



flattened, with ribs faintly marked. The flesh is red, deep, juicy, 
very sugary, and of a very pleasant flavour. Grown on a hot-bed, 
it ripens in average seasons in the second half of August. 

Very Early Seikon 
Water-Melon. — A 
variety introduced from 
Japan, of remarkable 
earliness, owing to which 
it ripens better in the 
climate of Paris than most 
Water-Melons, which, as 
grown in the north of 
France, are generally poor 
in flavour. It has a rather 
short stem, and deeply 
cut leaf, quite distinct, 
and wilting readily. The 
fruit is almost spherical, 
slightly flattened at the 
ends ; the colour dark 
green, with sometimes 
faintly black streaks. The tlesh is red, and the seeds are black. 

Red-fleshed and Red-seeded Water-Melon. — A very early 
Water-Melon. The fruit is slightly oblong, olive-green, and about 
7 or 8 in. in length, and about 4 in. in diameter, weighing two to 
four pounds. It is a productive and well-shaped variety from Pro- 
vence, early enough to ripen well in the climate of Paris. The flesh 
is melting, very juicy, 
delicately perfumed, and a 
fine bright red. 

Black-seeded Water- 
Melon. — Fruit oblong, 20 
in. to 2 ft. long and 12 to 
14 in. in diameter ; skin 
smooth, dark green ; flesh 
red, very melting, slightly 
sweet, and filling the whole 
of the fruit ; seed varying 
from dark red to black. 
This variety is most 
usually eaten raw, and, 
along with its sub-varieties, 
is the kind most com- 
monly grown on all the shores of the Mediterranean. 

The Helopa Water-Melon is a vigorous plant, with very large, 
spherical, or slightly flattened fruit ; skin thin, pale green, marbled 




Black-seeded Water-Melon natural size). 



WATER-MELON 



435 



with still lighter green ; flesh greenish white, firm, but not very 
sweet ; seed black. The fruit sometimes weighs nearly five pounds. 
It ripens half-late, and is seldom eaten except as a preserve. It is 
sometimes used for feeding 
cattle. 

Red-seeded Water- 
Melon. — A vigorous plant, 
but not so luxuriant in 
growth as the black-seeded 
variety. The stems spread 
along the ground, and are 
seldom more than about 
8 ft. long ; they have com- 
paratively few branches. 
The leaves are broad, with 
the lobes broader and less 
cut than those of any 
other Water- ]\Ielon. Fruit 

spherical, 12 to 16 in. in Red-seeded Water-Melon (| natural size). 

diameter, of a rather pale 

green, variegated with gray bands marbled with green ; flesh 
watery, but rather firm, and greenish white ; seed pink or red. 
The fruit of this variety requires nearly four months' heat to 
ripen it, and is chiefly used preserved or made into jam. 

American Varieties 

In the United States Water-Melons are very highly esteemed 
and very extensively grown. The chief varieties are the following : 

Black Spanish Water-Melon. — Fruit large, rounded, or shortly 
oblong, with ribs slightly marked ; skin nearly black ; flesh dark 
red ; seed brown or blackish. A hardy and productive kind. 

Citron Water-Melon. — A kind only used for preserving. 
Fruit small, spherical, marked with alternate bands of dark green 
and silvery white; flesh white, ver}^ firm, almost hard, scarcely edible 
in the raw state. It is cut in slices, and preserved like Citrons. 

Cuban Queen Water-Melon. — Fruit medium-sized, oval, 
marked alternately with bands of light and dark green ; flesh bright 
red and sugary. 

Excelsior Water-Melon. — A handsome, almost spherical, fruit. 

Florida Favourite Water-Melon. — Early, very large, long, 
streaked with light green on a darker ground ; flesh deep red and 
good in quality. 

Gipsy Water-Melon. — An enormously large kind. Fruit 
oblong, dark green, marked with paler spots in longitudinal bands ; 
flesh red ; seed brown or black. 




43^ 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Ice-cream, or Peerless, Water-Melon. — Fruit rounded, large, 
often flattened at the ends ; skin thick, of a very pale green ; flesh 
white and sweet ; seed white. 

Icing, Ice-rind, or Strawberry Water-Melon. — A sub-variety 
of the White-seeded Water-Melon, remarkable for the red colour 
of the flesh of the fruit, which is of moderate size, very sweet, 
melting, and agreeably perfumed. 

Mountain, or Mountain Sweet, Water-Melon. — Fruit large, 
elongated, oval, sometimes slightly contracted like a Gourd, and 
without ribs ; skin marked with faint bands, some pale, others 
darker in colour ; flesh red, entirely filling the fruit ; seed more or 
less dark brown. A hardy and productive kind. 

Mountain Sprout Water-Melon. — This variety comes ex- 
ceedingly close, in every respect, to the preceding one, but is a 
little later. 

Orange Water-Melon. — Fruit medium-sized, oval ; skin smooth, 
marbled with dark green on a paler green ground ; flesh red, tender, 
and sweet. 

Rattlesnake Water-Melon. — A fine form of the Black-seeded 
Water-Melon. Fruit oblong, elongate, and of a uniform dark green 
colour ; flesh very red. 

Round Light Icing, Ice-rind, Strawberry Water-Melon. — 

White-seeded, remarkable for the red colour of its flesh. Medium- 
sized fruit, rounded ; flesh very sweet, pleasantly perfumed, and 
melting. 

Dark Icing Water-Melon. — Is a deeper green than the fore- 
going and the Long Light Icing, or Gray Monarch; has larger fruit. 

Sweet Heart \Vater- Melon.— Fruit large, rounded or slightly 
oblong ; skin pale green, with bands of deeper colour ; flesh red, 
melting, and sweet. 

Many other varieties of Water-Melons might be mentioned, as 
they are perhaps as numerous as those of Melons properly so 
called ; but as this work is chiefly written for countries in which 
the cultivation of Water-Melons seldom succeeds, we limit ourselves 
to the number just described. 

MINT, or SPEARMINT 

Mentha virzdis. 'L. Labiates. 

Menthe verte. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A plant with a creeping root- 
stock. Stem erect, with spreading branches at the top ; leaves 
nearly sessile, lanceolate-acute, slightly rounded at the base, and 
with distantly placed teeth on the edges ; flowers pink or lilac, in 
cylindrical spikes ; seed very scanty, exceedingly fine, roundish, 
brown. 



MINT, OR SPEARMINT 



437 



Culture. — This plant is usually propagated by division 
in spring. It prefers a cool moist soil, and a plantation of it will 
last for several years, if the stems are cut off close to the ground 
every autumn, and a layer of good soil or compost placed over the 
plants. 

Uses. — The leaves and the ends of the shoots are used for 
seasoning and for Mint sauce, which, in England especially, is 
considered indispensable for some dishes. 

PEPPERMINT 

Mentha piperita, L. Labiates, 
French, Menthe poivree. German, Pfeffermiinze. Danish, Pebbermjmte. 

A native of North Europe. — Perennial. — A plant with a creeping 
stem, which readily takes root. Leaves stalked, oblong or 
lanceolate-acute ; flowers in a cylindrical-oblong spike and of 
a red-violet colour. This species does not produce seed. 

Culture. — The Peppermint-plant is grown in the same manner 
as the Common Mint or Spearmint. Although, in the wild state, 
it is usually found in parts of meadows which are wet and almost 
under water, it nevertheless succeeds well in moist, deep garden soil. 
It is always propagated from cuttings of the stems, which take root 
with the greatest readiness. 

Uses. — The leaves and stems are sometimes used for seasoning, 
but they are chiefly employed for the distillation of the essence of 
peppermint. 

Japanese Mint. — Introduced from Japan, it is very like the 
Peppermint, but differs from that by its flowers being situated at 
the axils of its leaves instead of being produced in terminal spikes, 
and also by being reproduced by seed. Its cultivation is the same 
as that of the Peppermint, except for the fact that it can be raised 
from seed. The uses of both are the same. Like the Peppermint, it 
contains menthol, but in larger quantity. 

PENNYROYAL 

Mentha Pulegium, L. Labiates. 

Menthe pouliot. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A plant with prostrate stems, 
which readily take root, bearing round-oval, slightly hairy leaves 
of a gray-green colour. Flowers small, lilac-blue, in rounded 
whorled clusters rising one above another in tiers on the stem, 
sometimes to the number of ten or twelve ; seed exceedingly fine, 
oval, and of a light brown colour. The whole plant gives out a 
very agreeable odour, which is somewhat more powerful than that 



438 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



of any other kind of Mint. The Pennyroyal prefers stiff moist 
soils. It is propagated by division, and a plantation of it will last 
for several years. The leaves are used for seasoning puddings and 
various dishes. It is seldom seen in English kitchen-gardens. 

CAT-MINT 

Nepeta Cataria, L. LabiatCB, 

French, Menthe de chat. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A tall plant, with erect branch- 
ing stems about 3^- ft. high. Leaves stalked, oval or heart-shaped, 
notched at the edges, and whitish on the under-surface ; flowers 
white, in terminal clusters composed of small heads which are wide 
apart at the bottom, but become more crowded towards the top ; 
seeds brown, smooth, ovoid, with three well-defined angles. Their 
germinating power lasts for five years. It is easily raised from 
seed sown in spring or autumn in lines, which should be 20 in. apart, 
as the plants attain a considerable size. They require no attention, 
and will last for several years, if the ground is kept free from weeds. 
The leaves and young shoots are used for seasoning. 

MUGWORT 

Artemisia vulgaris^ L. Composites. 

French, Armoise. German^ Beifuss. Dutch, Bijvoet. Italian, Santolina. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — An exceedingly hardy plant, 
forming very long-lived tufts or clumps. Leaves dark green on the 
upper surface, whitish underneath, pinnate, with oval-lanceolate seg- 
ments, the lower ones stalked, the stem-leaves sessile and auricled ; 
stems from 2 to over 3 ft. high, red and furrowed ; flower-heads 
small, green, in large, erect, pyramidal, irregular clusters on the 
ends of the stems and branches ; seeds very small, oblong, gray, 
and smooth. Their germinating power lasts for three years. 

CULTURE.—Exactly the same as that of Wormwood {see 
Wornrwood). 

Uses. — The leaves have a strong, bitter, aromatic taste, and are 
sometimes used for seasoning. 

MUSHROOMS 

Agaricus campestris^ L. Fungi. 

French, Champignon comestible. German, Schwamm. Flemish and Dutch, 
Kanrpernoelie. Italian, Fungo pratajolo. Spanish, Seta. 

The cultivated Mushroom is the same kind as that which grows 
naturally in meadows and pastures, and in the wild state is known 



MUSHROOMS 



439 



in France by the names of Champignon Rose, C. des Prh, and C. de 
Ros^e. In this species, as in the case of most other Mushrooms, 
people generally suppose that the parts which in reality are only 
the organs of fructification are the entire plant. The true plant, 
however, which feeds, grows, and finally prepares to flower, is the 
network of whitish threads which form what is commonly called 
the " spawn," or, botanically, the mycelium, of the Mushroom. 
The growth of this spawn, which is suspended in dry weather, 
becomes active under the influence of moisture accompanied with 
a sufficient degree of heat, and is developed in an especial degree 
in horse-manure, which appears to be the most favourable medium 
of all for the growth of this species. When the Mushroom-plant 
is on the point of flowering, it swells and produces small whitish 
excrescences, w^hich 
soon assume the shape 
of a miniature parasol, 
usually white on the 
upper surface, and 
covered underneath 
with a number of very 
thin radiating plates 
or " gills," which are 
at first of a pale pink 
colour, and gradually 
change to brown. 
This parasol or cap 
is borne on the top 

of a cylindrical, fleshy, Mushroom Tablet (virgin spawn). 

white stalk. The 

colour of the ''gills" is an index whereby the Edible Mushroom 
is distinguished from the poisonous, and happily rare, kinds with 
which it might be confounded. 

In the neighbourhood of Paris several varieties of the Edible 
Mushroom are in cultivation. These differ from one another in 
the colour and general appearance of the skin. It has been found 
from experience that these varieties (of which there are three 
principal ones, viz. the White, the Gray, and the Yellow) are not 
invariably constant, and that after some time, and when removed 
from the special conditions under which they were produced, they 
lose their distinctive character, and revert to the Common White 
kind. After several comparative trials, the White variety appears 
to us to be the best for the table. The Yellow variety is not so 
tender nor so well scented, while the Gray variety, although of a 
stronger flavour, has the drawback of discolouring the sauces made 
with it, even when it is not nearly full grown. 

Culture. — Mushrooms may be easily grown everywhere, 




440 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



and at all seasons, by following some directions which we shall 
endeavour to give as briefly and clearly as possible. The con- 
ditions essential to success in cultivating Mushrooms consist in 
growing them in very rich artificial soil and in a moderately warm 
steady temperature. And it is for this last that cellars and old 
subterranean quarries are often utilised for their culture. Any 
other kind of place would answer equally well, provided that, either 
naturally or by the use of artificial means, its temperature never 
rose above 86° Fahr., nor fell much below 50° Fahr. 

After selecting a suitable place, the first thing to attend to is 
the making of the bed or beds in which the Mushrooms are to 

grow. The indispensable 
ingredient of this is horse- 
manure, if possible that 
of strong, well-fed animals, 
not too abundantly bedded 
with straw, for it is best 
that the manure should 
not contain too much 
straw. It will not do to 
make the beds with this 
manure just as it comes 
from the stable, as the 
fermentation would be too 
great and would give out 
too much heat. It should, 
therefore, be tempered 
down by mixing it as 
thoroughly as possible 
with a fourth or a fifth 
, / ^ 1 ^ part of good garden soil. 

Mushrooms (natural size). \ ^ . , 

As soon as this is done, 
the beds should be at once made with the mixture, which will 
ferment slowly and give out a moderate constant heat. Care 
should be taken to place the beds in a very well-drained place, 
rather dry than damp ; and when they are made, all projecting 
straws, etc., should be removed and the surfaces made level and 
very firm. 

If the manure is used pure, as it is by some Mushroom growers 
about Paris, it should be allowed to spend some of its heat before 
being employed. For this purpose it is brought from the stables 
to a place of preparation, where it is put into a square heap, about 
a yard or more high, formed of successive layers, well mixed 
together, so as to render the whole mass as homogeneous as 
possible, all foreign substances being carefully eliminated. Any 
parts that seem too dry are slightly moistened ; the sides are then 




MUSHROOMS 



441 



trimmed and trodden down well, so as to reduce the height to 
about 2 ft. 8 in. The heap is then left until the heat produced by 
the fermentation threatens to become excessive, which is denoted 
by the hottest parts commencing to turn white. This usually 
occurs in from six to ten days after the making of the heap. The 
whole heap must then be taken down and made up again exactly 
as before, taking care to make the interior of it consist of the 
manure which was previously on the outside, and which was con- 
sequently less fermented. It generally happens that within a few 
days after the heap has been thus re-made, the fermentation 
becomes so violent that the heap has to be thrown down and 
re-made a third time. 

Sometimes after the 
second re-making, the 
manure will be fit for 
forming the beds. It 
may be known when 
this can be done with- 
out any danger by the 
manure having become 
of a brown colour, the 
straw having entirely 
lost its usual consistence, 
and the whole being 
elastic and greasy to the 
touch, and having no 
longer the smell of fresh 
horse-manure, but rather 
that of the Mushroom. 
It is difficult to obtain 
a good preparation of 
horse-manure unless a 

sufficient quantity is Small movable Mushroom-beds placed against a wall. 

operated upon at once. 

The heap should measure at least a yard, or a little more, every 
way. This is^ a frequent cause of failure with amateurs, and 
should be avoided. Even if a less quantity is required for the 
beds, the manure should be prepared in a heap of at least the 
dimensions we have just mentioned, and any of it that is not 
required for the Mushroom-beds will be very useful for any other 
kind of vegetables in the kitchen-garden. 

When the manure is in a proper condition, it is brought to the 
place where the Mushrooms are to be grown and made into beds 
at once. The beds may be of any shape or size desired, but 
experience has shown that both the manure and the space at 
disposal will be employed to the best advantage by making the 




442 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



beds from 20 to 24 in. high, and about as wide at the base. An 
excessive rise of temperature from a fresh fermentation is less to 
be apprehended in beds of this size than in larger ones. When 
there is a good deal of room to spare, the best plan is to make the 
beds sloping at both sides and of any length that may be thought 
fit, but always of the same height and the same width at the base 
as we have just mentioned. When the beds, however, are made up 
against a wall or other perpendicular support, and have but one 
sloping side, the width at the base should be less than the height. 
Beds may also be made in old tubs, in casks sawn in two, or on 
plain flat boards, in which cases the beds should be of a conical 
shape, or in the form of the heaps of broken stones or road-metal 
often seen on roadsides. In this way it is possible to carry beds 
ready-made into cellars or other parts of dwelling-houses, where 

one would not like to bring 
in a lot of rough manure 
and litter the place by 
making the beds there. 

The beds are made by 
hand. The dung to be in 
a fit condition must be 
mellow and well divided, 
and if hard or in lumps 
must be crushed. The more 
compact material should be 
Mushrooms grown in a tub. again mixed with the straw 

portion, so that the whole 
will be of an equal texture. It should be placed in regular layers, 
each layer being firmly trodden down. When the bed has attained 
the proper height, the sides should be made slanting and carefully 
trimmed, all projecting straws should be withdrawn and the surface 
made smooth and firm. 

After the beds are made it is best to wait a few days before 
spawning them, in order to see whether any excessive fermentation 
will ensue. This may generally be pretty well ascertained by 
thrusting the finger into the bed, but the surest way is to use a 
thermometer. As long as the temperature is over 30° C, or 86° 
Fahr., the bed is too hot, and must be allowed time to cool down. 
The cooling will be quickened by making a few holes here 
and there in the bed with a stick, to allow the heat to escape. 
When the temperature stands pretty steadily at about 25° C, or 
78° Fahr., it is time to put in the spawn. This may sometimes be 
found growing naturally in old hot-beds, or on the edges of manure 
heaps, and may be used for this purpose ; but it is far better to 
employ the dried spawn sold by seedsmen, which may be obtained 
at all seasons, and which grows much quicker, is more to be 




MUSHROOMS 



443 




Movable two-sided Mushroom-bed. 



depended on, and will keep good from one year to another. For a 
few days before it is used, it should be kept in a moderately warm, 
moist atmosphere, which has the effect of stimulating it into a more 
speedy and certain growth. For that purpose, after having been 
slightly moistened on both sides, it may be spread out on the beds 
themselves or between 
two beds. Just before 
use, the spawn should 
be broken up in pieces 
about the length and 
thickness of the hand 
by half that width, and 
each piece then inserted 
lengthwise into the bed, 
flush with the surface, 
into openings made with 
the hand, at a distance of from lo to 12 in. each way, carefully 
pressing the dung around each piece after insertion. 

In beds of the usual height (from 20 in. to 2 ft), two rows of 
pieces are generally set, in such a way that those of the upper row 
may be opposite the intervals between those in the lower row. 
The pieces should only be buried their own depth in the bed, and 
they are commonly put in with the right hand, while the left is 
employed to excavate holes for their reception. If the bed has 
been made in a place with a sufficiently high and steady tempera- 
ture, there is nothing further to be done but to wait until the 
Mushrooms appear. But if it has been made in the open air, or 
in a place exposed to a change of temperature, it should be covered 
with straw, long manure, or hay, which will serve to confine a 
certain amount of uniformly warm air around the bed. 

If the work has been properly done, and the conditions are 

favourable, the spawn should 
commence to grow in seven or 
eight days after it was placed 
in the bed. At the end of that 
time the beds should be ex- 
amined, and any pieces which 
have not germinated should be 
replaced by fresh ones. The 
failure of a piece to germinate 
is indicated by the absence 
of white threads from the manure which surrounds it. In a 
fortnight or three weeks after spawning, the spawn should have 
permeated the entire bed, and should begin to show itself at 
the surface. 

When this is accomplished, the pieces of spawn should be with- 




Mushroom Spawn in Clumps. 



444 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



drawn, or they would become mouldy and spoil the Mushrooms in 
their immediate vicinity. The empty openings should be closed by 
gentle pressure, the surface made smooth again, and the surround- 
ing place carefully swept and cleaned of all decaying matter. The 
top and sides of the bed should then be covered with a thin layer 
of soil, for which a light mould should be used, slightly moistened, 
but not too wet. If possible use virgin soil of a light nature and 
containing some lime, or old plaster finely crushed, sieved, and 
mixed with quarry sand. If the material chosen does not itself 
contain saltpetre, give a watering with a weak solution of this or 
liquid manure. The soil should not be thicker than about J in., 
and should be pressed down sufficiently to make it adhere firmly 
to the surface of the bed in every part. When the surface becomes 
dry, light waterings should be given sparingly. If the place is 




Mushroom-bed in the Open Air, protected with Straw. 



inclined to be dry, the surrounding soil or walls may be sprinkled 
with water to help maintain the bed in a permanent state of moderate 
moisture. Where a overing of litter or hay has been removed to 
perform any operatic , it must be replaced at once. 

In a few weeks a ' the layer of soil has been added, sooner or 
later according to th uperature, the Mushrooms begin to appear, 
and, in gathering th are should be taken to fill the cavities left 
with the same soil ' h covers the bed. All injured or diseased 
Mushrooms should - t once removed, together with the soil 
adhering to them. 

The bed will of it ^if continue to yield for two or three months, 
and for a longer tii J if watered with liquid manure, guano, or 
saltpetre ; the results being much better if the liquid is of the 
temperature of from 20° to 30° C, or 70° to 86° Fahr., when 
applied. Watering, however, should be done carefully, so as not 



MUSHROOMS 



445 



to dirty the Mushrooms or interfere with their growth. By 
making three or four beds under cover in the year, a continuous 
supply may be secured ; and besides, during summer, beds may 
be made in the open air, which will yield abundantly at a 
trifling expense. Hot-beds, in which other plants are grown, 
might have their sides and the spaces between the plants 
spawned, and would often yield well, provided their temperature 
was suitable for the purpose, and that care was taken to protect 
the young Mushrooms with a slight covering of soil as soon as 
they commenced to grow. 

The very interesting Paris culture of Mushrooms is fully 
described, and illustrated with a variety of original woodcuts, 
in " The Parks and Gardens of Paris," second edition ; and the 
English market-garden culture is fully treated of in Shaw's 
London Market-Gardens." 

Mushroom spawn produced by the old methods was apt to 
degenerate. Some Mushroom growers to counteract this obtained 
virgin spawn from spores born in farmyard manure heaps that had 
remained long undisturbed ; but owing to the diversity of varieties 
and differences in the cultural value of spawn thus obtained, it failed 
to give satisfaction. 

All attempts at raising virgin spawn by sowing the spores of 
the best Mushrooms were fruitless until, in 1897, Dr. Repin, after 
numerous attempts, discovered a way of producing virgin spawn. 
This virgin spawn, now manufactured by Messrs. Vilmorin- 
Andrieux et Cie. in their laboratory by Dr. Repin's process, is 
characterised by great vigour of growth, and,, being raised from 
spores of the healthiest Mushrooms only, is entirely free from 
the noxious bacterial organisms so prevalent in spawn not 
sterilised by the new process, and is therefore not so liable 
to be attacked by diseases — a fact which removes one great 
hindrance to Mushroom growing. The virj, in spawn is sold in 
the form of compressed slabs or tablets, of handy size, thoroughly 
pervaded by the spores. One hundred tablets weigh about eighteen 
pounds. 

Before using the tablets they should b' svived, i.e. slightly 
moistened on both sides, and laid out in a t, moderately warm 
place, i.e. on the prepared beds themselve^t between two beds. 
In five or eight days the tablets should be i] [ for use ; they will 
then have an unctuous and fatty touch -^f . 3ssed between the 
fingers, as also the smell of Mushrooms . nail portion of the 
inside is laid bare. Each tablet should thci be split into two or 
three pieces, each piece being used separa- y and set into the 
bed in such a manner that the surfape laid open is in contact with 
the prepared manure. A rapid and even growth of the spawn 
through the whole bed is thus secured. 



446 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



MUSTARD (WHITE or SALAD) 

Sinapis alba, L. Cruciferce. 

French, Moutarde blanche. Ger?nan, Gelber Senf. Flemish, Witte mostaard. Dutch, 
Gele mosterd or mostaard. Italian, Senapa bianca. Spanish, Mostaza blanca. 

Native of Europe. — Annual. — A plant of rapid growth. Stem 
thick, often angular, branching, bearing incised leaves with rounded 
segments ; flowers yellow, in terminal spikes ; seed-vessels slightly 
hairy, terminating in a flat, membranous kind of beak, and swollen 
at the sides over the seeds. There are usually from three to four 
seeds in each side of the silique or pod, which is divided into two 
parts by a thin membranous partition. The seeds are white, quite 
spherical, and about the size of a Millet-secd. Their germinating 
power lasts for four years. The seed may be sown in pots, either 
in the open air or in a frame, and is cut as soon as the seed-leaves 
are well grown and of a good green, which is usually about six or 
eight days after the seed is sown. The leaves of this plant are 
generally only sent to table while they are quite young, when they 
are used in salads and for garnishing. 

MUSTARD (BLACK, BROWN, or GROCER'S) 

Brassica nigra^ Koch ; Sinapis nigra, L. Cruciferce. 

French, Moutarde noire. German, Schwarzer oder Brauner Senf. Flemish, Zwarte 
mostaard. Dutch, Bruine mosterd or mostaard. Spanish, Mostaza negra. 

Native of Europe. — Annual. — A plant with a rather slender 
stem. Radical leaves oblong, lyrate ; stem-leaves becoming 
narrower as they approach the top of the stem ; flowers yellow, 
in terminal spikes ; siliques or seed-vessels long and slender, each 
containing about twenty small, almost spherical, red-brown seeds. 
The germinating power of the latter lasts for four years. 

The Large-seeded Black Mustard is remarkable for the large 
size of its yellow-green leaves. The Small-seeded Black Mustard 
of Sicily appears to come nearer the wild form of the plant. Its 
leaves are about one-third smaller than those of the Alsace variety, 
and are also a darker green. 

Like the White Mustard, this plant is only grown in kitchen- 
gardens for the sake of its young leaves, which are similarly used, 
and it is grown in precisely the same way. The ground seeds 
form the mustard of commerce or grocer's mustard. 

CHINESE CABBAGE-LEAVED MUSTARD 

Native of China. — Annual. — A large plant, attaining the 
height of from 4 to 5 ft. when in flower. Radical leaves very 



CHINESE CABBAGE-LEAVED MUSTARD 447 




Chinese Cabbage-leaved Mustard 
natural size). 



large, often 14 to 16 in. long, lyrate, undulating in outline, and 
with the edges often turned in underneath. The blade of the 
leaf is of a delicate or yellowish green colour, and netted, and 
sometimes almost crimped 
like that of a Savoy Cab- 
bage. The first leaves, which 
are produced on the lower 
part of the stem, are also 
long and wide, but those 
higher up become smaller, 
until they are almost linear 
near the top of the stem 
when the plant is in flower, 
being a little broader at the 
base which clasps the stem. 
Flowers yellow, broad, in 
terminal clusters ; siliques 
almost cylindrical, each con- 
taining about twenty brown 
seeds, a little larger than 
those of the Black Mustard. 
The germinating power of the seed lasts for four years. The 
seed is sown, where the crop is to stand, in August, in the open 
air, either in beds or in drills from 16 to 20 in. apart. After 
sowing, the beds or drills should be watered a few times to ensure 

germination, but when the 
cool nights of September 
arrive, the plants will re- 
quire no further attention. 
In about six weeks from 
the time of sowing, the 
leaves may commence to 
be gathered, and the plants 
will continue to yield until 
very frosty weather sets 
in. The seed may also 
be sown immediately after 
winter, but the plants soon 
run to seed, and never 
yield as fine leaves as those 
which are sown in autum.n. 
The leaves are eaten like 
Spinach. They do not 
lose much in substance by cooking, and they have a very 
agreeable flavour. In warm countries they are highly esteemed 
among green vegetables. 




Chinese Tuberous-rooted Mustard. 



448 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Chinese Curled Mustard. — A curious variety of the Cabbage- 
leaved Chinese Mustard. It has the good qualities of the type, 




Chinese Curled Mustard. 



and its elegant foliage is very useful for garnishing. The uses and 
the culture are the same as for the type. 



NASTURTIUM, or INDIAN CRESS (TALL or LARGE) 



Tropceolum majus, L. TropceolacecB. 

French, Capucine grande. German, Kapuciner Kresse, Flemish and Dutch, Capucien- 
kers. Italian, Nasturzio maggiore. Spanish, Capuchina grande. Portuguese, 

Chagas. 

Native of Peru. — Annual. — Stems 
climbing, sometimes nearly lo ft. 
long when they find a suitable 
support ; leaves alternate, long- 
stalked, peltate, entire or bluntly 
five-lobed, almost smooth ; flowers 
long-stalked, large, with five orange- 
coloured petals spotted with purple, 
especially the two upper ones ; seeds 
large, triangular, almost kidney- 
shaped, convex on one side, furrowed 
and wrinkled, and yellow-coloured. 
Their germinating power lasts for 
five years. The plant flowers con- 
'''S:^^i^'r^^lx5::T^^^^^ tmuously almost all through the 

flower, \ natural size). summer. 




NASTURTIUM (DWARF) 



449 



NASTURTIUM (DWARF) 



Trop(Eolu7n minus^ L. Tropceolacece. 

French^ Capucine petite. German^ Kleine Indianische Kresse. Italian, Nasturzio 
caramindo minora. Spanish, Capuchina pequena. 

Native of Peru. — Annual. — A smaller plant than the preceding 
kind ; the stem not so slender and not requiring support ; leaves 
nearly round ; flowers yellow, with five petals, the three lower ones 
especially marked with a purple spot ; seeds of the same shape as 

that of the Tall Nasturtium, but usually 
smaller, more wrinkled, and browner. 
Their germinating power lasts for five 
years. Sometimes dwarf varieties of 
the Tall Nasturtiums are confounded 
with this species. 

The culture of Nasturtiums is of 
the simplest. If sown during spring 
and summer in the open ground where 
the plants are to stand, they flower and 
seed profusely in about two or three 
months after sowing. The flowers are 
used for garnishing salads. The flower- 
buds and the seeds, while young and 
tender, are pickled in vinegar and used 
for seasoning, like Capers. For this 
latter purpose the Dwarf Nasturtium is to be preferred, as it 
flowers more abundantly than the Tall kind, and does not require 
stakes or any other kind of support. 




Nasturtium (Dwarf) (j^ natural 
size ; detached flower, \ natural 
size). 



NASTURTIUM (TUBEROUS-ROOTED) 

TropcBolum tuberosum^ R. and P. Tropceolacece, 

French, Capucine tubereuse. German, Peruanische Knollen-Kresse. Flef?tishy 
Knoll-kapucien. Spanish, Capuchina tuberculosa. 

Native of South America. — Perennial. — Roots tuberous, conical, 
as large as a hen's egg, with scale-like swellings, yellow in 
colour, striped with red, and pleasing in appearance ; stems 
very branching, weak, about 3 ft. long ; leaves peltate, divided 
into three or five blunt lobes ; leaf-stalks red ; flowers medium- 
sized, with a long spur and rather small petals of a yellow 
colour shaded with orange. The seeds seldom ripen in the 
climate of Paris, and the plant is propagated from the tubers. 

29 



450 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The tubers are planted in April or May, in the open ground, 
20 in. apart in every direction. The hoe should be used occa- 
sionally until the stems, spreading on the 
ground, cover it entirely. The tubers 
should not be taken up for use before 
the latter end of autumn, after the early 
frosts, as they do not form until late in 
the season, and are not affected by frost 
as long as they remain in the ground. 
When boiled like Carrots or Potatoes, 
the tubers are watery and rather un- 
pleasant to taste, although the perfume 
is agreeable. In Bolivia, where the plant 
is much cultivated in high mountain 
districts, the people freeze the tubers after 
boiling them, and they are then con- 
sidered a delicacy and are largely con- 
sumed. In other places they are eaten 
in a half-dried state, after having been 
hung up in nets and exposed to the air 
for some time. 




Nasturtium (Tuberous-rooted) 
(tubers ^ natural size). 



BLACK-BERRIED NIGHTSHADE 

Solanum nigrum, L. SolanacecB. 

Frenchy Morelle noire. German, Nachtschatten-Spinat. Italian, Erba mora. 
Spanish, Yerba mora. 

Native of Europe. — Annual. — A well - known wild plant, 
generally regarded as a 
weed, growing most usually 
near dwelling-houses and 
in cultivated ground. It 
has an erect branching 
stem from i J to 2 J ft. long, 
with simple, broad, oval 
leaves, often wavy at the 
edges. Flowers white, star- 
shaped, growing in small 
axillary clusters, and suc- 
ceeded by round berries, 
about the size of a pea, of 
a black or, rarely, amber- 
yellow colour, and filled 
with a green pulp, mixed 
with very small pale- 
yellow lenticular seeds. 

The germinating power of Black-berried Nightshade. 




BLACK-BERRIED NIGHTSHADE 



451 



the latter lasts for five years. The kind which is cultivated in 
the Isle of France, under the name of Brede, does not differ, 
botanically, from the common kind, but is more vigorous growing 
and larger in all its parts. The seed is sown where the plants 
are to stand, in April, in beds, or, preferably, in drills 12 to 14 in. 
apart. After being thinned out, the plants require no further 
attention, and are quite proof against dry weather. The leaves, 
however, are more tender and more plentifully produced if the 
plants are occasionally well watered when they appear to need it. 
This plant is not as yet used in France as a vegetable, but in 
warm countries the leaves are sometimes eaten as Spinach, and 
apparently without any injurious result, although the plant belongs 
to the dangerous family of the SolanacecB. 



MALABAR NIGHTSHADE (WHITE) 

Basella alba, L. Chenopodiacece. 

French, Baselle blanche. German, Indischer griiner Spinat. Flemish, Meier. Italian, 
Basella. Spanish, Basela. 

Native of the East Indies. — Biennial, but cultivated as an 
annual. — A plant with creeping stems from 4 to over 6 ft. long, 
bearing alternate, oval-heart-shaped, slightly undulated, fleshy, 

green leaves. Flowers small, green or 
red, in spikes ; seeds round, bearing 
the remnants of the pistil and calyx, 
which are persistent. Their germi- 
nating power lasts for five years at 
least. 

Culture. — The seed is sown in 
a hot-bed in March. In the end of 
May, or early in June, the seedlings 
are planted out at the foot of a south 
wall, and the plants will yield all 
through the summer without any care 
except occasional waterings. 

Uses. — The leaves are eaten like 
Spinach, and are abundantly produced 
all through the summer, growing in 
greater profusion the warmer the 
weather becomes. Care should be taken 
not to strip a plant of all its leaves at 
once, as this checks its growth. 
Basella Cordifolia.— This is much like the Malabar variety, but 
has larger, stouter, and darker green leaves; it is also more productive. 
The culture and the uses are the same in both. An excellent 
substitute for Spinach in hot climates during the dry summers. 




Malabar Nightshade (White) 
(^^V natural size). 



452 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



OKA-PLANT 

Oxalis crenata, J acq. Oxalidacece. 

French, Oxalis crenelee. Flejiiish^ Zuerklaver. Spanish {American), Oka. 

Native of Peru. — Perennial, but cultivated as an 'annual. — Stem 
fleshy, red, prostrate, bearing very numerous leaves, composed of 
three rounded triangular thick leaflets ; flowers axillary, with five 
yellow petals striped with purple at the base ; tubers swollen, long 
ovoid, marked with hollows and protuberances (like some kinds of 
Potatoes, especially the Vitelotte variety), and narrowed at the end 
which joins the stem ; skin very smooth, and of a yellow, white, or 
red colour. 

Culture. — The Oka-plant is easily propagated from the 
tubers, which are planted in May, in light rich soil, in rows 
which should not be less than 3 ft. apart, on account of the 

spreading growth of the 
stems of the plant. As 
it continues to grow for 
a long time and is very 
sensitive to cold, it is 
better, if possible, to start 
the tubers in a hot-bed in 
March, and plant them 
out in May, at which 
time they will be pretty 

Tubers of Oka-plant {\ natural size). forward. As the Stems 

lengthen, they should be 
covered with light soil or compost, in order to promote the 
formation of nev/ tubers, taking care to leave 6 or 8 in. of the 
end of the stem uncovered. The tubers do not commence to 
swell until rather late in the season, and are not gathered until 
the ends of the stems have been killed by frosty weather. In 
France they seldom grow as large as a hen's egg. 

Uses. — The tubers are highly esteemed in Peru and Bolivia, 
where they are largely used. Recently gathered, they have a very 
acid, and not very agreeable, taste. In South America they get rid 
of this acidity by putting tubers into woollen bags and exposing 
them to the action of the sun, the effect of which is that in a few 
days they become floury and sweet. If they are kept thus exposed 
for several weeks, they dry up, become wrinkled, and acquire a 
flavour which resembles that of dried Figs. In this condition they 
are known by the name CaiiH' In addition to the tubers, the 
leaves and young shoots may be eaten as salad or as Sorrel. 

Two varieties of this plant have been introduced into France, 
namely, the Yellow and the Red, differing from each other only in 
the colour of the tubers. The Yellow variety has spontaneously 




OKA-PLANT 



453 



produced a sub-variety, with pure white tubers, which reproduces 
itself exactly, but appears to be inferior to the other two kinds in 
vigour and quality for table use. 



OKRA, or GOMBO 

Hibiscus esculentus, L. MalvacecB. 

French, Gombo. Italian^ Ibisco. Spanish, Gombo ; (^American), Quimbombo. 

Native of South America. — Annual. — Stem stout, erect, 
branching but little or not at all, from 20 in. to over 3 ft. high, 
according to the variety ; leaves very large, five-lobed, toothed, 
dark green on the upper surface, slightly gray underneath, with 
very prominent veins ; flowers solitary in the axils of the leaves, 
wath five straw-coloured petals, brown or violet in the centre ; 
fruit pyramidal, ending in a point, with five prominent ribs, and 

divided into five cells or 
compartments filled with 
rather large gray or pale 
green seeds, nearly spheri- 
cal in shape and rough 
skinned. The germinating 
power of the latter lasts 
for five years. 

Culture. — Like the 
Egg-plant and the Tomato, 
the Gombo requires arti- 
ficial heat in the climate 
of Paris, while in warmer 
climates it may be sown 
and grown in the open air. 
The seed is usually sown 
in a hot-bed in February, 
the seedlings are pricked 
out into another hot-bed, 
and are finally planted out 
in May, after which the 
plants only require plenti- 
ful watering to attain their 
full growth. 

Uses. — In the Colonies 
the young and tender seed-vessels are very extensively used as a 
table vegetable. They are exceedingly mucilaginous, and when 
cut into thin slices are made into soups and sauces, which are 
highly esteemed by the Creoles. The ripe seeds also are parched 
and used instead of Coffee. The infusion which is obtained from 




Long-fruited Green Okra (seed-vessels 
\ natural size). 



454 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



them is not inferior to that made from Chicory, Sweet Acorns, 
Astragalus bcstzcus, and other substitutes for Coffee. 

Long-fruited Green Okra.— Stem short, seldom exceeding 
20 in. in height ; leaves very deeply cut ; seed-vessels 6 to 8 in. 
long, slender, long, pointed, and about i in. in diameter. This is 
the kind most commonly cultivated. There is a sub-variety in 
which the seed-vessels are pendent. 

Dwarf Prolific Okra.— Much grown in America, it is a small- 
fruited sub-variety of the preceding one, and both early and 
productive. 

Round-fruited Okra. — Seed-vessels short and thick, being 
about 2 in. long, and nearly 2 in. in diameter, and blunt at the ends 
rather than pointed. This variety is dwarfer and earlier than the 
preceding kind. 

Early Sultani Okra.— Produces a number of short, thick fruit, 
very like those of the preceding. 

White Velvet Okra. — The American variety known by this 
name is distinguished by its fruit, which is white, long, and 
fairly large. 

ONION 

Allium Cepa^ L. Liliacece. 

French, Ognon. German, Zwiebel. Fleviish, Ajuin. Dutch, Uijen. Danish, Rodlog. 
Italian, Cipolla. Spanish, Cebolla. Portuguese, Cebola. 

Native of Central or Western Asia. — Biennial, sometimes 
perennial. — The original native country of the Onion is not known 
with certainty ; within the last few years, however, M. Regel, jun., 
discovered, south of Kouldja, in Turkestan, a plant which had every 
appearance of being the wild form of Allium Cepa, and we believe 
the same plant has also been found on the Himalayas. 

The Onion has no stem, or rather the stem is reduced to a 
mere plate, from which issue, on the lower side, numerous white, 
thick, simple roots, and on the upper side leaves, the fleshy, swollen, 
and overlapping bases of which form the bulb of the Onion. The 
form, colour, and size of the bulb are very much varied in different 
varieties of the plant. The free portion of the leaves is elongated, 
hollow, and tapering into a point at the end. The flower-stems, 
which are very much longer than the leaves, are erect, hollow, 
and swollen in the lower part for about one-third of their length. 
The flowers, which are white or lilac, are severally borne on very 
slender stalks, and are collected in a very dense spherical head 
on the top of the flower-stem. Sometimes, instead of flowers, a 
head of small bulbs is produced. This may occur exceptionally 
in any of the varieties, but is an invariable characteristic of the 
Tree Onion, which is thence named the Bulbiferous Onion. The 



ONION 



455 



flowers are succeeded by capsules of an almost triangular shape, 
filled with black, angular, flattish seeds. The germinating power 
of the latter lasts for two years. 

Usually, the plant, after seeding, dies and disappears entirely ; 
but sometimes we find Onions which produce cloves as well as 
seeds. Such plants may be considered perennial, as well as the 
Potato Onion, which never seeds and is propagated by division of 
its bulbs. 

The culture and use of the Onion date back to a very remote 
period of antiquity. The strong odour and flavour of all parts of 
the plant caused it to be valued in very early times as a seasoning, 
and being easily grown, man has carried it with him into almost 
every climate of the world. Hence a great number of varieties 
have resulted, the best of which have become fixed, and form the 
various kinds which are now in cultivation. 

Culture. — The Onion, considered only with a view to the 
production of bulbs for household consumption, is generally grown 
as an annual plant, whether sown for a summer crop or sown in 
autumn. For a summer crop, the seed is sown in spring, and the 
crop is gathered at the end of summer or in autumn. In this case, 
the entire growth of the plant is completed in the course of the 
same year. This mode of culture is the general one in the central 
and northern districts of France, where Onions are grown very 
extensively and as a field crop. The seed is sown in the latter part 
of February, or in March, in good, moist, but well-drained soil, 
which has been well manured and well pulverised at the surface, 
and at the same time is somewhat firm and compact underneath. 
The seed, being rather small, should be only slightly covered. In 
gardens, Onion-beds, after being sown, are often simply strewn with 
leaf-mould or with grape skins from the wine-presses. When the 
seedlings have grown pretty strong, they are thinned out more or 
less, according to the size of the variety, and after that require no 
further attention until they are fully grown. Watering is not 
necessary except in unusually dry weather. 

When the seed is sown in autumn, the growth of the plants is 
continued from one year into the next. This mode of culture is 
most common in districts where the winter is mild, as in the west 
and all through the south of France. The seed is sown from 
August to October, and the young plants are planted out either in 
the course of the same autumn or as soon as the winter is over. 
This way of growing Onions is not so simple as that first mentioned, 
but the crop is finer and earlier. It is generally practised, as we 
have just said, in southern districts, and it is in this way that the 
enormous Onions which are sent during winter to our markets from 
Spain, Italy, and Africa are raised. At Paris, too, it is almost the 
only way in which the Early White Silver-skinned Onion is grown. 



456 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



This is sown in August or September, and the seedlings are 
generally pricked out in October (the roots and leaves being 
trimmed at the same time), and they are slightly sheltered during 
the winter when the frost is severe. The bulbs are fit for use in 
May. By sowing the New Queen variety in the same way, a crop 
could, no doubt, be obtained in April. 

Sometimes the Onion is grown as a biennial — that is, its culture 
extends over nearly two whole years. In this case, the growth is 
retarded by planting out, not young seedlings, but small bulbs 
raised the year before by sowing very thickly in spring and growing 
them on like summer Onions, but without thinning them. These 
small bulbs, which are about as big as a Hazel-nut, easily keep 
through the winter, and when planted out in spring increase in 
size rapidly, and in a few months become as fine bulbs as those 
obtained from plants grown on through the winter in the usual 
way. This mode of culture was recommended a very long time 
ago by MM. Lebrun and Nouvellon, who applied it to Onions of 
every kind. At the present day it is generally practised, especially 
in the east of France, with a yellow variety, the small bulbs of 
which form an important article of commerce, under the name of 
Mulhouse Onions. When the bulbs of this variety are fully 
grown, it is very difficult to distinguish them from those of the 
Strasburg Onion. The Brown Portugal Onion may also be grown 
in the same way. 



For good Onions there is always 
a large demand, and late in the 
season they fetch high prices. In 
nearly all market - gardens round 
London, Onions are grown to a 
large extent both as summer and 
winter crops. In the neighbourhood 
of Lea Bridge large fields are devoted 
to them, and from this district come 
large quantities of the finest produce 
brought to market. Great breadths 
of Onions are also grown at Fulham, 
Chiswick, Deptford, and Mitcham, 
the land thereabouts being light and 
rich and well suited for their cul- 
ture. The main spring sowing, 
which consists usually of the Dept- 
ford and Reading varieties, is made 
as soon after the middle of February 
as the condition of the soil and 
weather permits. If the seed be 
good and is sown broadcast, nine 
to twelve pounds per acre are used ; 



but if sown in lines, only eight 
pounds to the acre are needed- 
Land intended for Onions is gene- 
rally roughly trenched during winter 
and thrown into ridges, so as to 
become thoroughly pulverised and 
sweetened by the action of the frosL 
During dry weather in February the 
ridges are levelled and the surface 
rendered smooth by raking and roll- 
ing, after which the seed is sown 
either broadcast or in drills 9 to 
I o in. apart. If small pickling bulbs 
be desired, seed is sown broadcast 
at the rate of twenty pounds per 
acre. After sowing, the seed is raked 
or harrowed in, and the operation 
is completed by rolling the surface 
firm and even. After the young 
Onions appear above the ground, 
weeding and thinning are proceeded 
with as may be required. Broad- 
cast sowing is considered the best 



ONION 



457 



for spring-sown crops, as involving 
less labour ; and as the bulbs, after 
thinning, stand at regular distances 
apart over the whole area, the pro- 
duce per acre is considerably more 
than when sown in beds or lines. 
Seed sown in the autumn is, how- 
ever, sometimes drilled on beds 4 or 

5 ft. wide, these being divided by 
narrow alleys, which serve as walks 
for labourers who weed the beds 
and draw the crop as required for 
market ; but this crop is also often 
sown broadcast. 

Onion seed takes a long time 
to germinate, but if the ground be 
clean and well tilled, weeds will not 
appear much sooner than the Onions, 
or, at least, not so thickly as to 
choke them. As soon as the Onions 
have fairly come up, women or men 
accustomed to Onion-cleaning are 
set to work amongst them. These 
operators are furnished with short- 
handled 2|-inch wide hoes, with 
which they hoe down the weeds and 
thin the whole crop with wonder- 
ful certainty and expedition. The 
field is marked off into strips for 
the guidance of the hoers, to each 
one of whom there is a space of 

6 ft. given, so that were four cleaners 
employed the strips would each be 
24 ft. wide. People accustomed to 
this work do not trample carelessly 
about ; nor, indeed, can the crop be 
materially damaged by doing so, for 
the Onions that are thus prostrate 
to-day are nearly erect to-morrow. 
Each plantation is generally cleaned 
by this means three times during 
the season, the last cleaning being 
made about the end of June or early 
in July, and any large weeds that 
appear after that time are pulled out 
by the hand. Towards the end of 
August or early in September the 
Onions, being ripe, are harvested 
when dry. Those that are green 
and thick-necked are laid aside for 



immediate sale; but the firm and 
sound bulbs, particularly of the 
Deptford kind, are either cleaned 
of any loose scaly skins and spread 
out a few inches deep over the floor 
of a loft, or tied into bunches and 
strung in pairs over poles or pegs in 
a loft or shed, so that they can be 
marketed at any convenient season 
during winter and spring. 

The profits on a good crop of 
spring-sown Onions are remunera- 
tive, although they vary in some 
seasons. Sometimes as much as 
;£"45 per acre is made of them by 
the grower, the purchaser being at 
the expense of harvesting the crop. 
At other times, however, ;^3o per 
acre is considered a good price. 
The Silver-skinned Onion, which is 
grown largely for pickling, is sown 
on good land, the • plants being left 
as thickly as they come up, as the 
closer they are together the sooner 
they will cease growing in summer 
and the better they will ripen their 
bulbs. Good clean bulbs realise 
from 8^. to los. per bushel in the 
market. The autumn sowing of 
Onions is made on ground cleared 
of Cauliflowers, Cabbages, or other 
early crops, in the end of July 
for drawing in a young state from 
September onwards, but the main 
sowing is not made till about the 
middle of August. The autumn 
sowings are, as a rule, made in beds 
about 5 ft. wide, and the seeds are 
covered deeper than those of the 
spring sowings. They are not often 
made broadcast on fields, as they 
must be weeded, not hoed, in 
the process of cleaning ; the hoeing 
would thin them too much. As 
they are only required for drawing 
when young they do not need to be 
more than one-third of the distance 
asunder required in the case of the 
summer Onions. They are weeded 
soon after they come up, and once, 



458 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



or perhaps twice, during the winter 
time. The weeding is done by 
women in dry weather, each woman 
taking with her a small round basket 
to put the weeds into, rather than 
throw them on the alleys. In 
marketing these Onions they are 
cleared off the beds in large patches, 
and not by picking out the strongest 
and leaving the weakest, as is gene- 
rally done ; and they are washed, 
which makes them look white. If 
a portion be intended for trans- 
planting, a piece of well-prepared 
rich ground is made ready for them, 
rolled firmly, and lined off into rows 
about 9 in. apart, and into these 
lines the young plants are dibbled 
about 6 in. apart. These make 
large saleable bulbs early in July. 
The kinds used for autumn sowings 
consist of White Spanish, White 



Tripoli or Lisbon. Some growers 
save large quantities of Onion seed, 
for which purpose well-formed bulbs 
are selected and planted in spring 
in rows which vary from 2 to 6 ft. 
apart. Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, or 
other low-growing vegetables being 
grown as intermediate crops. After 
the flower-stems make their appear- 
ance they are staked at intervals, 
and twine or cord is strained on 
either side the rows to prevent the 
stems being beaten down by hail, 
rain, or wind. Ordinary Onion seed 
fetches from 2s. to 55*. per lb., 
according to the season ; but the 
best seed, or that from improved 
or rare sorts, is more valuable. In 
Hertfordshire large breadths of seed 
Onions may be seen in July, and on 
good deep land it is considered one 
of the most profitable of crops. * 



Uses. — The bulbs are eaten boiled, raw, or pickled with 
vinegar. 

Small White Extra Early Barletta Onion. — Bulbs very 
rapidly ; it is, in fact, the earliest of all Onions. Sown in the spring, 
it roots within two months. The roots are large enough for 





Small White Early Barletta Onion. 



New Queen Onion natural size). 



pickles and even for kitchen use. The bulbs are white, small, 
shaped like the White Lisbon Onion, flat on top and rather conical 
at the bottom. 

* Onions for Exhibition, see p. 763. Onion Fly see p. 777. 



ONION 



459 




Early White Nocera Onion natural si/e). 



New Queen Onion. — Bulb small, very much flattened, silvery 
white from i|- to if in. in diameter, and from | to 4 of an inch thick ; 
neck fine, soon becoming green, if the bulbs are stored in the 
expectation that they will keep ; leaves very short, dark, slightly 
glaucous green, three or four, or at most five, in number when the 
plant is fully grown. It is 
not unusual to find, amongst 
plants sown in spring, some 
bulbs growing as large as 
walnuts, and ripening without 
forming more than two leaves. 
This variety is an exceedingly 
early one. If sown in March, 
the bulbs begin to swell in the 
course of the following May ; 
but, on the other hand, it is 
not at all a productive kind, nor does it keep well. 

Early White Nocera Onion. — This variety is probably only 
a form of the preceding one which has been so modified by long- 
continued cultivation in a colder climate than that of its native 
district, as to have become larger in size and a little later in coming 
to maturity. Bulb silvery white, flattened, broader and flatter than 
that of the preceding kind, being from 2 to over 3 in. in diameter, 
and from -| to i in. thick ; neck fine ; leaves few, dark green. In 
spite of every care taken in the selection of plants for seed, a small 
percentage of light brown or chamois-coloured bulbs will almost 
always be produced. It is a very early kind, but at least three 

weeks later than the New 
Queen Onion, and, like 
that variety, keeps badly. 

Early Paris Silver- 
skinned Onion. — Bulb 
silvery white, flattened, 
and of about the same 
diameter as that of the 
preceding kind — that is, 
from 2 to over 3 in. — 
but thicker, and formed 
of more numerous and 
more closely set coats ; 
neck fine ; leaves of a 
rather deep, slightly glaucous, green, and not numerous. This 
vai-iety is not so early as the preceding one, but keeps better ; yet 
the bulbs are almost always sent to table quite fresh, and most 
frequently befoi^ they are fully grown. It is one of the best early 
Onions, and very probably originated from one of the early South 




Early Paris Silver-skinned Onion Q natural size). 



460 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Italian varieties, which, when grown in the cHmate of Paris, exhibit 
a tendency to become identical with this variety. 

Early White Valence Onion.— Bulb not so broad as that of 
the preceding kind, but thicker and larger, being less than 3 in. in 

diameter, and from if to 
2 in. thick ; leaves rather 
numerous, of a yellow- 
green colour. This variety 
is rather early and pro- 
ductive, and the bulbs are 
tender, but do not keep 
well. It is more suitable 
for the southern than for 
the northern parts of 
France. As regards its 
origin, it is more likely 
that it is a smaller and 
earlier form of the White 




Early White Valence Onion (-^ natural size) 



Lisbon Onion than that it has sprung from any of the kinds which 
have been previously described. 

White Round Dutch Onion. — Bulb a dull white, medium-sized, 
very firm, with thick tough coats, and varying from 2 to nearly 3 in. 
in diameter, and from li to if in. in thickness. It is not so much 
flattened as that of either the Early White Nocera or the Early 
Paris Silver-skinned Onion, and is also somewhat later than these 
varieties, but, on the other hand, it 
keeps remarkably well. In this re- 
spect it will bear comparison with 
the good yellow or red varieties of 
Onions. It is distinguished from the 
white varieties hitherto described by 
the outer coats of the bulb being 
firm and tough, instead of being of 
a delicate, brittle, and almost trans- 
parent texture. In consequence of 
this peculiarity the bulbs keep better, 
and are never disfigured by the 
greenish tinge which exposure to 
the sun often produces on the bulbs 
of the very early white varieties 
of Onions. The American White 
Po7'tugal^ or American Silver-skin, 
Onion is so much like the White Round Hard Dutch Onion that 
some consider the two to be identical. The White Portugal, 
however, has generally the bulbs larger and more regular, though 
not so firm as the Dutch variety. 




White Round Dutch Onion 
(•J natural size). 



ONION 




White Globe Onion, 



White Globe, or Southport White, Onion.— Bulb silvery white, 
almost exactly spherical, with a diameter of from 2f to 3|- in. every 
Avay, very firm, with a fine neck, and keeping remarkably well; 
leaves dark green, slender, 
and rather numerous. 
This variety is about as 
early as the White Lisbon. 

Neapolitan Maggio- 
jola White Onion.— An 
early and very large kind. 
Bulb silvery white, 4 or 
5 in. in diameter, and 
about 2 in. thick ; flesh 
tender; neck rather stout; 
leaves numerous, and of 
a peculiar light tint. This 
variety derives its name 
from the circumstance that 
in Italy it attains its full 

growth in the month of May, but it does not do so in France 
until August. However, it is a comparatively early kind, con- 
sidering its large size and great productiveness. It does not 
keep well. 

White Lisbon Onion. — Bulb round, more or less flattened, 
sometimes irregular in shape, 3 to 4 in. in diameter when well grown, 
and from about 2 to over 3 in. thick, often slightly pear-shaped in 
the lower part ; neck rather thick ; leaves numerous, and yellow- 
green. The flesh is not very firm, and, although it ripens rather 
late, this variety does not keep very well. It is most usually 
sent to table fresh from the ground, even in the south of France. 
In England it is grown in immense quantities for use while 

quite young and hardly formed, the 
bulbs being scarcely larger than a 
Walnut. 

Large White Flat Italian 
Tripoli Onion.— It is rather difficult 
to procure this variety perfectly 
true to name, and it does not appear 
to be very extensively grown, even 
in Italy. It is in all points an 
exaggerated form of the Maggiojola 
variety, being one-third broader, 
often exceeding 6 in. in transverse 
diameter, with a depth of about 3 in. The neck is thick, and 
the leaves stout and dark green. The coats of the bulb are of 
a pearly white when dried, but more or less green as long as 




"White Lisbon Onion natural size). 



462 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



they retain any moisture. This is a half-late and productive 
variety, and keeps tolerably well. 

Brown Portugal, or Straw-coloured White Spanish, Onion 

{OgJio?z Jaune Faille des Vertus). — Bulb very much flattened, 3 to 

4 in. in diameter, and about 
2 in. thick, of a coppery 
yellow colour, with firm 
thick coats, which do not 
easily come asunder, and 
are deeper coloured in the 
underground part of the 
bulb than in the upper and 
exposed part ; neck rather 
fine; leaves numerous, 
broad and dark green. 
This is a rather early 
and exceedingly productive 
variety, and keeps to per- 
fection. It is the kind most commonly used for field culture 
about Paris, and is grown in very large quantities in the neighbour- 
hood of Saint-Denis, and as far as Normandy. The winter supply of 
Paris and of a great part of Europe consists chiefly of this variety, 
which may be often seen hanging up in dwelling-houses in long hanks 
formed by interlacing and plaiting the withered leaves together. 




Italian Tripoli Onion (i natural sizej. 




Brown Portugal Onion 
natural size). 



Sulphur-coloured White Spanish Onion 
("I natural size). 



Reading-, or Sulphur-coloured White Spanish, Onion.— Bulb 
quite fiat, 3 to 4 in. in diameter, and 2 in. or less thick, very much 
resembling that of the Brown Portugal, or Vertus, Onion, but of a 
far less coppery colour, and very perceptibly not so thick ; coats 
firm, rather thick, very closely set, of a bright, slightly green, almost 



ONION 



463 




Danvers Yellow Onion natural size). 



brazen-yellow ; leaves light green, fairly broad 
mid-season variety, very hardy and 
productive, and keeps remarkably 
well. This is the sort most generally 
grown and cultivated in England. 
There are many varieties of it grown, 
of which Nuneham Park, Banbury 
Improved, Naseby jMammoth, and 
Cantello's Prize are the principal. 

Danvers Yellow Onion. — Bulb 
spherical or slightly flattened, coppery 
yellow, and a little redder than the 
Brown Portugal, or Vertus, Onion, 
usually from 2% to 3^ in. in diameter, 
and nearly the same in thickness ; 
coats numerous and closely set; neck 
very fine, as is also the disc or plate 
from which the roots issue ; leaves 
medium-sized, and light green. This 
is an excellent early kind, and keeps 
very well. It is as well adapted for field culture as for the 
kitchen garden, but should always be sown in spring. When 

sown in autumn, we have always 
found it to run to seed in the 
following spring without bulbing 
to any extent. It is an American 
variety, and when first introduced 
into France (about 1850) was 
quite spherical in shape, but 
now it grows almost always 
more or less flattened, not only 
in European gardens, but also 
in its native country. 

The English and American 
varieties Australian Brown, 
C7'anston's Excelsior, Crews Globe^ 
Golden Ball, Michigan Yellow 
Globe, Up-to-Date, and Yellow 
Globe, some small differences in 
size, colour, and earliness apart, 
may all be considered as de- 
rivations of the Danvers Yellow. 

Yellow Trebons Onion. — 
Bulb usually pear-shaped, more 
or less elongated, about as long 
broad, generally 3 to 4 in. every way, narrowed at the neck, 




Yellow Trebons Onion natural size). 



464 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Giant Zittau Onion natural size). 

Onion. — Bulb large, flattish, 4 
little over 2 in. thick ; 
a pale salmon-colour 



and very often at the other end ; inner coats of a bright yellow 
colour, outer ones of a slightly coppery hue ; neck narrow ; leaves 

numerous, but slender, 
and dark green; flesh 
tender, sweet, and of 
an agreeable mild 
flavour. This is a 
half-late variety, of 
remarkably good 
quality, but rather 
difficult to keep, and 
answers equally well 
for sowing in spring 
or in autumn. It was 
raised in the neigh- 
bourhood of Tarbes 
(Hautes-Pyrenees). 
Giant Zittau 
to nearly 5 in. in diameter, and a 
outer skin very smooth and almost silky, of 
forming the connecting link between the 
yellow-skinned and the pale red-skinned varieties ; leaves pretty 
numerous, of a light, slightly yellow, green ; neck fine, as is also 
the disc, or part from 
which the roots issue. 
This is a fine mid-season 
variety, and is most pro- 
ductive and keeps very 
well. It does best in 
light, well-drained, but at 
the same time rich and 
well-manured soil. 

Giant Spanish, or 
Spanish King, Onion. — 
A large, ahnost round, 
light straw-coloured bulb, 
tender and with very thin 
coats, and about the size 
of an orange. From the 
South of France and 
Algiers it is exported in 
large quantities to Great 
Britain. 

The well-known and 




Giant Spanish, or Spanish King, Onion, 



much-prized American Onion known as the Prizetakej'is so like the 
Giant Spanish Onion that the two may be considered as identical. 



ONION 



465 




Very Early Rose-coloured Port Saintc-Marie Onion. 



James' Keeping Onion. — Bulb top-shaped, flattened on top 
and narrowing into a blunt cone towards the roots ; the neck is 
slender; a very interesting variety of a very pretty chamois or 
salmon colour. Its cnief 
merit is its keeping 
quality, the bulbs of the 
true James' remaining 
firm and solid up to mid- 
summer in the following 
year. 

Very Early Rose- 
coloured Port Sainte- 
Marie Onion. — A small 
flat bulb resembling the 
Queen Onion in shape 
and size, but with rose- 
coloured, sometimes al- 
most red, skin. The 
neck is very small and 
the leaves scanty, and early to die off. Of all coloured onions, 
it is much the earliest, and among the silver-skins it is second 
only to the Early Queen by a few days. It is extensively grown 
and very popular in Southern France. 

Market Favourite Keeping Onion (6>. de Maze). — A very 
pretty Onion of choice quality, which forms with the James' 
Keeping Onion the link between the yellow and the red Onions. 
It is in fact a salmon shade between yellow and rose. In shape, it 
is very different from the James' Onion in being flat. The 
foliage is scant and light. A half-early kind, bulbing rapidly, and 

keeping well. Easy to culti- 
vate, it is a good Onion for 
the kitchen-garden as well as 
for the market-grower. 

Common Pale Red 
Onion. — Bulb medium-sized, 
flattened, 2 to nearly 3 in. 
in diameter, and from |- to 
if in. thick, somewhat irre- 
gular in shape ; outer coats 
coppery pink ; inner ones a 
darker shade, changing to a 
purple ; neck rather thick ; 
leaves pretty numerous, short, 
and light green in colour. This is a hardy variety, and is very 
generally grown. It is a half-early kind, and keeps tolerably 
well, although it readily parts with its outer coats, like the kinds 

30 




Market Favourite Keeping Onion. 



466 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



which start to grow too soon. It is only suitable for spring 
culture. There are very many local forms of it which hardly 
differ from one another. That which is most frequently met 
with in commerce is grown in the neighbourhood of Bourgueil, 
in Touraine. The Pale Red Strasburg, or Dutch, Onzo?i is closely 
allied to the Common Pale Red Onion, differing from it only in 
being a little more coppery in colour, and not quite so much 
flattened in shape. 

Niort Pale Red Onion.— Bulb broad and flat, 3 to 4 in. in 
diameter (sometimes more), and from li to if in. thick, of a pale 
pink, slightly tinged with copper colour, and with some purple on 
the inner coats ; leaves numerous, erect, large, and light green ; 
neck rather fine. The outer coats of the bulb are thin and 




Common Pale Red Onion Niort Pale Red Onion 

(J natural size). natural size). 



brittle, but it keeps well notwithstanding. This is an excellent, 
early, and very productive variety, and is very highly esteemed 
in the west of France. It answers well for sowing in spring, 
but succeeds best in its native district when sown in autumn, 
and transplanted either at the beginning or the end of winter, 
for the winters are mild in Brittany, Vendee, and Poitou, where 
it is chiefly grown. 

The Lencloitre Onion, a great favourite in Poitou, is only a 
form of the present variety which has a somewhat flatter and 
harder bulb. 

The Saijzt-Brieuc Pale Red Onion differs from the Xiort variety 
in having the bulb not so much flattened, yellower and less tinged 
with red. It is also not so hardy. Of the two varieties the Niort 
is preferable in every respect, and it has almost entirely superseded 
the Saint'Brieuc even in Brittany. 



ONION 



467 




Bright Red August Onion natural size). 



Early Flat Red Onion.— An exceedingly early variety, which 
bulbs almost as soon as the Early White Silver-skinned Onion, 
like which it has scanty and slightly glaucous leaves. The bulb 
is very broad and flat in proportion to its depth, and is of a decided 
red colour when dried a little, 
but while growing, and also 
underneath the outer coats, it 
is more of a purple colour. 
It is a good first-crop Onion, 
but, like most very early 
varieties, does not keep very 
well. 

Bright Red August 
Onion. — This handsome 
variety is not unlike the 
]\Iezieres Onion described 
further on, but the bulb is 
somewhat smaller, seldom 
exceeding 4 in. in diameter, 
and about if in. in thickness. 
It is usually thicker in com- 
parison with its diameter than the Mezieres variety, and also less 
riattened at the ends ; its colour is a little darker on the outer 
coats, and violet-red on the inner ones. An essential difference 
between the two kinds is that the August variety is especially 
suitable for sowing in autumn. It is chiefly grown in the south- 
eastern parts of France, where it is sown in August and transplanted 
in October, the crop coming in in the course of the following 
summer. It is productive and keeps well. 

Blood-red, or St. Thomas', Onion. — Bulb very much flattened. 

seldom exceeding about 
an inch in thickness, with 
a diameter of from 2| to 
3i in. ; coats firm, closely 
set, of a deep wine-red on 
'-^ the outside ; inner ones 
of a fine, intense, brilliant 
red ; neck fine ; leaves 
rather stiff, compact, and 
dark green. This is a 
mid - season variety, not 
very productive, but keeps 
very well. It is hardy and easily grown, and is most in favour in 
the northern districts of France. 

In the south-west of France, especially about Bordeaux, a very 
fine variety of Onion is sometimes met with under the plain name 




Blood-red, or St. Thomas", Onion. 



468 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




of the Red Onion. The bulb of this variety is as highly coloured 
as that of the Blood-red Onion, but in shape and size it more 

resembles the Flat Tripoli. 
It is sometimes nearly 5 in. 
in diameter, and is very 
much flattened at top 
and bottom. The flesh is 
tender and mild flavoured, 
but the bulb does not keep 
well. 

In all the Red Onions 
just described, the red 
colouring is superficial. 
When the bulbs are cut 
across, two or three of the 
outer coats are seen to 
be pretty highly coloured, 
while the interior ones are 
hardly pink. 

Globe Tripoli, or Globe 
Red Madeira, Onion. — 
This is the largest of all 
varieties of Onion. The 
bulbs are almost spherical, 
and it is not uncommon to see some of them 6 or 7 in. in diameter. 
The outer coats are very thin and brittle, and salmon-pink in colour, 
while the inner ones have a tinge of lilac. The flesh is very tender, 
sweet, and mild flavoured. The neck is rather fine for the size of 
the bulb ; leaves stout, numerous, 
and light green. This variety does 
best in warm climates, and in the 
south of Europe is highly valued 
for its size and agreeable flavour. 
It only attains its full development 
when sown in autumn. In the 
climate of Paris it is very sensitive 
to cold, and does not keep well. 

Flat Tripoli, or Flat Red 
Madeira Onion. — Bulb of large 
size, broad, and very much flattened, 
from 6 to 8 in. in diameter, and 
about 2 m. thick, of the same colour 
as the preceding kind, or a little 
redder. The flesh, like that of the 

Globe Tripoli, is tender, and the bulb keeps equally badly, 
varieties are grown in exactly the same manner. 



Globe Tripoli, or Madeira, Onion (5 natural size). 




Flat Tripoli Onion natural size). 

Both 



ONION 



469 



In order to obtain the enormous specimens of Tripoli Onions 
which may be sometimes seen exposed for sale by dealers in 
southern produce, the seed is sown in August, and the young 
plants are planted out in 
October and November. In 
the following year their growth 
is stimulated by continual 
supplies of water and manure, 
until July or August, when 
watering is discontinued, and 
in about a month afterwards 
the bulbs are gathered, some 
of them weighing two pounds 
each or even more. 

Blood-red Flat Italian 
Onion. — Bulb flat, rather thick. 




Blood-red Fiat Italian Onion (g natural size). 



from 41 to 5 1 in. in transverse diameter and a Httle over 2 in. thick; 
outer coats rather thick and dull red ; inner ones of a brighter 
shade slightly tinged with violet ; flesh tender and not very close ; 
leaves numerous, stout, and dark green. This is a half-late variety, 
and rather difficult to keep. It does better when sown in autumn 
than when sown in spring, and is especially suitable for warm 
climates. When grown in northern countries, it quickly alters, 

losing much of its size, and at the 
same time becoming closer in 
texture and stronger in flavour. 

Giant Rocca Onion.— A very 
handsome and good variety, of 
Italian origin. Bulb somewhat 
smaller than that of the Tripoli 
Onion, and still further distin- 
guished from it by being chamois 
colour rather than pink, and flat on 
the top. The neck is fine for the 
size of the bulb, and the outer coats 
are firmer and tougher than those 
of the Tripoli Onions. The leaves 
are stout (but not excessively so), 
stiff, and a light green. A well- 
grown bulb will have a diameter 
of nearly 5 in., with a thickness of 
about 3|- in. This is a half-late 
variety, very productive, keeps well, 
and, for a southern kind, does not do badly when sown in 
spring, although it succeeds far better when sown in autumn. 
A sub-variety is grown in Italy, under the name of Rose-coloured 




Giant Rocca Onion natural size). 



470 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Rocca, which differs from the Giant Rocca only by its russet 
colour. 

Pear-shaped Onion. — There are numerous varieties of long- 
bulbed Onions, which 
differ from one another 
in colour and earliness. 
In these, the broadest 
part of the bulb is usually 
nearer to the neck than 
to the roots, so that the 
bulb narrows more ab- 
ruptly at the neck end 
than it does towards the 
roots, and resembles a 
Pear with its stalk down- 
wards. In Spain a White 
Pear-shaped Onion is 
cultivated. This is a late 
and large-sized kind, often 
growing nearly 5 in. long 
and about 3 in. in 



Pear-shaped Onion (5 natural size) 

diameter. In France and Germany there are several other varieties 
of Pear-shaped Onions with a red or yellow skin, one of which 
grows so long that it is named the Ox-horn, or Spindle-shaped 
Onion. These varieties, 
however, are more curious 
than useful. 

Tree, Egyptian, or 
Bulb - bearing, Onion. — 
Bulb rather flat, coppery 
in colour. Instead of seeds, 
the stem produces at the 
extremity a cluster of small 
bulbs, of a brown-red colour, 
from which the plant is 
propagated. When planted 
in spring, these small bulbs 
form large ones by the end 
of the year, but do not 
produce any bulblets until 
the following year. The 
flesh of the Tree Onion 
is agreeable, but rather 




Tree, Egyptian, or Bulb-bearing, Onion (yV natural 
size ; detached bulblets, \ natural size). 



deficient in delicacy of flavour. The bulbs soon decay, but the 
bulblets keep very well. 

Catawissa Onion. — Some years since a variety was introduced 



ONION 



471 



from America under the name of the Catawissa Onion, which 
appears to us to be only a slight modification of the Tree Onion, 
from which it is distinguished by the great vigour of its growth 
and the rapidity with which the bulblets commence to grow 
without being detached from the top of the stem. These have 
hardly attained their full size when they emit stems which also 
produce bulblets, and in favourable seasons this second tier of 
bulblets will emit green shoots, leaves, or barren stems, bringing 
the height of the plant up to over 2\ ft. Only a small number of 
bulblets (two or three on 
each stem) emit shoots. The 
rest do not sprout in the 
first year and can be used 
for propagating the plant. 
The plant is perennial, and 
may be propagated by 
division of the tufts, like the 
Welsh Onion. 

Potato Onion. — Bulb 
rather large, from 2 to over 
3 in. in diameter, and about 
2 in. thick ; skin thick and 
of a coppery yellow colour. 
This variety more frequently 
forms a cluster of under- 
ground bulbs of irregular 
shape than a single round 
bulb. It produces neither 

seeds nor bulblets, and is Catawissa Onion natural size). 

propagated only from the 

cloves or bulbs which are formed underground. If pretty strong 
cloves are planted immediately after winter, well-grown Onions 
may be gathered from them in the following June ; but if the 
plants are allowed to attain full maturity, instead of a single 
bulb from each, seven or eight will be produced of various sizes. 
The strongest of these will also in their turn produce a number of 
bulbs or cloves, while the weaker ones generally grow into a single 
large bulb. The flesh of the Potato Onion is very agreeable to 
the taste and of good quality. The larger the bulbs are, the worse 
they keep. 

Among the very numerous varieties of Onions which exist 
in addition to those just described, the following are the most 
noteworthy : — 

Ognon d'Aigre. — A local variety, grown in the Department of 
Charente, which may be .regarded as a sub-variety of the Niort 
Pale Red Onion, but has a flatter bulb. 




472 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



O. Rouge Pale d'Alais. — A southern variety, suitable for sowing 
in autumn. It is tolerably like the Xiort Pale Red Onion, but is 
thicker in the bulb. 

O. Paille Gros de Bale. — A rather handsome, half-early variet}', 
with a flat, well-shaped bulb, and a very fine neck, intermediate in 
colour between the White Spanish and the Strasburg Onion. 

Bedfordshire Champion Onion. — A fine English variety. 
Bulb nearly spherical, and of the colour of the sulphur-coloured 
White Spanish Onion. It is a little thicker than the Xaseby 
Mammoth and its allies, which are mentioned farther on. 

Dark Red Brunswick Onion. — Bulb very flat, rather small, 
seldom exceeding about 2h in. diameter, and about an inch or less 
thick, hard and firm, of such a deep red colour that it verges on 
black ; neck fine ; leaves short, rather slender, and a dark, slightly 
glaucous, green. This is a moderately productive kind, but keeps 
rem^arkably v/ell. 

Ognon Cabosse. — Bulb very fiat and rather firm, with a very fine 
satiny skin of a slightly coppery or salm.on-pink colour. The neck is 
very fine, and the disc or plate from which the roots issue is remark- 
ably sm.all, This fine v?.i-:ety is well adapted for sowing in autumin. 

Cantellos Prize Onion. — Intermediate between the White 
Spanish and the Strasburg Onion, it comes near the numerous 
English varieties v.hich are referred to the Deptford Onion. 

Ognon Rouge de Castillon. — A handsome red fiatOnion of large 
size, v.-hich is brought to Bordeaux in considerable quantities in 
autumn. It is tolerably like the Meziir^s 0?i2o?2, but is often 
larger — mere about the size of the Flat Tripoli. Like most large 
tender-neshed Onions, it keeps badly. 

Chamois Glatte Wiener Zwiebel. — A handsome copper>' pink 
variety, with a fine neck and somev/hat irregular shape. The 
_ j^*^ Zittau Giant Onion appears 

ilKS^ Vz^^^^fcr improved form, of it. 



— A small handsome Onion, coppery yellow in colour, with ver>' 
thin silky outer coats : the bulb is very fiat, less than an inch in 
diameter. It is much grown near Com.o, in Lombardy. It is a 
quick grower and keeps v.cll. It is sold during the winter in long 
hanks like the Stravr-coloured Vertus Onion. 




O. Paille de Chateau- 
Renard. — The bulb of this 
variety is move, of a copper}' 
or salmon colour than a true 
yellow, which its name would 
appear to indicate. It bears 
a great resemblance to the 
Lescure Onicn 



Ccmo Flat Yellcv,- Or.icr.. 



Como Flat Yellow Onion. 



ONION 



473 



Deptford, or Essex, Onion. — This variety is very closely 
allied to the Straw-coloured Vertus, but is a little redder in colour 



a productive and pretty early 
practice is to sow it in spring ; 




Mulhouse Oi 



and usually less in diameter. It is 
kind, and keeps well. The general 
but it is often grown from 
small bulbs raised in the 
previous year from thick 
sowings. These small bulbs 
form an important article 
of commerce under the name 
of Mulhouse Onions. The 
Brown Spanish, or Oporto, 
Onion is also frequently 
grown in the same way. 

Extra Early Flat Red 
Onion. — An American 
variety. Bulb very flat, of 

the same size and earliness as the Early White Silver-skinned 
Onion, but dark red tinged with violet. It is a very distinct kind, 
and bulbs remarkably early. 

O. Geant de Garganus Blanc. — Corresponding to the American 
Mammoth Silver King. An Italian variety, in shape and earliness 
almost the same as the Paris Silver-skin Onion, but larger in size. 

O. Geant de Garganus Rouge. — Corresponding to the American 
Mammoth Pompeii Onion. A very large onion, deep red in colour, 
related to O. de Genes. 

Ognon de Genes. — Bulb red, of medium size, often splitting into 
several cloves. It is earlier and smaller than the Blood-red Flat 
Italian Onion. 

Large Yellow Dutch Onion. — An American variety. Bulb 

yellow, of medium size, nearly 
the same shape as that of the 
Straw-coloured Vertus Onion, 
but of a more coppery colour, 
like that of the Danvers Onion. 

Yellow Lescure Onion. — 
A handsome kind, much grown 
in the vicinity of Toulouse, 
and all through Languedoc. 
It is chiefly adapted for 
sowing in autumn. The bulb 
somewhat resembles that of 
the Niort Pale Red Onion, but 
is not so flat, and its colour is much more of a yellow or coppery tinge. 

Bright Red Mezieres Onion. — Bulb flat, very broad, sometimes 
4 or 5 in. across, and about 2 in. thick, of a fine intense red colour, 




Bright Red Mezieres Onion. 



474 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



slightly tinged with purple on the inner coats ; neck rather stout ; 
leaves large, numerous, erect, and dark green in colour. A very 
handsome and exceedingly productive variety. It keeps well, and 
is very suitable for sowing in spring. 

Ognon Monteragone. — An Italian variety. Bulb medium- 
sized, thickish, with a coppery red skin, and rather like that of 
the Strasburg Onion. 

Naseby Mammoth, Nuneham Park, and Improved Reading 
Onion. — These three varieties are so like one another that they 
may be considered identical. They are a form of the White 
Spanish Onion with the bulb thicker and somewhat darker 
coloured than that of the ordinary variety. 

Niirnberger Zwiebel— A German variety of the Common Pale 
Red Onion, from which it is distinguished by the smallness of the 
bulbs, which are also somewhat firmer and better shaped. 

O. de Puyregner, or O. Rouge Rose d' Angers. — In Anjou this 
variety is considered different from the Niort Pale Red Onion. 
We mention it here merely to state this, as from all the comparative 
trials we have made with it, it appears to us to be exactly the same. 

Red Globe Onion. — An American variety, apparently only a 
spherical-bulbed form of the Wethersfield Onion. 

O. Rouge Monstre. — A kind of Tripoli Onion, intermediate in 
shape between the Globe and the Flat varieties, and of a very 
decided red colour. 

Yellow Russian Onion.— An exceedingly distinct kind. 
Bulbs rather small and thick, with the fault of frequently splitting 
into cloves, but still keeping better than any other kind. We have 
seen bulbs of this variety which were gathered in autumn keeping 
good for use until September of the following year. The outer 
skin is very leathery ; it is of a coppery colour, like that of the 
Strasburg Onion, but with age becomes as brown as the skin of 
a Tulip bulb. 

O. Brun de Saint-Laurent. — Of Italian origin, bulbs top- 
shaped, almost flat, copper-yellow, tending to brown. A vigorous 
late variety. 

O. Rouge de Salon. — A southern variety, with a large but rather 
soft bulb, like that of the Tripoli Onions. In colour it quite 
resembles the Blood-red Flat Italian Onion, but it is notably 
thicker. 

O. de Teneriffe. — A very distinct small-sized variety, with a 
very flat bulb of a grayish pink colour. This is the earliest of all 
varieties next to the New Queen Onion, being even some days 
earlier than the Early White Nocera. It may be here remarked 
that in sowings of the last-named variety some coloured bulbs are 
almost always found which bear a marked resemblance to the 
Teneriffe Onion. 



ONION 



475 



O. Rouge Pale de Tournon. — A very handsome, pink-tinged, 
yellow Onion, of rather large size, flat, and early. It greatly 
resembles the O. Jaune de Lescure mentioned above. 

Two-bladed Onion. — A very early small-sized kind, copper- 
red in colour, with a fine neck, almost sunk in the bulb. When 
this variety comes true from seed, most of the plants have only two 
or three leaves each, from which peculiarity it takes its name. 

O. de Vaug"irard. — This name is sometimes given to a some- 
what earlier form of the Early Paris Silver-skinned Onion, but the 
variety is not well established nor very constant. 

O. de Villefranche. — A handsome, medium-sized, very flat, and 
fine-necked variety, yellow pink or salmon colour. It is an early 
kind, keeps well, and is not unlike the Lescure Onion. 

Wethersfield Onion. — A very handsome American variety, 
with a very smooth, clean-skinned bulb, almost spherical, or slightly 
flattened at the ends. In shape and size it comes very near the 
Danvers Yellow Onion, and, like that variety, has an exceedingly 
fine neck ; but it differs entirely from it in colour, being of a bright 
red, like the Mezieres Onion. The leaves are slender, long, and of 
a clear green colour. This a half-early kind, and keeps well. In 
its original form the bulb was quite spherical, but at the present 
day it is seldom found, even in America, without having the ends 
somewhat flattened, and wherever the primitive form occurs it is 
known as the Large Red Globe Onion. 

White Globe Onion. — Under this name is grown in England 
a variety with a spherical bulb of the colour of the White Spanish 
Onion — that is, a pale or greenish yellow. It is important not to 
confound this variety with the Globe Silver-skinned Onion, which 
is really white. 

WELSH ONION, or CIBOULE 

Allium fistula sum ^ L. Liliacece. 

French, Ciboule. German, Schnittzwiebel. Flemish, Pijplook. Dtitch, Bieslook. 
Danish, Purlog. Italian, Cipolleta. Spanish, Cebolleta. Portuguese, Cebolinha. 

Native of Siberia or the East. — Perennial, but cultivated as an 
annual or biennial. — A plant very closely allied to the Common 
Onion in its botanical characteristics, although it does not form a 
bulb, properly so called, but only a small enlargement at the base 
of each shoot. Leaves numerous, hollow, rather dark green in 
colour, somewhat glaucous, and lO to 14 in. long. In the second 
year the flower-stem makes its appearance and grows about 20 in. 
high ; it is swollen about the middle and terminates in a spherical 
•cluster of flowers like those of the Common Onion. 

Culture. — The plant may be propagated by division, as each 
of the stems which are swollen at the base will speedily produce 



476 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



or enlargements 



a new tuft ; but, as it seeds abundantly, and the plants are apt to 
suffer in a severe winter, it is most usually raised from seed in 
preference. The soil should be good, and both well manured 
and well dug. The seed is sown, where the plants are to stand, 
from February to April or May. The only attention afterwards 
required is to water the plants and keep the beds free from weeds, 
as with Onions. In three months' time after sowing, the first 
cuttings of the leaves for use may be made. 

Uses. — The leaves, which have a strong Oniony flavour, are 
used for seasoning. 

Common, or French Red, Welsh Onion, or Ciboule. — Bulbs 
very long, coppery red, and covered with dry 
membranes, like the outer coats 
of the Common Onion, which also 
cover the bases of the leaves for 
some distance above ground; seed 
black, angular, flattened, and con- 
cave on one of the sides or faces, 
and quite like the seed of the 
Common Onion. Its germinating 
power lasts for two or three years. 
This is the variety which is most 
commonly grown. It is produc- 
tive and comparatively hardy. 

Early White, or English, 
Welsh Onion. — A very distinct 
variety, having the bulbs or en- 
largements shorter than those of 
the preceding or ordinary kind, and 
with pinkish white coats, silvery 
white above ground. Leaves short 
and stiff, dark glaucous green, not so strong to taste as those of 
the ordinary kind, and more delicate in flavour. The seed also is 
smaller. Its germinating power continues for the same length of 
time. This variety appears to be sensitive to cold. In winter it 
loses its leaves entirely, but sends out new ones early in spring. 




Common Welsh Onion, or Ciboule 
(|- natural size ; detached stem, 
^ natural size). 



PERENNIAL WELSH ONION 

Allium lusitanicum^ Lamk. LiliacecB. 

Ciboule vivace. 

Bulbs numerous, very long, a rather deep red-brown, attached 
to a common disc at the base ; leaves a very glaucous green, stiff, 
thick, and numerous. The plant sometimes produces flower-stems, 
w^hich terminate in a globular cluster of pale violet-coloured flowers 



PERENNIAL WELSH ONION 



477 



yielding no seed. This Onion is always multiplied by division of 
the tufts, and with this exception its culture is exactly similar to 
that of the ordinary variety. 

ORACHE 

Atriplex horteiisis, L. Chenopodiacece. 

French^ Arroche. German^ Gartenmelde. Flemish and Dutch, Melde. Italian. Atreplice. 
Spanish. Armuelle. Portugitese, Armolas. 

Native of Tartary. — Annual. — A plant with broad, arrow-shaped, 
slightly crimped, soft, pliable leaves. Stems 5 to 6\ ft. high, angular, 
and furrowed; flowers apetalous, very small, green or red, according 
to the variety ; seed flat, russet-coloured, surrounded by a leafy 
membrane of a light yellow colour. The plant also produces 
some seeds, which are black, small, and disc-shaped, without any 
membranous appendage. These are not always fertile. Their 
germinating power lasts for six years. 

Culture. — The seed is sown, where the plants are to stand, 
in the open ground in the beginning of March, usually in drills. 
When the seedlings have made three or four leaves, they should 
be thinned out, after which 
they require no further at- 
tention, except occasional 
watering in very dry 
weather. The plants bear 
hot weather pretty well, 
but soon run to seed, on 
which account it is advis- 
able to make successional 
sowings from month to 
month. 

Uses. — The leaves are 
eaten boiled, like Spinach 
or Sorrel, and are often 
mixed with the latter to 
modify its acidity. 

The following are the 
three principal kinds of 
Orache which are most 
commonly cultivated in 
France : — 

White Orache.— This 




White or Yellow Oracht 



variety is more commonly grown than any other kind. The leaves 
are a very pale green, almost yellow. 

Dark Red Orache. — The stems and leaves of this variety are of 
a dark red colour, which gives it a very distinct appearance. The 
red colour disappears in cooking. 



478 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Green Orache, or Lee's Giant Orache. — A very vigorous kind, 
•with a stout, angular, branching stem. The leaves are rounder and 
less toothed than those of the White variety, from which they differ 
also in being dark green. 

There is also a variety grown which has pale red or copper- 
coloured leaves. This, however, does not possess an\' special merit. 

Within the last few years some persons have spoken very highly 
of Cheitopodium auricovinni, Lindley — a tall, branching plant with 
rather small leaves. This does not appear to be in any way superior 
to the Common Garden Orache, except perhaps for u-arm climates. 

SPANISH OYSTER PLANT.— See Thistle, Golden 
VEGETABLE OYSTER.— See Salsafy 
PARSLEY 

Apiuni Petroselinum, L. ; Petroselinum sativum, Hoffm. UrnbellifercB. 

F7-ench. Persil. Gerinan, Petersilie. Flemish and Dutch, Pieterselie. Danish, Petersilje. 
Italian, Prezzemolo. Spanish, Perejil. Portuguese, Salsa. 

Native of Sardinia. — Biennial. — During the first year of its 
growth the Parsley-plant only forms a more or less full rosette of 
long-stalked leaves, which are two or three times divided, and 
dark green in colour ; the divisions are toothed, more or less 
entire, or, in some varieties, finely cut. The flower-stem, which 
does not appear until the second year, is erect, branching, furrowed, 
and from 2 to over 2\ ft. high. Flowers small, greenish blue in 
colour, in terminal umbels ; seeds three-sided, grey or light brown, 
flat on two sides and convex on the third, where they are marked 
with five prominent ribs. They are strongly aromatic, like all the 
other parts of the plant. Their germinating power lasts for three 
years at least. 

Culture. — The seed may be sown in the open air, from ]\Iarcii 
to August or September, either on the edges of beds containing 
other plants or in separate beds, in drills lo or 12 in. apart. It is 
usually rather slow in germinating, seldom doing so in less than a 
month. If the seedlings are properly thinned, and the beds kept 
free from weeds and frequently watered, some leaves will be fit 
to cut in about three months after sowing. It is a good plan to 
cut only the best-grown leaves one by one, as Sorrel leaves are 
gathered, as when this is done the plants yield a more prolonged 
supply than when whole tufts are cut off at once. As Parsley is 
somewhat sensitive to cold, it is advisable, in order to keep up the 
supply in winter, to put a frame over a bed in full bearing, choosing, if 
possible, one containing young plants which were sown about August. 
Old well-established plants also might be taken up and forced in 
a plant-house or a hot-bed, in the same way as Asparagus stools. 



PARSLEY 



479 



Simple as the matter is to many, 
others find it difficult to secure a 
constant supply of good Parsley, 
owing to haphazard ways of sowing 
and to subsequent neglect. The 
following extracts from Gardening, 
written in reply to a question on 
the subject, furnish good general 
cultural directions : 

"An open plot should be selected, 
but it should be protected from the 
northern and eastern winter's blast. 
This should be trenched, or at least 
deeply dug, and liberally manured. 
The seed should be sown the first 
week in June, so that the plants may 
get large and strong before winter 
sets in. When the seedlings are 
large enough, they should be thinned 
out to at least a foot apart each way. 
I should have stated that, as the 
plants grow but slowly in winter, a 
much larger piece of land must be 
sown than would be required for a 
summer's supply. It would be ad- 
visable to make a sowing in a pit or 
frame for use when frost and snow 
are on the ground; or if four short 
stakes were driven into the ground, 
and connected with cross-pieces, 
so as to be in readiness for laying 
boards, faggots, or wattle hurdles 
across on the approach of hard 
frost, the same end would be at- 
tained. A sowing should be made 
in July for late spring use. March 
is the time to sow for a summer 
supply. Sometimes failure ensues, 
not from defective cultivation, but 
because the young seedlings are 
destroyed by vermin as soon as 
they appear; or, as is often the 
case, as the seeds must not be 
buried deep, and are a consider- 
able time germinating, when dry 
weather sets in after sowing, the 
seeds perish. To guard against 
failure from either of these causes, 
at the same time the seeds are sown 
in the open ground some should be 



sown in a box or pan, so that should 
failure arise in the first instance, 
there would be a supply of young 
seedlings that could be potted into 
small pots. These young plants, 
when ready, should be put out in 
the ground where the seeds failed 
to germinate. It is safer to shift 
the young seedlings into small pots 
than to prick them into boxes, be- 
cause when, in the latter case, they 
are taken up with balls of earth and 
put into the ground, the injury done 
to the roots in the operation causes 
flagging, and makes the plants very 
palatable to slugs. Nor is the pot- 
ting so formidable a matter as to 
some it might appear. Old potting 
stuff or common garden soil would 
do for the purpose, and a man of 
ordinary quickness would pot off 
a hundred plants in an hour." — 
L. C. R. 

" Sow thinly in March and again 
at the end of July for succession on 
land that has been heavily manured 
for the previous crop, and which 
should be deeply trenched. Sow 
in beds broadcast when the ground 
is dry, and well tread in. By doing 
so, some of the seeds will be in the 
exact depth to germinate freely and 
make nice healthy plants, which 
should be left when thinning out, 
say 12 in. apart if large specimens 
are required. A slight dressing of 
soot will be of service when plants 
are thinned, which put on when 
damp. If your soil is light in tex- 
ture, well roll or tread, as I find 
Parsley does well with me on light 
soil when ground is so treated." — 
E. T. P. 

" In preparing a Parsley bed, the 
soil should be removed to the depth 
of 6 or 8 in., and filled in with 
stones, brick-rubbish, and similar 
loose material ; on the top a good 
depth of rich soil should be placed, 
which should be raised above the 



480 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



level of the ground. Sow at the 
end of May seed of the most early 
variety. If the weather continues 
dry, water frequently until the 
plants are up, which will be in 
five or six weeks. When large 
enough, thin them out to 4 or 5 in. 
apart. Parsley when well up re- 
quires very little water; the roots 
should be kept in a rather dry 
state."— A. N. 

"It is thought that Parsley will 
grow anywhere, but I have found 
that in some classes of soil the 
roots are attacked by canker of 
some kind. The main stem has a 
rusty appearance, and many of the 
fibrous roots decay. You should 
work the .ground to the depth of a 
foot, giving it a good dressing of 
rotten stable manure. Sow the 
seeds in March. To make sure of 
Parsley in winter, the leaves must 
be cut off about the first week in 



September; this will be the cause 
of a sturdy late autumn growth, 
which will stand best through the 
winter."— J. D. E. 

Market - Garden Culture. — 
Parsley is grown to a large extent in 
some market-gardens about London, 
whilst in others none can be found. 
The seed is sown in successional 
batches from March to August in 
rich soil, and generally where the 
plants are to remain, transplantation 
being considered detrimental to its 
producing good foliage; it also in- 
duces the plants to run to seed 
sooner than they otherwise would 
do. When up, the young plants 
are thinned out to a proper dis- 
tance apart by means of hoes, and 
some growers protect a large bed 
of it during winter; but, as a rule, 
this kind of treatment is not con- 
sidered sufficiently remunerative to 
be carried out on a large scale. 



Uses. — The leaves, which are aromatic, are much used, raw, 
fried or boiled, for flavouring, garnishing, etc. 

Common, or Plain, Parsley. — The characteristics of this plant 
being exactly the same as those of the typical species described 

J., above, we need not re- 

' peat them here, and shall 

merely observe with re- 
spect to this form of 
Parsley that it is the 
only one that might be 
easily confounded with 
Fool's Parsley {/Ethusa 
Cynapium, L.), a native 
and virulently poisonous 
plant. The leaves of the 
two plants are so much 
alike that even a practical 
gardener cannot distin- 
guish one from the other with certainty unless he tests them by 
taste and smell. When Parsley is grown for flavouring sauces, 
etc., every care should be taken to prevent a poisonous plant being 
mistaken for it. This could be done most effectually and easily by 
making it a rule never to grow any kind except the Curled-leaved 




Common, or Plain, Parsley (i- natural size). 



PARSLEY 



or Fern-leaved varieties, which are quite as good for flavouring as 
the Common Parsley, and much better for garnishing. As these 
kinds do not seed very plentifully, and require some care to keep 
the varieties pure, the seed is rather dearer than that of the 
Common Parsley, but so little of it is sufficient for a garden, and 
the perfect security from danger which is ensured by growing only 
these kinds is so precious, that the matter of cost is really hardly 
worth mentioning. 

Double-curled Parsley. — In this variety, the divisions of the 
leaves are rather deeply cut, and each of the small segments thus 
formed is more or less turned back on the upper side, giving the 
whole leaf a crisped or curled appearance which has a rather 
pleasing effect. 

In some forms of Curled Parsley, the segments of the leaf are 
'turned back so much as to show almost the whole of the under- 
side, which is of a paler and grayer green than the upper side. Of 
this kind are the forms known as the Windsor Curled Parsley and 
Sniith's Curled Parsley. These kinds are not so pleasing in appear- 
ance as the Common Curled Parsley, as their leaves always have 
something of the look of being blemished or diseased. 

Champion Moss-curled Parsley. — Resembles the Double- 
curled Parsley, and, like 
the latter, is easily told 
from all wild plants of 
the UmbellifercB tribe. Its 
dark green colour makes 
it useful for garnishing. 

Double-curled Dwarf 
Parsley. — A sub-variety 
of Curled Parsley, remark- 
able for the fineness of 
the cutting and the great 
number of the divisions of 
the leaves. The segments 
touch one another, and give 
the leaf the appearance of 
a piece of very dense Moss. 
In this form the leaf-stalks 
are exceedingly short, so 
that the leaves almost lie upon the ground, forming a very low 
thick tuft. This is the best Parsley of all to use for decorative 
purposes, and for garnishing dishes. It is also quite as aromatic as 
the other kinds. 

Fern-leaved Parsley. — In this variety the leaves are not curled, 
but are divided into a very great number of small thread-like seg- 
ments, giving to the whole plant a very light and graceful appearance. 

31 




Double-curled Dwarf Parsley (i natural size). 



482 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The plant is also distinguished by the very dark green colour of 
the leaves. It is one of the most difficult kinds to preserve quite 
pure. 

Hamburgh, Large-rooted, or Turnip-rooted Parsley.— In this 
kind of Parsley it is not the leaves, but the thick fleshy roots, which 
form the edible part of the plant. These 
roots, which are of a dingy white colour, 
and almost like Parsnip roots, often grow 
6 in. long, with a diameter of 2 in. in the 
thickest part, which is usually close to the 
neck. The flesh is white and somewhat 
dry. In flavour it resembles the Celeriac, 
or Turnip-rooted Celery, but is not so 
delicate. The leaves are exactly like those 
of the Common Parsley. In Germany, 
where this plant is rather extensively culti- 
vated, there are two varieties grown, viz. 
a late one, which has long slender roots, 
and an early one, the roots of which are 
shorter and thicker. These varieties do 





Fern-leaved Parsley natural size). 



Late Hamburgh Parsley 
(-^ natural size). 



not appear to us to be very constant, and the difference in the 
weight of their respective produce is rather slight. 

The early or thick-rooted variety is grown like the Parsnip. 
The seed is sown immediately after winter in well-dug soil, and 
the roots may commence to be gathered in September. They 
are not affected by frost, and may be left in the ground until it 
arrives. This plant is not one of the old-fashioned vegetables, 



PARSLEY 



483 



but, like the Bulbous-rooted Chervil, was taken in hand and intro- 
duced into cultivation at a comparatively recent date. 

Amongst plants which are not yet in cultivation, and especially 
amongst the biennial Umbelliferous plants, it might be possible to 
bring some of them to produce fleshy roots of sufficient size to form 
useful vegetables. The 
result of one experiment 
which was undertaken by 
us for a purely scientific 
purpose confirms this 
opinion. The Beaked 
Parsley {Anthriscus sylves- 
irzs, L.), a wild plant of 
our woods, at the end of 
ten years' repeated sowings 
and methodical selection, 
produced in some sowings 
a proportion of one-half 
or more of simple, clean- 
skinned, fusiform roots, as 
regular in shape as the best roots of the Hamburgh Parsley. Now, 
in the wild state the root of this plant is as forked and divided as 
that of the Celery. The progress made, therefore, was considerable, 
and it is to be observed that the plants thus improved represented 
only the fifth generation from the wild plant, as the Anthriscus^ 
being a biennial, does not seed until the second year. 

PARSNIPS 

Pastinaca sativa^ L. Umhelliferce. 

French, Panais. German. Pastinake. Flemish and Dutch^ Pastenaak. Danish, 
Pastinak. Italian^ Pastinaca. Spanish, Chirivia. Portuguese, Pastinaga. 

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — Root a very long tap, white, 
swollen, and fleshy ; radical leaves divided, as far as the midrib, 
into irregular toothed segments ; leaf-stalks overlapping, and often 
violet-coloured at the base ; stem hollow, furrowed, branching, 
bearing at the extremity broad umbels of green flowers, succeeded 
by flat, almost circular seeds, which are winged at the margin, 
light brown, and marked with five raised lines or ridges. The 
germinating power of the seeds lasts for two years. 

Culture. — Parsnips are grown in the same manner as 
Carrots, only they may be sown earlier in the year — about the 
end of February or early in March. The seed cannot always 
be depended on for germinating, and, in dry climates often 




Early Hamburgh Parsley (i natural size). 



484 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



fails to do so, from the want of atmospheric moisture. Being a 
very hardy plant, the crop may be left in the ground until late 
in autumn, or even all through the winter, and taken up as the 
roots are required. 



Soil. — Although the Parsnip will 
grow in almost any kind of soil, it 
succeeds best in land that is neither 
over-light and sandy on the one 
hand, nor too heavy and adhesive 
on the other. The form of the root, 
penetrating as it does for a consider- 
able distance straight down, at once 
shows the necessity for a sufficient 
depth of soil to admit of its extend- 
ing; consequently the ground should 
be well and deeply dug, so as to 
readily allow its descent whilst the 
root is young and delicate. The 
soil should be moderately rich for 
Parsnips to grow to a large size, 
in which condition they are quite 
different, both in flavour and texture, 
from the stunted, starved produc- 
tions resulting from poor hungry 
land and negligent cultivation. But 
although the Parsnip likes to be well 
nourished, it is not advisable to grow 
it in land that has immediately be- 
fore received a heavy dressing of 
manure, as the roots are then liable 
to be cankered or affected with grub. 
It is best to grow it after some other 
crop that has been well manured, such 
as Onions, Cauliflowers, or Lettuce, 
trenching or deeply digging the 
ground over in the autumn, and 
leaving it as rough as possible on 
the surface. Should the soil not be 
suitable for the crop on account of 
its poverty, some manure ought to 
be added in the autumn, which will 
be much better than adding it at 
the time of sowing, mixing it regu- 
larly with the soil as the work 
proceeds. 

Sowing and Thinning. — About 
the middle or latter end of March, 
according as the locality may be 
early or late, as soon as the land is 



sufficiently dry, let it be well forked, 
reducing all the hard lumps that 
exist — not merely making it smooth 
on. the surface, but quite as deep as 
the fork or spade goes. This is 
necessary for most plants, but par- 
ticularly so for Parsnips, or the roots 
are liable to grow forked. With this, 
as with all other spring-sown crops, 
never be guided by a certain date, 
even to a week, in the time of sow- 
ing, if the state of the land be such 
as not to favour the sowing of the 
seed ; it is always better to wait 
than sow when the soil is too wet — 
the effect of which is that it does 
not germinate freely, and the land 
gets compressed and never works 
kindly throughout the whole season. 
Sow in drills i in. deep, and from 
15 to 18 in. apart, according to the 
more or less rich condition of the 
land. All that is afterwards required 
is timely thinning, leaving the plants 
10 or 12 in. apart in the rows, and 
the careful destruction of weeds by 
frequent hoeings throughout the 
season. 

Storing. — Many take up the 
roots towards the end of October 
and store them in sand or ashes ; 
but they are much better if left in 
the ground, as not liable to get 
spongy or strong flavoured, which 
they sometimes do when stored 
under cover. If the ground occu- 
pied by the crop is required for 
other purposes, the roots may be 
dug up and stuck in mounds or 
clamps, in the same manner as 
Potatoes, or a deep trench may be 
dug and the roots placed perpendicu- 
larly in it close together, afterwards 
covering them over with soil to a 
depth of 6 in. 



PARSNIPS 



In the London market-gardens, 
Parsnips are always sown as soon 
after the middle of February as 
possible, provided the ground is 
moderately dry and warm, and 
crumbles freely with the fork. Pre- 
paratory to sowing, the ground is 
levelled, and the soil well broken 
in the operation, and finished off by 
raking the surface smooth with a 
wooden rake. Shallow drills are 
then drawn for the seeds at about 
1 8 or 20 in. apart; and after being 
sown they are covered in by the feet 
or the back of a rake, and the whole 
is smoothly rolled. Sometimes white 
or green Cos Lettuces have been 
planted in rows at those distances, 
and the Parsnips sown in lines 
between them. In either case, 
Lettuces are planted — if not first, 
they are put in afterwards ; and as 
the Parsnips take a long time to 
germinate, the Lettuces are removed 
before they can injure them. As 
soon as the Parsnips are fairly up 
and growing, they are thinned out a 
little, and when well estabhshed, 
they are finally thinned to 9 in. 
apart. The Lettuces, when mar- 



ketable, are tied up and removed 
before they can choke or otherwise 
injure the Parsnips, which after- 
wards soon grow rapidly, no further 
care than occasional hoeing being 
then bestowed upon them. The 
bulk of roots per acre is enormous, 
many of the specimens measuring 
individually 7 and 8 in. in diameter 
at the shoulder, and 20 to 24 in. 
in length. The variety grown in 
market - gardens is the Hollow- 
crown, a capital sort that produces 
roots from 4 to 6 in. in diameter at 
top, and from 10 to 20 in. in 
length ; and the crowns are, as a 
rule, buried a little below the surface 
soil. Parsnips are not brought to 
market much before November, 
unless the demand for them is 
great and prices high. But from 
that time until the middle of 
February they are in fine market- 
able condition, and, being always 
left in the land where they grow, 
are lifted as required. Being 
thus left undisturbed, they preserve 
their flavour much better than 
they do when lifted and stored 
in pits. 



Uses. — The roots are boiled, and are often used for flavouring 
broth or soup without being eaten. They also form an excellent 
food for horses, and are extensively used for that purpose in 
districts where Parsnips are easily and successfully grown, as in 
Brittany. 

Long Parsnip. — This form, which comes the nearest to the Wild 
Parsnip, is now very little grown. It is characterised by having a 
very long root, often 16 in. in length, deeply sunk in the ground, 
and an elongated conical neck. 

The Improved Brest Parsnip is a thicker and shorter form of the 
old Long Parsnip. It also has a conical neck and a wrinkled skin. 
It has the advantage of being productive, while the roots are more 
easily pulled than those of the old variety ; however, the following 
kind is far superior to it. 

Long Smooth Hollow-crown Parsnip. — A fine strain, some- 
times confounded with the Half-long Hollow-crown, or Student, 
Parsnip, but quite distinct from it, requiring a deeper soil and being 



486 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



also more productive. The full-grown roots are 1 5 in. in length, 
with a diameter of 6 or 7 in. at the top. The leaves grow out of a 
groove surrounded by a raised circular ring on the root. The skin 
is much whiter and smoother than that of the Long Parsnip. 

Half-long Hollow-crown, or Student, Parsnip. — Root hand- 
some, long, thick, very clean skinned, with a fine neck encircled by 




Long Parsnip. Long Smooth Hollow-crown Parsnip, 



a grooved depression, from the centre of which the leaves issue, the 
root being swollen all round it. The root is generally only about 
three or four times as long as broad, and has a smooth white skin,, 
whereas that of the Common Long Parsnip is wrinkled and 
furrowed. It is an excellent and very productive variety. The 
leaves also of the Hollow-crown Parsnip are much smaller and 
fewer for the size of the root. There is as great a difference 
between this variety and the Common Long Parsnip as there is 



PARSNIPS 



487 



between a variety that has been modified and improved by 
cultivation and one that is almost wild. 

The English variety, Sutton's Student, is a superior-flavoured 
local form of it, and Elcombe's Improved is a first-class variety, 
of excellent flavour. i\lthough it is both large enough and hardy 
enough to be grown for cattle-feeding, the Hollow-crown Parsnip is 




Half-long Hollow-crown, or Student, Parsnip. Round Parsnip. 

essentially a table vegetable, and as such it is chiefly cultivated. It 
is not quite so early as the Round Parsnip, but is more productive. 

Round Parsnip. — Root top-shaped, broader than long, often 
5 or 6 in. across and 3 or 4 in. in depth. The leaves of this variety 
are fewer and slighter than those of the Long Parsnips ; the root 
also swells m^uch sooner. It is the best kind for kitchen-garden 
culture. 

PATIENCE DOCK, or HERB PATIENCE 

Rumex Patientia^ L. PolygonacecB. 

French^ Oseille epinard. German, Englischer Spinat. Flemish, Blijvende spinazie. 
Danish, Engelsk Spinat. Italian^ Lapazio. Spanish^ Romaza. Portuguese, Labaga. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — Leaves slender, flat, 
oval-lanceolate, pointed, narrowed abruptly into the leaf-stalk, which 
is long and channelled on the upper surface ; stem 4 to 6J ft. high, 
with ascending branches ; flowers in thick clusters, forming a rather 
close branching panicle at the top of the stem ; seed triangular, 
pale brown, much larger than that of the Common Sorrel. Its 



488 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

germinating power lasts for four years. This species is not so 
acid as the other kinds of Sorrel ; it is exceedingly productive, 




Patience Dock, or Garden Patience. 



and yields a supply of leaves immediately after winter, ten or twelve 
days, at least, before any other kind. It is grown exactly like the 
Common Sorrel. 

PEAS 

Pisum sativum, D.C. Leguminoscs. 

French, Pois. German, Erbse. Flemish and Dutch, Erwt. Danish, Haveoert. 
Italian, Pisello. Spanish, Guisante. Portuguese, Ervilha. 

The Pea is an annual plant, of uncertain origin, but probably 
a native of Central Europe or the mountainous region of Western 
Asia, as it is hardy enough to withstand the winter generally in the 
climate of Paris. The cultivated Pea has slender hollow stems 
which require some support to enable them to grow erect. The 
leaves are compound, pinnate without an odd one, the leaf-stalk 
terminating in several tendrils which take the place of the odd 
leaflet, and enable the plant to climb by attaching themselves to 
any object within their reach. The base of the leaf-stalk is 
surrounded by a very broad clasping stipule, which is larger than 
any of the leaflets. The flowers are produced in the axils of the 
leaves, commencing almost regularly at a certain height from the 
ground in each variety, either in pairs, or often solitary, and very 
rarely three together, at each joint of the stem. The market- 



PEAS 



489 



gardeners about Paris give the name of " mailles " to the flower- 
bearing joints of the Pea-stem, and when they want to describe a 
variety as one-flowered or two-flowered, they say that it "has one or 
two flowers to the ' maille! " The flowers are sometimes white, 
and sometimes violet-coloured, with the wings and keel of a darker 
shade than the standard. The varieties which have coloured 
flowers may be distinguished long before they come into bloom, by 
having a small reddish circle around the stem where it is clasped 
by the stipules. 

The seeds of the violet-flowered Peas are always more or less 
tinged or spotted with brown. When boiled, they turn to an 
unattractive grayish colour, and have a rather strong rough flavour, 
in consequence of which they are not grown for shelling ; only the 
edible-podded sorts are grown for table use. Varieties of Gray Peas 
which have tough leathery pods are only grown for feeding cattle. 

Most of the varieties which are grown for table use have white 
flowers, and the seed also is white or green when ripe. The size 
and weight of the seed vary too much in the different varieties to 
permit us to treat of them here in a general manner, but we shall 
mention these matters in detail in the description of each variety. 
We shall only observe that the germinating power of the seed lasts 
good for three 'years, after which it speedily declines, although 
it is not unusual to find some seeds germinating well after seven 
or eight years. Wrinkled Peas usually do not germinate so well 
as the Smooth-skinned, or round. Peas, nor does their germinating 
power last so long. 

Among the very numerous varieties of Peas, a distinction is 
made between those of which only the seeds, whether green or 
dried, are eaten, and which are termed Shelling Peas, and those 
of which the pods are eaten entire when the seeds are hardly 
formed in them ; these are called Edible-podded, Or Sugar, Peas. 

Among the varieties of Shelling Peas, a distinction is made 
between the Smooth or Round-seeded and the Wrinkled kinds, the 
latter of which are now nearly as numerous as the others. And 
lastly, both the Edible-podded and the Shelling Peas are divided 
into the three classes of Tall, Half-dwarf, and Dwarf Peas {Pois a 
RameSy P. Demi-Nains^ and P. Nains). All these differences, without 
taking into account the green or white colour of the seeds, have 
caused the cultivated varieties of Peas to be grouped into classes or 
sub-divisions, under which we shall describe each kind in succession. 

Culture. *-The cultivation of Peas presents no great difficulty, 
and in the vicinity of Paris and other large towns it is carried on 
in the open fields on a large scale, and usually very profitably. 
The soil in which they are grown should be, as far as possible, well 
drained, rich, and of a medium consistence. The seed is sown in 
drills, from the middle of November to March. The Early Frame 

* See also p. 765. 



490 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Pea {Pois Michaux) is the kind most used about Paris for sowing 
in autumn, on which account it has obtained the name of 
St. Catherine's Pea. These November sowings might also be very 
advantageously made in kitchen-gardens, in which case the seed 
should be sown in a border at the bottom of a wall with a south 
aspect. It is exceedingly early, very dwarf, takes up very little 
room, and there is no need to bend down its stems with laths or 
cross-bars, as was formerly done when, before its introduction, tall 
or half-dwarf varieties were grown in frames. 

Successional sowings in the open air should be made all through 
the spring in order to ensure a continuous supply through the 
summer. After the early varieties, the next sowings consist of tall 
kinds, which are later, more productive, and less liable to suffer 
from mildew during hot weather. The Clamart Pea and the tall 
varieties of Wrinkled Peas are particularly good kinds for late 
sowings, the crop from which comes in at the end of summer or 
early in autumn. 

In kitchen-gardens, tall Peas are staked with branches of trees, 
chestnut-loppings being mostly used for this purpose in the vicinity 
of Paris ; but when grown in the open fields, they are seldom 
staked, on account of the cost of labour which the operation would 
involve. In the absence of stakes, the stems of the Peas are 
pinched off just above the fifth or sixth flower, after which they 
grow sufficiently stiff and firm to support themselves. This 
treatment, however, which answers very well for varieties of 
moderate height, such as the Michaux Peas, does not suit the tall 
kinds, such as the Tall Wrinkled Peas, and these, accordingly, are 
not employed for field culture. 

When Peas are once well up and staked (if they require it), they 
need no further attention except occasional watering in dry weather. 
Transplanting is only practised with very early Peas, which are 
raised in pots in a plant-house or under frames, to be planted out 
as soon as winter is over, and its advantages are not quite certain. 



With every suitable appliance the 
Pea season may extend from the 
beginning of July till the end of 
October, and 1 have, in exceptional 
seasons, gathered Peas as late as 
November loth. But those Peas 
gathered early in May are grown 
under glass, a nd the very late 
Peas are, of course, mainly depen- 
dent upon the season. The best 
months for Peas are June and July. 
In warm situations the produce of 
the early south border begins to turn 



in about the end of May, and green 
Peas are common enough in June, 
but July is the month for excellent 
Marrow Peas. In August and Sep- 
tember, unless the land is good and 
the treatment very liberal and first- 
rate in every respect, the Peas are 
very likely to fall away, and if they 
do not cease to bear, the pods lose 
their fresh green colour, and the peas 
in the pods are infested with 
maggots, and if mildew makes its 
appearance the chapter of ills is 



PEAS 



491 



complete. Most of these evils may be 
successfully combated, as I shall show 
presently. But we will begin with 

The First-Early PEAS.*-These, 
where glass can be had sufficient for 
our needs, will comprise several small 
supplies in pots of some approved 
dwarf kind, which should be sown 
in 8 in. pots in November, and be 
brought on steadily in a pit close 
to the glass with just the smallest 
amount of artificial warmth, as Peas 
do not force well in heat ; and 
therefore it will not do to be impa- 
tient. A steady, regular growth, in 
a very light position, with a tem- 
perature never exceeding 45° to 50° 
at night, will be best. Ventilation 
must be given at every suitable 
opportunity. The first sowing in 
the open air may take place any time 
from the beginning of November till 
March, and the probabilities are that 
if the same kind of Peas be planted 
at both these extreme limits of time, 
there would not be more than ten 
days' difference in the time of gather- 
ing ! But even then the week or ten 
days gained is thought much of. In 
cold, wet districts it is as well not to 
sow till after Christmas, as in such 
situations the early sown crops are 
not unfrequently cut off by cold 
winds. Very often the first early 
Peas are raised under glass, and 
when hardened planted out early in 
March. The seeds of a white 
round early Pea, such as Sangster's 
No. I, are sown in pots or troughs, 
or on sods of turf, and placed in 
heat, where they soon germinate, 
when they are hardened off and 
planted on a warm south border 
the first week in March. A ridge of 
earth is drawn up on each side as a 
shelter, and a few evergreen boughs 
are added as a further protection. 

Mr. Muir advises sowing early 
Peas in cold frames, and not in 
warmer houses or pits : — " I like a 

* See a 



frame about 2 ft. deep better than 
any other structure in which to raise 
early Peas. Fill some hundreds of 
small 3 in. pots half full of soil, 
then put in ten or a dozen seeds, 
finish off with more soil, and place 
them in a frame covered with a good 
sash ; they will soon germinate and 
make fine, sturdy, dark green-leaved 
plants, which may be planted out 
almost at any time without receiving 
the slightest check. If a batch were 
placed in a cold frame and another 
in a warm house at the same time, 
by April the frame ones would be 
by far the best as regards robustness 
and fertility. There is no better 
place than a cold frame in which to 
raise early Peas, and I would advise 
everybody, especially amateurs, to 
try Pea-growing in this way. No 
expense is incurred in getting them 
up or anxiety in getting them put 
out and hardened off, as by judicious 
air-giving on fine days they may be 
grown from the first in a most natural 
way, and induced to pod some weeks 
earlier than any grown wholly in 
the open ground." The second-early 
Peas may be sown at the same time 
as the early kinds, when these are 
not sown before the end of February. 

Succession. — To keep up a 
regular succession, there should be 
frequent sowings ; taking account of 
and giving due weight to the fact 
that all Peas sown during the months 
of January, February, and the first 
half of March will not vary more 
than a week or ten days at the time 
of turning in. There will not be 
much use in making successional 
sowings during these months. As 
a matter of fact, I have often sown 
at intervals of a fortnight or so in 
order to test the matter, and I have 
always found that to obtain a suc- 
cession from first sowing the best, 
plan is to sow at least three or four 
distinct . sorts at the same time^. 
Iso p. 765. 



# 



492 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



including an early kind, a mid-season 
one, and a late variety. After April 
comes in sow the succeeding crop as 
the preceding one is just through 
the ground. The following dates 
may be taken as approximately cor- 
rect. They are founded upon a 
good deal of experience and careful 
note-taking ; and, making due allow- 
ance for the effect of latitude upon 
chmate, and the variations of soil 
and seasons, may be safely acted 
upon. Early white round Peas, 
sown before Christmas, or not later 
than the first week in January, should 
be fit to gather the last week in 
May. Those of a second-early type, 
sown from the end of January 
to the end of February, should 
be fit to gather from June loth 
to 20th ; Huntingdonian and Tele- 
phone, sown from February 20th to 
March loth, should be fit for use 
from June 20th to the middle of 
July, or later. ]Marrow Peas, such 
as Veitch's Perfection and Ne Plus 
Ultra, sown from middle to end of 
March, should be ready about the 
middle of July and onwards. The 
tall Marrows, sown first and third 
week in April and first and third 
week in May, should produce a 
supply from the middle of July till 
the close of the Pea season. But 
most people sow second-earlies once 
or twice in June, and I have had 
the late Marrows do well sown as 
late as the middle of June. As to 
the manner of planting : 

The Late Marrow Peas.* -The 
crop is so important that every 
expedient should be adopted which 
can in any way enable it to pass 
through its difficulties without much 
suffering. Men may be seen labour- 
ing heavily with watering-pots in a 
dry, hot time, when less than half 
the time and labour in preparatory 
work at the right season would 
have given more satisfactory resulrs. 

^ See also p. 766. 



Mark out the sites in Januar}' or 
February, open a trench, and fill 
in with a manurial compost — Peas 
dislike rank manure — of the usual 
decaying matters which accumulate 
about a garden, mixed with a pro- 
portion of manure from the stables 
or pigsty, with a little soot, etc. : 
blend the whole together and work 
into the trench, where the Peas will 
by-and-by be planted. "\Mien this 
is done early in the season, the 
added compost has become mellow 
and in a fit condition for the roots 
of the plants to work among at once. 
As much of the soil taken out of 
the trench may be thrown back and 
worked up with the compost as will 
fill the trench to the original level. 
The bottom of the trench will also 
be stirred up and incorporated. All 
the stations required for the late 
Peas should be got ready at the 
same time, and a stump driven 
down at the end of each row, so 
that when one wants to put in a 
row of Peas all he has to do is to 
place a line along the line of stumps, 
draw a drill about 3 in. deep, and 
plant the Peas. 

Sowing and Gathering. '-The 
large Marrow Peas should be allowed 
room to branch out, not only below 
the surface, as the preparation of 
the site suggested above will pro- 
vide for, but also above the ground, 
as must be pro\^ded for by thin 
planting. From 2 to 3 in. apart 
all over the drill will not be too 
much space to allow : and this will 
necessitate the careful distribution 
of the seeds individually by hand. 
In dry weather the drills should be 
soaked with water, and then covered 
with dry soil drawn from the drills. 
If mice are likely ro be troublesome, 
dress the seeds with red lead, or else 
keep traps set in the neighbourhood 
of the Pea row. To do the late Peas 
justice the rows should be isolated, 
t See also p. 767. 



PEAS 



495 



with other dwarf crops between. 
Mulching with manure is a valuable 
expedient, and, in connection with a 
good preparation of the land at this 
season, should render watering, even 
in the driest weather, unnecessary. 
The mulch, which should consist of 
half-decayed stable manure, should 
be spread on both sides of the rows 
of Peas 1 8 in. or so wide and 3 or 
4 in. thick. Gathering should be 
done carefully, and as soon as they 
are fit for use ; and in many cases 
a second crop of young shoots and 
blossoms will put forth, and a second 
crop of Peas, which will be very 
useful, will be produced. 

Tall and Dwarf Peas.* -Dwarf 
Peas are very useful where sticks or 
supports cannot easily be obtained ; 
but where sticks do not cost much, 
for the main crop tall Peas are best, 
as they are more prolific. In the case 
of all Peas requiring support — and, 
if possible, all Peas, even those of 
dwarf habit, should be supported — 
the sticks should be placed to the 
rows early, and the tops of the sticks 
should be levelled with the shears, 
and the pieces cut off be used be- 
tween the large sticks at the base, 
to prevent the plants straggling 
through, and to give them an up- 
ward tendency. 

Nearly all market-gardeners near 
London grow Peas largely; and 
although French Peas are sent to 
market early in May, and sold at 
cheaper rates than English growers 
could afford to produce them, prefer- 
ence is always given to home-grown 
Peas, for which there is always a 
good demand until about September. 
Until the end of October, however, 
fine examples of the Ne Plus Ultra 
type may be obtained ready shelled 
in the market, the produce in many 
instances of the Surrey fields, Bed- 
fordshire, Essex, and adjoining coun- 
ties, from whence come the greater 

* See a] 



bulk of both early and mid-season 
Peas to Covent Garden. In making 
early sowings it is a practice with 
market-gardeners to choose a fine 
day to break down the ridges 
(the ground having been previously 
manured and cast into ridges), 
measure off the lines and draw drills 
in the forenoon, and to leave them 
open till the afternoon, so that the 
soil in them may dry a little, and 
become thereby warmer ; then to 
sow the seeds and cover all up 
before the evening. The drills vary 
from 2 to 3 1 ft. apart, according to 
the vigour of the sorts which are 
to be sown. In the close lines, 
Lettuces or Spinach are used as 
inter-crops, but in the more distant 
ones Cauhflower is the crop usually 
planted. In many instances, the 
first sowing of Peas is made in 
December on a warm border ; but, 
considering that they must be sown 
a little deeper than in January, and 
the risks to which the seeds are 
liable from mice, birds, insects, and 
damp, it is a much-disputed point 
among good growers whether the 
December sowing has any advantage 
over that made in January, many 
contending that the produce of the 
latter is quite as early as that of the 
former, and the crop less subject 
to risks. Different growers have a 
preference for different kinds; but 
the early dwarf kinds are universally 
the most desired, on account of their 
' quick returns, the small space they 
occupy, and because they require 
no stakes. 

Peas are seldom staked in market- 
gardens, the haulm being allowed 
to lie on the ground. Gathering is 
a matter well attended to, as the 
oftener the pods are picked when 
full the longer do the plants continue 
to bear. Most market-gardeners 
save their own seed, and some grow 
Peas for seed only; in this case 
so p. 767. 



494 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



the haulm is frequently shifted from 
one side of the row to the other in 
order to prevent the pods from rot- 
ting, or from being destroyed by 
snails, and to expose them to the air 



and sun, and thus cause them all to 
ripen alike. When ripe, the haulm 
is pulled up and dried, and taken 
indoors to be cleared of its seed 
during wet weather. 



Uses. — The seeds are eaten boiled, either in the green or the 
dried state, and the young pods of the edible-podded kinds are 
used in the same way. 



SHELLING PEAS 

French, Pois a ecosser. German, Schal-Erbsen. Fle7nish and Dutch, Dop erwten. 
Danish, Skaloerte. Italian, Piselli da sgranare. Spanish^ Guisantes para 
desgranar. Portuguese, Ervilhas de grao. 

L Round or Smooth Peas 

A. Tall Climbing Varieties 
Tall Round or Smooth White-seeded Peas 



First and Best, or Prince Albert, Pea. — Stem slender, 2 to 
over 2\ ft. high, commencing to flower at the fifth or sixth joint, 
and producing from six to eight tiers of pods ; flowers usually 




Prince Albert Pea, 



Pods (natural size). 



SHELLING PEAS 



495 



solitary, white, and of medium size ; pods straight, about 2 in. long, 
somewhat square at the end, each containing from five to seven 
very round peas, which are slightly green or sometimes salmon- 
coloured when ripe. A peculiarity of this variety is that the 
flower, which makes its appearance lowest down on the stem, often 
withers without expanding, and sometimes, when it does open well, 
it is not until after the flower at the joint above it has come out. 
This variety is the earliest of all the kinds commonly grown in 
France. In England a sub-variety, named Dillistones Early, is 
grown, which is three or four days earlier, but the plant is slenderer 
and less productive. The present variety is the best for an early 
crop in the open air. 

Rural New Yorker Pea. — The American variety known 
under the above name comes so very near to the Albert Pea that 
it can scarcely be called a distinct variety. It flowers one or two 
days later than the Albert, but the pods are ready for use at the 
same time. 

Lightning Pea. — A very early variety, 30 to 36 in. high, with 
rather slender single stem, podding close to the soil like all the 
earliest varieties. It resembles somewhat the Prince Albert Pea ; 
and bears usually seven or eight tiers of solitary long-stalked 
flowers. The pods are i\ to 2 J in. long, straight, rounded at the 
end, well filled, containing from six to eight round salmon-coloured 
peas. 

Sangster's No. i, or Improved Early Champion, Pea. — 

Probably the offspring of the First and Best, and somewhat larger 
and more productive, but not quite so early. It usually comes 
into flower two days later. It often produces the pods in pairs, 
and they are somewhat longer and broader than those of the 
preceding kind. The peas are white and round. This variety is 
very liable to degenerate, and it should be very carefully isolated., 
when grown for seed purposes, to keep it true. In the vicinity of 
Paris it is rather extensively grown for market supply. It is not 
so productive as the Early Emperor Pea, but has the advantage of 
coming in four or five days earlier. 

Daniel O'Rourke Pea. — Stem 2 to 2J ft. high ; leaves some- 
what larger, rounder, and lighter coloured than those of Sangster's 
No. I ; flowers white, rather large, solitary, commencing to appear 
at the sixth joint of the stem ; pods somewhat longer and broader 
than those of Sangster's No. i ; peas rather large, becoming a 
greenish white or salmon-colour when ripe. This variety is quite 
as early as the preceding one, and about equally good. The two 
kinds are very closely allied, and are sometimes confused with 
each other, although a well-marked difference may be observed by 
any one who studies them carefully. The Daniel O'Rourke may 
be easily recognised by the stems terminating abruptly above a 



496 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



leaf which is nearly as large as the others, instead of having at 
the end one or two small-sized leaves, as is usually the case in the 
two preceding varieties. 

Very Early May Pea. — Resembles Caractacus, and flowers at 
the same time ; is a little later and more productive. The pods 
are produced in pairs ; and the stems are not above 3 ft. or so in 
height. They bear pods very low down, and have often as many 
as nine tiers of flowers. The pods are from to 3 in. in length, 




Sangster's No. i Pea. Daniel O'Rcurke Pea. 



straight, blunt at the ends, and contain six to eight small 
salmon-coloured seeds. 

Emerald Gem Pea. — Stem 25 to 30 in. high, long and jointed, 
with medium-sized foliage, resembling that of Prince Albert Pea, 
but is a little larger, and besides, both in the stems and pods, has 
a peculiar glazed vivid green colour, without any of that glaucous, 
bluish appearance of the other Peas. The flowers are white, most 
often solitary. The pods are straight, with the same glazed look 
as the other parts. They contain from six to eight medium-sized 
round peas, sometimes slightly wrinkled and of a salmon tinged 
white colour when ripe. 



SHELLING PEAS 



497 



In culture and productiveness it is strikingly like the three 
preceding varieties ; but owing to the peculiarity of colour above- 
mentioned is easily distinguished from all the other Peas. 

Early Emperor, or Double-blossomed, Frame Pea [Pois 
Mzchaux de Hollande).—SiQm something over 3 ft. in average height; 
leaves and stipules larger than those of Sangster's No. i, and 
noticeably darker and more glaucous green in colour ; flowers white, 




Early Emperor Pea, Ruelle Michaux Pea. 



medium-sized, almost always in pairs, and commencing to bloom 
at about the eighth joint of the stem, which usually carries from six 
to eight tiers of them ; pods short, seldom over 2 in. in length, but 
very well filled, each containing eight or nine medium-sized nearly 
round peas, which become very white as they ripen. This variety 
is one of the most suitable for growing in the fields for market 
supply. It is early, very productive, and very hardy. In the 
neighbourhood of Paris it is not usually staked by those cultivators 



32 



498 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



who grow it on a large scale. They sow it in drills about 20 in. 
apart, and leave the plants to themselves. The tendrils of the 
leaves become intertwined, so that a whole drill is like one plant, 
and, should it incline to right or left, the stems turn and grow 
erect, mutually supporting one another. The llowers soon make 
their appearance, when the cultivators pinch the stems above the 
fifth or sixth flower. This forwards the growth of the first pods 
and increases their size. When stakes are scarce, the same might 
be done in kitchen-gardens. 

Ruelle Michaux Pea.— Stem usually simple, rather thick, 3 to 
4 ft. high. The leaves and stipules are much larger than those of 
the preceding kind, and a lighter green. The flowers are very 
white, large, and often solitary. They begin to open at the ninth 
or tenth joint of the stem, which carries about ten tiers of them. 
Pod straight, broad, somewhat blunt at the end, and containing 
seven or eight white, round, large peas. This variety requires a 
little more attention, when growing, than the preceding one. Its 
peas are larger and handsomer, but it is not so early. 

Early Frame Pea {Pois Michaux Ordinaire). — At first sight 
this variety does not seem to differ much from the Early Emperor. 
It might even be described as a sub-variety, which is hardier, a 
little earlier, and continues bearing for a longer time. The leaves 
are exactly like those of the Early Emperor, save that they are a 
little larger ; but the flowers, which are always in pairs, do not 
commence to open before the tenth joint, and the stem carries 
twelve tiers of them. Pods straight, rather narrow and small, but 
very well filled ; peas very round, white, slightly salmon colour, 
and of medium size. This variety is almost always branched ; that 
is, it produces shoots from the axils of the leaves immediately 
under the first flowers, which soon flower themselves. These 
branches or secondary stems grow particularly strong when, from 
any cause, the main stem above them has been either wholly or 
partially destroyed, but they always produce fewer pods than the 
main stem. 

Some years ago a variety was much grown, and still exists 
in certain localities, under the name of White Branching Pea. 
This comes very near the Early Frame Pea, but is especially 
remarkable for the vigorous growth of its secondary shoots, or 
branches, and their abundant and continuous yield of pods. If the 
Early Frame Pea, however, is sown rather thinly, and the pods 
are gathered as soon as they are fit for use, it will yield almost 
as abundantly and as long as the White Branching Pea. 

Leopold IL Pea. — Stem usually simple, about 3 ft. high ; 
leaflets and stipules pale green, finely spotted with gray, oval, and 
rather elongated ; flowers white, almost always produced in pairs, 
and rarely commencing to open before the twelfth joint ; there are 



SHILLING PEAS 



499 



seldom more than six tiers of them on a stem ; pods long, straight, 
pale green, each containing seven or eight white, very round, 
medium-sized peas. This variety comes into flower five or six 




Early Frame Pea. Leopold II. Pea. 



days after the Early Emperor Pea. A peculiarity of it is the 
rapidity with which the pods form and fill. It seldom flowers 
longer than a fortnight, and the pods are all gathered in about the 
same time, after which the plants may be cleared off and replaced 
by something else — a great advantage in market-garden culture. 



500 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Early Clamart Pea.— Stem 4 to 5 ft. high, generally branching 
above the first pods, which are produced at the tenth or twelfth 
joint. The pods are usually in pairs, and are preceded by very 
white medium-sized flowers. They are distinguished from the 
pods of the ordinary Clamart Pea by being somewhat longer, 
paler, and considerably curved. There are, on an average, ten 

tiers of them on a stem. They 
are very well filled, each containing 
from seven to nine peas, which 
very soon swell so large as to 
touch and mutually flatten one 
another on two sides. They retain 
this shape when ripe, at which 
time they become almost wrinkled, 
and white with a faint green tinge. 
This variety comes in almost at 
the same time as the Early Frame 
Pea, and continues to yield nearly 
as long. The two kinds are very 
easily distinguished from each 
other by the difference in the shape 
of the pods and in the shape and 
colour of the peas. 

Etampes Wonder Pea. — Stem 
usually single, long jointed ; leaves 
inclined to be broad, and very 
light green ; stipules exceedingly 
large and broad. In general ap- 
pearance it resembles the Laxton's 
Supreme Pea, but is not quite so 
tall. Flowers generally in pairs, 
commencing to bloom at the tenth 
joint of the stem, large, white, 
often having the standard scalloped 
or toothed on the margin. The 
pods grow very rapidly, and in a 
few days become long, broad, and 
slightly curved towards the end. 
They swell considerably before the 
peas are fully grown, in which respect the plant very much 
resembles Laxton's Supreme ; but the two varieties differ entirely 
in the seed or peas, these being large and green in Laxton's 
Supreme, while in the fitampes Wonder they are medium-sized 
and white. The pods of the latter variety are well filled, each 
generally containing from ten to twelve peas, which become very 
round and white when ripe. The plant usually carries from seven 




Early Clamart Pea. 



SHELLING PEAS 



501 



to twelve tiers of pods. This variety must be classed between 
the Leopold II. and the Scimitar Pea, having the pod of the 
Scimitar and the size and earliness of the Leopold II. It has 
the peculiarity of maturing 
all its pods at about the 
same time. 

White Scimitar Pea 
{Pois cT Auvergne). — Stem 
almost always branching, 
and averaging about 4 ft. 
in height ; leaflets and 
stipules oval, rather pointed, 
light green, sometimes tinged 
with yellow ; flowers almost 
always in pairs, white, 
medium-sized, commencing 
to bloom at about the twelfth 
joint of the stem ; pods 
long and slender, at first 
slightly curved backwards, 
then becoming straight, and 
finally curved forwards in 
the shape of a pruning- 
knife. The concave curved 
line, corresponding to the 
edge of the knife, is that 
along which the peas are 
attached inside the pod. 
This is the front part of 
the pod. The opposite or 
convex part is the " back " 
of the pod, and the peas 
are never attached to the 
pod on that side. The pod 
of the White Scimitar Pea 
is very well filled, and con- 
tains from nine to eleven, 
and sometimes twelve, 
medium-sized peas, which 
are remarkably round, 
rarely flattened, and, when 
ripe, are white, slightly 
tinged with salmon colour. 
This variety comes into flower from eight to ten days later 
than the Early Emperor, and yields a very constant supply 
of pods for more than a month. It is a very good kind, 




^tampes Wonder Pea. 



502 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



remarkable for the fine quality of the peas, and grows well in 
ordinary soil. 

Long-podded Improved Scimitar Pea. — An improved form of 
the White Scimitar, ripening mid-season, not above 4 ft. or so in 
height, with emerald-green leaves, and stems carrying from five to 




White Scimitar Pea (natural size). Sabre Pea. 



seven tiers of long-stalked flowers, produced in pairs. Pods about 
3J in. long, pointed and curved at the end, well filled, containing 
seven or eight small round salmon-coloured peas. 

Sabre Pea. — Stem stout, very often branching, from about 
4 to 4J ft. high ; leaflets and stipules very large, rather round, 



SHELLING PEAS 



503 



somewhat blunt, glaucous and gray-green ; flowers both solitary 
and in pairs, large, white, usually only commencing to bloom at 
the twelfth or fourteenth joint of the stem. The plant comes 
into flower at the same time as the White Scimitar. Pods broad, 
pale green, curved back- 
wards in an opposite 
direction to that of the 
White Scimitar Pea — that 
is, having the peas attached 
along the inside of the 
convex line formed by the 
front of the pod, the back 
of the pod in this variety 
being concave. This Pea 
does not continue bearing 
so long as the White 
Scimitar, its period being 
about three weeks. The 
stem carries ten or more 
tiers of pods. The peas 
are white, large, and some- 
what oblong in shape. 
This variety was some 
years ago in great request 
in the Central Market at 
Paris, but it does not 
appear to be so much in 
favour there at the present 
day. 

Marly Pea.— A vigor- 
ous, often branching plant, 
and in its general appear- 
ance rather like the Ruelle 
Michaux Pea, but almost 
always producing the 
flowers in pairs, and only 
commencing to bloom at 
about the twelfth joint of 
the stem. Pods straight, 
about 3 in. long, each con- 
taining seven or eight large 
round white peas, of a slightly oblong shape, rather like those of 
the preceding variety. The variety is moderately productive and 
early, but is chiefly distinguished for the large size of the peas, as 
are also several other varieties which are closely allied to it, but are 
seldom found in cultivation at the present day. Of these varieties 




Giant Saumur Pea. 



504 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



we may mention the following: — Gouvigny Pea. — The pods of 
this variety are longer and narrower than those of the Marly Pea. 
Lady's-finger Pea. — ^^In this variety the outside of the pods is 
swollen over each of the peas. Lastly, the Square White Pea.— 

The peas in this variety, 
being closely pressed to- 
gether in the pod, are 
usually flattened on two 
sides, like those of the 
Clamart Pea. In their 
habit of growth the three 
varieties just mentioned 
very much resemble the 
Marly Pea. They have 
thick stout stems and very 
large leaves and stipules. 
They come in about the 
same time as the White 
Scimitar — that is, half- 
late. Of the four kinds 
mentioned in this article, 
the Marly Pea is the 
earliest. 

Giant Saumur Pea. — 
A tall late variety, 5 or 
6 ft. in height, resembling 
somewhat the Giant 
Marrow Pea. The stems 
are stout, close-jointed, 
and bear seven or eight 
tiers of flowers produced 
in pairs. The pods are 3 
to 4 in. long, curved, and 
contain from six to nine 
very large, square, salmon- 
coloured or milky white 
seeds. Ripens at about 
the same time as the Late 
Clamart Pea. 

Late Clamart Pea.— 




ite Clamart Pea (natural size). 



Stem tall, tufty, branching, 5 to 6 ft. high ; leaves medium-sized, 
light green, not so glaucous as those of most other varieties ; 
flowers white, medium-sized, almost always in pairs ; pods straight, 
or very slightly curved, of uniform width, and abruptly narrowed 
at both ends. The stem is single up to the fourteenth or fifteenth 
joint, after which it divides into two or three, rarely four, branches. 



The flowers first appear 
at about the sixteenth or 
eighteenth joint. The pods 
are seldom more than about 
2 in. in length ; they are 
generally well filled, and 
the peas are pressed so 
closely together that they 
are quite flat on two sides. 
They retain this shape when 
ripe, and are then white 
or slightly greenish. There 
are usually from five to 
eight peas in each pod. 
The main stem carries from 
seven to nine tiers of pods, 
and the branches have 
seldom more than four tiers. 

Giant Marrow, or 
Royal Victoria, Pea. — A 
very tall variety, 5 to 6 J ft 
high. Stems thick and 
stout ; leaves large, nume- 
rous, light green ; flowers 
white, large, almost always 
in pairs; pods usually com- 
mencing to appear at about 
the fifteenth joint of the 
stem, rather large, broad, 
square at the end, and very 
slightly curved. The stem 
carries about ten tiers of 
pods, and does not usually 
branch. Each pod contains 
from five to seven peas. 
These are somewhat elon- 
gated in shape, white, and, 
when ripe, are flattened or 
more or less hollowed, as 
if they had a tendency 
towards the shape of the 
Wrinkled Peas. This variety 
is one of the latest. It 
comes into flower at the 
same time as the Late 
Clamart Pea. 



5o6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



In England the name of Marrow Peas is applied to all the 
varieties which have very large tender Peas, including the 
Wrinkled as well as the Smooth or Round-seeded kinds. 



Tall Round or Smooth Green-seeded Peas. 

Express Pea. — Stems slender, 23 to about 28 in. in height, 
with light, rounded, glaucous green foliage, and white, solitary 

flowers appearing usually 
from the fifth or sixth joint. 
The pods are straight, 
square at the ends, and 
contain from five to eight 
small, round peas of an 
intense blue-green colour 
when ripe. The Express 
Pea closely resembles the 
Prince Albert Pea, except 
that the colour is more 
glaucous and rather darker, 
and the seed decidedly 
more glaucous. It is also 
three or four days later, 
and more productive. 
Though of recent introduc- 
tion, it is now a favourite 
with growers. 

Blue Alaska Pea.— A 
very early Pea, about 2J ft. 
high, rather taller and 
lighter green than Express, 
but otherwise differing little 
from it. The stems carry 
eight tiers of long-stalked 
solitary flowers. The pods 
are ^ 2\ to i\ in. long, 
straight, rather swollen, 
blunt at the ends, and 
contain usually six green, 
round, or slightly flattened 
peas, a little larger and 
more coloured than those of Express Pea. This variety is better 
suited for dry, warm climates than Express. 

William the First Pea. — A rather slender climbing Pea, 
with slight yellow-green leaves. Stems thin, rather long jointed, 
almost always single, commencing to flower at the seventh or 




Express Pea. 



SHELLING PEAS 



507 



eighth joint, and carrying from seven to ten tiers of pods. Pods 
mostly solitary, dark green, from 2 to nearly 3 in. long, narrow, 
curved like a pruning-knife, generally very well filled, and borne 
on very long stalks. Each pod contains from seven to ten peas, 
of a deep green, very closely pressed against one another, and 

flattened on two sides when 




Early William Pea, Pods (natural size). 



remarkably long time. Its fresh green peas are of a fine colour 
and excellent flavour. In England this variety is one of the most 
highly esteemed of early Peas. 

Early William Pea. — A variety which requires to be staked, 
although scarcely 3 ft. in height. The pods are very large, and 
shortly curved like a pruning-knife. The peas are fairly large, 
angular rather than wrinkled, and dull olive-green. This variety 



5o8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



has been raised by Mr. Laxton, and is one of the best ; it is very 
productive, and as early as Prince Albert, Express, The Shah, etc. 

Green Hundred-for-One Pea.— A vigorous variety, from 3 to 
4 ft. in height, with very glaucous leaves and stems, which con- 
tinue green when dry. The flowers are in pairs, and in seven to 

nine tiers. The pods are 3J 
to 4^ in. long, very glaucous, 
slightly curved, and contain 
from six to eight medium- 
sized, light, ashy green peas. 
It is a half-late and ex- 
tremely productive variety, 
a plant often producing 
twenty pods and over, con- 
taining as many as eight 
seeds in each pod. 

Laxton's Supreme Pea, 
— This variety was one of 
the first raised by Mr. 
Laxton, and it remains one 
of the best. It is hardy, 
rather productive, and re- 
markable for the handsome 
appearance of the pods and 
peas. It quickly came into 
favour with the cultivators 
around Paris soon after its 
introduction in 1869. Stem 
about 4i ft. high, usually 
simple and glaucous ; leaflets 
and stipules rather large, and 
pale yellow-green ; flowers 
generally solitary, green at 
first, then white, and com- 
mencing to bloom at about 
■ the twelfth joint of the stem, 
which usually carries from 
six to eight tiers of them ; 
pods from about 3 to nearly 
4 in. long,dark green, straight, 
with a short and abruptly curved point ; peas large, somewhat 
oblong in shape, sometimes misshapen from the great pressure 
which they undergo in the pods, and remaining of a dark green 
colour after they are ripe. This variety comes into flower a day 
or two earlier than the White Scimitar Pea, but does not continue 
bearing so long, usually not longer than three weeks. Peculiar to 




Laxton's Supreme Pea. 



SHELLING PEAS 



509 



this Pea is the manner in which the pods swell, long before the 
peas attain any size, and, while these are very small, becoming 
inflated to such an extent that the width is greater than the depth. 

Three-podded Pea« — A late variety, with stout stems, about 
4 ft. in height bearing five or six tiers of flowers, mostly produced in 




Tall Three-podded Pea. Tall Squaie Mammoth, or Normandy, Pea. 



bunches of three at the tops of the stalks and set freelv; the pedicels 
often provided with a foliaceous and toothed bractea. ' The pods are 
small, thin, 2h to si in. long, pointed, much curved at the end, well 
filled with eight or nine small, round, smooth, bluish green peas. 

Tall Square Mammoth, or Normandy, Pea.— Stems thick, 
very stout, almost always branching, from 5 to 6J ft. high ; leaves 



510 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



large, rather closely set, and of a dark, somewhat glaucous, green ; 
flowers largish, always in pairs, of a greenish white colour ; pods 
very broad, between 2 and 3 in. long, very slightly curved, and 
narrowed from the middle to both ends. They do not commence 
to appear lower than at about the eighteenth to twentieth joint of 
the stem. Each branch seldom carries more than five or six tiers 
of pods, but, as the plant usually has three or four branches, the 
produce is considerable. Each pod generally contains from four to 
six peas, which are large, very much flattened at the sides, some- 
what wrinkled, and of a grayish 2;reen colour when ripe. 



Bishop's Early Dwarf Pea {Pois Nam Hdtif, Pois Leveque), — 
A dwarf, yet not very dwarf, variety, 20 in. to 2 ft. high. Stem 



Bishop s Early Dwarf Pea. Pod (natural size), branches which are often 



Bishop's Long-pod Pea.— This variety seldom grows higher 
than from 20 in. to 2 ft., the stem having one or two branches 
immediately below the twelfth joint, at which place the flow^ers 
usually commence to appear. Flowers white, medium-sized, open- 
ing not very freely, and as often solitary as in pairs ; pods rather 
long — 3 in. or more— straight, somewhat pointed, each containing 



B. Half-Dwarf Varieties 



Smooth or Round White-seeded Peas 




rather thick-set, thin at the 
base, and somewhat zigzag in 
growth ; leaves medium-sized, 
and rather dark green ; stipules 
rather small than large, and 
very much toothed at the base ; 
flowers white, medium-sized, 
sometimes solitary and some- 
times in pairs, commencing 
to open at about the tenth 
or eleventh joint of the stem ; 
pods comparatively large and 
broad, from about 2 to over 
3 in. long, slightly curved, each 
usually containing from five 
to seven peas, which are white, 
sometimes green, large, and 
slightly square in shape. The 
stem usually carries seven or 
eight tiers of pods, and 
occasionally has one or two 



sterile. 



SHELLING PEAS 



from six to eight peas, which are nearly round, pale green, becoming 
white, quite round, and of medium size when ripe. This variety is 
about as early as the preceding one, from which it differs but little. 
Both are very good kinds for a main crop in the open air. 

Dwarf Dutch Pea {Pois nain ordinaire). — A dwarf, compact- 
growing kind, seldom exceeding from 20 in. to 2 ft. in height. 
Stems rather slender, zigzag in growth, with numerous closely set 
joints, and usually branching ; leaves numerous, small, stiff, and 




Bishop's Long-pod Pea. Dwarf Dutch Pea. 



at the end, very slightly curved, each containing from six to 
eight peas, which are very closely pressed against one another, 
and are consequently flattened on two sides when ripe. They 
are remarkably small, somewhat angular in shape, and of a slightly 
green tint. The main stem carries about eight tiers of pods, and 
the branches have from two to four tiers each. This variety has 
a remarkably compact appearance when growing, and the very 
numerous white flowers are effectively relieved by the very green 
and tufted foliage. 



512 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Early Dwarf Clamart Pea.— A nearly dwarf variety, scarcely 
over 2 ft. or as much as 2j ft. in height, and erect enough to 
dispense with stakes. The pods are numerous, in pairs, and of 
medium size, slightly curved, and well filled. The peas are square, 
large, tender, and sugary. It is half-early, coming in immediately 
after the early sorts ; it is a good Pea for field culture. 

Smooth or Round Green-seeded Peas 

Imperial Dwarf Blue Pea.— A half-dwarf kind, from 2 to 2} ft. 
high. Stem stout, rather thick-set, and of zigzag growth, especially 

at the base ; leaves rather slender, with 
oval-pointed leaflets, of light green colour, 
entirely free from any glaucous tint or 
grayish markings; flowers usually in pairs, 
almost green, commencing to bloom at 
about the twelfth joint of the stem, and 
above one or two branches which are 
seldom of any great size ; pods about 
2 in. long, rather narrow, well filled, faintly 
curved like a pruning-knife blade, each 
containing six or seven peas, which, when 
ripe, are large and closely pressed against 
one another. They continue quite green, 
and are generally very full, but slightly 
square or angular. The main stem carries 
from six to eight tiers of pods, and the 
branches rarely have more than three 
tiers. This variety may be infallibly 
distinguished from all others, when it 
comes into bloom, by the peculiar, almost 
green, colour of its flowers, which, even 
when quite fully expanded, are veined 
Imperial Dwarf Blue Pea. and tinged with green, like the un- 
expanded flowers of all kinds of Peas. 
Laxton's Fillbasket Pea. — A half-dwarf kind, 2 J to 3 ft. high. 
Stem rather thick-set, short jointed, often producing two or three 
branches which grow nearly as tall as the main stem, and generally 
issue from about the tenth or twelfth joint. The first flowers 
appear at about the thirteenth or fourteenth joint, and are greenish 
white and often solitary. The main stem carries six or seven tiers 
of them, and the branches only from three to five tiers. Pods 
about 3^ in. long, rather narrow, curved like a pruning-knife blade, 
very much pointed at the end, and exceedingly well filled, each 
containing from seven to ten peas, .which are dark green, large, 
square, and, when ripe, a clear, pale green. This variety is easily 




SHELLING PEAS 



513 



distinguished by its leaves being a light yellow green, narrow, 
slight, and very much waved at the edges, especially those at the 
top of the stem. 

Gladiator Pea. — A half-dwarf variety, with stems 27 or 28 in. 

high, with two or three 
branches carrying six or seven 
tiers of short-stalked flowers 
usually produced in pairs. 
The pods are curved, 3 to 
4 in. long, and well filled, 
with seven or eight round 
dark green, fairly large, and 




Laxton's Fillbasket Pea. 



Dwarf Blue Prussian Pea (natural size"). 



slightly wrinkled peas. A half-early, productive variety, rather 
like Fillbasket. 

Dwarf Blue Prussian Pea. — A half-dwarf variety, from 2 ft 
to 2 ft 4 in. high, thick-set, and very branching. Leaves rather 
large, rounded, and glaucous ; stipules very much blotched with 

33 



514 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



gray ; stem stout, of zigzag growth, with very close joints, be- 
ginning to branch at the fourth or fifth joint, and showing the first 
flowers at about the tenth joint ; flowers white, medium-sized, 
sometimes soHtary, but most usually in pairs ; pods broad, between 
2 and 3 in. long, slightly pointed at the end, and seldom very well 
filled, each usually containing not more than five or six peas, which 
are large, very much flattened, slightly irregular in shape, and of 
a pale green, bluish when ripe. The stem generally carries seven 
or eight tiers of pods, and the principal branches have four or five 
tiers. This is a very hardy and productive variety, but rather late 
than early. It is grown on a large scale for the dried peas, which 
are usually met with in commerce under the name of Green 
No)' on Pea. 

Blue Beauty Pea. — Quite dwarf, very branching, not much 
over 1 5 in. in height, and inclined to lie down. The pods are 
rather short, broad, with rounded, slightly oblong peas, of a 
glaucous almost blue colour when ripe. It is remarkable for the 
beauty and size of its peas. 



C. Dwarf Varieties 
Smooth or Round White Peas 



Early Dwarf Frame Pea. — Stem exceedingly short, seldom 
more than from 8 to lo in. high ; joints very close ; leaflets and 

stipules rounded, dark green, finely 
marbled with a gray tinge ; flowers 
white, very small, usually solitary, 
commencing to bloom at the seventh 
joint, seldom opening fully, and often 
not extending outside of the leaves ; 
pods about 2 in. long, straight, rather 
slender, nearly square at the end, and 
ver>^ like those of the Prince Albert 
Pea, each containing seven or eight 
white, round, medium-sized peas. 
Though dwarf, it is rather productive, 
excellent for frame culture, and only two or three days later than 
Sangster's No. i. 

Dwarf Very Early Annonay Pea. — Stems very short, the 
joints pretty close, less, however, than in the preceding. The 
flowers are small, white, and short stalked, making their appearance 
at the sixth or seventh joint. The pods and seeds are like those 
of the Early Dwarf Frame Pea. It may be grown under glass, but 
is well suited for open ground cultivation. 




Early Dwarf Frame Pea 
(^ijj natural size). 



SHELLING PEAS 



515 



Couturier Dwarf Pea.— Stems short, very branching, with 
small gray-green leaves. The flowers are white, usually in pairs. 




Couturier Dwarf Pea. 

commencing to bloom at the eighth 
joint of the stem. The pods are 
small, straight, thin, short, but well 

filled. The 





Pods (natural size). 



Very Dwarf Brittany Pea. 



Peas are 
round, and 
regular in 
shape; 

when ripe quite smooth, and slightly 
tinged with salmon colour, like those 
of the Scimitar Pea, which they re- 
semble, except that they are smaller. 
It is midway in earliness between the 
two preceding and the Brittany Dwarf. 

Very Dwarf Brittany Pea. — A 
ver>' dwarf Pea, with slender, rather 
dark green leaves. Stems very short 
jointed, of zigzag growth, commencing 
to flower at about the twelfth joint. 
The two joints immediately below 
generally produce branches which are 
often sterile. Flowers in pairs, white, 
well opened, but very small ; pods 
seldom over 2 in. long, dark green, very 
slender, and slightly curved like a 
pruning-knife blade, each containing 
from five to seven peas, which are 



5i6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



square from pressure and fill the pods completely. The main 
stem carries from six to ten tiers of pods, and the branches 
seldom have more than two tiers. This variety is about as early 
as the Early Frame Pea. The peas, when ripe, are small, squarish, 
slightly tinged with salmon colour, and sometimes green. 

MacLean's Blue Peter Pea. — A very dwarf variety, but not 
so compact in growth as the Early Dwarf Frame Pea. The joints 
of the stem are longer, being 
about equal in length to the 
stipules. Leaves a very dark 
glaucous green, those at the end 
of the stem being very much 
reduced in size, closely crowded 
together, and a very dark green ; 
flowers rather small and slightly 
tinged with green, sometimes 
solitary and sometimes in pairs, 
and commencing to bloom at 
the seventh or eighth joint of 
the stem, two or three days later 
than the Early Dwarf Frame 




MacLean's Blue Peter Pea. 




Pods (natural size). 



Pea; pods rather broad, a little over 3 in. long, each containing from 
five to eight peas, which are somewhat oblong in shape, very large, 
and, when ripe, retain their pale green, slightly bluish, tint. Owing 
to its dwarf size this variety may be used as an edging like the 
Early Dwarf Frame Pea, to which it is superior in productiveness. 

Pride of the Market Pea. — A dwarf variety, with thick, 
short, pretty close-jointed stems ; the leaves, especially the stipules, 
are very large, of almost yellow-green colour. The flowers are a 
greenish white, solitary, hidden amongst the foliage, commencing 



SHELLING PEAS 



517 



to show themselves at the eighth or tenth joints. The pods are 
solitary, irregular, but large, equalling almost those of the Telephone 
Pea in size. The seed is very large, oblong, flattened, often slightly 
depressed on one or two sides, but not wrinkled, and in colour a bluish 




Pride of the Market Pea. Purple Podded Pea. 



green sometimes tinged with darker green at maturity. When 
grown under conditions that are favourable, it is a very fine variety, 
but it is better for kitchen-garden than field culture, owing to the 
great size of its foliage and the time of its maturity, which makes it 
liable to suffer from the heat and drought of the summer, for 
which reason it succeeds better in sheltered gardens. 



5i8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Purple-podded Pea. — A curious but not very useful variety, with 
dark purple-coloured pods. The seed is large, gray-green, becoming 
brown when cooked, which lessens its value for table use. The pods, 
when boiled, lose their purple colour, and become almost green, but 
they are tough and leathery, and uneatable even before they are 
fully grown. 

II. Wrinkled Peas 

Pois rides 

A. Tall Climbing Varieties 



White-seeded Peas 




Gradus Pea. 



Gradus Pea. — A 

fine early Pea with stems 
2j to nearly 3 ft. high, 
carrying four or five tiers 
of solitary flowers. The 
pods are large, straight 
or slightly curved, about 
4^ in. long, and contain 
from five to seven large 
wrinkled white or slightly 
green Peas. This is the 
earliest of all wrinkled 
Peas, and is remarkable 
for the great size and 
fine appearance of its 
pods. 

Laxton's "The 
Shah" Pea.— A climb- 
ing Pea with a very 
slender stem, which is 
almost always single or 
with one or two small 
branches, and rather long 
jointed. Leaves slight, 
light green, tinged with 
gray ; stipules a little 
darker than the leaves, 
and distinctly marked 
with gray blotches ; 
flowers white, medium- 
sized, solitary, or rarely 
in pairs, and commencing 
to bloom at the sixth 
or seventh joint of the 
stem ; pods very slender 



SHELLING PEAS 



519 



at first, about 2 in. long, quite square at the end, and becoming very 
much swollen before ripening, each containing from five to seven 
peas, which are very closely pressed together, and consequently 
flattened at the sides, and, 
when ripe, are square in ^ 
shape, very much wrinkled, 
and pure white. The stem 
usually carries six or seven 
tiers of pods. In all its 
characteristics of growth, 
habit, and foliage, this 
variety comes very close 
to Sangster's No. i Pea, 
but differs from it entirely 
in the appearance of the 
seeds or peas. It was raised 
by Mr. Laxton, about the 
year 1875. 







Laxton's "The Shah" Pea (natural size). 



Telephone Pea. 



Carter's Telephone Pea. — A climbing Pea, from about 3 to 4 ft. 
high. Leaves very large, pale yellow-green, veined and marbled with 
white; stipules quite remarkable for their large size; stem generally 
simple, but occasionally with one or two branches, rather long jointed, 



520 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



and commencing to flower at about the twelfth joint ; flowers 
white, rather large, and often solitary ; pods very large and broad, 
sometimes 4 in. long, straight, and slightly curved towards the end 

like the blade of a pruning-knife, 
rather swollen, each containing 
from eight to ten very large green 
peas, square in shape, and, when 
ripe, either perfectly white or more 
or less tinged with green. This 
variety is a little later than Lax- 
ton's Supreme, and a plant seldom 
carries more than eight pods. 

Colossus Pea. — A tall, 
vigorous half-early Pea, nearly 

5 ft in height, with very light 
green leaves and branching stems, 
bearing five or seven tiers of 
flowers, mostly in pairs. The 
pods very large, 3 to 4 in. long, 
flattened, straight, rounded at the 
end, containing eight or ten large, 
white or greenish, somewhat flat- 
tened and slightly wrinkled peas. 
It is remarkable for the beauty 
of its pods. In the Paris market 
the large-podded Peas have of 
late years found more favour, and 
the demand for them is steadily 
increasing. 

Knight's Tall Marrow Pea. 
— A tall-growing late variety, 

6 J ft. or more high. Stems rather 
strong, but not very thick, long 
jointed, unbranched up to the 
twelfth joint, and commencing 
to flower at about the sixteenth 
joint ; flowers white, very large, 
almost always in pairs; pods long 
stalked, large, broad, perceptibly 
curved, and from about 2 to over 
3 in. long. The main stem carries 
from eight to ten tiers of pods, 
and the branches from three to 

five tiers. It is to be remarked that the joints immediately below 
the first flower do not all produce branches, and that the same stem 
does not usually produce more than two. Each of the pods contains 




Knight's Tall Marrow Pea. 



SHELLING PEAS 



from six to eight large elongated peas, which, when ripe, become 
very much wrinkled, almost flat, and generally white or tinged with 
green. In this variety one of the two flowers in the pairs is often 
accompanied by a small rounded leafy bract at the base. 

Tall Wrinkled Large White, or British Queen, Pea. — A very 
tall Pea, often over 6 ft. in height, with thick, branching, long-jointed 
stems, and leaves and stipules very large, smooth and of a whitish 
green faintly tinged with gray-green. The flowers are white, large, in 
pairs. The seed is large, oblong, and white and wrinkled at maturity. 
It is a very vigorous, productive variety, producing peas of great size 
and quality. Like the Wrinkled Knight Pea, it requires extra long 
stakes. 

Tall Wrinkled Green-seeded Peas 



Laxton's Alpha Pea. — This variety very much resembles Prince 




Laxton's Alpha Pea. TaU Green Wrinkled Marrow Pea. 



522 




Albert in height, 
habit of growth, and 
earhness, but is dis- 
tinguished from it 
by the paler and 
yellower tint of the 
leaves. The flowers 
are generally soli- 
tary, but occasion- 
ally in pairs, and 
begin to open at 
the seventh or eighth 
joint of the stem. 
Pods very long 
stalked, rather 
pointed, and very 
slightly curved, 
about 2 in. long, 
each 
from 



peas, 
small, 



Duke of Albany Pea. 



six to eight 
which are 
very much 
wrinkled, and re- 
maining green when 
ripe. A stem carries 
from five to seven 
tiers of pods. This 
Pea is one of the 
best known and most 
extensively cultiva- 
ted of the varieties 
raised by Mr. Lax- 
ton, whose name we 
have had frequent 
occasion to mention. 

Tall Green 
Wrinkled Marrow 
Pea. — A very tall, 
strong plant, with 
thick stems some- 
times over 6 ft. in 
height, usually in 
two branches and 
flowering only at the 
twelfth joint. The 
flowers are white, 



SHELLING PEAS 



523 



large, often solitary. The pods, which are very large, do not 
swell much even when nearly fully grown. They contain from six 
to nine very large light green peas, which become white and 
wrinkled at maturity. 

Duke of Albany Pea.— A tall, stout-stemmed Pea, 4 J ft. or 
even more in height. The flowers commence to bloom at the 
twelfth joint, generally in pairs. The pods are very long, 4 to 6 in., 
smooth, dark green, slightly curved at the end, cylindrical when 
fully grown, well filled with ten or eleven very large peas, which 
are slightly oblong in shape, and wrinkled when ripe ; of a dark 
green colour, but lighter if allowed to mature properly. A very 
good and handsome variety, only rivalled by the Telephone as 
an exhibition Pea. 



B. Half-dwarf Varieties 

White Wrinkled Peas 

White Eugenie Dwarf Wrinkled Marrow Pea. — A half- 
dwarf variety, 2 ft. to 2 ft. 8 in. high. Stem rather slender, almost 
always unbranched, commencing to flower extremely low, often at 
the fifth joint ; flowers 
white, medium - sized, 
always solitary towards 
the lower part of the 
stem, and often in pairs 
a little higher up ; pods 
rather variable in size, 
usually 2 or 3 in. long, 
pointed towards the end, 
slightly curved like the 
blade of a pruning-kniie, 
and very unequally filled, 
those at the lower part 
of the stem often con- 
taining but one pea, and 
seldom more than three 
or four, while later pods 
will often have seven or 
eight. While in the green 
or unripe state, the peas 
are large, square, and 
somewhat flattened at the 
sides; when ripe, they are 
v^ery wrinkled, unequal in 
size, and a salmon tinted white. The stem carries from twelve 
to fifteen tiers of pods. This would be one of the most 




White Eugenie Dwarf Wrinkled Marrow Pea. 



524 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



productive early varieties if the first pods were better filled. It 
will bear for six weeks or more if the pods are gathered as 
they become fit. 

Green Wrinkled Peas 

Knight's Dwarf Green Wrinkled Marrow Pea. — This variety 
only differs from the White Eugenie Wrinkled Pea in having the 
leaves somewhat marbled and undulated, and the peas pale green. 




Knight's Dwarf Green Wrinkled Marrow Pea MacLean's Best of All Pea 

(natural size). (natural size). 

It exhibits precisely the same characteristics of growth as the 
White Eugenie Pea, and especially the peculiarity of the lower 
pods being usually small and badly filled, while those growing from 
the middle of the stems are much larger and generally well filled. 
It is very difficult to obtain this variety quite pure at the present 



SHELLING PEAS 



525 



time, and among the numerous varieties which resemble it, and 
which are often sold for it, there is, perhaps, not one that possesses 
the sam.e combination of good qualities, and especially such great 
earliness along with such very great and continuous productiveness. 

MacLean's Best of All Pea.— This is a half-dwarf kind, 
growing about 2j ft. high, 
very thick set, and with a 
short-jointed stem. Leaves 
stiff, medium-sized, and of 
very dark glaucous green ; 
flowers medium-sized, white, 
in pairs ; pods broad, from 
3 to nearly 4 in. long, 
gradually narrowed at both 
ends, and usually not com- 
pletely filled ; stems simple 
to the eighth or ninth joint, 
then producing three or four 
branches, and bearing the 
first pods at about the twelfth 
joint. The main stem carries 
from five to seven tiers of 
pods, and the branches have 
seldom more than two or 
three tiers. Each pod con- 
tains from three to eight 
very large peas, oval in shape, 
and, when ripe, very wrinkled, 
much flattened, and a pale 
gray-green. This is a pro- 
ductive, half-late variety, of 
good quality. 

G. F. Wilson Pea.— A 
half-dwarf variety, growing 
from 2 to 2j ft. high. Stem 
thick and. stout ; leaves 
very large, glaucous green, 
especially remarkable for the 
great size of the stipules and 
the absence of gray spots ; 
flowers white, rather large, 
generally in pairs, but often solitary also, and commencing to open 
at about the tenth joint of the stem ; pods from about 2J to over 
3 in. long, at first very flat and exceedingly broad, but becoming 
narrower as the peas increase in size. The stem carries from six to 
eight tiers of pods. They are seldom very well filled, each usually 




G. F. Wilson Pea. 



526 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



containing not more than five or six peas, but these, it is true, are 
nearly as large as field-beans ; they are oblong and somewhat flat 
in shape, and, when ripe, exceedingly wrinkled, flat, and a pale 
green. The thickness and strength of the stalks which bear the 
pods are a particularly distinctive characteristic of this variety. 



C. Dwarf Varieties 

White-seeded Wrmkled Pea 

Chelsea Gem Pea. — A very dwarf, hardy, early Pea, resembling 
Laxton's William Hurst in every respect, except that it has 
white seed. 



Green-seeded Wrinkled Peas 

American Wonder Pea. — An exceedingly dwarf variety, seldom 
growing more than lo in. high. Stem short, stiff, usually single, 
or only branching at the neck, 
and bearing rather large, rounded 
dark green, slightly glaucous 
leaves ; flowers small, white ; pods 
sometimes in pairs, but mostly 
solitary and commencing to appear 
about the seventh or eighth joint 
of the stem, which seldom carries 
more than five tiers of pods. 
These are straight, very much 
swollen, 2 in. or more in length, 
comparatively broad, and exceed- 





American Wonder Pea. 



Pods (natural size). 



ingly well filled, each containing from six to eight large flat peas 
which, when ripe, become very much wrinkled, rather flat, and 
a pale bluish green. 



SHELLING PEAS 



527 



Eng-lish Wonder Pea. — A dwarf Pea, not much over 14 in. in 
height, with short and very branching stem bearing five or six tiers 
of flowers in pairs. The pods are medium-sized, straight, rounded 
at the end, and well filled with from six to eight rather small, 
flattened, wrinkled green peas. In productiveness this variety is 
both abundant and prolonged, and its quality is of the best. 

Witham Wonder Pea. — Very dwarf, much like the English 
Wonder Pea, but not usually more than 11 or 12 in. in height. 
It is half-early. The stems are thick, branching, bearing pods near 
the soil, and five or six tiers of flowers in pairs. The pods are thin, 
between 3 and 4 in. long, curved at the end, well filled with eight 
or nine rather small, much flattened, wrinkled green peas. A very 
productive variety, and of excellent quality. 

William Hurst Pea. — Stems short, irregular, and close jointed ; 
the leaves and stipules small, oblong, rather stiff, of an ash-green 
colour. Though small, it is a vigorous and sturdy variety. The flowers 
are small, white, solitary, or in pairs, and start from the eighth joint 
upwards. The pods are thin, fairly long, much curved, and contain 
six to eight medium-sized glaucous green and, when ripe, much- 
wrinkled peas. One of the best dwarf sorts for the kitchen-garden 
as well as the field. 

Stratagem Pea. — Very like the Pride of the Market 
Pea, the only difference between the two being that in the 
Stratagem Pea the foliage is a more vivid green, and the seed 
wrinkled. 

EDIBLE-PODDED, or SUGAR, PEAS 

French^ Pois sans parchemin. German, Zucker-Erbsen. Dutch, Peulen. Italian, Piselli 
di guscio tenero. Portuguese, Ervilhas de casca. 

In all the varieties of Peas of which we have hitherto spoken, the 
pod is lined on the inside with a thin but hard and tough membrane, 
which, contracting as the pod ripens and dries, causes it to open into 
two equal parts, which become twisted spirally and often project 
the peas to some distance. We are now about to describe a class 
of varieties the pods of which are destitute of this membrane, and 
consequently always soft and tender, and do not open when ripe, 
so that they may be eaten entire, the tender fleshy part of the pod 
becoming more fully developed in the absence of the tough 
parchment-like membrane. 

A. Tall Climbing Varieties 

Forty Days Edible-podded Pea. — A climbing variety, from 
3J to 4J ft. high. Stems slender, rather long jointed, and com- 
mencing to flower at about the fifth or sixth joint ; flowers usually 



528 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



in pairs, white, and rather large ; pods straight, slender, somewhat 
pointed at the end, very free from membrane, each containing from 
six to eight medium-sized peas, rounded or slightly compressed in 
shape, round and white when ripe. This variety very seldom 
branches, but carries from fifteen to eighteen tiers of pods, which 
are produced in succession, so that some of them may be quite ripe 

and dry at the base of the 
plant, while flowers continue 
to appear on the upper part 
of the stem. The flowering 
is often prolonged for more 
than two months. 

Tall Early Large-pod 
Sugar Pea. — Raised at 
Verrieres by crossing the 
Forty Days Edible-podded 
Pea with the Large Crooked 
Sugar Pea. It is a tall Pea, 
but not so tall as its two 
parents, stakes 3 ft. 3 in. long 
being quite sufficient for it. 
The flowers are white, usually 
solitary, the pods long, broad, 
and very fleshy, resembling 
those of the Crooked Sugar 
Pea. The seeds are very 
large, round and white. In 
earliness it comes between 
the two varieties from which 
it has sprung. The pods are 
fit for use even when they 
are quite fully grown. Like 
the Crooked Sugar Pea it 
produces as a rule only soli- 
tary pods ; but it begins to 
bloom near to the ground and 
may thus carry quite a number 
of tiers of pods, without re- 
quiring extra long stakes. 
Tall Butter Sugar Pea. — This variety is very clearly distin- 
guished from all other kinds of Edible-podded Peas by the swollen 
appearance of the pods, which very soon grow to be thicker than they 
are broad They are from 2 to nearly 3 in. long, and the sides, which 
are very fleshy and succulent, are nearly i of an inch thick. The 
pods are pretty deeply curved, and are sometimes solitary, but most 
usually in pairs. The stems grow from 3 J to about 4 ft. high, and are 




Forty Days Edible-podded Pea. 



EDIBLE-PODDED, OR SUGAR, PEAS 529 



rather slender and long jointed. The leaves are of a rather dark 
green, with whitish veins, and are almost devoid of spots. The 
flowers, large and white, are only solitary at the base and at the top 
of the stem. The stalks which bear the pods are slender, very stiff, 
and of medium length. Owing to the great thickness of the sides 
or walls of the pods, they do not bulge with the swelling of the 
peas, as is the case with most other varieties of Edible-podded Peas. 
The peas are white, very 
round, and rather large. 
This variety is almost 
as early as the Ruelle 
Michaux Pea. In the 
growth of the pod of 
the Butter Pea, as in the 
Edible-podded Peas in 
general, the soft portion 
or parenchyma of the 
pod seems to develop at 
the expense of the parch- 
ment-like membrane, 
which is wholly wanting. 
There is, however, this 
difference between the 
pod of the Butter Pea 
and those of all other 
Edible - podded kinds, 
that it is the thickness 
or depth of the pod which 
takes on the greatest 
development, while in 
the other kinds, as, for 
example, the Large 
Crooked Sugar Pea and 
the Giant Sugar Pea, it 
is the breadth of the pod 
which is enlarged. 

Tall Green-seeded 
Sugar Pea. — A very productive variety raised in Brittany. The 
stem is stout, about ft. high, bearing the pods pretty high 
up, in five or six tiers and in pairs. The pods are thin, 2\ to 
2f in. long, not very fleshy, but free from membrane, and contain 
six to eight small, round, quite green, smooth or very slightly 
wrinkled peas. A late variety, remarkable for its abundant and 
prolonged production 

Large Crooked, or Scimitar, Sugar Pea {Pois Come de Belier), 
— A tali climbing variety, 4 to over 4J ft. high. Stem of medium 

34 




Tall Early Large-pod Sugar Pea. 



530 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



i 



from 
large 
some 



thickness, usually branching, long jointed ; leaves rather large, 
a pale yellow-green ; flowers white, very large, well opened, 
commencing to blocm at the twelfth or thirteenth joint of the 

stem, and almost always 
solitary ; pods very large, 
whitish, entirely free from 
membrane, often twisted, 
whence the variety derives 
its name, sometimes from 
4 to nearly 5 in. long 
and I in. or more broad, 
each usually containing 
five to eight rather 
round peas, set at 
distance from one 
another, and very pale 
green, becoming white and 
perfectly round when ripe. 
The main stem usually 
carries from eight to ten 
tiers of pods, and the 
branches have only from 
three to five tiers. This is 
an exceedingly productive 
variety. It comes in in 
mid-season, commencing 
to yield soon after the 
Forty Days Ed ible-podded 
Pea, but continuing to 
bear for a much longer 
time, and the size and fine 
appearance of its pods 
cause it to be always more 
sought after than any other 
kind, so that it is more ex- 
tensively grown than any 
other variety of Edible- 
podded Peas, especially in 
the eastern parts of France 
and in Switzerland. It is 
rather surprising to see 
the comparatively low 
estimation in which the 
Edible-podded peas are held in the vicinity of Paris. 

Two different forms are grown under the same name of Large 
Crooked Sugar Pea. The commonest is that just described. The 




Tall Butter Sugar Pea (natural size) 



EDIBLE-PODDED, OR SUGAR, PEAS 531 



other, sometimes known as the Lyons variety, is not quite so tall, 
is five or six days earlier, and the pods are generally solitary, 
but large and very fleshy. 

Melting Saint - Desirat 
Pea. — An excellent and 
beautiful Pea. It resembles 
a Scimitar Sugar Pea, ex- 
cepting that it is straight- 
podded. The pods are very 
large, tender, thick, fleshy, 
swelling long before the seed 
is fully developed. 

Giant Very Large- 
Podded Sugar Pea. — A 
climbing variety with large, 
broad, light-coloured leaves. 
Stems tinged with purple, 
and usually from 3 J to 4 J ft. 
high; flowers purplish, some- 
times solitary and sometimes 
in pairs ; pods very large, 
pale green, very much twisted, 
sometimes over 6 in. in 
length and more than i in. 
broad. The two sides or 
halves of the pod are 
generally, as it were, glued 
together, with no space be- 
tween them except that 
which is completely filled 
by the peas, the positions of 
which are distinctly marked 
on the outside of the pod, 
where it bulges over each 
pea. Each pod contains 
from six to ten large peas, 
slightly angular or flattened 
in shape, and light green 
in colour, turning to gray 
finely spotted with brown- 
red when ripe. The main 
stem carries from six to 
eight tiers of pods, and the 
branches, which are usually two or three in number, have hardly 
half that number. The pods of this variety are best for table 
use when young, as when they are near ripening both they and 




Pods of Large Crooked, or Scimitar, 
Sugar Pea (natural size). 



532 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



the peas acquire the somewhat strong, hot taste which characterises 
all Peas with purple flowers. The peas, perfectly green when 




Melting Saint-Desirat Pea. 

young and tender, turn gray or brown in cooking. There are 
two very distinct forms of the Giant Sugar Pea, one of which is 
taller, more vigorous growing, and at the same time later than 




Giant Sugar Pea. 



the Other, and almost always produces the pods in pairs. The 
pods of the other, or earlier form, are perceptibly larger, but are 
usually solitary. 



534 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Under the name of White- flowered and White-podded Sugar 
Pea, a variety is grown in Germany which is very late, very 
branching, with stems from 5 to 6 ft. high, almost white or wax 
yellow in colour, and bearing large broad leaves of a light green 
colour ; the stipules are marked with a circle of the same purple 
colour as the stem at the place where they clasp it. The flowers 
are in pairs and pure white ; they do not commence to bloom 
before about the sixteenth joint of the stem. The pods are 
straight, pointed at the end, about 3 in. long, and pale yellow, 
almost butter-colour ; they contain seven or eight peas, which are 
white and round when ripe. This is a rather productive variety, 
but very late and of only middling quality. It is very liable to 
degenerate, and then has green stems and pods. 



B. Half-Dwarf and Dwarf Varieties 

Early Dwarf Brittany Sugar Pea. — A half-dwarf variety, 
from 2 to 2 J ft. high. Leaves rather slight, small, and gray and 

glaucous green ; stem 
rather short jointed to- 
wards the base ; flowers 
white, medium - sized, 
usually in pairs, and 
commencing to bloom 
at about the twelfth 
joint of the stem, im- 
mediately below which 
there are generally two 
branches of no great 
size, bearing from two 
to four tiers of pods 
which are most com- 
monly solitary. The 
main stem ordinarily 
carries from seven to 
ten tiers of pods, which 
are produced in pairs, 
are of a pale, grayish, 
green colour, and are 
not much over 2 in. in 
length ; they are narrow, 
tolerably swollen and 
fleshy, quite free from 
membrane, each con- 
taining from five to 

Early Dwarf Brittany Sugar Pea. Pods (natural size). Seven white peas, of 




EDIBLE-PODDED, OR SUGAR, PEAS 535 



square shape ; when ripe gray-white, irregular in shape, but rather 
rounded. The stems of this variety are very stiff, and as they 
are also numerous and short jointed, the tendrils interlace the 
plants together in such a manner that they mutually support one 
another, and grow erect without needing any stakes, although they 
attain some height. This property is worthy of note, as many 
other varieties which are of dwarfer growth are very much inferior 
to it in this respect. 




Dwarf Debarbieux Sugar Pea^ 



Dwarf Debarbieux Pea, — About 3 ft. in height, with stems 
supporting each other by their tendrils intertwining so as to require 
no staking. The pods are long, slightly curved, and crowded at 
the top of the stems. The peas are large, round, and white when 
ripe. Originated in the North of France, it is a rather late variety, 
and fit for pulling about the same time as the Ram's-horn or 
Scimitar Pea. 

Very Dwarf Dutch Frame Sugar Pea. — A very dwarf 
variety, not exceeding 8 to 10 in. in height. Stem very zigzag 
in growth, and with joints so short that it is difficult to count 



536 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



them exactly ; it usually commences to branch at about the 
seventh joint, and to flower from the eighth to the tenth joint. 
Flowers of medium size, very white and often solitary. The pods, 
which are borne in from five to seven tiers on the main stem and in 
from two to four tiers on the branches, are whitish green, rather 




Dwarf Debarbieux Sugar Pea. Pods (natural size). 



narrow, and well filled with white and large peas, from five to 
seven in each pod. With the exception of the " strings," which are 
rather tough, the pod is thick, fleshy, and quite free from membrane. 
This variety is almost as early as the Early Frame Pea, and, like 
it, is especially adapted for forcing. There is a sub-variety of it, 



i 



EDIBLE-PODDED, OR SUGAR, PEAS 537 




leaves, but it possesses no special merit to recommend it in 
preference to the form which has just been described. 



Other French Varieties 

A. Shelling Peas 

Pois Bivort. — A climbing variety, of moderate height and 
early, with smooth white peas. It hardly differs from the Early 
Emperor Pea. 

P. Blanc d' Auvergne. — A late kind, with a tall, very branching 
stem. Flowers white ; pods very small and narrow, but well filled ; 
peas white, square in shape. This is a good variety for feeding 
cattle, but comes in too late in the season to be of any great use as 
a kitchen-garden plant. 

P, Cafe. — A Canadian variety of the cattle-feeding class, tall 
and late, with red flowers and brown peas, which are somewhat 
elongated and flattened in shape. 



538 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



P. de Cerons Hdtif. — A climbing and rather early kind, resembling 
the Early Emperor in its earliness, and the Early Frame Pea in its 
vigorous growth and great productiveness. 

P. de Commenchon. — This is a good early Pea, coming in several 
days before the Early Emperor, but still not so early as Sangster's 
No. I. It has rather large leaves and broad pods, which latter are 
as often solitary as in pairs. The peas are smooth, white, and large. 

P. Domine. — A sub-variety of the Early Frame Pea, later and 
more productive than the ordinary form. It has now almost 
entirely gone out of cultivation. 

P, Dore. — A climbing variety, coming in nearly at the same 
time as the White Scimitar Pea. Leaves large and very light 
coloured ; flowers white ; pods in pairs, long and narrow, and 
yellow-green in colour, as are also the peas. 

P. Feve. — In its habit of growth this variety rather resembles 
the Marly Pea and its allies, but is distinguished from them by the 
shape of its peas, which are somewhat oblong and are marked with 
a black spot on the hilimi. 

P. Geant. — A large late Pea, with a very tall stem. Flowers 
violet-coloured ; pods large, in pairs ; peas square in shape, grayish 
in colour, or slightly speckled with black ; hilum black. 

P. le Plus Hdtif Bijiore, de Gendbrugge, — An early kind, coming 
very near the Early Emperor, from which it is distinguished by 
being a little earlier and not quite so vigorous in growth. 

P. Gros Jaune. — A very distinct variety, of a very light, almost 
yellowish, green colour in all its parts ; often one-flowered. The 
pods and peas resemble those of the Pois Carre Blanc. 

P. Gros Quarantain de Cahors. — This is a climbing variety, 
coming very near the Marly Pea, but a little earlier. The peas are 
white and large. 

P. de Lorraine. — This is more a cattle-feeding than a kitchen- 
garden Pea. It is very late, and has very small pods. 

P, de Madere. — A climbing kind, rather like the Marly Pea in 
its habit of growth, but distinguished from it by its peas having 
a black spot on the hilum. It differs from the Pois Feve in the 
whiteness and well-rounded form of the peas. 

P, Michaux d CEil Noir (Black-eye Pea). — This variety is very 
distinctly characterised by the black spot on the hilum of the pea. 
It comes in about the same time as the Ruelle Michaux Pea, is 
productive, and is said to succeed very well in warm climates. 

P. Michaux de Nanterre. — This is a sub-variety of the Early 
Frame Pea, a little later than the ordinary form, but not quite so 
late as the Pois Domine mentioned above. 

P, Michemolette. — A climbing, half-late kind, with large, long 
pods, but only moderately productive. It comes very close to the 
Pois de Gouvigny. 



PEAS 



539 



P. Migron. — A good, very early, and productive climbing Pea, 
very closely allied to the English varieties, Dickson's First and 
Best and Daniel O'Rourke. 

P. Nain Gros Blanc de Bordeaux. — A variety very much 
esteemed in its native district for growing on a large scale in 
market-gardens. It is half-dwarf, two-flowered, and a little later 
than the Common Dwarf Pea, but has larger pods and peas. 

P. Nain Gros Sucre. — A very dwarf variety, scarcely as high as 
the Brittany Very Dwarf Pea. Leaves narrow and light green ; 
flowers in pairs ; pods short and rather narrow, each containing 
from six to eight pale, smooth, regular-shaped peas. This variety 
appears to be at present lost to cultivation. 

P. Nain Vert de St. Michel. — A very productive variety, 
growing about 20 in. high, with stiff, thick-set, branching stems. 
The pods, which are produced in pairs, are well filled with medium- 
sized, round, green peas. 

P. Nain Vert Petit. — A half-dwarf, very distinct kind, about 
2\ ft. high, with a branching stem. Leaves rather slight and dark 
green ; flowers very white ; pods narrow, slightly curved ; peas 
small, green, and very round. This variety is a trifle later than the 
Blue Prussian and the Imperial Dwarf Green Pea. 

P. Quarantain. — A variety which is very generally grown in 
the neighbourhood of Paris, especially in the vicinity of St. Denis. 
It is a very early climbing kind, usually with solitary flowers, and 
in point of earliness does not differ much from the English variety, 
Dickson's First and Best. 

P. Quar ante- deux. — This is grown in the same localities as the 
preceding variety, and comes in later. It is a good variety, with 
short but well-filled pods. The stems are rather slender. It is 
somewhat earlier than the Early Emperor. Some growers dis- 
tinguish two forms of it — one as early as the Early Emperor, but 
yielding for a shorter period, and the other almost as early as 
Sangster's No. i. This latter form seems to be confounded with 
the Pois Quarantain. 

P. Remontant Vert a Rames (Green Branching Pea). — A rather 
slender and tall-stemmed variety, almost as early as the White 
Scimitar Pea. Flowers often solitary ; pods long and slender, each 
containing seven or eight round dark green peas. 

P. Remontant Vert d Demi-Ra7nes. — A half-dwarf, very 
branching kind, which continues bearing for a long time. It is 
pretty closely allied to the Pois Nain Vert Petit (mentioned 
above), but is distinguished from it by the somewhat larger size 
of the peas. 

P. Ride tres-nain d Bordures. — Was in favour for growing as an 
edging to beds of other vegetables, until the introduction of the 
American Wonder and William Hurst Pea superseded it. 



540 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



P. Vej't Nain du Cap. — This is rather a half-dwarf than a really 
dwarf variety, with stiff branching stems, and flowers in pairs, 
exhibiting a considerable resemblance to the Blue Prussian Pea. 
but with peas of smaller size and not so blue in tint. It is net a 
very productive kind. 



B. Edible-podded^ or Suga?-, Peas 

Pais de Commencho7i Sa?is Parc/iemz7i. — A climbing variety, 
not more than from 2>h 4 ft. high, almost as early as the 
Early Emperor. Flowers white, large ; pods medium-sized, 
whitish. 

P. Friolet Sans Parchemin. — A climbing kind, very much like 
the Ruelle Michaux Pea, but entirely free from membrane. Pods 
straight, somewhat swollen, and pale in colour. 

P. Mange-tout Demi-Jiain d CEil Noir. — A half-dwarf early 
variety, coming in a few days earlier than the Early Dwarf Brittany 
Sugar Pea. Flowers violet-coloured ; pods small, slight!}' twisted ; 
peas gray, not spotted, and with a black hilum. 

P. Sans Parc/ie?nzn d Cosse Jaune. — A half-earh* climbing 
variety, with large light green leaves. Flowers white, tinged with 
yellow, in pairs ; pods long, rather broad, entirely free from 
membrane, and green-yellow ; peas somewhat long in shape, and 
light yellow. 

P. Sans Parchemi7i a Fleur Rouge {Tall Red-flowered Sugar 
Pea). — A tall late Pea, with the stem usually branching. Flowers 
pale red, not violet-coloured, in pairs ; pods medium-sized, narrov.-, 
somewhat cur\^ed, sometimes slightly twisted ; peas pale brown, 
marbled with red. 

P. Sans ParcJiemin Tres Hdtif d Fleur Rouge. — A climbing 
variety, almost as early as Sangster's No. i. Stem thin and 
slender, seldom exceeding about 3 ft. in height ; flowers violet- 
coloured, with a red keel, commencing to bloom very lovr 
down on the stem ; pods small, whitish, and ver}' free from 
membrane. 

P. Sans Pa?'che7?ii?i Kai7i Capucin. — This variety is very much 
grow^n in the north of France, where it is highly esteemed. It 
somewhat resembles the Early Dwarf Brittany Pea, and is hardy, 
exceedingly productive, very free from membrane, and comes in 
half-early. The plant grows from 20 in. to 2 ft. high, and the peas 
are round, white, and very smooth. 

P. Sans Pa.rche77iin Nam Gfis (Dwarf Gray Sugar Pea^. — A 
distinct, half-dwarf, branching variety, w^ith violet-coloured flowers 
and small and very numerous pods. It has been generally 
superseded by the early white-flowered varieties. 



PEAS 



541 



P. Sans Parchemin Nain Hdtif de Hollande, — A dwarf variety, 
growing from about 20 in. to 

2 ft. high, and a true early kind, 
as it flowers about the same 
time as the Ruelle Michaux Pea. 
Pods rather small, between 2 and 

3 in. long and f in. broad, slightly 
curved, and quite free from 
membrane. 

P. Sans Parchemin Nain 
Ordinaire (Common Dwarf Sugar 
Pea). — This variety differs very 
Httle from the preceding one. It 
comes in a day or two later, but 
is hardier and rather more pro- 
ductive. Both varieties are now 
superseded in cultivation by the 
Early Dwarf Brittany Sugar 
Pea. 

P. Sans Parchemin Ride Nain 
(Knight's Dwarf Marrow Sugar 
Pea). — This is rather a half-dwarf 
than a really dwarf kind, as it 
grows from about 2\ to upwards 
of 3 ft. high. Flowers white, in 
pairs ; pods small, numerous, 
generally curved, and free from 
membrane ; peas wrinkled, small, 
square or flattened. This is a 
very distinct variety, but it has 
the fault of being somewhat 
late. The peculiarity of the pea 
being wrinkled adds nothing to the merit of the variety as a 
Sugar Pea. 




Knight's Dwarf Marrow Pea. 



Other English Varieties 
A. Round or Smooth- skinned Peas 

Batt's Wonder. — A half-dwarf, rather thick-set kind, with 
large dark green leaves. Flowers in pairs ; pods long and slender, 
slightly curved and pointed ; peas round, sometimes square from 
pressure in the pod, and dark green. A productive, hardy, and 
somewhat late variety. 

Beck's Gem. — A dwarf variety, seldom exceeding a foot in 
height. Stem stifl", often branching ; flowers white, in pairs ; pods 



542 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



rather short, and broad ; peas large, pale in colour. A half-early 
and, notwithstanding its dwarfness, a rather productive variety. 

Bedman's Imperial. — A climbing variety, about 4 ft. high, 
with flowers sometimes solitary, and sometimes in pairs. Pods 
long, and very slightly curved, but blunt at the end ; peas large, 
somewhat oblong in shape, green. Ripens half-early. 

Blue Dwarf English. — This variety differs from the Common 
Early Dwarf Pea in having leaves of a more yellow tint, stem a 
little taller, flowers almost always in pairs, 
and pods not quite so long, but more pointed. 
This kind is suitable for growing in the same 
way as the Common Early Dwarf Pea. 

Blue Prussian. — A half-dwarf kind, 
growing from about 2|- to over 3 ft. high. 
Pods generally in pairs, seldom solitary, 
almost straight, and square at the end ; peas 
large, round, very green ; bluish when ripe. 
This is one of the kinds which are most 
extensively grown by market-gardeners. 

Blue Scimitar. — A half-dwarf kind, 
seldom exceeding about 2J ft. in height, and 
of a very vigorous growth. Pods pretty 
often solitary, long, slender, very much curved, 
and pointed at the end ; they are very well 
filled, each containing from eight to ten 
rather large and very green peas. This 
variety also is very much grown b}- market- 
gardeners. 

Charlton. — At the present day this 
variety is almost lost to cultivation, but 
Blue Dwarf English Pea. formerly it was very much grown and 
highly valued. In England it seems to 
have been the equivalent of the French Pois Michaux de Hollaride 
or Early Emperor. It was a climbing variety, with white round 
peas, grown for an early crop. 

Claudit (Am). — A half-dwarf variety, ripening mid-season, 
fairly productive ; the stems rather slender ; the pods long and 
numerous ; the seed round and light green. 

Dickson's Favourite. — A climbing Shelling Pea, very closely 
allied to the White Scimitar Pea in its habit of growth, its earliness, 
and the appearance of its pods and peas. In fact, the two varieties 
might almost be considered identical. 

Earliest of All (Laxton). — A tall, very early, not very produc- 
tive variety, with slender stems. 

Early Emperor. — A climbing variety, with round white Peas, 
almost exactly like those of the Michaux de Hollande, or Double- 





PEAS 



543 



blossomed Frame Pea. Differs from it only in being frequently 
one-flowered. 

Early Kent. — This is almost exactly the kind which was 
formerly grown in France under the name of Prince Albert. At 
the present day the latter name is applied to a variety which 
comes in somewhat earlier and almost corresponds to Dillistone's 
Early Pea. 

Fairbeard's Surprise. — A climbing variety, about 5 ft. high. 
Flowers white, large, generally solitary ; pods long, rather broad, 
faintly curved, and rounded at the end ; peas large, very green, and 
slightly oval in shape. A very early kind. 

Flack's Imperial. — A half-dwarf kind, usually not more than 
about 3 ft. high. Pods pretty often solitary, but most usually in 
pairs, long and rather broad, slightly curved, and square at the 
end ; peas large, and somewhat oval in shape, becoming slightly 
blue when ripe. 

Harbinger. — This is the earliest of all Shelling Peas. It is a. 
small-sized and exceedingly slender climbing Pea, remarkably like 
Dillistone's Early Pea, but coming in two or three days earlier. 
Flowers solitary ; pods short and very slender ; peas small, round, 
and green when ripe. 

Kentish Invicta {Easts Kentish Invictd). — This may be de- 
scribed as a green-seeded Daniel O'Rourke Pea. It grows to nearly 
the same height, is equally early, and almost equally productive.. 
The first flowers are often abortive. 

Laxton's Evergreen. — Having for a time enjoyed a certain 
amount of favour, this variety appears to be now almost entirely 
neglected. It is a tall climbing Pea, with a rather slender and very 
branching stem, bearing slender, slightly curved pods of medium 
length. The peas are round and small, and, when ripe, a peculiar 
olive-green, easily recognised. 

Laxton's Prolific Long-pod. — A tall climbing variety, 5 ft. or 
more in height. Leaves very large, and light coloured ; flowers in 
pairs ; pods almost like those of the White Scimitar Pea in shape,, 
fully one-third longer and thicker, but far less numerous ; peas 
white, irregular in shape, not perfectly smooth, without being 
wrinkled. 

Laxton's Superlative. — A tall climbing, thick-stemmed Pea. 
Leaves broad and luxuriant, but not tufty ; pods almost always, 
in pairs, often nearly 5 in. long, very much curved, pointed, and 
greatly swollen when ripe. They are not, however, very well filled,, 
each pod only containing from six to eight small round peas, when 
ripe pale green. 

Laxton's Supplanter. — A half-dwarf variety, with large,, 
rather dark, but very glaucous leaves. Stem usually single, com- 
mencing to flower at the seventh or eighth joint ; flowers white,, 



544 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



seldom opening fully, and usually in pairs ; pods about in. long, 
dark green, remarkably broad, especially at the lower end, each 
containing from six to eight very green peas, flattened at the sides 
and square. They retain their deep green colour when ripe, at 
which time they are flat in shape, angular, and sometimes slightly 
hollowed on the faces. The stem usually carries from eight to 
twelve tiers of pods. This is a productive variety, continuing to 
yield for a long time. 

Laxton's Unique. — This is a very dwarf variety, growing from 
12 to 14 in. high, with a usually branching stem. Pods in pairs, 
rather broad, tolerably curved, of medium length, and pointed at 
the end ; peas round, rather small, half white and half pale green 
when ripe. 

Paradise Marrow.— A vigorous-growing climbing Pea, 5 to 6 ft. 
high, usually branching. Pods sometimes in pairs, but generally 
solitary, 4 in. long at least, broad, square at the end, and very 
slightly curved, well filled ; peas seven to nine in each pod, large 
and sweet, becoming round and white when ripe. 

Peruvian Black-eye Marrow. — An American variety re- 
sembling the Pois de Madere. It is also very like the Marly and 
Gouvigny Peas, but is distinguished from them by having a black 
spot on the hiluin. 

Philadelphia Extra Early. — Another American kind. A 
handsome climbing, very early Shelling Pea, very much resembling 
Daniel O'Rourke. Peas white. 

Prizetaker Green Marrow. — A rather slender climbing Pea. 
Leaves medium size, glaucous green ; stipules very broad, dark 
green, distinctly blotched with gray-green ; stem slender, long 
jointed, sometimes single and sometimes with one or two branches; 
flowers almost always solitary, usually commencing to bloom at the 
twelfth joint of the stem ; pods dark green, from about 3 to nearly 
4 in. long, faintly curved like a pruning-knife blade, and quite 
square at the end. Each pod contains from eight to eleven smooth 
green peas, which completely fill it, and are usually misshapen by 
being pressed against one another. 

Royal Dwarf {White Russian). — A half-dwarf variety, about 
2\ ft. high, branching. Pods generally solitary, rather broad, very 
faintly curved, each containing five or six large peas, somewhat 
oval in shape, and very white when ripe. 

Shilling's Grotto. — A climibing Pea, about 4 ft high, not 
branching. Pods long, narrow, and slightly curved, each contain- 
ing seven or eight peas, which become white and round when ripe. 

William the Conqueror. — Half-dwarf, pretty early, pods slightly 
curved, resembling those of William Hurst, but its seed is round. 

Woodford Marrow. — A half-dwarf variety, with a stout, often 
branching stem, about 3 ft. high. Leaves dark green, glaucous ; 



PEAS 



545 



pods sometimes solitary, sometimes in pairs, long, rather slender, 
and of a dark green colour. Each pod contains seven or eight 
peas, which, from being closely pressed against one another, are 
square, and, when ripe, olive-green, like those of Laxton's Ever- 
green Pea. * 

B. Wrinkled Peas 

Abundance {American). — Comes pretty near Stratagem, and 
apparently not superior to it. 

Admiral {Am.). — A tall variety, somewhat earlier than our 
Knight's Wrinkled Pea ; pods blunt at the end, produced in 
pairs, slightly curved ; seed white, wrinkled. 

Admiral Dewey {Am.). — Resembles very much the Telephone. 

Alderman. — Comes near the Duke of Albany, but the pods are 
more regularly produced in pairs. 

Ambassador. — A tall variety ; resembles Duke of Albany. 

Captain Cuttle. — A half-dwarf variety, with large glaucous 
leaves ; pods large, regularly produced in pairs ; seed green and 
wrinkled. 

Celebrity. — A tall variety ; resembles very much Duke ot 
Albany. 

Champion of England.— Of medium height, very branching ; 
pods produced in pairs ; seed green and wrinkled. 

Connoisseur. — A vigorous kind, rather late, but productive, 
and considered to be of exceptionally fine quality. Notwith- 
standing its high character, it does not appear to be very much 
grown. 

Criterion. — A climbing variety, very productive, half-early, 
about 4j ft. high, with rather slender stems, scanty leaves of pale 
green colour ; pods long, straight, well filled ; the peas remain 
green, and become much wrinkled at maturity. 

Crown Prince {Am.). — A dwarf variety, resembling somewhat 
the White Eugenie, but with shorter and broader pods. 

Daisy. — A late dwarf variety, with wrinkled seed ; leaves light 
green ; resembles very much Pride of the Market. 

Dr. Hogg". — An excellent, early, and fairly productive climbing 
variety, with a slender stem, seldom exceeding 4 ft. in height. 
Leaves slight ; pods usually solitary, long, very much curved, and 
exceedingly well filled ; peas large, square, and remaining green 
when ripe. This variety is at least as early as the Early Emperor. 

Dr. Mac Lean. — A half-dwarf variety, with handsome, long, 
curved pods, about 3 in. in length, but not very numerous and not 
always well filled. A half-late kind. 

Duke of York. — Pretty early, 2 J ft. or so in height. Pods 
often produced in pairs, broad and long; seed gfeen and wrinkled. 
* Select List of Peas (Early Dwarf Varieties), see pp. 768, 769. 

35 



546 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Early Maple. — A small slender variety, with purple-coloured 
flowers, remarkable for nothing except its very great earliness. It 
comes into flower about the same time as Sangster's No. i. 

Exonian. — A tall, very early, and very productive variety ; 
leaves dark green ; seed pale green and wrinkled. 

Gardener's Delight— A climbing, tall variety ; stems very 
branching, but rather slender ; few leaves ; pods short, broad, always 
in pairs, and containing from fi,ve to eight large peas, which become 
white and wrinkled when ripe. Continues bearing for a long time. 

Giant Emerald Marrow. — Very closely allied to Knight's Tall 
Marrow, but distinguished from it by the light green of its leaves, 
which glisten like those of Sutton's Emerald Gem. It is a rather 
late kind, with large white wrinkled peas. 

Hair's Dwarf Mammoth. — A half-dwarf variety, exceedingly 
vigorous. Stem thick and strong, about 2^ ft. high, and often 
branching ; pods in pairs, long and broad, very slightly curved, 
and well filled ; peas green, wrinkled. 

Hay's Mammoth (Ta// White Mmmnoth, Ward's Incomparable). 
— A vigorous-growing climbing Pea, attaining a height of 6J ft. 
Stem thick and stout, generally branching ; pods usually in pairs, 
long, broad, nearly square at the end, but very much narrowed 
towards the stalk ; peas white, wrinkled. This is a late variety, 
but continues bearing for a long time, often until very late in 
autumn. 

John Bull. — A very handsome, half-dwarf Wrinkled variety, 
with fine long pods and green peas. It comes in a little earlier 
than MacLean's Best of All Pea. 

Kelvedonian. — A tall, half-early variety, less productive than 
Duke of Albany ; pods broad, long, straight ; seed green, wrinkled. 

King Edward VH. — A very distinct kind, 19 or 20 in. high; 
leaves light green, curled ; pods dark green, slightly curved ; seed 
green, wrinkled. 

Laxton's Marvel. — A half-dwarf variety, with long, slightly 
curved pods ; and large green wrinkled peas. 

Laxton's Omega. — A half-dwarf kind, dark green in all its 
parts, very late, and named so as to indicate that it closes the 
list of Peas. The pods are thin, long, slightly curved, blunt, well 
filled with green peas very closely set together and not very much 
wrinkled when ripe, but rather square and hollowed on the sides, 
and in colour light green. 

Little Gem. — A very dwarf kind, 12 to 16 in. high, vigorous, 
and usually very branching. The pods are rather small, but broad, 
straight, and well filled. The peas, when ripe, are pale coloured, 
bluish, and wrinkled. 

May Queen. — A tall early variety ; leaves light green ; pods 
broad and blunt at the end ; seed green, wrinkled. 



PEAS 



547 



Minimum. — An exceedingly dwarf variety, with white wrinkled 
peas. 

Multum in Parvo. — A very dwarf kind, about i ft. high, of 
compact and thick-set growth. Leaves broad and rather numerous, 
of a deep blue-green ; pods usually solitary, short and rather broad, 
and narrowed towards the end ; peas pale green or greenish white 
when ripe. A rather early variety. 

Ne Plus Ultra {Payne's Conqueror, Cullingfor(r s Champion). — 
A very tall-growing late Pea, sometimes over 6\ ft. high. Pods 
numerous, commencing at about one-third the height of the plant, 
usually in pairs, long, broad, perceptibly curved, and very narrow 
towards the stalk ; peas very large, somewhat oval, and green and 
wrinkled when ripe. First-class quality. 

Nelson's Vanguard. — A half-dwarf Wrinkled Pea. Leaves 
rather large ; pods borne in pairs, of medium length, but rather 
broad. This variety comes into use abotit the same time as the 
Early White Dwarf Wrinkled Pea, but is of a more compact and 
thick-set habit of growth. 

Norwich Wonder. — A sub-variety of Telephone, with shorter 
pods. 

Nott's Excelsior {Am.). — A small dwarf variety, a little taller 
than American Wonder, which it resembles. 

Nutting's No. I. — A branching, rather vigorous-growing, but 
really dwarf variety. Stem stiff, about 20 in. high ; pods numerous, 
in pairs, of moderate length, but well filled, nearly straight, and 
blunted at the end ; peas white, wrinkled. A very early kind, and 
one of the best Dwarf White Wrinkled Peas. 

Pioneer. — A small climbing variety, with fine slender stems, 
like those of Sangster's No. i. Pods of medium size, usually 
solitary, straight, palish coloured, each containing five or six peas, 
which become white and wrinkled when ripe. 

Princess of Wales.— A half-dwarf variety, seldom exceeding 
2 J ft. in height. Leaves pale, rather numerous ; pods short, broad, 
blunt, whitish, very close together at the top of the stem owing to 
the shortness of the joints; peas wrinkled, pale green, and sometimes 
almost white. 

Sharpe's Early Paragon.— A climbing kind, half-early, remark- 
able for the large size and light green of its leaves : pods broad, 
pale green, blunt, thick ; peas green, wrinkled, and fairly large. 

Standard. — A half-dwarf kind, about 2 ft. 8 in. high. Stem 
stout, and very leafy ; leaves pale green, pods long, pointed, very 
much curved, rather swollen, each containing about ten large round 
peas, which become wrinkled when ripe, some of them remaining 
green, while others turn perfectly white. 

Tall Green Mammoth, or King of the Marrows.— A very 
tall and very late variety, exceeding 6 ft. in height. Stems very 



548 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



branching ; pods large, broadening towards the end ; pea medium- 
sized, wrinkled, and green. 

Telegraph. — This variety comes near Telephone, but is distinct 
It grows 4 ft. high, and bears very numerous long, broad pods, con- 
taining large peas, which, when cooked, are a deep green colour 
and of excellent flavour. 

The Sherwood. — A dwarf kind, with broad leaves ; pods 
straight, dark green, well filled ; seed green and wrinkled. 

Wem. — A late sort, 3 ft. in height, producing an abundance 
of thick pods, solitary or in pairs ; seed wrinkled, oblong, and 
light green. 

Yorkshire Hero. — Half-dwarf, bearing on the top of the stems 
broad short pods ; seed large, green, flattened, wrinkled, and of 
good quality. 

German Varieties 

Buchsbaum-Erbse. — A very dwarf Shelling Pea, rather like the 
Brittany Dwarf Pea, but coming in a little earlier and having some- 
what larger pods. The name is also applied to a very dwarf and 
thick-set Edible-podded Pea. 

Grosse Graue Florentiner Zucker-Erbse. — This variety is almost 
exactly the same as the old Giant Sugar Pea. It is a very tall, 
somewhat late kind, and usually produces flowers in pairs. The 
pods are nearly the same size as those of the Large Crooked Sugar 
Pea, and are generally straighter than those of the Giant Sugar Pea, 
which is now commonly grown, and which has been already described. 

Pois Jaune dOr de Blocksberg. — A Shelling Pea, rather like the 
White Scimitar Pea, but of a more slender habit of growth, not 
quite so tall, and somewhat earlier. It is particularly distinguished 
by the wax-yellow tint of its pods and fresh peas, but as a fine 
green colour is generally looked for in Peas, this is a defect. 

Kapuziner-Erbse. — In Germany, and especially in Holland, this 
name is given to all kitchen-garden peas which have red flowers, 
and is chiefly applied to the Edible-podded Peas, as these are 
almost the only kinds with coloured flowers which are grown. 
There are both climbing and dwarf varieties of these peas. 

Ruhm von Cassel Erbse. — A variety very closely allied to the 
White Scimitar Pea, and might almost be considered identical with 
it, only that its pods are straighter or less curved than those of 
that kind. 

Friihe HeinricEs Zucker-Erbse. — A climbing Sugar Pea, of 
moderate height, rather like the Ruelle Michaux Pea. Flowers 
often solitary. A good and rather early variety, but not so 
productive as the good half-dwarf kinds, such as the Brittany 
Sugar Pea. 



PEAS: GERMAN VARIETIES 549 



Holldndische Griinbleibende Spate Zucker-Erbse. — A very tall 
late kind, with white flowers in pairs. Pods of medium size, much 
smaller than those of the Large Crooked Sugar Pea. This variety 
does not commence to bear until late in the season, but it continues 
bearing for a long time. It requires very tall stakes. 

Sehr Frilhe Bttchsbaum de Grace. — This Pea may, at the most, 
be considered only a sub-variety of the ordinary Dwarf Dutch 
or Dwarf Crooked Sugar Pea, being merely a little more slender in 
habit, and growing a trifle taller. It is not a very productive kind, 
but very early and exceedingly dwarf. 

Z^duerg-BiicJisbauvt de Grace. — A very dwarf variety, with small, 
gray, slender, scanty leaves. The pods are not always free from 
membrane. 

WINGED PEA 

Lotus Tetragonolobus, L. ; Tetragojiolobus purpureus^ Mcench. 

LegU77iinos(2. 

French, Lotier cultive. German, Fliigel-Erbse. Flemish, Vogelvitse. Danish, i\.sparges 
oerten. Spanish, Bocha cultivada. 

Native of South Europe. — Annual. — An almost creeping plant, 
with stems spreading on the ground, about i ft. long and pale 
grayish green, of the same tint as 
the leaves, which are composed of 
three broad, short leaflets. Plowers a 
fine, slightly brown red ; pods square, 
with membranous wings at the angles, 
from about 2\ to over 3 in. long, and 
tolerably fleshy when young ; seeds 
yellow, almost spherical, or slightly 
flattened. Their germinating power 
lasts for five years. This plant is 
grown in the same manner as Lentils 
or French Beans. The seed is sown 
in April where the crop is to stand, 
and the plants require no attention 
except watering in very dry weather. 
The pods, when young and tender, 
are eaten like Haricot Beans. The seed, when roasted, forms 
one of the many substitutes for coffee. 




Winged Pea (y^ natural size). 



PEA-NUT, EARTH-NUT, or GROUND-NUT 

Arachis hypogcea, L. LeguminoscB. 

French, Arachide. German, Erdnuss. Italian, Cece di terra. Spanish, Cocahueta. 
Portuguese, Amenduinas. 

Native of South America.— Annual. — A plant with weak, almost 
creeping, stems. Leaves consisting of two pairs of oval leaflets. 



550 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



with a broad emarginate stipule at the base of the leaf-stalk ; 
flowers yellow, solitary, in the axils of the leaves ; pods oblong, 
often contracted in the middle, like a Bottle-Gourd, of irregular 
shape, reticulated, yellowish, each containing two or three nuts as 

large as good-sized peas, of an oblong 
shape, and covered with a brown or red 
skin. The germinating power of the peas 
lasts for only one year. A peculiarity 
of this plant is that the flowers insert 
their ovaries into the ground, where 
%^ ^^^3^^^ ^ ^^^y complete their growth, and where 
CT .^L. \\ the seeds or nuts ripen, at a depth of 

from 2 to 4 in. In America several 
varieties are grown, differing from one 
another in the size of the nuts and the 
number contained in each pod. 

Culture. — The seeds or nuts are 
sown in spring, as soon as the frosts 
are over, and the plant succeeds best 
in light soils. Being a tropical plant, 
it may sometimes live and ripen its fruit in the west of Europe, 
but cannot be profitably cultivated here. 

Uses. — In warm countries the nuts are often eaten raw or 
parched. An oil, of the greatest value for economic purposes, is 
also extracted from them. 




Pea-nut (yV natural size ; 
detached fruit, | natural size). 



POTATOES 

Solanum tuberosum^ L. Solanacecs, 

French, Pomme de terre. Gerinan, Kartoflfel. Flemish and Dutch, Aardappel. 
Danish, Jordepeeren. Italiati, Patata. Spanish and Portuguese, Patatas. Spanish 
{America7i), Papa. 

Native of the high mountain regions of South America. — 
Annual, but virtually perennial through its tubers. — The history 
of the discovery and the introduction of the Potato into Europe 
is rather obscure. It appears certain, however, that towards the 
close of the sixteenth century the plant began to be generally 
cultivated and used as a table vegetable. It was first grown in 
the Netherlands, Lorraine, Switzerland, and Dauphine, and its 
cultivation extended even to Spain and Italy before it became 
common in the central and northern districts of France. In fact, 
it was not until after Parmentier had laboured and written on 
the subject, that the Potato w^as appreciated at its true value in 
the neighbourhood of Paris and the adjoining localities. Almost 
about the same time, its culture began to acquire some degree 



POTATOES 



551 



of importance in England, and from that time forward it has 
extended most rapidly, and, in spite of the disease, which about 
the middle of the last century tdireatened complete ruin to its 
cultivation, the Potato still holds the first place amongst edible 
tubers. 

Varieties of the Potato might be counted to the number of 
many thousands, if any one wished to record all that have been 
raised and recommended in different countries during the last 
hundred years. This extreme multiplicity of varieties has obliged 
us to pass over a very large number of them, and we shall confine 
ourselves to the description of fifty varieties or so which appear 
to us to be the most distinct and, at the same time, the most 
worthy of note. 

The stem of the Potato is generally solid, more or less 
quadrangular, and often furnished with membranous wings at 
the angles. The leaves are compound, formed of oval leaflets, 
between which are often found small leafy growths, like leaflets of 
smaller size. The flowers are produced in axillary and terminal 
clusters, and have an entire, wheel-shaped, five-pointed corolla, 
varying in colour from pure white to purplish. Many varieties do 
not flower, and of those which do flower, a very great number never 
bear fruit. The fruit is rounded or very shortly oval, green in 
colour or (rarely) tinged with violet-brown, and averages about i in. 
in diameter. It contains, in the midst of a green and very acrid 
pulp, small, white, kidney-shaped seeds. These are never sown 
except for the purpose of raising new varieties. 

The tubers, which are only underground branches swollen and 
filled with starchy matter, exhibit very great difl"erences in shape 
and colour, according to the varieties. They are usually divided 
into the four classes of Round, Oblong, Long Notched, and Long 
Smooth Potatoes. To these characteristics, and those which are 
derived from the colour, may be added those which are furnished 
by the buds or shoots which are produced by the tubers when kept 
in a dark place. These are very constant in appearance and colour, 
and afford the means of distinguishing one variety from another 
with a considerable degree of accuracy. We believe few charac- 
teristics are so important as these for determining varieties, and in 
a work* recently published we thus spoke of them : "Whether the 
tubers have attained their full growth, or, on the contrary, have 
remained exceedingly small and puny ; whether they have been 
fully ripened or not ; whether, even, they are sound or diseased, 
provided they have enough vitality left to enable them to commence 
to vegetate, the buds or shoots always develop themselves with the 

* " Essai d'un Catalogue IVlethodique et Synonymique des Principales 
Varietes de Pomme de Terre," par Henry Vilmorin. Third edition. (Paris, 
3902.) 



552 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



same appearance and the same colour in the same variety " — on 
condition, of course, that the tuber has not been exposed, either 
before or during the growth of the shoot, for any length of time to 
the influence of light. 

Culture* -When grown in the open ground, Potatoes are 
usually planted in April, in holes or pockets at a distance from one 
another of from i6 in. to 2 ft., according to the vigour of growth of 
the variety. Entire tubers of medium size are the best for planting. 
They should be covered, at the time of planting, with soil to the 
depth of 4 or 5 in., and the practice is to earth up as soon as the 
stems have grown to a height of 6 to 8 in., the ground being then 
also hoed for the second time. The earthing-up is not absolutely 
necessary, but it has the advantage of causing the tubers to lie 
closer round the roots of the plant, so that they are more easily 
taken up. Potatoes ripen, or, at least, become good enough for 
use, from the beginning of June to the end of October, according 
to the varieties. When the tubers for planting have been exposed 
to the influence of light and air, they generally vegetate earlier and 
more vigorously ; but, in this case, much care must be taken, when 
planting, not to break off the shoots which have commenced their 
growth. 

There is some advantage in planting Potatoes in autumn, as the 
yield is generally somewhat heavier than it would be on the same 
area and with the same quantity of "seed" Potatoes if planted 
in spring. On the other hand, there is the danger of the " seed " 
perishing in the ground in very cold or too damp winters, and, 
besides, the planting should be done in October or November — 
a time when there is almost always much to do in the gardens or 
in the fields. 

Potatoes may be forced under frames on a hot-bed of greater 
or less strength. Forcing may be commenced in December or 
January, and monthly plantings in the hot-beds may be continued 
up to the middle of March. The Alarjolm Potato, which has very 
scanty leaves, is chiefly employed for this purpose. New forced 
Potatoes may be taken up in two and a half or three months after 
planting. 

The culture of the Potato in the United Kingdom is so very 
extensive, and differs so much according to the district and the aim 
of the growers, that we have not space to do justice to it here. We 
therefore refer the reader to a small and handy book in which the 
culture in all its phases is carefully described, viz. Fremlin's "Potato> 
in Farm and Garden," and the London market-garden culture is 
fully treated of in Shaw's " London Market-Gardens." 

Uses. — The tubers, either young or ripe, are eaten as a table 
vegetable. They are also used for feeding cattle and for the 
manufacture of starch and alcohol.t 

* See also pp. 769, 770. t Spraying, see p. 771. Sprouting the Seed- 
Tubers, see pp. 771, 772. Diseases of Potato, see pp. 778, 780. 



ROUND YELLOW POTATOES 



553 



I. Round Yellow Varieties 

Shaw, or Regent, Potato. — Tuber round, yellow, with a smooth 
or wrinkled skin, according to the kind of soil in which it is grown ; 
eyes rather deeply sunk ; flesh yellow and very floury ; shoot a 
wax-yellow colour, violet-coloured at the base and at the extremity. 
Stems rather long, sometimes 3 ft. or more, pliable, almost always 
drooping, quite green, or very slightly tinged with brown, faintly 
winged, and almost always branching. Leaves short, numerous, 
dark and rather dull green ; leaflets crowded closely together, reticu- 
lated, and always curled and wavy. Flowers very rarely opening, 




Shaw, or Regent, Potato. 



as they almost always fall off when merely small buds ; when they 
do bloom, they are a pale bluish lilac colour. This variety is more 
extensively grown than any other kind of Round Yellow Potato in 
the vicinity of Paris. It is very productive, floury, and of excellent 
quality. If planted in April, the crop ripens in August 

The Segonzac Potato differs from this variety only by a few 
characteristics without any importance. 

Early Round Yellow Potato. — This may be considered as a 
somewhat earlier form of the Shaw, or Regent, Potato, with usually 
rounder tubers, which also have fewer eyes. In growth it hardly 
differs from that variety. The stems, however, seldom exceed 
2 ft or 2 ft. 4 in. in length ; the leaves are not so numerous, and 



554 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



.are a lighter green, those at the top of the stem being paler and 
yellower than those at the base. The flowers fall off while in the 
bud state. This is a very fine and excellent variety. If planted 
in April, new potatoes, fit for use, may be taken up about the end 
•of July. 

Golden-yellow Norwegian Potato. — Tubers medium-sized, 
rounded, sometimes slightly elongated, usually very regular ; skin 
of a handsome yellow colour ; fiesh yellow, shoot violet. Stems 
blender ; leaves small, light green ; flowers flax gray. This is one 




Cigarette Potato. 



-of the best Potatoes for table use, specially in a rather dry climate. 
In wet seasons it easily becomes diseased. 

Cigarette Potato. — Tubers large, yellow, rounded or slightly 
long, flattened, very smooth ; flesh white ; shoot pink. The 
stems numerous, strong, somewhat angular, light green ; leaves 
rather scanty, with small oval-pointed leaflets, slightly hairy. The 
flowers fall off. This variety has against it, from a French point 
of view, the whiteness of its flesh, but it has excellent qualities. It 
is a heavy cropper, producing perfectly regular tubers very easy 
to peel. Ripens mid-season. 

Up-to-Date Potato. — Tubers round, sometimes slightly elon- 
gated and flattened, almost without eyes ; skin yellow ; flesh pale 



ROUND YELLOW POTATOES 555 

! 

I yellow, of sufficiently good quality to be used for the table ; shoot 

I pink. Stems high and vigorous; flowers lilac. An excellent variety, 

i which ripens at about the same time as the Yorkshire Hybrid, 

j and if inferior to it in quality, produces considerably heavier crops. 
I Canada Potato. — A large yellow tuber with the eyes hardly 

! marked. It is rounded and slightly elongated ; the shoot rose 

i colour ; stems vigorous, tall, and foliage abundant, and of a gray- 

1 green colour ; the flowers white, in bunches, but producing seed 

I very seldom. The Canada Potato is best for feeding cattle and for 




Canada Potato. 

industrial purposes. Imported from Canada some years ago by a 
French missionary, it has been made known principally by M. 
Paul Genest, the President of the Agricultural Comice of Luneville. 

Imperator Potato. — The tuber is rounded or slightly oblong, 
large or very large, pale yellow, with the eyes pretty deeply sunk. 
The flesh is white ; the shoot violet. The stems are vigorous, tall, 
erect, quadrangular, bronzy, and bear large leaves with large rounded 
leaflets, sparsely set, which gives the foliage a rather light appear- 
ance. The flowers are large, lilac, and do not seed usually. It is 
a late variety, the tubers of which are remarkably rich in starch. 



556 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Besides its industrial value, it is also one of the most productive 
Potatoes known, having produced as much as twenty-six to thirty 
tons per acre. 

Agnelli's Jewel Potato.— The tubers resemble much those 
of Imperator, but are longer and pale yellow. The flesh is white ; 
the shoot violet ; the stems tall and very strong ; the leaves like 
those of Imperator; the flowers ash-gray. A late variety, intro- 




Imperator Potato. 

duced from Austria, suitable only for feeding cattle or for the 
manufacture of starch. Yields regularly over twenty tons or so to 
the acre, and contains i8 per cent, of starch, or even more. 

Professor Maerker Potato. — The tubers are large, yellow, 
rounded, with the eyes slightly marked ; the flesh is white ; the 
shoot violet ; the flowers violet. It is a half-late variety which may 
be used for the table, but it is rather a field Potato, rich in starch, 
and not liable to disease. 



ROUND YELLOW POTATOES 



557 



I Edouard Lefort Potato. — Tubers large, rounded, with well- 
I marked eyes ; yellow, somewhat wrinkled skin ; flesh yellow, firm, 
I floury, and agreeable to the taste ; shoot waxy white, tinged purple 

at the base and at the point ; stems little developed. This variety 
I was introduced by M. Edouard Lefort as the result of a cross 

between Imperator and Marjolin. It is an early Potato, suitable, 




Edouard Lefort Potato. 



however, for field culture. Planted at about 20 in. distant in rows 
about 24 in. apart, it can produce some 13 tons to the acre, available 
for market by the end of July. 

Giant Unequalled Potato. — The tubers are very large, yellow, 
rounded, sometimes knobby, with deep-sunk eyes ; the flesh yellow, 
and the shoot pink. The stems are numerous, strong, erect, light 
green, rounded or slightly winged; the leaves pale green, erect. 



558 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



with leaflets crowded close, small, reticulated, and hairy. The flowers 
are white, and fall off without seeding. A late variety, still more 




Giant Unequalled Potato. 



productive than Imperator and richer in starch ; fit for table 
purposes, but more especially adapted for industrial uses. 



ROUND YELLOW POTATOES 559 
Seguin Potato.— Tuber rounded, medium-sized, and a grayish 




Seguin Potato. 

yellow colour ; skin usually wrinkled ; eyes not very deeply sunk ; 
flesh yellow. Diameter generally ranging between 2 and 24 in. 
Stems erect, vigorous growing, 2 ft. to 2^ ft. high, quadrangular, 




Scotch Champion Potato. 



deeply winged, marked with brown above the joints, and generally 



56o 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



branching. Leaves rather distant from one another, large, composed 
of oval, stalked, large, flat leaflets, and of other leaflets which are 
small, sessile, and round. Flowers numerous, large, bluish lilac, in 
stout clusters, and produced in succession for a long time. This 
variety is very productive and floury, and keeps well. It does not 
ripen until September. 

Scotch Champion Potato. — Tubers very numerous, rounded, 
sometimes flattened ; skin pale yellow, as is also the flesh ; eyes 
deeply sunk, but not very numerous ; shoot violet-coloured. 




Jeance Potato, 



Diameter seldom exceeding from 23- in. to 2| in. The tubers are 
often longer than broad. Stems very vigorous growing, very erect, 
3 ft. or more high, quadrangular, winged, dotted with blackish 
brown, and slender. Leaves numerous, growing almost erect, 
of medium size, and having the veins spotted with violet colour ; 
leaflets elongated, very long pointed, very much reticulated, and 
covered with small stiff hairs. Flowers deep violet, with white 
points, in rather numerous clusters, and produced in succession for 
a long time. Seed very rarely formed. This is an -exceedingly 
vigorous-growing and productive variety. Some years ago a great 



ROUND YELLOW POTATOES 



deal of noise was made about it in England, on account of its 
resisting the disease. It is not, however, perfectly exempt from it, 
but, like the Chardon Potato, it continues to grow when attacked 
by the fungus, and ripens its tubers late in autumn, when the disease 
has spent much of its force. 

Jeance Potato. — Tubers rounded, somewhat irregular, the eyes 
being very deeply sunk ; skin of a slightly gray-yellow colour, and 
smooth or wrinkled, according to the kind of soil in which the plants 
are grown ; flesh yellow ; shoot pink. Diameter often 3| in. 
and sometimes more. Stems vigorous growing, from 2j in. to 
3j ft. long, quadrangular, rather deeply winged, often drooping, 
and very much branched. Leaves medium-sized, with short oval- 
rounded or heart-shaped leaflets, which are almost flat in the lower 
leaves and curled and folded in those at the end of the stem. 
Flowers rather numerous, lilac-pink ; fruit seldom. Leaves a pale 
gray-green. This Potato, which is best known in the vicinity of 
Paris by the name of Poimne de Terre Vosgierme, is one of the most 
productive and best kinds. It is very floury and keeps well. If 
planted in April, the crop ripens in September. 



IL Oblong and Long Yellow Varieties 

Snowflake Potato. — Tuber oval, always flattened, and re- 
markable for its symmetrical shape ; skin pale yellow or grayish 
white, sometimes smooth, but usually wrinkled ; flesh white, very 
floury, and light in texture ; eyes very faintly marked ; shoot pale 
pink. Stem rather erect, seldom exceeding 2 ft. in height, more 
round than quadrangular, swollen at the joints, and quite green. 
Leaves rather numerous and large, and of a very pale, light yellow- 
green ; those at the base of the stem are much larger and flatter 
than those at the top. Flo\^•ers white, large, very often abortive. 
This is one of the best American varieties. It is a productive 
and rather early kind, and the flesh is of excellent quality. If 
planted in April, the tubers ripen about the middle of July. 

Ohio Junior Potato. — Very large, oblong, flattened tubers 
very regular in shape, yellow, with eyes very little sunk ; the flesh 
white ; the shoot violet-coloured ; the stems vigorous, very thick 
but short, and often branching, slightly winged, purple. Leaves 
large, of a shining dark green; leaflets oval, rounded, reticulated, 
almost glabrous ; the flowers lilac with white points, not pro- 
ductive of seeds. It is above all a field variety, almost as productive 
as the Imperator and the Giant Blue Potato, but rather early. One 
of its chief merits is seldom to produce those small tubers which, 
being started late in the season, have not the time to attain a fair 
size and therefore go to waste. 

36 



562 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Sutton's Seedling Kidney Potato.— Tubers large, oblong, 
flattened, smooth and yellow ; the flesh pale yellow ; the shoot 
violet. Stems medium-sized, spreading, angular, slightly purple ; 
leaves of fair size, glossy dark green, with large leaflets, oval, 
mucronated, somewhat reticulated, slightly reflexed, the flowers 
always falling off. A very productive variety of excellent quality, 
ripening mid-season. 

Chancellor Potato. — Tubers large, oblong, flattened, smooth, 
pale yellow ; the flesh yellowish, shoot violet. Stems long, 
slender, spreading, slightly winged, violet. The first leaves are 




Chancellor Potato. 



large, shining green, reticulated, oval with short petioles ; those 
produced later are smaller, more pointed and dull green. The 
flowers are abundant, purple with white points, falling off. A very 
fine variety, much grown for its great productiveness and perfect 
shape and excellent keeping quality of its tubers. Ripens half 
late. 

Queen of the Polders Potato. — Tubers regular, long, flat, 
smooth, and slightly curved ; eyes not prominent. The flesh is 
light, floury, and white ; the shoot is pink and the stems 
short and slender ; leaves of dull dark green, crimped ; leaflets 
oblong, reticulated ; flowers white. Neither early nor late, it does 



OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 563 



very well in the sandy soil of the reclaimed marshes near Mont 

Saint - Michel, from 
whence large quantities 
of it are exported into 
England, where it is 
much liked. 

White Horn Potato. 
— Tubers very numerous, 
light yellow, and thin, 
considering their length; 
their diameter scarcely 
exceeding the thickness 
of the thumb, while their 
length is often 3J to 
4j in. The flesh and 
flavour are delicate. 
A vigorous half - late 
variety. 

Magnum Eonum 
Potato. — Tuber large, 
oblong, slightly flattened, 
sometimes irregular in 
shape ; skin pale yellow, 
smooth or wrinkled, 
according to the kind 
of soil in which the 
plants are grown ; flesh 
yellow ; eyes pretty well 
marked, and prominent 
rather than sunk ; shoot 
pink. Stems very erect, 
vigorous growing, quad- 
rangular, winged, tinged 
with coppery red above 
the joints, and growing 
from about 2 J to 3 J ft. 
high. Leaves rather far 
apart, composed, especi- 
ally those towards the 
base of the stem, of very 
broad, oval-rounded, not 
very numerous, almost 
flat, and broadly re- 
ticulated leaflets. The 




Queen of the Polders Potato. 



prevailing tint of the foliage is a pale or grayish green. Flowers 
lilac-red, most abortive. An extremely productive mid-season 



564 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



variety, coming in about the middle of September. In England 
it has the reputation of resisting the disease very well, but in 




Magnum Bonum Potato (natural size). 



France it is not remarkable in this respect. Although at first 
green when other varieties are attacked, when it arrives at the 
period when the tubers commence to form, it takes the disease in 
its turn, and soon succumbs to it. 

Lapstone Potato (English synonyms : Ash-top Fluke, Per- 
fection Kidney, Pebble White, Rixton's Pippin, Yorkshire Hero). — 




Lapstone, or Yorkshire Hero, Potato (natural size). 



Tubers regularly almond-shaped, sometimes short, sometimes long, 
and very smooth ; eyes hardly marked ; skin pale yellow, slightly 

I 



OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 565 

gray, violet-coloured if exposed to the light for any long period ; 
flesh pale yellow, very fine flavoured ; shoot hairy, violet-coloured. 
Stems half-erect, from 20 in. to 2 ft. high, thick at the base, but 
quickly becoming thinner, quadrangular, slightly winged, and of a 
very faint copper colour near the joints. Leaves broad, light green, 
almost flat, slightly glazed, and having a peculiar appearance which 
is easily recognised. Flowers numerous, large, pure white, seldom 
producing seed. A very handsome variety, with flesh of fine 
flavour, light texture, and excellent quality. If planted in April, 
new potatoes may be dug about the end of July. 




Early Victor Potato. 



Victor Potato. — Tubers flat, oblong, often squared at both 
ends, smooth ; the eyes faintly marked. Flesh quite yellow ; 
shoot purple. Stems short, vigorous, with large round leaves. 
The flowers very scarce, large, and light purple. Of even quicker 
growth than the Marjolin Potato. The short stems make it 
suitable for cultivation under glass, in which case the tubers are 
formed within forty days. In the open ground it is early, and two 
successive crops may be grown in the same season. 

Bed's Hero Potato. — Tubers yellow, large, oblong, smooth, 
almost eyeless, flesh yellow ; shoot white or tinged with pink. 
Stems thin, very erect ; leaves abundant, light green ; leaflets 
small, oval-pointed, erect, and but slightly reticulated ; flowers 



566 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



white, abundant, and falling off. A vigorous but rather dwarf 
plant, of like earliness to the Yorkshire Hybrid, having the same 
qualities, with rather larger tubers. 

Marjolin Potato (English synonyms : Walnut-leaved Kidney, 
Sandringham Early Kidney). — Tubers long, often slightly curved, 
thicker and rounder at one end, narrowed to a blunt point at the 
other, often marked with swellings about the eyes ; skin yellow, 
smooth ; flesh very yellow ; shoot, when grown in darkness, 
yellowish white, and violet and green when grown in the light. 
The tubers grow close together around the bottom of the stem. 




Walnut-leaved Kidney Potato (sprouting tubers, natural size). 

Stems short, seldom exceeding i6 to 20 in. in length, usually 
drooping, not branched, and slightly winged. Leaves medium- 
sized, with rounded leaflets, dark green on the upper surface, 
much glazed, and almost always spoon-shaped. Flowers white, 
rather large, usually abortive, when the variety is very pure. 
This is the best known and most extensively grown early 
Potato, and forms tubers more quickly than any other kind. 
If planted in the open ground in April, the tubers ripen in 
June. It is the most suitable kind for growing in frames for 



OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 567 



an early crop, and is the variety which is most used for that 
purpose. There is a form of it which has taller stems, leaves 
slightly reticulated, and 
numerous white flowers, and 
which resembles the Royal 
Ash-leaf Kidney. This, al- 
though not so early, is far 
more productive than the 
ordinary variety. It is grown 
in the open air. About 
Paris, the practice of sprout- 
ing " seed " potatoes before 
planting them is very 
common. For this purpose, 
the tubers are ranged on 
wicker-work screens (care 
being taken to place them 
with an eye uppermost), and 
kept in a dry place sheltered 
from frost until they are 
planted. When planting- 
time arrives, the screens are carried to the ground, and the 
tubers are taken from them one by one and carefully deposited 
each in the hole made to receive it. When the tubers are pre- 




Marjolin Potato. 



pared in this way, the crop comes 



m 




Walnut-leaved Kidney Potatoes sprouted in basket. 

all together weigh less than the " seed 
have grown. 



from ten to fifteen days 
earlier than it would it 
they had been planted 
without being sprouted. 
Besides, the practice of 
sprouting is an almost 
certain preventive of a 
mishap which occurs 
more frequently with this 
variety than with any 
other — that is, the com- 
plete abortion of the 
overground stems. When 
this happens, no stems 
make their appearance 
above the surface of the 
ground, the tuber pro- 
ducing only a few under- 
ground stems bearing 
diminutive tubers which 
potato from which they 



568 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Tetard Marjolin Potato. — Tubers large, flattened, oblong or 
almond-shaped ; skin smooth or faintly wrinkled, of a dark, 
coppery yellow, assuming a peculiar and easily recognised tint 
after the tubers have been taken up out of the ground ; flesh 
yellow, very fine and delicate in flavour ; shoot yellowish white. 
The tubers are sometimes swollen around the eyes, like those of 
the last-named variety. Stems erect, quadrangular, slightly winged, 
very rarely branching, quite green, and from 20 in. to 2j ft. high. 
Leaves rather curled and wavy, of a green, slightly yellow, colour, 
and glistening. Flowers white, rather numerous, but hardly ever 
seeding. A very productive and early variety, and exceptionally 




Tetard Marjolin Potato (natural size). 



good for cooking. If planted in April, new potatoes may be dug 
in the latter part of July. 

Royal Ash-leaved Kidney Potato (Synonyms : Early Alma 
Kidney, Carter's Early Racehorse, Harry Kidney, Royal Ash-top, 
Myatt's Ash-leaved Kidney, Veitch's Ash-leaved Kidney, or 
Rivers' Ash-leaved Kidney). — Tuber long, very smooth, kidney- 
shaped, or like a Gherkin, almost resembling the Early Marjolin 
Potato ; skin yellow ; eyes faintly marked ; flesh yellow ; shoot 
violet. Stems usually drooping, from 20 in. to 2 ft. long, rather 
slender, quadrangular, deeply tinged with a violet-brown colour^ 
especially near the angles. Leaves dark green ; lower ones broad, 
almost flat, moderately reticulated ; upper ones much more twisted 
and puckered, and with the leaflets more pointed. Flowers large, 
lilac-blue, very seldom blooming. An excellent kind for an early 
crop, more suitable for the open ground than for growing in frames. 



OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 569 



It is almost as early as the Marjolin Potato, but its tubers do not 




Royal Ash-leaved Kidney Potato. Tuber (natural size). 



Belle of Fontenay Potato. — Tubers yellow, oblong or kidney- 
shaped, abundant, medium-sized, smooth. The flesh is very yellow, 
the shoot violet In growth this variety resembles the Royal 




Belle of Fontenay Potato. 



Ash-leaved Potato, but the stems are shorter, and the leaves, which 
are dark green, much twisted. The flowers are lilac-coloured and 
seldom bear seed. A very early, productive variety, of good 
quality and keeping well ; suitable also for growing under glass. 

Belle of July Potato. — Tubers thick, almond-shaped, sometimes 
curved like a kidney. The skin is yellow, smooth; the flesh yellow; 



570 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



the shoot purple. The stems are rather thin, firm, erect ; foh'age light. 
It is not liable to disease. The flowers are not abundant, and of a 
gray-lilac, and do not usually produce seed. An excellent Potato for 




Belle of July Potato. 



the French market, on account of its shape, earliness, and especially 
the colour of its flesh. Comes into use at the same time as the 
Yorkshire Hybrid Potato, to which it is superior. The tubers are 
numerous and almost uniform in size, so there is no waste in lifting. 




Nettle-leaved (Early Bedfont) Kidney Potato. 



Nettle-leaved Potato (English synonyms : Early Bedfont 
Kidney, or Sutton's Early Racehorse, Potato). — Tubers very like 
those of the Early Marjolin Potato, but distinguished from them, 



OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 571 



as soon as they commence to sprout, by the pink colour of the shoots, 
which are also hairy and covered with leaves; flesh yellow. Stems 
slender, generally unbranched and spreading along the ground, from 
20 in. to 2 ft. long, and slightly winged. Leaves rather far apart, 
short, composed of a few oval-rounded, very much reticulated dark 
green leaflets. Flowers white, opening early, in not very numerous 
clusters, and sometimes producing seed. A very good variety for 
an early crop, coming in almost as soon as the Early Marjolin and 
quite as productive, but it keeps badly. It is very extensively 
grown for an early crop in the open fields in the vicinity of Paris. 

Prince of Wales Potato. — Tubers generally smooth, but some- 
times knobby ; almond or pear-shaped ; flesh yellow, fine grained, 
floury and light. Stems pretty vigorous, brown, mostly lying or 




Priace ot Wales Potato. 

the soil. The foliage is reticulated, resembling that of the Royal 
Ash-leaved Potato. The flowers are lilac-blue, and very seldom 
seed. It is an excellent, very productive Potato, and of easy sale. 
It is especially apt for producing fresh tubers in August and 
September, but, like the Royal Ash-leaved, does not keep very well. 

Yorkshire Hybrid Potato {Quara?2tame de la Halle or 
Hollande). — Tubers medium-sized, seldom more than from i\ to 
4 in. long by 2 in. in diameter, oblong or almond-shaped ; skin 
yellow, usually smooth ; eyes hardly visible ; flesh very yellow and 
of excellent quality; shoot pink, slightly hairy, and slow in growth. 
Stems half-erect, quadrangular, winged, sometimes branching, and 
from 2 to over 2 J ft. long. Leaves large and broad, composed of a 
great number of leaflets of very variable dimensions : in the lower 
leaves they are broad, flat, and almost glazed ; in the upper ones 



572 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



they are narrower, reticulated, and curled. Flowers numerous, 
violet-pink, a pretty large proportion of them producing seed. This 
variety, in fact, is one of those which yield the most seed. In the 
Paris market it ranks amongst the most highly esteemed kinds, 
and has completely superseded the old Long Yellow Dutch Potato. 




Yorkshire Hybrid Potato (natural size). 



It is productive, of excellent quality, keeps very well, but, un- 
fortunately, is very liable to be attacked by the disease. If planted 
in April, new potatoes may be dug in the course of August. 

The Brie Long Yellow Potato is a sub-variety of this kind, 
from which it does not differ essentially. Its tubers are generally 
a little longer and yellower, and ripen somewhat later, but that is 
chiefly owing to the circumstance that they are grown in richer, 
deeper, and colder soils than those in which the Yorkshire Hybrid 




Princesse Potato (natural size). 



is usually planted. The characteristic features of both forms — that 
is, the colour and arrangement of the flowers, and especially the 
appearance and growing period of the shoots— are, in fact, identical. 

Princesse Potato. — Tuber very long, almost as deep as broad, 
usually curved, and thicker at the top than at the bottom ; skin 



OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 573 



bright yellow, smooth ; eyes prominent rather than sunk ; flesh 
very yellow ; shoot smooth, copper-coloured. Stems half-erect, 
20 in. to 2 ft. long, quite green, thick, quadrangular, and winged. 
Leaves long and abundant, composed of numerous leaflets, large 
and small, of a pale green, slightly yellow, colour. Flowers very 
large, lilac-red, not numerous, and seldom seeding. This variety is 
particularly suitable for frying and for salads ; the flesh is very firm 
and compact. The tubers ripen middling early. If planted in 
April, new potatoes may be dug about the end of August. 

Joseph Rigault Potato. — Tubers smooth, almond-shaped, skin 
and flesh quite yellow ; the eyes very faintly marked ; the shoot 
copper-coloured. The stems are thin and weak, generally lying 
on the ground ; the foliage is light, pale green, and glazed. The 
flowers are few and purple-red. A half-early variety, well shaped 
and clean, with a fairly tough skin and of pleasant flavour. It has 
all the qualities valued in a table Potato, and is altogether a garden 
Potato, not being productive enough for market-gardening or 
agricultural purposes. 

III. Round Red Varieties 

Red-skinned Flour-ball Potato (Synonyms : Garnet Chili, 
or Brinkworth Challenger). — Tubers large, deeply marked with 
hollows from the eyes being very much sunk, often 4 in. or more 




Red-skinned Flour-ball Potato (natural size). 



574 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



in diameter; skin usually wrinkled, pale red; flesh white; shoot 
white, with the point and base red. Stems erect, quadrangular, 
winged, of a coppery red, from about 2j to over 3 ft. high, some- 
times branched. Leaves medium-sized, composed almost solely 
of large oval-acuminate leaflets, which are nearly always folded 
gutter shape, and of a rather light, yellow-green colour. The main 
leaf-stalk is rather deeply tinged with brown, especially towards 
the extremity. Flowers very abundant, of a slightly lilac-rose 
colour, in numerous clusters, and produced in succession for a long 
time ; they very seldom bear seed. This is one of the good 




American Wonder Potato (natural size). 



varieties for field culture, and, although its introduction only dates 
back about twenty years, it has already taken an important place 
among the varieties which are grown both for the manufacture of 
starch and for table use. It uniformly yields pretty well, as it 
suffers little from the disease, and is not too late in ripening, the 
crop being usually dug in September in the vicinity of Paris. For 
table use, the flesh is considered to have the defect of being too 
white and somewhat deficient in fineness of flavour. 

American Wonder Potato. — Tubers rounded, somewhat 
irregular ; eyes deeply sunk ; skin rather smooth, violet-red ; flesh 
v/hite ; shoot red. Stems erect, quadrangular, vigorous growing. 



ROUND RED POTATOES 



575 



Leaves broad, with dark green leaflets. Flowers numerous, in large 
strong clusters, of a rather vivid violet-red colour. A half-late and 
very productive variety, but of only ordinary quality. 

Village Blacksmith Potato {Pomme de Terre Truffe). — Tubers 
roundish, medium-sized, regular, eyes not much sunk ; remarkable 
for the peculiar appearance of the skin, which is thick, blackish, 
and split like the skin of a truffle. Shoot violet-coloured ; flesh 
white, light, very floury when cooked ; stems medium-sized, erect ; 
foliage gray, reticulated ; flowers lilac, opening seldom. The 
Blacksmith Potato is half-early, fairly productive, and of very good 
quality. It is sure to be appreciated in countries where preference 
is given to white-fleshed Potatoes. 

IV. Red or Pink Oblong or Long Varieties 

Institut de Beauvais Potato. — Tubers large, flattened, heart- 
shaped; the skin yellow rather salmon-coloured, or tinged rose near 
the eyes, which are marked by a superficial rumple. The flesh is 




Institut de Beauvais Potato. 



576 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



very pale, almost white; the shoot pink. The stems very vigorous, 
quadrangular, thick, erect, with large, smooth, light green leaves. The 
flowers are white, numerous, and produced in bunches. It is half- 
early and fairly productive. It was raised from seed at the Institute 
of Beauvais, Oise, and resembles so very closely the Idaho Potato 
that one might suppose it had been raised from seed of the Idaho. 

White Elephant Potato.— Tubers very large and usually very 
long, flattened, and slightly notched ; in colour pale yellow, more 
or less striped with pink, especially at the end. The flesh is' white 
and the stems very vigorous, tall, with broad vivid green leaves. 
The flowers are white. A handsome late potato with remarkably 
large tubers, specially good for feeding cattle, etc. 




Early Rose Potato. 

Early Rose Potato.— Tubers oblong, rather flattened, often 
more pointed at the top than at the bottom ; eyes not very deeply 
sunk, but having a rather prominent ridge or wrinkle belov/ them ; 
skm smooth, and of a pink colour slightly tinged with salmon 
colour ; flesh white ; shoot pink, and germinating remarkably soon. 
Stems medium-sized, erect, from 2 to 2I ft. high, rather thick at the 
base, but speedily becoming more slender, sometimes branching, 
and slightly tinged with coppery red, especially near the joints. 
Leaves flat and smooth, composed almost solely of large oval- 
acuminate leaflets, of uniform size, slightly glistening, and of a 
light green colour. Flowers white, large, in not very numerous 
clusters, and usually falling off abortive. A very productive and 
early kind, the crop ripening in the month of August. Flesh light 
m texture, and extremely variable in quality, according to the kind 
of soil in which the tubers are planted. These do not keep well, 
as they have too great a tendency to sprout. 



i 

■ RED OR PINK OBLONG OR LONG POTATOES 577 



Variegated-leaved Potato.— We have placed this variety next 
to the Early Rose because the two resemble each other closely, 
only differing in the golden-yellow striped foliage of this variety. 
The tubers are the same shape and colour as those of the Early 
Rose Potato, but less numerous and often smaller. 

Cottager's Red Potato (Sauasse).— Tubers flattened, oblong, 
usually very regular in shape, from about si to 4 in. long, and 
about 2 in. in diameter ; skin smooth, rather vivid red ; eyes faintly 
marked, not sunk; flesh yellow; shoot pink. Stems tall, erect, very 
vigorous, almost always branching, often 3 ft. or more in height, 
quadrangular, slightly winged, and deeply tinged with brown red. 
Leaves large, composed of very unequal, oval-round, much reticu- 




Cottager's Red Potato (natural size). 



lated leaflets of a dark, slightly gray and dull, green. Flowers pale 
violet, in very numerous clusters usually intermingled with the 
leaves, very rarely producing seed. One of the best kinds for 
winter use, and most in request in Paris late in autumn. The flesh 
is somewhat compact, but much more floury as the season advances. 
This variety is rather free from the Potato-disease properly so called, 
but it often sufi"ers from the affection know in France as "la 
Frisolee," which shrivels up both leaves and stems at the com- 
mencement of their growth. 

Robertson's Giant Kidney Pota.to (Rouo-e longue de Hollande). — 
Tubers very easily recognised, flattened kidney or almond shaped, 
usually very long, with the base very narrow, and often curved into 
a crook ; skin smooth, of a rather dark red slightly tinged with 



37 



578 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



violet; flesh yellow, fine in texture, and of good quality ; shoot red. 
Stems erect, stiff, more round than quadrangular, coppery red, and 
from 2 to 2^ ft. high. Leaves rather scanty, and pale gray-green. 
In the lower leaves the leaflets are often joined together so as to form 
one broad rounded leaf-blade ; the leaves at the top of the stem are 
often curled and wavy, with pointed leaflets puckered at the edges. 
Flowers, white, numerous, in rather strong clusters, and hardly ever 
producing seed. The haulms or stalks of this variety are remark- 
ably slight and slender, and do not cover the ground beneath them. 
This is a very distinct potato ; it was formerly a great favourite, 
but, at the present day it has been superseded by more productive 
kinds, although of superior quality and an excellent keeper. If 
planted in April, new potatoes may be dug about the end of 
August. In the neighbourhood of Cherbourg, where it is very 



extensively grown, the mildness of the climate permits of its being 
planted in December, the crop coming in in June or July. 

Cardinal Potato. — Tubers medium-sized, oblong or almond- 
shaped, very red ; flesh pale yellow, sometimes slightly streaked 
with pink, firm and floury ; the shoot red. The stems are short, 
thin, spreading, slightly violet, scarcely winged ; the leaves few, 
small, light green ; leaflets of unequal sizes, oblong, rounded, not 
much reticulated. The flowers are white, and fall off before they 
open. A very productive variety, of excellent quality, the tubers 
are regular in shape and keep well. A mid-season variety and a 
healthy vigorous plant. 

Pousse-debout Potato. — Tubers almost cylindrical, narrowed 
at the ends, from about 3J to 4 in. long, and between i and 2 in. in 
diameter ; skin pale red, rather smooth, eyes faintly marked and 
prominent ; flesh yellow ; shoot pink. Stems vigorous growing, 
erect, branching, generally short, seldom exceeding from 20 in. to 
2 ft. in height, and tinged with coppery red, as are also the leaf- 




Robertson's Giant Kidney Potato (natural size). 



RED OR PINK OBLONG OR LONG POTATOES 579 

stalks. Leaves broad and large, dark green, composed of broad, 
rounded, pointed leaflets. Flowers white, large, in rather numerous 
and compact clusters ; they usually produce no seed. This is a 




Cardinal Potato. 

productive variety and keeps well. The flesh is more compact 
than that of the preceding kind, and not so floury. The tubers 
ripen in September. 

Vitelotte Potato. — Tubers almost cylindrical, somewhat thicker 
1 towards the top than at the bottom ; eyes numerous, each situated 
at the bottom of a deep wrinkle ; skin red, rather smooth ; flesh 
1 white, sometimes slightly zoned with red, especially at the end 
' farthest from the point of attachment to the underground stem ; 




Pousse-debout Potato (natural size). 

shoot red. Stems erect, very stiff, vigorous, quadrangular and 
winged, tinged with brown, often branching, seldom more than 
from 20 in. to 2 ft. high, very thick-set and well furnished with 



SSo 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



leaves. Leaves short, of a slightly gray-green colour ; leaflets oval, 
rounded, rather pointed, especially those towards the top of the 
stem, very much reticulated, and often folded in two. Flowers 
white, very seldom seeding. This variety is not so highly esteemed 




Vitelotte Potato (natural size). 



nowadays as it was formerly ; nevertheless it is of excellent quality, 
rather productive, and keeps very well. It has the defect of being 
difficult to peel; and much of the tuber is wasted in that operation. 
The crop comes in in the course of September. The best variety 
for salad. 

V. Violet-coloured Varieties 

Violet - coloured Quarantaine Potato. — Tubers flattened, 
smooth, kidney-shaped or almond-shaped, often from 4 to 6 in. 
long, and 2 in. or more in diameter at the thick end ; skin ex- 




Violet-ccloured Quarantaine Potato (natural size). 



ceedingly fine and thin, violet, smooth ; flesh yellow ; shoot violet. 
Stems rather slender, brown, usually drooping, and seldom ex- 
ceeding from 2 to 2j ft. in length. Leaves medium-sized or small, 
with rounded, gray, very much reticulated leaflets. Flowers white, 



VIOLET-COLOURED POTATOES 



seldom showing, and never seeding. This is a mid-early variety, 
not very productive, but of very good quality. It keeps well and 
without sprouting, and is, perhaps, the best of all varieties for table 
use in spring, becoming more floun,^ and improving in quality as 
the season advances. 

Negresse Potato. — Tubers long, cylindrical ; eyes deeply set 
like those of the Vitelotte ; skin almost black, also flesh. Stems 




Negresse Potato. 



weak, purple ; foliage curled and reticulated ; flowers white. A 
variety not productive, but curious for the colour of its flesh. 

Vicar of Laleham Potato. — Tubers very large, regular spherical 
in shape, or slightly flattened, smooth, with eyes faintly marked. 
The skin is purple, sometimes rather rough ; the flesh is white, 
floury and light. The stems strong, but not long compared with 
the great productiveness of the plant and the size of the tubers. 
The flowers are white, scarce, and usually sterile. A fine half-early, 
very productive Potato, succeeding best in light rich soils ; the 
tubers not very numerous, but large and keeping quite well. 



582 



THE. VEGETABLE GARDEN 



VI. Variegated Varieties 

Czarina Potato. — Tubers large, rounded or oblong, notched 
with a more or less deep red blotch around the eyes. Flesh very 




Czarina Potato. 



pale yellow, shoot pink. Stems trailing, strong, leaves abundant, 
with large leaflets ; flowers violet with white points, produced in 
bunches. It is much grown for cattle-feeding and industrial 

II 



VARIEGATED POTATOES 



S83 



purposes, being very productive, rich in starch, and keeping well 
It is besides of sufficiently good quality for the table. 

La Bretonne Potato.— Tubers rounded or oblong, flattened 
on one side. The skin rosy white, slightly red near the eyes. 
The flesh is white and of good quality ; the stems tall and stout, 




La Bretonne Potato. 



with vigorous branches ; the foliage light gray-green in colour, and 
the flowers white. This Potato, though not a cattle-feeding one, 
is remarkable for the abundance of its yield. Its flesh is floury, 
and it is one of the best among table Potatoes. 

Peake's First Early Potato {Blanchard). — Tubers round, 
sometimes flattened, yellow, plentifully variegated with violet, 
especially towards the top and around the eyes; skin smooth; flesh 
yellow ; shoot violet-coloured. Stems stout, usually prostrate, 
almost always branching, from about 2\ to over 3 ft. long, tinged 
with brown, especially towards the base. Leaves medium-sized, 
composed of oval-acuminate, rather reticulated leaflets, light green. 



5S4 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Flowers very numerous, large, lilac-blue, a large proportion of them 
seeding. This Potato seeds, perhaps, more abundantly than any 

other of the ordinary 
kinds. It is a good, 
early, productive variety, 
and keeps well. The 
flesh is floury and very 
yellow. The crop m.ay 
be dug about the end 
of July. The tubers are 
never very large, but they 
are very plentiful, and of 
fairly uniform size. 

Incomparable Potato. 
— Tubers oval or almond- 
shaped, smooth, with eyes 
almost level ; the skin 
is yellow, and usually 
blotched with purple-red ; 
the flesh is yellow, the 
shoot violet. The stems 




Peake's First Early Potato (natural size). 



are thick and angular, trailing, and sometimes striped purple ; 
the leaves are small, curled ; the leaflets oval-pointed, hairy and 
folded over. The flowers are flax gray and often fertile. A 
handsome Potato, with regularly shaped tubers. Exclusively a 
cooking potato, half-early, but not productive. 



iiniiiMiilii 



Incomparable Potato. 



POTATOES: FRENCH VARIETIES 



585 



In addition to those already described, some of the best known 
or most noteworthy English and other varieties are : — 

I. French Varieties 

Achille Lemon. — Tubers slender and elongated, usually curved, 
and much narrower at one end than at the other ; skin very smooth, 
golden-yellow, marked with broad dark violet spots, especially at 
the end of the tuber and near the eyes, which are very slightly 
sunk ; flesh deep yellow, rather firm, and very fine. A half-early, 
moderately productive variety. 

Artichaut Jaune. — Tubers long, slender, almost cylindrical, 
very much notched, and like those of the Vitelotte Potato, only that 
they are yellow instead of red. A floury, half-late variety, now 
almost gone out of cultivation. 

Aspasie. — A vigorous-growing late variety. Tubers regular, 
oblong, large, flattened ; skin coppery pink ; flesh white, very rich 
in starch. 

Belle Augustine. — Tubers pale yellow, oblong, flattened, 
usually somewhat kidney-shaped ; skin smooth ; eyes faintly 
marked ; flesh yellow ; shoot violet-coloured. A rather dwarf, 
early, and productive kind, coming in eight or ten days earlier than 
the Yorkshire Hybrid Potato. It is grown to some extent in the 
vicinity of Paris for the supply of new potatoes. 

Belle de Vincennes. — Tubers oblong, flattened, smooth, almost 
without eyes, remarkably handsome, and resembling the Snowflake 
Potato in appearance ; shoot violet-coloured. Stems stout, tinged 
with brown, usually twisted ; leaves broad, numerous, and dark 
green ; flowers violet, in rather crowded clusters. This variety 
seeds abundantly. 

Bonne Wilhelmine. — Tuber small, round, bright yellow, smooth; 
eyes but little marked ; flesh very yellow ; shoot purple. 

Brandale. — Tubers yellow, long, almond-shaped ; flesh butter- 
yellow ; shoot violet. Stems short, spreading, brown or violet ; 
leaves small, with small dark green leaflets,' much reticulated ; 
flowers white. An early variety much grown in Southern 
France. 

Caillaud. — Tubers round, medium-sized or large, yellow, 
slightly tinted with salmon colour ; shoot pink ; skin usually 
wrinkled ; flowers white. A stout-growing, productive, half-late 
variety, very good for field culture, and resembling the Jeance 
Potato except in the flowers, but not so productive as that 
variety. 

Chandernagor.— Productive half-late variety. Tubers slightly 
elongated, somewhat notched, black purple ; flesh strongly tinged 
with violet, but very fine and of excellent quality ; shoot violet. 



586 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Chardon Potato. 



Chardon. — Tuber very large, round, sometimes long ; eyes 
much sunk ; skin smooth, pale yellow ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot 
pink. 

Cornice d'Amiens. — A very handsome, small, early kind, with 
round, small, or medium-sized tubers, of a yellow colour variegated 

with pink ; shoot pink. Flowers 
white. A very early, but not 
very productive variety, which 
might be suitable for forcing. 

Des Cordillieres. — Tubers 
yellow, round, very smooth^ 
small, and very numerous ; flesh 
yellow ; shoot violet-coloured. 
The plant is of tufty growth,, 
with numerous stems. Foliage 
scanty. A very distinct kind, 
but of no great account for 
kitchen-garden culture. 

Descroizilles. — Tubers 
rounded or slightly oblong, somewhat irregular in shape ; eyes 
rather deeply sunk ; skin pink or very pale red, slightly wrinkled ; 
flesh yellow ; flowers white. A late variety, rather deficient in 
productiveness, but of good quality. 

Excellente Naine. — A very handsome and good variety, re- 
sem.bling the earliest forms of the Pomme de Terre Royale. The 
stems are hardly longer than those of the Marjolin Potato, for which 
this variety might be substituted in frame culture, being quite as 
productive and quite as early. 

Grosse Jaune Deuxieme Hative. — This Potato is rather exten- 
sively grown in the fields in the vicinity of Paris. It is, properly 
speaking, only a sub-variety of the Shaw, or Regent, Potato^ 
with somewhat larger tubers, and ripening from eight to ten days 
later. 

Hative de Bourbon-Lancy. — Tubers medium-sized, quite round 
or very slightly flattened, variegated with yellow and violet colour 
disposed in bands rather than in round marblings. A moderately 
vigorous early-ripening variety, with lilac flowers, which are 
generally abortive. 

Jaune Long-ue de Hollande. — Forixierly the most extensively 
grown and the most highly esteemed Potato for table use ; since the 
appearance of the Potato-disease it has been almost entirely super- 
seded by the Qimrantaijie de Noisy Potato and its sub- varieties. 
The following were its characteristics : Tubers long, almost always 
curved, and much thicker at one end than at the other ; skin 
grayish yellow, slightly wrinkled ; flesh yellow, very floury, and 
very fine in texture ; shoot pink. Stems rather short, twisted ; 



POTATOES: FRENCH VARIETIES 



587 



leaves curled and reticulated ; flowers lilac-red. This is a rather 
late kind, and never very productive. 

Jaune Ronde Hative de Provence {Round Early Provence). — 
Tubers large, round, light yellow, regular in shape, slightly 
notched ; flesh very light yellow ; shoot violet. Stem thick, 
vigorous, angular, spreading ; leaves very large, with slightly 
reticulated leaflets ; flowers white. An early and very productive 
Potato, well suited for export. 

De Malte. — Tubers very large, round ; eyes very deeply sunk, 
and rather like those of the Jeance Potato ; shoot pink. Stems 
usually trailing on the ground, green, and from about 2\ to over 
3 ft. in length ; leaves clear green, curled, and reticulated. The 
flowers are constantly abortive. 

Marceau. — Remarkable for the great size of its tubers which are 
flattened, oblong ; skin pale yellow, somewhat rough ; flesh yellow ; 
shoot violet. 

M. Eiffel. — Early and very productive, in shape resembles the 
Cottager's Red Potato, 
but is rather longer and 
pale yellow ; flesh white ; 
shoot pink. Stems rather 
short ; leaves large, 
smooth, spreading. 

Naine Hative. — 
Tubers small or medium- 
sized, round ; eyes faintly 
marked ; skin yellow, 
rather smooth ; shoot 

violet-coloured ; flesh yellow. Flowers lilac, 
weak, seldom exceeding from 16 to 20 in. in 
variety, but a very poor cropper. 

Noisette Sainville. — A miniature Potato, with a very appro- 
priate name, as the size of the tubers is only about that of a 
hazel-nut {noisette), very rarely exceeding that of a good-sized 
almond. They are ovoid and slightly flattened in shape, of a 
grayish yellow colour, and with a slightly wrinkled skin. The 
eyes are hardly visible ; shoot violet-coloured. Stems very 
small and weak ; leaves gray ; flowers white. This variety 
has been recommended on account of the fine quality of the 
flesh of the tubers, but its produce is so trifling that it is hardly 
worth growing. 

Oblongue de Malabry. — Tubers oval, pale yellow, not notched ; 
flesh white ; shoot white, faintly tinged with violet colour. A very 
productive and moderately early variety. 

Pasteur. — Tubers oblong, very smooth, elongated ; flesh yellow^ 
fine and floury ; shoot violet-coloured ; ripens mid-season. 




M. Eiffel Potato. 



Stem 
length. 



short and 
An early 



588 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Patraque Blanche. — An exceedingly productive kind, with 
grayish white, slightly pink-tinted tubers, which are oblong in 
shape, squarish at both ends, and tolerably notched ; flesh white ; 

shoot pink. Stems 
very long and very 
vigorous growing ; 
leaves gray ; flowers 
pink, numerous. This 
variety produces a 
considerable number of 
tubers of medium size. 
It is a rather late kind, 
and is more grown for 
feeding cattle than for 
table use. 

Quarantaine a Tete Rose. — Tubers oblong or almond- 
shaped ; skin smooth, yellow, variegated with red near the eyes, 
especially at the end of the tuber ; flesh yellow. Stems short, 
erect ; leaves grayish. A half-late and rather productive variety. 
When grown in a light soil, the tubers of this variety have an 
extremely handsome and quite distinct appearance. 

Reine Blanche. — A handsome, rather late variety. Tubers 
medium-sized, or large, very round, white, with a red spot around 
ea6h of the eyes, which are rather deeply sunk ; shoot pink. Stems 
erect, vigorous growing ; leaves abundant, dark coloured ; flowers 
reddish violet, in broad clusters. The tubers of this variety have a 
very handsome appearance, but are of only middling quality. 

Reine de Mai. — Tubers oblong or almond-shaped, flattened, 
very smooth, and nearly white ; shoot pink. Stem rather slender 
and bare of leaves ; flowers white. This is an early variety, and 
very handsome when well grown, but it is exceedingly delicate, and 
the tubers are very often spotted. 

Rickmaker. — A very productive, half-late Potato, with oblong, 
deeply notched, pale yellow 
tubers and pink shoot ; 
stems long and trailing. 
Contains a great deal of 
starch. 

Rognon Rose {Belgian 
Kidney Potato). — Tubers 
flattened, usually almond 
or kidney - shaped, very 

smooth skin light pink, ^^^^^^^ ^^^^ p^,^^^_ 

yellowish; eyes faintly 

marked ; flesh yellow ; shoot pink. A productive variety, ripening 
mid-season, and keeping well. 




Pasteur Potato. 




POTATOES: FRENCH VARIETIES 



589 




Rohan. — Very closely allied to the Patraque Blanche Potato, 
from which it is only distinguished by its tubers being more 
reddish coloured. It is a productive kind, and well adapted for 
field culture. 

Rosee de Conflans {^Rosace de Villiers-le-Bel). — Tubers long, 
almost cylindrical, very slightly notched, usually pink-coloured 
towards the top and salmon-tinted yellow at the bottom ; shoot 
pink. Stems rather short and stiff ; leaves numerous, dark 
coloured; flowers white. A half-late and rather productive kind. 
The flesh of the tubers is yellow, firm, and not easily bruised. 

Rosette. — A handsome variety, a seedling of the Early Rose. 
Tubers flattened, rounded, dark red, 
smooth ; flesh white, light. A half-early 
variety. 

Rouge Ronde de Strasbourg 

( Wery). — Tubers medium-sized ; skin 
usually somewhat wrinkled and of a 
rather deep red colour ; shoot red ; flesh 
yellow. Stems very stiff and strong, 
brown ; leaves dark green ; flowers reddish 
lilac. A good common variety, pro- Rosette Potato, 

ductive, and coming in in mid-season. 

Sainte - Helene. — Tubers handsome, yellow, very smooth, 
oblong, flattened, and slightly kidney-shaped ; eyes very faintly 
marked ; flesh yellow. Stems rather short and pliant ; leaves 
broad, dark green ; flowers violet, not very numerous, but very 
large. Tubers ripen half-early. A fine kitchen-garden variety. 

Saint-Germain. — A handsome red Potato, rounded, flattened ; 
flesh yellow. Flowers small, pinkish. 

Saucisse Blanche. — In shape this variety resembles the 
Cottager's Red Potato, but the tubers are white or pale yellow, with 
red blotches round the eyes and at both ends ; flesh yellow ; eyes 
faintly marked ; shoot pink. 

Tanguy. — This kind is rather extensively grown in Brittany. 
It comes very near the Segonzac or Saint-Jean Potato, but its 
tubers are of a paler yellow and rounder, its stems are thicker, and 
its leaves are of a paler green. When grown in the sandy or 
granitic soils of the coasts of Brittany, the tubers are very fine and 
floury. Large quantities of them are exported to England. 

Tardive d'Irlande. — Tubers rounded or oblong, rather notched, 
and of a yellow colour variegated v/ith red ; flesh white ; shoot 
pink. Stems scanty ; leaves slightly gray ; flowers lilac, small. 
A late variety and a poor cropper. Its chief merit is that the 
tubers will keep for a long time without sprouting. 

Truffe d'Aout. — Tubers medium-sized, rounded, bright red ; 
eyes moderately sunk ; flesh yellow ; shoot red. Stems erect, 



590 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



rather stiff ; leaves dark gray-green ; flowers white. A mid- 
season variety, productive, and, many years ago, well known and 
highly esteemed. 

Violette {^Hundred-fold Potato). — A very old and productive 
variety, grown for about a century, and occasionally comes still to 
the Paris market. Tubers round and often squared at both ends, 
notched, eyes deeply sunk ; skin deep purple ; flesh yellow ; shoot 
violet. 

Xavier {Patte Blanche). — Tubers oblong, almost cylindrical, pale 
pink, slightly notched ; flesh yellow-white ; shoot pink. Stems 




Violette (Hundred-fold) Potato. De Zelande (Red Regent) Potato. 



rather long ; leaves gray ; flowers white. This variety is w^orthy 
of recommendation on account of its good quality, but it is very 
liable to be attacked b}' the disease. 

Yam, or Igname. — Like the preceding variety, this one also 
suffers greatly from the disease, and it is difficult now to meet with 
it in a perfectly healthy and vigorous condition. The tubers are 
oblong, rather large, almost cylindrical, and slightly notched ; skin 
pale red, smooth ; shoot red. 

De Zelande {^Red Regent or Gosforth Seedling). — An excellent 
half-late variety, keeping well. Tubers round, medium-sized ; skin 
bright red, slightly rough ; eyes faintly marked ; flesh yellow ; 
shoot red. 

II. English Varieties 

Alice Fenn. — Tubers oblong, kidney-shaped, very regular ; 
skin yellow, smooth ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot violet. Stems very 
scanty, slender and pliant ; leaves small and few ; flowers violet. 
A handsome, rather early, but not very productive kind. 

Bovinia. — Tubers very large, long, broad, flattened, rather 
deeply notched, and yellow variegated with red, especially towards 
the top and near the eyes ; flesh yellow-w^hite. Stems vigorous 
growling ; leaves large. A very late variety, producing tubers 
which sometimes weigh over two pounds each, but are not very 



POTATOES: ENGLISH VARIETIES 591 



numerous. The flesh is watery and of only middling quality. The 
variety is more curious than useful. 

Britannia. — Tuber yellow, long ; flesh yellow ; shoot white. 
Resembles very much the Royal Ash-leaf Potato. 

Coldstream, or Hogg's Coldstream. — Tubers round, small or 
medium-sized ; skin and flesh yellow ; flowers and shoot violet. 
Stems small and pliant, generally prostrate ; leaves rounded, 
grayish green. A very good, hardy and early kind, but only 
moderately productive. 

Dalmahoy. — Tubers round, small or medium-sized, white ; eyes 
rather well marked, but not very deeply sunk ; shoot violet. Stems 
erect, short, seldom exceeding i ft. in height ; leaves gray, rather 
crumpled, with large pointed leaflets. The flowers fall off without 
opening. A selected form of the Regent. 

Dawe's Matchless (Synonyms : Excelsior Kidney, Webb's Im- 
perial, Early Bryanstone Kidney, Manning's Kidney, England's 
Fair Beauty, Chagford Kidney, Wormley Kidney, Champion 
Kidney). — A very fine and productive mid-season Potato. Tubers 
remarkably handsome, oblong, sometimes flattened, sometimes 
kidney-shaped, exceedingly smooth, nearly white, and often 
measuring 5 or 6 in. in length, by 2 in. or more in diameter ; eyes 
hardly marked ; flesh white ; shoot violet. Stems rather vigorous, 
erect ; leaves rounded, reticulated, and of an almost black-green 
colour ; flowers white. This variety is not much grown in France, 
where we cultivated it for some time by mistake under the name of 
P. Confederee. The true P. Confederee (a synonym for P. Marceau\ 
however, has violet-coloured flowers and broader and yellower 
tubers. 

The Dean. — Tubers round or slightly flattened, skin dark 
purple, and wrinkled ; flesh yellow ; shoot violet. A half-late, 
fairly productive variety, remarkable for the regular shape and 
dark colour of its tubers. 

Early Emperor Napoleon.— Tubers almost spherical or 
slightly flattened, and entirely devoid of eyes ; skin slightly 
wrinkled, red, and, in exceptional cases, variegated with yellow ; 
shoot red ; flesh yellow-white. Stems slender, usually trailing 
on the ground ; leaves exceedingly narrow and gray ; flowers 
red, in thin clusters. A half-early and not very productive kind, 
but remarkable for the handsome appearance and regular shape 
of the tubers. 

Early June {Kerr). — Tuber flat, almond-shaped, yellow, smooth ; 
shoot white ; flesh yellow. A sub-variety of the Royal Ash-leaved 
Potato. 

Early May Queen. — Tubers small, round, red, rough-skinned ; 
eyes well marked ; flesh white ; shoot white. Resembles Early 
Rose. 



592 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Early Puritan. — Tubers yellow, smooth ; eyes numerous, broad, 
not much sunk but well marked ; flesh white ; shoot white. 
Leaves light green, rather small, slightly spoon-shaped. 

Fenn's Early Market. — Tubers round, small, or medium-sized 
rather flattened ; skin yellow, smooth ; eyes not much sunk ; shoot 
pink ; flesh nearly white. Stems of very scanty growth, weak, and 
pliant ; leaves pale green ; flowers white, not numerous. This 
excellent small variety is one of the earliest of all the Round 
Yellow Potatoes, and is remarkable for the small size of its 
stems. 

The Garton. — Tubers yellow, round, smooth ; eyes very few ; 
shoot and flesh white. Very like the Van der Veer Potato. 

Gem {Kerr). — Tubers yellow, round ; eyes few, lightly notched ; 
flesh white ; shoot violet-coloured. 

General Roberts {Kerr). — Tubers yellow, long, flattened ; eyes 
few, not notched ; flesh white ; shoot copper-pink. A late variety, 
vigorous. Stem copper-coloured, erect ; flowers reddish lilac, 
numerous, in large erect clusters. 

Giant Reading. — Tubers large, oblong or kidney-shaped, 
yellow, smooth ; flesh white ; shoot pink. Stems numerous, 
vigorous, short, spreading, slightly angular ; leaves abundant, 
long, with short petioles ; leaflets medium-sized, oval or oblong, very 
hairy, often folded ; flowers falling off. This variety bears some 
resemblance to the Magnum Bonum, but is more productive. It is 
not liable to disease, and keeps well. 

Golden Eagle and Radstock Beauty. — It is very difficult to 
distinguish these two varieties from each other, and they are 
probably identical. The tubers are yellow, variegated with red, 
round, and slightly flattened in one part ; skin very smooth and 
having a very pretty and very peculiar appearance ; shoot red. 
Stems of moderate height ; leaves dark green ; flowers red. 
Tubers rather late to ripen and moderately productive. 

Grampian. — This variety very much resembles the Early 
Emperor Potato, described above, but has somewhat darker and 
more numerous leaves and redder flowers. The tubers do not 
exhibit any well-marked difference. The Grampian Potato is 
distinguished by the remarkably regular and symmetrical shape of 
the tubers, which are spherical or flattened, but always rounded in 
outline. They are almost entirely devoid of eyes and are of a fine 
red colour ; they are also hardy and rather productive, ripen half- 
late, and keep very well. 

Harbinger {Sutton). — Small, round, distinct tuber ; shoot red. 
Leaves resembling those of Sharpe's Victor Potato, or even larger. 

International Kidney. — A half-late variety, tuber almond- 
shape, smooth, well shaped and often very large, almost white ; 
flesh very pale yellow ; shoot violet. 



POTATOES: ENGLISH VARIETIES 593 




International Potato. 



King of Flukes {Meldmm Coitqueror). — Tubers oblong, often 
rather short, slightly flattened ; skin golden-yellow ; eyes faintly 
marked ; flesh very 
yellow, fine, and of 

excellent flavour; ^.^^^^rf^^^MMf^lM'Mlfff^^ 
shoot violet. Fairly 
productive, ripens 
mid-season. 

Lady Webster. 
— Tubers round, very 
smooth, somewhat 
flattened, yellow, and 
rather plentifully 
variegated with red ; 
shoots red. Stems 
short and drooping, 

green ; leaves not numerous, with very glistening leaflets, resembling 
those of the Early Marjolin Potato. 

Leda {Kerr). — Tubers oblong, pale red ; eyes very few, slightly 
notched ; flesh yellow ; shoot pink. Vigorous, erect stems. 
Flowers small, white, 
tubers are those of the Early Rose. 

Lord of the Isles {Kerr). — Tubers yellow, oblong ; eyes few, 
not notched; flesh white; shoot pink. Very like Early Rose in its 
vegetation, but the leaves are smooth and more erect. Flowers white. 

Milky White. — Tubers white, slightly salmon tinted, very 
smooth, flat in one part, oblong, and without eyes or notches ; 
shoot pink. Stems of scanty growth ; leaves slight, pale green ; 
flowers white. A handsome half-early variety, producing ver\' 
clean-skinned tubers ; but several American varieties have a still 
finer appearance, and are, at the 



Resembles in habit the Red Regent, and its 



same time, more productive. 





King of Flukes Potato. 



Model Potato. 



Model. — Tuber pale yellow, very regularly rounded, slightly 
flattened ; eyes faintly marked ; skin smooth or rough, according 
to the soil ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot violet. 

38 



594 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Mona's Pride. — A variety very closely resembling the Early 
Marjolin Potato in its habit of growth, but differing entirely from it 
in the shape of the tuber, which is very short, or even round and 
flat. It is also somewhat later and somewhat more productive 
than the Marjolin Potato. 

Our Boys {Kerr), — Tubers yellow, long, kidney-shaped ; eyes 
few, slightly notched ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot violet. Stems long 
and strong, slightly copper-coloured ; flowers white, in large 
clusters. Ripens late. 

Paterson's Victoria. — A half-early variety, very floury, keeping 
perfectly, disease resisting. Tubers oblong or rounded, flattened ; 
eyes faintly marked ; skin salmon-yellow ; flesh yellow ; shoot 
violet. 

Porter's Excelsior. — One of the most perfect Potatoes as 
regards the shape of the tubers, which are rounded, yet 
flattened as pebbles are, being nearly twice as broad as they are 
thick ; skin yellow, smooth ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot pink. Stems 
trailing on the ground ; leaves not numerous, dark green ; flowers 
white. This is a half-late variety ; it is not very productive, and its 
chief merit consists in the handsome appearance of the tubers. 

Professor {Kerr). — Tubers red, elongated, shaped like those 
of Early Rose ; eyes numerous, notched ; flesh white ; shoot red. 
Stems strong, coppery, almost erect. Flowers pink, numerous, 
seeding abundantly. 

Purple Ash-leaved Kidney (Synonyms : Jersey Purple, Black 
Kidney, Black Prince, Select Blue Ash-leaf, or Paterson's Long 
Blue). — Tubers long or very long, flattened, more or less kidney- 
shaped, and very smooth ; skin dark violet colour, even, without 
wrinkles or hollows around the eyes. Stems rather slender and 

brown ; leaves not numerous and of a 
dark gray-green colour ; flowers lilac. 
A rather early kind, tolerably pro- 
ductive, and of good quality. Many 
people do not like the dark violet 
colour of the tubers. 

Reading- Russet. — Productive, 
ripening mid-season. Tubers slightly 
elongated, thick, eyes faintly marked ; 
skin somewhat rough, grayish red ; 
Reading Russet Potato. Aesh pale yellow ; shoot red. 

Rector of Woodstock. — Tubers 
very regular in shape, round, but slightly flattened ; skin somewhat 
wrinkled, grayish white, faintly tinged with yellow ; eyes hardly 
marked ; flesh white, very floury, and fine flavoured ; shoot 
violet-coloured. Stems very short ; leaves slight, slender, and 
few ; flowers violet, rarely produced. This small variety is only 




POTATOES: ENGLISH VARIETIES 595 



moderately productive, but the tubers are of fine quality and 
exceptionally handsome. It is one of the best varieties raised 
by Mr. R. Fenn. 

Rentpayer. — Tubers yellow, usually round, sometimes long ; 
eyes few, not notched ; flesh white. A good sub-variety of 
Magnum Bonum. 

Saint Patrick. — A productive and vigorous kind. Tubers 
white or pale yellow, oblong, not flattened, and rather irregular in 
shape ; flesh white. 

Schoolmaster. — Tubers large, round, generally even and regular 
in shape ; skin rough, white ; very handsome, and of first-rate 
quality ; shoot pink. Flowers white. Great cropper ; one of the 
best Potatoes grown. 

Scotch Blue. — Tubers rounded, flattened in one part, smooth ; 
eyes faintly marked ; skin thin, and of a dark, almost blackish 
violet colour ; flesh white ; shoot dark violet. Stems rather 
short, but vigorous growing ; leaves 
rather broad, gray ; flowers violet- 
coloured. A half-late, rather pro- 
ductive, and very hardy variety, of 
fine quality. 

Standard.— This variety is re- 
commended for its handsome smooth 
white tubers and the delicate flavour 
of the flesh, which is white and 
floury. It is a pretty early and 
very productive kind, and is highly 
esteemed for table use. s^^^^^^^ P^^^,^_ 

Superb (Kerr). — Tubers yellow, 
round ; eyes numerous, slightly notched ; flesh very white ; shoot 
pink. 

Turner's Union. — Tubers yellow, round, small or medium-sized, 
and pretty regular in shape ; eyes somewhat sunk ; flesh pale 
yellow ; shoot yellowish white, with a violet-coloured point. Stems 
of scanty growth. Leaves rather large, but not numerous. Flowers 
lilac, usually abortive. A good small-sized early variety, but there 
-are many others of much more account. 

White Emperor. — A rather vigorous but short-stemmed variety. 
Tubers very sm.ooth, nearly white, round, and slightly flattened, 
very like those of the Model and Schoolmaster Potatoes ; shoot 
lilac. Leaves reticulated, and dull green. 

Wonderful Red Kidney. — A half-early variety. Tubers 
flattened, elongated, or somewhat kidney-shaped ; skin red, very 
smooth ; eyes faintly marked ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot red. 

Woodstock Kidney. — A handsome vigorous variety. Tubers 
white, oblong, smooth, and well shaped ; shoot violet. Stems stout 




596 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



and brown. , Leaves broad, and light green. Flowers violet, in 
strong clusters, and seeding abundantly. Somewhat subject to 
disease. 

Wormleighton Seedling.— A half-late variety with medium- 
sized stems and very large smooth almond-shaped tubers, handsome 
in appearance, but only fair in quality. * 

in. American Varieties 

For the last thirty years the Americans have been active 
in sowing Potato-seed for raising new varieties, and now rival the 
English raisers in the success which has attended their efforts. A 
great number of their new varieties — such as the Early Rose, 
Snowflake, etc. — were at once adopted by Potato-growers in 
Europe as well as in America. These varieties have already been 
described by us as of the first rank, and we shall now mention 
some others, which, perhaps, only require to be better known in 
order to be as well appreciated. 

Adirondack. — A vigorous mid-season variety. Tubers round 
or slightly flattened, smooth, pale red ; flesh white ; shoot pink. 
Stems erect ; leaves broad ; flowers reddish violet. 

Alpha. — An early variety. Tubers white, slightly elongated^ 
somewhat flattened ; stems short ; leaves fairly large, but scanty. 

Bresee's Peerless. — Tubers handsome, very much flattened, 
almost as broad as long, oblong or sometimes heart-shaped, and 
almost always notched at the bottom ; skin and flesh white ; shoot 
pink. Leaves pale green, broad, and somewhat curled ; flov/ers 
white. A half-early and exceedingly productive variety. 

Bresee's Prolific. — In productiveness and quality comparable 
to Early Rose. The tubers are flattened, oblong, sometimes almost 
square at both ends ; skin smooth, pale yellow more or less tinged 
with salmon-red, flesh white ; eyes faintly marked ; shoot pink. 

Brownell's Beauty. — Tubers oblong, rather flattened, and 
usually very broad ; skin somewhat wrinkled, and a dark, slightly 
vinous, red ; flesh white ; shoot pink. Stems erect and vigorous ; 
leaves rather broad, and yellowish green ; flowers lilac-red. A 
very productive mid-season variety, of great merit. The tubers are 
very handsome and generally very regular in shape. 

Calico. — Productive, half-late. Tuber rounded or oblong, but 
always flattened, skin very smooth, bright yellow, with broad red 
stripes ; eyes scarcely marked, flesh pale yellow ; shoot red. 

Centennial. — Tubers bright red, spherical or slightly flattened,, 
md very smooth ; eyes hardly marked ; shoot red. Stems of 
medium size ; leaves broad, pale green ; flowers reddish. A 
half-early and rather productive variety. The tubers keep well for 
an American kind. 

* Select List of Varieties, see pp. 770, 771. 



POTATOES: AMERICAN VARIETIES 597 



Compton's Surprise. — A vigorous half-early variety ; tubers 
purple, oblong, resembling those of Early Rose, except that they 
are purple ; flowers white. 

Early Cottage. — A very productive variety. Tubers large or 
very large, rounded, and thick ; eyes rather deeply sunk ; skin 
often wrinkled, and very pale yellow ; flesh white. Stems rather 
scanty in growth compared with the weight of the crop of tubers ; 
leaves gray-green and rather curled ; flowers lilac, usually abortive. 

Early Goodrich. — Tubers oblong, thick, not much flattened, 
often almost pointed at the top ; flesh and skin white ; shoot pink. 
Leaves of a very light green, almost yellow ; flowers white. A hand- 
some and productive variety, but too often attacked by the disease. 

Early Ohio. — Tubers pink, smooth, oblong ; eyes very faintly 
marked ; shoot red. Stems erect, stiff, slightly tinged with copper 
colour ; leaves very broad, flat, with extremely large leaflets of a 
light and grayish green. This variety does not flower. 

Eureka. — Tubers long, rather flattened, often square at the 
ends, and sometimes slightly notched ; skin white, hardly yellow, 
and very slightly wrinkled ; flesh white ; shoot pink. Stems of 
scanty growth ; leaves of a very light green ; flowers white. A 
very productive and rather early variety. The tubers are rather 
irregular in shape, and sometimes quite nondescript in this respect. 

Extra Early Vermont. — There is only an exceedingly slight 
shade of difference between this Potato and the Early Rose, so 
that they are often mistaken one for the other. The tuber of the 
Extra Early Vermont is a little broader and flatter, and ripens two 
or three days earlier than that of the Early Rose. 

King of the Earlies. — Tubers somewhat angular or irregular 
in shape, rounded and slightly flattened in their general outline, 
and with the eyes rather deeply sunk ; skin smooth, but dull in 
hue, of a salmon-tinted and grayish pink colour ; flesh white and 
floury ; shoot pink. Stems of very scanty growth ; leaves broad, 
of a pale grayish green, withering very early, without any flowers. 
This is really one of the earliest of all Potatoes. 

Late Rose. — In many respects this variety is very like the 
Early Rose, and even the difference in earliness which exists 
between the two varieties does not exceed ten days. The Late 
Rose, however, is distinguished by the greater size of its tubers, 
which, on the other hand, are not so numerous as those of the 
Early Rose. They are also of a purer pink, and not so much 
tinged with salmon colour. 

Manhattan. — Tubers round, slightly flattened, and variegated 
with yellow and violet colour ; shoot pink, spotted with violet 
Stems short and stiff, about 2 ft. high ; leaves rather abundant, 
broad, rounded, gray-green, much folded and reticulated ; flowers 
generally wanting. 



598 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Peach-blow. — Tubers rounded, very smooth, and of a fine 
white colour, slightly tinged with pink around the eyes ; shoot 
pink. Stems erect, stiff, vigorous, and spotted with brown : leaves 
numerous, rather slender, and light green, with oval-acute leaflets ; 
flowers numerous, violet-red, hardly ever producing seed. There 
is a sub-variety, named the White Peach-blovr, in vrhich the eyes 
are not tinged with pink. 

Queen of the Valley. — Tubers very handsome, large, oblong, 
slightly flattened, and very smooth ; eyes few and faintly marked ; 
skin very pale red ; shoot pink. The tubers are very like those of 
Brownell's Beauty, but are not so dark coloured. 

Ruby. — Tubers oblong, slightly flattened, smooth, regular in 
shape, and of a bright red colour ; flesh white. Stems of medium 
size, and rather vigorous growing : leaves of a pale and somewhat 
grayish green colour. A half-late variety. 

Triumph. — Tubers round and of a rather bright-red colour ; 
eyes slightly marked and not very deeply sunk ; shoot pink. A 
half-early and productive variet\'. 

Willard ^Red Fl'uke].—T\ihtri oblong or pear-shaped, almost 
pointed at the top and thick at the bottom ; skin rather smooth, 
bright red, sometimics marbled with yellow ; shoot pink. Stems 
erect and stiff ; leaves light green ; flowers lilac-red. A very 
distinct and rather handsome variety, but very subject to be 
attacked by the disease. 

IV. German Varieties 

Abdul Hamid {Paulsen^. — Tubers yellow, oblong ; eyes few 

and but little notched ; flesh yellow. A half-late variety, with 
short thick stems. Leaves crimped ; flowers lilac. 

Achilles. — Tubers large, rounded ; eyes somewhat sunk. Stems 
very vigorous, o\-er 3 ft. high, quadrangular, winged, and spotted 
with brown ; leaves numerous, but small, very much reticulated, 
curled, and of a blackish green colour ; flowers lilac, in numerous 
clusters, and yielding seed. 

Alkohol. — Tubers round, somewhat fl.a:tened ; eyes rather 
numerous and well marked. Stems about 2\ ft. high, stout, green, 
quadrangular, and erect ; leaves broad, clear green, and somewhat 
crimped ; flowers white, abortive. 

Aurora. — Tubers oval, flattened ; e\-es numerous and pretty 
v"ell marked. Stems thick, copper-colcured, often trailing, and 
about 2 ft. 8 in. long ; lea^^-es very abundant, fl.at, and of a clear, 
slightly grayish, green ; flo'vers white, abortive. 

The four preceding varieties were raised by ]\Ir. Paulsen, who 
has devoted his attention to the production of new varieties of 



i POTATOES: GERMAN VARIETIES 599 



Potatoes in Germany, as Mr. Fenn and Mr. Kerr have in England, 
and Mr. Bresee in America. 

Biscuit. — A vigorous and rather productive variety. Tubers 
small and very numerous, yellow, rounded, and slightly notched ; 
shoot pink. Stems rather long and slender ; leaves slight, pale 
green. Ripens half-early. 

Bismarck. — Much extolled some years ago ; but seldom grown 
now ; very rich in starch, but a poor cropper. Tubers small, 
round, red ; skin much split. Stems brown ; leaves dark green. 

Blaue Riesen. — Tubers very large, oblong, dark purple, often 
knobby ; flesh very white ; shoot violet. Stems strong and very 
long, usually spreading, and violet ; leaves small, dull green ; 
leaflets small, oval-pointed, hairy and more or less reticulated ; 
flowers violet striped white, falling without seeding. A field 
Potato, one of the few sorts that are unfit for the table. It is 
largely grown for starch, but its production is liable to variations, 
for which reason growers now prefer sorts of the Imperator type. 

Euphyllos. — Tubers white or faint pink, round or oblong ; eyes 
moderately sunk. A vigorous, productive, half-late variety, with 
large fine leaves, smooth, even, and light green, whence the variety 
derives its name. It is one of the varieties raised by M. Paulsen. 

Feinste kleine weisse Mandel. — Tubers ovoid, small, very 
numerous, nearly white, smooth, and without eyes ; shoot violet. 
Stems large ; flowers white. The quality of the tubers is good, 
but they are rather small sized. 

Friihe blaue Rosen-. — Tubers round, pale red, slightly striped 
purple ; eyes few, faintly notched ; flesh white. Leaves small, quite 
green ; flowers white. A variety for field culture. 

Friihe rothe Markische. — A good, hardy, and productive 
field variety. Tubers red, nearly round, and rather, smooth ; shoot 
red ; flesh yellow. Stems vigorous, often trailing ; leaves gray- 
green ; flowers red. Ripens half-late. 

Gelbe Rose {Pmilsen). — Tubers round, slightly tinged with 
pink ; flesh white, shoot pink ; but little grown now. 

Globus {Richter). — Late, productive, and vigorous. Tubers 
yellow, large, round, sometimes irregular in shape ; eyes numerous, 
deeply sunk ; flesh yellow. 

Hannibal {Paulsen). — Productive, rather late, suitable for field 
culture. Tubers round, slightly flattened ; skin thin, pink, coloured 
more deeply round the eyes ; flesh white ; flowers white. 

Hermann {Paulsen). — A late, productive variety, for field 
culture. Tubers round, medium-sized, somewhat knobby ; eyes 
pretty deeply sunk ; shoot violet-coloured. 

Juno {Paulsen). — Tubers flattened, oval or slightly square at the 
ends; skin pinkish white, more deeply coloured around the eyes and 
at the ends ; flesh yellowish white ; shoot pink. For field culture. 



6oo 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Kaiser-Kartoffel. — A fine, vigorous, and rather early kind, 
resembling certain American varieties, especially Bresee's Prolific ; 
it is, however, somewhat later and produces larger tubers. In habit 

of growth it is much 
the same. 

Karlder Grosse. — 
Tubers yellow, round ; 
eyes numerous, 
notched. Flesh and 
flow^ers white. 

Kleopatra {Paul- 
sen). — Tubers small, 
flattened, red ; eyes 
faintly marked, flesh 
white. Flowers lilac- 
red. 

Kopsell's friihe 
weisse Rosen- Kartoffel. — This variety very much resembles 
Bresee's Prolific, but is somewhat earlier, and has yellower tubers, 
with less of the pink tinge. The difference, however, is very 
slight, and it would be no great mistake to consider the two as 
synonymous. 

Lerchen- Kartoffel. — Tubers yellow, round, rather small, but 
numerous ; eyes somewhat sunk ; skin very smooth ; shoot white. 
Stems medium-sized, but fairly vigorous ; leaves light green ; 
flowers white. This handsome small variety is very distinct. 
The tubers are of good quality, but only moderately productive. 

Mangel-Wurzel (Synonyms : Doigt de Dame, Constance Peraut, 
Catawissa, Bush Potato). — Tubers long, broad, flattened, oblong, and 
most usually notched, entirely red, or variegated with red and yellow, 
and generally very large, sometimes weighing over two pounds 
each. Most commonly they ripen irregularly and keep badly. A 
late kind, more suitable for feeding cattle than for table use. 

Montana. — Tubers pink, long ; eyes few, flesh yellow. A late 
variety with erect, strong, brown stems ; flowers lilac- 

Richter's Schneerose. — Tubers large, thick, oblong, white ; eyes 
faintly marked ; shoot pink. Stems vigorous, erect, about 2\ ft. 
high. Leaves stiff, broad, round, and of a dark and somewhat 
gray green. Flowers pink, opening well, but falling off abortive. 

Riesen Sand-Kartoffel (P. de Terre Geante). — Tubers long, 
flat, yellow variegated with red, especially towards the top ; eyes 
rather deeply sunk ; shoot pink. Stems short, very stiff, thick, 
and green ; leaves very much curled arfd reticulated, rather broad, 
and of a dark green colour ; flowers pink, abortive. 

Rosalie {Paulsen). — Vigorous and productive. Tubers oblong, 
thick, somewhat knobby, eyes not much sunk, marked with pink, as 




Juno Potato. 



POTATOES: GERMAN VARIETIES 6oi 



is also the end of the tuber ; flesh white, fine and very floury ; 
shoot pink. Stems erect, fairly strong ; leaves large, light green ; 
flowers pinkish lilac. Early, and rich in starch. 

Rothe Unvergleichliche Salat-Kartoffel. — Tubers nearly 
cylindrical, one and a half times or twice as long as broad, very 
much notched ; skin red. Distinguished from those of any other 
kind by the appearance of the flesh, which is variegated with red 
and yellow. Stems rather crowded together, vigorous, and very 
leafy. A somewhat late kind, but keeps well. 

Sachsische Zwiebel-Kartoffel gelbfleischige {Rouge de 
BoJieme). — Tubers round or somewhat long, not flattened, and 
rather notched ; skin entirely red or red variegated with yellow ; 
shoot pink ; flesh pure yellow. Stems very vigorous, branching, 
sometimes nearly 6J ft. long ; leaves very abundant, and dark 
green ; flowers violet-red. A late but very vigorous and productive 
variety. The tubers keep well, and contain a good deal of starch. 

Sachsische Zwiebel-Kartoffel weissfleischige. — Tubers 
rounded, somewhat flattened, of medium and very uniform size; eyes 
slightly sunk ; skin smooth, red ; flesh white ; shoot pink. Stems 
luxuriant, long, rather slender, and usually branching and trailing ; 
leaves of a dark and slightly gray green ; flowers generally abortive. 

Spargel-Kartoffel {P. de Terre Asperge). — Tubers small, almost 
cylindrical, but short, being only twice as long as broad ; skin and 
flesh yellow ; shoot pink. Stems of medium height, rather slender ; 
leaves clear green ; flowers white. A half-late and very distinct 

small kind, esteemed on account 
of the firmness of the flesh, 
which is not easily broken, even 
when cooked. 

Unica {Paulsen). — Half- 
early ; tubers yellow, round, 
notched ; flesh pale yellow ; 
flowers pink, in large clusters. 

Van der Veer. — Tuber 
rounded or slightly elongated ; 
skin smooth orsomewhat rough ; 
eyes pretty much sunk ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot pink. Late and 
productive ; suitable for field culture. 




Van der Veer Potato. 



SWEET POTATO 

Coitvolvulus Batatas^ L. Convolvulaccce. 

French, Patate douce. Italian, Patata. Spaiiish and Portuguese, Batata, 

Native of South America. — Perennial, but cultivated as an annual. 
— Stems creeping, often lO ft. long or more, with numerous heart- 
shaped leaves of a dark green colour, sometimes glistening ; flowers 



602 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



axillary, like those of a Convolvulus, seldom blooming in the 
climate of Paris ; roots abundant, very much ramified, and bearing 
tubers more or less rounded or elongated in shape, according to 
the variety. The flesh of these tubers is tender, floury, sweet, and, 
in most cases, rather perfumed. They are the edible part of the 
plant, and are produced in very great abundance in warm countries, 
where, as an article of food, they occupy, to a certain extent, the 
same place which the Potato does with us. 

Culture. — As the Sweet Potato requires a rather long time 
to complete its growth, it is difficult to cultivate it in the climate 
of Paris without the aid of artificial heat ; and as, moreover, the 
tubers keep badly in northern countries, gardeners are in the habit 
of starting some plants in the middle or end of winter, either in a 
plant-house or in a hot-bed. As soon as the shoots are strong 
enough, they are detached from the tubers and planted separately 
in pots, in which they remain until they are planted out. This is 
done from March to the end of May, according as it is desired to 
forward the growth of the plants. Those planted out in March 
and April should have the protection of a frame. In May this is 
not required, and the plants may then be simply put out on beds 
of dry leaves covered with from 4 to 6 in. of light soil or compost. 
Copious waterings are necessary as soon as the hot weather 
commences, and the stems quickly cover the whole bed, and even 
extend beyond it. In the South only, the Sweet Potato may be 
planted in the open air on sloping beds of rich mellow soil, and 
watered by means of trenches cut between the beds, which should 
be at least 6J ft. apart. The tubers are well grown in four or five 
months, and are taken up as late as possible in the climate of 
Paris, but care must be taken to lift the crop as soon as the stems 
and leaves have been touched by frost, as, the soil being no longer 
covered by the foliage, the frost would easily reach the tubers, 
which very often grow level with the surface of the ground, and are 
very sensitive to cold. The tubers are very difficult to keep, cold 
and damp being equally injurious to them ; they should, therefore, 
be kept in a very dry place, the temperature of which should be as 
uniform as possible, and never fall below 5 or 6° C. (40" or 42"* 
Fahr.). It is sometimes a good plan to store them in boxes, which 
are then filled up with dry sand, peat, or sawdust. The tubers 
should not be allowed to touch one another, and the boxes should 
be examined from time to time, and any tubers which have 
commenced to decay should be removed. Like the ordinary 
Potato, the Sweet Potato may be propagated from seed, but 
varieties are not reproduced true in this way, and it is only 
employed for the purpose of raising new varieties. However, the 
plant never seeds in the climate of Paris, and it is useless to 
attempt the culture of it in England. 



I 

' SWEET POTATO 603 



Uses. — The tubers are prepared in various ways and eaten like 
those of the ordinary Potato. The flesh is sweet, very tender, 
and, in most varieties, has a perfume somewhat like the scent of 
violets. As in the case of the common Potato, there is a vast 
difference in the flavour of well-grown " mealy " and that of waxy 
roots. 

Of Sweet Potatoes, an almost infinite number of varieties are 
cultivated. We shall only mention the earliest kinds, and those 
which succeed best in France. 

Patate Igname. — Tubers very large, oval or oblong, blunt at the 
ends, and often channelled or furrowed ; skin grayish white ; flesh 
white, not very fine in texture, rather floury, and moderately sweet. 
This is one of the most productive kinds, the tubers sometimes 
weighing nearly nine pounds each. 

Patate Jaune. — A somewhat late variety, but of excellent 
quality. Tubers long, slender, very thin, about 16 in. long and 2 in. 
in diameter ; skin yellow, smooth ; flesh of a handsome yellow 
colour, very fine flavoured and sweet. 

Patate Rose de Malaga.— Tubers oblong, somewhat variable 
in shape, often marked with longitudinal furrows, and thicker at 
one end than at the other ; skin 
of a somewhat grayish pink colour ; 
flesh yellow, very fine in texture, 
and moderately sweet. This is one 
of the earliest and most productive 
varieties. 





Rose de Malaga Sweet Potato (|- natural size). Red Sweet Potato natural size). 



Red Sweet Potato. — This is the sweetest, most highly per- 
fumed, and least floury of all varieties. Tubers very long and 
slender, about 20 in. in length, by 2 in. or less in the diameter of the 
thickest part, but much thinner at both ends. They are almost 



6o4 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



always sinuated or undulated. Skin smooth, red slightly tinged 
with violet ; flesh white in the interior, and light pink under the 
skin. This is the variety which is most generally grown by 
gardeners in the vicinity of Paris. 

Many other varieties of Sweet Potato are cultivated in Algeria 
and other French colonies, and even in the United States, w^here 
this vegetable forms an important article of commerce. 



PURSLANE 

Portulaca oleracea, L. PortulacacecB. 

French, Fompier. Genna7i, Vortulsk. Flemish BXid Dutch, VosiQ\\]n. Danish, 
Portulak. Italian, Porcellana. Spanish, Verdolaga. Portuguese, Beldroega. 

Native of India. — Annual. — The Purslane, which appears to be 
undoubtedly of East Indian origin, has been naturalised amongst 
us to the extent of having become a weed. It has a thick fleshy 
stem, which sprawls on the ground when the plant grows alone, 
but is unbranched and erect in plants grown closely together. 
Leaves thick, shortly spathulate ; flowers very small, yellow, 
growing from the axils of the leaves, and succeeded by rounded, 
slightly compressed seed-vessels filled with very small, shining, 

black seeds. Their germi- 
nating power lasts for seven 
years at least. 

Culture. — The seed is 
sown, either in drills or 
broad-cast, in light soil, from 
May to August, and the 
leaves and stems may begin 
to be gathered for use in 
about two months after 
sowing. The same plants 
will yield two or three 
gatherings, provided they 
are watered frequently. Sow- 
ings are often made in frames 
or on hot-beds, in order to 
obtain a winter or spring 
supply. In this case the 
seed is sown from December 
to March on hot-beds, as 
the plant requires a pretty 
high temperature to grow 
vigorously, and leaves may be 
gathered in two months or two months and a half after sowing. 
Uses. — The leaves are eaten cooked, or raw as salad. 




Green Purslane natural size ; detached 
branch, \ natural size). 



PURSLANE 



605 



Green Purslane. — This is the wild plant developed and 
increased in size by continuous cultivation of selected large-leaved 
specimens. Even in the wild state some Purslane-plants are met 
with which have a more marked tendency than others to grow 
with the stems erect in- 
stead of sprawling on the 
ground, and this form it 
has naturally been sought 
to reproduce and improve 
by cultivation, as being 
more productive on an 
equal area, and more easy 
to gather than plants of 
spreading habit. 

Golden Purslane. — 
This variety is easily dis- 
tinguished from the pre- 
ceding one by the light, 
almost yellow, tint of its 
leaves. It is grown and 
used in exactly the same 
manner. Its peculiar tint 
appears to be less owing 
to a weaker colouring of 
the parenchyma of the leaf 
than to a greater thickness 
of the epidermis, which is 
of a yellow hue. When 
cooked, the leaves do not differ very much in colour from those 
of the Green Purslane. 

Large-leaved Golden Purslane. — This variety is very distinct 
on account of the size of the leaves, which are at least double as 
large as those of the two preceding kinds, and grow closer together 
on the stem. The plant does not grow quite so rapidly as either 
of the two other kinds, but it is quite as productive, being more 
thick set and compact in habit. 




Large-leaved Golden Purslane (I natural size ; 
detached branch, ^ natural size). 



WINTER PURSLANE 

Claytonia perfoliata^ Don. PortulacacecB. 

French, Claytone perfoliee. Flemish, Doorwas. Dutch, Winter-postelijn. Spanishy 

Verdolaga de Cuba. 

Native of Cuba. — Annual. — Leaves all radical, very tender^ 
thick, and fleshy, the earliest ones very narrow and lanceolate, the 
following ones more or less broad, but always pointed ; stems 
numerous, somewhat taller than the leaves, and bearing at the end. 



6o6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



a sort of broadly funnel-shaped collarette of the same texture as 
the leaves, from the centre of which issue short panicles of small 
white flowers ; seeds small, black, slightly flattened, and lentil- 




Winter Purslane (| natural size). 

shaped. Their germinating power lasts for five years. The seed 
is sown, where the plants are to stand, all through spring and 
summer. The leaves are eaten as salad, or cooked like ordinary 
Purslane or Spinach. 



RADISHES 

Rapha7tus sativus^ L. Cruciferce. 

French, Radis. German. Radies. Flemish^ and Dutch, Radijs. Danish, Haveroed-dike. 
Italian, Ravanello. Spanish, Rabanito. Portuguese, Rabao. 

Native of South Asia (?). — Annual. — The type or original plant 
from which the cultivated forms of Radishes have been derived is 
not known with certainty. The question has given rise to many 
inquiries and discussions, and probably will give rise to many more, 
as the highest and most competent authorities on the subject 
hesitate to decide the point. Up to the present, no wild plant has 
been found with characteristics which would allow of its being 
regarded unmistakably as the progenitor of cultivated Radishes. 
The opinion that these have sprung from Raphanus Raphanistrum 
(the Wild Radish of our fields) may be maintained, but there are 
very important indications which appear to us to be opposed to it. 
Besides the differences in the colour of the flowers (which, in the 
'Wild Radish, are often yellow, but never so in the cultivated 



RADISHES 



607 



varieties), and in the formation of the siliques or seed-vessels 
(which are jointed in the Wild Radish, and not so in the others), 
it must be observed that the cultivated plants are much more 
sensitive to cold than our native Wild Radish, a fact which would 
appear to point to a more southern clime as the native habitat of 
the first parents of these plants. Moreover, the stems of the 
cultivated plants grow erect, and not in an inclined or almost 
prostrate position, as is frequently the case with the Wild Radish. 
There are two Asiatic forms of Radish which have unjointed, fleshy, 
■edible seed-vessels, viz. the Madras Radish (Radis de Madras) and 
the Mougri, or Snake Radish, of Java {Mougri de Java ou Radis 
Serpent), and it is towards the countries in which these forms, 
resembling the cultivated Radish in the structure of the seed-vessel 
and in all their characteristics of growth, are found, that we think 
we should look for the original plant which was their common 
ancestor. 

The cultivated Radish is looked upon as an annual, because the 
growth of the flower-stems is not preceded by any period of repose 
in the growth of the plant ; the large late varieties, however, should 
rather be considered biennial. The leaves are oblong in shape, the 
flower-stems are branched, and the flowers are white or lilac, but 
never yellow. The seed is reddish, round or slightly elongated, 
and usually somewhat flattened at the sides. Its germinating 
power lasts for five years. 



The French are such excellent 
Radish growers that those who care 
to be informed as to the best way of 
growing these roots can hardly do 
better than read the cultural notes 
given under the three divisions. 
For various reasons, however, it may 
be well to give here the culture 
usually pursued in our own country, 
both in private and market gardens. 
•A small and constant supply of crisp, 
•delicately flavoured bulbs should be 
the only aim. The earliest will be 
had from a hot-bed or from under 
■some glass protection. It is seldom 
we grow a special frame of Radishes, 
but secure all we want from frames 
planted with other crops. In Janu- 
ary and February we are frequently 
making up beds of manure and 
leaves for forcing Potatoes, Carrots, 
«tc., and amongst these are sown a 
few Radishes. When the Potatoes, 



for example, are planted in rows 
15 in. apart, a row of Radishes may 
be sown between, and they will be 
ready for use and cleared off before 
the Potato crop in any way inter- 
feres with them. In Carrot-frames 
the same thing may be done, and 
sometimes a Radish-seed is dropped 
in here and there amongst the Car- 
rots, as they will push up and be 
cleared off before the Carrots require 
much top room. Thus young spring 
Radishes are obtained without any 
special attention ; many, however, 
who try to grow early Radishes in 
this way make mistakes. One of 
these is sowing the seed too thickly, 
so that when the plants come up 
they are as a mat at top and bottom, 
and when this is the case useful 
roots are never formed. Thinning 
out some of the plants as soon as 
they can be handled is one way of 



6o8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



avoiding this, but it is a wasteful 
way; the better plan is always to 
sow thinly. One seed every few 
inches will give a much finer crop 
and better results altogether than 
close sowing. Many doubtless 
wonder why their Radishes do not 
all bulb, but allov/ing them to grow 
too close together is, as a rule, the 
cause of this. Many are most 
particular, too, in getting their seeds 
in and the crop brought to maturity, 
but after the usable part of it has 
been gathered neglect follows, and 
where Radishes have been raised in 
a Potato or Carrot frame it is no 
uncommon thing to see worthless 
Radish tops overshadowing every- 
thing by the time the other crops 
should have been at their best. 
Cultivators should always be parti- 
cular in clearing away all Radishes 
as soon as they become too old for 
use, and any which do not bulb early 
may be thrown away altogether. 

Special Beds. — In making up a 
special bed for early Radishes, a very 
shallow bed of fermenting material 
is sufficient ; about i ft. in depth is 
enough, and 6 in. of soil should be 
put on the top of this. They bulb 
fastest early in the year in a mode- 
rately rich sandy mixture. The seed 
should be sown broadcast, very 
thin, and it should not be covered 
more than | in. deep. The earliest 
seed may be sown in frames in 
January and February, but in the 
latter month and throughout March 
seed may also be sown along the 
base of a south wall or in any 
sheltered sunny spot. Here the rule 
as to thin sowing should also be ob- 
served ; in fact, this must be kept in 
mind throughout. When the little 
plants appear at first in the colder 
months of spring a slight protection 
will favour their free growth. A few 
branches or some similar covering is 
all that is needed. 



Summer Radishes. — From April 
onwards throughout the summer 
select spots need not be chosen for 
Radishes, as they will do almost 
anywhere, their only requirements 
being a firm, rich, cool soil. With- 
out this, especially in summer, the 
roots will become hot and stringy 
before they are well developed, and 
the period of their use will be very 
short. In general culture some may 
prefer having the seed in rows; 
others may sow broadcast, and good 
Radishes may be had in both ways. 
At no time should the seed be 
put more than J in. below the 
surface ; the soil should always be 
trodden firmly over it, as this in- 
duces the plants to bulb quicker 
and better than when in loose 
material. 

Winter Radishes.— Our rule is to 
sow a small quantity of seed every 
three weeks from the middle of 
January until the beginning of 
September, when we stop all sow- 
ings and dealings with the summer 
varieties, and devote one good large 
piece of ground to the Chinese 
Scarlet for winter. This sowing is 
made on a south border which may 
have been previously cleared of Pota- 
toes or some other crop. The seed 
is put in in rows 15 in. apart, in 
order that plenty of air and light may 
be admitted to them in winter, and 
if the young plants come up too 
close they are thinned out to 6 in. 
apart. Under this treatment a 
uniform crop of useful bulbs is the 
result. We generally gather some 
of these by the end of October, when 
they are no larger than filberts. 
To have Radishes in the best 
possible condition, they must be 
grown quickly ; and to do this in dry 
soils, frequent waterings during dry 
weather must be given them, other- 
wise by the time the roots are of 
a usable size they will generally 



RADISHES 



609 



be stringy and ill-flavoured. Small 
sowings in quick succession are, 
therefore, preferable to large ones 
made at long intervals apart. 

Culture for Market. — In the 
London market-gardens, the first 
two crops of Radishes of the year 
are generally grown amongst fruit- 
trees, if bush fruits or Roses do not 
occupy the ground. By sowing 
time, which is in November and 
December, the trees are leafless and 
pruned ; therefore they do not offer 
much shade to the young Radish- 
plants, but rather protect them 
from cold winds and severe frosts, 
and before the trees have made much 
growth in spring the Radishes are 
fit for market, and the ground when 
■cleared of them is available for being 
planted with Lettuces or other 
plants that are best suited for a 
shady situation. Crops of Radishes 
to succeed those under fruit-trees 
are sown in open quarters, in 6 -ft. 
wide beds with alleys between them. 
After sowing, the seed is raked in 
with wooden rakes, and afterwards 
slightly covered with fine soil taken 
from the alleys. The surface of the 
bed is then rolled and, in the case 
of early sowings, shghtly covered 
with long litter, which after the 
■seeds have germinated is removed 
on every favourable opportunity, 
but immediately replaced on the 
appearance of frosty, snowy, or 
5tormy weather. After the second 
week in February coverings are 
dispensed with if the weather is at 
all likely to continue mild for a time, 
as the plants have by this time 
become strong and better able to 
-stand the cold. The litter is, how- 
ever, kept in the alleys in case of 
emergency until all danger from 



frost is over, when it is removed 
entirely and converted into manure. 
Successional sowings are made in 
February, March, and April, in a 
manner similar to that just described, 
and in some cases during the sum- 
mer. But, except in moist situations, 
Radishes do not succeed well in 
hot weather ; therefore, where such 
situations do not exist, sowing ceases 
in spring, and recommences in 
August and September, if the weather 
be at all showery. A good crop of 
Radishes during the summer is pro- 
fitable, and especially so in dry 
seasons. The ground chosen for 
them is usually that recently cleared 
of Celery, French Beans, Rhubarb, 
or Vegetable Marrows, which, after 
being deeply dug and heavily 
manured, is levelled and otherwise 
prepared to receive the seed. Some- 
times Radishes are sown between 
Asparagus ridges, and in such posi- 
tions they succeed remarkably well 
on account of the soil being deep 
and rich. When Radishes are re- 
quired earlier in the spring than 
they can be gathered from the 
December outdoor sowing, they are 
obtained from frames placed on hot- 
beds, or trenches are dug out and 
filled with manure, on which a little 
soil is placed, and after sowing, the 
beds are covered over with litter. 
In March the first outdoor crops are 
usually ready for market. Birds 
are the worst enemies with which 
the Radish grower has to contend, 
and when large quantities are grown 
it is found necessary to employ boys 
to scare them away, otherwise they 
would devour all the seed, and even 
pull up the young plants in order to 
obtain the husks which adhere to 
the young leaves. 



USES. — The roots are eaten raw. 

The varieties of Radishes are very numerous, and we shall 
divide them, according to their period of culture, into Small or 



39 



6io 



THE VEGETABLE GARDExN 



Forcing, Summer or Autumn, and Winter Radishes, the mode of 
culture which is suitable for each of these divisions being very 
different from that which should be employed for the others. 

I. Small, or Forcing-, Radishes 

These Radishes are sown in the open air from February to 
November, usually broadcast in beds, and the seedlings are thinned 
out so as to allow the plants to grow evenly. The beds should be 
kept free from weeds, and frequently watered in hot dry weather. 
In about from sixteen to eighteen days, if the weather is favour- 
able, and fr'om twenty to twenty-five days if otherwise, the earliest 
plants will be fit for use. As for the rest, it may be four, five, or 
six weeks, according to the weather, before they are fit to be pulled. 
In spring, or late in autumn, the seed should be sown in a warm 
sheltered position ; in summer a cool shady place is preferable. 
Sowings should be made in succession every fortnight or ten days, 
in order to keep up a supply of young tender Radishes. In Decem- 
ber, January, and February, the seed is sown on hot-beds under 
frames or bell-glasses. The market-gardeners of Paris grow 
Radishes in the depth of winter on hot-beds covered with leaf- 
mould or compost, without any protection except that of straw mats, 
which are placed over them at night and in frosty weather, and are 
taken off whenever the weather is not too severe. These Radishes 
are usually fit to be pulled in from five to six weeks after sowing. 

A. Round, or Turnip-rooted, Radishes 

Scarlet Turnip Radish. — Root nearly spherical, slightly top- 
shaped when very young ; skin somewhat 
vinous red ; flesh white, slightly tinged 
with pink ; leaves rounded, cut at the 
edges, and of a somewhat glaucous green 
colour ; leaf-stalks faintly bronzed. In 
fine weather, as in May, this Radish is 
fit for use in about twenty-five days after 
sowing. It is hardy, does not become 
hollow at the centre too quickly, and 
grows well in ordinary garden soil. 

Early Scarlet Turnip Radish. — Root 
^ L more flattened than that of the preceding 
V kind, well rounded underneath, having 
^ ' only a very slender, small tap-root, and 
resembling the ordinary Scarlet Turnip 
Radish in the colour of the skin ; flesh 
very white ; leaves short and close growing. 
Scarlet Turnip Radish Jhis variety is fit for use in about twenty 
(A natural size). days after sowmg, and can be grown m 




SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES 



6ii 




Forcing Scarlet Turnip Radish. 



ordinary garden soil, but compost or leaf-mould suits it much better. 
It becomes hollow at the centre sooner than the preceding kind. 

Forcing Scarlet Turnip Radish. — Root small, very regular, 
becoming^ quickly spherical, of a beautiful carmine-red, and leaves 
light and short. The root 
is formed and ready to 
pull before the fourth leaf 
(besides the cotyledons) 
has attained its full de- 
velopment — in sixteen 
or eighteen days. It re- 
quires to be grown in pure 
decayed spent manure 
{terreau). 

Early Scarlet White- 
tipped Turnip Radish. 
— A handsome and exceedingly early variety. Root round. It 
is the only garden Radish that is really pink in colour, the two 
preceding kinds being more of a carmine-red ; but in this variety 
the upper part of the root is a true bright pink, which makes a 
pleasing contrast with the white of the lower part. The root of this 
Radish swells more speedily than that of any other variety, but it 
also quickly becomes hollow at the centre, and should be pulled for 

use as soon as it is fully grown. 
It grows really well only in compost 
or leaf-mould, and is sometimes fit 
for use in from^ sixteen to eighteen 
days after sowing. The market- 
gardeners about Paris grow it in 
preference to all other kinds for 
an early crop. 





Scarlet White-tipped Turnip Radish. Forcing Scarlet White-tipped Turnip Radish. 



Forcing Scarlet White-tipped Turnip Radish. — Still earlier 
than the preceding one, it differs from it mostly by its leaves, 
which are extremely short and light. It is admirably suited for 



6l2 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Early Deep Scarlet Turnip 
Radish. 



raising an early crop, and succeeds much better on spent manure 
than in garden soil. 

Early Scarlet Globe Radish.— Introduced from America a good 
many years ago, it forms rapidly small uniformly bright red roots. 

The leaves are small, like those of the other 
forcing Radishes, and the root, although 
not so long as in the olive-shaped sorts, is 
not as round as in the turnip varieties, and 
would be as correctly described as oval 
as globe. 

Blood-red Turnip Radish. — A hardy 
Radish with globe-shaped roots of peculiar 
brown-red colour, and white, firm flesh ; 
it requires less care, when grown in the 
open ground, than the other early sorts, 
and keeps longer without becoming pithy. 
In ordinary conditions it is fit for use 
twenty-eight to thirty days after sowing. 
Early Deep Scarlet Turnip Radish. — A very handsome 
variety. Root very round, or slightly flattened, and of an 
exceedingly bright colour ; flesh white, firm, crisp, and very 
pleasant to the taste ; leaves of a somewhat lighter green 
than those of the pink-skinned Radishes. This variety is 
often fit for use in about twenty days after sowing. It grows 
well in ordinary garden soil, and still better in compost or leaf- 
mould. 

Forcing Deep Scarlet Turnip Radish. — A handsome small 
variety, remarkable for 
its bright colour and for 
its small leaves. An early 
forcing Radish, it is fit 
for the market within 
fifteen to twenty days 
from sowing time, accord- 
ing to circumstances. 

Forcing- Deep Scar- 
let White-tipped Turnip 
Radish. — This variety is 
very like other small 
Radishes for forcing in 
the smallness of its leaves 
and the rapidity with 
which the root is formed, 
early crops. 

Forcing Bright Red 
carmine, of excellent quality. A very early variety, and well adapted 




Forcing Deep Scarlet Turnip Radish. 

It is one of the most grown sorts 



for 



Leafless Radish. — Root ovoid, bright 



SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES 613 



for forcing ; remarkable also for its scant foliage, often confined to 
the two cotyledons and two 
additional small, short, and 
rough leaves. This, with 
its great earliness, makes it 
apt for growing under glass. 
It seldom seeds. 

Triumph Radish. — In 
general characteristics it 
belongs to the forcing 
turnip-rooted Radishes ; it 
has their globe-shaped root, 
small leaves, and their 
earliness. Its peculiarity 
consists in thescarlet streaks 
with which the white root 
is covered. On some roots 

either the red or the white Forcing Bright Red Leafless Radish. 

colour predominates, but as 

a rule the stripes are distinct, and contrast agreeably with the 
uniform colouring of the other early Radishes. 

White Turnip Radish. — A handsome variety. Root nearly 




round, flattened only when 
it attains a very large 
size ; leaves pretty large, 
erect, and light green. 
Although it is only two 
or three days later than 
the Early White Turnip 
Radish, this kind is more 
suitable for open-air cul- 
ture than for forcing. The 
flesh is white, firm, and 
agreeably pungent. 

Small Early White 
Turnip Radish. — Root 
rounded, usually flattened 
above and underneath, 
often twice as broad as 



f deep ; leaves short, rather 

' . : spreading, very much cut 

^ . . or divided, somewhat gray, 
* ' ' ■ ' i i ; ; : , ; H . : M |r and tinged with brown on 

' the veins and in the middle. 

Triumph Radish. ^j^j^ variety the roots 

do not swell very quickly, as they take at least from twenty to 




6x4 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Small Early White Turnip Radish 
natural size). 



twenty-five days from the time of sowing before they are fit to 
be pulled for use. It is, however, employed for forcing, especially 
in northern countries. Even when quite small, this Radish is 

remarkably pungent, and its flavour 
is sometimes so strong as to be 
hardly endurable. 

Early Purple Turnip Radish. 
— Root slightly top-shaped, of a 
fine clear violet colour ; flesh white, 
almost transparent ; leaves rather 
large, cut, or divided, erect, and 
light green. The roots of this 
variety take about a month to 
swell, but they remain a long time 
without becoming hollow at the 
centre. It is a true " all-the-year- 
round" Radish. 

White-tipped Purple Turnip 
Radish. — A handsome, small kind, 
with an almost spherical root, dark 
violet-colour around the neck, becoming paler towards the lower 
extremity, which is white. Leaf-stalks and veins of the leaves 
violet-coloured or brown ; leaves rather scant. Like the Early 
White-tipped Scarlet Radish, this variety should be sown at intervals 
of about a fortnight, as it soon becomes hollow. 

Very Early Yellow Turnip Radish. — Great numbers of yellow 
Radishes have during the past few years been recommended as 
sufficiently early to rank among the forcing 
Radishes, and none deserves better than 
this to be classed among such Radishes. 
The root is formed in summer within about 
twenty-five days; it is perfectly round, well 
shaped, and of a fine ochre-yellow. The 
leaves are short and few in comparison 
with the size of the root. 



B. Intermediate, or Olive-shaped, 

Varieties 

Olive-shaped Scarlet Radish.— Root 
ovoid, slightly elongated, usually olive- 
shaped, sometimes almost cylindrical for 
a good part of its length, and rounded 
at both ends. In colour a very deep 
carmine ; flesh white, firm, and crisp ; 
leaves rounded^ light green, rather broad. 




Olive-shaped Scarlet Radish 
(I natural size). 



/ 



SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES 615 




and not quite so large as those of the Scarlet Turnip Radish. This 
is one of the kinds which are most extensively grown in kitchen- 
gardens and for market supply. It grows well in the open ground, 
and remains some time without becoming hollow. * The market- 
gardeners of Paris often try to raise it with 
the roots long and slender, rather than ovoid 
in shape, and they succeed in doing so by 
covering the beds with compost or leaf-mould 
as soon as the young plants are pretty well up. 

French Breakfast Radish. — Under this 
name two distinct varieties are grown, differing 
from each other not only in colour, but also in 
productiveness, etc. The Parisian strain is a 
very handsome variety, of the same shape as 
the preceding, or not quite so long ; skin a 
florid and rather lively pink on the upper French Breakfast Radish, 
part — four-fifths — of the root, and white on 

the lower part. Like the White-tipped Scarlet Turnip Radish, 
this variety is exceedingly early ; but the root very soon becomes 
hollow if it is not pulled as soon as it is fully formed. It grows 
much better in a hot-bed, or in compost or leaf-mould, than in 
ordinary garden soil. 

The kind known as the Southern strain is rather thicker and 
longer in the root than the Parisian, and the pink colour is not 
quite so bright, and one-fourth of the root is white. The greater 

size of the white blotch of this variety 
distinguishes it sufficiently, and it has 
the advantage of being well suited for 
sowings during summer in the open 
ground, whereas the Parisian sort is a 
market-garden Radish. 

Forcing Olive-shaped Scarlet 
White-tipped Radish. — Root twice 
or thrice as long as thick, almost 
cylindrical, of a bright rose colour, 
ending in a fine tap-root which is 
white, as is also the end of the root. 
The leaves are not different from those 
of other forcing Radishes. It is one 
of the earliest, being, under average 
conditions, fit for pulling from fifteen 
to eighteen days after sowing. 
Deep Scarlet Intermediate Radish. — This variety is as distinct 
in the colour of the skin as it is in the shape of the root, which is 
longer, and terminates in a longer and finer point than that of any 
other Intermediate variety. Leaves light green in colour, rather 




Deep Scarlet Intermediate Radish. 



6i6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Early Deep Scarlet Olive- 
shaped Radish. 



large, and erect ; flesh very white, firm, crisp, very juicy, strong, and 
pungent. This is a fairly hardy kind, and very suitable for growing 
in the open air. The roots take about twenty-five days to swell, 
and do not become hollow too soon. 

Early Deep Scarlet Olive -shaped 
Radish. — This is one of the handsomest 
and best of all the Small or Forcing 
Radishes. The root is regularly olive-shaped, 
very symmetrical, and very smooth ; flesh 
white and firm ; leaves short, stiff, and few 
for the size of the root. The plant grows 
well in the open air. The roots take about 
twenty to twenty-two days to swell. Its 
earliness and scanty foliage render it equally 
suitable for forcing. This variety is easily 
distinguished from the preceding one, by 
the roots being shorter and terminating more 
abruptly at the base, instead of gradually 
diminishing to a point. The flesh is tender, mild, cool, and hardly 
pungent. 

Forcing Olive-shaped Deep Scarlet Short-leaf Radish. — A 

handsome very early kind, rooting as early as any of the turnip- 
shaped sorts. Olive-shaped root, tapering at the end, and showing 
a tendency to grow into a top shape. Leaves very small, erect, 
with stalk and veins tinged with copper colour. The root is gene- 
rally sufficiently formed as soon as three leaves have developed, 
besides the cotyledons. 

Olive-shaped Deep Scarlet 
White - tipped Radish. — An 
offspring of the French Break- 
fast Radish, selected by the 
Parisian market-gardeners until 
it is hardly possible to recognise 
its origin. It is now almost 
cylindrical in shape, and deep 
crimson, almost blood-red, in 
colour. Thus quite a distinct 
strain has been established, 
which, like the French Breakfast 
Radish, has also produced a 
forcing sub-variety, hereafter 
described. 

Forcing- Olive-shaped Deep Scarlet White-tipped Radish. — 

One of the quickest to crop ; it is, on average conditions, fit to be 
pulled fifteen to eighteen days after sowing. Its colour is a very 
bright scarlet-red, contrasting vividly with the white blotch at the 




Olive-shaped Deep Scarlet White-tipped 
Radish. 



SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES 617 



extreme end of the root. It comes quite true from seed, has very 
scanty foliage, and is admirably suited for forcing. 

Purple Olive-shaped Radish. — Root ovoid, almost pear- 
shaped, the thickest part being near the base. The upper half 
is of a black-violet colour, which gradually becomes paler until it 
passes into pure white at the extremity. The leaves are scanty, 
rather cut at the edges, and tinged with violet-brown on the stalks, 
veins, and sometimes on the blade of the leaf itself, giving the foliage 
a rather pleasing appearance. The flesh is white, hard, and strong 
flavoured. The roots take about a month to swell. This variety 
is especially suitable for open-air culture, but is also well adapted 
for forcing. 

White Olive-shaped Radish. — When this variety is grown 
true to name, the root is very handsome, very regularly olive- 
shaped, and of a very fresh pure white colour ; flesh very white 
and crisp, and not too 
pungent ; leaves medium- 
sized, rather erect, and light 
green. This Radish may 
be grown equally w^ell in a 
hot-bed and in the open 
air. The roots take about 
twenty-five days to swell. 
The colour forms a pleasing 
contrast to that of the other 
Intermediate varieties. It 

is not long since the variety ^^^.^^ Olive-shaped Radish, 

was firmly established in 

the olive-shape represented in the accompanying illustration. 
Formerly it had the defect of being long in the lower part, almost 
like a Long- Radish — a defect which, even yet, it sometimes has 
when the seed is not very pure. 

Forcing White Olive-shaped Radish.— Root long, olive- 
shaped, thick from the top to about two-thirds of its length, then 
tapering abruptly and terminating in a thin tap-root. Ready for 
pulling in from fifteen to eighteen days. It is a perfectly white 
Radish, but, pulled a little late, the neck takes a greenish tinge. 
The leaves are rather larger than those of the other Forcing 
Radishes. 

C. Long Radishes 

Long Scarlet, or Salmon-coloured, Radish. — Root extremely 
long and slender, often 5 or 6 in. in length and only about | in. 
in diameter, the upper part long, cone-shaped, narrowed towards the 
base of the leaves ; skin smooth, and a vinous red colour ; flesh 
almost transparent, and slightly tinged with pink or lilac. This 




6i8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



peculiar appearance of the flesh easily distinguishes the variety 
from all others which resemble it. This Radish is most usually 
grown in the open air in well-dug and well-manured soil. It is 
very seldom used for forcing, on account of the great length of the 
root, which would require too deep a layer of compost or leaf- 
mould. The roots take about a month to become fully formed. 
The flesh is tender, crisp, and fresh, but has not the pungent flavour 
of the Turnip Radishes or the Intermediate varieties. 




Long Scarlet, or Salmon-coloured, 

Radish natural size). Wood's Early Frame Radish. 



Wood's Early Frame Radish. — This variety comes between 
the Long and the Intermediate kinds. The roots, which are of a 
very long ovoid shape, are usually from 2f to 2-| in. long, and 
about ^ in. broad in the thickest part, which is not far below the 
base of the leaf-stalks. , The skin is a very lively carmine, becoming 
paler towards the lower end of the root. The flesh is very white, 
firm, juicy, very crisp, fresh, pleasant to the taste, and slightly 
pungent, like that of the Scarlet Intermediate Radish. The leaves 
are broad, rather short, compact, and rounded in shape, the stalks 
and veins tinged with coppery red. This Radish, which may also 
be very well grown in the open air, is almost always grown in 



SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES 619 




frames, especially in England. A layer of compost or leaf-mould 
4 in. deep over the hot-bed is deep enough to grow it in. Of 
all the early Radishes it 
yields the heaviest crop 
in the same space of 
time. The roots take 
from twenty to twenty- 
two days to become fully 
formed. 

Long Chartier 
Radish. — A handsome 
variety, with long straight 
roots, regularly tapering, 
of a bright rose colour on 
the upper part, the lower 
portion much paler or 
even white. Culture and 
uses exactly the same as 
those of the Wood's Early 
Frame Radish. 

Brightest Scarlet, or 
Cardinal, White -tipped 
Radish. — Quite distinct, 
characterised by the very 
bright colour of its root, which is very nearly the colour of the 
Deep Scarlet Turnip-shaped and Intermediate Radishes. A very 

handsome summer Radish, 
fit for use about twenty- 
five days after sowing ; 
suitable for the open 
ground and for being 
grown on spent manure. 
Flesh white, solid, and 
crisp. 

Long Purple Radish. 

— Root very long and 
slender, resembling that of 
the Long Scarlet Radish, 
with a long conical top, 
of an almost black-violet 
colour, becoming paler on 
the buried part ; flesh 
almost transparent, lilac ; 
leaves erect, rather long 
and broad, with brown stalks and veins. This variety is only 
grown in the open air. The roots take about a month to swell. 



Long Chartier Radish. 




Cardinal White-tipped Radish. 



620 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Long White Pearl Forcing Radish.— This variety comes very 
near the Long White Vienna Radish, described later, but is still 
earlier, and also rather shorter, with a thinner neck, and there is 
no green on the root. The root is a uniform milky white colour, 
almost transparent. The flesh is crisp, tender, and delicately 
pungent. It is a quick grower, doing best in mellow, rich, well- 
watered soil, with the aid of artificial heat during winter. 

Long White Vienna Radish.— Root white, very smooth and 
clean skinned, straight, spindle-shaped, from 4 to nearly 5 in. 
long, and from | to i in. broad at the top ; neck short, rounded, 
tinged with green, and very narrow at the insertion of leaf-stalks ; 

leaves rather large, broad, and light 
green. This is an early variety. The 
roots take four or five weeks to be- 
come fully formed ; the flesh is very 
tender, crisp, and juicy. Amongst 
the Japanese varieties of Radishes, of 
which we shall have occasion to speak 
at the end of this article, there is one 
which, in its appearance, bears some 
resemblance to the present variety. 
It has long slender roots, which at 
first are quite under the surface of 
the soil, but afterwards the top of 
the root rises a little overground and 
becomes tinged with green at the 
neck. The flesh of this variety is 
very white, rather strong in flavour, 
and of very good quality. 

Long White Naples Radish 
(Synonyms : White Transparent, or 
White Italian, Radish). — Root long 
Long White Vienna Radish. slender pure white, resembling 

the Long Scarlet Radish in shape, 
but rather thicker ; the upper part is conically tapered and tinged 
with pale green. This variety is almost always grown in the open 
air. The roots take about a month to become fully formed. A 
sub-variety of it is sometimes met with, in which the neck of the 
root is tinged with violet, but in every other respect it is exactly 
the same as the common variety. 

Long Normandy, or Marsh, Radish.— A very distinct long 
root, remarkable for its habit of protruding from the ground and 
becoming twisted like the Ox-horn Beet-root. The part of the 
root which remains underground is white, and the portion which 
is exposed to the light becomes violet. This Radish is usually 
sown in the open air, and the roots are pulled for use when they 




SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES 621 



are about 4 in. in diameter and 4 in. in length ; they are then very- 
tender. They attain this size and condition in less than a month 
from the time of sowing, after which they rapidly increase in size, 
and become twisted and hollow at the centre. 

White Crooked, or Mans Corkscrew, Radish. — An ex- 
ceedingly distinct variety. Root very long, cylindrical in the 
upper part, over i in. in diameter, and frequently more than i ft. 
in length. About one-fourth or one-fifth of the root shows above- 
ground, and this part is a 
dull white, more or less 
tinged with pale green. The 
underground portion is pure 
white, seldom straight, but 
most usually twisted like a 
corkscrew, in consequence of 
which the root can rarely be 
pulled up without breaking 
and leaving a part in the 
ground. The flesh is white, 
not very compact, and 
pungent. The leaves are 
very broad, and the neck of 
the root often badly formed. 
The roots of this Radish 
should be pulled about six 
weeks after sowing, as, if 
left in the ground longer, 
they become only fit for 
feeding cattle. 

The ^ rdeche Field Radish, 
which is grown in the south 
of France more for feeding 
cattle than for table use, 
has some resemblance to the 
present variety. Like it, it 
is a very long-rooted and Ardeche Field Radish, 

rather late Radish, and yields 

a heavier crop of leaves than of roots. It is therefore unsuited 
for garden culture, and the same may be said in regard to the 
improved form of this Field Radish, the roots of which are rather 
larger than those of the original variety. 




_ II. Summer and Autumn Radishes 

Radis d'ete ou d'automne. 

Under this name are grouped certain varieties, the roots of 
which are larger than those of the preceding section, and longer to 



622 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Large White Summer Turnip Radish 
Q natural size). 



Sowings may be made 



form, but grow nevertheless pretty rapidly, so that, by making 
^ successional sowings, a con- 

tinuous supply of fresh 
tender Radishes may be 
kept up all through the 
summer and autumn. 
These varieties do not 
usually keep long. They 
are sown in drills, from 
1 6 to 20 in, apart, and the 
seedlings are thinned out 
to a distance of from 6 
to 8 in. from one another, 
according to the size of 
the variety sown. They 
require no attention except 
occasional waterings. The 
roots of most of the varieties are fully form_ed in from six weeks 
to two months from the time of sowing, 
from ]\Iarch until August. 

Large White Summer Turnip 
Radish. — Root rounded or top-shaped, 
2 in. or more in diameter and length 
when w'ell grown ; skin white; flesh white, 
rather tender, and slightly pungent : 
leaves rather long, broad, half-erect, much 
more abundant and larger than those of 
the Small or Forcing Radishes, especially 
exceeding them in the size of the midribs 
or stalks, which form a rather broad 
neck at their junction with the root. 
The roots of this variety form pretty 
soon, and are generally fit for use in 
from thirty-five to forty days after 
sowing. In the L'nited States they grow 
under the name of the Early White 
Box Radish, or Philadelphia White Box 
Radish, a Radish very similar to it, but 
smaller, and possibly a link between the 
White Turnip-rooted Radish and the 
one just described above. 

Stuttgart Early Giant White 
Turnip Radish. — A larger variety and 
somewhat more flattened in shape than 




the preceding one. It 
shaped, and often 3 or 



is regularly top- 
4 in. in diameter, 



Stuttgart Early Giant WTiite 
Turnip Radish natural size). 



and over 3 



m. m 



depth. 



SUMMER AND AUTUMN RADISHES 623 



Skin and flesh white ; leaves somewhat broader and stiffer than 
those of the preceding variety, but not so erect. The roots may 
be pulled for use about six weeks after sowing, although they will 
continue to increase in size for some time longer without deteriorating 
in quality. When they 
have attained their full 
size, they are too large 
to be served up entire, 
and are cut into slices 
like the winter Radishes. 

Yellow Summer 
Turnip Radish. — Root 
almost spherical or top- 
shaped, sometimes longer 
than broad, fit for use when 
about if in. in diameter, 
but often hollow when it 
exceeds that size ; skin 
dark or grayish yellow, 
veined lengthways with small white lines produced by fine longi- 
tudinal cracks ; flesh white, compact, and very pungent ; leaves 
broad and long. This Radish grows rather rapidly, the roots being 
fit for use in about five weeks after sowing. With the exception 
of the Black Spanish Radish, no other variety, perhaps, has so 
strong a flavour. The flavour of the flesh is not, however, always 
invariable in any variety of Radish, and the conditions of soil 
and climate have a very great influence in 
increasing or diminishing its pungency. 

Golden-yellow Summer Turnip Radish. 
— An earlier variety, better shaped than the 
preceding. Is usually classed among the 
forcing or monthly varieties, but though 
early it is seldom fit for use within a month, 
and it is undoubtedly a summer Radish. 
The root is a fine yellow, spherical or 
slightly top-shaped, with few and small- 
sized leaves. 

Early Golden-yellow Oval Summer 
Radish. — A quick-growing kind, distin- 
^ ,j ,10 guished for bein^ a fine yellow colour, and 

Golden-yellow Summer 111 t ^1 

Turnip Radish. usually oval-shaped. In quality the same 

as the last described sorts. 
Gray Summer Turnip Radish. — Root almost spherical or top- 
shaped. Except in colour it is very like the Yellow Summer 
Turnip Radish, being of the same size, equally early, and having 
the skin cracked in the same way. 





624 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Small Black Summer Turnip Radish.— A variety which 
comes pretty near the preceding one, but more deeply coloured, 
and from eight to ten days later. The skin is black, cracked and 

furrowed with white 
lines. The flesh is very 
white and firm, and 
pungent. 

White Strasburg, 
or White Hospital, 
Summer Radish.— An 
early and, at the same 
time, very productive 
variety. Root pointed, 
from 4 to nearly 5 in. 
long, and 2 in. or less 
in diameter; skin white; 
flesh white, rather tender, 
and not too pungent ; 
leaves large, broad, half- 
erect, deeply lobed, and 
ol a light green. The roots may be pulled about six weeks after 
sowing, at which time they are two-thirds of their full size. 
They will continue to increase in size for a month or more 
without spoiling. 

Black Long Summer Radish. — Evidently derived from the 
Black Long Winter Radish, and therefore properly a winter Radish ; 




White Strasburg Radish natural size). Black Long Summer Radish. 



but we class it among the summer kinds not only because of its 
being readily grown in summer, but also because it forms a link 
between the two groups. Its root is smoother, more cylindrical 




Early Golden-yellow Oval Radish. 



SUMMER AND AUTUMN RADISHES 625 



and less pointed than that of the Long Black Spanish Radish, its 
leaves fewer, and its flavour milder and less pungent. It is a 
favourite of the Paris market-gardeners, because it enables them 
to bring out black Radishes in July, when formerly there were 
none before October, plants from early sowings being liable 
to run to seed. Lovers of pungent Radishes will prefer the old 
Black Spanish Radish for autumn and winter use. 

III. Winter Radishes 

French, Radis d'hiver. German, Winter-Rettig. Flemish and Dutch, Rammenas. 

Spanish, Rabano. 

The name of Winter Radishes is applied to those kinds which 
have such compact and firm-fleshed roots that they will keep 
through a great part of the winter without sprouting or becoming 
hollow. They are usually large and take several months in 
attaining their full growth. The seed is sown in May or June (that 
of some varieties up to the beginning of August), usually in drills 




Black Spanish Winter Turnip Radish Large Purple Winter Radish 

(i natural size). (i natural size). 



from 16 to 20 in. apart. The roots are pulled in November, and 
will keep to a more or less advanced part of the winter, simply 
stored in a dry cellar or a vegetable house. 

Black Spanish Winter Turnip Radish. — Root rounded, often 
top-shaped, 3 or 4 in. in diameter, and about 3 in. long ; skin 
black, cracked in longitudinal lines ; flesh white, very compact, and 
firm", leaves rather broad, very deeply cut into numerous lobes. 
This is not a very late kind for a Winter Radish : the seed may be 



40 



626 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



sown up to the end of July. The roots keep well, and are the 
strongest in flavour of all varieties of Turnip Radish. 

Large Purple Winter Radish. — Under the name of Large 
Purple Winter Radish, a sub-variety of the Black Spanish Winter 
Turnip Radish is grown. It is much the same in shape, size, and 
earliness, but is distinguished for its purple skin. 




Long Black Spanish Winter Radish Laon Long Gray Winter Radish 

natural size}. (i natural size). 



Long Black Spanish Winter Radish.— Root cylindrical, very 
regular, from about 7 to lo in. long, and between 2 and 3 in. in 
diameter ; skin very black, and somewhat wrinkled : flesh white, 
firm, and compact ; leaves stout, broad, and long. Two forms of 
this variety are in cultivation — one with the root rounded and 
shortened off at the lower extremity ; the other with the root 
tapering to a long point. The second is somewhat later, and the 
flesh is very pungent. The first is much more clean skinned, and 
often quite mild in flavour. 



WINTER RADISHES 



627 



The Laon Long Gray Winter Radish and the Gournay Large 
Purple White Radish are very closely related to the Long Black 
Spanish Winter Radish, which they resemble in the size and shape, 
being only a little thicker ; they differ from it in their colour, the 
Laon variety being iron gray, and the Gournay purple. Both are 
grown and used in the same way as the Black Spanish Winter 
Radish. 

Large White Spanish Winter Radish.— Root spindle-shaped, 
nearly cylindrical in the upper two-thirds of its length, and 




Gournay Large Purple Winter Radish Large White Spanish Winter Radish 
(i natural size). (|- natural size). 

narrowed to a point in the lower part, 6 or 7 in. long, and nearly 
3 in. in diameter ; neck rounded ; skin white ; flesh white, compact, 
and very strong in flavour ; leaves very broad. This is a good 
Winter Radish, and keeps well. It grows so quickly, however, that 
it may be cultivated as a Summer or Autumn Radish, the seed 
being sown in June. 

Large White Russian Winter Radish. — Root long, ovoid 
in shape, often from 12 to 14 in. long, and 5 or 6 in. in diameter ; 
skin rather wrinkled, and grayish white ; flesh white, not very 



628 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



compact, and rather strong in flavour ; leaves numerous, rather 
broad, ver\' much divided, and farming ver>' dense rosettes spread- 
ing on the ground. This is a very productive Radish, but for 
table use the roots should be pulled before they are fully grown. 
In order to keep them v/ell in winter, the seed should be sown in 
the end cf Tune or in July. If sown earlier, the roots often become 
hollov,-, and are then only fit for feeding cattle, for which purpose 
the large Vv'inter Radishes,, and especially the present variety, 




Large V;h::e Russian Winter Radish, nattira! si2e>. 

quantity of cattle-feeding material than Turnips, and, fr:m the 
large size of the seed, young Radish-plants are frcm tneir earliest 
growth more vigorous than young Turnip-plants, and sufier far less 
from the attacks of insects. 

Chinese Scarlet Winter Radish. — A very distinct variety. 
Root long,, thicker at the lovrer extremity than at the neck, blunt 
at both ends, and very like the Jersey Turnip in shape ; skin very 
bright red. m.arked v/ith somie sm.all sem/lcircular v,-h:te lines haif- 
v,*ay round the root ; nesh white, very firm and c:ntpa:t, pungent 
and somietimes slightly bitter ; leaves rather broad, divided, and 



WINTER RADISHES 



629 



spreading ; leaf-stalks bright pink. The roots are of medium size, 
usually 4 or 5 in. long, about 2 in. in diameter at the thickest part 
of the lower extremity, and about if in. below the neck. This 
variety is chiefly grown for autumn and winter use. It may be 
sown up to August, and much thicker than the other Winter 
Radishes. There is a pure white sub-variety of this Radish, and 
also a violet-coloured one, both of which only differ in colour from 
the present variety. If we had to admit that any variety of culti- 
vated Radishes is derived from the Wild Radish {Raphanus 
Raphanistruui), the present variety is the one of all others to which 
we should be disposed to assign that origin ; its leaves, root, and 
other characteristics pre- 
senting an appearance en- 
tirely distinct from any 
other cultivated kind. 

Deep Scarlet Pamir 
Turnip Radish. — Resem- 
bles in colour the Scarlet 
Chinese Radish, but differs 
in shape, being almost 
spherical. The flesh is 
white, firm, and pungent ; 
the skin bright scarlet. It 
keeps quite well up to 
mid-winter without be- 
coming pithy, or starting 
into vegetation. 

Californian, or Mam- 
moth White, Winter 
Radish. — This Radish is 
even more like the Jersey 
Turnip than the Chinese Scarlet Winter Radish, being similar in 
shape and in colour. The root is pure white, long, cylindrical, 
and thickest at the lower end ; it is from 6 to 8 in. long, about 
2\ in. in diameter at the thickest part, and about 2 in. for the 
remainder of its length, and projecting between i and 2- in. above 
the ground. The leaves are large, broad, and a very light green. 
It is productive, and a good autumn or winter radish. The roots 
take two or three months to form ; the flesh is mild, and not 
pungent. 

The Japanese cultivate a great many kinds of Long White 
Radishes for table use. Some of these are said to produce roots 
of the almost fabulous weight of from 33 to 44 lb. each. When 
grown in Europe, most of these Japanese Radishes run to seed 
very rapidly, and are not of much value. An exception, however, 
is the variety they call Ninengo datkon, which is remarkable both 




Deep Scarlet Pamir Turnip Radish, 



630 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



for the length and symmetry of its root and for its slowness in 
running to seed. The root is white, cylindrical, blunt, sometimes 
thick at the lower end, and often 16 to 20 in. long, and 3 to 4 in. in 
diameter. The leaves are large, very long, divided into a very 
great number of almost triangular lobes, and very dark green ; 
they spread upon the ground, forming a broad flat rosette. To be 
grown to perfection it should he sown in April, and the soil very 
deeply dug and plentifully manured. 



Other Varieties 

White Chinese^ or Celestial^ Radish. — Root white, cylindrical, very 
large, flesh very white and rather mild flavoured. 

Radis Blanc Demi-long de la Meurthe et de la Meuse. — A white 
Summer Radish, almost always pear- or top-shaped, but of unequal 
length. It grows to a pretty large size, but is usually pulled for 
use when half-grown, being then about the size of a hen's egg. 
The flesh is white, firm, and rather pungent. 

R. Friiher Zwei-Monat. — A late variety of the White Olive- 
shaped Radish, it is intermediate between the Summer Radishes 
and the Small or Forcing Radishes. 

R. Gris d'Ete Oblong. — A pear-shaped or ovoid form of the 
Gray Summer Turnip Radish, but not so regular in shape and 
not superior to it in any way. The flesh is somewhat more 
pungent. 

R. Gros d'Hiver de Ham (R. Gros Gris d'Ao-tif). — A true Winter 
Radish. Root long, cylindrical, ending in a blunt point, and about 
the size of the Long Black Winter Radish, but grayish white. It 
resembles the Laon Gray Winter Radish. It is called Gris d'AoUt 
because the roots are generally first pulled in August, but it is more 
of an Autumn or Winter Radish. 

R. de Mahon. — An exceedingly distinct kind, peculiar to the 
Balearic Islands and some districts in the South of France. It is 
a Long Red Radish, the root being often angular (especially when 
it grows to a large size), and projecting from the ground for one- 
half or two-thirds of its length, like the Mangel-Wurzel. Its 
growth is remarkably rapid. The leaves are broad and stout. The 
flesh is pinkish white, very juicy, firm, and solid while young. The 
root does not grow hollow until it has attained the size of a small 
Beet-root. 

R. Rond Rouge Fonce. — This is a particular variety of small 
Turnip Radish, which has a very dark, almost violet-coloured skin. 
It is rather in repute in the southern provinces of France, where it 
is said to resist the heat better than the Common Scarlet Turnip 
Radish. 



RAT-TAILED RADISH 



631 



RAT-TAILED RADISH 

Raphanus caudatus, L. 

Radis serpent. 

Native of South Asia. — Annual. — The edible part of this Radish 
is not the root, but the silique or seed-vessel, which is gathered 
before it is fully grown. This, instead of being short and thick, as 
in other Radishes, is often twisted, scarcely as thick as a lead-pencil, 
and often 8 to 10 in. long. It is frequently violet-coloured, and 
somewhat pungent, like that of the Small or Forcing Radishes. 

Culture. — This plant is extremely easy to grow. The seed 
is sown in May, where the plants are to stand, in a warm position 
if possible, and in about three months the plants commence to 
flower and yield pods or seed-vessels. 

Uses. — The fresh pods are eaten raw, or they may be pickled 
in vinegar. 

In warm countries another kind of Radish, named the Madras 
Radish, is sometimes grown for its pods, which are used like those of 
the Rat-tailed Radish. They are almost the same shape as the pods 
of the common kinds of Radish, but far more fleshy and tender. 

RAMPION 

Campanula Rapunculus, L. Campanulacece. 

French, Raiponce. German, Rapunzel-Riibe. Fle7nish and Dutch, Rapunsel. Italian, 
Raperonzolo. Spanish, Reponche. Portuguese, Rapunculo. 

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — Root white, spindle-shaped, and 
nearly \ in. in diameter for 2 in. or more of its length ; flesh white, 
very firm, but crisp ; leaves sessile, 
rather numerous, long oval-spathu- 
late, narrowed at the base, something 
like those of the Common Corn- 
salad, but more slender and a 
lighter green ; flower-stems slender, 
hard, somewhat angular, sometimes 
branching, and bearing a few linear 
leaves ; flowers lilac, bell-shaped, 
with five sharp-pointed divisions, 
and borne in long spikes ; seed- 
vessels small, top-shaped, sur- 
mounted by the five teeth of the 
calyx ; seeds oblong, flattened, 
light brown, and exceedingly 
small. They are the smallest of 
all kitchen-garden seeds. Their 
germinating power lasts for five 

years. Rampion natural size). 




632 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Culture. — The seed is sown in the open ground early in Ma.y, 
either broadcast or in drills from 8 to lO in. apart. As it is 
extremely small, it is a good plan to mix it with a little fine soil 
or sand, in order to avoid sowing too thick. The first waterings 
should be given carefully, so as not to wash away the seed, which 
should not be deeply buried, but merely pressed firmly into the 
soil. If the seedlings come up too thick, they should be thinned 
out, and they should be frequently watered in hot weather. As 
plants sown early in the season are apt to run to seed, it is advisable 
to make a fresh sowing in June, using the same precautions. The 
roots may commence to be gathered for use in October or Novemberv 
and they will continue to yield a supply through the winter ; and 
in order that this may not be interrupted by severe frosty weather, 
a sufficient quantity of the roots should be taken up beforehand 
and stored in sand in a cellar or vegetable-house. 

Uses. — The roots and leaves are eaten raw as salad. 



RHUBARB 

Rheum, L. PolygonacecB. 

French^ Rhubarbe. German, Rhabarber. Flemish and Dutch, Rabarber. Danish ^ 
Rhabarber. Italian, Rabarbaro. Spanish and Portuguese, Ruibarbo. 

The cultivated varieties of Rhubarb are generally referred 

by botanists to Rheum 
hybridum. Ait, a native of 
Mongolia. These varieties, 
however, are far from 
exhibiting any constant 
characteristics, and it is 
not impossible that some 
of them may have sprung,, 
either directly or as the 
result of crossing, from the 
Rheum undulatum of North 
America, or even from other 
species. 

The plant, as it is grown 
in gardens, is remarkable 
for its very large heart- 
shaped radical leaves, which 
measure over 2\ ft. in length 
and 2 ft. or more in breadth, 
and are borne on stalks 
which are rounded under- 




Rhubarb {Rheum hybridum) (t^V natural size). 



neath and flat or channelled on the upper surface, about 2 in. 
in diameter, and from i ft. to i6 in. in length — dimensions which 



RHUBARB 



633 



by special culture may be increased to nearly double the size. 
The flowering stems are large, cylindrical, hollow, and furrowed, 
and bear small, short, erect branches, covered with small greenish 
flowers, which are succeeded by triangular seeds with a membranous 
wing on each of the angles. The germinating power of the seeds 
lasts for three years. 

Culture. — Rhubarb may be propagated from seed ; but as, in 
this case, the plants are liable to exhibit much diversity in their 
habit of growth, the more common 
practice is to divide the root-stock 
of the plants which produce the 
thickest and longest stalks. The 
roots so divided are planted at the 
end of winter in good, moist, deep, 
very mellow, and well-manured soil, 
and about a yard apart in every 
direction. The stalks are not pulled 
for use until the spring of the year 
following that in which the roots 
were planted, and the same plants 
will continue to yield for four years 
at least, and sometimes for ten years 
or longer without the plantation 
requiring to be renewed. The only 
attention necessary is to keep the 
ground free from weeds, and to 
apply a good dressing of manure 
every two or three years. In order to increase the length of 
the stalks, a large bottomless flower-pot, a chimney-pot, or a 
small barrel with the ends knocked out, is sometimes placed over 
each plant in spring when the leaves are starting into growth. 
Striving to reach the light, the leaves naturally grow longer and 
the stalks at the same time become longer and more tender. The 
flowering-stems, which would otherwise exhaust the plants, should 
be cut off as they make their appearance. To force Rhubarb, the 
roots should be taken up with a ball and planted in a hot-house or 
a hot-bed. 




Stalks (f natural size). 



The cultivation of this plant, as 
yet unpractised on the Continent, 
as far as we know, is of much im- 
portance in Great Britain and North 
America. Rhubarb will grow in 
many kinds of soil ; but the richer 
and deeper it is, the finer will be 
the quality and size. The situation 
should also be moderately dry, or 



made so by drainage. It will grow 
in clay, peat, or the bog-earth of 
the Fens. We have seen it succeed 
remarkably well in mud cleaned out 
from a river. When the leaves get 
fairly into growth, they need plenty 
of food to keep them growing. The 
larger the leaves of one season the 
stronger will be the crown for 



^34 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



the next ; hence the importance 
of rich feeding all through the 
growing season. It is a good plan, 
in small gardens, to plant Rhubarb 
near the depot for house sewage, so 
that it may be nourished with this 
as well as solid manure; 4 ft., at 
least, of a rich root-run should be 
provided for it. For new planta- 
tions the ground should be thor- 
oughly trenched and manured. Its 
productive force should be kept up 
afterwards by an annual dressing, 
from 2 to 3 in. in thickness. 

No plant is more easily increased 
and multiplied than Rhubarb ; plants 
two or more years old seed freely if 
permitted to do so. Unless seed be 
required, however, they should not 
be allowed to do so, as seed-bearing 
weakens the crowns. The seeds 
ripen about the end of September, 
and may be sown at once in shallow 
drills a yard apart, or they may be 
sown in February. As soon as 
they are well up, thin the plants to 
18 in. or 2 ft. asunder, according to 
the size of the kind and the inten- 
tion of the cultivator. If intended 
to remain where they are, a yard 
apart is close enough — indeed, too 
close for some varieties. Some, 
however, prefer rows 2 ft. apart, 
and thinning the plants to i ft. only 
the first season : then in the October 
or February following fresh ground 
is prepared, and the Victoria trans- 
planted at distances of from 4 to 
6 ft. by 4 ft., and the Defiance 3 ft. 
by 18 in. or 2 ft. The best plan is 
to sow Rhubarb where it is to remain, 
as it forms immense roots that are 
easily broken, — and to break it is to 
injure it more or less. Nevertheless, 
a very common mode of propagating 
Rhubarb is by root division. The 
huge stool or fleshy root is sliced into 
as many portions as there are crowns 
to it with a sharp knife or spade, 
and each slice forms a new plant. 



Gathering Rhubarb, and when 
to cease gathering, are matters 
which require more attention than 
they generally receive. In gather- 
ing, the proper method is to give 
the leaf-stalk a twist outward, and 
a sudden jerk down at the same 
moment. From want of attention 
to this, many tear off the crown 
with the base of the leaf-stalk. 
Again, too many leaves should 
not be gathered at once. If a 
plant have only a dozen leaves, 
do not gather more than six of 
them, and let these be the lowest. 
Some prefer Rhubarb when the 
leaves are freshly unrolled, others 
when they are half-grown, and 
others when they are fully grown. 
Of course there is great waste if 
the stalks be gathered before they 
have reached their full length. 
Rhubarb is at its best just when the 
leaf has reached full size. It can 
hardly be too old for preserving, 
and is seldom gathered till the end 
of August for that purpose. As 
to the time of ceasing to gather 
Rhubarb, it should certainly be not 
later than August if the gathering is 
to be annual : this leaves but little 
time for the last leaves to ripen 
good crowns for the next year's 
crop. All the leaves removed have 
doubtless been a loss to the plant : 
they did much to weaken and 
nothing to strengthen it ; it is only 
the leaves left on that recoup it for 
its loss in those taken off. Hence 
the importance of rich food to 
replenish the plant, and time for 
the maturation of the later growth ; 
and it need hardly be said that no 
weed must be permitted to grow at 
the expense of the Rhubarb-plants. 

There are various ways of forcing 
this useful plant, which may briefly 
be divided into two distinct 
methods. No. i consisting of lifting 
the roots and placing them in arti- 



! 



RHUBARB 



635 



ficially heated structures ; or No. 2, 
by covering the crowns where they 
are grown with pots or boxes, and 
applying fermenting material, com- 
posed of stable litter, leaves, etc., 
or, in fact, anything that will 
generate warmth enough to excite 
growth. There is much to be said 
in favour of both systems, for they 
are both good under certain con- 
ditions, and gardeners in private 
gardens, as a rule, find lifting the 
roots and placing them in heat the 
best plan for the earliest crops 
during December and January ; for 
where heated glass structures are in 
use, a supply of Rhubarb may be 
procured without any additional 
outlay, or even occupying any space 
useful for any other purpose, as 
under stages, or in the boiler-shed, 
or, in fact, any position near the 
hot pipes. The roots may be placed 
on the floor, or in pots or boxes, 
and covered with soil, keeping it 
moist, and the crowns may be 
covered with hay, fern fronds, or 
litter, to blanch it. The only objec- 
tion to this plan is that it weakens 
the crowns more than by forcing 
them in the ground, as the roots 
get very much mutilated in removal, 
so that if the quantity of Rhubarb 
roots is limited, it is preferable to 
adopt the plan of forcing the roots 
where they are grown. Procure 
the requisite number of pots with 
movable covers, and place them 
over the crowns ; then cover them 
over with fresh stable litter, or a 
coating of leaves and litter mixed 
together. The leaves of deciduous 
trees are most useful for many pur- 
poses, as they can be used for 
forwarding crops of Rhubarb and 
then placed in pits or frames 
for supplying bottom heat for 
Cucumbers and other early crops. 
To have Rhubarb fit for use at 
Christmas, cover the crowns in the 



middle of November, and as soon 
as the first batch gets fairly started 
into growth, cover a few more pots 
in succession, until it comes on 
naturally in March, when any large 
tubs or boxes turned over the 
crowns to shelter from cold winds 
will forward the growth at least a 
fortnight before the crowns left un- 
covered. Rhubarb, unlike many 
other crops, is better when forced 
than from the open air, being more 
tender and succulent. 

Market-Garden Culture. — 
Rhubarb forcing in market-gardens 
is very simple, and is done in hot- 
beds covered with hoops and mats. 
In making young plantations, the 
sets are sometimes planted about 
18 in. apart each way: and, at 
forcing time, every other row, and 
the alternate plants in the row left, 
are lifted for forcing ; old planta- 
tions, too, are cleared entirely for 
forcing. The leaves will be decayed 
enough to be raked off by the 
middle of October, by which time 
the first portion is usually lifted for 
forcing. For this purpose trenches 
are cast out, about 4 ft. wide and 
2 ft. deep, and filled with fermenting 
manure. Over this a thin layer of 
common soil is placed, and in it the 
crowns, after being trimmed of some 
of their rougher roots, are planted. 
Over the crowns some loose litter 
is strewed, and then the beds are 
hooped over and covered with mats, 
over which another layer of straw 
or litter is placed during winter. 
In the outside covering, apertures 
are made at gathering time, and 
closed again when done. In 
February, if the weather be mild, 
the hoops and mats are commonly 
dispensed with. In some gardens 
excellent Rhubarb is produced in 
pits, with some heating material 
underneath, and some loose straw 
merely shaken loosely over the 



636 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



roots. Some force Rhubarb in fruit- 
houses ; the roots are packed closely 
together on the floors, a little leaf- 
mould or other soil is cast over 
them, and they are afterwards 
covered with mats, which remain 
on them until the stalks are fit to 
gather. Rhubarb forced in this way 
is not so good in colour as that pro- 
duced in darker places, and which 
we see in the markets early in the 
season ; but it is greatly superior to 
it in flavour. 

Whole fields in Surrey are de- 
voted to Rhubarb culture, but the 
bulk of it from London market- 
gardens is grown under fruit-trees — 
positions in which it grows well. 
In spring, when the produce is most 
wanted, the trees are leafless, and 
therefore they do not shade it much, 
but afford slight protection, and the 



produce comes naturally fit for use 
about a week sooner than from the 
open field. In making permanent 
plantations, divisions of the old 
stools are used, and they are planted 
in rows 2^ or 3 ft. apart, and from 
2 to 2 J ft. asunder in the rows. 
No leaves are cut away from them 
the first year, but the space between 
the lines is planted with Lettuces 
or Coleworts. During the second 
season many stalks are not cut, 
but in the third year a fair crop is 
gathered. As soon as time can be 
spared in winter, and before the 
leaves begin to grow, the ground 
between the rows is dug over 
roughly, and a large forkful of 
rank litter placed over each crown. 
Under the litter the stalks come up 
clean, tender, and crisp — very much 
more so than if none were used. 



Uses. — The fleshy stalks are used for making tarts, pies, and 
preserves, especially in England and America. 

The following are the principal varieties which are considered 
to be derived from Rheum hybridmn : 

Early Red Tobolsk Rhubarb. — A very early spring variety, 
and the best for forcing. Leaves rather small, heart-shaped, with 
short, blunt point, broadly waved at the edges, very glossy, and 
clear green. Stalks short in length, about tw^o-thirds of the blade, 
smooth, and all red. Flowers abundantly, the flower-stalks green, 
thin, with erect branches. 

Hybrid Florentin. — A cross between Rheum officinale and 
Rheum Colinianuvi^ remarkable for the great size of its leaves, 
often 3 ft. in length, as also its floral stalks, usually from 6 to 9 ft. 
high, and covered during summer with innumerable dark red 
flowers. Recommendable for its hardiness and the thickness of 
its leaf-stalks, which are round and without grooves, tinged red 
at the base, and blotched red for the rest. Not only a valuable 
vegetable, but also a highly ornamental plant. 

Hav^ke's Champagne. — This has now become the favourite 
sort in the London market-gardens. Comes early into use. Stalks 
of a deep crimson colour, large, and of fine quality ; leaves deep 
green, slightly pubescent, the younger ones having an almost heavy 
appearance. 

Mitchell's Royal Albert {Early Red).— A very early variety, 
with thick long stalks of excellent flavour, equal in length (when 



RHUBARB 



637 



not drawn) to three-fourths of the length of the blade of the leaf, 
plentifully spotted with red over their entire surface, and more 
angular than channelled. Leaves heart-shaped, broad, with blister- 
like swellings on the upper surface, but not much crumpled ; blade 
of the leaf light green and smooth. This variety flowers abundantly, 
and has a very thick, smooth, and very branching flower-stem, of a 
uniform green colour. 

Myatt's Linnaeus. — A second-early sort, resembling Royal 
Albert, but a much larger and stronger grower. Stalks deep 
green, rounded, good in quality. 

Myatt's Victoria. — A later kind than Royal Albert. 
Stalks red, very thick, considerably longer than the blade of the 
leaf, channelled underneath, and of good quality ; leaves broader 
than long, heart-shaped or rounded, pointless, very wavy at the 
edges, very much crumpled, and a rather dark and glaucous green. 
This variety flowers very scantily. 

Stott's Monarch. — A giant variety, greatly recommended by 
some for its fine quality, and excellent for preserving. Leaves 
heart-shaped, over 3 ft. long, and nearly the same in breadth, with 
a dark green, even-surfaced blade; stalks exceedingly thick, scarcely 
half the length of the blade, but 3 or 4 in. broad, and of a somewhat 
bronzy green colour. Flowers very seldom.* 

The Rheum undulatmn of North America is sometimes culti- 
vated as a vegetable. This is a distinct and early species, and not 
so acid as other kinds. The leaves are light green colour, very 
wavy at the edges, rather long, heart shape, but almost blunt ; 
stalks slender, about as long as the blade of the leaf, smooth, and 
green, except at the base, which is tinged with red ; flower-stems 
very numerous, a uniform pale green, and with erect branches. 

The other cultivated kinds of Rhubarb are grown for ornament 
or for medicinal purposes, but are not suited for the kitchen- 
garden. A description of them will be found in " Les Fleurs 
de Pleine Terre." The finest of them are Rheum officinale, H. Bn. ; 
Rheum Emodi, Wall. ; and Rheum palmatum, L., with its variety, 
Rheum p. Tanghuticum. 

ROCKET-SALAD 

Eruca sativa, Lank. ; Brassica Eruca, L. Cruciferce. 

French^ Roquette. German, Rauke. Flemish, Krapkool. Dutch, Rakette kruid. 
Italian, Ricola, Ruchetta. Spanish, Jaramago. Portuguese, Pinchao. 

Native of South Europe. — Annual. — A low-growing plant, with 
the radical leaves thick, oblong, and divided like the leaves of 
Radishes or Turnips into several segments, of which the terminal 
one is oval and much larger than the others. Stem erect, smooth, 
* Daw's Champion, see p. 773. 



638 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



and branching ; flowers rather large, white, or yellow, veined with 
violet ; seed-vessels cylindrical, with three not very prominent ribs 

on each side ; seeds brown, 
smooth, and somewhat flat- 
tened. Their germinating 
power lasts for four years. 

Culture.— The seed is 
sown in the open ground from 
April to the end of summer, 
and in about six weeks or 
two months the leaves may 
commence to be cut. In spring 
or autumn fresh leaves are 
abundantly produced after 
cutting. In summer the plants 
run to seed rapidly. Frequent 
waterings are useful in keeping 
the leaves tender, and in 
Rocket-salad (i natural size). modifying the flavour, which 

is very strong and somewhat 
like that of the Scurvy-grass. The young leaves are eaten as 
salad. 

TURKISH ROCKET 

Bunias orientalis^ L. Cruciferce, 

Native of Western Asia, but naturalised in France. — Perennial. — 
A hardy and very long-lived plant, with numerous, entire, long leaves, 
in shape something like those of the Horse-radish. Stem about 3 ft. 
high, very much branched ; flowers yellow, and like those of the 
Mustard-plant; seed-vessels hard, very short, like those of the Chick- 
pea, but smaller. Their germinating power lasts for three years. 

Culture. — This plant is as easily grown as the Chicory. The 
seed is sown in drills in autumn or spring, and the plants will 
continue vigorous and productive for several years. 

Uses. — The young and tender leaves and shoots are eaten 
either boiled or as salad. This plant has been highly spoken of as 
a kitchen-garden plant. It commences to grow very early in spring, 
when other fresh green vegetables are scarce, resisting both cold 
weather and drought well. 

ROSEMARY 

Rosmarinus officinalis, L. LabiatcB 

French, Romarin. German, Rosmarin. Fleinish and Dutch, Rozemarijn. Danish, 
Rosmarin. Italian, Rosmarino. Spanish, Romero. Portuguese, Alecrim. 

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — An under-shrub, common 
on the calcareous hills of the south of France and in the vicinity of 




ROSEMARY 



639 



the sea-coast. Stem branching, woody, with erect branches bear- 
ing an abundance of linear-obtuse leaves, of a lively green colour 
on the upper surface and 
silvery gray underneath ; 
flowers axillary, forming 
long leafy clusters on the 
upper part of the stems, 
labiate, and of a gray- 
blue ; seeds light brown, 
oval, with a large white 
hilum at one end. Their 
germinating power lasts 
for four years. 

Culture. — The 
Rosemary does not re- 
quire any culture. Tufts 
of it planted in good, 
well-drained soil, and, if 
possible, at the foot of a 
south wall, or on a slope 
with a southern aspect, will 




Rosemary (-j^g- natural size ; detached branch, 
5 natural size ; detached flower, natural size). 



continue productive for many years without requiring any attention. 
Uses. — The leaves are used for seasoning. 



RUE 

Ruta graveolens^ L. RutacecB. 

French, Rue. German, Raute. Dutch, Wijnniit. Spanish, Ruda. 

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — A plant growing from 
16 in. to 2 ft. high and forming a small round bush. Stem woody, 
very much branched ; leaves all stalked, twice or thrice divided, 
and winged ; divisions almost triangular, or oval-obtuse ; flowers 
large, with four yellow petals of a green colour, produced in short, 
corymbose, terminal clusters ; seed-vessels rounded, four or five 
lobed ; seeds black, crescent-shaped or kidney-shaped. Their ger- 
minating power lasts for two years. 

Culture. — This plant is easily propagated in spring from seed, 
or from divisions of the tufts, which, as soon as they are well rooted, 
are planted out 20 in. apart in every direction in good and well- 
drained, rather than moist, soil, where they may live for many years 
without requiring any care. Cut the plants short every two or three 
years in order to promote the growth of young stems. 

Uses. — The leaves, which have an exceedingly strong odour, 
very disagreeable to most people, are sometimes used for seasoning. 
They are bitter and very pungent. In old cookery books Rue is 
frequently mentioned amongst the seasonings in common use. 



640 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — A plant forming tufts of 
stiff, pointed, almost triangular, leaves, like those of most plants of 



They may be easily kept all through the winter, if stored in a dry 
place, sheltered from frost, and in drying become sweeter and more 
agreeable to the taste than when eaten freshly gathered. The 
tubers are eaten raw or parched. 



French^ Safran. German^ Safranpflanze. Italian^ Zafferano. Spanish^ Azafran. 

Native of the East. — Perennial. — A bulbous plant, with long, 
narrow leaves, like those of a Grass, glistening and dark green, 
with a white line running lengthways down the middle. Flowers 
violet, very long ovoid, and not much opened at the mouth ; pistils 
extremely large, divided into numerous strips, and of a handsome 
orange or saffron colour. Their weight causes them to droop over 
the side of the flower, which produces a rather peculiar effect. The 
bulbs or corms are covered with brown, wrinkled coats. 

Culture. — The Saffron-plant is not propagated from seed, 
although it occasionally bears some, but is always multiplied by 
means of the bulbs or corms. These are planted from June to 
August, in good, free, light soil, containing, if possible, a large 




the Cyperacece family. Roots 
brown, very numerous, 
tangled, and intermixed 
with underground shoots, 
which are swollen into a 
kind of small, scaly, brown 
tubers, with white, floury, 
sweet flesh. 



Rush-nut, or Chufa (^V natural size ; 
detached nut, natural size). 



Culture. — The plant 
is propagated in April or 
May, either from the tubers, 
or from divisions of the tufts. 
The divisions so planted 
increase in size, and spread 
very much during the 
summer, and the tubers or 
" nuts " are gathered in 
October or November. 



SAFFRON-PLANT 

Crocus sativusy L. Iridacece. 



SAFFRON-PLANT 



641 



proportion of calcareous matter, and in a position well exposed 
to air and sunshine. The flowers bloom in September ; they are 
gathered as soon as they open, and the 
pistils are picked off with the hand. 
The cultivation and preparation of 
Saffron require an enormous amount of 
manual labour, and, consequently, the 
plant is very little grown for economic 
purposes in gardens. 

Uses. — The pistils, when dried, are 
used for flavouring and colouring certain 
dishes. Saffron, being expensive in pro- 
portion to its purity, is often adulterated 
with Turmeric, which is obtained by 
pulverising old roots of Curcuma longa, 
an East Indian plant of the Zifigiberacece 
or Ginger family, and is of a deep yellow colour, with a slightly 
peppery and aromatic flavour. 




Saffron-plant (5 natural size). 




SAGE 

Salvia officinalis, L. Labiatce. 

French, Sauge officinale. German, Edel-Salbei. Flemish and Dutch, Salie. 
Italian and Spanish, Salvia. Portuguese, Molho. 

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — A plant with an almost 

woody stem, at least at 
the base, and forming 
broad tufts seldom more 
than 14 to 16 in. high. 
Leaves very pale green, 
oval, toothed, very finely 
reticulated, and wrinkled ; 
lower leaves narrowed 
into a stalk, upper or 
stem-leaves narrow and 
long pointed ; flowers in 
heads of three or four, in 
terminal clusters, usually 
bluish lilac, sometimes 
white or pink ; seeds 
nearly spherical, and of 
a blackish brown colour. 
Their germinating power 
lasts for three years. 

Culture —The 
Sage-plant is as easily 
grown as Thyme. The 

41 




Sage (f natural size). 



642 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



seed is sown in spring or autumn, in rows or as edgings, which will 
last for many years without attention. Care should be taken, how- 
ever, to have the plants in a well-drained and rather dry position, 
for the plant is a native of Southern Europe, and grows naturally 
on dry, calcareous hills. Nevertheless, it withstands our ordinary 
winters. The leaves are used for seasoning. 



SALSAFY, or VEGETABLE OYSTER 

Tragopogon porrifolzus, L. Composites. 

French, Salsifis. German, Haferwurzel. Flemish, Haverwortel. Danish, Havrerod, 
Italiati, Barba di becco. Spanish, Salsifi bianco. Portuguese, Cercifi. 

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — A plant with a long, fleshy tap- 
root, 6 to 8 in. in length, and i in. or less in diameter, with a 
yellow, rather smooth skin. Leaves straight, 
very long and narrow, half-spreading at first, 
afterwards erect, somewhat glaucous and 
gray-green, with a white line running through 
the middle ; stem smooth, branching, 3 ft. 
or more high ; flower-heads terminal, much 
elongated, swollen at the base, and contracted 
at the top at the time of blooming ; florets 
violet ; seeds long, generally curved, pointed 
at both ends, and with the whole surface 
furrowed and wrinkled. Their germinating 
power lasts two years for certain, and often 
continues longer. 

Mammoth Sandwich Island Salsafy.— 
A valuable improvement on the Common 
Salsafy just described. The roots are thicker, 
shorter, grayer ; the leaves larger and greener; 
the flowers larger and purple-red. Yields 
very little seed. 

Culture. — The seed is sown in spring, 
where the plants are to stand, in drills ro to 
12 in. apart. If the weather is dry at the 
time of sowing, the drills should be watered 
a few times to assist the germination, which 
is always somewhat uncertain. The seedlings 
should be thinned out to about 4 in. apart 
in the drills, and the hoe and the watering- 
pot should be used when necessary. The 
roots may be gathered for use about October, and will yield a 
supply all through the winter. They are always finer and smoother 
if the ground has been well dug and prepared before sowing. 




Salsafy, or Vegetable 
Oyster natural size). 



SALSAFY, OR VEGETABLE OYSTER 



643 



Uses. — The roots are sent to table boiled, and the tenderest 
leaves form a very good salad. 

In some parts a yello^v-flo^vered variety of Salsafy is grown, 
which probably originated from a botanical species different from 
T. porrifolius. This might be either T, pratensis, L., which is 
common in meadows throughout the whole of France, or T. 
orientalis, which is larger than T. pratensis in all its parts, and 
consequently comes nearer to the size of the cultivated plant ; or it 
might be T. Major, Jacq., which in all respects, except the colour 
of the flowers, resembles the Common Salsafy {T. porrifolius). It 
appears certain, mioreover, that T. pornfoluis itself was first brought 
into cultivation at a comparatively recent date. 

SAMPHIRE 

Crithmum inaritimuni, L. UmbellifercB, 

French, Perce-pierre. Ge^-man, Meer-Fenchel. Flemish and Dutch, Zeevenkel. 
Italian, Bacicci. Spanish, Hinojo marino. Portuguese^ Funcho marine. 

Native of Europe, including Great Britain. — Perennial. — 
Samphire usually grows on rocks or the steep sides of cliffs by the 
seaside, but always above 
high-water mark of the 
highest tides. It is a 
plant with a creeping 
root-stock ; the stems are 
short and stout, finely 
striated, and often 
branched, the branches 
being very widely forked. 
The leaves are twice and 
thrice divided into linear, 
thick, sv/ollen, fleshy seg- 
ments. Flowers small, 
whitish, in terminal 
umbels ; seeds oblong, 
elliptical, yellow, flattened 
on one side, and convex, 
with three prominent ribs 
on the other ; remarkably 
light for their size. Their germinating power is quite gone after 
the first year. By the seashores the Samphire is gathered from the 
rocks where it grows naturally, but it may be grown in gardens by 
^wing the seed in autumn, as soon as it ripens, in good, light, well- 
drained soil. It is advisable to cover the seedlings in the winter 
with some protection from frost, to which the plants are rathei 




Samphire (^V natural size). 



644 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



sensitive. It grows still better when planted in crevices at the 
bottom of a wall with a warm aspect. The leaves are pickled in 
vinegar and used as a seasoning. 



SUMMER SAVORY 

Satureia hortensis, L. Labiates. " 

French, Sarriette annuelle. German, Bohnenkraut. Flemish and Dutch, Boonenkruid. 
Danish, Sar. Italian, Santoreggia. Spanish, Ajedrea comun. Portuguese, Segurelha. 

Native of South Europe. — Annual. — A small-sized plant, 8 to 
10 in. high, with an erect, branching, herbaceous stem. Leaves 

soft, linear, slightly obtuse, 
and narrrowed into a short 
leaf-stalk ; flowers pink or 
white, borne in clusters of 
from two to five ; seeds 
brown, ovoid, very finely 
granulated. Their germi- 
nating power lasts for three 
years. The seed of the 
Summer Savory is sown in 
the latter end of April, or 
in May, in good, warm, 
light soil ; or plants may 
be forwarded by sowing in 
March in a hot-bed, and 
planting out in the open 
air about the end of May. 
In June the ends of the 
stems may be gathered for 
use ; the plants then form 

Summer Savory ^^^^l^^^^^^^ detached branch, ^,^^,^^^5^ Continue tO 




several weeks, 
flavouring. 



The leaves and 



produce new shoots for 
young shoots are used for 



WINTER SAVORY 

Satureia montana, L. 

French, Sarriette vivace. Germati, Perennirendes oder Winter-Bohnenkraut. 
St)anish, Hisopillo. 

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — A low-growing plant, 
spreading on the ground. Stems woody, at least at the base, 
slender, very branching, and from i ft. to 16 in. high ; leaves 
narrow, linear, very acute, and slightly channelled on the upper 
surface ; flowers white, pink, or pale lilac, in small axillary clusters ; 
lower lip divided into three segments ; seeds brown, triangular-ovoid 
in shape, and very finely shagreened. Their germinating power 



WINTER SAVORY 



645 



lasts for three years on an 
average. The seed may be 
sown in spring or the latter 
end of summer, on the edges 
of beds of other vegetables, 
or in drills 14 to 16 in. apart. 
The plant is sufficiently 
hardy to withstand ordinary 
winters in the climate of 
Paris, provided it is grown 
in well-drained soil free 
from stagnant moisture. It 
requires no attention ; but 
if the stems are cut down 
every spring to about 4 in. 
from the ground, a much 
more abundant supply of 
vigorous young shoots will 
be produced. The leaves 





Scorzonera, 



Winter Savory natural size ; detached 
branch, natural size). 

and young shoots are used for 
flavouring, like those of the Summer 
Savory. 

SCORZONERA 

Scorzonera Jiispanica, L. Compositce. 

French, Scorsonere. German, Scorsoner. Schwaiz 
wurzel. Flemish and Dutch, Schorseneel. 
Danish, Schorsenerrod. Italian, Scorzonera. 
Spanish, Escorzonera. Portuguese, Escor- 
cioneira. 

Native of Spain. — Perennial. — 
This plant is cultivated as an annual 
or a biennial. It has a fleshy tap-root, 
resembling that of the Salsaf}^ in size 
and flavour, but distinguished from 
it by the black colour of the skin. 
The leaves also of the Scorzonera 
are much broader than those of the 
Salsafy ; they are lanceolate-oblong 
and pointed ; the stem-leaves are 
sessile and are also of some breadth. 
Flowers bright yellow ; seeds white, 
smooth, very long, blunt at one end 
and more or less pointed at the other. 
Their germinating power lasts for 
two years at least. The Scorzonera 
is grown in exactly the same manner 



646 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



as the Salsafy. After the first year's growth, the roots will continue 
to increase in size without becoming less fit for use, even though 
the plants may have produced some stems and flowers in the 
course of the summer. The roots are eaten boiled, like those of 
the Salsafy ; the leaves also may be used as salad. 

FRENCH SCORZONERA 

Scorzomra picroides, L. ; Picridiuin vulgare, Desf. CompositcB. 

Frerich, Picridie cultivee. Italian, Caccialepre. 

Native of South Europe. — Annual. — Radical leaves sinuated, 
or cut into entire or toothed lobes, generally obtuse, and forming a 
rather full rosette 10 to 12 in. in diameter. Stems numerous, 
branching, smooth, bearing a few long, narrow leaves, which are 
clasping at the base and usually toothed ; flower-heads terminal, 
largish, swollen at the base, and composed of yellow florets ; seed 
brown, small, long, marked with four furrows and four prominent 
transversely notched ridges. Its germinating power lasts for five 
years. It is sown in drills like Parsley or Chicory, and the leaves 
are cut for use as small green salad, like Chicory. After being cut, 
the plants send out fresh leaves, and several successive cuttings 
may be made in the course of the season. In hot weather frequent 
waterings are serviceable. The young leaves are used as salad, 
especially in Italy. 

SCURVY-GRASS 

Cochlear ia officinalis, L. Cruciferce. 

French, Cochlearia officinal. German, Loffelkraut. Flemish, Lepelkruyd. Dutch, Lepel- 
blad. Danish, Kokleare. Italian and Spanish, Coclearia. Portuguese, Cochlearia. 

Native of Europe. — 
Perennial, but cultivated 
as an annual. — This plant 
has some resemblance to 
the Water-cress. Leaves 
rounded, numerous, shining, 
and dark green ; radical 
leaves long - stalked and 
heart-shaped ; stem-leaves 
sessile, oblong, and more 
or less toothed ; stems 
numerous, bearing small 
white flowers ; seeds small, 
oval, slightly angular, rough 
skinned, and red-brown in 
colour. Their germinating 
power lasts for four years. 
Scurvy-grass natural size). All the green parts have 




SCURVY-GRASS 



647 



a strong acrid taste and a very tarry flavour. The seed is sown 
where the plants are to stand, and, if possible, in a cool, shady 
position. Scurvy-grass requires no special attention. The leaves 
are sometimes eaten as salad, but the plant is more usually grown 
for medicinal purposes, its anti-scorbutic properties being well 
known. 



SEA-KALE 



Crambe maritima^ L. Cruciferce. 

French^ Crambe. German^ Metx-oder See- Kohl. Flemish and Dutch^ Zeekool. 
Danish, Strand-kaal. Spanish^ Soldanela maritima. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Leaves broad, thick, fringed, 
often twisted and cut at the edges into rounded segments, and a 
very peculiar glaucous 
green, almost the same on 
both sides of the leaf ; 
stems stout, branching, 
from 20 in. to 2 ft. high ; 
flowers very numerous, 
white, and broad, suc- 
ceeded by seed-vessels 
which are almost spherical, 
a little less than | in. in 
diameter, white, rather 
hard, never opening when 
ripe, and each containing 
only a single seed. The 
germinating power of the 
seed declines rapidly after 
the first year. 

The Sea-kale, which 
is found in the wild state 
on most of the sea coasts 
of Western Europe, is very 
little used as a vegetable 
in France, although it has 
been for many years extensively cultivated in England. The 
leaf-stalks of the plant are prepared for table use by blanching in a 
dark place, by which means tender shoots of an agreeable flavour 
and only a slightly bitter taste are obtained, whereas if grown 
exposed to the light they become intolerably acrid. 

Culture. — Sea-kale may be propagated either from divisions 
or cuttings of the root or from seed. By the first-named method, in 
February or early in March, the roots of old plants are cut into 
pieces about 4 in. long, which are at once planted, where the crop is 




Sea-kale natural size). 



648 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



to stand, in good, well-dug, and well-manured soil, and at a distance 
of 2 ft. 8 in. from one another in every direction, as the plants grow 
to a pretty large size. In the first year the young plants attain a 
certain degree of strength, and may be cut for use in the ensuing 
winter, if a supply is badly needed. It is better, however, not to 
commence cutting until the second year. In raising plants from 
seed, the seed is sown either in a seed-bed or where the plants are 
to stand. In either case, it should be sown as soon as possible 
after it ripens and without being shelled. When the young plants 
in the seed-bed have made four or five leaves, they are planted out 
permanently, at the same distance from one another as the cuttings 
of the roots above mentioned. In sowing where the plants are to 
stand, the seed is placed in holes or pockets, which also should 
be the same distance apart as the root-cuttings. These pockets 
should be well filled with compost, and the ground should be kept 
very free from weeds. The growing plants should be frequently 
watered until they have attained their full size. When they are 
sufficiently strong, and out of danger from the black flea {Haltica 
nemorum), all the seedlings in each pocket are pulled up except the 
strongest one, which is left to grow, and during the remainder of 
the year and the whole of the following years the plants are treated 
in exactly the same way as plants raised from root-cuttings. They 
will not be fit to cut for use until the spring of the third year, and 
after that they will continue to bear for eight or ten years. 

In order to blanch Sea-kale, each crown of the plant is covered 
with an inverted flower-pot, care being taken to stop the hole in the 
bottom so as to entirely exclude the light, and the pot is also more 
or less covered with soil or dry leaves. If it is desired to force the 
plants, the pots should be completely covered with suitable manure, 
and in a few weeks the shoots will be sufficiently grown for use. 
In gathering them, there need be no hesitation in cutting them at 
some distance below the blanched part, as the root-stock has always 
a tendency to grow overground. Plants may also be forced in a 
hot-house, hot-bed, or an^ other place supplying artificial heat. 
For this purpose the plants are taken up entire, and replanted close 
to one another in fresh sand. As with plants grown in the open 
air, the shoots should be covered, either with more sand, or in any 
other way so as to exclude the light. Care should be taken to 
cover the plants with soil every year, to prevent the roots from 
becoming bared. In order to maintain the vigour of the plants, 
some shoots should be left uncut on each plant, and these should 
not be allowed to flower, as the plant would thereby be more or less 
exhausted for nothing. It is advisable to go over the plants every 
autumn and remove all dead leaves and weak and superfluous 
shoots, and also to spread some light soil or compost over any parts 
of the ground where the roots of the plants are becoming bared. 



SEA-KALE 



649 



As the Sea-kale is a seaside plant, a little common salt, mixed with 
the soil, can hardly fail to be beneficial to its growth. 



Like Rhubarb, the use of Sea- 
kale is at present almost confined to 
the English people at home and 
abroad. It has gone to America 
and the antipodes, but has not 
crossed the Channel ! We speak of 
its general use — in a few gardens in 
France it may be seen, but they 
belong to those who have learned to 
care for the plant in England or who 
have English gardeners. 

Forced Sea-kale fit for use can 
be had early in December, and by 
growing a sufficient number of 
plants a constant supply may be 
maintained till late in the spring. 
The stock of roots may either be 
grown from seed sown in the spring, 
or by selecting roots from plants 
lifted in the autumn to be prepared 
for forcing, which may be easily 
accomplished in any warm structure 
kept dark for blanching purposes. 
Seeds of Sea-kale may be sown in 
March or early April, in drills 9 in. 
apart, or broadcast upon beds 4 ft. 
wide, covering them with fine soil. 
When large enough, the young plants 
should be thinned out to several 
inches apart to afford ample room 
for growth. The following spring 
they will be large enough to trans- 
plant into a piece of ground deeply 
trenched and dressed with rotten 
farmyard manure. Some time in 
March lift the plants carefully with 
a fork, and plant them in rows 12 in, 
asunder and 9 in. plant from plant, 
i.e. when grown for lifting in autumn 
for forcing. But if to be planted to 
make stools for forcing in the open 
air — which may be done by covering 
them with hot manure and leaves- 
plant the rows 3 ft. apart and 2| ft. 
clump from clump. This will give 
plenty of room to cover the plants 
with heating material. Three or 



four plants may be placed in each 
clump, allowing 3 or 4 in. between 
each plant. Take care that the 
plants are 3 in. clear of the rims of 
the Sea-kale pots which are placed 
over them when ready for forcing. 
Where the plants are grown from 
roots or thongs, when lifted in 
autumn for forcing, the strongest 
should be selected ; but where the 
stock of roots is scarce, thongs may 
be used about the thickness of a 
quill pen, when they will be strong 
enough to force the following spring. 
Cut the roots 9 in. in length, leaving 
the top or thick end level, and the 
thin end slanting about | in., when 
it will emit a number of fibres. Tie 
the roots thus prepared in bundles, 
and lay them in some fine sandy 
soil, covering them 2 in. in thickness. 

Ground intended for Sea-kale 
should be deeply trenched during 
autumn, and enriched by several 
inches in thickness of rotten manure. 
If ridged as the trenching proceeds, 
the ridges must be levelled down in 
spring before planting. Early in 
April is a good time to plant the 
roots or thongs; they will then be 
found to have formed crowns, and 
will be pushing out young fibres. 
Rake the ground level after leveUing 
down the ridges, tread it firmly, 
and plant the sets in rows 12 in. 
asunder and 9 in. plant from plant. 
The ground will require to be fre- 
quently hoed between the plants 
during summer to keep down weeds 
and the surface open. Liquid 
manure will be found of great 
benefit to the plants during summer, 
and if at hand, a dressing of artificial 
manure may be given, for by feeding 
well during the growing season fine 
strong roots will be the result. As 
soon as frost kills the leaves in 



650 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



autumn the plants intended to be 
lifted for forcing should be taken up 
and laid in some light soil. Open 
a trench at one end of the plantation 
and lift the plants, with as many 
roots attached to them as possible. 
After taking off the thongs for next 
year's crop, lay the roots in some 
light dry soil, covering their crowns 
over with some dry litter to keep 
frost from them. Thus a few roots 
may be had during winter for forcing 
when required. From 55° to 60° 
will be heat enough, and the roots 
may be planted either in large 
flower-pots or boxes. If in pots, 
invert another the same size over 
the one in which the roots are 
planted. Thus circumstanced and 
placed in the temperature just 
named, fine, crisp, well-blanched 
Kale will be produced. If required 
soon after being put in warmth, 
place a few barrow-loads of hot 
manure in the house, and on that 
set the pots. The warmth induces 
quick growth and superior heads. 
If in boxes, they should be deep 
enough for the roots to stand upright, 
and there should be depth for the 
Kale to grow to its full length before 
it reaches the lid of the box. 

If more convenient, the roots may 
be planted in light soil in the Mush- 
room - house, covering them over 
with some light material to keep the 
crowns in darkness. Fine crops 
may also be grown upon ordinary 
hot-beds covered with frames and 
wooden sashes ; if glass sashes are 
used, they must be covered with 
straw and double mats to exclude 
light and keep the temperature of 
the frames equable, i.e. about 60°. 
The roots may be planted in light 
soil or in pots placed upon the 
heated material, which should be 
covered with sifted ashes or some 
light material to keep down the rank 
5team. Where Kale is required in 



large quantities, a Cucumber or 
Melon-house with bottom heat at 
command will be found to be one of 
the best structures in which to pro- 
duce it. Put a few inches of soil 
over the slates or boards forming 
the bottom over the pipes or hot- 
water tank ; in this set the roots 
upright several inches apart, running 
some soil in between them, and 
water well, and as soon as the 
crowns show signs of growth, give 
another soaking, and cover them to 
the depth of 9 in. or i ft. with dry, 
sifted leaf-mould or cocoa-nut fibre. 
Thus treated, in a very short time 
the tips of the leaves will appear 
above the covering, when the Kale 
will be fit for use. 

When forced in the open air, Sea- 
kale pots or boxes having wooden 
covers must be placed over the 
clumps of plants, and the pots or 
boxes must be covered with fer- 
menting material, consisting of hot 
stable manure and leaves well mixed 
together. Care must be taken that 
the manure does not overheat, or the 
crowns wall get scorched and the 
crop lost for the season. When 
planted in rows, if a covering of 
ashes or light loose soil is placed 
over the crowns from 9 in. to 1 ft. 
in depth just before the crowns 
start into growth in spring, the heads 
of Kale will grow up through the 
covering, and when uncovered the 
result is often a very superior crop, 
which, being late, is generally very 
acceptable, especially if, after a 
severe winter, other crops are 
scarce. 

Sea -KALE ON THE COAST. — 

Between Calshot Castle and Leap, 
Hampshire, Sea-kale grows wild 
luxuriantly on the beach, just above 
high-water mark, and those who live 
close to the shore claim so much of 
it as is opposite their domain. In 
autumn, when the stems die down, 



1 
j 

SEA-KALE 651 



they cover each stool with shingle, 
to the depth of 18 in. or so, which 
answers two purposes : it keeps the 
crown from being trodden underfoot 
in winter, and when the Kale com- 
mences to grow in spring it blanches 
it. The shoots are ready for use 
about the middle of March. A good 
harvest is made of it when fit to cut, 
which is just before it peeps through 
the shingle. The latter is carefully 
removed by the hand, so as not to 
break the tender stalks, which turn 
out quite clean and well blanched. 
It is sent to Southampton and Cowes, 
where it finds a ready market. Al- 
though all the crowns are covered at 
the same time, they do not all come 
in at one time ; for the cutting 
generally lasts three weeks. There 
is no reason why Sea-kale should 
not be grown on the coast in many 
places — that is, where any waste 
space is left above high water for its 
accommodation. Where any beach 
exists above high -water mark, seed 
may be sown in the following 
manner : — With a shovel open a 
trench t ft. deep, if shingly ; but, if 
sandy, half that depth will do ; sow 
the seed in it as you would Peas, 
but more thinly ; then fill it up, 
which is all that is necessary until 
the roots are large enough to be 
transplanted, which, if the seed be 
sown in March, will be in the suc- 
ceeding March. Take the roots up 
as carefully as possible, and plant 
them four in a 9-in. square, leaving 
a space of 3 ft. between the squares, 
and, if in lines, there should be a 
space of 6 ft. between the hnes. 
When covering the crowns for 
blanching, the shingle may be 
heaped up over them in ridges 
along the lines. This Kale is 
generally well blanched, stout in 
growth, and in every way excellent ; 
when cooked, the flavour is more 
delicate than that of ordinary forced 



Sea-kale, and it often produces stems 
9 in. long, each of which weighs 
one pound, and some twenty ounces. 
The reason of its quality is the use 
of the clean shingle. There is too 
much direct use of manure in the 
common way of forcing Sea-kale, 
and used in a way, too, which can 
contribute very little to the nourish- 
ment of the plant. Manure is for 
the roots, not the tops. Therefore 
we prefer the clean forcing which is 
possible in any heated and darkened 
structure to the old way of piling 
fresh manure over the Sea-kale 
plot in the garden. 

Market-Garden Culture. — 
Some growers raise Sea-kale plants 
from seed, but the majority pro- 
pagate them from root-cuttings. It 
is, however, advisable once in every 
few years to raise plants from seed 
in order to infuse fresh vigour into 
the stock. The best way of in- 
creasing Sea-kale is from the trim- 
mings or cuttmgs of the fleshy roots 
cut away from the plants when they 
are lifted for forcing. These thongs 
or roots, when removed, are thrown 
into a heap m a shed, there to 
remain until all the plantations that 
are to be lifted for forcing have 
been dug up and trimmed. The 
best of the trimmings are then 
selected, cut up into pieces about 
4 in. long, and laid in a heap 
by themselves, and the remainder 
thrown away. In January beds 
are prepared for the cuttings, about 
4 ft. in width, any length, and 
raised 6 in. higher than the sur- 
rounding level, to keep the Sea-kale 
roots healthy and free from damp. 
The cuttings are laid thickly on the 
surface of the bed and covered with 
soil. At planting time, which is in 
March, the beds are uncovered, 
when the roots will have formed 
several eyes, all of which are rubbed 
off, excepting the strongest top one. 



652 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Some growers do not cut the roots 
until planting time, but lay them 
on the beds as elected from the 
shed. In March, when the beds 
are uncovered, they select the best 
eye, then cut the roots at the re- 
quired length below it, and rub off 
all other eyes, as in the previous 
case. The Sea-kale cuttings, being 
thus prepared for planting, are in- 
serted with iron-shod dibbles into 
ground which was well manured 
and deeply dug or trenched in 
wunter, levelled in February, and 
lines drawn along it 3 ft. apart and 
planted with Cauliflowers, keeping 
them at the same distance asunder 
in the rows. Between the lines of 
Cauliflowers other lines are drawn 
precisely in the middle, and in 
them are planted White or Green 
Paris Cos Lettuces 18 in. apart. 
In the rows occupied by the Cauli- 
flowers, too, Lettuce-plants are 
inserted alternately. A Sea-kale 
plant is now^ placed alternately with 
the Lettuces and Cauliflowers, but 
in the same lines. The Lettuces 
are first ready for market, and are 
removed before they injure the 
Cauliflow^ers, which by the end of 
June are marketed, leaving the 
Sea-kale, which will be coming up 
strongly by this time, in sole pos- 
session of the soil. Some growers 
plant Sea-kale sets 15 to 18 in. 
apart amongst spring Cabbages, 
which are all removed before they 
can materially injure the Sea-kale. 
Others plant them between Aspa- 
ragus ridges ; but in this case they 
must all be lifted at the end of the 
first season, as is also the case 
when they are planted between fruit 
bushes and Moss Roses. Some 
market-gardeners who grow roots 
for sale plant their sets at 18 in. 
apart each way, and never intercrop 
the ground amongst them, but take 
great care of them ; and, under 



such management, they get finer 
roots than those produced among 
other crops. No care is necessary 
among Sea-kale plantations through- 
out the summer and autumn, beyond 
frequently hoeing the surface soil, 
cutting away all flower-spikes, and 
rubbing; off all small shoots that 
may chance to spring around the 
main one. 

When forcing-time arrives, if the 
field is to be kept to yield what is 
termed "natural" Kale, i.e. without 
being forced in any way, every third 
row of roots is lifted as required for 
forcing, and thus the rows are left 
in pairs with a space of 3 ft. betw^een 
them. The surface of the soil is 
then raked clean, and from this 
wide space the rows are earthed 
over to the depth of 6 in. to pre- 
vent the frost penetrating the ground 
amongst the crowns, and thus ren- 
dering it cold and late. The Kale 
begins to push about the second 
week in March, and. according to the 
position of the field and the nature 
of the soil and weather, a supply 
may be gleaned therefrom till the 
end of April. As soon as the point 
of a shoot of Kale is discerned above 
the ridge, the head is fit for cutting. 

For early forcing, the very best 
crowns, and such as the leaves die 
away from earliest, are selected and 
trimmed, so that 4 or 5 in. of the 
main stem, with the crown on the 
top, only remain. These are then 
placed closely together in an upright 
position in a hot-bed prepared for 
starting them in, which, in the case 
of the earliest batch, consists of a 
manure-bed covered with frames 
and sashes, and a few inches deep 
of soil levelled within the frames for 
planting the roots amongst. A heat 
of 65° or 70° is kept up inside the 
frames, if possible, by applying hot 
linings of manure and by placing 
litter or mats on the surface over 



SEA-KALE 



653 



the glass, which latter also keeps 
all dark and blanches the Kale. 
Sea-kale growers try to have a good 
cutting on Lord Mayor's Day ; but 
this is considered too early for 
regular forcing. 

Regular forcing commences about 
the first fortnight in November, and 
large trenches or beds, on which 
Cucumbers were grown during the 
summer, are cleared out and re- 
filled with hot manure, over which 
8 in. of soil is placed, and therein 
the Sea-kale is planted thickly in 
lines across the bed, which are about 
5 in. apart, and about the same 
space for a margin is left empty on 
each side. Amongst the roots, and 
all round the beds, rows of stakes 
are inserted, 18 in. of their length 
being left above the soil, after 
which some 6 or 7 in. deep of short 
litter is strewed over the whole 
surface of the beds, which are then 
covered over with mats supported 
on the ends of the stakes. Hoops 
and mats are often used instead of 
stakes. In about three or four 
weeks after the beds are made up 
cutting begins, when it is necessary 
to uncover the beds as the operation 
proceeds, drawing the short litter off 
the crowns to get at them, and re- 
placing it as speedily as possible, as 
all the crowns are not fit to cut at 
the same time. 

Beds for later crops are prepared 
on a well-sheltered plot of ground 
as near home and the manure-heap 
as possible. The ground is marked 
off into spaces either 4 or 5 ft. wide, 
with alleys 2 ft. wide between them. 
These spaces are used as beds, over 



which the soil from the alleys is 
placed, after finely breaking it, until 
the alleys are 20 in. deep. The 
Sea-kale crowns are then all lined 
into these beds as described in the 
case of earlier beds, and thus the 
beds are left uncovered until they 
are required for forcing ; but, as a 
rule, two or more of them are always 
being forced, and others started to 
succeed them. As these beds have 
no bottom-heat, it is not necessary 
that they should be immediately 
covered, as in that case they, being 
incited at the bottom, would grow, 
no matter whether their crowns are 
cared for or not ; but, in this in- 
stance, having no exciting agent, 
and being in a dormant state, they 
await the grower's convenience. In 
forcing them, the alleys between 
the beds are firmly filled with fer- 
menting manure, and the beds being 
covered, as formerly stated, with 
short litter and mats supported on 
the upright stakes, all is finished. 
The Kale takes a longer time to 
push into growth by this means 
than when forced on a manure-bed, 
and it does not come quite so 
regularly. This method, however, 
has the advantage of less trouble 
and risk, and great convenience in 
keeping up a supply until it can be 
produced from the open-air beds, 
after which the forced roots are 
removed to a heap by themselves, 
or to the piggery, where their 
vitality is sure to be destroyed. If 
conveyed to a field at once, with the 
manure which formed the beds, and 
dug in, they would grow again, and 



prove a future annoyance. 

There are only a few varieties of Sea-kale in cultivation : — 
The Common, the young blanched leaves of which have a 

purplish tinge when they are exposed to the light. 

The Lily white, the young leaves of which do not become 

purple, but change to green under similar conditions. In other 

respects the two varieties are identical. 



654 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The Feltham White, with large leaves, rumpled at the edge and 
large white ribs. 

Lately a variety of Crambe Tatarica(?) has been advertised 
under the name of Ovidius, but it does not appear to be equal to 
the above varieties. 

Uses. — The blanched stalks are eaten boiled, almost in the 
same way as Asparagus. When properly cooked, they preserve 
all their firmness, and have a very fine and agreeable flavour, like 
that of hazel-nuts, with a very slight amount of bitterness. 

SHALLOT 

Allium ascalonicum, L. Liliacece. 

French, Echalote. Germaft, Schalotte. Flemish and Dutch, Sjalot. Danish^ 
Skalottelog. Italian, Scalogno. Spanish, Chalote. Portuguese, Echalota. 

Native of Palestine. — Perennial. — Athough botanically very 
closely allied to the cultivated Onion, the Shallot, in its manner of 
growth, differs from it completely from a horticultural point of 
view. It is a plant which seldom produces seed, but has a pro- 
fusion of leaves, and its bulbs, when planted in spring, speedily 
divide into a great number of cloves, which remain attached to a 
common disc, and in a few months become as strong as the parent 
bulb. It has been in cultivation from a very remote period, and 
there are now several rather distinct forms of it in existence. [It 
may be well to note that the plant commonly sent in quantities to 
the London market is not the True Shallot, but a small roundish 
Onion with a rich brown skin. The true Shallot has a pale gray 
skin, and is elongated in shape. — R.] 

Culture. — The cloves are planted immediately after winter in 
good, rich, well-manured soil. Well-rotted farmyard manure suits 
the Shallot better than that which is fresh and strawy. It is still 
better, when possible, to plant the cloves in ground that was 
plentifully manured in the previous year. They should not be 
deeply buried, and the cloves of the Common Shallot should be 
placed about 4 in. apart. They may be grown either in beds by 
themselves, or on the edges of beds containing other vegetables. 
When the leaves commence to wither, about July, the tufts of 
plants are pulled up and left to dry for a few days, after which 
they are divided and the bulbs stored in a dry place. Those bulbs 
which are intended for planting may be left in the ground some 
time longer. 

Uses. — The bulbs, which keep for the whole year, are used as 
seasoning, and give a more delicate flavour than most Onions. 
The leaves are also eaten, cut when they are green. 

True Shallot. — Bulb the size of a small Walnut, sometimes 
larger, pear-shaped, narrowed in the upper part into a rather long 



SHALLOT 



655 




True Shallot. 



point, and covered with a russet-coloured skin, of a coppery red 
colour in the lower part, shading off into gray towards the upper 
extremity, and often wrinkled lengthways. The outer skin is thick 
and tough. When the dried 
coats are taken off, the bulb is 
greenish at the base, and violet- 
coloured at the top. Leaves 
small, very green, and 10 to 
12 in. long. This variety, which 
is more extensively grown than 
any other, has the advantage 
of keeping very well. At the 
Central Market, in Paris, some 
sub-varieties of it are met with, 
viz.— 

Echalote Petite Hdtive de 
Bagnolet. — Somewhat smaller 
than the type or true variety, and produces a great number of 
cloves to each plant. 

E. Grosse de Noisy. — Bulb the size of a small fig. This variety 
keeps well, and has a very thick tough skin. It does not multiply 
so much as the other kinds. 

E. Hdtive de Niort. — This is somewhat larger than the True 
Shallot, which it very much resembles in other respects, but 
commences to grow sooner. 

It is easy to perceive that these three forms are only slight 
modifications of the True Shallot 

Jersey, or False, Shallot. — Bulbs short, almost always irregular 
in shape, but sometimes perfectly rounded and broader than long, 
when they quite resemble a small Onion ; skin coppery red, thin, 
and easily torn. The bulb, when stripped of the dried coats, is 

entirely violet-coloured, the tint 
being somewhat paler than 
that of the True Shallot. The 
leaves are distinguished by 
their very peculiar glaucous 
hue. The bulbs do not keep 
so well as those of the True 
Shallot, and commence to grow 
sooner in spring. The Jersey 
Shallot flowers and seeds pretty 
regularly, the seed exactly re- 
sembling Onion seed. Indeed, 
in all the characteristics of its growth, this plant resembles an 
Onion, amongst which it might be classed after the Potato Onion. 
Another variety has been mentioned under the name of 




Jersey Shallot. 



656 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Aletiqon Shallot, with bulbs still larger than those of the Jersey 
Shallot and likewise with glaucous foliage. There is also a variety 
of the Jersey Shallot grown with silver-white bulbs, mild, and 
agreeable in flavour, but difficult to keep. The Ghent Shallot and 
the Russian Shallot differ but little from each other, and resemble 
the common Jersey Shallot. They are vigorous-growing plants 
with rounded bulbs. 



SKIRRET 

Slum Sisarum, L. Umbelliferce, 

French, Chervis. German, Zuckerwurzel. Flemish, Suikerwortel. Danish, Sukkerrod. 
Italian, Sisaro. Spanish, Chirivia tudesca. Portuguese, Cherivia. 

Native of China. — Perennial. — Authors generally concur in 
describing the Skirret as a native of China. It was introduced 

into France at a very early 
period, as it is mentioned by 
Oliver de Serres as a plant 
commonly cultivated in his 
time. He considered it to 
be a native of Germany, and 
to have been introduced from 
that country into Italy by 
the Emperor Tiberius. In 
any case the plant appears 
to have been more generally 
cultivated two or three cen- 
turies ago than it is at the 
present day. 

It is a plant with numerous 
swollen roots, forming a 
bunch from the upper part 
of the neck, somewhat like 
Dahlia roots, but much lonc^er 

Skirret (-At natural size ; detached roots, . , , t 

f natural size). more slender. Eeaves 

composed of large, shining 
dark green leaflets ; stems 3 to 4 ft. high, channelled, smooth, 
usually produced in the second year, but often in the first ; flowers 
small, white, in umbels ; seeds brown, oblong, curved, often cylin- 
drical, and marked with five longitudinal furrows. , Their germi- 
nating power lasts for three years. Roots grayish white ; flesh firm, 
very white, and sweet. The centre of the root consists of a woody 
core which, if not removed before cooking, is very detrimental to the 
root as a vegetable, and is not easily separated from the fleshy part. 

Culture. — Skirret may be propagated either from seed, offsets, 
or divisions of the roots. The seed is sown in autumn or early in 




SKIRRET 



657 



spring. When the seedlings have made four or five leaves, they 
are planted out permanently, in good, moist, rich, well-manured 
soil, and will commence to yield abundantly in the ensuing 
autumn. As the plants delight in abundance of moisture, they 
should be plentifully watered all through the summer. Divisions 
of the roots or offsets of old plants are planted in March or April, 
and the plants raised in this way are treated exactly like those 
raised from seed. It has been asserted that the roots of plants 
which have been raised from divisions or root-cuttings have the 
core less woody than those of plants raised from seed. This, 
however, is only true when a careful selection has been made of 
the roots used for propagating. Plants raised in the same seed-bed 
differ very much from one another in the size of the woody core, 
and it is evident that, by means of a judicious selection, the best 
may be propagated to the exclusion of all the others. As the 
Skirret is a very hardy plant, the roots may be left in the ground 
all the winter, and only taken up as they are wanted for use. 

Uses.— The roots, which are tender, sweet, and slightly floury, 
are used in the same manner as Salsafy or Scorzonera roots. 

SORREL 

Rum ex, L. Polygonacece. 

French, Oseille. German, Sauerampfer. Flemish and Dutch, Zuring. Italian, Acetosa. 
Spanish, Acedera. Poriugtiese, Azedas. 

Many species of Rumex are cultivated in gardens, all of which 
are perennial plants, and characterised by the acidity of their 
leaves. Of these, the principal varieties which are grown have 
sprung from Rumex Acetosa, R. montanus, R. scutatus, and R. 
Patientia, all of which grow wild in France. The garden Sorrels 
may be ranked among the plants which have been least modified 
by cultivation, as most of them are little, if anything, better than 
wild plants of the same species growing under favourable conditions. 

COMMON SORREL 

Rumex Acetosa, L. 
Oseille commune. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Leaves oblong, hastate at the 
base, with long-pointed auricles directed downwards almost parallel 
with the leaf-stalk, which is long and channelled ; stem hollow, 
striated, and often red ; flowers dioecious, in terminal and lateral 
^clusters ; seeds small, triangular, brown, and shining. Their 
germinating power lasts for four years. 

Culture. — The plant may be propagated by division of the 
tufts in March or April. This method is employed when, for 



42 



658 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Broad-leaved French Sorrel. 



instance, it is desired to form edgings of male-flowered plants alone, 
as these are not liable to be exhausted by bearing seed. The more 
usual way is to raise the plants from seed sown in spring, in drills, 

and, if possible, in good, 
deep, moist soil The seed- 
lings, when strong enough, 
are thinned out to the 
distance of 6 to 8 in. from 
one another in the drills. 
In about two months after 
sowing, some leaves will 
be fit to gather. Some 
persons, when gathering, 
cut off the whole plant 
with a knife, but the 
Parisian market-gardeners, 
who are well skilled in 
the cultivation of this plant, always gather the leaves one by 
one, selecting only those which are fully grown : a more abundant 
and continuous supply is obtained in this way than by cutting 
off all the leaves, large and small, at the same time. A plantation 
of Common Sorrel will last for three or four years ; when its 
productiveness begins to decline, new plants, raised either from 
seed or divisions of the tufts, should be substituted. The leaves 
are very extensively used, and are sent to table boiled. 

Broad-leaved French Sorrel {Oseille de Belleville). — This is 
the most extensively grown 
variety of the Common 
Sorrel, and is almost the 
only kind cultivated in the 
vicinity of Paris. It differs 
from the type in the greater 
size and paler colour of 
its leaves, and comes very 
true from seed. The 
market - gardeners around 
Paris often have whole 
fields under this plant, and, 
by growing it under frames, 
keep up a constant supply 
of fresh leaves nearly all 
the year through. 

White Large - leaved Large-leaved Sorrel. 

Sorrel. — Remarkable for the breadth and size of its 
which surpass those of the Belleville Sorrel. The old 
Sorrel, though an excellent, white, very early variety, 




leaves,. 
Virieu 
is far 



COMMON SORREL 



659 



from equalling this,- both as regards size of the leaves and 
productiveness. 

The following kinds have also been recommended : — 

Lettuce-leaved Sorrel. — A variety with broad, rounded, very 
light green leaves. 

O. Blonde de Sarcelles. — This kind is distinguished from the 
Broad-leaved French Sorrel by having longer leaves, and the 
leaf-stalks entirely green, without any tinge of red. 

All these varieties, in short, differ very little from one another, 
and, when propagated from seed, revert more or less to the Broad- 
leaved French Sorrel. 

MAIDEN SORREL 

Rumex montanus, Desf. ; Rmnex arifolius^ All 
Oseille vierge. 

Native of South Europe.— Perennial. — Leaves oval-oblong, 
hastate at the base, almost smooth, rather deep green, with short 
auricles of an almost bluntly rounded or shortly pointed shape and 
directed outwards ; leaf-stalks pink-coloured at the base ; stem 
resembling that of the Common Sorrel ; flowers dioecious, usually 
barren. The leaves of this species are rather larger than those of 
the Common Sorrel, and not so acid, and the plant is slow in running 
to seed. As it is dioecious, it may be employed, like the Common 
Sorrel, for making edgings, using male-flowered plants alone. Two 
forms of this Sorrel are distinct, viz. the Common or Green-leaved 
and the Crimped-leaved Maiden Sorrel ; the leaves of the latter 
being larger, slender, very much crimped, and marked with small 
red spots on the midrib and larger veins at the lower part of the 
stem. The wild form of the Maiden Sorrel {Rumex arifolius) is 
often met with in France. It is especially common in the pine 
forests on the high mountain districts of Central and Eastern France 
from the Vosges to the Alps. 

ROUND-LEAVED SORREL 

Rumex scutatus, L. - 

Oseille ronde. 

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — Peculiar in appearance, 
and not to be mistaken for any other Sorrel. The stems are 
slender, mostly prostrate, with small gray-green rounded or heart- 
shaped leaves, bearing at their base narrow auricles, directed 
outwards ; unisexual flowers are produced on the same plant, in 
spikes. The leaves are exceedingly acid. Its principal merit being 
its resistance to drought, it is usually grown as a summer crop. 



660 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



In addition to the foregoing, another species {Rumex alpinus, L.) 
is sometimes grown in gardens under the name of Pyrenean 
Sorrel. It has soft, wrinkled, reticulated leaves, and is especially 
characterised by the width of the sheathing part of the leaf. As 
a table vegetable it does not appear to possess any quality in 
v/hich it is not surpassed by the Patience Dock, or Herb Patience 
{Rumex Patzentza), which see. 

WOOD-SORREL 

Oxalis AcetosellUj L. OxalidacecB, 

French^ Oxalis oseille. Italian, Acetosella. Spanish, Acederilla. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — This plant, which grows wild 
in woods and cool, shady places, is sometimes gathered and 
eaten as salad, the leaves being acid and similar in flavour to 
those of the Common Sorrel. It is not often cultivated, and if 
any one desires to have a few tufts of it in his garden, the best 
way is to dig them up where they grow naturally and transfer 
them to a cool, shady part of the garden. By cutting them 
frequently a continuous supply of tender leaves may be obtained, 
and the plants will also be prevented from seeding. If allowed 
to seed, they sometimes multiply to such an extent as to become 
troublesome weeds. 

Deppe's Wood-sorrel {Oxalis Deppeiy Lodd.). — Native of 
Mexico. — Perennial. — Roots fleshy, white, semi-transparent, and 
resembling small Turnips ; leaves very long stalked, composed of 
four rounded very light green leaflets, each marked with a brown 
spot ; flowers large, carmine-pink, green at the base of the 
petals. 

Culture. — This plant is easily multiplied from the bulblets 
which grow in large numbers near the neck of the root. These are 
planted in April, in good light soil, either on the edges of beds or 
in rows 12 to 16 in. apart. The plants will continue growing until 
late in autumn without requiring any attention except watering 
in very dry weather. It is advisable to take the roots up before 
the approach of frosty weather, but if some of the plants can 
be conveniently covered with frames and, in this way, kept 
growing until November, they will produce much finer and larger 
roots. 

Uses. — The roots, which are tender and juicy, but very insipid, 
may be eaten. The leaves, used like those of the Common Sorrel, 
are a better table vegetable than the roots. They are tender, with 
an agreeably acidulous flavour, and, after being cut, the plant 
speedily sends out fresh leaves, which are fit for use in two or three 
weeks. 



SOY BEAN 



66i 



SOY BEAN 

Soja hispida, Moench. LeguminoscB. 

French^ Sqja. German, Soja-Bohne. 

Native of China. — Annual. — In China the varieties of this plant 

are almost as numerous as those of the Kidney Bean are in Europe. 
There are dwarf kinds and also tall ones which, if not climbers like 
our tall Kidney Beans, at least trail for a considerable distance. 
Up to the present time, only one or two dwarf early varieties have 
been cultivated in Europe and considered of any importance for 
table use, and to the de- 
scription of these we shall 
here confine ourselves. 
So far, it does not appear 
liable to be attacked by 
any insect, nor to suffer 
from any parasitical 
fungus, while its vigorous 
habit of growth, its great 
productiveness, and the 
richness of its beans in 
nutritive properties cause 
it to be justly esteemed 
as a valuable plant for 
agricultural and economic 
purposes. 

Culture.— The Soy 
Bean is grown in exactly 
the same manner as 
KidneyBeans. Itrequires 
nearly the same degree of 
heat, and ripens at the 
same time as the mid- 
season varieties of these 
plants. All the pods on a plant, however, do not ripen together, 
those which set first being often full-grown and nearly ripe while 
the plant still continues to flower on the upper part of the stem. 

Uses. — The beans are eaten, either green or dried, like Kidney 
Beans. The dried beans should be steeped in water for some time 
before they are cooked, otherwise they will remain almost as hard 
as they were when uncooked. 

Common Yellow Soy Bean. — A dwarf thick-set plant, forming 
small compact tufts from lO to 20 in. high, according to the rich- 
ness of the soil and the time of sowing. Flow^ers very small, green 
or lilac, in axillary clusters, and succeeded by hairy pods, each, 
containing two or three small beans, which are pale yellow when 




Soy Bean (|- natural size ; detached pods, 
\ natural size). 



662 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



ripe, and are scarcely larger than those of the Rice Kidney Bean ; 
their germinating power lasts for two years. This variety ripens 
in three or four months after sowing. 

Etampes Yellow Soy Bean. — This variety is not so early as 
the preceding one, but is far more productive. The plant forms 
branching tufts from 2 to over 2^ ft. high, which become laden with 
pods growing from the axils of all the leaves. The beans are 

much larger than those 
of the preceding variety, 
being almost as large as 
those of the China, or 
Robin's-egg, Kidney Bean, 
and sometimes a little 
more elongated. Their 
germinating power lasts 
for two years. This plant 
requires at least four or 
five months to complete 
its growth and come to 
maturity ; however, in 
ordinary seasons, it ripens 
the greater part of its pods 
in the climate of Paris, 

Podolian Soy. — A 
little over i8 in. high, 
erect, with medium-sized, 
dark green, much reticu- 
lated leaves ; the pods 
numerous, curved, contain- 
ing usually three black 
thick seeds. Much grown 
in Southern Russia, its 
principal merit is its earli- 
ness. The colour of its 
seed makes it less valuable 
for table use. 
Earlier than the Podolian, 
Like 




Etampes Yellow Soy Bean (| natural size; 
detached pods, 5 natural size). 



Very Early Brown-seeded Soy. 

with almost straight pods in large clusters, and brown seed, 
the Podolian, it ripens its seed in the climate of Paris. 



SPINACH 

Spinacia oleracea, L. ChenopodiacecB. 

French, Epinard. German, Spinat. Flemish and Dutch, Spinazie. Danish, Spinat. 
Italian, Spinaccio. Spanish, Espinaca. Portuguese, Espinafre. 

A plant of rapid growth, the wild form having arrow-shaped, 
pointed leaves, while in the cultivated varieties the leaves are 



SPINACH 



663 



broader and rounder, and are remarkable for the thickness of the 
parenchyma. In cooking they lose nearly all their savour, but 
keep their green colour. When growing, these leaves form a 
rosette, from the centre of which the flower-stem makes its appear- 
ance more or less speedily, according to the variety. The Spinach, 
being dioecious, bears only male flowers on some plants and only 
female flowers on others. The seed, which, of course, is only found 
on the female plants, varies very much according to the variety, 
that of some kinds being armed with three very sharp points, while 
in other kinds the seed is round and without points. 

Culture. — The seed is best sown where the plants are to stand, 
in drills 10 or 12 in. apart. It is advisable, in order to have a con- 
tinuous supply, to make successional sowings every fortnight, or at 
least every month, especially in spring and summer, when the plants 
run to seed quickly. Frequent and plentiful waterings are indis- 
pensable to ensure an abundant growth and good quality in the 
leaves. The market-gardeners around Paris have for a long time 
preferred the Prickly-seeded varieties for spring sowings, reserving 
the Round-seeded kinds for late summer and autumn sowings. At 
the present day, however, we have Round-seeded varieties which 
are quite as hardy and as slow in running to seed as any of the 
Prickly-seeded kinds. 



The first sowing for summer use 
should be made early in March, as 
a rule ; but in warm soils and situa- 
tions a small sowing maybe made 
in February. 

Summer Spinach. — Owing to the 
Summer Spinach being so liable to 
run to seed, it is advisable to make 
small sowings often rather than to 
make large sowings at long inter- 
vals — as by the former plan a 
regular supply of fine young leaves 
is ensured, whereas in the latter case 
small tough leaves have often to be 
used in consequence of successional 
crops not being sufficiently advanced 
to give a supply. It is therefore 
obvious that a sowing should be 
made once a fortnight, or at 
longest every three weeks, during 
the summer months. These sow- 
ings may consist of the Round 
Spinach for the first two or three 
sowings, and the Flanders or the 
Lettuce-leaved varieties for sowing 



through the summer. These two 
last-named kinds are far superior, 
both in quality and cropping, to the 
Round Spinach. For summer sow- 
ings it is best to choose as shady 
and moist a situation as possible, 
to save watering, as well as to pre- 
vent the plants from running to 
seed too quickly. All Spinach seed 
is benefited by being soaked in 
water for a few hours previous to 
sowing, inasmuch as it germinates 
more quickly and the growth is often 
stronger. Sowing in drills is by far 
the best mode of sowing the seed, 
as then the crop is more easily 
kept free from weeds, and watering 
or mulching can be effectually done 
when desired, as well as rendering it 
much easier to gather the crop. The 
drills should be about i ft. apart, 
and the plants, after thinning, at 
least 6 in. asunder. The Lettuce- 
leaved and Flanders require even 
more room than this, if the produc- 



664 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



tion of fine large leaves be aimed 
at. The last summer crop should be 
sown on a well-prepared border or 
quarter about the middle of July, in 
drills about i8 in. apart; this will 
yield a good supply of fine large 
leaves till October is out. 

- For the late or winter crop, 
prepare about the end of July a 
border or sheltered quarter ; apply a 
good coating of thoroughly decayed 
manure, trench the ground well and 
cast it up into ridges, so as to expose 
as great a surface as possible to the 
influence of the atmosphere. Any 
dry day till August loth or 12th 
cast down the ridges and pulverise 
with a steel fork, so as to sweeten 
and incorporate all together. Then 
draw lines i ft. apart and sow 
the hardy Prickly variety. As the 
plants advance, thin them out from 
6 to 9 in. apart, and maintain a 
healthy and vigorous growth by 
constant surface stirrings in suitable 
weather: this, if attended to, pre- 
vents canker, and encourages the 
production of an abundance of fine 
leaves for use every day through- 
out the winter. Timely forethought 
should be taken to shelter a portion 
with a row of short stakes about 
18 in. high, interwoven with fern, 
straw, evergreen branches, furze, 
heath, or other material, which 
should be neatly applied, and also 
made wind-proof. Thatched hurdles 
or frames, cheaply made of battens 
tacked together and thatched, might 
also be used for the purpose of pro- 
tecting from frost. The last sowing, 
to supply leaves in the spring, 
generally consists of the Prickly 
variety. The time to sow this crop, 
however, depends upon the locality. 
If sown too soon, it runs to seed 
the same season, and is useless. 
To sow it late enough to have a 
crop of leaves without the plants 
throwing up their flowering stems 



is what has to be aimed at, and 
for this reason many sow twice for 
the winter crops. In some parts of 
Scotland and the north of England 
the middle of August is not too 
soon, while in the south it is not 
often safe to sow before the end of 
September; but a practical acquaint- 
ance with the climate and locality 
will generally be the best guide. 
This crop is often sown after 
Potatoes or Onions. The winter 
crop will generally afford a good 
supply of leaves till nearly the 
beginning of June, by which time 
the Round or Summer Spinach will 
be coming in in abundance. 

A deep, rich, moist soil is neces- 
sary to grow good Spinach ; and if 
liberal supplies of liquid manure 
be given to summer crops, a great 
advantage will be gained thereby. 
Some care is required in picking 
Spinach, especially in winter, when 
the growth is often not equal to 
the demand. Indiscriminate picking 
will soon ruin the crop ; the largest 
leaves should therefore be taken 
first, and picked off singly, so as to 
avoid injuring the plants. 

Culture for Market. — Eng- 
lish market-gardeners seldom grow 
Spinach as a summer crop, as it 
"bolts" or runs to seed before 
many leaves have been gathered 
from it, and in that case it is by 
no means a profitable crop. The 
Round-leaved sort is that which is 
used for spring sowings, the first 
of which is made in February, a 
second about March ist, and another 
sowing or two at an interval of three 
weeks or thereabouts, just as space 
and convenience permit. The latest 
spring sowings are made on a damp, 
cool piece of ground, provided such 
can be obtained, as, thus circum- 
stanced, better leaves are produced 
in hot weather than on dry and 
warm soils. In July, if the weather 



SPINACH 



66$ 



be moist, a sowing of the Round- 
leaved variety is usually made on 
a spare piece of ground for autumn 
use. Early in August a large sow- 
ing of the Prickly-seeded or the 
Flanders is made broadcast on 
fields or in rows about 8 in. apart. 
Some growers prefer the Flanders 
on account of its large fleshy leaves 
and hardy constitution, and it sells 
in the market better than the Prickly 
sort. By sowing in the first and 
last week of August and the middle 
of September, a succession of 
Spinach from October till May is 
easily kept up. Coleworts are fre- 
quently planted in a field of late 
Spinach, at 3 or 4 ft. apart. In 
damp winters a large proportion of 
the roots may die, but in ordinary 
winters they survive, and produce 

Uses. — The leaves are eaten 



an abundance of large fleshy leaves 
in spring. No care is taken with 
this crop from the time of sowing 
till gathering, beyond hoeing and 
thinning once or twice, Spaces 
under fruit-trees are also covered 
with Spinach sown broadcast ; and 
as the trees are not furnished with 
leaves, they do not shade the plants. 
Open fields are also often sown with 
Spinach in beds, which are covered 
by throwing soil over them from 
the alleys ; on these beds Cauli- 
flowers are also planted, at the 
usual distances apart. By the time 
the Spinach has come well up the 
Cauliflowers will have become well 
established, so that the Spinach, 
which as soon as ready is removed 
for market, does not injure the 
Cauliflowers. 

boiled. 



COMMON SPINACH 

Spinacia spinosa, Moench. ; Spinacia olerac2a a, L, 

Epinard ordinaire. 

This form, which appears to come nearer than any other to the 
wild plant, is now very 
rarely cultivated, at least 
in France. It is dis- 
tinguished by its rather 
narrow, pointed, arrow- 
shaped leaves, by having 
the leaf-stalks tinged with 
red, and the seed armed 
with sharp, horn-like 
prickles. It is not a 
kind to be recommended. 
The germinating power of 
the seeds lasts for five 
years. 

Large Prickly, or 
Winter, Spinach. — Re- 
sembling the preceding 
kind in the seed, this 
variety is distinguished 

from it by the broadness Large Pnckly, or Winter, Spinach natural size). 




666 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



of its leaves (which, however, are distinctly arrow-shaped) and 
by its great productiveness. When sown thin, it often forms 
broad spreading tufts, with numerous branches, plentifully covered 
with leaves and rather slow in flowering. This habit of growth is 
peculiar to the plant. The Round-seeded varieties usually form 
only a simple rosette, from which, at flowering time, one or more 
vertical stems issue, bearing from their earliest growth well- 
developed organs of fructification. These stems also are hollow at 
the centre and much thicker, being sometimes li to if in. in 
diameter, while the stems of the Prickly-seeded kinds are seldom 
thicker than one's finger. This is a good, vigorous-growing, and 
hardy variety, and, as we have already observed, is preferred by 
the Parisian market-gardeners to all other kinds for spring sowings. 

There is a Prickly-seeded variety with roundish leaves, w^hich 
bears a tolerable resemblance to the Lettuce-leaved Spinach, and is 
known by the name of Epinard Camus de Bordeaux, or E. Rortd 
d Grai7te Piquante. It is very clear that, of two varieties which are 
equally good in other respects, the preference will always be given 
to the Round-seeded kind, the seed being more convenient to 
handle and more easily sown. 

ROUND-SEEDED SPINACH 

Spinacia glabra, Miller ; Spinacia oleracea 13, L. 

Epinard a graine ronde. 

The opinion of botanists that the Round-seeded Spinach is a 
distinct species from the Prickly-seeded, appears to be well founded, 
as the shape of the seed is a very permanent characteristic in these 

plants. Horticulturally 
also, the two kinds are 
clearly different, the 
Round - seeded always 
growing more thick-set 
and forming more com- 
pact and less spreading 
tufts than the Prickly- 
seeded varieties. Their 
germinating power lasts 
for five years. 

Round-seeded 
Round - leaved Large 
Dutch Spinach. — A 
good, vigorous, and hardy 
kind. Leaves arrow-shaped, large and broad, light green, crimped, 
especially while young, with blunt points generally slightly turned 
underneath. The leaf-stalks are about as long as the blades of the 




Large Dutch Spinach. 



ROUND-SEEDED SPINACH 



667 



leaves. Seed round. This form may be considered as the type of 
the Round-seeded varieties, which are improved modifications of it. 
At the present time, the Spinach which is most frequently sold 
under the name of Dutch Spinach, especially in Germany, is nothing 
but the Lettuce-leaved Spinach. 

Round-seeded Flanders Spinach. — This is the best-known 
and most extensively cultivated Round-seeded Spinach. Its 
characteristics are almost the same as those of the true Dutch 
Spinach, but it is of somewhat greater size, and the leaves are 




Round-seeded Flanders Spinach. 



rounder and less arrow-shaped. It is an excellent and productive 
variety, and may be sown nearly all the year round. When sown 
in autumn, it yields a very considerable crop in spring, and in this 
respect it and the following variety have a marked advantage over 
the Late-seeding Spinach, the growth of which is not so vigorous 
at the end of winter. The latter, however, in its turn, surpasses 




Viroflay Giant Spinach Q natural size). 



them in the summer months, when it yields a continuous supply of 
broad tender leaves, after the earlier varieties have entirely run to 
seed. 

Viroflay Giant Spinach.— This variety, which is a rather new 
one, resembles the Flanders Spinach in the shape of its leaves and 



668 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



in its habit of growth, but is of much greater size, as it is not unusual 
to see tufts of it measuring ' 2 to nearly 2 J ft. in diameter, with 
leaves 10 in. long and 8 in. wide at the base. Like all extremely 

vigorous - growing and 
large-sized varieties, this 
requires a plentiful supply 
of nutriment, and is worthy 
of recommendation, being 
especially suited for well- 
manured and well - kept 
gardens. 

L e 1 1 u c e - 1 e a V e d 
Spinach. — A very distinct 
variety, with oval leaves, 
which are rounded both 
at the base and the upper 
extremity, of medium size, 
spreading on the ground, 
and very dark green. 
Leaf-stalks short and stiff. 
The name of this variety 
does not convey a very 
Lettuce-leaved Spinach natural size). accurate idea of its ap- 

pearance, and it might, 
perhaps, be more appropriately styled the Sorrel-leaved Spinach, 
only that this name has been already applied to another variety 
which is now seldom met with in cultivation, and of which the 
leaves, with their short and partially violet-tinged stalks, very 




Victoria Dark Green Summer Spinach. 



closely resemble Sorrel leaves, not only in shape, but also in 
their light, pale colour. The Lettuce-leaved Spinach is a rather 
productive variety, notwithstanding its low and thick-set habit 




ROUND-SEEDED SPINACH 



669 




of growth. It answers well 
for summer and autumn 
sowings, and, when sown 
before winter, is one of the 
latest kinds to run to seed 
in spring. 

Victoria Dark Green 
Summer Spinach.— Distin- 
guished by its dark green 
glazed leaves, its lateness 
to flower makes it available 
during the whole summer. 
Like other late-seeding 
Spinaches, it forms a rosette 
of leaves flat on the soil. 

Savoy-leaved, or Curled, 
Spinach. — A rather curious 
kind with fairly large, much 
crumpled, glossy dark green 
leaves. Early and produc- 
tive, but rather prone to run 
quickly to seed. 

Late-seeding-, or Long- 
standing, Spinach. — We are 
indebted to M. Lambin, Secretary-general of the Soissons Horti- 
cultural Society, for our acquaintance with this excellent variety, 

which surpasses all others 
in the length of bearing. 
The plant forms compact 
tufts, with numerous dark 
green leaves somewhat 
more crimped and less 
rounded than those of the 
Lettuce - leaved Spinach, 
but yet resembling them 
more than those of any 
other variety. The leaf- 
stalks are very short, 
rarelyexceeding the length 
of half the blade of the 
leaf. The distinguishing 
quality of this variety is, 
as its name indicates, that 
it runs to seed more slowly 
and later than any other 

Late-seeding (Long-standing) Spinach. kind. The difference of 



Savoy-leaved Spinache 




6/0 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



time 



favour 



estimated 



at from fifteen to twenty 
days at least, according 
to circumstances, and is 
- especially marked in 
spring sowings, which are 
so often hable to run to 
seed too soon. 

L o n g - s t a n d i n g- 
Catillon Spinach. — A 
late long-bearing kind ; 
^ .„ ^ , , leaves medium-sized. 

Long-standing Catillon Spinach. , , ^, 

^ rounded, resembhng those 

of the preceding, but smoother ; a very good variety for spring and 
summer sowing. 




NEW ZEALAND SPINACH 

Tetragonia expansa, Ait. MesembryantJiemacecB. 

French, Tetragone cornue. Germa7t, Neuseelandischer Spinat. Flemish^ Vierhouk. 
Danish, Nyseelandsk Spinat. Italian^ Tetragona. 

Native of New Zealand. — Annual. — Stems spreading, branched, 
from 2 to over 3 ft. long, bearing numerous alternate thick, fleshy 
leaves, resembling Orache leaves in shape ; flowers axillary, small, 
greenish, and without petals, succeeded by hard horned seed-vessels 
somewhat like the Water 
Chestnut in shape, and of 
an almost woody texture 
in the interior, where the 
seeds are enclosed. The 
germinating power of the 
seeds lasts for five years. 
This plant is grown to 
supply the place of the 
ordinary Spinach during 
the hottest months of the 
year, or in dry, arid 
localities where theordinary 
Spinach does badly. The 
seed is sown, either in a 
hot-bed or in the open 
ground, where the plants 
are to stand, in May, and 
the plants will continue to 
yield a supply of leaves during the whole summer, requiring 
hardly any attention. The leaves are eaten boiled and minced 
like ordinary Spinach. 




New Zealand Spinach. 



STACHYS TUBERIFERA 



671 



STACHYS TUBERIFERA 
Or Chinese or Japanese Artichoke. 

A perennial, with creeping roots,quadrangular stems and opposite, 
oval, pointed, dull green, articulated, rough leaves ; flowers in 
compact terminal clusters, seldom seen in European climates, and 
therefore not seeding. 
The plant is, however, 
very easily increased by 
the thickened ends of 
the underground stems. 
These rhizomes, of 
which the engraving 
gives a very good idea, 
are white, watery, and 
tender, and fine skinned. 
They are formed only 
late in the season when 
the vegetation of the 
plant has almost ceased 
and the stems begin to 
wither. They keep with 
difficulty and should 
be lifted only when 
wanted. 

Culture.— Their 
culture is very simple. 
Therhizomesare planted 
from February to April, 
in light soil about i ft. 
apart. No other care is 
required during summer than to keep the soil free from weeds and 
to water in case of protracted drought. The rhizomes may be lifted, 
from October onwards. They are eaten fried, or as a salad, etc. 




Stachys Tuberifera. 



STRAWBERRIES 

Fragaria^ L. Rosace(2. 

French, Fraisier. German, Erdbeere. Flemish and Dtdch, Aardbezie. Danish, 
Jordbeer, Italian, Fragola. Spanish, Fresa. Poriiigztese, Morangueiro. 

Several species oi Fragaria have been introduced into cultivation, 
at different times, and, either through the improvement of the wild 
forms themselves, or by being crossed with one another, have con-, 
tributed to produce the diversified varieties which are now found in, 
gardens. The number of these varieties has become so great, that 
it is absolutely impossible to mention them all in this work, and; 
we have been obliged to make a selection comprising only those-. 



6j2 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



kinds which appeared to us most worthy of note, either as 
possessing in a high degree a combination of various good qualities, 
or as being specially adapted for some particular purpose. Earli- 
ness, productiveness, perfume, and fine flavour are qualities which 
every one will appreciate in a Strawberry, and it is according to 
the merit of varieties in these different respects that the amateur 
who grows them in his own garden for his own use will select 
the kinds of Strawberries which suit him best to plant. But the 
private gardener who forces them for an early crop, or the market- 
gardener who grows them on a large scale to supply the markets, 
must look for other qualities in the kinds which he takes in hand, 
especially if the fruit which he intends to sell has to be carried to a 
distant market. In the latter case, the property of bearing carriage 
without being damaged is one of such high importance that very 
often the possession of it is sufficient to decide the selection of the 
kinds which make their appearance in the markets. 

All -the varieties of cultivated Strawberries have in common the 
advantage of being remarkably early, and they supply the first fruit 
that ripens in spring. As the attentions which their culture requires 
vary to some extent according to the species from which the varieties 
have sprung, we shall give only some very general instructions on the 
subject. The germinating power oftheseeds lastsforaboutthreeyears. 

Culture. — Almost all the varieties of Strawberries suffer from 
dry and excessively warm weather ; it is therefore advisable to 
plant them in cool, moist ground, and in a position somewhat 
sheltered from the burning rays of the sun. If a little time is thereby 
lost, the produce, on the other hand, will be more abundant and 
more prolonged. The hardiness of Strawberries is such that they 
will withstand the winter without any protection from frost, but 
almost all the varieties are injured by an excess of moisture at that 
time of the year, and are liable to rot at the root if planted in 
badly drained ground. Once the warm weather has arrived, 
however, Strawberry plants, on the contrary, require to be 
plentifully watered, and it will generally be found advantageous to 
give them a good mulching with stable manure or straw, which, by 
preventing evaporation, will keep the roots cool and moist, so that 
the plants will not require to be so frequently watered. 

Uses. — The fruit, which is excellent and very wholesome, is 
eaten fresh, and is also used for preserves, etc. 

WILD, or WOOD, STRAWBERRY 

Fragaria vesca, L. 

Fraisier des bois. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A herbaceous, stoloniferous 
plant. Leaves composed of three folded toothed leaflets, which 



WILD, OR WOOD, STRAWBERRY 



673 



are hairy on the lower part ; flower-stem erect, branching, hairy, a 
little taller than the leaves ; divisions of the calyx reflexed after 
the flower has faded ; hairs on the flower-stalks adpressed ; fruit 
small, pendent, rounded or conical in shape ; seeds prominent, and 
extremely small. This species is common in the woods of the 
whole northern hemisphere, and especially so in mountainous 
districts. It has seldom been seen in gardens since the intro- 
duction of the Red Alpine Strawberry. We must, however, 
mention some forms of it which have been preserved up to the 
present day in the neighbourhood of Paris, from an adherence to 
old practices in the first instance, and also because the fruit of the 
Wood Strawberry possesses a quite peculiar perfume and delicacy of 
flavour. In low-lying districts its season lasts hardly a month, but 
on the mountains, on account of the difference in the time of ripen- 
ing at different altitudes. Wood Strawberries may be gathered from 
June to September. 

Fontenay Early Small Strawberry. — A variety differing very 
little from the Wood Strawberry. It is a very early kind, ripening 
seven or eight days before the Red Alpine Strawberry. Fruit 
small, round, and dark red when very ripe. The plant is not a 
continuous bearer, and only produces fruit in spring. 

Montreuil Strawberry.— A very distinct variety, with rather 
narrow, very light-coloured, folded leaves, which have a peculiar 
appearance. The plant is vigorous and productive. Fruit of a 
rather long, conical shape, but sometimes broad and of a cock's- 
comb form, and dark red when well ripened, which occurs some- 
what late, namely, about the end of June or early in July. This 
variety is very productive, but it only bears once in the year. It 
was raised in the neighbourhood of Montlhery by a horticulturist 
named Montreuil, in the early part of the eighteenth century. 

The Fraise MonopJiylle, or F. de Versailles^ which has only a 
single leaflet in each leaf, is another variety of the Wood Straw- 
berry, raised by Duchesne, the author of the celebrated " Mono- 
graphie du Fraisier." 

RED ALPINE STRAWBERRY 

Fragaria alpina, Pers. ; F. seviperflorens, Duch. 

♦ Fraisier des Alpes. 

Native of the Alps. — Perennial. — A very different plant from 
the Wood Strawberry, and distinguished from it by the greater 
size of all its parts — the fruit, in particular — and especially by 
the property peculiar to it of producing flowers and fruit con- 
tinuously all through the summer. The introduction of this Straw- 
berry into cultivation is of no very distant date, as it was brought 



43 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Red Alpine 
Strawberry 
(natural size). 



into France from Mont Cenis by Fougeroux de Bondaroy, in 
1754 ; but it speedily attained a very important 
position in horticulture, on account of its valuable 
quality of producing fruit at a season when all 
other varieties of Strawberries have long ceased 
bearing. The fruit has nearly the same appear- 
ance and flavour as that of the Wood Strawberry, 
but is generally larger, longer, and more pointed 
in shape. The seed also is perceptibly larger and 
longer. 

Culture. — As this Strawberry reproduces itself 
exactly in every respect from seed, many gardeners 
are in the habit of raising it in this way instead of 
from runners, and they generally agree in the opinion 
that plants raised from seed are more vigorous and 
more productive than the others. In order to ensure a very pro- 
longed and very abundant 
supply late in autumn, it 
is a good plan to rest the 
plants which are intended 
to bear at that time, by 
not allowing them to 
flower in spring, or at 
least by discontinuing to 
gather the fruit at an 
early period, and by 
cutting off the flowering 
stems and the runners, but 
continuing to water the 
plants all the time. Alpine 
Strawberries, when pro- 
perly taken care of, ought 
to yield almost as abun- 
dantly in September as 
in spring. The greatest 
difficulty in their culture 
is to make them fruit 
plentifully in July and 
August. 

White Alpine Straw- 
berry. — There are nume- 
rous varieties of Alpine 
Strawberry. Gne of the 
oldest known is the White- 
fruited kind, which difl"ers 

from the ordinary kind Alpine Belle de Meaux Strawberry. 




RED ALPINE STRAWBERRY 



675 



in the colour of the fruit, which is also not quite 50 acid. The 
plant is an equally con- 
tinuous bearer. 

Janus Alpine Straw- 
berry. — A very fine 
variety of the Alpine 
Strawberry, characterised 
by the fruit being conical, 
large, and well shaped, 
and becoming almost 
black when perfectly ripe. 
It is very productive, a 
very continuous bearer, 
and highly worthy of re- 
commendation in every 
respect. The variety 
comes very true from 
seed. 

Alpine Belle de 
Meaux Strawberry. — A 

sport of the Red Alpine 
Strawberry, characterised 
by the large size of its 
fruit and the intense red 
colour of the whole plant. 
Not only the stems and 
runners, but the flowers 
themselves, are often tinged with red, and the fruit almost black 
when quite ripe. Produces abundantly during six months pf 
the year, and comes quite true from seed. 

Bush Alpine Strawberry. — 
This very distinct variety has the 
advantage of growing without pro- 
ducing any runners, which often 
make it troublesome to keep Straw- 
berry-beds in order, and, on this 
account, it is peculiarly well adapted 
for planting as edgings. , There is 
one form of it with red, and another 
with white fruit. Both are hardy, 
productive, and continuous bearers, 
and reproduce themselves from seed 
with hardly any variation. They 
may also be multiplied by division 
of the tufts. 




Bush Alpine Red Strawberry, 




Red Alpine Duru Strawberry. 



Red Alpine Duru Strawberry.— Another improved variety of 



676 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Alpine Strawberry has been pretty much grown for some years 
past under the name of Fraise des Quatre Saisons Amelioree 
Duru. This is distinguished from the other varieties by the 
peculiar shape of the fruit, which is very long and slender ; it 
is lighter in colour than the Janus Strawberry. The size of 
the fruit of the Alpine Strawberry might be much increased by 
a careful selection of seed-plants, but it must not be lost sight 

of that every increase 
in the size of the 
fruit is usually gained 
at the expense of 
their number or the 
continuous production 
which is the real and 
greatest recommenda- 
tion of the Alpine 
Strawberry. 

Alpine Berger 
Strawberry. — Comes 
very near the preceding 
variety, but has longer 
and thicker fruit. A 
vigorous grower and a 
very continuous bearer, 
producing, especially 
when young, much 
perfumed scarlet 
fruit. 

M eudonnaise 
Perpetual Straw- 
berry. — This variety, 
which formerly was 
rather commonly 
grown in the neigh- , 
bourhood of Paris, but 
at present is somewhat 
neglected, is distin- 
guished at first sight 




Alpine Berger Strawberry. 



from all others by its rather light-coloured leaves, which have 
the peculiarity of being crimped or puffed in the middle, 
instead of being flat or folded in two, like those of most 
other varieties of the Alpine Strawberry. The fruit is large, 
conical, and very dark in colour when quite ripe. It ripens 
rather late. 

Schoene Anhalterin (Goeschke). — A compact-growing Alpine 
Strawberry with red fruit, of no particular merit. 



HAUTBOIS STRAWBERRY 



677 



HAUTBOIS STRAWBERRY 

Fragaria elatior^ Ehrh. 

Fraisier capron. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A stoloniferous plant, with 
folded, dull, dark green, and somewhat hairy leaves. Flowers 
usually dioecious through abortion ; fruit a very deep red-violet. 
In some plants, the pistils only are developed, and in others the 
stamens,so that fructification will not occur with certainty unless both 
forms of the plant grow within a short distance from each other. 

Culture. — The Hautbois, like most Strawberries, is almost 
always propagated from runners, which it produces in abundance. 
All the cultivated varieties of this Strawberry, being derived from 
a plant which grows wild in France, are perfectly hardy and easily 
grown ; nevertheless, since the appearance of the large or Pine- 
apple Strawberries which have now become so common, the 
Hautbois Strawberries have lost much of the favour which they 
formerly enjoyed. The peculiar and exceedingly strong flavour of 
their fruit is disagreeable to many persons, and they have not the 
advantage of producing a second crop in autumn, like the Alpine 
Strawberry. Any good well-drained soil suits them, and the plants 
may be left growing in the same place for several years, but it is 
necessary to plant male and female plants together in order to 
ensure complete fructification. 

Common Hautbois, or Musky, Strawberry.— This variety 
exhibits all the characteristics of the species from which it is 
derived, with a vigorous habit of growth and 
abundant foliage. The fruit are very numerous, 
nearly spherical, slightly shortened at the 
point, elongated at the neck, and without seeds 
on the part next the calyx. They do not 
ripen until about the end of June, and are 
then of a violet or wine-red colour. The flesh 
is very solid, juicy, buttery, and melting, white 
or faintly yellow, or sometimes greenish, and 
with a very strong flavour, something like that 
of Black Currants. The leaf-stalks are very 
hairy, especially when young. Common Hautbois, or 

Belle Bordeiaise Strawberry.— A plant fna?urai 3^^^''^ 
of smaller size than the preceding kind, but 

more thick-set and compact in growth. Leaves of a light, almost 
gray-green ; leaflets long oval, with well-marked veins and sharp, 
deeply cut teeth ; flower-stems erect, well raised above the leaves ; 
flowers large, pure white, with very round petals ; fruit rather long, 
often conical, considerably larger than that of the Common Hautbois 
Strawberry, and ripening about the middle of June. 




678 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The following species are also worth mentioning : — 

Short-runnered Wild Strawberry {Fragaria collina, Ehr.). — 
Resembles the common Wild Strawberry, excepting that the 
runners are not jointed ; from the Alpine Strawberry it differs 
in not fruiting continuously. The fruit is more like that of the 
Hautbois than any other kind. 

Scarlet Virginia Strawberry {Fragarza Virgmmna, Ehr.). — 
Native of North America. — A stoloniferous plant, with long smooth 
leaves and small round fruit, very slender stalks, and deeply sunk, 
small and brown seed. It is an early and a hardy, but not con- 
tinuous bearer. The fruit is very small, and rather light scarlet 
even when ripe. 

Chili Strawberry {Fragarza Chilensis, Duch.). — Native of Chili. 
— A stoloniferous species, of compact growth, very hairy on all its 
parts. Fruit large, irregular in shape, orange-coloured and more 
or less hairy. The fruit ripens late, and varies in form and colour. 
Not very hardy, and succeeds only in seaside districts, especially 
in Brittany. 

PINE-APPLE STRAWBERRY 

Fragarza grandiflora, Ehrh. 

Fraisier Ananas. 

The origin of this large-fruited form of Strawberry is very 
obscure. At the time of its introduction into cultivation, about the 
middle of the eighteenth century, it was not exactly known how it 
originated. Moreover, two kinds of Strawberry have been known 
by this name — one, described by Poiteau, which is not the true 
Pine-apple Strawberry ; the other, which is much more extensively 
grown, especially in England and Holland, appears to have produced, 
either by variation or perhaps from crossing, most of the large- 
fruited kinds known as " English " Strawberries. It is very 
possible that the Pine-apple Strawberry itself is the offspring of 
a cross between the Chili Strawberry and some other botanical 
species. The typical plant, as preserved in some collections, is of 
a vigorous and rather thick-set habit of growth. The leaves are 
rather like those of the Scarlet Virginia Strawberry ; the flower- 
stems are stout, not very tall, and somewhat hairy, and the flowers 
are very large ; the fruit is round or slightly heart-shaped, and of 
a pale pink colour, with a faint yellow or salmon-coloured tint ; the 
flesh is very white and often hollow at the centre ; the seed is 
brown, medium-sized, and not very deeply sunk. 

From the seed of this Strawberry thousands of distinct varieties 
have been raised, and of these we shall now describe the best and 
most noteworthy. 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 



679 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 

French^ Fraisiers hy brides. German^ Grossfnichtige Erdbeeren. Spanish, Fresones. 

The varieties which are comprised under the name of Hybrid 
or Large-fruited Strawberries are far from presenting an identity 
of character, so that we shall not endeavour to give any general 
description of plants which exhibit so many points of difference 
from one another. To give some idea of the diversity which exists 
amongst them, we may observe that the colour of the fruit varies 
from white to blackish red, while the weight ranges from less than 
a quarter to over three ounces. The flavour also of the fruit, the 
size of the seed and the depth to which it is sunk in the surface of 
the Strawberry, the size of the flowers, the time of ripening, and 
the number of runners produced exhibit equally strongly marked 
differences. 

Culture. — The Hybrid Strawberries like well-drained, deep, 
substantial soil, but they readily accommodate themselves to soils 
of various kinds, provided they are not brought into contact with 
stagnant moisture, which injures them more than anything else. 
Any kind of garden soil, by being moderately well dug and properly 
manured, can be brought to produce good Strawberries, unless the 
climate is excessively dry. The seed of Hybrid Strawberries is 
rarely sown except for the purpose of raising new varieties, and 
they are almost always propagated from runners — a method so 
prompt and easy that a better could hardly be desired. The 
runners are long, slender, bare, and cord-like branches, the swollen 
extremity of which bears a cluster of leaves, and from its under- 
surface speedily sends out roots and attaches itself to the soil at 
a short distance from the parent plant. The runners of the Hybrid 
Strawberries do not end with the rooting of the first cluster of 
leaves, but produce four or five joints in succession, each bearing 
at its extremity a cluster of leaves which grows and roots itself like 
the first, under favourable conditions. The runners begin to 
appear when the plant comes into flower, and continue to increase 
in length all through the summer, during which time the plant will 
also produce fresh ones, should the first have been cut off. About 
August, the earliest plants of the runners will be well rooted and 
strong enough to be planted out, either as edgings or in beds, each 
containing three or four rows of plants, which should be about 
20 in. apart in every direction. Before planting, the ground should 
have been well dug, well manured, and covered with a good litter 
of manure or dead leaves. The young plants wull begin to bear in 
the following spring, and the fruit will be more abundant and finer 
if all runners are carefully removed. As soon as the first fruit are 
formed, it is advisable to place a layer of long straw, or else slates 
or tiles, on the ground under the young fruit, to keep them from 



68o 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



coming into contact with the damp soil. When this is done, the 
fruit ripen sooner, and are always clean, even after heavy rain. A 
bed of Strawberry-plants usually continues to bear well for two 
or three years. In the second year, preparations should be made 
to replace the plants with new ones, so as to have the beds always 
in full bearing. The weakest runners and those produced latest 
in autumn may be transplanted into a nursery-bed, in order to be 
planted out in spring, but these must not be expected to bear fruit 
until the year after they are planted out. Strawberries are some- 
times forced in hot-houses, but more usually in frames or pits 
heated by hot-water pipes. Plants for forcing are raised in pots 
and placed in artificial heat from the end of October until Straw- 
berries begin to ripen in the open air. By pinching off the first 
runners of plants growing in the open air beyond the first joint, 
and rooting each of the young plants in a flower-pot filled with good 
soil, plants may be obtained sufficiently well grown to be repotted 
in autumn and forced in the ensuing winter. The same method 
may be employed to forward plants which are to be planted out in 
the open air. The varieties of Hybrid Strawberries which are best 
adapted for forcing are : — Princesse Royale, Marguerite, Vicointesse 
Hericart de Thury, and La Constante ; and, of English varieties. 




Black Prince^ Keens 
Seedlings and British 
Queen. 



Uses. — The fruit is 
eaten raw, and is also 
made into sweetmeats 
and preserves. 



Van-Guard Strawberry. 



Albany ( Wilson).— 
An early and productive 
variety. Plant of vigor- 
ous, compact growth ; 
leaves dark green, with 
long, thin, hairy stalks ; 
leaflets oval, sharply 
toothed ; flower - stems 
numerous, erect; flowers 
small with narrow petals. 
Fruit small, rounded,, 
or heart-shaped, dark 
scarlet-red, and very 
abundant ; flesh red,, 
juicy, but very acid. 
Ripens mid-season. Its 
acid flavour and small 
size disqualify it for table 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 



6Si 



use, but for cooking and preserving it is unsurpassed, superior 
even to the famous Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury. 

Van-Guard Strawberry. — A very productive, vigorous, bushy 
plant, with laree dark green leaves. Fruit medium-sized, but very 
numerous, globular or oblong in shape, of bright red colour ; seeds 
almost projecting ; flesh pink, fairly sweet, but not much perfumed. 
It bears larger fruit than any of the other early sorts. Its chief 
merits are its great earliness and its abundant and prolonged yield. 

Barnes's White Strawberry {Bicton Pine). — Plant of moder- 
ately vigorous, rather thick-set habit of growth ; leaves rounded, 
dark, shining green, deeply and rather sharply toothed ; veins very 
distinctly marked ; leaf-stalks long, slender, and green ; flowers 
numerous, small, and 
borne on short branch- 
ing stems which are 
scarcely taller than the 
leaves ; fruit round or 
conical, blunt, white 
slightly tinged with 
pink ; flesh very white, 
not crisp, sugary, juicy, 
and a rather strong 
musky flavour ; seeds 
half-projecting, red or 
brown. Fruit ripens 
mid - season. A very 
productive variety, 
especially notable for 
the white colour of the 
fruit. After fruiting, 
the plant remains re- 

markably compact and Belle de Cours Strawberry. 

thick-set. It produces 

few runners, and these are short, stiff, and thickish, and bear the 
clusters of leaves closer together than the runners of most other 
Strawberries. 

Belle de Cours Strawberry.— A vigorous sort, ripening late,, 
with numerous conical dark red fruit ; flesh rosy white, firm and 
sweet. A garden more than a market variety. 

British Queen Strawberry.— Plant of medium height, and 
somewhat delicate ; leaves oval, rather long ; leaf-stalks hairy, often 
red ; leaflets oval, nearly round, with very large short teeth ; 
flowers very broad ; flower-stems stout, usually taller than the 
leaves ; pedicels inclined to be thick and hairy ; fruit very large, 
oblong, often flattened, conical or square at the end, of a vermiUon 
colour w hich is never very dark ; flesh white, firm, very juicy, sugary^ 




682 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



highly perfumed, and very fine in flavour ; seeds brown, rather 
projecting. This is certainly one of the best of all Strawberries as 
regards quality, and is especially to be recommended for stiff moist 
soils. It would, undoubtedly, be more extensively grown if it were 
hardier, and if its propagation was not rendered tedious and difficult 
from the circumstance of its producing very few runners, and these 
thin and slender ones. 

Carolina Superba Strawberry. — Plant rather vigorous, hairy 
on all its parts ; leaves dark green, shining on the upper surface ; 
leaflets oval, folded or twisted, often spoon-shaped ; flowers medium- 
sized, numerous ; flower-stems rather stout, but scarcely taller than 
the leaves ; fruit large, heart-shaped, short, and vermilion colour ; 
flesh very white, melting, buttery, perfumed, slightly musky ; seeds 



half-projecting. A very good and rather productive, but somewhat 
tender variety. Fruit ripens mid-season. Although coming near 
the British Queen Strawberry in other respects, this variety differs 
from it in producing stout, thick, hairy runners. These are not 
very numerous, and we have sometimes seen them flower in the 
same year, but such an occurrence is exceptional. 

Centenary Strawberry. — A strong, vigorous plant ; leaves 
broad, long stalked ; flowers large, white, borne on very long stems. 
Fruit large, oblong, bluntly pointed, often cock's-comb shaped. A 
thick, well-coloured, glistening fruit with deeply sunk seeds ; flesh 
pink, juicy and of good quality ; ripens mid-season. Its chief 
merit is that with no special care it can produce as large and as 
beautiful fruit as those obtained at much expense with General 
Chanzy and other sorts famous for their great size. It therefore 




British Queen Strawberry 
(natural size). 



Carolina Superba Strawberry 
(natural size). 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 



683 




suits the private grower 
as well as the market 
garden. 

Crescent Seedling 
Strawberry. — A fairly 
vigorous plant, bushy, 
dwarf; leaves dark 
green, with narrow leaf- 
lets; flower-stems nume- 
rous, short and slender, 
bearing numerous small 
flowers opening very 
early. Fruit abundant, 
medium - sized, heart- 
shaped, of a glistening 
red colour ; flesh red, 
acidulated and per- 
fumed. This kind may 
be classed among the 
earliest varieties, equal- 
ling in this respect the 
May Queen Strawberry, 
than which it produces 
larger fruit and for a 
longer time. 

Docteur Morere 
Strawberry. — A very 
vigorous variety. Leaf-stalks and flower-stems rather hairy; leaves 
large, broad, and very dark green ; leaflets broad, almost always 
folded on the midrib, slightly puckered and twisted, and with very 

large, rather deep and sharp 
teeth ; flowers large, rather 
numerous ; calyx very large ; 
flower-stems stout, erect, often 
leafy. Fruit very large, short, 
very deep red when ripe, and 
rapidly diminishing in size ; flesh 
pink, melting, sugary, juicy, and 
rather perfumed,butoften hollow 
at the centre ; seeds black and 
rather projecting. The flavour 
of the fruit somewhat resembles 
that of the Chili Strawberry. 
This variety is grown on a large 
scale in the neighbourhood of 
Docteur Morere Strawberry (natural size). Paris for market supply. 



Centenary Strawberry. 




684 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Docteur Veillard Strawberry. — A medium-sized plant, with 

light foliage ; leaf-stalks 
slightly hairy ; leaflets 
large, oval, broad, much 
toothed ; flower-stems 
stout, very branching, 
trailing ; flowers medium- 
sized. Fruit fairly large, 
rounded or oblong, not 
very abundant ; flesh red, 
perfumed, but pasty. A 
half-early variety. 

Due de Malakoff 
Strawberry. — Plant ex- 
ceedingly vigorous, with 
large broad leaves of a 
deep, almost blackish 
green ; leaflets oval, 
rounded, with very large 
short teeth ; leaf-stalk, 
flower-stems, and runners 
very hairy, and often 
tinged with red ; flowers 
large, pure white ; flower- 
stems stout but inclined 
short ; fruit large and short, and of a peculiar brown tint 
ripe ; flesh yellow, something like the colour of the flesh 
apricot, juicy, melting, and with somewhat of the flavour 
This is a very 




Docteur Veillard Strawberry. 



to be 
when 
of an 

of the Chili Strawberry, 
productive and very hardy variety, and 
ripens mid-season. 

Edouard Lefort Strawberry. — A 

new and very distinct variet}', shaped 
liked the Hautbois Strawberry — a shape 
rarely seen in hybrid Strawberries. 
Plant vigorous, leaves numerous, up- 
right ; leaflets large, long, dark green, 
borne on hairy stalks ; flower-stems tall 
and stout ; fruit round at the end and 
tapering at the base, where it forms a 
neck bare of seeds for one-third the 
length of the fruit. The fruit is scarlet 
changing to dark blood-red. The flesh 
is red all through, and in this re- 
spect it differs from the Two-coloured 
Strawberry and the Deutsche Kronprinzessin, the only two 




Due de MalakoS" Strawberry 
(natural size). 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 



685 



other long-necked varieties known to us, for both of these have 
white-fleshed fruit. 

General Chanzy Strawberry. — Plant very vigorous ; leaves 
large and dark green ; leaf-stalks covered with an abundance 
of long hairs ; flower-stems stout, erect, taller than the leaves, or 
partially so ; fruit generally very large and long, narrowed at both 
ends, sometimes hollow at the centre, and of exceedingly dark 
red colour, which becomes nearly black when the fruit is fully ripe ; 
flesh blood-red throughout, sugary, vinous, and sometimes per- 
fumed to a surprising de- 
gree. This variety ripens 
rather late and continues 
bearing for a considerable 
time. 

Jucunda Strawberry. 

— Plant very vigorous and 
thick-set ; leaf-stalks tall ; 
leaves medium-sized, light 
green, almost glazed ; 
leaflets nearly round, with 
short and rather round 
teeth and well-marked 
veins ; flowers medium- 
sized, very numerous ; 
flower-stems stout, erect, 
often leafy, always very 
branching, and taller than 
the leaves ; fruit very 
abundant, heart-shaped, 
of a bright vermilion-red 
colour, becoming darker 
when over-ripe, and some- 
times slightly hollow at 
the centre ; flesh red, 
juicy, rather perfumed, 
and not very sugary ; 
seeds yellow, almost entirely projecting. Ripens half-late. The 
vigour and hardiness of this variety, the abundance of its fruit, 
their fine colour, and their capability of bearing carriage without 
injury, render it one of the most valuable kinds of Strawberries for 
market-gardens near large towns. It is in full bearing when the 
early kinds are on the decline. 

La Constante Strawberry.— Plant of compact, thick-set 
growth ; leaves short stalked ; leaflets small, nearly round, dark, 
rather glaucous green, with large teeth, usually few in number, 
but long and sharp ; flowers very numerous, small, greenish white ; 




Edouard Lefort Strawberry. 



686 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




flower-stems branching, but very short, and almost hidden by the 

leaves. Fruit large, conical, rather short, 
and a rather deep scarlet colour when 
fully ripe ; flesh pink or pale red, delicate 
in flavour, juicy, perfumed, and slightly 
deficient in sugar; seeds black, not deeply 
sunk. This variety is very highly to be 
recommended, as be- 
ing productive, a very 
regular cropper, and 
taking up but little 




room. 

Le 
berry.— 

variety, 
prolific ; 



Jucunda Strawberry 
(natural size). 



La Constante Strawberry 
(natural size). 



Czar Straw- 

-A mid-season 
vigorous and 
bushy, with 
large and rather 
twisted leaves ; leaf- 
stalks long, red, and 



III 



I 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 



687 



slightly hairy ; leaflets rounded ; flower-stems stout, and rather 
short, bearing large, erect flowers. Fruit very large, egg-shaped, 
long and pointed, tapering and bare of seeds at the neck, of a 
glistening dark red colour, with seeds deeply sunk ; flesh intense 
red, sometimes hollow at 

the centre, juicy and ■ — \ ^ ^ 
agreeable. Is much liable 
to suffer from drought, 
and when the needed 
moisture is not provided, 
the setting of the fruit, 
as also their size and 
good shape, is seriously 
endangered. 

Louis Gau thier 
Strawberry. — A tall, 
robust, and leafy plant ; 
leaf-stalks long, slender 
and slightly hairy; leaflets 
small, much rounded, 
bluntly toothed, and a 
shining dark green ; 
flower - stems numerous, 
stout, long, erect or re- 
cumbent, bearing large 
flowers with rather twisted 
petals. Fruit very 
abundant, medium - sized 
or large, globe-shaped, or 
slightly flattened at the 
stem end, very regular in 
shape ; seeds brown, half 
projecting, contrasting 
with the rosy white colour 
of the fruit ; flesh, juicy, 
sugary, perfumed, and 
very good in quality. 
Half- early. Announced 
at first as a Large-fruited 
Perpetual Strawberry, it 
is not exactly that, for 
the second crop is only 
on the young runners in the autumn and is dependent on the 
season and cultivation. For productiveness, regular shape, and 
exquisite flavour it is among the best garden Strawberries, although 
the pale colour of the fruit may not appeal to every one. 




Le Czar Strawberry. 



688 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Louis Vilmorin Strawberry. — Plant rather low and of medium 
vigour ; leaflets oval rounded, shining green, with very large, 
rather blunt teeth ; flowers broad, pure white ; flower-stems very 
short and much branched, the branches often tinged with red and 
partially hidden by the leaves. Fruit heart-shaped, very regular, 
numerous, and very dark red in colour when ripe ; flesh dark red, not 
very sugary, and somewhat deficient in delicacy of flavour and 
perfume, but very firm, juicy, and agreeable. A very hardy variety, 
bearing abundantly and long, and remarkable for the deep red 
colour of the fruit. Its runners are rather scantily produced, which 
hinders the speedy multiplication of the plant. It and the 



American variety named Wilson's Albany are the best two kinds 
for preserving ; the preserves which are made of them having more 
flavour and a better colour than those made of any other Straw- 
berries, even of those which are the best for eating uncooked. 

Lucas Strawberry. — Plant vigorous, second-early ; leaves 
rather large, light green, shining on the surface ; leaflets slightly 
oval, with very large, rather long teeth, which are sometimes very 
acute, and sometimes quite round ; flowers medium-sized, with 
round petals, and very numerous ; flower-stems stout but short, 
often hidden by the leaves. Fruit large, oblong, well-shaped, and 
rather dark scarlet in colour ; flesh pale pink, juicy, sugary, and 
highly perfumed. A variety both productive and of the very 
highest quality. 

Madame Mesle Strawberry. — Plant not very tall, but vigorous; 
leaf-stalks short, spreading, very hairy ; leaflets large, rounded, 
undulating, deeply toothed ; runners tinged red. FVuit very large, 
oblong, short, tapering, bare of seeds at the neck, of a beautiful 
brilliant vermilion-red ; seeds half sunk ; flesh pink, of excellent 




Louis Vilmorin Strawberry. 



Lucas Strawberry. 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 689 



quality. Ripens half-early. The result of a cross between General 
Chanzy and Dr. Morere, it has inherited the delicate flavour of the 
latter, while it has the shape of the former. Great productiveness 
and larc^e fruit give it a first place among those varieties suitable 
for field culture. 

Marguerite Strawberry. — Plant medium-sized ; leaf-stalks 
rather short and slender ; leaflets long in comparison with their 
breadth, light green, very smooth on the upper surface, and with 
rather large sharp teeth on the margin of the upper half only of 
the leaflet ; flowers medium-sized ; flower-stems short, extremely 
branching, and almost trailing. Fruit very large, long, conical in 




Madame Mesle Strawberry. Marguerite Strawberry. 



shape, and vermilion-red in colour, even when the fruit is ripe ; 
flesh pink, very juicy, melting, slightly deficient in sugar and 
perfume ; seeds rather deep. A very productive, extremely early, 
long-bearing, good forcing Strawberry. 

May Queen Strawberry. — Plant of medium vigour of growth, 
leafy, very like the Scarlet Virginia Strawberry in habit ; leaf-stalks 
nearly smooth ; leaflets of a very long oval shape, sharply toothed 
on the upper two-thirds of the margin ; flowers medium-sized or 
small ; flower-stems very branching, short, seldom rising above 
the leaves. Fruit medium-sized or small, short, blunt, rounded, 
and scarlet-red ; flesh pink or pale red, acidulated, perfumed, and 
rather sugary ; seeds deeply sunk. The fruit is very agreeable 
to the taste, especially as it ripens in the latter end of May 

44 



690 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



before any other Strawberry, thus redeeming its sole defect of 
smallness. 

Napoleon III. Strawberry. — Plant vigorous, with large, erect, 
dark green, shining leaves ; leaf-stalks very hairy ; leaflets large, 
nearly round, with broad, blunt teeth ; flowers medium-sized, 
very round, in crowded clusters ; flower-stems stout, leafy, rising 
well above the foliage. Fruit large, rather short, and vermilion-red ; 
flesh very white, melting, well perfumed in warm seasons, sometimes 
a little hollow at the centre ; seeds black, projecting. A hardy and 
productive variety, but ripening late, and liable to suffer much 
in dry seasons. 

Laxton's Noble Strawberry.— Plant vigorous, with large, broad 
leaves borne on slender stalks ; flower-stalks numerous, very branch- 
ing. Fruit abundant, spherical, or shortly conical, and a glistening 




May Queen Strawberry. Napoleon III. Strawberry. Laxton's Noble Strawberry. 



scarlet ; flesh red, juicy, sugary, perfumed, and agreeably acid. 
Excellent in quality, it is undoubtedly one of the most interest- 
ing varieties, not only for the garden, but also for the market, for, 
besides being as early, it is also very productive, and yields as fine 
fruit as the mid-season varieties. 

June Peach Strawberry.— A rather bushy plant, with reddish, 
short, hairy leaf-stalks ; leaflets rounded, slightly toothed, veined, 
dark green ; flower-stems short, slender, very branching ; flowers 
pretty large. F'ruit conical, pale red ; seeds deeply sunk ; flesh 
pink, juicy, mellow, and perfumed. Ripens very late. Its chief 
merit is the high quality of its fruit, at a time, moreover, when 
the other sorts begin to lose in size and flavour. 

President Carnot. — Plant of medium size ; leaf-stalks long,, 
strong, hairy, green ; leaflets oval, slightly toothed, often folded ; 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 



691 



flower - stems erect; 
flowers large, yellowish ' 
white petals, united at 
the base. Fruit a good 
size, oblong or globe, 
often cock's-comb 
shaped ; not much 
coloured, hairy ; flesh 
pink, sometimes hollow, 
pasty, but firm. Ripens 
mid-season. A very 
productive, but not much 
grown variety. 

Princesse Royale 
Strawberry. — One of 
the oldest varieties raised 
in France. Plant of 
medium height, but very 
vigorous and robust ; 
leaves smooth, shining, 
and clear green ; leaflets 
long oval, with rather 
sharp teeth at some dis- 
tance from the base ; 
flowers very small, but 
very numerous ; flower- 
stems stout, very branch- 
ing, some of them taller 
conical, generally 
perfumed, rather 




Tune Peach Strawberry. 




Frincesse Royale 
Strawberry. 



than the leaves. Fruit very numerous, 
well shaped, and of a fine red colour ; flesh 
sugary and juicy, but somewhat hard in the 
centre. A very hardy, productive, and early 
variety. The fruit bears carriage well, and this, 
added to its other good qualities, accounts for 
the tenacity with which .the Parisian market- 
gardeners have adhered to its culture, notwith- 
standing the introduction of new kinds superior 
to it in some respects. In the Central Market 
at Paris, the fruit of this Strawberry always 
command a higher price than those of any 
other varieties, except, perhaps, some choice 
kinds. They are especially esteemed for their 
fine colour and perfume. 

King of the Earlies Strawberry. — Plant 
fairly vigorous, foliage light, pale green ; leaflets 
much toothed ; flower-stems numerous, slender ; 
flowers large, and opening early. Fruit rather 



692 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



large, globe-shaped or oblong, well coloured ; half-early. This 
variety ripens at about the same time as May Queen, but bears 
larger fruit, resembling those of Vicomtesse 
Hericart de Thury. It is less vigorous and 
productive than most other very early sorts, 
and although raised a good many years ago, 
is little cultivated, at least in the vicinity of 
Paris. 

Richard Gilbert Strawberry. — A robust 
plant, with shining, dark green, puckered leaves; 
leaf-stalks long, thin, green, and hairy ; leaflets 
oval, toothed ; flower-stems erect ; flowers large, 
with broad petals covering each other. Fruit 
conical, flat, or broadened out into a cock's- 
comb when large ; light red in colour ; seeds 
yellow, well sunk ; flesh firm, pink, juicy, 
rather acid, and very fragrant. Ripens late, 
and, being very productive, may be recommended for field 
culture ; possesses also the merit of keeping long unpicked, and 
bearing handling and carriage well. 
Royal Sovereign 




King of the Earlies 
Strawberry. 



Strawberry. 

sized plant, 
bushy, rather 
very vigorous ; 



-Medium- 
not very 
flat, but 
leaf-stalks 



long, very thin, hairy, 
slightly tinged pink ; 
leaflets small, oval ; run- 
ners very red ; flower- 
stems stout and numerous, 
erect or recumbent ; 
flowers large. Fruit 
abundant, large, oblong or 
flattened, bright scarlet- 
red ; seeds yellow and 
prominent ; flesh pink, 
juicy, acid ; ripens very 
early. Much esteemed in 
England for garden culture 
as well as for forcing ; in 
France it is hardy and 
productive, but very little 
grown, at least under 
glass. 




Richard Gilbert Strawberry. 



Sabreur Strawberry. — A very distinct variety, easily known 
from all others by its violet-coloured runners and leaf-stalks. 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 



693 



Leaflets very long, with 
very large and deeply 
cut teeth ; in colour a 
rather dark glaucous- 
green. The divisions of 
the calyx are deeply 
coloured, like the leaf- 
stalks. The flowers when 
about to fall change to 
red. Fruit ovoid, almost 
always regularly shaped, 
large, often very large, 
and of a crimson colour 
more or less deep accord- 
ing to the temperature 
of the season ; flesh 
white, sugary, juicy, and 
rather perfumed ; seeds 
very black and very 
prominent, giving the 
fruit a quite peculiar 
appearance. This variety 
is certainly one of the 
best that has been raised 
of late years. It does 
not produce fruit of the 
first quality, but it is early, hardy, highly productive, and con- 
tinues bearing for a long time, being one of the earliest when 
it commences to yield and found still fruiting amongst the latest 
kinds. The runners are very abundant, and 
the variety is, consequently, one of the easiest 
to multiply. 

Sensation Strawberry. — A vigorous and 
early variety ; leaves broad, dark green ; leaf- 
stalks short, thin, green ; leaflets long oval, 
spoon-shaped, sharply toothed ; flower-stems 
numerous, erect or recumbent ; flowers of 
medium size, white, slightly yellow. Fruit 
abundant, medium-sized or large, oblong, 
blunt, a shining dark red when completely 
ripe ; seeds yellow, prominent ; flesh tender, 
pink, not very juicy, but perfumed and very 
good in flavour. Size is its principal merit, 
and the finest fruit is usually got from one- 
year-old plants, therefore replant at frequent 
intervals. 




Royal Sovereign Strawberry, 




Sabreur Strawbe 



rry. 



694 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Sharpless Strawberry. — A vigorous plant, with erect leaves ; 
leaf-stalks thin, green, and slightly hairy, leaflets rounded, sharply 
toothed ; flower-stems short, stout, erect ; flowers borne on long 
pedicels, very open and large, with petals united at the base. Fruit 
abundant, medium in size or large, short, often irregular in shape ; 
flesh pink or red, juicy, but not very fragrant. Ripens early. Defec- 
tive in shape and rather 
indifferent in quality, 
this variety is still much 
grown around Paris be- 
cause of its hardiness and 
great productiveness. 

Sir Joseph Paxton 
Strawberry. — Plant of 
medium vigour ; runners 
slightly hairy; leaf-stalks 
and flower-stems rather 
leaves fairly 
numerous, and dark 




Sensation Strawberry. 



Sir Joseph Paxton Strawberry 
(natural size). 



shining green ; leaflets large, oval, often puckered or twisted, and 
with large and rather deeply cut teeth ; flowers broad, numerous, 
pure white ; flower-stems moderately stout, and not always taller 
than the leaves ; fruit conical or heart-shaped, well formed, and 
rather dark scarlet in colour. One of the best and handsomest 
of all Strawberries, and very productive. Ripens mid-season. In 
England this variety is more largely cultivated than any other 
by market growers. It is valued for its fine colour, large size, and 
firm flesh, which enables it to bear carriage well. 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 



695 



Souvenir de Bossuet Strawberry. — A low, almost dwarf plant, 
with dense foliage ; leaf-stalks short, green, hairy ; leaflets broad, 
rounded, veined, and slightly toothed ; flower-stems short, flowers 
fairly large. Fruit abundant, large, heart-shaped, a beautiful 
bright red, turning to very dark red at complete maturity ; seeds 
brown, half-sunken ; flesh pale red, very juicy, sugary, agreeably 




Souvenir de Bossuet Strawberry Thury Strawberry. 



acidulated. A very productive variety, its abundant foliage 
effectively protecting the fruit against the midday sun, but soon 
exhausted and producing in the end only small fruit. 

Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury Strawberry. — Plant vigorous, 
not very tall, but leafy, erect, and dark green, indicating a robust 
constitution ; leaflets oval, often narrow at the base, which is with- 
out teeth, the rest of the margin bearing rather deep, large, and 
usually rounded teeth; flowers medium-sized or small; flower-stems 



696 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Victoria Strawberry. 

rising well above the 
slightly heart-shaped, 



stout, very branching, and generally taller than the leaves. Fruit 
conical or heart-shaped, and very dark red ; flesh red, very firm, 
sugary, juicy, sub-acid, and well perfumed ; seeds half-projecting. 
The fruit of this variety bears carriage well. It ripens early, and is 

produced very abundantly and for a 
long time. It is, consequently, grown 
on a large scale for market supply, not 
only in France, but also in England, 
and is a very suitable kind for forcing. 
The plant is one of those varieties from 
which, under proper treatment, a second 
crop may be most readily obtained in 
autumn 

Victoria Strawberry. — A strong, 
vigorous plant, forming broad dense 
tufts ; leaflets very broad, nearly round, 
with very large, very blunt teeth, and 
of a rather dark, shining green colour ; 
flowers numerous, medium-sized ; flower- 
stems long, stout, very branching, and 
leaves. Fruit large, very short, roundish, or 
of a pale vermilion-red, and with a very 
delicate skin ; flesh pink, exceedingly juicy and melting, and fairly 
sugary and perfumed ; seeds very deeply sunk. Though the fruit 
bears carriage badly, and does not keep well, it is pretty largely 
grown for the Central Market at Paris, on account of its earliness 
and its very great and long-continued 
productiveness. It is especially suitable 
for private kitchen-gardens. 

Wonderful, or Myatt's Prolific, 
Strawberry. — Plant vigorous and of 
medium height ; leaves numerous ; leaf- 
stalks slender, rather hairy ; leaflets 
medium-sized, nearly round, and a clear, 
slightly gray -green colour ; flowers 
medium-sized, very numerous ; flower- 
stems very stout and very branching, 
not always rising clearly above the leaves. 
Fruit longjUsually flattened, almost always 
square at the end, and very dark crimson 
in colour ; flesh white, very firm, juicy, 
very sugary, and highly perfumed ; seeds 
black, small, projecting, and very numerous. A mid-season and 
very productive variety, continuing to bear for a long time, uniting 
great productiveness with good quality ; but, owing to the rather 
dark colour of the fruit, not much in request in the markets. 




Wonderful (Myati s Prolific) 
Strawberrv\ 



HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 



697 



Like all other fruit-bearing plants, the Strawberry has been the 
parent of so many varieties that it would be almost impossible to 
enumerate them all. Besides which, there are special works on this 
subject which treat of it far more fully than we could possibly do. 
We shall, therefore, in addition to the kinds already described, 
only mention some other varieties not yet very well known, but 
remarkable for their excellent qualities, some of which are employed 
for special purposes. 

Admiral Dundas. — Plant vigorous, ripening late ; fruit 
numerous, conical, dark red ; flesh pinkish white, firm, sugary. 
A variety for the student rather than market uses. 



Admiral Dundas Strawberry. Belle de Paris Strawberry. The Captain Strawbern,'. 

Belle de Paris. — A very hardy and very productive variety. 
Fruit conical, large, bright red, ripening somewhat late ; flesh white 
or red, sugary, and rather firm. 

Black Prince. — Fruit small, round, becoming almost black when 
ripe. This is one of the earliest of all the Hybrid Strawberries. 

The Captain. — A vigorous plant, with large, conical fruit, of a 
fine shining red ; flesh pinkish white, fine and sugary. Produces 
but very few runners, and therefore very slow to increase. 

Commander. — Flower-stems long and erect ; fruit abundant, 
long shaped, scarlet, hairy ; flesh firm, pink, juicy. 

Comte de Paris. — An old French variety with handsome heart- 
shaped fruit of a dark red colour. Flesh red. A very productive 
kind, and well adapted for field culture. 

Dr. Hogg. — Very much like the British Queen in habit of 
growth, but with larger fruit, of a fine scarlet red ; flesh very solid, 
pinkish white, juicy, delicately fragrant. 

Dr. Nicaise.— Remarkable for size rather than quality of fruit ; 
flesh pale red. 




698 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Duke of Edinburgh.— Rather vigorous ; fruit conical or heart- 
shaped, a very bright scarlet ; flesh pale red, slightly acid, rather 




Dr. Nicaise Strawberry, Eleanor Strawberry. 



sugary and agreeably perfumed. A half-late variety, producing 
very large and very regularly shaped fruit. 

Duke of Montrose. — A late sort, with pale green leaves and 

erect flower-stems. Fruit 
abundant, rounded or 
oblong ; flesh very firm, 
red and juicy. 

Eleanor. — A late 
variety ; fruit oblong, 
very dark red ; flesh 
pale scarlet, not very 
juicy, but sugary and 
fragrant. 

Elisa. — Fruit 
medium-sized or small, 
of a rather pale vermilion 
red colour ; flesh white. 
Bears for a considerable 
time ; to be recommended 
for stiff soils. 

Elton Improved. — 
Very vigorous, ripens 
late. Fruit heart-shaped, 
dark red, flesh red, 
sugary, juicy, rather 

F.lton Improved Strawberry. SUb-acid. 




HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 



699 



Gloire de Zuidwyck.— A vigorous, productive, mid-early 
variety ; fruit large, conical, deep orange or bright scarlet ; flesh 
orange-coloured. Easily multiplied. Well adapted for market 
supply, its fruit keeping well. 

Hohenzollern.— Plant vigorous, with large round leaves ; fruit 
numerous ; top-shaped, sometimes irregular, of a slightly coppery 
red colour ; ripens late ; flesh dark red, very juicy, but not very 
sugary. 

Kaiser Nikolas von Russland. — A vigorous plant, with large 
leaves and large flowers. Fruit very numerous, heart-shaped, with 
sometimes the end remaining green ; flesh white, not very juicy, 
but perfumed. Very productive. 

Keen's Seedling. — A very good old variety. Fruit medium- 




Gloire de Zuidwyck Strawberry. Strawberry, La Chalonnaise Strawberry. 



Koenig' Albert. — A compact, vigorous, very productive kind. 
Fruit medium-sized or large, very short, flattened, light red ; 
flesh very tender, juicy and sugary. Its runners produce some- 
times a second crop. The fruit travels badly, and is easily 
injured. 

La Chalonnaise. — Fruit highly perfumed and delicate ; 
flesh white. One of the best Strawberries grown, but rather 
delicate. 

La Grosse Sucree. — Plant of thick-set growth, hardy, and 
vigorous, bearing rather abundantly and half-late ; fruit large, of 
an elongated heart-shape, and of a bright shining red colour ; 
flesh pinkish white, very melting, abundantly juic>; and very 
sugary. 

Latest of All.— Very late, ripening only in July. Fruit 
pretty large, oblong or knobby, not much coloured, green at 



700 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



the end ; flesh very firm, pink, juicy, and of good quality. In 
hot weather the fruit harden, become sour or are spoilt by 
mildew. 

Leader. — A bushy, vigorous plant. Fruit very numerous, 
ripening late, large, oblong, hairy, rather soft ; flesh not very juicy, 
acid, with a thick core. 

Petit Pierre. — Very productive, ripening mid-season. Fruit 

medium-sized or small, 
but very numerous, long 
conical, lustrous, firm ; 
flesh very red, juicy, 
and of excellent 
quality. 

Princess Dagmar. 
— A tall, vigorous plant, 
flower-stems rising well 
above the foliage. 
Fruit fairly abundant, 
medium - sized, oblong, 
blunt, deep red, very 
firm, ripening late and 
in succession; flesh pink, 
juicy, sub-acid, but of 
good quality. 

Sir Charles Napier. 
— A very fine fruit, often 
flattened and broadened 
into cock's-comb shape; 
flesh firm, pink ; a very 
good, vigorous kind, 
ripening in mid-season, 
often grown for the 
market. 

Sir Harry. — A very 
fine variety, and really 
very rare, although many 
think they have it. 
i> Wiid^^w^-'^^--^^^^:,^ ' ' Fruit large, heart- 

Princess Dagmar Strawberry. shaped, and of a bright 

red colour ; flesh solid, 
juicy, sugary, and of a pale pink colour. Ripens half-late. 
This variety does not continue bearing long, and produces few 
runners. 

Weisse Dame. — Low growing, with large leaves, pretty early, 
producing sometimes an abundance of oblong pink fruit ; flesh 
tender, juicy, and very sugary. 




LARGE-FRUITED PERPETUAL STRAWBERRIES 701 



LARGE-FRUITED PERPETUAL STRAWBERRIES 

Fraisiers remontants a gros fruits. 

Many years ago a cross made between some Pine-apple Straw- 
berries produced a variety called " Bon Henry," from which kind, 
on being crossed in its turn later on with some large-fruited 
sorts, several new varieties were raised, among which were the 




St. Joseph Strawberry. 



St. Joseph," the first really interesting Large-Fruited Perpetual 
Strawberry, 

St. Joseph Strawberry. — A bushy, rather dwarf, and 
trailing plant ; leaf-stalks short, green, hairy ; leaves rounded, 
with well-defined teeth, bluish, somewhat glaucous green ; flower- 
stems not numerous, developing in succession, short, with medium- 
sized, well-staminated flowers. Fruit medium-sized, heart-shaped ; 
seeds small, numerous ; flesh white, or rosy white, juicy and per- 
fumed. Inferior as it is to many of the hybrid large-fruited sorts, 



702 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



it produces an abundance of fruit during the whole summer up to 

the first frosts, an advan- 
tage which is not to be 
underrated. The fruit, 
if not so large as Dr. 
Morere or Noble, are of 
very fair size, and con- 
siderably larger than the 
finest Alpine Strawberry. 

The varieties Rubi- 
cunda and La Cons tan te 
feconde may be con- 
sidered as altogether 
identical with the St. 
Joseph. 

Jeanne d'Arc Straw- 
berry. — A variety raised 
a little later than St. 
Joseph, somewhat more 
vigorous and with rather 
larger fruit but resemb- 
ling it in all other respects.. 

Saint -Antoine de 
Padoue Strawberry. — 

, " A much more vigorous 

Jeanne d Arc Strawberry . ^ 




Saint-Antoine de Padoue Strawberry, 



LARGE-FRUITED PERPETUAL STRAWBERRIES 703 



variety than the St. Joseph, taller and denser in growth. Leaves 
broad, slightly hairy ; leaflets oval, toothed ; flower-stems tall and 
stiff, flowers large. Fruit large, conical or cock's-comb shaped ; 
seeds yellow, numerous and prominent ; flesh very rosy, juicy and 
sweet. This fine variety is the result of a cross made between 
Royal Sovereign and St. Joseph. It is a more vigorous plant 
and produces larger fruit than the St. Joseph, though perhaps not 
so continuous a bearer, as it has usually ceased to produce by 
the end of July, until 
it starts afresh in the 
second half of September 
or early in October. It 
stands the heat and 
drought much better 
than the St. Joseph. 

La Productive. — 
Plant vigorous, tall ; 
leaves light green ; leaf- 
lets long, toothed, rather 
hairy, and often four 
together on one stalk, 
which is seldom the case 
with the other varieties; 
flowers medium - sized, 
and very early. Fruit, 
large, oblong, blunt, 
bright red, rather hairy; 
seeds projecting, except 
on the neck, which is 
long, smooth, and shin- 
ing ; flesh pink, very 
juicy and very sweet. 
The result of a cross 
between St. Joseph and 
Edouard Lefort, it is in- 
termediate between the 
two. Its fruit is very 
like that of Edouard 
Lefort and its foliage like that of St. Joseph, without the blue 
tinge of the latter, and with the above-mentioned peculiarity of four 
leaflets being often borne on one leaf-stalk, which distinguishes 
it from all other Perpetual Strawberries. It is perpetual like 
the St. Joseph, the runners, almost as soon as fairly started, 
throwing up a flower-stem which bears fruit towards the end of 
summer. The first flowers appear very early in spring, and the 
first fruits ripen with those of the early varieties. 




La Productive Strawberry. 



704 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



TANSY 

Tanacetum vulgar e, L. Composites. 

French, Tanaisie. German, Gemeiner Rainfarn, Wurmkraut. Danish, Reinfang. 
Italian, Atanasia. Stanisk, Tanaceto. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial, — A plant forming a clump of 
very permanent growth. Stems annual, erect, rounded, usually not 
branching, and about 3 ft. high ; leaves oval oblong, but very much 
divided and very deeply cut into narrow segments, which are also 

divided into exceedingly slender toothed 
lobes ; flower-heads small, numerous, 
in compound, terminal, and rather 
crowded corymbs ; florets deep yellow ; 
seeds small, long, almost conical, with 
five prominent grayish ribs. Their 
germinating power lasts for two years. 
Two varieties of this plant are in cul- 
tivation — namely, the Common Tansy, 
which is the same as the wild plant, 
and a curled-leaved variety, the leaves 
of which, in addition to the ordinary 
use, may also be employed for 
garnishing, like those of the Curled 
Mallow. 

Culture. — The Tansy, like the Wormwood, demands no 
cultural care, and a plant or two of it growing in the corner of 
the garden is usually sufficient for all requirements. It is gener- 
ally multiplied by division in spring or autumn. By cutting off 
the flower-heads as they appear, the production of leaves is pro- 
longed in the latter end of summer and in autumn. 

Uses. — The leaves are used for seasoning, etc. 

GOLDEN THISTLE 

Scolymus Jiispanicus, L. CompositCB. 

French, Scolyme d'Espagne. Dutch, Varkens distel. Italian, Barba gentile. Spanish, 

Escolimo. 

Native of Southern Europe. — Biennial. — A plant with a white 
and rather fleshy tap-root. Radical leaves oblong, usually varie- 
gated with pale green on a dark green ground, very spiny, and 
narrowed at the base into the leaf-stalk ; stem very branching, from 
2 to 2 J ft. high, furnished with sessile, decurrent, and very spiny 
leaves ; flowers of bright yellow, in sessile heads of two or three 
flowers each ; seeds flat, yellowish, surrounded by a white scarious 
appendage. Their germinating power lasts for three years. The 
seed is sown in March or April, in well-dug soil, in the same 




Tansy (o-\ natural size). 



GOLDEN THISTLE 



705 



manner as Salsafy, and the plants are afterwards treated in exactly 
the same way as Salsafy-plants. The roots may commence to be 




Golden Thistle. 



taken up for use in September or October, and will continue to 
yield a supply during the winter. The roots are eaten like Salsafy. 
They are often 10 to 12 in. long, and nearly i in. thick. 

TARRAGON 

Artemisia Dracun cuius, L. Compositce. 

French, Estragon. German, Dragon. Flemish and Dutch, Dragonkruid. Danish, 
Estragon. Italian, Dragoncelio. Spanish, Estragon. Portuguese, Estragao. 

Native of Siberia. — Perennial. — A plant with numerous branch- 
ing stems, bearing lanceolate entire leaves, which, like all the green 
parts of the plant, possess a very delicate, aromatic flavour, on 
which account they are very extensively used for seasoning. The 
flowers are white, in no way striking, and always barren, so that 
the plant must be propagated by division of the tufts or from 
root-cuttings. According to old horticultural books, the plant 
formerly produced fertile seeds, and if such was the case, it 
might be hoped that some day such seed may again be 
regularly obtained from it, but at present it does not usually 
produce any, and the seed which is offered for sale from time 
to time only produces plants which resemble the Tarragon in all 
its botanical characteristics {^Artemisia Redowskii\ but entirely 



45 



7o6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



destitute of flavour. The Tarragon-plant flowers frequently, and 
the flowers appear to be well formed. Some fertile seeds might be 
accidentally produced, and if these were carefully gathered and 

sown, a regularly seeding 
variety might be raised ; 
but if from any cause 
there should be a difficulty 
in multiplying Tarragon- 
plants by division, an 
excellent substitute may 
be obtained by growing 
Tagetes lucida^ a Composite 
plant, which, although be- 
longing to a quite different 
genus, possesses in its 
green parts almost exactly 
the sam.e flavour as the 
true Tarragon. 

Culture. — Being a 
perennial, the Tarragon 
requires no particular at- 
tention. It is advisable, 
however, in severe winters without snow, to cut down the stems 
and cover the necks of the plants with a litter of manure or 
withered leaves, as, although originally a native of Siberia, the 
cultivated Tarragon-plant is somewhat liable to suffer in very 
frosty weather. 

COMMON THYME 

Thymus vulgaris, L. Labiates. 

/r<f«^^, Thy m ordinaire. 6'^rw^z;z, Franzosischer Thymian. /7^;;//j^, Thijmus. Dutch, 
Tijm. Danish, Thimian. Italian, Timo. Spanish, Tomillo. Portuguese, Tomilho. 

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — A very small dwarf 
shrub with slender, stiff, branching, woody stems, bearing small 
triangular leaves, more or less deep green in colour on the upper 
surface and gray underneath. Flowers small, labiate, lilac-pink, in 
round or ovoid terminal clusters, which lengthen after flowering. 
The germinating power of the seeds lasts for three years. 

Culture. — Thyme is usually planted as an edging in well- 
drained soil in a warm position. It may be propagated by division 
or cuttings, but is generally raised from seed, which yields vigorous 
plants. The seed is sown in April, either where the plants are to 
stand or in a seed-bed, from which the young plants are planted 
out in June or July, about 4 in. apart. It is advisable to re-make 
Thyme edgings every three or four years. 




Tarragon {\ natural size ; detached leaf, 
natural size). 



COMMON THYME 



707 



Uses. — The leaves and young shoots are very often used for 
seasoning. 

Two varieties of this plant are cultivated, namely, the Narrow- 
leaved, which has small gray leaves and 
is very aromatic ; and the Broad-leaved 
Winter, or German, Thyme, a somewhat 
taller and stronger plant, with larger 
leaves, a little more bitter than the 
other variety. The seed also of the 
Broad-leaved kind is one-third larger. 

Besides these, the Lemon Thyme 
{TJiy7nus citriodorus, Pers.), a small 
under-shrub with trailing branches, the 
native country of which is unknown, 
is sometimes cultivated. Its flavour is 
very delicate and agreeable. Some- 
times, also, especially in country places, 
the Wild Thyme, or Mother-of-Thyme 
{Thymus Serpyllum, L.), is used for seasoning. This is a native 
perennial plant, with a very slender creeping stem, bearing small 
oval-rounded leaves and erect terminal clusters of pink or 
violet-coloured flowers. 




Common Thyme (|- natural size 
detached sprig, \ natural size). 



TOMATO, or LOVE-APPLE 

Lycopersicum escukntum, Mill. ; Solanum Lycopersicum, L. 

Solanacece. 

French, Tomate. German, Tomate. Flemish and Dutch, Tomaat. Italian, Pomodoro. 
Spanish and Portuguese, Tomate. 

Native of South America. — Annual. — The Tomato is a branch- 
ing plant with a flexible stem, requiring artificial support to enable 
it to grow erect. The stem is thick, often woody, swollen, especially 
at the joints, and covered with a green skin which is rough to the 
touch. The leaves are pinnate, with oval-acuminate leaflets, which 
are slightly toothed on the margin, grayish on the under-surface, 
and often spoon-shaped or even with the edges rolled upwards. 
Flowers yellowish, in axillary corymbs ; fruit large fleshy berries, 
variable in shape and colour ; seed white, kidney-shaped, very 
much flattened, and shagreened or rough on both sides. Its 
germinating power lasts for four years. 

Culture. — It is only in the south of Europe that the Tomato 
can be perfectly grown without the aid of artificial heat. In the 
climate of Paris, the seed, for an ordinary or main crop, is generally 
sown in a hot-bed, about the latter end of March. The seedlings 
are pricked out into another hot-bed three weeks or a month after- 
wards, and are finally planted out about the end of May, from 



708 



THE VEGETABLE GARDE 



20 to 32 in. apart, according to the variety. As soon as the plants 
have grown from 16 to 20 in. high, each of them should be sup- 
ported either with a single stake, or with a series of stakes fastened 
together and forming a kind of trellis, upon which the branches of 
the plant are tied. The latest varieties would be all the better for 
being planted at the foot of a wall or other shelter with a warm 
aspect. In these varieties, too, it is advisable to limit the pro- 
duction of the fruit to a certain number by pinching off all the late 
flowers. It is also a good plan, sometimes, to pinch some of the 
shoots ; but that should be done with discretion, so as not to leave 
the plant too bare of leaves. Under this mode of culture, the 
earliest varieties will commence to yield fruit in the course of 
August, and produce them all through the autumn. When frosty 
weather approaches, any fruit that are full-grown but not yet 
coloured may be cut off, branches and all, and stored in a dry 
room, where they will duly ripen. Ripe Tomatoes may be obtained 
as early as the latter end of April by means of forcing. In this 
case the plants are grown entirely in hot-beds. The first sowings 
are made in September, but more usually in January. The 
seedlings are pricked out, and also permanently planted out in 
hot-beds, always under the same conditions, four plants to each 
light. As the plants require a good deal of heat, the beds should 
be surrounded with linings of manure, which can be renewed at 
pleasure. Plants thus formed are usually not allowed to bear more 
than two branches, which are attached horizontally to a wire or a 
strong cord running from one end of the bed to the other, and as 
near the glass as possible. Until the fruit is formed and com- 
mencing to ripen, other plants are usually grown in the hot-beds 
along with the Tomatoes, thus utilising the heat and also the space 
which is not yet filled up by the principal crop. 



In Great Britain of late years the 
culture of Tomatoes has spread very 
much, though far from, as yet, being 
able to meet the demand for the 
fruit. The climate is one of the 
worst possible for Tomatoes, yet, 
notwithstanding, our gardening re- 
sources and skill are such that much 
excellent fruit is grown. To raise 
it, however, is not so simple as in 
America, where over a vast range of 
the continent the Tomato is one 
of the most easily grown field crops. 
Some general idea of the most suc- 
cessful methods pursued in British 
gardens is therefore desirable here. 
Those situated in the southern coun- 



ties of England and Ireland have a 
considerable advantage in Tomato 
culture over those in the north. 
'Mi: Hobday, growing them in a 
by no means favourable district, 
may be taken as a trustworthy 
guide for private garden practice, 
which, however, varies much and 
is improved year by year : 

" Sow the seeds in February or 
early in March in pots or pans ; 
cover lightly with sand or sandy 
soil, and place in a hot-bed near 
the glass. When the young plants 
appear, move them to a warm house, 
where they will be near the glass, 
to get hardened by light and ex- 



OMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 



posure. Pot off d ler singly two 
in a pot, standing at opposite sides 
of the pot, so that when the time 
comes to plant out the ball may be 
divided through the middle, each 
plant taking its share; and but 
little check need be given. After 
the plants are potted off they may 
either be taken back to the hot-bed 
for a few days, or be kept in a 
warm, close house till the roots 
begin work again, when they should 
be moved to a light place, in order 
to give strength. Plants that are 
well cared for in their youth begin 
to blossom and bear fruit weeks 
before those which are dragged up 
in vineries or in situations away 
from the full light, and in our 
short, often sunless, summers this 
is a very important matter. If ne- 
cessary, the plants should be shifted 
on into larger pots, though a very 
little check when they have made 
some progress will do them no 
harm. It will simply have a hard- 
ening effect upon them. As soon 
as the weather is settled in May, or 
say about the third week, plant out. 
In the south of England Tomatoes 
will succeed in any warm position, 
but they cannot have too much heat 
in our climate, and though w^e may 
plant in any warm situation, even 
away from a wall, it must not be 
forgotten that the warmest positions 
at the foot of a south wall are the 
best. 

"That mode of training is the best 
which ensures early ripening rather 
than heavy crops that will not ripen, 
and this early ripening can be best 
attained by confining the growth to 
one or two main stems, and these 
main stems should have been started 
when the plants were young, by 
pinching out the leader. A two- 
stemmed plant will require 2 ft. of 
space or a little more; a plant having 
only one stem will not require more 



than 15 in. As soon as planted, 
and the soil settled round them by 
watering, a tie should be placed to 
each stem. If against a wall, a nail 
and shred may be used, but the 
latter should be placed loosely round 
the stem to allow space for swelling, 
w^hich it will do considerably. If 
planted on the open border, a strong 
stake 4 ft. long should be placed near 
each stem, and a piece of matting 
placed round the stake and fastened 
to it first, and then the stem of the 
plant should be loosely fastened 
also. In the after-training all side 
shoots should be rubbed off as they 
appear (this will involve weekly at- 
tention), and all the strength of the 
plant directed upwards into the 
main stem. Sometimes the leaders 
are pinched when the first cluster 
of flowers appears. This throws 
strength into the blossoms and the 
next shoot, which breaks away from 
the leader and grows on till another 
cluster of blossoms is put forth, 
when another pinching of the leader 
takes place, and so on, a check to 
growth being given as each cluster 
of fruit is formed. I do not think it 
really matters much whether these 
pinchings or checks are given or 
not, for I have proved that a plant 
which is allowed to grow straight 
onw^ards, unstopped, will bear as 
much fruit as the one that is pinched. 
All that is gained by the pinching 
is the confining of the growth to a 
smaller space, and if the wall or the 
fence on which the plants are to 
be trained is a very low one, then 
pinching may be useful, but other- 
wise it is not of much value. 
Beyond the pinching and training 
the summer culture is almost 
nothing. Weeds, of course, must 
be kept down, and if the summer 
should be hot and dry, mulching 
and watering may be beneficial. In 
cold, wet districts the plants must 



710 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



occupy a south wall, and, if possible, 
lay a mound of soil (the sweepings 
of the potting-shed, or the old soil 
saved from the renovation or re- 
newal of Vine or Peach borders 
will do) against the foot of the wall, 
and plant in the mound. When 
the fruits are swelling rapidly and 
approaching the ripening stage, 
gradually remove a few of the 
leaves to let in the sunshine, and 
in autumn, when frost is expected, 
the late fruits will ripen off if 
gathered and placed in a warm 
kitchen, or in a warm position 
anywhere. 

" Under Glass. — Given a light 
house and a night temperature of 
60° and the Tomato may be had 
all the year round. In the open 
air, in many places, it is a pre- 
carious crop. Very frequently the 
fruits refuse to ripen, and when they 
get the colour they lack the flavour 
of the fruits grown and ripened 
under glass ; and very often, too, 
the fruits fall a prey to a disease 
not unhke in character and appear- 
ance to the disease which causes 
such destruction to its relative, the 
Potato. Under glass I have had 
one set of plants go through the 
year without renewal ; but young 
plants should be raised at least 
every year, as young plants produce 
the finest fruit, and they are so 
easily raised that there is nothing 
gained by a prolongation beyond 
a year. The plants may be raised 
from seeds, but I like cuttings best, 
as I think they come into bearing 
earlier, and the plants are so healthy 
and strong in both cases that one 
need not consider the question as to 
whether we lose or gain in vigour. 
The seedlings are sometimes over- 
vigorous, and require curtailment at 
the roots in order to moderate their 
exuberance. The best time to take 
cuttings is in summer, say in August, 



and they will strike anywhere — in a 
shady place, in a frame, or under 
a hand-light best, or on the shelf in 
the greenhouse — in fact, anywhere. 
They are best put into single pots 
of small size, and shifted into larger 
pots as required, until the time comes 
to plant them out. If struck early in 
August and grown on steadily, they 
may be brought to a fruiting con- 
dition in pots, and be transferred to 
the Tomato-house in time to begin 
bearing early in spring, when fruits 
are most valuable ; so that really 
there need not be any break in the 
crop, as the crop in possession of 
the house will go on bearing till 
the time of its removal, if carefully 
managed. To do them justice they 
must have 

'A Light House. — It may either 
be span-roofed or a lean-to, but it 
cannot be too light. In either case 
it should be wired, the wires being 
about as close to each other as would 
be necessary for vines, and about 
9 in. from the glass. The provision 
for the roots may consist of narrow 
brick pits, or boxes, or large pots. 
Where convenient, I think the 
narrow pits are best, but they need 
not be more than 18 in. wide, and 
2 ft. in depth. Place 6 in. of drain- 
age in the bottom, fill it with turfy 
loam, inclined to be rather sandy 
than heavy, and top-dress when 
necessary, giving manure -water if it 
should be needful to sw^ell off a crop 
readily. 

" The best way to train is to pinch 
out the leader when the stems are 
6 in. high, and from the shoots 
which break away train up two. 
These will form the main fruiting 
stems, and should be trained up the 
roof, 15 in. apart. All side shoots 
should be rubbed off, and when the 
first cluster of flowers show, pinch 
out the leader, Select the next 
leader which breaks away, and nip 



TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 



711 



j out the point of that also when a 
i truss of blossoms has been evolved, 
I and so on till the shoot reaches the 
I. top of the house. The close pinching 
I must be persisted in to throw the 
I strength into the plant ; and a few 
of the main leaves may be removed 
when the fruit begins to ripen, to 
let in the sun to colour them. As 
the bottom fruit begin to ripen and 
] are taken off for use, a shoot here 
■ and there may be permitted to grow, 
and these in turn will develop 
blossoms, when, if the same pinching 
process be adopted, a successional 
crop will be started which will 
prolong the season." * 

Tomatoes without Manure. — 
Mr. Muir is inclined to think we 
j use too much manure in the case of 
f Tomatoes. " Almost every one who 
has anything to say on the culture 
recommends at least one part of the 
compost to be manure from the 
stable or cowshed, and plenty of 
plants, and fruit too, are produced 
under this treatment, but it must be 
owned that there is also a great deal 
j of superfluous wood, and fruits in 
) many instances are often neither so 
perfect in form, large in size, nor so 
numerous as they might have been. 
Three parts of the time spent in 
cultivating Tomatoes are often 
devoted to cutting back and thinning 
out the shoots, work which surely 
could not be over and above good 
for the plants. The majority of 
Tomatoes make a great deal of un- 
necessary wood before any fruits 
are formed, and many of them grow 
so freely that they do not fruit until 
their feeding supplies have become 
somewhat exhausted. My idea of 
a good bearing Tomato-plant is one 
which begins to fruit about 10 in. 
from the ground, and continues to 
bear closely as far up as the culti- 
vator chooses to lead the main stems. 
The fruit should be numerous, and 

* Defoliating Tomatoes, see p. 773 
Tomato Diseases, see pp. 780, 781. 



the superfluous growths in no way 
predominating. It is, however, a 
difficult matter to have Tomatoes 
in this condition where much 
manure is used, as the manure has 
a tendency to induce the plants to 
make wood rather than fruit. For 
some years we have been using less 
and less manure in Tomato growing, 
and in several instances we have 
dispensed with it altogether, and 
found the crops to be altogether 
more satisfactory than hitherto. 
The growths were short and robust, 
and the fruit formed in large quan- 
tities and swelled off and coloured 
beautifully. Early in summer we 
are in the habit of planting a 
Tomato here and there along the 
walls wherever a small vacancy 
occurs, and before planting we used 
to fork in a quantity of manure to 
assist them, but now no manure is 
employed, and the crops are good. 
The very poorest of soil without any 
manure might not answer, but or- 
dinary potting turf will be found to 
grow them to the highest state of 
perfection." 

Mr. Muir holds that, even in 
England and Wales, "Tomatoes, 
when properly managed, are far 
more prolific in the open air than 
under glass. They begin to bloom 
and fruit almost at the ground, and 
the stems throw out bunches of 
flowers every few inches and yield 
very fine crops. On some of our 
clusters we have counted as many 
as twenty, and where they were 
thinned out to single fruits, some 
have weighed 14 ounces each. The 
flavour, too, of those grown and 
ripened during the harvest time is 
much superior to that of those 
ripened under glass, especially in 
a close atmosphere. In short, open- 
air Tomatoes are so good and easily 
produced, that I would advise all 
who have a wall with any vacant 
Tomatoes for Winter use, see p. 774. 



712 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



spots on it to fill them up with this 
esculent. During May is the best 
time to plant. They may be grown 
and hardened off along with the 
bedding Pelargoniums, and be 
planted out at the same time. 
Many who know them to be gross 
feeders think they are doing right 
in giving them a rich mixture to 
root into ; but that is a mistake. 
The harder and dwarfer the shoots 
are the better. When grown in poor 
soil they flower profusely, and be- 
come most prolific. As soon as 
plenty of fruits have been formed — 
as form they undoubtedly will on all 
plants grown in nothing but pure 
loam — supply them with doses of 
liquid manure. Pick off all young 
shoots as they form, and a heavy 
crop will be the result. Wherever 
we have a bare strip on any part of 
our walls — and these occur often be- 
tween trees — we fork in a few shovel- 
fuls of chopped-up turf, and in this 
plant Tomatoes. Many of the plants 
are pruned in to one stem only, and 
none of them are allowed to have 
more than two ; in fact, it is cordons 
and not bushes on which we depend 
for a profitable crop. When in poor 
soil, they do not make side shoots 
rapidly, but they should be looked 
over frequently to take these off and 
to nail up the main stem." 

In all the colder parts of these 
islands, and where Tomatoes do not 
thrive in the open air, we have a 
great, but often neglected, sub- 
stitute for a good climate in the 
many pits and frames emptied of 
bedding and other plants during 
summer and early autumn. Mr. 
Iggulden's practice is as follows : — 
" I prefer pits with a single hot- 
water pipe round, and which are 
oftentimes devoted first or during 
the winter to Bouvardias, then to 
Kidney Beans during the spring 
months, and subsequently to Melons 



or Cucumbers. If such a pit is 
available it may well be devoted 
to Tomatoes, and, failing this, 
a cold pit or ordinary Potato- 
frame will do nearly as well, as it 
is protection from rain rather than 
heat that is indispensable during the 
summer and autumn. Supposing 
these pits and frames, in addition to 
perfecting the crops of Potatoes, are 
also required for the preparation of 
summer bedding plants, the best 
plan will be to have a number of 
strong Tomato-plants, with perhaps 
a cluster of fruit already set, ready 
to plant, say, by the end of May. 

" A bed previously devoted to 
early Potatoes just suits Tomatoes, 
and needs no preparation beyond 
the addition of a little manure to 
the soil. If a bed has to be made 
specially for them, a quantity of old 
heating material may be used, add- 
ing to this sufficient fresh to cause 
the whole to become just warm 
enough to give the Tomatoes a 
good start. Better, however, a small 
bed of half-decayed manure than a 
heap of material that has heated 
itself dry, as in the latter case the 
small amount of loamy soil on the 
surface of the bed is all the plants 
would have to support them. The 
depth of the manure in the pits 
must be regulated according to the 
depth of the walls, but any amount 
from I to 3 ft. will be ample, as the 
frames can be raised. The beds 
may be made of any height, so long 
as the heap does not become very 
hot. Over the manure place a layer 
about I ft. in depth of rich loamy 
soil, and if the loam is rough and 
fibrous, so much the better. Keep 
the lights of the frames or pits on 
closely, and when the sunshine or 
bottom heat has warmed the soil, 
plant at once. 

" In pits and deep frames a con- 
siderable number of plants may be 



TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 713 



fruited, these being grown with 
single stems and staked in a sloping 
direction ; while in shallow frames 
a few plants may be trained and 
fruited somewhat similar to Cucum- 
bers or Melons. I prefer, however, 
in all cases where there is a depth 
of 2 ft. or more at the back, to adopt 
a combination of the two plans ; 
that is to say, to cover the back 
wall or boards, as the case may be, 
with a number of obliquely trained 
plants, and the beds with a few 
spreading or trailing plants. I find 
where numbers are in a pit or frame, 
say about 15 in. apart and neces- 
sarily staked in a slanting direction, 
they are apt to shade each other; 
but if the back walls or boards are 
covered with plants, these yield 
surprisingly without interfering with 
or being injuriously affected by 
those spreading on the ground. In 
frame culture it is imperative that 
the cultivator be able to put on the 
lights at certain times, and for this 
reason the plants cannot well be too 
dwarf. Now, there are few or no 
really dwarf sorts to be had gene- 
rally, with the exception of Vil- 
morin's Dwarf, but the plants may 
easily be dwarfed by burying the 
stems, and as these quickly emit 
roots, the plants are also strengthened 
by the process. I do not recom- 
mend burying the balls deeply ; the 
object is best attained by trimming 
off the lower leaves of the plants, 
and then, after some of the soil has 
been thrown out, lay them in different 
directions, so as to place all the 
heads where required, the soil being 
then returned. This will be found 
a better plan than either layering or 
striking the tops in order to secure 
dwarf plants, and laying them all in 
before covering the balls and stems 
is the only way to properly plant. 
The balls should be moist when 
planted, and are best slightly sunk 



and marked with pegs, so that they 
can subsequently be kept watered 
till such time as the roots are spread 
in all directions. The frames should 
be kept rather close till the plants 
have recommenced growth, when 
air should be given freely, throwing 
off the lights during hot weather. 
Close early in the afternoons till 
such times as the fruits are com- 
mencing to ripen, when a little may^ 
be left on during warm dry nights. 
A stout stake should be placed to- 
each plant, the latter having all 
side shoots kept rubbed out, and be 
stopped beyond either the second 
or third large cluster of fruit, or ac- 
cording to the head room. If what 
I term the combination system is 
adopted, those plants nailed or other- 
wise trained to the back of the frames, 
should be laid down or dwarfed; 
while about two plants in the centre 
of each light should also be planted 
in a sloping direction, pegged down 
and encouraged to spread, the former 
to have all side shoots removed from 
the one or more main stems that 
may be laid in, and the latter must 
be freely thinned out where at all 
crowded, the laterals being depended 
upon for fruiting, and are best raised 
from the soil with short stakes, or 
the clusters of fruit may be laid on. 
pieces of slates or roofing tiles. 
Wherever the stems are pegged 
down they will strike root, to the 
obvious benefit of the crops. 

" Disease and its Prevention. 
— It is when the foliage is wet,, 
and especially during dull showery 
weather, that the fungus effects a. 
lodgment on it, and this happens 
w^hether the plants be dry at the 
roots or not. Consequently to with- 
hold water from the roots, or to 
increase the bottom heat as a pre- 
ventive of disease, is a mistake. 
Keep the foliage dry with the aid 
of the lights, never syringe over- 



714 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



head, and do not leave air on when 
the nights are what are termed 
muggy — that is to say, warm and 
moist. It is this kind of weather 
that most favours the spread of the 
Potato fungus, and during its pre- 
valence those growing Tomatoes in 
frames have the advantage over 
open-air cultivators, as they can 
and ought to keep their frames dry 
and close. Where the pits are 
heated, a little heat should be turned 
•on during cold or wet weather, and 
again when it is desirable to hasten 
the ripening of the late fruit. The 
late fruit in cold pits and frames 
will generally ripen if cut in bunches 
and hung up either in a forcing or 
warm house or in the kitchen of a 
dwelling-house." 

Market - Garden Culture. — 
Outdoor Tomatoes in market-gar- 
dens are not planted against walls, 
as is done in private establishments ; 
but a warm situation, convenient to 
water, is selected for them in open 
positions, and in such positions they 
produce abundance of large, well- 
coloured fruit. The earliest planted 
ones are generally put in the most 
favourable positions, such as a warm 
border, or on either side of " spent " 
Mushroom ridges, where they are 
well sheltered. If planted too early, 
they are liable to be cut down by late 
spring frosts, in which case entire 
removal and replanting is the remedy 
usually applied ; if the damage be 
not too great, however, the sound 
eyes produce shoots that eventually 
carry heavy crops. Early in spring 
the seeds are sown broadcast in a 
frame, in which a bed of fermenting 
manure, covered with 6 in. of light 
soil, has been placed. These frames 
are protected during cold weather 
by a covering of litter or mats placed 
over the sashes ; but during favour- 
able weather this is removed and air 
is given, in order to render the 



young plants as strong, healthy, and 
stubby as possible. If the plants 
come up too thickly, they are 
thinned, and when they are about 
2 in. high they are pricked out 
into 4 in. or 6 in. pots, two plants 
being generally put into each pot. 
Frames are sometimes prepared by 
placing in them fermenting manure 
in the form of a bed to the depth of 
15 in., well trodden down, on which 
are placed 8 in. of soil, and in such 
beds pots filled with mould are 
plunged up to the brim. The 
plants are then dibbled into the 
pots, and the frames shut up and 
kept close for a time, until fresh 
root-action has taken place. They 
are afterwards kept freely ventilated 
until May, when the sashes are 
entirely removed during the day, 
and replaced and tilted up at night 
and in wet weather. During the 
last week in May the plants are 
thoroughly hardened off, although 
still unable to endure even a slight 
frost, and they are planted in warm 
positions, as before stated, on Mush- 
room ridges or similar places. As 
soon as the fruit has attained its full 
size, the leaves are turned aside so 
as to expose it to the sun, by which 
means it ripens more readily, and is 
of better colour than when shaded. 
The ripe fruits are generally picked 
off twice a week, leaving the 
greener ones a little longer, so as 
to mature themselves ; but should 
frost come, all fruits are picked off, 
and spread out on hay in a frame 
under sashes, where they eventually 
become red. 

The Potato disease has often 
played havoc with Tomatoes in the 
market-gardens of London during 
recent years. The winter and early 
supply is to a great extent grown by 
special growers in the warmer parts 
of Sussex, and also in the Channel 
Islands. 



TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 



715 




Early Large Red, or Powell's Early, Tomato 
(3;^ natural size ; detached fruit, ^ natural size). 



Uses. — Every ^year Tomatoes are becoming more used for 
cooking and as the best of salads. The manufacture of Tomato 
preserves and Tomato 
sauce forms a very ex- 
tensive branch of industry 
in the south of France. 

Large Red Tomato 
(English synonyms: Large 
Red Italian, Orangefield, 
Mammoth, or Fiji Island 
Tomato). — Plant vigorous 
growing ; leaves rather 
broad, dark green ; leaflets 
somewhat puckered and 
folded at the edges ; fruit 
in bunches of from two to 
four, very large, flattened 
at the ends, irregularly 
ribbed, 3 to 4 in. wide, 
2 in. or less deep, and a 
fine deep scarlet. A very 
productive variety, and the 
most extensively grown in the south of France, whence the fruit is 
sent to all the markets, while a considerable quantity is made into 
preserves. The fruit ripens rather late to suit the climate of Paris. 
Early Large Red, or Powell's Early, Tomato. — Plant rather 

slender, with leaves 
almost always curled, 
and leaflets folded back 
on the upper surface, 
giving to the plant a 
half- faded appearance ; 
fruit very numerous, in 
bunches of from three to 
six, ribbed like those of 
the preceding kind, but 
seldom exceeding 2^ to 
3^ in. in diameter, and 
li to if in. in depth. 
It ripens a fortnight or 
three weeks earlier than 
the preceding kind, and 
IT 1 ^ is well adapted for 

Early Dwarf Red Tomato. • -i . 1 ^ 

cimiates similar to that 
of Paris. This variety is one of those which are most extensively 
grown. 




7i6 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Early Dwarf Red Tomato.— A sub-variety of the preceding 
kind, from which it differs in having the stem shorter and branching, 
and bearing fruit closer to the ground, its other characteristics being 
the same. Its dwarfer habit renders it easier to cultivate, and 
especially more suitable for forcing. When grown under the same 
conditions as the other, it commences to ripen its fruit two or three 
days earlier. The fruit is somewhat more flattened, more ribbed, 
and smaller than that of the preceding kind, but the difference is 
very slight. 

Tree Tomato. — This variety, raised in the gardens of the Comte 
de Fleurieu at the Chateau de Laye, near Villefranche (Rhone), 
differs from all others in having a very short stiff stem, which grows 
perfectly erect without any support and bears leaves which are 




Upright Red Laye Tree Tomato, 



very much curled, reticulated, and almost black-green. The fruit 
resembles that of the Large Red Tomato and ripens nearly as 
late. It would be very interesting, and, no doubt, would not be 
impossible, to raise different varieties of Tomatoes which would 
combine the best features of the ordinary kinds, as regards shape 
and earliness, with the stiff, firm, and thick-set habit of growth of 
the present variety. 

Belle of Massy Tomato. — A vigorous, half-early, very pro- 
ductive variety, of dwarf growth, not exceeding 3 ft. 3 in. ; stem 
very thick ; leaves smooth, much divided, with purplish stalks. 
Fruit slightly ribbed, produced in clusters, large, thick, resembling 
somewhat Atlantic Prize ; flesh firm and delicate, not liable to split 
when ripe. Not quite so early as the sort just named, but ripen- 
ing nevertheless very early and producing beautiful fruit of good 
keeping quality. 



TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 



717 



Laxton's Open-air Tomato. — A fairly vigorous not very tall 
plant ; leaves grayish, light, somewhat crimped. The fruit, produced 
in bunches, is rather irregular in shape, but not ribbed, and quite flat 




on the side opposite the stalk ; it is a little more than I in. by 
or 2 J in. in diameter, and when ripe a very vivid scarlet. The flesh 
is thick and well flavoured. Perfectly suited for outdoor cultivation, 
it is as early as the Early Dwarf Red Tomato, but not quite so 
compact in habit. 



7i8 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Atlantic Prize Tomato. — The best open-air Tomato for pro- 
ducing large crops ; it is vigorous, and as early as a heavy cropper 
can be. The fruit are numerous, rounded, slightly flattened at the 
lower end, fleshy, and of excellent quality, quite smooth, and 
dark scarlet-red. The leaves are curled like those of the Large 
Early Red Tomato. 

Marvel of the Market Tomato.— A vigorous bushy plant, 
3 to 4 J ft. in height ; leaves large, dark green ; leaflets rather large, 
rounded, reticulated ; fruit round or slightly flattened, a little over 




Laxton's Open-air Tomato. Atlantic Prize Tomato. 



3 in. in diameter, smooth, bright scarlet, in large bunches ; flesh 
pink. A very productive and vigorous variety, not liable to disease. 
The fruit are medium-sized, keep and travel well without splitting 
or deteriorating, and especially suited for market supply and 
export. 

Chemin Red Early Tomato. — An excellent variety raised 
near Paris ; a tall, vigorous, early-flowering plant ; the foliage is 
slightly crimped at the base of the stem, but entire and rather 
curled towards the top. The fruit, which set readily, are some- 
limes produced in bunches of seven or eight, but they attain 
to better size when only three or four on a bunch ; they are 



TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 



almost round, or slightly heart-shaped, as thick as broad, flattened 
very seldom, and only when very large. This thickness and 
solidity of flesh gives to the Chemin Tomato the prominent place 
it occupies. It is productive, and one of the best for canning. 
Its relative earliness suits it to the climate of Paris. In the south 
of France its long productivity and the beauty of its fruit are much 
appreciated. 

Purple Champion Tomato. — In habit intermediate between 
the Upright Tree Tomato and 
the other varieties ; the stem is 
short, stout, and erect, unless 
overloaded with fruit. Leaves 
dark green, stiff, much reticulated 
and crimped. The fruit is 
medium-sized, very smooth, well 




Marvel of the Market Tomato. 



Champion Tomato. 



shaped, and rather flattened. A half-early variety, vigorous, 
productive, and fairly hardy. Its only defect, to French taste, is 
its purple colour. 

Scarlet Champion Tomato. — Obtained in France by selection 
from the Purple Champion Tomato and has all the characteristics 
of the latter, differing from it only in colour, which is a beautiful 
scarlet-red, for which reason it is fast superseding the Purple variety 
in France. 



720 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Perfection Tomato. — A very handsome variety, intermediate 
between the Trophy and Hathaway's Excelsior, with smooth 
leaves. More productive than Hathaway's Excelsior, with larger 




and finer fruit, it is superior to the Trophy in its greater earliness and 
the regularity with which it ripens its fruit in the climate of Paris. 
The fruit is a fine deep scarlet, quite smooth, thick, more or less 
flattened, very solid and fleshy, well suited for canning. Ripens 
about mid-season. 



TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 721 

Trophy Tomato. — Plant large, tall, and vigorous, like that of 
the Large Red Tomato, but still later than that variety ; fruit 
flattened at both ends, regularly rounded or faintly sinuated, from 
about 2 J to 4 in. in diameter, and from if to nearly 2 J in. in 
depth. It is difficult to keep this variety absolutely pure, the fruit 
always having a tendency to revert to the ribbed shape, and the 
same plant will often be found bearing fruit which are smooth and 
others with ribs more or less distinctly marked. 

The Stamford Tomato, raised by Mr. Laxton, the well-known 




Perfection Tomato. 



English grower, comes very near this variety. It has rather smaller 
fruit, but more regular in shape than those of the Trophy Tomato, 
and the flesh is thicker. It is intermediate between the Trophy and 
Hathaway's Excelsior Tomato. 

There has been grown in the neighbourhood of Paris, under the 
name of Inornate Rouge Gross e Lisse a Feuilles Crisp ees (Smooth 
Red Curled Tomato), a variety with very smooth fruit, much 
flattened at the lower end ; owing to their depressed shape they 
lack thickness and consequently weight ; and besides, they ripen 
very late, a serious drawback where, as happens too often, only one 
lialf of the Tomatoes ever attains complete maturity. The early 

46 



722 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Chemin Tomato is much superior to this variety, and will no doubt 
supersede it entirely. 

Mikado Purple Tomato. — A tall, vigorous, rather late variety, 
much more suitable for warm climates than for Paris. Stems 
very tall and stout, leaves of a special character, with only a 
few leaflets, but those unusually large. Fruit very large, smooth, 
flattened, but very thick and purple, like the Acme Tomato. 




Trophy Tomato. 



Mikado Scarlet Tomato. — The principal merit of the Mikado 

Purple Tomato is that it has produced the Scarlet form here 
described. Jt has all the good qualities of its parent, besides 
greater earliness and brighter colour. 

Scarlet Ponderosa Tomato. — The result of a selection made 
in Europe among the purple-coloured Ponderosa Tomato, which 
it has entirely superseded. The fruit has the same enormous size, 
is quite smooth, and a colour more in harmony with French taste. 



TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 



723 



Golden Queen Tomato. —Fruit large, smooth, flattened, bright 
yellow, sometimes tinged orange on the sunny side. A fine pro- 
ductive half-early Tomato, but, like all the yellow Tomatoes, more 




curious than useful so long as consumers continue to favour the 
red varieties. 

Apple-shaped Red, or Hathaway's Excelsior, Tomato. — Plant 
of medium vigour, about the same size as the Large Early Red 
Tomato-plant, but with the leaves less curled ; fruit almost spherical, 



724 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



quite smooth, 2 in. or more in diameter, and borne in bunches 
of from three to six. They ripen a Httle earlier than those of 
the Large Red Tomato, but some days later than those of the 




Scarlet Ponderosa Tomato. 



Large Early Red variety. The flesh is more solid than that of 
the ribbed Tomatoes, and the fruit keeps well when the skin is 
not cracked or otherwise injured. 



TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 



725 



Apple-shaped Purple, or Acme, Tomato.— A very handsome, 
productive, and rather late variety, bearing some resemblance to 
the preceding kind in the shape of the fruit, but differing from it 
in being larger, and a darker, almost violet, tint when ripe. The 
bunches usually do not contain more than from two to four fruit 




Round Yellow Tomato. 



each, and these, although very round, are somewhat broader 
than deep. 

The American variety Criterion, which is almost of the same 
colour as the preceding kind, differs from it in being of a slightly 
elongated-ovoid shape. Its fruit is about 2 in. long and if in. in 
transverse diameter. 

King Humbert Tomato. — A very distinct kind, the fruit being 
of a shape unknown in Tomatoes so far. It is tall, vigorous, and 
prolonged in growth, with flowers in numerous bunches. Fruit 



726 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



oblong, square rather than round, often in long clusters of ten to 
twelve, very fleshy, ripening regularly in succession as long as the 
temperature allows. Under glass it produces abundantly and 
long. 

Pear-shaped, or Fig", Tomato. — A very vigorous and rather early 
variety. Stem 4 ft. to 4 ft. 3 in. high ; leaves numerous, not curled, 
rather broad, and deep green ; fruit numerous, scarlet, pear-shaped, 
more or less narrow at the base, about 2 in. long and ij in. broad 




Apple-shaped Red Tomato. 



in the thickest part, borne in bunches of from six to ten A well- 
grown plant may be allowed to carry from twenty to twenty-five 
bunches. In the south of Europe, especially near Naples, a great 
number of Pear-shaped varieties of Tomatoes are grown, among 
which this strain appears to us most worthy of note for earliness 
and productiveness. The Pear-shaped kinds are considered to 
keep better than any others. At Naples the plants are pulled 
with their fruit, and hung under cover, in the autumn ; the fruit 
are then picked as they are wanted during the winter, or even 



TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 



727 



until the new crop is ready. The English variety named Nisbetfs 
Victoria should be referred to the Pear-shaped section, although it 
is a rather distinct form 
of it. This Tomato is 
more of a long egg shape, 
and broader at the lower 
end than a true pear 
shape. The fruit arc 
borne in bunches of from 
four to eight, and the 
plant, which is tall, stout, 
and half-late, is remark- 
able for the luxuriance of 
its foliage. 

Cherry Tomato.— 
Plant comparatively 
hardy, very productive, 
and vigorous; stem about 
4 ft. high, thick and 
stout, very branching, and 
bearing an abundance of 
very green, flat leaves. 
The flowers commence to 
appear a week later than 
those of the Large Early 
Red Tomato. Fruit spherical or slightly flattened, scarlet, about 
I in. in diameter, and growing in bunches of from eight to twelve. 
A well-grown plant may be allowed to carry more than twenty 
bunches, especially if the fruit are gathered as they ripen. This 
is a mid-season variety, and is very productive, notwithstanding 

the small size of the fruit. 
The Red Currant 
M/ Tomato {Solamnn racemi- 
foniin, Dun.) is sometimes 
^ grown for table use, but 
more frequently as an 
ornamental plant. Fruit 
rounded, small, and scarlet, 
produced in long clusters 
of twelve, fifteen, or even 
more, containing an acid 
pulp. 

Amongst the numerous 
varieties of Tomatoes 
following deserve to be 




King Humbert Tomato. 




Pear-shaped, or Fig, Tomato (branch, 
§ natural size). 



which we have 
mentioned : — 



not described, the 



728 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Beauty. — Productive, fairly vigorous ; fruit medium - sized, 
smooth, purple-red. In the United States this is considered one 
of the best of the purple Tomatoes. 

Belle de Leuville. — Fruit of the same shape as the Large Red 
Tomato, with faintly marked ribs, smooth, well shaped, remark- 
able for its crimson tint, almost violet when ripe. This variety 
was raised at Leuville, near Arpajon, in the vicinity of Paris. The 
new round-fruited kinds are at the present day preferred to it, but 
it appeared before any of the American or English varieties which 
are now so extensively grown. 

Blenheim Orange. — A beautiful medium-sized fruit, of ex- 
cellent quality, without 
ribs ; slightly flattened, 
and a bright orange- 
yellow. 

Earliana. — An 
American variety recently 
obtained, considered in 
the country of its origin 
to be the earliest of the 
middle or large - sized 
varieties. A small, vigorous 
plant, bearing numerous 
fruit in clusters of five to 
eight, smooth, regular in 
contour, bright red, firm 
in flesh, and good in 
quality. 

Early Mayflower. — A handsome American variety, with 
medium-sized fruit, very smooth, and intensely coloured, but 
though named "early," it ripens rather late. 

Early Optimus. — Half-dwarf, fairly early ; the fruit resemble 
those of the Perfection Tomato, but are more flattened and less 
regular in size. 

Golden Trophy. — A very large yellow Tomato, smooth, late. 

Honor Bright. — An American variety, ripening late ; fruit 
almost round, medium-sized, bright red, keeping well. Despite 
the yellowish colour of its foliage and slowness to ripen, it is much 
appreciated in America for producing a late crop, as also for 
shipping long distances. 

Jaune Petite. — A yellow-fruited variety of the Cherry Tomato. 
Fruit numerous, golden-yellow, and perfectly round. 

Large Yellow Tomato. — An American variety of the same 
shape and almost of the same size as the Large Red Tomato. 
The fruit is very deeply ribbed, and very inferior to that of the 
Round or Smooth Yellow Tomato. 




Cherry Tomato (branch, 5 natural size; 



TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE 



729 



Peach. — A very distinct, tall-growing, fairly vigorous variety, 
characterised by the metallic blue of its foliage. Fruit perfectly 
round, of the size of a greengage plum, and a peculiar and pleasing 
pink ; it is produced in long clusters of from ten to twelve. A 
half-late variety. 

Scarlet Turk's Cap. — A curious red-fruited kind, with fruit 
under the average size, and distinguished for the abnormal 
development of a portion of the carpels, which forms in the centre 
of the fruit a protuberance similar to that which is seen in the 
Turk's-cap, or Turban, Gourds. This variety is half-early and 
moderately productive. 

Stone. — A vigorous-growing variety, with large, regularly 
shaped fruit, scarlet, very smooth ; flesh quite solid and firm. 

Yellow Pear-shaped. — This is simply a variety of the Pear- 
shaped Tomato with bright yellow fruit. As in the case of the 
red-fruited form, there are numerous kinds of it, differing from 
one another in size and earliness. 



STRAWBERRY TOMATO, SMALL MEXICAN TOMATO, 
or BARBADOES GOOSEBERRY 

Physalis pubescens^ L. Solanacece, 

French^ Alkekenge jaune doux. German, Judenkirsche. Flemish, Jodekers. Italian^ 
Alchechengi giallo. Spanish, Alquequenje. Portuguese^ Alkekengi. 



Native of South America. — Annual. — A plant with 
branching, angular stem, from about 2\ to over 3 ft. high, 
heart-shaped or oval, soft, 



hairy, and somewhat 
clammy; flowers solitary, 
small, yellow, marked 
with a brown spot in the 
centre ; calyx bladder- 
shaped, very large, en- 
closing one juicy orange- 
yellow fruit about the 
size of a cherry ; seeds 
small, lenticular, smooth, 
pale yellow ; their germi- 
nating power lasting for 
eight years. 

Culture. — In the 
south of France this plant 
grows very well in the 
open air, without requir- 
ing much attention, but 



a very 
Leaves 




Strawberry Tomato (f natural size). 



730 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



in the climate of Paris it is advisable to sow it in a hot-bed, 
and treat the plants like Egg-plants or Tomatoes. 

Uses. — In the south of Europe the fruit is eaten raw and for 
the sake of its slightly acid taste. 

Another species {P. peruviana, Hort.) produces yellow berries, 
which are eaten raw or made into a preserve. It differs 
but little from P. pubescens. P. Barbadensis, Jacq., is also in 
cultivation. 

The plant introduced lately under the name of the Small 
Mexican Tomato is probably PJiysalis edtclis, Sims. It is a 
true annual of rapid growth, and ripens its fruit perfectly in 
the climate of Paris. Its properties are medicinal rather than 
culinary. 

The Phy sails Alkekengi, L., is a perennial plant, sometimes 
grown for ornament under the name of Winter-Cherry. German^ 
Blasenkirsche. French, Alkekenge officinal. 

TURNIP 

Brassica Napus, L. Cruciferce. 

French, Navet. German, Herbst-Rube. Flemish and DtUch, Raap. Danish, Rce. 
Italian, Navone. Spanish and Portuguese, Nabo. 

Native country uncertain. — Biennial. — The Turnip has been 
cultivated from a very early period. There appears to be no doubt 
that it originated either in Europe or Western Asia, but the precise 
locality is unknown. The root is swollen and fleshy, variable in 
shape according to the variety, being cylindrical, conical, pear- 
shaped, spherical or flattened, and equally variable in colour, 
white, yellow, red, gray, or black ; the flesh is white or yellow, 
sometimes more or less sugary, and sometimes pungent and slightly 
acrid. Leaves oblong, usually lyrate, and divided to the midrib in 
the lower part, sometimes oblong entire, and always a light green 
colour, and more or less rough to the touch ; flower-stem smooth, 
branching ; flowers yellow, in terminal spikes, and succeeded by 
long, slender, cylindrical, long-pointed siliques or seed-vessels, each 
of which contains from fifteen to twenty-five very small spherical 
seeds of a red-brown colour, and sometimes, though rarely, 
almost black. Their germinating power lasts for five years. The 
varieties of Turnips are exceedingly numerous, and we must 
confine ourselves to the enumeration of the kinds which are most 
commonly cultivated. 

Culture. — The Turnip is an autumn-cropping plant, the main 
crop always coming in late in the season, and the time of sowing 
varying only a few weeks, according to the earliness of the different 
varieties. In the neighbourhood of Paris, the latest varieties are 
sown from June 25th to July 25th, and the earliest kinds from 



i 



TURNIP 



731 



July 25th to August 25th. After this date, sowings may be made 
up to about the middle of September of very early kinds, from 
which a supply of half-grown roots may be obtained towards the 
end of the year, and even in spring ; as Turnips when not fully 
grown will not be injured by being left in the open ground during 
the winter, if they are protected by a covering of dry leaves or 
straw. It is rather difficult to grow Turnips in spring, and the 
earliest and tenderest varieties are the only kinds that can be satis- 
factorily used for that purpose; and even then it sometimes happens 
that the plants run to seed without forming roots fit for use. The 
seed may be sown in February in a cold frame, the only kinds 
employed for this purpose being the Early Flat varieties, the Round 
Groissy Turnip, and the Jersey Navet. After March 15th the seed 
may be sown in the open ground, and, by making successional 
sowings about once a month, a continuous supply may be ob- 
tained up to the coming in of the ordinary season's crop. Turnips 
are generally sown broadcast in beds; but the work of thinning 
out, hoeing, and all other operations connected with their culture 
are more easily done when they are sown in drills. The seedlings 
ate hardly overground when they are liable to be attacked by their 
greatest enemy, the Turnip-fly, from which it is most difficult to 
protect them, seed having sometimes to be sown twice or thrice 
over in consequence of the ravages of this insect. As soon as the 
young plants are well up, and have made a few leaves, thinning out 
should commence, and be continued at intervals until all the plants 
are finally placed a suitable distance apart. Plentiful watering is 
necessary, if the weather is hot and dry, as, in order to ensure 
good quality in the roots, the plants must not be allowed to suffer 
any check in their growth. For table use, the roots are usually 
taken up before they have attained their full size, being more 
tender and more delicate in flavour when only half or three-quarters 
^rown. 



A good variety, or growing the 
best Idnds, is not the whole secret 
of securing the best roots. This can 
only be done through good culti- 
vation, and Turnips will repay 
attention as well as any other crop. 
Poor, gravelly soil will never 
produce tender, sweet roots ; well- 
manured land seldom fails to grow 
good Turnips. It is, therefore, well 
to see that the soil has been pro- 
perly prepared for them before sowing 
the seed. This applies to crops at 
all seasons. In spring the earliest 



should be sown on a favourable spot 
on a south border. The first time 
the soil is in good working order in 
March, put the first seed in out-of- 
doors, and sowings may be made 
monthly from then until the end of 
August, putting different kinds in 
to follow one another according to 
their earliness. 

Early in the season Turnips may 
form a first crop on the ground for 
the year ; but later on, especially in 
the case of the winter ones, the seed 
may generally be sown on ground 



732 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



which has been cleared of Peas, 
Potatoes, or such like. In spring 
deep digging and plenty of manure 
suit them well, but in sowing after 
other crops, as suggested, manure is 
not often wanted and the soil need 
not be turned over ; a hoeing and 
raking of the surface will suffice in 
most cases. Drills should be drawn 
not more than 2 in. deep, and i ft. 
apart is a good distance in spring, 
but 18 in. may be given to those 
that have to stand the winter. Tur- 
nip seed germinates freely ; it is 
rarely bad, and therefore thin sowing 
should be the rule. The young 
plants soon appear above ground, 
and in favourable weather they grow 
so quickly that it is almost necessary 
to begin thinning as soon as the 
plants can be taken hold of, as 
crowding has an injurious effect on 
them at first. It is a good plan to 
thin them all twice. At first they 
should be thinned out to 6 in. apart, 
and the second time every other one 
should be removed, which will leave 
the plants for the crop standing at 
I ft. apart or thereabouts. 

Snails are sometimes trouble- 
some ; they eat off the young plants, 
but a slight dusting of lime or soot 
generally prevents them from doing 
much harm, and dressings of the 
kind assist greatly in keeping away 
the grub and insects that often 
disfigure the roots. The Turnip- 
fly, too, does not like coming in 
contact with soot or lime; and a 
slight dusting of one or the other, 
or both of these, may be given to 
the plants in a young state, whether 
they are much in want of it or not. 
At all times the surface of the soil 
between the rows should be kept 
open and free from weeds, and this 
is best done by using the Dutch 
hoe frequently. In hot, dry weather 
Turnips soon become bitter and 
stringy, and in this state they are 



far from good ; but by a little fore- 
thought and attention no one need 
ever be obliged to use such, as by 
sowing small patches frequently a 
constant supply of delicate roots may 
be secured. When many of them 
become ready for use together, part 
of them may be taken up and stored 
in a cool shed. They will keep 
longer there than they would do in 
the ground, but Turnips taken up 
too soon lose part of their flavour ; 
therefore they should always be 
left in growing quarters as long as 
possible. In winter some take up 
their Turnips and store them away 
like Beet or Carrots ; but nothmg 
is gained by doing that, and it 
should never be practised unless the 
weather is unusually severe. The 
Chirk Castle should never be 
stored, except for convenience, as 
it is rarely injured by frost ; but in 
frosty or snowy weather it is some- 
times difficult to get them out of the 
ground. 

Turnips do not submit readily 
to forcing. Frames are the only 
places in which they can be treated 
properly. They must not be forced 
hard, as this causes them to run 
to leaf and flower without forming 
bulbs. The best way is to make up 
a very gentle hot-bed in February 
or March. Place a frame and some 
rich soil on the top, and sow the 
seed broadcast thinly. Give abun- 
dance of air as soon as the young 
plants can be seen, and never coddle 
them up with coverings or maintain 
a very close atmosphere unless the 
weather really demands it. As the 
plants increase in size, thin them 
out to a few inches apart, and the 
bulbs may be used as soon as they 
are the size of cricket-balls ' A.s an 
artificial m.anure for Turnips, no- 
thing equals superphosphate. This 
may be dug into the ground before 
sowing, or it maybe sprinkled thinly 



TURNIP 



733 



in the drills when opened for the 
reception of the seed. 

The Soil most suitable for 
Turnip culture is a rich, friable, 
sandy loam, on which medium-sized 
roots of excellent quality may be 
produced without the aid of much 
manure ; and the fresher the soil 
the better flavour the crop, — for 
which reason preference is always 
given to those grown on arable land 
after corn crops, as the kitchen- 
garden soil is frequently too rich in 
decayed vegetable matter, and has 
to support a much greater variety 
of tap-rooted plants, which extract 
the elements necessary for their 
growth from the soil. For this 
reason the main crop for winter 
use should be grown in a similar 
manner to main crops of Potatoes, 
outside the kitchen-garden proper; 
' and if fresh land be available every 
year, the results will be all the 
better. In light dry soils well- 
decomposed manure must neces- 
sarily be supplied ; for if the young 
plants lack nourishment sufficient 
to ensure a healthy growth, insect 
plagues invariably attack them in 
dry periods, and the crop will be 
hard and stringy. But perhaps the 
most difficult soils to deal with are 
stiff, cold, retentive ones, for without 
a good seed-bed successful results 
are well-nigh hopeless. Under such 
circumstances it is a good practice 
to draw deep drills the required 
distances, and fill them up with 
light rich soil, wood-ashes, bone- 
dust, or guano, in which to deposit 
the seed, whereby the young plant 
gets quickly into rough leaf, and 
grows out of the reach of insects. 
In dry soils Turnips are often, in 
hot seasons, not only of inferior 
quality, but it is also difficult to get 
the seeds to germinate freely and 
regularly, and to induce the young 
plants to make a sufficiently rapid 



growth to escape the ravages of the 
fly. 

Culture in Market-Gardens. 
— The earhest sowing of Turnips is 
made in the end of January or early 
in February, in pits or frames, or 
on hot-beds without frames ; and 
main sowings are made broadcast 
on a field about the end of February, 
or in March, to be succeeded by 
another sowing made in April. 
After the plants come up they are 
thinned, and the surface soil is at 
the same time loosened by means 
of small hoes. The largest roots 
are first drawn for market ; thus the 
plants get thinned, and those that 
remain have more space for develop- 
ment. For early crops, when grown 
in brick pits, 2 or 3 ft. of rough 
fermenting material is cast into the 
pit and firmly trodden down, and 
on this is placed a few inches in 
thickness of garden soil, which is 
also made firm. The seeds are 
then sown broadcast, and afterwards 
the frame is kept close and moist 
until germination has taken place, 
when plenty of air is admitted on 
every favourable opportunity. If 
the seedlings come up too thickly, 
they are thinned out to 3 or 4 in. 
apart. Frame Turnips are never 
large ; the aim is to grow them 
quickly to the size of a hen's egg, 
when they are tender and of good 
flavour, and to market them at 
once. The method of growing 
them in hot-beds without frames is 
to cast out trenches 18 in. deep, 
6 ft. wide, and of any length, and 
firmly fill them with manure ; over 
this a coating of soil is placed, and 
rolled or beaten solidly with the 
back of a spade 5 the seed is then 
sown, slightly covered, and finished 
off by rolling again ; hoops made 
of hazel sticks are then fixed over 
the beds, so that they can be covered 
with mats, and in the event of hard 



734 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



frosty weather setting in, some 
strawy litter is added to the cover- 
ing. If the weather is mild, the 
mats are let down every day so as 
to admit light to the young plants ; 
and as soon as it can be done with 
safety, they are removed from over 
the beds and left erect around their 
sides in order to ward off winds. 
Sometimes the aid of either frames 
or hoops and mats is dispensed 
with, and the crop is grown on hot- 
beds like those just described, a 
little loose litter being merely strewn 
over the surface until the plants are 
established; in this way excellent 
Turnips are produced a week or 



two later than those which have 
been protected. Some growers use 
the space between the lines of 
frames for growing Turnips ; and 
well it answers for that purpose, as, 
owing to the soil being below the 
general level, it keeps comparatively 
moist, and the belts of frames pro- 
tect the plants considerably. The 
soil between Turnips is kept stirred 
with the hoe as frequently as pos- 
sible, for no crop is more benefited 
by surface stirrings than this. Spring 
Turnips are generally got off the 
ground in time to permit of it being 
cropped with French Beans, summer 
Cabbage, Spinach, or Celery. * 



Uses. — The roots are boiled, and served up in various ways. 
In spring the young shoots or " tops " may also be used, especially 
if grown in a dark place, when they furnish a very delicately 
flavoured vegetable, somewhat like the Sprouting Broccoli, t 



A. Long Varieties 

Half-long White Forcing Turnip. — A very pretty variety, 
intermediate in shape between the White Carrot-shaped Turnip 

and the Jersey Turnip, but 
smoother, less leafy, and 
earlier than either. It is 
unrivalled for forcing, suc- 
ceeding, if sown under glass 
in the spring, better than 
any other variety known. 
The foliage is light, very 
much cut, and quick in 
growth. It is less liable to 
run to seed than any other 
Turnip if its growth be 
properly pushed. 

White Carrot-shaped, 
or Pointed Vertus, Turnip. 
— Root pure w^hite, cylin- 
drical, ending in a long 
„ . ^ . ^ . point, often curved or 

Half-long White Forcing Turnip. ^^.^^^^^ ^ g ^^^^ 

2 in. or less in diameter, visible above ground for nearly one-fourth 
of its length ; flesh white, very tender, sugary ; skin very smooth, 

* Yellow-fleshed Turnips, see p. 775. t The Turnip Fly, see p. 782. 




LONG TURNIP 



735 



and dull white, both on the underground portion and on the neck ; 
leaves small, dark green, numerous, deeply cut, and forming a 
rather thick tuft This variety grows very well in light, moist, 




White Carrot-shaped Turnip. Half-long White Vertus, or Jersey', Turnipv 



Half-long White Vertus, or Jersey Navet, Turnip.— Root 
white, nearly cylindrical, but swollen at the lower end, which is 
obtuse or rounded, 5 or 6 in. long, and about 2 in. broad in the 
thickest part ; flesh white, very tender, and sugary ; leaves 
numerous and short, divided to the midrib in rounded lobes, and 
dark shining green. This is pre-eminently the kitchen-garden 
variety of Turnip, and is 
the kind which is most 
generally grown by the 
market-gardeners of Paris, 
so that it is rare to find 
the Central Market without 
it at any season. In the 
open ground the root is 
formed in two months or 
two months and a half, 
and the variety is also 
one of the best for forcing. 
Like Radishes, the roots 
become hollow at the 
centre, if allowed to grow 

. 1 J Half-long Red-top Vertus Turnip. 

too large, and they are 5 f f 

generally gathered for use when about two-thirds grown. 

Half-long Red-top Vertus Turnip. — In cultivation and pro- 
ductiveness exactly the counterpart of the Jersey Turnip. It 




736 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Teltow Turnip 
(i natural size). 



differs from it only in the purple- red colour of the part above 
ground — a very pleasing characteristic, which may, in some cases, 
cause it to be preferred to the white form. 

Teltow Turnip. — Root entirely sunk in the 
ground, conical or pear-shaped, short and small, 
from 2f to 33- in. long, and if in. broad at the 
neck, and gray-white ; flesh very dry but not 
hard, and sugary ; leaves very small, with 
rounded lobes, not more than 5 or 6 in. long, 
drooping on the ground and withering when 
the root is fully formed. This is an early 
variety and succeeds very well in light sandy 
soil. The root, when cooked, has a peculiar 
flavour, different from that of all other Turnips ; 
it is milder and more sugary, and the flesh is 
almost floury, instead of being juicy and melting. 
The roots will keep all through the winter, and 
even far into the following year, if taken up 
and stored in half-dry sand. 

Freneuse Turnip. — Root entirely sunk in 
the ground, spindle-shaped, with a wrinkled 
gray-white skin, and rather numerous rootlets, narrowing from the 
neck like a Salsafy root, 5 or 6 in. long, and li in. or at most 
if in. in diameter at the neck ; flesh white, dry, sugary, and very 
firm ; leaves small, short, very much divided, and dark green, 
forming a rosette which lies flat upon the ground. This variety is 
grown in the vicinity of Paris in the fields, in somewhat poor or 
gravelly soils, in which it succeeds better than 
in stiff soil. When grown in stiff soil, the root 
is often misshapen. It is the most highly 
esteemed of the dry-fleshed Turnips. 

The Jargeau and Rougeinont Turnips, the 
latter of which is a great favourite in the 
neighbourhood of Pithiviers, are small dry- 
fleshed Turnips which exhibit no perceptible 
difference from the Freneuse variety. 

Hardy White Winter Turnip. — Root 
entirely sunk in the ground, white, smooth, 
regular, conical ; flesh white, firm, very sweet ; 
leaves large and numerous. Though not a 
late variety, on the contrary a very quick 
grower, it is especially suited for late sowings, 
for use at the end of the autumn and during 
winter. It may be left in the ground for a part of the winter. 

Red-top Viarmes Turnip. — A fairly hard-fleshed variety, in 
shape like a half-long Carrot, white, with a rosy purple top. The 




Freneuse Turnip 
(i natural size). 



I 



LONG TURNIP 



737 



flesh is white, firm, dry, 
and well flavoured. It is 
largely brought into the 
Paris market, especially 
in the latter part of the 
autumn. In moist or 
well - watered gardens it 
may be grown for use as 
early as the end of summer 
and during the whole of 
the autumn. 



Morigny 
nip. — Root 
long ovoid 
jecting only 
overground, 
long, and 2 
the thickest 



Gray 

of a 
shape, 
about 
6 or 7 in. 

broad in 
part, which 



Tur- 

very 
pro- 
I in. 



in 



gray 
flesh 
and 




Hardy White Winter Turnip. 



occurs at about one-fourth 
or one-third of its length ; 
skin rather smooth, iron- 
or slate - coloured ; 
white, rather tender, 
sugary ; leaves 
medium-sized, half-erect, 
and of a light green. A 
rather early and good 
kitchen- garden variety. If sown rather late, the roots may often 
be kept in the ground through the winter, provided 
they are covered with straw or dried leaves. 

Long Black Turnip.— Root very long, spindle- 
shaped, clean skinned, almost entirely sunk in the 
ground, 6 to 8 in. long, and 2 in. or more in 
diameter at the neck ; skin black, as dark coloured 
as that of the Winter Radish ; flesh white or 
grayish white ; leaves rather stout, erect, and dark, 
shining green. This is a rather early variety, and 
when sown not sooner than in August, it keeps 
very well through the winter, like the preceding 
variety, if covered with straw or dried leaves. 
This method of preservation in winter is likewise 
generally applicable to all the varieties of Turnips 
which have the root deeply sunk in the ground, 
and especially so to those kinds which grow with 
Morigny Gray Turnip ^he neck of the root projecting a little above 
(i natural size;. the Surface and with the leaves erect rather than 

47 




738 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 




Long Black Turnip 
(i natural size). 



spreading. The roots thus protected can be 
taken up for use as they are required. 

Long Yellow Turnip.— Root entirely sunk 
in the ground, clean skinned, smooth, regular 
in shape, gradually narrowed from neck to 
point, and of a dull or wan yellow colour. 
It usually does not exceed 6 or 7 in. in length, 
and the diameter at the neck averages about 
2 in. The flesh is yellow throughout, fine in 
texture, rather firm, sugary, and agreeably 
flavoured. Leaves half-erect, rather divided, 
and a peculiar dark green. A somewhat late 
variety, but excellent for table use, of very 
good quality and keeping well. 

Parisians are prejudiced against the Yellow- 
fleshed Turnips, supposing that the yellow 
colour is always accompanied by a strong and 
bitter flavour, which is far from being the case, as amongst the 
Yellow-fleshed Turnips there are varieties the flesh of which is 
very mellow and very delicately flavoured, quite as much so, in 
fact, as that of the White-fleshed kinds. The 
prejudice, nevertheless, exists, and consequently 
should be taken into account by those who 
cultivate vegetables for the markets. 

Long- White Meaux Turnip. — Root very 
long, cylindrical, but ending in a point, and 
very often twisted or curved, projecting 2 or 
3 in, overground, 12 to 16 in. in length, and 
2 or 3 in. in diameter. All the underground 
portion is white; the overground part is some- 
times cream colour and sometimes tinged with 
pale green. Flesh white, close, half-dry, rather 
sugary; leaves medium-sized, lyrate, numerous, 
erect or half-erect. This is a very productive 
variety, and is principally grown in its native 
district for the supply of the Central Market 
of Paris in the latter end of winter. In order 
to keep them up to that time, the market- 
gardeners of Meaux cut off the " tops " of the 
plants soon after taking them up, and pile the 
roots in trenches, covering them over with 
sand. During the winter they bring them 
to market in bundles, and, as the roots have 
been deprived of their leaves, they are fastened 
together by a straw rope passed through them Long Yellow Tumip 

near the top. (i natural size). 




LONG TURNIP 



739 



Long Green Tankard Turnip.—Root half-sunk in the ground, 
nearly cylindrical in the upper part, and regularly narrowed in the 
portion underground — which is white, the above-ground part being 
green — 12 to 14 in. long, and about 3 in. in diameter ; flesh white, 
tender, and rather juicy; leaves large, half-erect, rather broad, and 
light green. A very productive variety, the root attaining a consider- 
able size. Though more grown for feeding cattle than for table use. 




Long White Meaux Turnip Long Green Tankard Long Red Tankard Turnip 
(I natural size). Turnip (i natural size). (i natural size). 



if pulled while young and tender it is not a bad vegetable. When 
grown in the fields, it is sown in July, and yields almost as heavy 
crops as the large late kinds, such as the Norfolk Turnips and others 
which require to be sown in June. 

Long Red Tankard Turnip. — This variety very nearly 
resembles the preceding, but the upper part of the root is violet- 
red instead of green. It is also, on the whole, somewhat shorter 
and thicker than the Green Tankard variety, and, like it, is more 



740 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



grown for cattle-feeding than for table use. The Red Tankard 
Turnip is much cultivated and highly esteemed all through Central 
Europe, from Poland to England, but it is only in France that the 
most regular forms of it, as regards shape and colour, are to be 
found. The forms grown elsewhere generally have the roots too 
short and top-shaped, and the upper part more of a pink or lilac 
hue than really red. 

The Navet-rave de Bresse is only a late long-rooted form of this 
variety. 

B. Round or Flat Varieties 

Early White Flat Dutch Garden Turnip. — Root a broad disc 
shape, often sinuated and not regularly rounded in outline, 4 or 5 in. 
in its greatest diameter, and about i\ in. in depth ; flesh white, 
tender, not very sugary, and of good quality ; leaves half-erect, 
lyrate, and divided at the base as far as the midrib. This is a 




Early White Flat Dutch Garden White Strap-leaved American Stone Turnip 
Turnip (i natural size). (-^ natural size). 



merely rests on the surface of the ground, into which it does not 
sink farther than by sending down a slender perpendicular tap-root, 
which does not ramify until it reaches a certain depth. 

White Strap-leaved American Stone Turnip. — This variety 
differs chiefly from the Early White Flat Turnip in having shorter 
leaves with an oblong entire blade, which is toothed on the margin, 
but not divided or lobed. The root also is slightly thicker and 
rounder. Along with the preceding and the five following 
varieties, this is an excellent kind for forcing. As in the present 



ROUND OR FLAT TURNIP 



741 




instance, we shall often meet with similar varieties which only 
differ from each other in the leaves being divided in the one kind 
and entire in the other. This difference by itself is of no import- 
ance, and is only noteworthy when 
combined with some special recom- 
mendation of earliness or good 
quality. 

Early Red-top Flat Garden 
Turnip. — The root of this variety is 
of the same size and shape as that 
of the Early White Flat Dutch 
Garden Turnip, but differs from it 
in the violet-pink colour of the upper 
part. It is grown and used in exactly 
the same way. In the east of France, 
under the name of Navet a Collet 
Rose de Nancy, a good form of this 
variety is cultivated, which almost 
resembles the Early Purple-top 
Munich Turnip. 

Red-top Strap-leaved American 
Stone Turnip. — A very flat variety, 
and of very regular shape, differing 
from the Early Flat Red-top Turnip 
in having entire leaves, not lobed at the base, and also by being at 
least four or five days earlier. The leaves are erect and stiff, and 
as they are also rather short, this is a very suitable variety for 
frame culture. It has also the merit of forming the roots freely, 
even when grown in spring, and of being slower to run to seed than 
most other Turnips. Yet, notwithstanding all these good qualities, 
it is possible that the Purple-top Milan Turnip may, on account of 

its greater earliness, supersede 
it to some extent for forcing 
purposes. The present variety 
is also often sown in the open 
ground. It was raised in 
America. 

Milan Purple-top Strap- 
leaved Turnip. — This hand- 
some variety is only a form 
of the Red-Top Strap-leaved 
American Turnip, but is so 
distinct that it deserves a 
separate notice. The root is small or medium-sized, very flat, quite 
smooth, pure white on the underground part, and bright violet-red 
on the upper part. The leaves, which are entire, rather erect, and 



Red-top Strap-leaved American 
Stone Turnip (l- natural size). 




Milan Purple-topped Turnip. 



742 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



very short, are few for the size of the root. It is one of the earliest 
varieties known, and is well adapted for forcing, even in spring. 
White Milan Turnip. — Root small, very smooth, flat, entirely 

white, with a slender 
tap-root; leaves small and 
few, undivided, oval. A 
variety of the Purple-top 
Milan Turnip, described 
above, quite as early, as 
well suited for forcing and 
milder in flavour. 

Croissy, or Round 
Early Vertus, Turnip. — 
Root sunk in the ground, 
round, or slightly top- 
shaped, from 24 to 3i in. 
diameter and depth. 




White Milan Turnip. 



and with a tap-root of 
some length ; skin white, smooth ; flesh very white, tender, sugary, 
and very agreeably flavoured ; leaves medium-sized, erect, and light 
green. A very good early variety, and a great favourite with the 
Parisian market-gardeners. It is one of the 
best kinds for forcing. 

Early Six Weeks', or Jersey Lily, 
Turnip. — Extremely smooth shghtly flattened 
root, just half as thick as broad ; underground 
portion white, the upper part cream-white ; 




Croissy, or Round Early 
Vertus, Turnip 
H natural size). 




Jersey Lily Turnip. 



leaves cut ; foliage light and vivid green. Half-early, very neat 
in shape, never producing large roots. A garden, not an agricultural 
Turnip. 



ROUND OR FLAT TURNIP 



743 



White Round 
Epernay Turnip. — A 

very pretty variety ; root 
dull white, spherical or 
top-shaped, resembhng 
somewhat the Jersey 
Lily and the Round 
Vertus Turnip. Flesh 
quite white, firm, sweet; 
leaves few, broad, and 
divided. Remarkably 
early, and for its ex- 
cellent keeping quality 
may be recommended 
for market growing. 

Purple-top White 
Globe Turnip. — Root 
large, quite round, white 
underground, and purple 
on the upper part for 
about one-half of the 
length of the root ; 
leaves very broad, little 
divided, dark green, 
tinged with brown during winter. 





Scarlet Kashmir Turnip. 



White Round Epernay Turnip. 

Of good quality for the table ; 
yields heavy crops, and may 
be recommended also for 
cattle-feeding purposes. 

Scarlet Kashmir Turnip. 
— Root rounded, flattened, 
quite smooth, and a beautiful 
bright red, more like a Radish 
than a Turnip. The flesh is 
white, of good quality, and 
keeps well. A native of 
Kashmir. 

Chirk Castle Black Stone 
Turnip. — Roots rounded, 
flattened, the diameter being 
nearly double the depth — 
usually 4 or 5 in. across and 
about 2 in. deep ; skin of a 
uniform rather deep black or 
a very dark gray ; flesh white, 
firm, close, half-dry, sugary, 
and very well flavoured ; leaves 



744 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



lyrate, very slight, half spreading, and deep green. An early 
variety, of remarkably good quality, and bearing a striking 
resemblance to the Black Turnip Radish. The perceptible 
differences in shape which are often observed in this variety 
depend chiefly upon the extent to which its growth has been 
developed. The root soon ceases to extend itself vertically, and 
then, in proportion as it swells horizontally, it either becomes 
more or less flat or else remains almost spherical. 

Yellow Flat Purple-top Montmagny Turnip.— Root very 
handsome, flat, half-sunk in the ground, dark yellow on the lower 
part and dark violet-red on the upper portion, often 5 or 6 in. in 
diameter, and 3 in. or more deep ; flesh yellow, rather firm, tender. 




natural size). Yellow Purple-top Montmagny Turnip. 



and of very good quality ; leaves medium-sized, lyrate, dark green, 
and generally almost flat upon the ground. This very fine variety, 
which has been raised recently, has already become highly valued 
and much sought after in the neighbourhood of Paris and in 
England. It is productive, half-early, and keeps well. The very 
striking contrast between the yellow and the red parts of the roots 
gives it a very peculiar and pleasing appearance, which, together 
with its earliness and the superior quality of the flesh, are powerful 
recommendations in its favour. It is one of the most agreeably 
flavoured of all the kitchen-garden varieties of Turnips, especially 
when taken young, before it has attained its full size. 

Yellow Dutch Turnip.— The root of this variety is flattened 
at the top, but still comparatively deep, so that it might be con- 
sidered intermediate between the Round and the Flat varieties. 



ROUND OR FLAT TURNIP 



745 



It seldom exceeds 3 or 4 in. in its greatest diameter, while its 
depth or vertical measurement is between 2 and 3 in. Skin 
uniform yellow on the underground portion of the root and light 
green on the upper part ; flesh yellow, tender, sugary ; leaves 
medium-sized, half-erect, and of a light green colour. This is a 
half-late kind, and keeps well. It is one of the best kitchen-garden 
varieties. 

Yellow, or Golden, Maltese Turnip. — Root very much 
flattened at both ends, being about 2 in. deep, and 4 or 5 in. across 
in its widest part ; skin and flesh pale yellow ; neck green, very 
distinctly marked ; leaves rather small and slight, divided, and 
dark green. This is a good half-early variety, but the roots are 
sometimes rather strong flavoured. It is decidedly the flattest 



variety of all the Yellow-fleshed Turnips, amongst which it holds 
the same place that the Early White and Red Turnips occupy 
amongst the White-fleshed kinds. 

Yellow Finland Turnip. — Root perfectly flat and even 
concave underneath, so that the tap-root which descends into the 
ground appears to issue from the centre of a kind of depression or 
cavity ; the upper part, on the contrary, is rather convex or conical 
in outline. The root is seldom large, being usually not more than 
3 or 4 in. in diameter across, and 2 in. or less in depth. Skin very 
smooth, and of a fine golden-yellow colour, as is also the flesh ; 
leaves very short and compact, not much divided, sometimes quite 
entire in the forms imported directly from Finland, This is an 
exceedingly hardy and rather early variety, and very suitable for 
sowing late in autumn. While the roots are young, the flesh is 




Yellow Dutch Turnip. 



Yellow, or Golden, Maltese Turnip 
(i natural size). 



746 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



very fine and agreeably flavoured, but afterwards it becomes 
somewhat strong and unpleasantly bitter. 

Orang-e Jelly Turnip (English synonyms : Golden Ball and 
Robertson's Golden Stone Turnip). — Root 
perfectly spherical when not very much 
grown, but slightly flattened when it has 
attained its full size ; it is then generally 
4 or 5 in. in diameter every way. Skin 
very smooth and yellow ; flesh yellow, soft, 
and well flavoured, but slightly bitter ; 
leaves of medium height, rather broad 




Yellow Finland Turnip 
(i natural size). 




Orange Jelly Turnip. 



lyrate. This variety is half-early, and highly esteemed in Scotland 
and the north of England. 

The following varieties are usually grown for cattle, but may 
also be used for the table if pulled before fully grown : — 

Early Stone, or Stubble, Turnip. — Root somewhat top-shaped, 

slightly flattened, white, 
except on the part over- 
ground, which is usually 
tinged with green, nearly 
5 in. in diameter in the 
widest part when well grown, 
and from to 3! in. deep; 
neck broad ; flesh white, 
tender, sugary, and soft ; 
leaves .stout and tall, erect, 
broad, and not muchdivided. 
Root rather late in attaining 
its full size. This variety 
is most generally grown for feeding cattle, and is seldom sent 
to table, although, when taken young and tender, the roots are of 
good quality. 




Early Stone, or Stubble, I'urnip 



ROUND OR FLAT TURNIP 



747 




Strap-leaved "White Globe Turnip. 

was raised in Anjou, and is especially- 
White Norfolk, or Cornish 
White, Turnip. — Root spherical 
or very slightly flattened at the 
top, pure white, 6 or 7 in. in 
diameter and about 5 in. deep when 
full grown ; flesh white, tender, and 
somewhat watery ; leaves very tall, 
erect or half-erect, with stout stalks 
or midribs. This is a very late 
variety, and is exclusively grown 
in the fields. There is a sub-variety 
of it, the Green-top Norfolk Turnip, 
in which the overground part of 
the root is of a green colour ; 
and another, the Red-top Norfolk 
Turnip, in which the same part is 
of a reddish violet colour. There 
is hardly any difference between 
these and the White variety in the 
size of the root or in the manner 
of growing them. All these kinds 
should be sown very early to attain 



Strap - leaved White 
Globe Turnip. — Root of 
regular spherical shape ; 
skin very smooth and en- 
tirely white, except where 
it is marked by a few scars 
around the neck, indica- 
ting the positions of the 
earliest leaves; flesh white, 
firm, and close grained ; 
leaves long, erect, entire, 
of a very long oval shape, 
toothed on the margin, 
and of a rather pale or 
light green colour ; neck 
very short and fine. One 
of the characteristics of 
this variety is the quick- 
ness with which the root 
becomes spherical. When 
fully grown it measures 
about 5 or 6 in. in 
diameter. This variety 
suitable for field culture. 




Norfolk Turnip. 



748 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



their full size, and consequently they only succeed well where the 
climate is moist and cool, or where the weather in summer is not 
very dry. Nothing, in fact, is more injurious to Turnips than dry, 
hot weather, which causes destructive insects to become more 
active in their ravages, while the growth of the plants is at the 
same time, so to say, suspended by it. While it lasts, they form 
no new leaves, and those which they already have are riddled into 
holes and almost entirely destroyed by the Turnip-fly, to the great 
injury of the growth of the roots. 

Early Red-top Flat Auvergne Turnip.— Root very flat on 
the top, about 2 in. deep, and often 6 or 7 in. across ; skin very 
smooth, and a rather pale violet-red for the whole of the upper 
portion of the root ; flesh white, rather soft and watery ; leaves tall, 

divided, broad, and numerous. This 
is a very productive variety, and 
succeeds best in granitic or schistose 
soils. It is more grown for feeding 
cattle than for table use. 

The local strains of Auvergne 
Turnip are very numerous and 
cannot well be divided into early 
or late sorts ; the beautiful Lezoiix 
variety is an example of this : it 
is quite flat below and above, about 
three times as broad as it is thick, 
and attains the size of a Basque 
beret or cap, which it resembles in 
shape. In a sense it is early, as it 
bulbs rapidly, but, on the other hand, 
it takes a long time to develop fully. 

Late Auvergne Turnip. — Root 
two-thirds sunk in the ground, top- 
shaped, but tolerably flattened, 3 or 4 in. deep, and about 6 in. 
across ; the upper portion is of a violet-red, or rather dark bronzy 
colour ; leaves broad and stout, more tufty in growth and darker 
in colour than those of the Early variety. This variety is even 
more suitable for field culture than the preceding one, being 
seldom grown for table use outside of its native district. The 
central plateau of France, on account of its elevated position, 
possesses a climate very favourable to the cultivation of large- 
sized Turnips, and there we find the two largest kinds of Turnips 
that are grown in France, namely, the Auvergne and the Limousin 
varieties. 

The Ayres Turnip, which is grown in the departments of Tarn 
and Tarn-et-Garonne, appears to us to be identical with the Late 
Auvergne Turnip. 




Late Auvergne Turnip (i natural size). 



TURNIPS 



749 



Limousin Turnip. — Root roundish or slightly top-shaped when 
young or badly grown, very large, broad, and slightly flattened on 
the top when fully grown, when it not unfrequently measures lO in. 

in its greatest diameter 
and at least 6 in. in 
depth ; skin smooth, en- 
tirely white; flesh white, 
not very sugary ; leaves 
very large and tall. This 
variet}^ is only grown in 
the fields. As it is a 
late kind, it is especially 
adapted for cool, moist 
climates, where it can be 
sown in June. It is the 
largest and most pro- 
ductive of the Turnips 
which are grown in 
France. 

In addition to the 
mention the following :— 
Amber Globe Turnip.— Root almost round or, more usually, 
top-shaped, pale yellow, with a green neck ; leaves entire, lon< 

An American 




Limousin Turnip (i natural size), 

foregoing varieties we may also 



and light-coloured ; flesh pale, sugary, 
highly esteemed in the United States. 

American Strap-leaved Turnip.— Comes 
very near the White Globe Strap-leaved 
Turnip, having, like it, a white, rounded root, 
slightly top-shaped, and large, entire leaves. 

Briollay Turnip. — This variety, which 
was raised in Anjou, bears some resemblance 
to the White Tankard Turnip, but is smaller, 
shorter, thicker, and deeply sunk in the 
ground. It is also of better quality and 
more suitable for table use, being a true 
kitchen-garden Turnip and not a cattle- 
feeding variety, although it is often used for 
that purpose, as all other kinds of Turnips 
are when they have grown too large. 

Clairefontaine Turnip. — Root spindle- 
shaped, straight, smooth, grayish white, rising 
little from the ground ; flesh white and tender. 
Suitable for growing in ordinary soil, less delicate and less exacting 
than the Vertus Turnip. 

Cruzy Turnip. — A very distinct variety. It is the only dry- 
fleshed Turnip which has a perfectly flat root. Skin a gray-white. 




Long Briollay Turnip. 



750 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



The root is nearly twice as broad as deep, and is often irregular in 
shape. 

Early Chantenay Turnip. — This very much resembles the 
Chirk Castle Black Turnip, like which it has the root tolerably 
flattened, but is not so deeply coloured, being more gray than 
black. 

Early Snowball Turnip. — An early kind, with a globular or 
slightly flattened root of a pure white colour. It differs from the 
Early Stone Turnip in having no green colouring around the neck. 

Gray Flat Russian Turnip. — Root tolerably flattened, fully 
one-third broader than deep, with an iron-gray skin marked trans- 
versely with whitish lines. A hardy variety, but not superior to 
the Chirk Castle Black Turnip. 

Gray Luc Turnip.— A small dry-fleshed Turnip, with a long 
root, tolerably like the Freneuse Turnip, but with the skin some- 
what more wrinkled and grayish. 

Gray Saulieu Turnip. — Root spindle-shaped, resembling that 
of a half-long pointed Carrot, four times as long as broad ; skin 
gray, somewhat wrinkled ; flesh firm, dry, sugary, and slightly 
yellow. 

Green-top Six-weeks' Turnip. — Root flattened, fully a third 
broader than deep, often growing to a considerable size, white on 
the underground part and green at the neck ; flesh white, tender, 
sugary, and rather firm. Ripens early. 

Malteau Turnip. — Root elongated, of a long ovoid shape, 
shorter and thicker than that of the Freneuse Turnip, which it 
resembles in its leaves and in the texture of the flesh of the root, 
which is very dry and firm. A good variety, and still prett}' largely 
grown in the vicinity of Paris. 

Nancy Flat Purple-top Turnip. — A handsome form of the 
Early Flat Purple-top Turnip, remarkable for its earliness, the 

regularity of its shape, and the 
very deep colour of the upper 
part of the root. It hardly differs 
from the Munich Turnip, which 
even surpasses it in earliness. 

Petrosowodsk's Purple 
Turnip. — A violet - coloured 
variety of the Finland Turnip, 
^ , . , ^ . and similar in shape, having the 

Purple-top Munich 1 urnip. i j j • • 

^ same marked depression m the 

under-part of the root around the tap-root. The leaves are 
sometimes lyrate and sometimes entire. 

Purple-top Munich Turnip. — Remarkably early, resembling in 
shape and size the Early Flat Red-top Turnip, but violet in colour, 
deepening to purple in the part above ground. 




TURNIPS 



751 




Purple-top Scotch, or Tweeddale's Improved, Turnip. — A 

sub-variety of the Yellow Aberdeen, differing only from that in the 
purple colour of the neck. 

Round Green-top Dry-fleshed Turnip. — Root globular, slightly 
flattened, rather resembling that of the Des Vertus or Croissy 
Round Turnip, but distinguished by the green tint of the neck and 
the flesh of the root being as firm and 
dry as that of the Freneuse Turnip. 
The leaves are deeply lobed, half- 
spreading on the ground, and of a 
light green colour. This is a half-early 
variety and keeps well. 

Sablons Round White Turnip. — 
Root ovoid, one-third longer than 
broad, rather like that of the Croissy 
Round Turnip in every respect except 
its shape ; flesh white, close, sugary, 
and half-dry. 

Scaribritsch Turnip. — Root flat- 
tened, clean skinned, and regular in 
shape, one-fourth broader than deep ; 
neck fine, green-coloured ; the re- 
mainder of the root yellow ; flesh 
yellowish white, tender, firm, and 
sugary ; leaves very light in colour. 

Scarlet Gratscheff s Turnip. — The same in shape as the Yellow 
Finland Turnip, but somewhat larger, more flattened below, and 
bright purple in colour. 

Schaarbeck Turnip. — This variety is grown in the neighbour- 
hood of Brussels, where it is highly esteemed. It is a flat white 
variety with a green neck, early and small sized, with flesh of fine 
texture and excellent quality. 

White Egg Turnip. — Root ovoid, one-third longer than broad ; 
skin very white and very smooth ; flesh white, firm. This variety 
is highly thought of in the United States, where it is to be met 
with in large quantities in the markets. 

Wolton's Hybrid Turnip. — Root almost perfectly spherical, 
sometimes slightly pear-shaped, entirely white on the part under- 
ground, and red on the upper part ; flesh white, tender, and mild ; 
leaves broad. Ripens half-early. 

Yellow Aberdeen Turnip. — Root spherical or slightly 
flattened, yellow, tinged with green above ground ; flesh 
light yellow, rather firm ; leaves large, half-erect, smooth, dark 
green. 

Yellow Bortsfeld Turnip. — This differs from the ordinary 
Long Yellow Turnip by being more slender in shape, by growing 



Round Green-top Dry-fleshed 
Turnip (-^ natural size). 



752 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



not so deeply sunk in the ground, and having the neck a greenish 
colour. Its quality is good and it keeps well. 

Yellow Globe Turnip. — An American variety, coming very 
near the Yellow Dutch, but somewhat paler in colour and more 
spherical in shape. 

Yellow Scotch Turnip. — An early variety, with a spherical 
or slightly flattened root, rather pale yellow in colour, and some- 
times tinged with green at the neck. Root very clean skinned, 
almost entirely sunk in the ground ; flesh pale yellow, tender, and 
sugary. 

Yellow Tankard Turnip. — An English variety, with an 
elongated spindle-shaped root which is twice as long as broad, and 
pale yellow, except at the neck, which projects slightly from the 
ground and is greenish. Flesh pale yellow, close grained, and of 
a mild flavour. Ripens early. 



UNICORN-PLANT 

Mariynia, Lindl. SesamacecB. 

Fretich, Martynia. German, Gemsenhorner. 

The plants of this genus are tall, stout, vigorous annuals. 
Stem fleshy, \\ to i| in. in diameter ; leaves large, heart-shaped, 

gray-green, and somewhat hairy; flowers 
large, resembling those of a Catalpa in 
shape, and yellow or lilac, according to 
the species ; fruit long, ovoid, curved, 
and terminating in a long hooked point, 
and enclosed in a soft green kind of 
shell, which dries up when ripe, the 
fruit then becoming woody and blackish, 
and the extremity dividing into two 
long crooked horns, as it opens to allow 
the seed to escape ; seeds large, black, 
with an irregular rough or shagreened 
surface. Their germinating power lasts 
for one or two years. 
Culture. — These plants require a good amount of heat, and 
it is advisable to sow the seed in a hot-bed and either allow the 
plants to complete their growth there or plant them out in good 
soil in a warm place. 

Uses. — The fruit, gathered while young and tender, is pickled 
in vinegar. It should be gathered when not more than half-grown, 
as, after that, it becomes too tough and leathery. 

The Yellow-flowered species {M. lutea), is a native of Brazil, 
and is a plant of moderate size, somewhat trailing in habit, and 




Unicorn-plant (-^ natural size). 



UNICORN-PLANT 



753 



yielding an abundance of small-sized fruit. It is the kind most 
I grown for pickling in the United States. 

I M. proboscidea, Glox., a violet-flowered species, has fruit of 
i larger size and with longer horns. It is a native of Louisiana. 

AFRICAN VALERIAN 

Fedia Cornucopice, Gaertn. ValerianacecB. 

I French, Valeriana d' Alger. German^ Algerischer Baldrian. Fle77iish, Speenkruid. 
j Dutch, Speerkruid. 

Native of Algeria.— Annual.— Stems erect, branching, smooth, 
: I ft. to 1 6 in. high ; leaves almost all radical, oval-oblong, entire, 
'; bluntly toothed, and a rather dark, shining green ; flowers pink in 

terminal clusters ; seeds 

yellow or grayish, oblong, 

thick, convex on one side, 

and marked on the other 

with a deep longitudinal 

furrow. Their germina- 
ting power lasts for four 

years. The seed may be 

sown in the open ground, 

from April to August, in 

drills 10 to 12 in. apart. 

When thinned out and 

plentifully watered in 

hot weather, the plants tt i • ^ i • > 

. , , . ' ^ - African Valerian (i natural size). 

quickly form rosettes oi 

leaves, which are fit for use in about two months after sowing. 
The plant is somewhat sensitive to cold, and is not so suitable 
for sowing in autumn as the Corn-salad. It is often grown for 
ornament. The leaves are eaten as salad. 

WATER-CHESTNUT 

Trapa nutans^ L. Haloragacece. 

French, Macre. German, Wasser-Nuss. Flemish and Dutch, Waternoot. Spanish, 

Nueis. 

Native of S. Europe. — Annual. — An aquatic plant with a long 
stem which reaches to the surface of the water. Submerged leaves 
opposite ; floating leaves alternate and arranged in a rosette at the 
top of the stem ; blade of the leaf diamond-shaped, broader than 
long ; flowers white, axillary ; fruit large, dark gray, bearing four 
very stout spines arranged cross-wise, two of them being much 
longer than the others. The germinating power of the fruit does 

48 




754 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



not last longer than one year, and to ensure even this they must 
be kept in water. The plant is not usually cultivated, the fruit 




Water Chestnut (xV natural size). Fruit (natural size). 



being gathered where it grows wild. The kernel of the fruit, which 
is floury and of a very agreeable flavour, is eaten boiled. 



WOODRUFF 

Asperula odorata, L. Rubiacece. 

French, Asperule odorante. Gerjuan, Waldmeister. Dutch, Lieve vrouw bedstroo. 

Native of Europe. —Perennial. — This plant is chiefly found in 
woods or shady places. Stems weak, prostrate,- bearing whorls of 

oval-lanceolate leaves which are finely 
toothed on the margin, and very rough 
to the touch, as are also the stems ; flowers 
small, pure white, with four divisions, 
and growing together in a spreading 
corymb ; seed almost spherical, gray, 
and bristling with a large number of 
very small recurved points. The whole 
plant exhales a very agreeable perfume, 
especially when dried. The Woodruff is 
seldom cultivated except as an ornamental 
plant. It is perfectly hardy, and grows 
well either in a bed or as an edging, 
if planted in good moist soil in a half- 
shady position. In the north of Europe 
the leaves are sometimes used to flavour beverages. 




WoodrufF ( natural size ; 
detached flowers, natural size). 



WORMWOOD 

Artemisia Absinthium, L. Compositce. 

French, Absinthe. German, Wermuth. Flemish, Alsem. Danish, Malurt. Italian,. 
Assenzio. Spanish, Ajenjo. 

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — This plant is often grown in 
gardens on account of its medicinal properties. Stems 3 to 5 ft. 



WORMWOOD 



755 



high, rough, and branching ; leaves numerous, small, very much 
divided, and a gray colour, especially underneath ; flowers green, 
not at all striking, borne 
in clusters at the ends of 
the branches ; seed gray, 
very small. Its germi- 
nating power lasts for four 
years on an average. 

Culture. — Worm- 
wood may be multiplied 
either from seed or from 
cuttings or divisions of 
the roots. If planted in 
a somewhat sheltered 
position, the plants will 
be less likely to suffer in 
very severe winters. They 
require no other care, and 
will continue productive 
for ten years or longer. 

Uses. — The leaves 
are sometimes used for 
flavouring, but the plant 
is chiefly employed in 
liqueurs. 




Wormwood. 

the manufacture of various kinds of 



YAM (CHINESE) 

Dioscorea Batatas^ Dene. Dioscoreacece. 

French, Tgname de la Chine. German, Chinesische Yam. Spanish, Name, Igname. 

Native of China. — Perennial. — The Yam was introduced into 
France in 1848, through the agency of M. de Montigny, the 
French Consul at Shanghai. It is a perfectly hardy plant, with 
annual, twining, smooth, green or violet-coloured stems, from 6 to 
nearly 10 ft. long. Leaves opposite, heart-shaped, with a rather 
long point, of a dark green colour, and very glossy on the upper 
surface ; flowers dioecious, very small, white, growing in clusters 
from the axils of the leaves, and generally barren. Sometimes, 
instead of flowers, small tubers or bulblets are produced, from 
which the plants may be propagated. The stems trail along the 
ground, if they do not find some support on which they can climb. 
In climbing, they twine from right to left. From the neck of 
the root issue rhizomes of great length, which, as they descend into 
the ground, become swollen into somewhat of a club shape. The 
flesh is slightly milky, and very floury w^hen cooked. The rhizomes 



756 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



are furnished with numerous rootlets and almost imperceptible 
buds, from each of which a plant may be produced. They descend 
almost perpendicularly into the ground, attaining a length of from 
2 to over 3 ft, their growth being most active in the latter end of 
autumn. Being perfectly hardy, they may be left in the ground 
during the winter, and will increase very much in size in the course 

of the second year, but their 
quality is not then so good 
as at the end of the first 
year. The lifting of the 
rhizomes is a rather difficult 
and expensive operation, as 
they are rather brittle, and, 
in order to take them up 
whole, the ground must 
often be dug to the depth 
of a yard or more round 
each root. This is probably 
the reason why the plant 
is so little cultivated in 
Europe, as it is very hardy 
and productive, and the 
rhizomes will compare 
favourably with Potatoes. 
The flesh is white, light in 
texture, mild in flavour and 
easily cooked. The rhizomes 
keep well and for a very 
long time. 

Culture. — The Yam 
succeeds well in very good, 
moist, and sufficiently dug 
soil, and may be propagated 
by means of the axillary 
bulblets, or from rhizomes, 
either whole or cut into 
portions. The method which 
generally produces the most 
certain and abundant results 
to 10 in. long and about 




Chinese Yam (-J natural size.j 



is to plant whole rhizomes, from 
as thick as one's finger. It is advisable to furnish the plants 
with stakes or other supports to climb on, as the ground is 
then more easily hoed. In very dry weather, watering is very 
beneficial, as the Yam likes moisture and stops growing when it has 
not a sufficient supply of it. In November the time arrives for 
lifting the rhizomes, and if the soil is deep and rich enough; one 



YAM (CHINESE) 



757 



may expect to meet with some which are thicker than the wrist 
towards the end and weigh over two pounds each. Smaller ones 
also are usually found which are better for planting. Instead of 
planting them at once in the open ground, they may first be potted 
about the beginning of March, and planted out about May 15th. 
The crop then comes in earlier, and is also heavier. 

Many attempts have been made to raise a variety of Yam with 
shorter roots which would not penetrate so far into the ground. 
These attempts cannot be said to have entirely failed ; on the 
contrary, they have succeeded too well, as varieties have been 
raised with nearly round rhizomes, clustered around the neck of 
the plant, but of such feeble growth that the season's yield only 
represented three times the weight of the rhizomes which were 
planted. A productive variety of Yam with short roots still 
remains to be discovered, and perhaps may be found amongst the 
numerous varieties lately imported from Japan, and which arc now 
being experimented on in France. The rhizomes are eaten like 
Potatoes, boiled, fried, and prepared in various ways. 



ADDENDUM 

BY W. P. THOMSON 



ARTICHOKE (JERUSALEM) 

There is now a white variety of this which is a great improve- 
ment on the type. The improvement Hes in the fact that the 
white form not being so rugged is far more easily prepared, thus 
saving a great deal of trouble which follows when the old purple 
variety is used. If a careful selection of the tubers is made and 
good cultivation given, the roots of the white form may be still 
further improved in shape, while the quality also will be better. 

In reference to the popular and common name of this 
vegetable it is not an artichoke at all, but a perennial sunflower — 
HeliantJius tuberosus being the Latin name. The word Jerusalem 
given to the root of a sunflower is a stupid corruption. To try 
to find out if possible a good English name the editor of one of 
our gardening papers started a competition inviting readers to 
send in a suitable name. The competition was very brisk, and 
the name Sunroot was by the judges considered the best. For 
clear and simple English and true meaning the word Sunroot is 
a very appropriate one, but we doubt whether the word will come 
into general use. In the growing of the Sunroot good culture is 
all-important. We were recently consulted as to the reason of the 
tubers being poor and of very inferior quality. On inquiring as to 
the cultivation it was clear that there had been no cultivation at 
all. The tubers had been planted thickly in poor soil in an out- 
of-the-way part of the garden, and had been left to shift for 
themselves. If under this maltreatment the plants get so crowded 
that the leafage can get no light and air, it is but little wonder 
that tubers are poor. The ground for the Sunroot must be deeply 
trenched and given a good dressing of manure, fair even-sized 
tubers being planted in February or March, in rows 24 in. apart 
with 12 in. between the tubers in the row. 

BEANS (CLIMBING FRENCH) 

These are gradually becoming more popular, and within recent 
years many excellent and prolific varieties have been introduced. 

758 



BEANS 



759 



The chief advantage gained in their cultivation when compared 
with the dwarf-growing kinds is that, like the Scarlet Runner 
Bean, they yield a continuous succession of pods over a long 
period, and the necessity for making frequent sowings is therefore 
dispensed with. From a cultural point of view the\' require 
precisely the same treatment as dwarf French Beans, the only 
difference being that as the plants attain a height of 5 to ft., 
and have therefore to be supported with long rods or pea boughs, 
it is necessary to allow a distance of some 4 to 5 ft. between 
the rows. 

Owing to their being capable of producing pods successively, 
they are, where accommodation exists, of great value for forcing 
under glass,, the plants being grown either in pots 12 in. in 
diameter or in narrow borders of soil, in which case the growths 
may be trained to strings or bamboo canes. 

The following are reliable varieties : — 

Fillbasket. — A very productive variety. One of the best of 
this type of French Bean. Quality first-rate. 

Tender and True. — An excellent variety and very prolific. 
Earliest of All. — A first-rate early kind to grow for first crop. 

BEET (A NON-BLEEDINGj 

The great drawback to the careless handling of Beet is that 
if bruised in any way it is ver\' liable to bleed when being cooked, 
and thus the rich colour of that best of all Beets — Cheltenham 
Gree7i Top — is spoiled. During the last few years a variety known 
as Galloujay Purple has been put into commerce. This variety 
may be cut in two before cooking and will not lose colour, a 
decided gain. 

CABBAGE 

Sowing and Planting. — The most important sowings of 
Cabbage are those which are required to furnish a supply of plants 
through the spring, early summer, and autumn months. These 
sowings should consist of several varieties that succeed each other 
in coming into use. \'ery early kinds should not be sown too 
early in summer, as there is a possibility of their running to seed in 
dry weather. From the third week in July to the second and third 
weeks in August is the time usually chosen for sowing to obtain 
plants for setting out in autumn, these coming into use in spring, 
the time varying according to the season, soil, and locality. As a 
general rule the latter end of July and the early part of August are 
found to be the best time for sowing. Plants from seed sown at 
that time are generally ready to plant out by the end of September 
or beginning of October, and they then have ample time to get 
established before winter sets in. For autumn supply a sowmg 



760 



ADDENDUM 



should be made from the middle of March to the second week in 
April, and if the resulting plants are set out in June and July 
they will then come into use in August and September. If a 
second and larger sowing be made in the last week of April and 
the plants set out in July and August they will come into use 
from October to December. A sowing of a dwarf kind that hearts 
quickly made in May and again in June will furnish plants yielding 
nice little heads for use from October onwards, which with the 
greens produced from the stumps of those that have previously 
been cut will last until Spring Cabbage comes in. Two excel- 
lent varieties for this purpose are the Londoji Rosette Colen'ort 
Cabbage and the Hardy Winter Colezvort, the latter being the 
more suitable for winter use. Cabbage plants intended to stand 
the winter are best put out in firm ground which has been enriched 
for a previous crop, such as that which has previously carried a 
crop of Onions or other surface-rooting plants which have not 
impoverished the soil too much, The ground must of course have 
been well manured for the previous crop or good results cannot be 
expected. A firm stiff rich soil is best for Cabbages, for if grown 
in loose light soil they do not heart so well, neither is the quality 
so good. 

Cabbage seed should be sown on light rich land or on that 
approaching more nearly to such a condition, and the plants should 
not be allowed to overcrowd each other before they are set out. 
As soon as large enough to handle, the seedlings should be pricked 
out from 6 to 8 inches apart, or be thinned out and the remainder 
transferred to their final positions as soon as they are sufficiently 
large. The distance to plant Cabbage apart depends on the 
variety grown ; but from iS in. to 2 ft. between the rows, and 
from 15 in. to iS in. between the plants in the rows, will generally 
be found sufficient if the ground is in good heart. 

Cutting. — A little more attention should be paid to this than 
is usually the case, as when a commencement to cut is too long 
deferred a great waste ensues. Supposing Cabbages of such 
varieties as will begin to turn in from the early part of March till 
the beginning of summer are planted in autumn, it is folly to wait 
until the heads in each particular instance become firm or hard 
before commencing to cut them, as a great man\- will, unless the 
demand is equal to the supply, then burst, go to seed, or rot. To 
obviate this, cutting should begin as soon as the hearts start to 
form on the more forward of the plants ; and as the stems will 
break and put forth sprouts which will ultimatel\- form hearts, no 
loss but a gain really accrues, as they will be fit for cutting before 
or by the time the first crop of heads is finished. It is the rule in 
many gardens to reserve the main lot of old plants, after the hearts 
have been cut in spring, for the purpose of securing a yield of the 



CABBAGE 



hearted sprouts referred to over a long period. That the supply- 
may be an abundant one care is taken at the first cutting to 
remove no more than the heart portion or such as is actually- 
required for cooking, as the greater number of leaves left on the 
stems the more plentiful will be the yield of sprouts, or " collards " 
as they are sometimes termed. If the ground is well stirred and a 
good mulch of short rotten manure or a dressing of a suitable 
fertiliser applied, the plants will continue yielding a succession of 
sprouts for nearly a whole year round. To sum up : cut Cabbages, 
even if you have to give them away, before the hearts get too far 
advanced or too fully developed, when there will always be a con- 
tinuance of young and tender heads coming on. 

The Cabbage is one of the most important of green vegetables 
for market-garden culture, and although not considered by many 
so profitable on account of its gross feeding character, it comes into 
use when there is little else to send to market, and often realises 
high prices. In spring large areas of Cabbages may be seen in the 
various market gardens round about London. Those sent to 
market in April, May, and June are the produce of seed sown in 
July, the plants being put out in September or early in October. 
Successional crops are raised in spring as soon as the weather is 
favourable. If sown too soon the young leaves become damaged 
by frosts, especially if these occur after a period of mild 
weather. 

Enfield Market is grown extensively in the market gardens 
about London. It is one of the oldest in cultivation and one of 
the best, and for this reason growers generally save their own seed 
and take great care that their stocks of it do not get crossed with 
other sorts. The sowing for the principal crop of this variety is 
generally made about the end of July and up to the middle of 
August, on poor ground if possible, as in that case the plants come 
up stocky and hardy and stand the winter well. On rich ground a 
soft rank growth results which is more susceptible to injury. The 
sowing is as a rule made in beds 4 ft. in width, which is found to 
be more convenient for hoeing and weeding. When large and 
strong enough to be transplanted the plants are set out on ground 
cleared of Onions or Potatoes, and a second batch on ground 
cleared of Celery, French Beans, or Vegetable Marrows. Every 
vacant space, under fruit trees or elsewhere, is planted with 
Cabbages.* In planting, the ground is lined off into rows 30 in. 
apart, and in these the plants are set 15 in. asunder. Between 
every two rows another is then put in, thus making the whole of 
the plants stand 15 in. apart each way. Early in spring the 
alternate rows of plants and every other plant in the lines are 
pulled and sold as Coleworts. This admits of the permanent crop 
having ample space for development and coming to maturity. 



762 



ADDENDUM 



With a view to subsequent plantations, which are made all through 
the winter wherever ground becomes vacant, the young plants are 
taken from the seed bed and pricked out into other beds some 5 
in. to 6 in. apart in order to keep them fit for planting. In this 
way many of the plants are kept till spring, when they are set out 
to form a succession to those planted in autumn, and to come in 
before the produce of the spring sowings made late in February or 
early in March to furnish Cabbages from June to August. The 
plants from this sowing are put out in lines 2 ft. to 2J ft. apart, and 
in the intervening spaces are put lines of Lettuces, a plant of which 
is also put between every other Cabbage in the rows. In May the 
tying up of early Cabbages may often be observed in market 
gardens round London and elsewhere. This is done in a similar 
manner to that adopted in the case of Cos Lettuces. The outer 
leaves are carefully folded round the hearts and the whole secured 
with a withy or piece of bast or raffia. There are several good 
reasons for the practice. The hearts being protected from the 
weather develop more quickly than they would otherwise do, and 
are more easily handled in gathering and packing for market. 
Early Cabbages, the leaves of which are very brittle, would lose 
half their value if some precaution of this kind were not taken to 
prevent damage being done in the loading and unloading. 

Red Cabbages are sown in March and July, but the best 
produce is obtained from sowings made in the latter month 
both in private and market gardens. The plants in the latter 
case are set out in rows ft. to 4 ft. apart, and the plants 
stand about 3 ft. asunder in the rows. As this crop stands until 
the heads are large and solid, a piece of rich ground is devoted to 
it and intercropped with Potatoes, ordinary Cabbages, Lettuces, 
French Beans, or other vegetables of a similar nature. 

Varieties. — In addition to the varieties illustrated and de- 
scribed in the body of the work, the following are deserving of 
mention, as they represent the best types of Cabbages in culti- 
vation at the present day : — 

Harbinger. — This, without doubt, is one of the earliest 
Cabbages for spring use. From a sowing made late in July, small 
compact hearts may be had in favoured districts ready for cutting 
late in February or early in March. The growth is small and 
compact, and the plants can be set out as close as 15 in., both 
between and in the rows. It is of first-rate quality. It is an ideal 
Cabbage for private gardens, and one of the best for autumn sowing. 

Early April. — A distinct early Cabbage much larger than the 
preceding, compact in growth and coming into use, as its name 
denotes, early in April. Excellent for autumn sowing. 

Ellam's Early. — A valuable early variety coming into use in 
mid April and early in May. Growth more spreading than in the 



CABBAGE 



763 



preceding varieties, hearts from medium to large in size, according 
to soil. Good for autumn sowing. 

Flower of Spring. — A fine early Cabbage for April and May 
supply ; similar in habit of growth to the last-named variety, and 
forming compact well-shaped hearts of first-rate quality. First- 
rate for autumn sowing. 

Wheeler's Imperial. — An excellent early variety in every 
respect, and much esteemed by many growers for spring cutting. 
It should be sown in autumn for the latter purpose. 

Early Offenham. — A Cabbage much grown for early cutting 
by market growers round London and in other parts of the country. 

Early Rainham. — Like the preceding, this is an excellent 
Cabbage for market, and like that variety should be sown in autumn. 

Improved Nonpareil.— One of the best for autumn cutting. 

Main-crop. — Excellent for late autumn use. 

Christmas Drumhead. — A fine variety for cutting in mid-winter. 

Winnig"stadt. — This is a very fine cabbage and very distinct, 
but it is not by any means fitted for early spring use as some 
people are led to believe. If sown in the autumn and planted 
out with the idea that they will come in in the spring, the result 
will be very disappointing. The plants grow to a great size, but 
form no hearts, and consequently are of no value. If seeds, 
however, are sown in May or June and the plants given a 
good larder, fine hearts will in due course be formed, and which 
will come into use from November to January, and be found 
of excellent quality. In our opinion this early winter cabbage 
is superior to Savoys, which, however, are useful later. By growing 
Winnigstadt there is no need for early Savoys, which are in our 
opinion not required until January, after they have been exposed 
to the frost, the quality then being very much improved in that 
the rank flavour is absent. 

London Rosette Colewort.— The best for autumn and early 
winter use. 

Hardy Green Colewort. — A fine variety for winter use. 

ONIONS FOR EXHIBITION 

Those who grow the handsome bulbs now forthcoming at our 
vegetable shows up and down the country in the autumn, 
purchase now, or as soon as the seeds can be had, a packet of a 
good stock oi Ailsa Craig^ Cranston's Excelsior or Premier. Then 
early in February growers for exhibition get one or two shallow 
wooden boxes according to the number of plants required, bore 
holes in the bottom for drainage, and put into each a layer of rotten 
leaves or well-broken horse-droppings with on top an inch or more, 
as the case may be, of rich soil with which has been well mixed 
some sharp silver sand. Be careful as to the sowing of the seed. 



764 



ADDENDUM 



The usual way is to use a very small stick or a pencil with which 
to make holes a quarter of an inch deep and about half an inch 
apart all over the surface of each box, dropping one seed into each, 
covering them up and watering through a fine rose, then standing 
in a frame close up to the glass and keeping close until the 
seedlings appear. If the sun shines strongly it is advisable to 
shade the boxes in order to prevent the soil becoming too dry. 
Directly the seedlings appear, give all the light possible, and thus 
encourage the plants to become stocky. During the time the 
seeds are germinating get some other boxes filled in the same way 
as above detailed, and when the seedling onions are, say, 4 in. high 
lift each one carefully, so that none of the roots are injured, and 
dibble them into the newly filled boxes 2 inches apart each way. 
Return the boxes to the frame and keep close until the young 
plnnts are growing freely, and when they have got a good root- 
hold they may have plenty of air. Towards the end of April or 
in the early days of May the plants, after having been well 
hardened off, may be carefully lifted from the boxes with a hand- 
fork or a trowel and planted out in rows 18 in. apart and 10 in. 
apart in the rows. 

The ground in which these large exhibition bulbs are to be 
grown should have been in the previous winter or in the early 
spring trenched to a depth of from 24 in. to 30 in — as Onions are 
very deep rooting — and had worked into it, not only well down, 
but also near the surface, a good dressing of well-rotted manure, 
choosing cow manure if the soil is inclined to be light. This 
should have been done some few weeks before the time for 
planting out the Onions comes, in order that the soil may settle 
down. When the young plants are growing freely, and the 
weather is dry, occasional doses of liquid manure are very 
beneficial and help swell the bulbs. Nitrate of soda is also good, 
but it should be given at the rate of no more than 2 lb. per rod, 
as it is apt to encourage leafage and softness of the bulbs. Top 
dressings of soot are very helpful, but such are in our opinion 
better when worked into the soil when the ground is being 
prepared. As was said above, Onions are very deep rooting in 
well-trenched soil, and cases have been known where the roots 
were found at a depth of 2 ft. In the case of Onions there is no 
need to grow them in fresh quarters every year, in fact we know 
of a gardener who never used to even dig the onion quarter, the 
soil of which was very light. After the year's onion crop had 
been harvested he used to procure from the home farm fresh cow 
manure and lay it over the onion bed to a thickness of 6 in. 
This was allowed to lie until the time came round in the following 
spring for sowing, when the manure, from which all goodness had 
been washed down into the soil, was raked off, the surface 



PEAS 



765 



levelled, the lines drawn, and the seed sown. This plan was 
followed every year, and there always were fine crops of good- 
sized bulbs which invariably kept well. 

PEAS 

With every suitable appliance the Pea season in the British 
Isles may extend from the middle or end of June until the end of 
October, and in exceptional seasons as late as the second week in 
November. Peas gathered earlier than the period stated are 
grown under glass,^ and the very late peas are, as already stated, 
mainly dependent upon the season. The best months for Peas 
are June, July, and August. In warm situations the produce of 
the early south border begins to turn in about the end of May, 
and green peas are common enough in June, but July and August 
are the months for Marrow Peas. In August and September, 
unless the land is good and the treatment liberal, and first-rate in 
every respect, there is always the possibility of a falling off both 
in regard to crop and quality, so that after July successful returns 
are mainly contingent on good cultivation, as shall be presently 
shown. 

The First Early Peas. — These, where glass is sufficient to 
allow for their culture, will comprise several batches in pots of 
8 in. and 10 in. size. The seed should be sown the first week 
in January, varieties to consist of approved dwarf and half-dwarf 
early kinds. The plants should be brought on steadily in a pit or 
house close to the glass with just the smallest amount of artificial 
warmth, as Peas do not force well. A steady regular growth in 
a very light position, with a temperature never exceeding 45" to 
50° at night, will be best. Ventilation must be given on every 
suitable opportunity. 

The first sowing in the open air may take place the first or 
second weeks in November, provided the locality is favourable 
and the soil well drained and warm. Under less favourable con- 
ditions it is best not to make the first sowing until January, the 
time for doing so varying according to climatic conditions. In 
cold, wet districts February is quite early enough to sow outside. 
Very frequently first early Peas are raised under glass, and when 
hardened off are planted as early in March as the weather permits. 
The seed of some favoured variety is sown in pots, troughs, or on 
sods of turf, and placed in heat, when they soon germinate, when in 
due course the plants are hardened off and planted on a warm 
south border at the time mentioned. A ridge of earth is drawn 
up on each side of the rows as a shelter, and a few evergreen 
boughs are worked in amongst the ordinary sticks to afford 
additional protection. To keep up a regular supply there must 
be frequent sowings. But taking account of, and giving due 



766 



ADDENDUM 



weight to, the fact that first early Peas sown during the months 
of January, February, and the first half of March will not vary 
more than a week or ten days as regards turning in, there is not 
much use in making successional sowings of these alone during 
the period named. The general rule is, after making the first 
sowing, to select and sow two or more varieties such as a first early, 
a second early, and a mid-season one on each occasion, by which 
means a regular succession is assured. It is useless to specify 
when these sowings should take place, as weather conditions at 
that time of year are so variable, but in the last half of March and 
from April onwards it is best to make fortnightly sowings, or to 
sow again as soon as the preceding crop is just through t^e 
ground. 

As to the time when peas may be expected to be ready for use, 
the following dates may be taken as approximately correct. They 
are founded on a good deal of experience and careful note-taking, 
and, making due allowance for the effect of latitude on climate 
and the variations of soil and seasons, may be safely acted upon. 
First early peas sown before Christmas or not later than the first 
week in January to the end of February should be fit to gather the 
last week in May. Those of a second early type sown from the 
end of January to the end of February should be fit to gather from 
June lOth to 20th. A mid-season variety sown from February 20th 
to March loth should be fit for use from June 20th to the middle 
of July. Marrow peas such as VeitcJis Perfection and Ne Plus 
Ultra sown from the middle to the end of March should be ready 
about the middle of July and onwards. The tall Marrows sown 
first and third weeks in April and first and third weeks in May 
should produce a supply from the middle of July till the close of 
the Pea season. Some people sow first and second earlies once or 
twice in June, and the late Marrowfats often do well sown as late 
as the middle of June. 

The Late Marrow Peas. — The crop is so important that 
every expedient should be adopted which can in any way enable 
it to pass through its difficulties without much suffering. Men 
may be seen laboriously watering peas in a hot, dry time when 
less than half the time in preparatory work at the right season 
would have given more satisfactory results. Mark out the sites 
in January or February where they are to be grown, open a trench 
and fill in with a manurial compost — Peas dislike rank manure. 
Save the usual decaying matters which accumulate about a garden, 
mix with a proportion of manure from the stables or pigsty, with a 
little soot, etc., blend the whole together and work it into the trench 
where the peas will by and by be planted. When this is done early 
in the season the compost will have become mellow and in a fit 
condition for the roots of the plants to work into at once. As much 



PEAS 



767 



of the soil taken out of the trench may be thrown back and worked 
up with the compost as will fill the trench to the original level. 
The bottom of the trench should also be broken up. The stations 
for late peas should also be got ready at the same time, and a peg 
driven down at the end of each row, so that when the time arrives 
for sowing all that is necessary is to stretch a line from end to end 
and draw a drill 5 in. to 6 in. in width and 3 in. to 4 in. in depth. 

Sowing and Gathering. — The large Marrow Peas should be 
allowed room to branch out, which must be provided by sowing the 
seed thinly in the drills. From 2 in. to 3 in. apart all over the 
drill is not too much space to allow ; and this will necessitate 
the careful distribution of the seeds individually by hand. In dry 
weather the drills should be soaked with water and the Peas 
covered with the dry soil drawn from the drills. If mice are likely 
to be troublesome, dress the seeds with red lead or else keep traps 
set in the vicinity of the Pea rows. To do late Peas justice the 
rows should when possible run north and south and stand from 
6 ft. up to 21 ft. apart. Dwarf-growing crops of other vegetables 
can be grown between them. Mulching with manure is a useful 
expedient, and in connection with a good preparation of the ground 
at this season should render watering, except in very hot weather, 
unnecessary. The mulch, which should consist of half-decayed 
stable manure or similar material taken from an old hotbed, should 
be spread on either side of the rows of Peas 18 in. or so wide and 
3 in. or 4 in. thick. Gathering should be done carefully and as 
soon as the Peas in the pods are sufficiently large enough for use. 
Allowing them to become too old before doing so not only renders 
them of less value and unpalatable, but by impoverishing the 
plants causes a considerable reduction of crops. In some cases a 
secondary crop of young shoots and blossoms will develop and a 
further yield of Peas, which will be very useful, will be produced. 

Tall and Dwarf Peas. — Dwarf and half-dwarf Peas are very 
useful where sticks or supports cannot easily be obtained ; but 
where sticks do not cost much they are best for the main crop tall 
Peas, which are more prolific. In case of all Peas requiring support — 
and if possible even those of dwarf habit should be supported — the 
sticks should be placed to the rows early and the tops levelled off 
with a pair of shears. The pieces cut off should be used between 
the large sticks at the base to prevent the plants straggling through 
and to induce them to grow in an upright direction. Nearly all 
market gardeners near London grow Peas largely ; and although 
French Peas are sent to market early in May and sold at cheaper 
rates than English growers could afford to produce them, prefer- 
ence is always given to home-grown Peas, for which there is always 
a good demand until about September. Until the end of October, 
however, fine samples of the Ne Plus Ultra type may be obtained 



768 



ADDENDUM 



ready shelled in the market, the produce in many instances of 
Surrey, Bedfordshire, Essex, and adjoining counties, from whence 
comes the great bulk of both early and mid-season Peas to Covent 
Garden.' In making early sowings it is a practice with market 
growers to choose a fine day to break down the ridges (the ground 
having previously been manured and cast into ridges), measure 
off the lines and draw drills in the forenoon, leaving them open 
till the afternoon, so that the soil in them may dry a little and 
become warmer ; then to sow the seeds and cover all up before 
evening. The drills vary from 2 ft, to ft. apart according to 
the vigour of the sorts which are to be sown. W hen the rows are 
close together. Lettuces and Spinach are used as intercrops, but 
when more widely distant from each other Cauliflowers are then 
usually planted. It many instances the first sowing of Peas is 
made in December on a warm border ; but considering they must 
be sown a little deeper than in January, and the risks to which the 
seeds are liable from mice, birds, insects, and damp, it is a much- 
disputed point among good growers whether the December sowing 
has any advantage over that made in January, many contending 
that the produce of the latter is quite as early as that of the former 
and the crop less subject to risks. Different growers have a 
preference for different kinds, but the early dwarf sorts are those 
most grown on account of their quick returns, the small space they 
occupy, and because they require no stakes. 

Peas are seldom staked in market gardens, the haulm being 
allowed to lie on the ground. Gathering is a matter well attended 
to, as the more closely the pods are picked the longer do the plants 
continue to bear. Some market gardeners save their own seed, 
others grow Peas for seed only. In this case the haulm is 
frequently shifted from one side of the row to the other in order to 
prevent the pods from rotting or from being destroyed by slugs, 
snails, etc., and to expose them to the air and sun to cause all to 
ripen alike. When ripe the haulm is pulled up and taken indoors 
and when the seed has become dry it is shelled or thrashed out 
during wet weather. 

Select List of Peas 
Early Dwarf Varieties 
Pioneer. — A first-rate dwarf Pea,height about 2 ft, good cropper. 
Chelsea Gem. — An excellent dwarf kind, height 18 in., good 
cropper. 

English Wonder. — Well-known dwarf Pea, height 2 ft., good 
cropper. 

Taller First Ea?'ly Varieties 
William the First. — A first-rate early round-seeded Pea, 
height 4 to 5 ft., good cropper. 



\ 



PEAS 769 

Bountiful.— A vigorous free-bearing round-seeded variety, 
height 5 ft 

Early Giant. — A first-rate wrinkled marrow, abundant cropper, 
height 5 ft. 

Duchess of York. — A fine early wrinkled marrow, good 
cropper, height 4 to 5 ft. 

Second Early Varieties 
Centenary. — A first-rate variety in every respect, height 
5j to 6 ft. 

Quite Content. — A prolific variety, height 5J to 6 ft., pods 
extra large. 

Stratagem. — An excellent semi-dwarf kind, height 3 ft, free 
cropper. 

Prince of Peas. — A first-rate second early, and abundant cropper 
of splendid quality. 

Incomparable. — A vigorous-growing variety about 4 ft. in 
height, very prolific. 

Duke of Albany. — Very fine free-cropping Pea, of the highest 
quality, height 6 ft 

Main-crop Varieties 
Pride of the Market. — A sturdy free-cropping variety, height 
3 to 4 ft. 

Abundance. — A very fine prolific Pea of excellent quality, 
height 4 ft. 

King Edward. — A prolific variety, height about 4 ft., excellent 
quality. 

Prince of Wales. — A strong-growing variety, excellent cropper, 
height 4 ft. 

Masterpiece.— A sturdy free-bearing Pea, height 4 ft 
Veitch's Perfection. — A well-known superior Pea, an abundant 

cropper, height 4 ft. 

Eureka. — A very free-cropping variety, of excellent quality, 

height 4J ft. 

Autocrat. — i\ vigorous, free-bearing Pea of superior quality, 
height 5 ft. 

Ne Plus Ultra. — One of the best late sorts, a good cropper, 

quality excellent, height 5 to 6 ft 

Gladstone. — A fine late kind, an abundant cropper, height 5 ft 
Continuity. — A prolific late variety of great excellence, height 

4i to 5 ft. 

POTATOES 

Culture. — When grown in the open ground Potatoes are 
usually planted from the end of March, or in April and early in 
May according to locality and climatic conditions in drills or 

49 



770 



ADDENDUM 



holes made with a hoe or " setter " some 4 to 5 in. in depth, with 
a distance of 12 to 18 in. between the " sets " according to their 
season of use or when the crop matures, and the vigour of growth 
of the varieties grown. Entire tubers of medium size are the best 
for planting, and they should in all cases, especially so in regard to 
early and second early varieties, be exposed some time beforehand 
to the influence of light and air, so that, at planting time, they will 
have green sturdy shoots on them from ij to 2 in. in length. In 
this case care must be taken when planting not to break off the 
shoots. The object in planting these sprouted tubers is not only 
to gain time in regard to growth, but to secure greater uniformity 
and vigour, while gaps or losses in the rows arising from tubers 
failing to grow is obviated, and last, but by no means least, the 
maturation of the crops is, to a great extent, accelerated. The 
tubers should be covered at the time of planting with from 4 to 5 in. 
of soil, and the general practice is to keep the soil between the rows 
well hoed, and to earth up as soon as the stems have grown to a 
height of 6 or 8 in. Earthing-up is very essential, as it has the 
advantage of not only causing the tubers to lie more closely 
together round the roots of the plants, but prevents those which 
lie uppermost or nearest the surface from becoming exposed, while 
the crop is the more easily lifted. Potatoes ripen, or at least 
become fit for use, early in June to the end of October, according 
to the varieties grown. They may be forced under glass or in 
frames on mild hotbeds. In the former case large pots or boxes 
of suitable depth may be utilised for the purpose. Forcing may 
be commenced in December or January, and continued up to the 
middle of March. The crop will be ready for lifting in from two 
to three months after planting, less time being required as the 
season advances between the time of planting and when the tubers 
will have become large enough for use.' 

Select List of Varieties 
First Ear lies 

Epicure. — White, round, heavy cropper of good quality. 
Eclipse. — White Kidney, a heavy cropper, of fair quality. 
Early Favourite. — White round, good cropper, said to be of 
good quality. 

Duke of York. — White Kidney, medium cropper, quality first- 
rate ; excellent for frame and pot culture. 

May Queen. — White Kidney, good cropper, quality excellent. 
Good for forcing. 

Sir John Llewelyn. — White Kidney, good cropper, of excellent 
quality. 

Midlothian Early. — White, pebble-shaped, fair cropper, quality 
good. 



POTATOES 



771 



Sharpe's Express. — White Kidney, excellent cropper, quality 
first-rate. 

Sharpe's Victor. — White Kidney, fair cropper, first-rate quaHty. 
Excellent forcing variety. 

Second Earlies 

Snowdrop. — White Kidney, abundant cropper, of excellent 
quality. 

Gladiator. — White Kidney, very heavy cropper, of fair quality 
on heavy soil. 

British Queen. — White, shape variable, heavy cropper, quality 
excellent on some soils. 

Great Scot. — White, round, said to be a heavy cropper of 
good quality. 

King" George. — White Kidney, said to be a good cropper. 

Main-crop and Late Sorts 
Windsor Castle. — White, oval-shaped, good cropper, quality 
first-rate. 

King Edward. — Kidney, white, lightly coloured here and there 
with pink. Abundant cropper of excellent quality. 

Up-to-Date. — White, round, abundant cropper; quality first- 
rate. 

Arran Chief. — White, round, heavy cropper, quality excellent 
on some soils. 

Long Keeper. — White, pebble-shaped 
Crofter. — White, pebble-shaped 
The Lochar. — White, round 
The Chapman. — White, round 



Reputedly heavy 
croppers. 



Spraying. — The proper proportions of the sulphate of copper 
and lime solution for spraying Potatoes to check the disease {^Phy- 
topthora infestans), is one pound of each. Tie the sulphate — which 
is blue-stone — in a coarse piece of canvas and put into a wooden 
tub holding about 10 gallons. Pour over the sulphate 2 gallons of 
boiling water and let it dissolve. In a pail dissolve the lime, which 
should be fresh, and when clear add the water to that in the tub. 
In addition to the above, dissolve in hot water i lb. of common 
treacle, and add this. Then fill up the tub. The solution should 
be applied about the middle of July, with a second application 
three weeks later. It must be applied to the foliage of the Potatoes 
in the form of a very fine spray through a knapsack sprayer, or by 
the aid of a spraying syringe. It is best done in the evening. 

Sprouting the Seed Tubers. — Though good results may 
be possible from tubers that have not been put into the sprouting 
boxes in February or March — that is, from four to six weeks before 
planting — it is generally conceded that the better plan is to store 



772 



ADDENDUM 



the seed tubers in boxes during the winter. Leaving out the 
relative effects of winter or spring boxing on the subsequent crop, 
there are other valid reasons for giving preference to autumn or 
winter boxing. In the first place, there is, as a rule, more spare 
time for carrying out the work in the fall than in the spring, when 
there are so many other things requiring attention. In the second 
place, there is no way in which the seed tubers may be kept so 
safely or stored in smaller compass than in the boxes utilised for 
the sprouting of the tubers. The third and most important 
recommendation is that the tubers can be overhauled and examined 
as time permits, should that be found necessary, while the sprouting 
can be regulated to a nicety by placing the boxes in a high or a 
low temperature, and exposing the tubers to light and air or 
shielding them from the latter as circumstances may require. The 
size of box recommended for general use is, length 24 in., width 
12 in., and depth 3 in. The corner-pieces should be 7 in. in height 
and sufficiently strong for the boxes to rest one on top of the 
other when piled for winter storage. The handle-bar should be 
strong and tenoned into the end-pieces, the whole forming a light, 
handy, and durable receptacle which, if carefully used, will last for 
years. Such boxes are not very expensive, each box holding about 
20 lb. of Potatoes, varying with the size of the tubers. The filling 
of the boxes involves no particular care or trouble, and when 
completed they may be arranged one on top of the other to any 
height that may be found convenient. 

Apart from the effect of light and air upon the length of the 
sprout, exposure for some time before planting is all-important, in 
order that the sprout may become tough, and thus not so liable to 
be broken when handled. A few days' exposure will be sufficient 
to make the sprouts quite tough, and so less liable to injury when 
planting is being done. When storing the boxed tubers care 
should be taken that they are not placed where frost is likely to 
reach them. On the other hand they should not be given too high 
a temperature or sprouting will be too rapid, and they will become 
spindly and drawn. As a rule they will do very well in barns or 
sheds, provided they are protected from cold winds and covered 
with straw or sacks when frost is severe and protracted. 

At the time of planting the sprouts should be about 2 in. long, 
and the management of the boxes should be so carried out that 
this length of sprout should be developed as uniformly as possible 
all over the box. There is no valid objection to longer sprouts, 
except that there is a danger of some of them being broken off 
unless they are very carefully handled. Generally, the sprouts are 
apt to fall short of rather than exceed the desired length, in which 
case, in order to check growth and prevent their becoming drawn, 
the best way is to expose them to the light. If, on the other hand, 



RHUBARB (DAW'S CHAMPION) 



773 



it Is found that the sprouts are slow to extend, then all light should 
be excluded. 

RHUBARB (DAW'S CHAMPION) 

An early Rhubarb is most useful when forced or when allowed 
to come away naturally. Of the newer varieties that at the head 
of this note is of great value, indeed by some it is preferred to the 
well-known Hawke's Champagne, an old kind, well known for its 
fine colour, earliness, and quality when obtained true. It is 
largely grown by one of the Covent Garden Market men, who has 
shown it frequently at the winter meetings of the Royal Horti- 
cultural Society, receiving both an award of merit for it for its 
earliness and a first-class certificate for it for its excellent quality. 
Of the several varieties of Rhubarb that have been put into 
commerce of recent years it is one of the best. Even so early as 
January we have seen the crowns growing freely with only a 
handful or two of loose litter thrown over them. For forcing it is 
unequalled, the bright red colour permeating the whole stalk. 
It is a very strong grower, quite different in this respect from some 
of our very early varieties of former days. 

ROTATION OF CROPS 

This is one of the most important points in the culture of 
vegetables. So much, however, depends on the nature of the soil, 
the size of the garden, and the different vegetables required that 
no hard-and-fast rule can be laid down in this matter. A change 
of ground is beneficial to most vegetables, though there are many 
I exceptions, as in the case of Onions, Shallots, and Artichokes, which 

I may be grown from year to year on the same piece of ground. 
The treatment for Celery brings the ground into a high state of 

: cultivation, and most vegetables do well after Celery. Carrots, 

! Parsnips, and Beet should follow crops for which the soil was 

ij specially manured, as the application of fresh manure just before 

j sowing is detrimental to them. All the Cabbage family should 

II never be allowed to succeed each other, but should generally 

! follow after tap-rooted vegetables. The soil for tap-rooted vege- 
j' tables should be thoroughly well worked without the addition of 
; any manure. 

TOMATOES 

ij Defoliating" Tomatoes. — Many amateurs run away with the 
\ idea that Tomatoes when exposed by the removal of the leaves 
\ ripen more quickly. This is an erroneous idea, and the sooner it 

is dispelled the better — that is, by those who treat the plants in 
! such a barbarous fashion. One may often see the plants quite 

denuded of all the leaves, only a small particle of a leaf-stem 



774 



ADDENDUM 



or two remaining at the extremities. Plants that are growing 
very strongly in a small house may be slightly denuded of some 
of the gross-growing leafage without any material injury. 
Especially is this the case when the leaves cover the soil and 
impede the daily watering of the plants. Let any one visit some 
of our large market gardens where Tomatoes are grown, and note 
how little thought is paid to removal of the leaves of Tomatoes 
and how freely ripe fruits are obtained from day to day. 

Against hot sunny walls in the open air the foliage is of great 
value in protecting the swelling fruits from the sun, and in this 
way prevents scalding. Tomatoes do not require the sun to shine 
directly on to them to impart early maturity and colour. The 
plants themselves need all the sunlight possible, but unless the 
leafage as referred to above is over-luxuriant there is no need for 
repressing it. By all means remove the growths which spring 
from the leaf axils, and the sooner this is attended to the better 
both for the plants and the crop. In the case of outdoor plants, 
when four to six trusses, according to the strength of the plant, 
are set, pinch out the point at one leaf beyond the topmost one. 
Very strong plants may carry from six to eight trusses of fruit 
if they are early — that is, planted out early. Late-put-out plants 
would not have time to bring so many to maturity before they 
were overtaken by frost. If stopped — as advised — early, the fruits 
swell more quickly and ripen sooner. Against walls staking and 
tying the plants to the stakes are better than nailing, driving the 
stakes into the ground and securing them to the wall with a nail 
and shred. 

TOMATOES FOR WINTER 

Whatever advance may have taken place in the last few years 
as regards improved varieties of Tomatoes, we have not as yet 
obtained a really good sort for winter fruiting, but will have to 
rely more on methods of culture in order to secure satisfactory 
results. As far as a supply up to Christmas is concerned there 
is no difficulty in securing this from the plants that have fruited 
during the summer — that is, provided they have been grown in 
light, well-heated structures. It is after this time that the supply 
runs short. Many people are often compelled to do away with 
plants in the early winter on account of the house being required 
for another purpose, as at this time it is impossible for the plants 
to be satisfactory when subjected to a low temperature, or on 
the other hand a too high and moist one. It is to meet such cases 
as these, where winter Tomatoes are needed, that it is very 
essential to raise a fresh batch of plants and grow them on for 
winter fruiting. On plants raised in August and carefully 
attended to there will be time for a crop to set by the end of 



TOMATOES FOR WINTER 



775 



October. After this time the days are generally dull and moist, 
; conditions not favourable to the setting of the fruit. For winter 
work only medium growers and free setters should be selected. 

As regards the mode of increase, seedlings are preferable to 
cuttings, as though cuttings might naturally be expected to come 
into bearing before seedlings, and consequently answer better for 
j winter fruiting, seedlings if carefully tended will fruit quite as 
j early, and in every other respect be satisfactory. The plants 
must be stocky, as drawn and weakly plants are of no use, since 
by the time these have become fit to produce fruit the season is 
I too late for the flowers to set 

j In growing winter Tomatoes pot culture is preferable to 
' planting out, as in pots the plants are more under control, with 
I the added advantage that the house is at liberty for other plants 
I until the time comes round for housing the Tomatoes. The best 
i place for winter tomatoes is those light houses or pits in which 
I cucumbers and melons have been grown during the summer, as 

directly these are over they can be cleared out and the Tomatoes 

put in their place. The plants should be in their winter quarters 
\ by the beginning of October or the middle of the month at the 

latest. In our experience one of the best winter fruiting sorts is 
I Winter Beauty^ though the old Large Red is also good, the only 

objections to this variety being its poor shape and quality. 

TURNIPS (YELLOW-FLESHED) 

li It is very strange that the yellow-fleshed Turnips are so 
' favoured in the north, while they are but seldom grown in the 
i south. When cooked, there can be no question as to the superior 
' quality of the yellow-fleshed Turnips, the flesh being firmer, of 
better flavour, and when served, in the opinion of many, more 
I, attractive. One often hears it said that the flavour of the yellow- 
fleshed Turnip in the south is strong, but given good culture in the 
way of deep, well-manured soil, and grown on without a check, this 
is not so. The cultivation has a great influence on the flavour, and 
it very often happens that the white Turnips are not only hard, but 
bitter, and for this reason very objectionable. In the kitchen the 
yellow-fleshed Turnips are by many cooks preferred to the white- 
I fleshed varieties. 



776 



ADDENDUM 



VEGETABLE DISEASES 

The Bean Aphis. — This, known as The Black Dolphin, is the 
worst enemy of the Broad Bean, and unless steps are taken to 
destroy it, it very soon ruins the crop. The best way to get rid 
of it is to remove the tops of the plants, and if aphides are present 
to burn them, then syringe the plants with any insecticide sold for 
destroying black and green fly. Syringing with soap-suds on two 
or three consecutive days has also been found effective. 

Cabbages Clubbing. — The best remedy for this is, without 
doubt, gas-lime, which should be applied to ground, whenever 
empty, in which clubbing has been prevalent. This should be 
applied at the rate of 2 bushels to 3 rods if the clubbing has been 
bad ; if not, then allow i bushel to 2 rods of ground. After lying 
on the ground for from four to six weeks, dig the dressing in. If 
gas-lime is not to be had, then a dressing of ordinary lime at the 
same rate will do good. Be careful not to plant any of the 
Cabbage family on the infected ground for at least two years. 
Potatoes, Seakale, or Rhubarb may occupy the ground, or Onions, 
Parsnips, or Beet may be sown thereon — in fact, any crop other 
than one of the Brassica family. 

Celery Leaf Blight. — This, during the past few years, has 
been prevalent, and is very often the cause of the partial or com- 
plete failure of the crop. The disease may be recognised by local 
crumpling of the leaf, followed by the appearance of spots on the 
surface. The leaves rot away, after which the stems decay, and 
finally the whole plant disappears. As the spores of the fungus 
remain in the soil for some time afterwards, Celery should not be 
grown in the same plot of ground for several years. Since the 
disease is carried in the seed, growers of Celery are advised to 
disinfect their seed. In order to do this hydrogen peroxide should 
be used. When purchasing this disinfectant a solution known as 
20-volume solution should, if it can be had, be obtained, but if not, 
then a lo-volume solution may be used. The seed to be treated 
is placed in a glass or earthenware vessel, and enough of the 
hydrogen peroxide poured in to cover the seed. Stir the mass 
thoroughly so that all the seeds become wet, allow the seeds to 
remain in the liquid for three hours, then pour the liquid off and 
reserve it for treating a second batch if need be. Before sowing, 
spread the seed out thinly to get dry. Do not return the seed 
that has been disinfected to the original packet, or else some of 
the spores of the fungus causing the disease may be adhering to 
the paper and reinfect the seeds. There is a possibility of arrest- 
ing and finally subduing the attack, if, on the first signs of the 



VEGETABLE DISEASES 



777 



fungus being noticed, the plants are sprayed with Bordeaux 
mixture; but if the disease has got a firm hold, then spraying 
will avail nothing. After the Celery has been dug, and if very 
badly attacked burnt, give the ground a good dressing of freshly 
slaked lime, or one of the several soil disinfectants now on the 
market. 

Celery Maggot or Leaf Miner. — This pest, which in some 
seasons disfigures the leaves of Celery very badly, is very diffi- 
cult to combat, as the maggot is encased inside the skin or leaf 
covering, consequently impossible to get at with any insecticide. 
The only remedy is hand-picking the affected leaves and burning 
them. After removing the leaves that have been very badly 
disfigured, give the plants a good dusting of soot. Given repeated 
dressings of soot to check further attacks of the fly, a healthy 
growth will follow, and if this is kept clean there will be but little 
fear of a severe attack. 

Mint Cluster-cup Fungus {Puccinia menthae). — There is no 
cure for this, as the fungus is in the stems, in the lower part of 
which it passes the winter. When this fungus attacks a bed of 
mint the best thing that one can do is to pull up the plants at once 
and throw them on the fire, making a fresh plantation in another 
part of the garden with plants from an untainted source. It is 
advisable, too, to give the ground where the fungus-infested mint 
has been growing a good dressing of lime, so as to destroy any 
fungus spores that may be present in the soil. 

Onion Fly {Anthomyza ceparuin). — This lays its eggs at the 
base of the young plants in April and May, and the grubs when 
they hatch out begin feeding on the bulbs and burrow into the 
hearts of the plants, which very soon collapse. In the case of a 
bad attack the plants can be pulled from out of the drills, as the 
roots are then partially or wholly destroyed. When in this 
condition every afifected plant should at once be pulled up and 
destroyed. Shallow sowing renders the plants liable to attack, as 
the base of the plants being on the surface the flies are better able 
to find a footing. If deeper sowing is practised, the vulnerable 
part of the bulb is then buried. To act as a protection it has been 
found that by drawing soil up to the plants on either side of the 
lines the fly is unable to get at the base. Some growers water 
the soil between the lines with paraffin and water, while others 
again strew sand saturated with paraffin between the lines. We 
have tried both these so-called remedies, but in neither case did 
any good results follow. The best way we find when this pest has 
been troublesome is to grow the onions in another part of the garden 
as far away from the infected area as possible, sowing the seed as 
soon as the ground is in working condition, and rather deeply so 
that the outer cuticle of the bulb may be hardened and so 



778 



ADDENDUM 



impervious to the attacks of the fly when the egg-laying time 
arrives. One of the several soil disinfectants should also be dug 
into the soil or sufficient lime and salt to whiten the ground spread 
on the surface and forked in. Plants raised in the autumn or those 
raised under glass in the early part of the year are seldom attacked ; 
they are too hard and buried too deeply for the insects to get at 
them. In many cases where the outdoor sowing of onions has been 
a failure, growers have abandoned this mode of culture and raised 
the plants under glass instead. These when large enough are 
pricked into boxes, and in some cases potted off singly and grown 
in frames. After having been well hardened off they are planted 
out during April. It has been found that grown in this way the 
losses have been reduced to a minimum. A grower of our acquaint- 
ance uses nothing but soot, and he never has any trouble either 
with the onion fly or the carrot fly. A good preventive against 
the first inroads of the fly is to spray the young plants every few 
days with an emulsion made by boiling i lb. of soft soap in two 
quarts of water, adding half a pint of paraffin, then six gallons of 
water, working the whole through a syringe until it is a frothy 
mixture. If after the spraying is completed a good dressing of 
old weathered soot is dusted over the moistened plants the onions 
should be in great measure protected from the fly. 

Potatoes, Wart Disease of. — This, known as Synchytrium 
endobioticum, is the worst of all diseases that affect vegetables. 
The unfortunate part of it is that unless checked it will very soon 
spread over a wide district. It is easily recognised by the ugly 
excrescences like warts that appear in the eyes of the tubers. 
When once a tuber or tubers have fallen a prey to this disease 
these tubers are of no value, and should be at once burned to 
prevent the spores getting into the soil. Very often the stems of 
the plants are attacked, this being indicated by greenish-white 
growths thereon. The warts on the tubers are at first of a dark- 
brown colour and firm, but as the season advances they change 
to almost black and are quite soft, finally rotting away and in 
decay emitting a most unpleasant smell. This is the time the 
spores are mixed with the soil, where they remain dormant, but 
still capable of causing serious loss should potatoes be planted on 
the infected ground. Never save any seed from the wart-infested 
tubers, as this is a certain way of still further spreading the disease. 
Potato growers both amateur and professional should look over 
their crop, not only during the growing period, but afterwards 
when the tubers are in store, and if any tubers with the least 
symptoms of the disease are found they should report the same, 
as wart disease is notifiable and severe penalties are attached to its 
wilful concealment. All infested tubers should be burned, and 
the ground from which they have been lifted dressed with gas- 



VEGETABLE DISEASES 



779 



lime which, having lain for some time, should be well broken up 
and dug in. Do not on any account plant potatoes on such 
infected ground, and when purchasing seed always stipulate that 
such has been grown on ground free of the disease. We have now 
varieties that are immune to this disease, and such should only be 
planted where the Wart disease has been present. It is therefore 
all the more fortunate that experiments carried out by the Board 
of Agriculture and Fisheries have demonstrated beyond all doubt, 
for the time being at any rate, the absolute immunity to Wart 
disease of certain varieties of Potatoes, many of which both crop 
and cook well. Some of the best immune varieties are : — 

Early Varieties 

Snowdrop. — A very shallow-eyed, white-skinned, pure white- 
fleshed Kidney potato of good quality. 

Dargill Early. — A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, pale, yellow- 
fleshed, good cropping Kidney variety. 

Edzell Blue. — A rather deep-eyed, purple-skinned, pure white- 
fleshed, heavily cropping, round potato of good quality. 

Second Early Varieties 

King George. — A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, white-fleshed, 
irregular-shaped variety of fair quality. This is one that if 
sprouted and planted early can be lifted almost as early as 
Epicure, but is liable to boil black later in the season. 

Great Scot. — A rather deep-eyed, white-skinned, white-fleshed, 
very heavily cropping round variety of good quality. 

Ally. — A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, white-fleshed, heavily 
cropping, oval to oblong variety of fairly good quality. 

Arran Comrade. — A very shallow-eyed, white-skinned, white- 
fleshed, heavily cropping, flattened round variety of fairly good 
quality. 

Late or Main-crop Varieties 

Abundance. — Including the large number of differently named 
varieties of identical type. A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, white- 
fleshed, fairly good cropping, flat round to oval potato of good 
quality, but rather liable to late blight. 

Tinwald Perfection. — A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, lemon- 
white-fleshed, good cropping, oval to oblong potato of excellent 
quality. 

Kerr's Pink. — A rather deep-eyed, light-pink-skinned, white- 
fleshed, heavily cropping, round potato of excellent quality. 
Particularly good on heavy soils. 

Majestic. — A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, white-fleshed, good 
cropping Kidney variety of good quality. The seed requires 
careful handling, and should be sprouted before planting. 

Golden Wonder. — A shallow-eyed, russety-brown-skinned, 



78o 



ADDENDUM 



white-fleshed, h'ght cropping, tapering, Kidney variety of the 
very best quality. Will crop well if the seed is sprouted and 
planted in well-cultivated loam and given a long season of growth. 
Probably the best-keeping potato known, and if kept till after 
Christmas probably the best eating. 

Any of the above may safely be grown in infected soil with 
good prospects of success, and growers should endeavour to 
become familiar with the fitness of these sorts to local conditions, 
even if they are not yet troubled with this serious disease of the 
Potato. It is just possible that the raising of seedlings may in 
time check this terrible pest. 

Potatoes, Black Leg of. — From reports received by the Board 
of Agriculture it appears that this disease is spreading in this 
country, black leg being common in crops of King George^ Great 
Scot, Majestic, and Ally. It is possible that these newer varieties 
are more susceptible to this disease than those previously grown, 
so that the parasite has increased at a more rapid rate. In the 
year 1917 the disease was noticed in Scotland to be fairly common 
among the crops of Potatoes, and it is possible that the more 
extensive use of Scotch seed during the past few years has dis- 
tributed the disease over a wider area. This disease is very 
destructive and causes serious loss in the Potato crops. The leaves 
wilt and turn yellow, then shrivel and die, the disease starting low 
down on the stem, the uppermost leaves being the last to succumb. 
When the leaves first begin to drop, the surface of the under- 
ground part of the stem bearing such leaves is more or less 
covered with brownish stains. This discoloration gradually 
extends up the stem, which in the end becomes quite black and 
very soon decays. Black patches also appear in the young tubers, 
which if the attack is severe soon rot. As soon as any of the 
potato plants show symptoms of this disease they ought at once 
to be dug up and thrown on the fire heap. 

Tomatoes, Black Spot in. — This, known as Cladosporium 
fulvuin, is a fungus which germinates soonest in moisture. In 
the morning, any moisture that may be accumulated through 
vapour rising from the soil during the night, becomes condensed 
on the fruits, and invariably finds its way to the lowest part of 
the fruit. Of itself, the moisture would do no harm were there 
no spores of the fungus in the house. The spores, however, 
settling on the fruit get washed down by the moisture to the 
apex of the fruit, and at once become active, penetrating through 
the tiny orifice left by the decaying bloom. Then it begins to 
spread, and preys upon the flesh, causing it to become black. 
Once the spot is seen on the fruits, a cure, so far as the affected 
fruits are concerned, is out of the question. All such affected 
fruits should at once be removed, and thrown on the fire. The 



VEGETABLE DISEASES 



781 



best cure for this trouble is to dissolve 10 oz. of sulphate of 
potassium — liver of sulphur — in two quarts of boiling water, adding 
two gallons of water, and thoroughly wetting the plants with this. 

Tomatoes, Black Stripe of. — This is a fungoid disease, the 
origin of which, up to the present, is unknown. It is a parasitic 
fungus and attacks both the stems and fruit, but can only gain 
a footing when wounds are present in either or both ; and once 
an attack has been experienced, it is very difficult to prevent its 
reappearance the following season. To prevent a second attack, 
all the soil in which the plants have been grown should be cleared 
out and burned. The house, too, in which the plants have been 
growing should be disinfected and scrupulously cleaned, while 
the soil that is to be used the following season should be sterilised 
by placing it over a fire on a sheet of iron and allowing it to become 
heated, almost to the point of being charred. To guard against 
a further attack of the fungus after the plants have become 
established, spray them with sulphide of potassium every other 
week or so right through the season, using i oz. of sulphide to 
3 gallons of warm water, in which 2 oz. of soft soap have been 
dissolved. Of course, a greater quantity of the spraying mixture 
may be required, but the same proportions should always be 
followed. Avoid giving stimulants to such an extent as to cause 
the fruits to crack, and do not remove any more of the leaves than 
is absolutely necessary. 

Tomatoes, Scalding of. — This is caused when, in the morning, 
the moisture condenses on the fruits because the house has been 
shut up too close, and the sun strikes them before they are dry, 
as very often happens in the case of grapes. Scalding, too, may 
to a great extent be caused by cutting aw^ay the foliage, which 
is all too common. Rich food is often given in excess, and without 
foliage to absorb such food it is taken up by the fruits, causing 
bad flavour, spot, and scalding. We do not denude other plants 
of their leaves in the same way as we see the Tomato treated, 
and when this is done it is impossible to prevent the scalding of 
the fruits when this severe cutting is carried to excess. The 
smooth-skinned varieties of the Perfection type scald much sooner 
than the corrugated kinds, the skins being probably more 
sensitive. 

Tomatoes, the "Sleeping Disease." — The resting spores 
of this, known scientifically as Fusarium lycopersici^ attack the 
delicate root hairs and rootlets of the plants, finally invading the 
whole of the roots and spreading up the stem. To make sure 
that the disease has been destroyed, it is well to burn all the plants 
that are tainted with it, at the same time removing all the soil, 
mixing lime with it, and replacing with fresh before replanting. 
Fresh plants should also be purchased from an untainted source. 



782 



ADDENDUM 



The Turnip Fly. — A very great difficulty presented to every 
gardener in connection with the raising of Turnips is combating 
the fly when the seedlings are very small. No matter where sown, 
the fly in dry weather attacks the plants, being as destructive in one 
garden as in another, unless very drastic steps are taken to check 
it. Some people advise dusting the plants with soot or very dry 
soil, but such dressings seem to do but little good. Possibly, 
syringing the seedlings with Quassia extract may check its inroads 
for a time, but such spraying, to do any good, must be repeated 
every two or three days. Coating the leafage with soot and dirt 
may, for a time, check the fly, but such dressings, seeing they 
choke the pores of the leaves, must, in the end, be harmful to the 
plants. 

One of the best aids to vigorous growth, and consequent freedom 
from the attacks of the fly, is found in rich soil, the drills, when 
drawn, being saturated with weak liquid manure, sowing the seed 
at once and immediately covering it with fine, dry soil, which, in 
addition to checking evaporation, helps the germination of the 
seeds. A cool and slightly shaded position is best for summer 
sowing, but the later sowings, at the end of August or early in 
September, should be made quite in the open. Some persons 
sprinkle the grass from the mowing machine over the newly sown 
breadths of Turnips, these furnishing some slight degree of pro- 
tection. Whether the taste of the decaying grass is offensive to 
the fly, or the grass helps to cover the Turnips from view, is not 
certain. It is, however, a simple and easily applied mode of pro- 
tection, which almost any one sowing Turnip seed in gardens can 
adopt. Carrying a long, freshly tarred board by two men over a 
breadth of Turnips, the board kept a few inches above the plants 
and in a slanting position, was found instrumental in capturing 
great numbers of the beetles. 



INDEX 



j Agaricus campestris, 438 
[ Allium cepa, 454 
I „ fistulosum, 475 
„ lusitanicum, 476 
„ Porrum, 350 
„ sativum, 310 
„ Schoenoprasum, 249 
Scorodoprasum, 313 
Anethum Foeniculum, 308 
,, graveolens, 289 
Angelica, 1 

„ Archangelica, i 
Anise, 2 

Anthomyza ceparum, 777 
Anthriscus Cerefolium, 240 
Apium graveolens, 227 

„ Petroselinum, 478 
Arachis hypogaea, 549 
Artemisia Absinthium, 754 
Dracunculus, 705 

,, vulgaris, 438 
Artichoke, black English, 9 

,, Brittany, flat-headed, 7 

Chinese or Japanese, 671 

„ Florence, 9 

,, French, 3 

„ Globe early purple, 8 
gray, 8 

„ Jerusalem, 10 

„ ,, Imperial Yellow, 10 

' „ ,, name, fallacy of, 758 

„ ,, Potato, II 

,, ,, the white, 758 

„ oblong St Laud, 9 

„ of Brittany, copper-coloured, 8 

„ ,, Carmarque, violet Quaran- 

tain, 9 

„ ,, Genoa, sweet, 9 

„ Paris, 6 

„ „ large, 6 

„ Perpetual, 8 

„ Provence, green, 7 

,, ,, purple, 9 

,, Roscoff, 9 

,, Venice, purple, 9 
Asparagus, 13 

,, Argenteuil early giant, 19 
,, late giant, 20 

,, blanching, 16 

„ common green, 19 

„ essential points in the pro- 
duction of good, 15 

„ giant Dutch, 19 



Asparagus, giant Dutch, purple, 19 

,, officinalis, 11 

„ planting, 16 

,, white German, 19 
Asperula odorata, 754 
Atriplex hortensis, 477 

B 

Balm, 20 

Barbarea praecox, 262 
Basella alba, 451 

,, cordifolia, 451 
Basil, 21 

,, bush or dwarf, 22 

„ curled-leaved, 22 

„ East Indian or tree, 23 

,, green bush, 22 

,, ,, compact, 23 

,, large green sweet, 22 

,, ,, purple sweet, 22 

,, lettuce-leaved, 22 

,, purple bush, 23 

,, ,, ., compact, 23 
Bean, Aguadulce long-podded, 28 

,, ,, extra long-podded, 29 

,, aphis, 776 

,, asparagus, 80, 98 

,, ,, Cuban, 100 

„ ,, giant extra early, 99 

„ long Tonkin, 99 

,, ,, stringless Lablab, loi 

,, ,, very early long-pod, 98, 99. 

,, Bagnolet, dwarf white, 65 

,, ,, green-seeded, 54 

,, ,, nettled-leaved, 59 

,, Beck's dwarf Green Gem, 31 

„ Best of All, 67 

,, Bouscat early long-pod forcing, 53 
,, broad, common or, 24 
,, ,, pod skinless, 72 
„ ,, Windsor, 30 
„ Bulgarian, 80 
,, butter, black Algerian, tall, 70 
,, ,, ,, wax or the, 84 
,, ,, Cambrai tall wax or, 69 
„ ,, Detroit wax, 90 
„ ,, dwart Algerian black-seeded^ 
84 

,, ,, ,, Digoin, 83, 84 
,, ,, ,, extra early golden, 83 
,, „ „ extra early wax, 86 
,, ,, ,, flesh-coloured Pre- 

dome, 89 
„ ,, „ golden, 83 

„ „ Mont d'Or, 69 



783 



784 



INDEX 



Bean, butter, dwarf white, 82 

,, wax or, 82 

Geneva or Plainpalais white 

or wax, 72 
ivory, 79 

tall, 79 
long-podded dwarf Algerian, 

84, 85 
Mont d'Or, 83 

,, dwarf wax or, 69 

New Golden, 90 
Prolific German, 84 
rose-coloured Predome, 80 
Saint Joseph, 80 
tall white Algerian wax or, 68 

,, wax or, 79 
Valentine, 90 

variegated white-podded, 89 
very early dwarf, 82 

,, ,, wax or, 82 

Wardwell's, 90 
white Crystal, 90 
„ the, 72 
Case-knife, White Dutch Scimitar or, 
46 

climbing French varieties, 758, 759 
Cluster or Fan, dwarf, 31, 32 
Coco Prolific, two -coloured, 77 
common or broad, 24 
common white flat, 64 

,, ,, round, 65 

CornhiU, red-speckled, Cut-short or, 
50 

Cut-short, or CornhiU, red-speckled, 

dwarf Barbes, 58 

Black Hermitage, 57 
blue-black seeded, 55, 56 
early white, 59, 60 
Emperor of Russia, 61 
extra early Black Prince, 56 
Fan or Cluster, 31, 32 
Flageolet Chevrier, 53 

„ Triumph of Frames, 
53 

Green Gem, Beck's, 31 
,, seeded Soissons, 64 
,, Vaudreuil, 66 
Inexhaustible, 51 
long-podded Lyonnais, 86 
long scarlet 54 
Marvel of Paris, 60 
Matchless, 51 
Parisian, 59, 60 
purple-podded, 87 
Prolific, 88 
Rachel, 90 

Sutton's Prolific Negro, 67 
two-coloured China, 89 
white Bagnolet, 65 

,, seeded Lyonnais, 86 
early light dun, 66 

„ ,, and early dark dun, 66 
Egyptian, Kidney, Lablab, or, loi 
Emperor William, 67 
Flageolet, Chevrier dwarf, 53 
„ dwarf long scarlet, 54 
Fame of Vitry, 54 



Bean, Flageolet, Four to Four, 72, 73 
,, ,, long green-seeded, 52 

„ ,, „ scarlet, 47, 54 

„ „ ,, yellow, or pale dun, 

54 

„ „ Triumph of the Frames, 

53 

,, ,, wax scarlet, 55 

,, ,, Wonder of France, 53 

,, French, Cherry, Japanese, 79 
„ „ climbing, 758 

„ dwarf purple-podded skin- 
less, 87 

„ Earliest of AH, 759 

„ Fillbasket, 759 

,, La Val d' Isere, 81 
,, ,, h^ew Zealand, or Prague, 75 

,, Tender and True, 759 
,, Glory of Lyons, 60 
green Windsor, 30 
,, haricot, bush, kidney, Solitary, or, 
66 

,, ,, du Bon Jardinier, 86, 87 

,, improved early red Valentine, 90 

,, Inexhaustible, 51 

,, ,, dxvarf, 51 

,, Kentucky Wonder, Seek no Further, 

Old Homestead, 49 
,, Kidney, Asparagus or Yard-long, 80 

,, black- "Speckled, 59 
,, ., Bonnemain dwarf, 52 

,, broad-pod skinless, 71 
bush haricot, 66 
,, ,, Chatres red, 47 
,, climbing yellow, 80 

„ or Dunes 
yellow, 80 

,, dwarf Aix, 89 

„ Belgian, 57 
,, ., ,, blood-speckled, 61 
,, ,, chocolate, 57 

,, ,, ,, edible-podded, 82 

„ Emile, 87 
,, light dun-coloured, 62 

,, ,, ,, ,, long-pod, 50 
,, ,, ,, Mexican, 65 
,, ,, Predome, 87 

,, ,, Princess, 89 
„ ,, ,, red Orleans, 63 
,, ,, ,, red-speckled, 61 
,, ,, rice-white, 65 

„ Royal White, 56 
,, ,, ,, Russian, 62 
,, ,, ,, Sion House, 60 
,, Soissons, 63 

,, ,, ,, white long-pod, 49 
,, ,, ,, ,, Malmaison, 89 
,, ,, ,, ,, Quarantain, 85 

„ „ ,, Unique, 85 
,, ,, ,, „ yellow, extra 
early, 58 

,, ,, „ Hundred- 
fold, 57 

,, ,, ,, yellow Canadian, 88 
,, ,, early dwarf Chalandray, 57 
., „ extra Eiampes, 
50 

,, Scimitar, 64 



INDEX 

Bean, Kidney, early dwarf white edible- Bean, 
podded, 85 
„ ,. tall Englefontaine, 49 
„ edible-podded giant white, 

70, 71 
„ Harlequin, 49 
,, Imperial, 80 
,, ,, Lablab or Egyptian, 100, loi 

,, Lafayette, 80 
,, ,, large white Liancourt, 47 
,, ,, Neapolitan, 65 
,, ,, Negro long-pod or black 

Canterbury, 56 
„ nettle-leaved Canterbury, 51 

,, New Bountiful, 67 
,, ,, Old Homestead, 49 
,, ,, or French, 32 
,, ,, oval yellow China or Robin's 

Egg, 88, 89 
„ „ Partridge Egg, 49 

,, pink-marbled dwarf Prague, 
88 

,, Predome dwarf, 87 

,, ,, Princess dwarf, 89 

,, Quarantain dwarf white, 85 
,, red Prague, 76 

g, ., runner Gray Zebra, 81 
,, ,, ,, New Zealand, 76 

Princes^, 76 
,) purple, 78 
,, ,, round white rice, 48 

,, ,, Saint-Seurin, 50 
^, ,, Soissons red, 49 

,, Solitary or bush haricot, 66 
,, „ Sophie, 76 
^, ,, Spread Eagle, 62 

,, two-coloured Italian, 77 
Unique dwarf white, 85 
Val d'Isere, 81 
,, Villetaneuse, 81 
„ white Canterbury, 50 
j> Coco, 76 
)> Prague, 76 
,, Predome, 77 

,, yellow Canadian dwarf, 88 
„ Lablab, Egyptian, or Kidney, 100, 

lOI 

,, large common field, 27 
„ Lima, Burpee's Quarter-Century 

dwarf, 97 
,, ,, Willow-leaf, 96 

^, ,, Willow-leaf bush 

dwarf, 97 

„ ,, Challenge, Dreer's Improved, 
or Potato, 96 
,, common, the, 95 
,, ,, dwarf, 96 

,, „ large white, Burpee's 

bush Lima, 97 
^, „ ,, Sieva, Henderson's 

bush Lima, Wood's New 
Prolific Lima, 97 
,, extra early Jersey, 96 
,, King of the Garden, 96 
,, ,, large, the, 95 

mottled or marbled Cape, 96 
„ Siebert's early, 96 
,, small or Sieva, 96 



785 

Lima, yellow or pale dun Flageolet, 
54 

Lyonnais long-podded dwarf, 86 

,, white-seeded dwarf, 86 
MacMillan's American Prolific, 66 
Matchless dwarf, 51 
Mazagan early, 32 
Mohawk early, 67 
Nankeen-yellow Geneva, 80 
Ne Plus Ultra, 67 • 
New Mammoth Negro, 67 
Newington Wonder, 67 
Old Homestead, Kentucky Wonder, 

Seek no Further, 49 
Osborne's early forcing, 67 
Perfection, 29 
Plein de la Fleche, 66 
pole, extra early, 48 

,, long scarlet Flageolet, 47 

,, Soissons large, 45 

,, white Sallandre improved, 47 
Rachel, dwarf, 66, 90 
red-speckled. Cut-short, or Cornhill, 
50 

Refugee or Thousand to One, 67 

>> » >. extra 
early, 68 

runner, black-seeded, 93 

,, edible-podded black Scimi- 
tar, 75 

,, Painted Lady, Bicolor, or 
York and Lancaster, 93 
,, scarlet, hybrid, 94 

the, 93 
,, Soissons large, 45 
,, white, the, 94 
Scimitar, edible-podded black run- 
ner, 75 

,, White Dutch or Case-knife, 46 
Seek no Further, Old Homestead, 

Kentucky Wonder, 49 
Seville long-pod, 28 
Shah, the, 62, 63 
Sieva, small Lima or, 96 
Sir Joseph Paxton, 68 
Skinless broad-pod, 72 

,, from the Valley, 74 

,, golden-yellow tall, 74 

,, Saint-Fiacre, 73 

,, ,, „ white-seeded, 

73 

„ white tall King of the, 68 
Small July, 30, 31 
Soissons dwarf green-seeded, 64 
Southern Prolific, 49 
Soy, 661 

,, common yellow, 661 

,, Etampes yellow, 662 

,, Podolian, 662 

,, stringless green-pod, 67 

,, very early brown-seeded, 662 
Sutton's Prolific Negro, dwarf, 67 
the Monster, 66 

Thousand to One, Refugee, or, 67 
,, ., „ „ ,, extra 
early, 68 
two-coloured Coco Prolific, 77 
Vaudreuil, dwarf green, 66 

50 



786 



INDEX 



Bean, Ward's Centenary, 90 

„ Wax or Butter, black, the, 84 

Currie'sRust-proof, 
67 

„ „ Davis, 67 

,, ,, ,, Detroit, 90 

,, ,, ,, dwarf Algerian 

black-seeded, 84 
„ ,, ,, ,, dwarf Digoin,8s, 84 
„ ,, ,, ,, extra early, 

86 

,, ,, „ „ extrsiGolden, 

83 

„ ,, „ ,, Mont d'0r,6') 

,y >> >> »> very early, 82 

,, ,, ,, ,, Flageolet scarlet, 55 
,, ,, ,, Geneva or Plain- 
palais white, 72 
„ ,, ,, ,, golden, 90 

„ „ ,> ivory, 79 
„ y, tall, 79 

„ ,, ,, King of the, 82 

„ ,, ,, „ long-podded dwarf 
Algerian, 84, 85 
„ >, New Golden, 90 
„ „ Predome flesh- 

coloured, 89 
„ ,, „ „ Predome rose- 
coloured, 80 
,, ,, „ Prolific German, 84 
„ ,, „ tall black Algerian, 

84, 85 

„ ,, ,, „ Cambrai, 69 

„ „ „ » white, 79 
,, „ „ ,, Algerian, 

68 

„ „ „ „ Valentine, 90 
„ ,, „ variegated white- 

podded, 89 
,, „ „ very early dwarf, 82 

,, „ „ ,, Wardwell's, 90 
„ „ „ „ white, 72, 90 
„ „ „ „ „ Crystal, 90 
„ White Dutch, Scimitar, or Case- 
knife, 46 

„ ,, tall King of the Skinless, 68 
„ WiUiams' new early, 68 
„ Windsor, broad, 30 
„ yellow Canterbury, 68 
Beans, French, 44 

„ Kidney, culture in pits and frames, 
38 

„ „ early crops in market- 

gardens, 41 
„ „ first main sowing, 43 

„ „ ,, outdoor crop, 41 

„ „ forcing, 39 

gathering, 43 
„ „ mulching and watering, 37 

„ „ out of door sowing, 42 

soil, 37 

„ „ sowing, and culture out of 

doors, 35 
„ „ to force, 40 

„ „ tough-podded, 45 

„ scarlet runner, 90 
„ „ „ market-garden cul- 

ture, 93 



Beans, scarlet runner, sowing in open 
ground, 92 

,, ,, ,, sticking, 92 

,, white tall King of the Skinless, 68 
Beet, Bassano, early flat, in, 112 

,, Black Queen, 108, 109 

,, Black, Whyte's, 106, 107 

,, blood-red deep Castlenaudary, 106 
,, ,, Dewing's early, 109 

,, ,, ,, large, 104, 105 

,, ,, ,, long smooth or long smooth 
Rochester, 105 

,, Castlenaudary, deep blood-red, 106 

,, Cheltenham green-top, 112, 759 

,, Chilian, 350 

,, ,, or red-stalked Swiss Chard, 

350 

,, Covent Garden red, 109 

,, Dell's dark crimson dwarf, 107, 108 

,, Dewing's early blood-red, 107 

,, Draccena-leaved, 107, 108 

,, dwarf Dell's dark crimson, 107, 108 

,, ,, red, Nutting's, 107 

., Egyptian, Crosby's, 112 

,, ,, dark red turnip -rooted, 112 

,, Galloway Purple, 759 

,, Gardanne, 105 

,, garden, 104 

,, Globe, the crimson, no 

,, green-top, the Cheltenham, 112 

,, Henderson's Pine-Apple, Short's 

Pine-Apple, or Pine-Apple dwarf, 

112 

,, intermediate dark, Strasbourg Pear- 
shaped, Non Plus Ultra, 109 
,, Leaf, or Swiss Chard Beet, 347 
„ Lentz, 112 

,, long yellow or orange, 113 

,, non-bleeding, 759 

,, Non Plus Ultra, Strasbourg Pear- 
shaped, intermediate dark, 109 

„ Nutting's dwarf red, 107 

„ orange, long yellow, 113 

,, red Covent Garden, 108, 109 

,, ,, flesh varieties of, 104 

,, ,, rough-skin, 106 ' 

Rochester long smooth or blood -red 
long smooth, 105 

,, root, 102 

,, rough-skinned red, 105 

,, ,, sowing and storing, 103 

,, salad, Trevise early or Turin red 
spring, 109 

„ Sea-kale or Swiss Chard, 347, 348 

„ „ silvery, or silvery Swiss 
Chard, 349 

„ Short's Pine -Apple, Pine-Apple dwarf 
red, or Henderson's Pine-Apple, 112 

„ silvery Sea-kale or silvery Swiss- 
Chard, 349 

„ Strasbourg Pear-shaped, no 

„ Strasbovurg Pear-shaped, Non Plus 
Ultra, or intermediate dark, 109 

„ Trevise early or Turin red spring 
salad, 109 

„ „ red fiat, no 

„ Turin red spring salad, Trevise early 
or, 109 



INDEX 



787 



Beet, Turnip, Detroit dark red, in 
„ Dewing' s blood-red, no 

„ ,, early blood-red, no 
„ „ Eclipse, no, in 
„ ,, Egyptian dark red, 112 
„ ,, yellow or orange, 113 
,, Victoria, 112 
,, Whyte's black, 107 
Benincasa cerifera, 341 
Beta vulgaris, 102, 347 
Borage, 113, 114 
Borago officinalis, 113 
Borecole, cabbage-curled winter, 151, 152 
,, „ English Thousand-headed 

or branching, 162 
„ curled, dwarf purple, 160 
„ ,, laciniated, 161 

„ Flanders purple or Flanders Kale, 
162 

„ or Kale, 158 

or Palm-tree Cabbage, 161 
,, proliferous, 161 
,, tall purple, 160 
„ variegated or garnishing Kale, 160 
Brassica caulo-rapa, 164 
,, eruca, 637 
,, napus, 730 
,, nigra, 446 
,, oleracea, 117 
,, ,, acephala, 158 

,, ,, Botrytis, 204, 217 

„ „ bullata, 144 

,, ,, capitata, 123 

sinensis, 170 
,, „ L. var., 171 

Broccoli, 114 

,, Adams' early white, 223 

,, Backhouse's white winter, 225 

,, Cattell's Eclipse, 226 

Cauliflower, Grange's early or 
Bath white, 226 
„ Champion, 226 
,, Chappel's Cream, 226 
,, Cooling's Matchless, 226 
„ Criterion, 226 
,, culture for market, 221 
,, early Penzance, 225 
,, Easter, 223 
,, French, large white, 222 

green Cape, 225 
,, growing for exhibition, 220 
„ heeling in, 219 
„ improved white sprouting, 225 
„ Knight's Protecting, 226 
„ late dwarf purple or Cockscomb, 
225 

„ ,, green or late Danish, 225 

„ Leamington, 226 

,, Ledham's Latest of All, 226 

,, Mammoth, large white, 223, 224 

,, Osborn's white winter, 225 

,, Protecting, 220 

,, purple, 224 

,, Cape, 216, 224 
„ ,, sprouting, 225 

„ „ ,, or Asparagus, 

224 

„ Roscoff white, 223 



Broccoli, Saint-Laud, 222 

,, Snow's Superb white winter, 226 

,, soil and manure, 219 

„ sowing and planting, 219 

„ Sulphur, 226 

,, Veitch's Protecting, 226 

Walcheren or Walcheren Cauli- 
flower, 214 
„ white extra early, 222 
,, ,, ,, large, 224 

,, Wilcove's, 226 
Brussels Sprouts, 114, 152 

,, „ culture, 154 

dwarf, 156 
„ „ „ half, 156 

„ ,, ,, Paris market, 155 

„ ,', gathering, 154 
„ ,, soil, 154 
Buckshorn Plantain, Hartshorn or Star 

of the Earth, 115 
Bunias orientalis, 638 
Burdock or Gobo, edible, 115, 116 
Burnet, garden, 117 
„ salad, 116 



C 

Cabbage, 117 

„ All-head, Faultless early or 

Eclipse, 142 
„ All-seasons or Vandergaw, 142 
„ Alsace autumn, 140 
„ Amager extra large, 137 
„ Atkins' Matchless, 141 
„ Autumn King or World Beater, 
143 

„ Bacalan, early, 128 
large, 129 

,, Barnes' early dwarf, or Prince's 
Nonpareil, 126 
Borecole, curled winter, 151, 152 
„ Braganza or Portugal, Sea-kale, 
151 

Brunswick, short-stemmed, 132 
„ Chinese, 170 
„ „ heading, 171 

,, ,, improved, 171 
,, clubbing, 776 
,, common, the. 123 
,, Cornish Paignton, or early 

Cornish, 141 
„ curled Couve Tronchuda, 151 
„ cutting, 120, 760 
„ dark red early, point-headed, 138 

Death's-head, 140 
,, Deep-head, 142 
,, Drumhead Bridgeport, 143 
,, ,, Christmas, 763 

Dax, 133, 134 
„ „ early Dutch, 132 

„ „ ,, ,, or early 

dwarf flat Dutch, 
132 

„ large red, or large 

red Dutch pickling, 
137, 138 

„ „ late flat Dutch, 134 



788 



INDEX 



Cabbage, Drumhead, Louisville, 143 

,, marbled Burgundy, 
139 

„ „ Mason's or Hundred- 

weight, Quintal, 
134 

„ ,, Premium late, or 

large late Drum- 
head, 143 
,, Savoy, large hardy 
winter, 149 

„ „ ,, large Vertus, 

148, 149 

„ ,, Schweinfurt Quintal, 

132 

,, ,, smooth-leaved, 130 

,, St. Denis, 130, 131 

„ ,, St. John's Day, dwarf, 

129 

„ Dutch Acme, late fiat, 143 

,, Premium late flat, 

143 

,, ,, select, 143 
,, ,, Excelsior late flat, 142 

,, ,, large red, or large red 

Drumhead pickling, 1^7, 
138 

,, early April, 762 

,, ,, Bacalan, 128 

,, ,, dark red Erfurt, 137 

,, ,, Ellam's, 762 

„ ,, Enfield Market, 761 

,, ,, Etampes, 125 

,, ,, extra. Express, 125 

,, ,, Habas, 133 

Ofienham, 763 
,, Paris Market, 126 
,, Rainham, 763 
,, ,, Tourlavillc, 127 

,, Yorlc, 123 

English Thousand-headed or 
branching Borecole, 162 
^, Erfurt, early dark red, 137 
,, ,, ,, small, 129, 130 

,, Etampes, early, 125 
„ Excelsior, late flat Dutch, 142 
,, Express, extra early, 125 

Filder, or Pomeranian, 135 
,, Flower of Spring, 763 
,, Fumel, 133 
,, Gratrcheff, giant flat, 141 
,, green glazed American, 136 
,, Habas early, 133 
,, Harbinger, 762 

hardy green colewort, 763 
,, ,, winter colewort, 760 

„ improved Nonpareil, 763 
,, ,, or French Thousand' 

headed, 162, 163 
„ Jersey Wakefield, 125 

Kaper-Kohl, 141 
,, large La Trappe or Mortagne, 
140 

late St. John's Day, 131 

Lingreville, 128 
„ Little Pixie or Tom Thumb, 141 
„ London Rosette colewort, 760, 763 

Lubeck, 141 



Cabbage, Luxembourg or Hard-heading, 

143 

Main-crop, 763 
Marble-head Mammoth, 143 
Mortagne, La Trappe or, 140 
Murcian, 142 
Oxheart early, 124 
,, large, 127 
Palm-tree, or Borecole, 161 
Paris Market, early, 126 
Parisian early flat spring, 129 

,, flat, 129 
Pe-Tsai, 171 

pickling, large red Dutch or large 

red Drumhead, 137, 138 
Pisa round, 141 
Polish red short-stem, 138 
Pomeranian, Filder or, 135 
Portugal, Braganza or Seakale, 
151 

Prince's Nonpareil, 126 

,, „ or Barnes's 

early dwarf, 126 
Quintal Auvergne, 135 
Red, when to sow, 762 
red Utrecht, 1^7 

Sarthe cow or large-leaved 

Jersey Kale, 162 
Savoy, Aire, 146 

,, ,, extra fine curled, 
147 

„ Cape or large late green, 
147 

dwarf early green curled, 
145 

,, ,, Robert, 145, 146 
,, early flat green curled, 146 

large Aubervilliers, 148 
,, Limay, 149 
,, long-headed, 148 
,, Norwegian, 150 
,, Paris, very early, 145 
,, small Belleville, 150 
,, St. John's, 144 
,, Tours, 146 
„ Ulm or early green curled, 
144 

„ Victoria, 147 

yellow curled or golden, 
T-A7 

Seakale, Braganza or Portugal, 
151 

sowing and planting, 119, 759 
spring early fiat Parisian, 129 
St. John's Day, late, 131 
Stonemason or Warren's Stone- 
mason, 143 
Succession, 142 
Sugar Loaf, 124 

summer, early Henderson's, 

130, 142 
Surehead, 143 

Tom Thumb, Little Pixie or, 141 
Tourlaville, early, 127 
Tree or Jersey Kale, 161 
turnip-rooted, Swedish turnip, 

166 

variegated heading, 139 



INDEX 



789 



Cabbage, Vaugtrard, 136, 137 
„ Wheeler's Imperial, 763 

Winnigstadt, early, 135, 763 
winter curled-head, 136 
York, early dwarf, 123 
., ,, large, 123 

Cabbages, Savoy, 144 
Calendula officinalis, 402 
Campanula Rapunculus, 631 
Caper Bush, 172 
Capsicum annuum, 173 
Celestial, 183 
common, 175 

early dwarf red Spanish, 183 
Elephant's Trunk, 182 
Golden Dawn, 180 

„ Upright, 184 
insects, etc., 174 
Kaleidoscope, 183 
large Bell pepper, 179 
long red or Guinea pepper, 175 

,, yellow, 176 
Mammoth Golden Queen, 181 
Monstrous, 181 
Procopp's Giant, 183 
red pepper, 173 

„ Tomato or American 

Bonnet pepper, 182 
Ruby King, 180 
Spanish Monarch, 182 
spinosa, 172 

violet-coloured or black, 283 
Caraway, 184 
Cardamine pratensis, 263 
Cardoon, 185 

artichoke-leaved, 188, 189 
ivory-white, 187, 188 
long Spanish, 188 
prickly Tours, 187 
smooth solid, 188, 189 
tying and earthing up, 186 
Carrot, 189 

Altringham, 200 
Bardowick, 204 
coreless long red, 199 
Dutch Horn, 193 
Dutch Horn, early scarlet, 193 
early Carentan, 196 

„ Nantes, 195 
English Horn or early half long 

scarlet, 194 
Flanders or Sandwich, 201 
French Horn or earliest short- 
horn, 193 
half-long blunt scarlet, 195 
,, Chantenay, 197 

Danvers orange, 197, 198 
,, Luc, 197 

,, scarlet early Nantes, 196 
James^ intermediate, 195 
long blood-red, 201 
,, lemon, 202 
,, ,, short, 203 
,, orange, 204 
,, Surrey or long red, 199 
,, yellow stump-rooted, 203 
orange Belgian or long orange 
green-top, 202 



Carrot, Oxheart blunt-rooted Guerande, 
194 

„ Parisian forcing, 193 

„ red long smooth Meaux, 199, 200 

„ Valery, 198 

„ yellow Intermediate or long yellow 
stump-rooted, 203 
Carrots, autumn sowing, 191 
,, diseases and insects, 191 

early and main crops, 191 
,, forcing, 190 
,, storing, 191 
,, wild, improving, 203 
Carura Carvi, 184 
Cat Mint, 438 
Cauliflower, 204 

Algiers, large, 213 
Alleaume's dwarf, 211 
culture in market gardens, 
208 

Dutch early or early London, 
214 

Erfurt early dwarf, 210 
French, large white, 213 
Grange's early or Bath white, 

226 
Imperial, 211 
Incomparable, 215 
Italian Giant, self-protecting, 
215 

late Asiatic, 214 
Lenormand's short-stalked, 212 
Paris forcing earliest, 211 
„ large, 213 

,, or Nonpareil, half -early 
or, 212 

planting under handlights, 
207 

Russian, the, 216 
Snowball, early, 210 
Stadtholder, 214 
Veitch's Autumn Giant, 215 
Walcheren or Walcheren 
broccoli, 214 
,, watering and mulching, 208 
Celeriac, apple-shaped, 240 
Erfurt early, 239 
large early August or variegated- 
leaved, 239 
,, smooth Prague, 240 
Prague, 240 
smooth Paris, 239 
Turnip-rooted Celery or, 23S 
Celery, blanching, 228 

Boston Market, 237 
common, 231 

Crawford's half-dwarf, 237 
endive, 235 
Evans' Triumph, 237 
fern-leaved, 235 
for very early, 227 
golden heart or golden dwarf, 237 
Hartshorn, the, 235 
keeping, 230 
Leaf blight, 776 
Leaf miner, 777 
maggot, 777 
Mammoth, white, 236 



790 



INDEX 



Celery, market-garden culture, 229 

„ New Rose, 237 

„ Paris, golden, 233 

„ ,, rose-ribbed, 233 

„ Pascal, 233 

„ ,, white solid, 234 

„ Perfection Heartwell, 237 

„ Pink Plume, 238 

,, red large-ribbed, 236 

„ solid Arezzo, white, 233 

„ ,, curled white, 2S4, 2S5 

„ „ dwarf white, 234 

„ „ ,, „ large-ribbed, 234 

,, ,, golden-yellow, large, 232 

„ „ red giant, 236 

„ „ „ „ LondonMarketredor 

Ivery's Nonsuch, 

236 

,, „ white, 232 

„ „ ,, dwarf Sandringham or 
Incomparable, 235 

„ soup, 238 

„ trenches for, 228 

„ turnip-rooted, 239 

„ ,, or Celeriac, 238, 239 

„ White Plume, 234, 235 

,, Winter Queen, 238 
Chaerophyllum bulbosum, 242 
Chenopodium Bonus Henricus, 313 
Chervil, 240 

,, common or plain, 241 

„ curled, 241 

,, turnip -rooted, 242 
Chestnut, water, 75.3> 754 

„ „ fruit, 754 

Chick Pea, 243 

,, ,, white, 244 
Chickling Vetch, 243 
Chicory and Succory, 245 

,, broad-leaved, 248 

„ Brunswick, 246 

,, curled-leaved, 240 

„ improved variegated, 248 

„ large Brussels or Witloof, 247 

„ ,, rooted, 246 

,, Magdeburgh, 247 

„ or Succory, 244 

,, red Italian, 246 

,, ,, leaved Lombardy, 246 
Chillies or Chili Pepper, 177 
Chives, 249 

Chufa or Rush Nut, 640 
Cicer arietinum, 243 
Cichorium Endivia, 295 
,, Intybus, 244 
Citrullus vulgaris, 432 
Cladosporium fulvum, 780 
Clary, 250 

Claytonia perfoliata, 605 
Cochlearia Armoracia, 342 

,, officinalis, 6^6 
Colewort, Green Rosette, 156 

„ hardy green, 763 

,, London Rosette, 763 
Collard's Georgia, 160 
Convolvulus Batatas, 601 
Corchorus olitorius, 402 
Coriander, 250, 251 



Coriandrum sativum, 250 
Corn Salad, 251 

cabbaging, 254 

common or Lamb's Lettuce, 
251 

Etampes, 254 
golden, 253 
Italian, 255 

,, lettuce-leaved, 255 
large-seeded, 253 
round-leaved, 253 
spoon-leaved, 256 
Crambe maritima, 647 
Cress, American or Belle Isle, 262 
Brazil, 263, 264 
broad-leaved, 258 
common, 258 
curled, 258 

garden broad-leaved, 258 
,, common, 257 
,, curled or Normandy, 258 
,, extra curled dwarf, 258 
,, golden or Australian, 259 
meadow, 263 
or garden, 256 
Para, 263 
water, 259 
,, improved broad-leaved, 261, 262 
Crithmum maritimum, 643 
Crocus sativus, 640 
Crops, Rotation of, 773 
Cucumber, 264 

Blue Gown, 280 
Bonneuil, large white, 276 
brown-netted or Khiva, 274 
Cardiff Castle, 280 
Chinese green long, 281, 282 
Duke of Bedford, 280 
Dutch early yellow, 276 
early white, 275 
extra long white spine, 281 
Fournier, 277 

,, long green, 277 
Globe, 285 
Goliath, green, 281 
Greek or Athenian, 281 
green giant ridge, 277, 278 

,, Parisian long ridge, 278 
half-long green, 276 
Hamilton's Market Favourite, 
280 

improved Bourbonne, 283 
long English prickly, 279 
„ green, 277 
,, Turkish, 274, 275 
Marquis of Lorne, 280 
pickling, early Cluster, 283 
„ ,, frame, or early 

short, 282 
„ ,, white spine, 284 

green Meaux, 283 
,, or Gherkin, 282 
Rollissons Telegraph, 279 
Snake, 284 

Stourbridge long green, 278 
Tender and True, 280 
Tuscan solid green, 281 
white Parisian long ridge, 275 



INDEX 



791 



Cucumber, white spine Arlington or im- 
proved, 282 
,, ,, ,, extra long, 282 

Cucumbers in market gardens, 270 
,, ,, pits and frames, 267 

„ ,, the open air, 272 

„ on hot beds, 268 

„ ridge, 280 

„ soil and manure for, 270 

„ summer and autumn, 268 

,, winter and spring, 265 

Cucumis Anguria, 285 
,, MeTo, 284, 404 
,, ,, var. flexuosa, 284 
,, prophetarum, 285 
Cucurbita, 314 

„ Lagenaria, 338 
„ maxima and varieties, 315 
,, moschata and varieties, 326 
,, Pepo and varieties, 328 
Cumin or Cummin, 286 
Cuminum Cyminum, 286 
Cm lies, dwarf, German Greens, Canada or 

Labrador dwarf green Kale, 159 
Custard Marrow, 333 

green, 334 
,, „ improved variegated, 335 
„ „ or Elector's Cap, 334 
„ „ orange-coloured, 335 

„ striped, 335 
„ „ white hushed scalloped, 
334 

,, ,, yellow, 334 
Cynara Cardun cuius, 185 

,, Scolymus, 3 
Cyperus rotundus, 640 

D 

Dandelion, 286 

,, improved giant erect, 288 
„ „ very early, 287, 288 

„ large green Montmagny, 288 
„ moss-leaved, 288, 289 
,, thick-leaved or cabbaging, 287 

Daucub Carota, 189 

Dill, 289 

Dioscorea Batatas, 755 
Dolichos, 97 

„ iDlack-eyed, 97 

„ sesquipedalis, 98 

„ unguiculatus, 97 

E 

Egg-plant, 289 

„ Antille= giant, 294 
„ „ Black Pekin, 293 
„ „ Catalonian, 294 
„ „ Chinese Brinjal or white China, 
294 

„ „ Madras, 293 
„ ,, Murcian, 294 
„ „ purple Barbentane very early 

long, 291 
„ „ „ early dwarf, 291 
„ „ long, 290 

„ early, 290 



Egg-plant, purple New York, 293 
J, ,, ,, round, 292 
,, Thibet, 294 
,, white, 294 
Endive, 295 

,, Batavian broad-leaved, 305 
» hardy green winter, 307 

» „ hooded or hardy green 

winter, 306 

ji „ Bordeaux, the, 307 

J, ,, white, the, 306, 307 

„ blanching and protecting, 296 
,, culture in Britain, 296 
,, curled Christmas, 304 
;> ever -white, 303, 304 

}> „ green Paris, 298 

>> j> Ruffec, 302 

>j >j Upright, 300 

,, Imperial, 302 

moss, 303 
,, white, 303 
,, intermediate Bordeaux, 304 
,, Limay, broad-leaved, 306" 
,, Louviers, 301 
,, Picpus curled, 299 
,, Rouen or Stag' s-horn, 300, 301 
,, summer golden-heart curled, 299 
green curled, 298, 299 
winter green fine-curled, 299 
Eruca sativa, 637 
Ervum Lens, 359 
Erysimum pra-cox, 262 
Evening Primrose, 307, 308 

F 

Fab a vulgaris, 24 
Fedia Cornucopiae, 753 
Fennel, 308 

,, common garden or long sweet, 308 

,, ,, wild or bitter, 308 

,, Finnochio or Florence, 309 

,, flower, 310 
Fceniculum officinale, 308 

,, vulgare, 308 

Fragaria, 671 

„ alpina, 673 

„ chilensis, 678 
collina, 678 

,, eiatior, 677 

„ grandiflora, 678 

„ ve5ca, 672 

„ virgin iana, 678 

G 

Garden Cress, broad-leaved, 258 
,, ,, common, 257 
,, „ curled or Normandy, 258 
,, „ extra curled dwarf, 258 
,, „ golden or Australian. 259 
,, ,, or Cresf, 256 
Garlic, common, 31c, 311 
,, early pink, 312 
,, great-headed, 312 
,, red, 312 
Gherkin, Boston pickling or green Pro 
„ lific, 284 



792 



INDEX 



Gherkin, Chinese, the, 284 
„ early Russian, 273 
green Meaux, 283 
,, or pickling Cucumber, 282 
„ prickly or West Indian, 285 
„ Toulouse, 284 

West Indian, 285 
Gherkins, 273 

Goto or edible Burdock, 115, 116 
Gombo, Okra or, 453 
Goosefoot, early, or white Quinoa, 313 
Gourd, bottle, common, 340 

,, ,, miniature, 340, 341 

Brazilian sugar, 330 
,, carpet bag or Maple squash, 326 
„ ,, early, or early Neapolitan 

squash, 327 

club, 339 

early apple, 337 

egg, 338 

fancy warty, 338 

,, white-striped, 337, 338 
,, fiat Corsican, 340, 341 
„ Mammoth Whale, 323, 324 
,, miniature, 337 

orange, 337 
,, pear, 336 
„ ,, ringed, 336 

powder-horn, 340, 341 
„ siphon, 339 

., small Chinese turban, 324, 326 
„ Spanish pumpkin or, 318 
,, Turk's Cap or turban, 324, 325 
„ wax, 341 

„ winter Canada or crook-necked, 328 
Yokohama, 327 
Gourds, 314 

„ bottle, 338 
fancy, 335 
Grass, scurvy, 646 

Greens, German dwarf Curlies, Canada or 
Labrador dwarf green 
curled Kale, 159 
„ „ tall or winter, 158 

H 

Hartshorn, Star of the Earth, or Bucks- 
horn Plantain, 115 
Helianthus tuberosus, 10, 758 
Hibiscus esculentus, 453 
Hop, 341 
Horehound, 342 
Horse-radish, 342, 343 
Hyssop, 344 

Hyssopus of&cinalis, 344 
I 

Ice-plant, 345 

Indian Corn, Maize or, 400 

„ Cress, Nasturtium or, 448 



Jews' Mallow, 402 

K 

Kale, asparagus or Jerusalem green curled, 
159 



Kale, Cottagers', 164 

curled green dwarf, German Greens, 
dwarf Ctirlies, Canada or Labrador 
Kale, 159 
Egyptian, 164 
„ Flanders, or purple Flanders Bore- 
cole, 162 

„ garnishing, variegated Borecole or, 
160 

,, intermediate moss-curled, 159 

„ Jersey kale, or tree cabbage, i6x 

,, ,, large-leaved or Sarthe cow 

cabbage, 162 
,, ,, tree or, 162 
,, Jerusalem green curled or asparagus, 
159 

,, ,, or Delaware, 164 

,, marrow, 163 

,, red, 163 

Milan, 164 

Mosbach winter, 158 
„ or Borecole, 158 
„ Ragged Jack, 164 
,, Russian, 157 
„ Scotch or late green curled, 158 
,, tall purple or purple winter Greens, 
160 

Kohl-Rabi, 164 

,, artichoke-leaved, 166 
„ common white, 165 

Neapolitan, the, 166 
,, purple, 165 
,, Vienna early purple, 166 
,, ,, white, 166 

white Goliath, 165 

L 

Lablab vulgaris, 100 
Lactuca angustana, 398 

,, capitata, 362 

,, perennis, 399 

,, sativa, 360 
Lagenaria vulgaris, 338 
Lappa edulis, 115 
Lathyrus sativus, 243 
Lavandula spica, 346 
,, vera, 346 
Lavender, common, 346 

,, true, 346 
Lavenders, 345 

Leaf Beet or Swiss Chard Beet, 347 

,, ,, white, 348 

,, ,, „ or Spanish Beet, 348 
Leek, 350 

Brabant short broad, 357 

,, broad or London flag, 355 

,, Bulgarian, 354 

,, Carentan, giant, 357 

,, Lion, the, 358 

„ Mezieres, long, 353, 354 

„ Musselburgh or Scotch flag, 358 

„ Perpetual, 357, 358 

Poitou, large yellow, 355, 356 

„ Rouen, large, 356 

„ small mountain, 35S 

,, winter Flanders, 357 
long Paris, 353 
Lens esculenta, 359 



1 



INDEX 



793 



Lentil, Auvergne, or One-flowered Tare, 
360 

,, large yellovr, 359 
Puy green, 360 
small March, 360 
,, ,, winter, 360 
Lentils, 359 

Leontodon Taraxacum, 2S6 
Lepidium sati\nim, 256 
Levisticmn officinale, 399 
Lettuce, 360 

Algiers, 371 
American curled, 397 
,, asparagus, 39S 
,, Beauregard, laciniated, 397 
„ Bigotte, 369 

,, blond Stonehead or Blockhead, 
sSi 

„ Boston Market, 3:^7 
,, broivn Stonehead or Blockhead. 
37S 

„ butter, black-seeded, 386 
„ Califomian cream, 386 

„ Philadelphia, 3 So 
St. Louis, 3S6 
cabbage, 362 

BeUegarde, 3 S3 
bUuk-seeded Ali-ihe-Year- 
Round, 372 

,, ,, ,, crisped, 367 

Blond Blockhead, 382 
brown, 3S3 
,. ., ,, Bata-oian or Mar- 

seilles, 3S0, 3S1 
Genoa, S77 
„ .. Ccquille, 369 

., curled German Bata-cian 
or curled Silesian, 380 
„ Dutch, 384 

., butter-head early 
or, 370 

,. ,, black-seeded, 384 

J, ., black-seeded 

brown, 384 
„ „ ,, white-seeded 

brown, 376 
„ >, early Simpson, 379 

„ „ white spring or 

Paris Market 
forcing, 368 
„ ,, George, early white 

spring, 370 

„ ,, giant summer, 377 

„ „ golden-headed, 372 

„ ,, green crisped, 370 

,, A'^^. 374. 375 
,, ,, ,, Tennis Ball, 370 

„ Hammersmith, 363 

„ „ Hammersmith, or hardy 

green winter, 363 
„ „ Imperial or Asiatic, 374 

„ „ im.proved spotted, 378, 

379 

„ „ large Bosstn. 381, 382 

„ „ ,r Versailles, 373 

„ .. }^iarvel of Cazard, 372 

„ „ „ or red Besson, 

37S 



Lettuce, Cabbage, Miily forcing, 366 
^^ogul, 376 
„ „ „ or black-seeded 

giant summer, 
, 3S7 

„ Mortatella, 3S4 
„ Mousseronne, 370 

„ „ Xeapolitan, 5S1 

„ ,, New Gem, 3S5 

„ Pas de Calais, 3 85 

„ „ Premium, 3 So 

» „ red, 3S5 

„ „ ,, edged Trocadero or 

Big Boston, 375 
„ „ ,, edged Victoria, 369 

„ „ Roquette, 365 

„ spotted, 3S5, 3S6 

spring varieties, 366 
:, Turkish or butter^ 
Russian or Asiatic, 
,374 

„ L nrivalled, 376 

,, or improved 
Big Boston, 375 
„ white-seeded crisp or 
early Paris cutting, 
367 

„ white-seeded Tennis Ball 
or Boston Market, 367 
white Stone, 3S6 
„ „ or Nonpareil, 

373, 374 

„ winter brown, 364, 365 
„ hardy red, 365 
,, large white, 364 
„ Madeira large, 

362 

„ ,, Tremont, 364 

,. .. varieties, 362 

Cal:'crnia c:'.;'.c.i. 337 
Cendrette du Ha\Te, 35.1 
Chartier, :S5 
Cha,:zK:. \.-.::e, 373 
Cocasse a '^r^me >,Gire, 369 
Cos Balloon, 392 
,, black-seeded Bath, 394 
,, ,, Florence or Mag- 

num Bonum, 392 
„ brown or Bath, 393 
„ dwarf white-heart, 396 
„ early white self-folding Tria- 
non, 390 
„ gray Paris, 390 
„ green Limagne, 3S9 
„ Paris, 389 

or Buckland, 3S9 

„ ground, 391 
,, improved spotted, 394 

large white Du Chesnay, 391 
„ Magdalena, 396 
„ Monstrous brown, 393 
,, Romaine Blonde de Xiort, 
395 

„ Chicon Jaime Su- 

perieure, 396 
,, „ de Chalabre, 395 

,, „ du Mesique, 396 

„ ,, tpinerolle, 395 



C 

i 



794 



INDEX 



Lettuce, Cos, Romaine Frisee Bayonnaise, 
396 

,, Parisienne, 396 
spotted or Aleppo, 394 
spring and summer, 389 
sprouting, 395 
summer varieties of, 391 
white long-standing, 392 
,, Paris, 390 
„ seeded Bath, 393 
,, ,, Florence or Mag- 
,, numBonum,29f 
winter green, 388 
„ red, 388, 389 
,, Royal green, 388 
,, varieties of, 388 
curled German Batavian, 380 
cutting black-seeded, 396, 397 
„ endive-leaved, 398 
,, oak-leaved, 398 
,, white, 396 
Dauphine, 370 
De Neris, 385 
„ Zelande, 386 

Deacon or San Francisco Market, 
386 

Detroit Market Gardeners', 387 
Drumhead, 387 

,, Malta or Ice, 382, 383 
earliest dwarf green, 371 
early curled Silesia, 387 

,, Ohio or Nonpareil, 379 
Empereur a Forcer, 371 
Eureka, 387 
Fontenay, 384 
Fox Sterling, 386 
Frankfort, 384 
French Tom Thumb, 368 
Gardener's Favourite, 387 
George, 370 
golden curled, 387 

,, Queen, 386 
Grasse de Bourges, 370 
green Madrid, 382 
Hamilton Market, 387 
Hanson, 387 
Hubbard's forcing, 371 
,, market, 386 
India head, 386 

Lamb's or common Corn Salad, 
251 

large brown and hard-head, 386 
India, 387 
„ loaf, 386 

,, yellow-Surehead, 386 
Lebcsuf, 383 

Marble-head Mammoth, 386 
Maximum, 386 
Moonshine, 387 
Morse, the, 387 
Mortella, 385 
Myers' "All-right," 386 
new Egyptian sprouting, 398 

,, large-head, 387 
Nonpareil, 387 
Normandy, large, 375 
perennial, 399 
perpetual, 387 



Lettuce, Rose ou Rouge d'Ete, 385 
Russian, 386 
Salamander, 387 
Silver Ball, 386 
Sugar-loaf, 387 
Tannhauser, 386 
Tennis Ball, black-seeded, 387 
Titlon's White Star, 387 , 
Tomhannock, 387 
Wheeler's Tom Thumb, 369 
white Batavian or Sile=ian, 380 
Madeira, 363 
„ seeded All-the-Y ear -Round, 

371, 372 
,, Silesian, 380 
winter hardy green, 387 
Wonderful, 387 
Lettuces, Cos, 387 

small or cutting, 396 
spring, 362 
summer, 362, 371 
winter, 361 

yellow-seeded butter or Market 
Gardeners' private stock, 386 
Ligusticum Levisticum, 399 
Lotus Tetragonolobus, 549 
Lovage or Lovache, 399 
Love-Apple, Tomato or, 707 
Lycopersicum esculentum, 707 



M 

Maize, Concord, 401 
,, early Crosby, 401 
„ ,, Minnesota, 401 
„ extra early dwarf, 401 
,, large early eight-rowed, 401 
,, or Indian Corn, 400 
,, Stowell's evergreen late, 401 
Mallow, curled or curled-leaved, 401 

,, Jews', 402 
Malva crispa, 401 
Mangel Wurzel, 600 
Marigold, pot, 402 
Marjoram, pot or perennial, 403 
,, sweet or annual, 404 
Marrow, bush, long white, 331 
„ custard, 333 

green, 334 
,, improved variegated, 335 
,, or Elector's Cap, 334 
,, ,, orange -coloured, 333 

striped, 335 
„ „ white bush, scalloped, 334 

„ yellow, 334 

,, Prolific early, 321 
,, squash Boston, 321 
„ ,, Ohio or Californian, 322 

„ vegetable, 329 
„ ' „ Italian, 331, 332 

„ ,, long yellow, 330 

,, warted, 320 
Marrubium vulgare, 342 
Martynia, 752 
Meadow Cress, 263 
Melissa officinalis, 20 
Melon, 405 

Antibes, green-flesh, 418 



INDEX 



795 



Melon, Bailey's green-fleshed, 422 

Baltimore or Acme, 422 
Beechwood, 422 
Blanc a Chair Verte, 418 

„ de Russie, 418 
Blenheim Orange, 421 
bomb-shaped, 425, 426 
Boulet de Canon, 418 
Cantaloup, Algerian, 428, 429 
,, apple-shaped, 424 
,, Archangel, 430 
, Bellegarde, 423 
,, Black Dutch, 430 
,, ,, Portugal or Rock, 

429 

„ early Black Rock or Des 

Carmes, 425 
„ ,, English, 430 

Epinal, 430 
green-fleshed, 429 
,, large rock, 426, 427 
,, Mogul, 430 
,, or Rock, 423 
,, orange, 430 

Parisian, 427, 428 
„ Passy, 430, 431 
5, PrescottaEcorceMince, 
431 

„ „ Cul de Singe, 

431 

„ ,, silvery, 427 

,, sugar, 426 
,, Vaucluse, 424 
Vauriac, 428 
Cavaillon green-fleshed or Malta 
summer, 416 
red- fleshed, 415 
,, „ ribbed, 416 

Christiana, 421 
Colston Bassett seedling, 422 
Composite, 419 
Crawley Paragon, 421 
Cyprus, 418 
Davenham early, 422 
de Cassaba or de la Casba, 418 
,, Coulommiers, 419 
d'Esclavonie, 419 
de Langeais, 419 
early crop, 407 
Eastnor Castle, 422 
Emerald Gem, 421 
golden Perfection, 412, 413 

„ Queen, 423 
green climbing, 412 

,, fleshed Egyptian, 422 
Gilbert's, 422 
Hackensack, 423 

,, extra early, 423 

Hero of Bath, 421 

,, Lockinge, 422 
High Cross hybrid, 423 
Hornfleur, 414 

very long netted, 415 
hybrid Vallerand, 415 
Japanese early green, 420 
Longleat Perfection, 422 
Montreal Market, 423 
Moscatelle, 419 



Melon, Munro's Little Heath, 421 
Musk Bay View, 422 

,, Surprise, 421 
Netted Gem or Rock Ford, 423 
Netted Siam, 420 

,, Skillman's, 423 
Nutmeg, 414 

Osage or Miller's Cream, 421 
Paris Market Garden, 413 
,, ,, ,, roimd netted, 

413 

Paul Rose or Petoskey, 421 
Persian or Odessa, 419 
Pine - Apple green-fleshed or Jersey 
green citron, 411 
,, red-fleshed, 411 
Pomegranate, 431 
Prescott early frame, 425 
Queen Emma, 422 
Quito, 420 
red-fleshed, 42r 

,, scarlet flesh, 421 
Scarlet Gem, 421 
St. Louis Market Garden, 414 
sugar, green-fleshed, 420 
,, Tours netted, 413 
sweet-scented or Queen Anne's 

Pocket, 431 
Victory of Bath, Gilbert's im- 
proved, 423 
,, ,, Bristol, 421 
water, 432 

,, black-seeded, 434 
„ ,, Spanish, 435 
,, citron, 435 
,, Cuban Queen, 435 
„ dark icing, 436 
,, early Rodosto, 433 
„ „ j> very early, 
433 

„ ,, Russian, 433 

Excelsior, 435 
„ Florida Favourite, 435 
„ Gipsy, 435 

Ice Cream or Peerless, 463 
icing. Ice-rind, or straw- 
berry, 436 
„ Mountain or Mountain 

Sweet, 436 
„ Mountain Sprout, 436 
,, orange, 436 
,, Rattlesnake, 436 
„ red-seeded, 435 
,, ,, ,, or red-fleshed, 
434 

„ round light icing. Ice-rind 

strawberry, 436 
,, Seikon, 434 
,, ,, very early, 434 
Sweetheart, 436 
William Tillery, 423 
Windsor Prize, 421 
winter green-fleshed, 417 
,, Olive, 471 

,, red-fleshed Malta, 416, 417 
Melons, American varieties, of, 435 
bottom heat for, 410 
Cantaloup varieties of, 430 



796 



INDEX 



Melons, English and American varieties, 
420 

„ forcing, 406 

general crop, 407 
,, green-flesh varieties, 422 
,, netted varieties, 411, 418 
,, open-air culture, 410 
,, soil for, 410 
,, white-fleshed varieties, 422 
Mentha Pulegium, 437 

viridis, 436 
Mesembrianthemum crystallinum, 345 
Mint, Cat, 438 
,, Cluster cup fungus, 777 
,, Japanese, 437 
,, or Spearmint, 436 
Mugwort, 438 

Mushroom-bed in the open air, protected 
with straw, 444 
,, ,, movable two-sided, 443 
,, spawn in clumps, 443 
,, tablet, 439 
Mushrooms, 438, 440 

„ beds placed against a wall, some 

movable, 441 
„ grown in a tub, 442 

Mustard, black, brown, or grocer's, 446 
,, Chinese cabbage-leaved, 446, 447 
,, „ curled, 448 

,, „ tuberous-rooted, 447 

„ white or salad, 446 

N 

Nasturtium, dwarf, 449 

,, or Indian Cress, 448 

,, officinale, 259 

,, tuberous-rooted, 449 

Nepeta cataria, 438 

Nigella sativa, 310 

Nightshade, black-berried, 450 
,, Malabar, 451 

Nut, Pea, 550 
„ ,, Earth Nut or Ground Nut, 549 
,, Rush or Chufa, 640 

O 

Ocimum Basilicum, 21 
CEnothera biennis, 307 
Oka-plant, 452 

,, ,, tubers of, 452 
Okra, dwarf Prolific, 454 

,, early Sultani, 454 

„ long-fruited green, 453, 454 

„ or Gombo, 453 

,, round-fruited, 454 

,, white velvet, 454 
Onion, 454 

Ailsa Craig, 763 

B arietta, small white extra early, 458 
,, Bedfordshire Champion, 472 
,, blood-red or St. Thomas', 647 
„ bright red Augtist, 467 
„ brown Portugal, 462 
„ Brun de Sainte-Laurent- 472 
„ Cabosse, 472 
„ Cantello's Prize, 472 
. ,, Catawissa, 470, 471 



Onion, Chamois glatte Wiener Zwiebel, 472' 
,, common pale red, 465 
,, Como flat yellow, 472 
„ Cranston's Premier, 763 
„ ,, Excelsior, 763 

d'Aigre, 471 
„ Danvers yellow, 463 
„ De Genes, 474 

,, Puyregner or Rouge d' Angers^ 
474 

„ „ Teneriffe, 474 

„ „ Vaugiraud, 475 

,, ,, Villefranche, 475 

,, Deptford or Essex, 473 

,, Dutch, large yellow, 473 

,, ,, white round, 460 

,, early flat red, 467, 473 

,, ,, Paris silver-skinned, ^sg 

,, „ white Nocera, 459 

,, ,, „ Valence, 460 

,, Exhibition, 763 

„ Fly, 777 

„ Geant de Garganus Blanc, 473 
Rouge, 473 

,, giant Rocca, 469 

,, ,, Zittau, 464 

,, Globe red, 474 

,, ,, white, 475 

,, ,, ,, or Southport white, ^67 

„ Italian blood-red flat, 469 

,, James's Keeping, 465 

,, Keeping Market Favourite, 465 

,, Lescure yellow, 473 

,, Lisbon, white, 461 

,, Miziires, bright red, 473 

,, Monteragone, 474 

,, Mulhouse, 473 

„ Naseby Mammoth, 474 

,, Neapolitan Maggiojola white, 461 

,, New Queen, 458, 459 

,, Niort pale red, 466 

,, Niirnberger Zwiebel, 474 

„ Palle de Chateau Renard, 473 

,, ,, Gros de Bale, 472 

„ pear-shaped, 470 

,, Port Sainte-Marie very early rose- 
coloured, 465 

„ Potato, 471 

„ Rouge de Castillon, 472 

„ „ „ Salon, 474 

„ „ ,, pale d'Alais, 472 

„ ,, „ de Tournon, 475 

„ ,, Monstre, 474 

„ Russian, yellow, 474 

„ Spanish, brown Portugal or straw- 
coloured white, 462 

„ „ Giant or Spanish Kingy 
464 

„ „ sulphur -coloured white 

Reading or, 462 
,, Trebons, yellow, 463 
„ Tree, Egyptian or Bulb-bearing, 47a 

Tripoli flat, 468 
,, „ ,, or flat red Madeira, 468 
,, „ Globe or Madeira, 468 
„ „ Italian, 462 
,, ,, ,, large white flat, 461 

two-bladed, 475 



INDEX 



797 



Onion, Welsh early white or English, 476 
„ or Ciboule, 475 

„ „ ,, ,, common or French 

Red, 478 
„ perennial, 476 

Wethersfield, 475 
Orache, 477 

,, dark red, 477 
,, green or Lee's Giant, 478 
,, white, 477 
,, ,, or yellow, 477 
Origanum Majorana, 404 

,, vulgare, 403 
Oxalis acetosella, 660 
,, crenata, 452 
,, Deppei, 660 
Oyster-plant, Spanish, 478 
„ Vegetable, 478 

P 

Para Cress, 263 
Parsley, 478 

,, Champion moss-curled, 481 
,, common or plain, 480 

double curled, 481 
,, ,, dwarf, 481 

fern-leaved, 481, 482 
,, Hamburgh early, 483 

,, late, 482 
,, market-garden culture, 480 
,, tiirnip -rooted or Hamburgh large- 
rooted, 482 
Parsnip, hollow-crown, half-long, or Stu- 
dent, 486, 487 
,, ,, long smooth, 485, 

486 

„ long, 485, 486 
,, round, 487 
Parsnips, 483 

,, soil for, 484 
,, sowing and th inning, 484 
,, storing, 484 
Pastinaca sativa, 483 
Patience Dock or Garden Patience, 488 

,, ,, or Herb Patience, 487 
Pea, Abundance, 545, 769 
,, Admiral, 545 

Dewey, 545 
,, Alaska blue, 506 
,, Alderman, 545 

Ambassador, 545 
., American Wonder, 526 

Annonay dwarf very early, 514 
Autocrat, 769 
Batt's Wonder, 541 
,, Beck's Gem, 541 

Bedman's Imperial, 542 
,, Bishop's early dwarf, 510 
„ long-pod, 510, 511 
Bivort, 537 

Blanc de Auvergne, 537 
„ Blue Beauty, 514 
„ ,, dwarf English, 542 

„ Prussian, 542 
„ Bountiful, 769 
„ Brittany, very dwarf, 515 
„ Buchsbaum-Erbse, 548 



Pea, Cafe, 537 

,, Captain Cuttle, 545 

,, Celebrity, 545 

,, Centenary, 769 

,, Champion of England, 545 

,, Charlton, 542 

,, Chelsea Gem, 526, 768 

,, Chick, 243 
,, ,, white, 244 

,, Clamart early, 500 
„ „ „ dwarf, 512 
,, ,, late, 504 

Claudit, 542 

,, Colossus, 520 

,, Connoisseur, 545 

,, Continuity, 769 

Couturier dwarf, SIS 

,, Criterion, 545 

,, Crown Prince, 545 

„ Daisy, 545 

,, Daniel O'Rourke, 495, 496 

,, De Cerons Hatif, 538 

,, ,, Commenchon, 538 

,, ,, Sans Parchemin, 540 

,, ,, Lorraine, 538 
„ Madere, 538 

,, Dickson's Favourite, 542 

,, Domine, 538 

„ Dore, 538 

„ Dr. Hogg, 545 
,, ,, MacLean, 545 

„ Duchess of York, 769 

,, Duke of Albany, 522, 523, 769 

„ „ York, 545 

,, Dutch dwarf, 511 

,, dwarf Blue Prussian, 513 

„ Dwarf, 767 

,, Earliest of All, 542 

,, Early, How to grow, 765 

,, early Emperor, 497, 542 
,, ,, or double-blossom frame^ 

497 

,, ,, frame, 498, 499 

,, giant, 769 

„ Kent, 543 

,, Maple, 546 

,, early William, 507 

,, edible-podded forty days', 527, 528 

,, Emerald Gem, 496 

„ English Wonder, 527, 768 

,, Etampes Wonder, 500, 501 

,, Eureka, 769 

,, Exonian, 546 

,, Express, 506 

,, Fairbeard's Surprise, 543 

„ Feve, 538 

,, First and Best or Prince Albert, 494 

,, Flack's Imperial, 543 

,, frame, early dwarf, 514 

,, Friolet Sans Parchemin, 540 

„ Friihe Heinrich's Zucker-Erbse, 548 

„ G. F. Wilson, 528 

„ Gardener's Delight, 546 

„ Geant, 538 

„ Gladiator, 513 

„ Gladstone, 769 

„ Gouvigny, 504 

,, Gradus, 518 



798 



INDEX 



Pea, green Hundred for One, 508 

„ Gross Jaune, 538 

„ ,, Quarantain de Cahors, 538 

„ Grosse graue Florentiner Zucker- 

Erbse, 548 

„ Hair's dwarf Mammoth, 546 

„ Harbinger, 543 

„ Hay's Mammoth, 546 

„ Hollandische griinbleibende spate 

Zucker-Erbse, 549 

„ Imperial dwarf blue, 512 

„ Incomparable, 769 

„ Jaune d'Or de Blocksberg, 548 

„ John Bull, 546 

„ Kapuziner-Erbse, 548 

„ Kelvedonian, 546 

„ Kentish Invicta, 543 

„ King Edward VH., 546, 769 

„ ,, of the Marrows or tall green 

Mammoth, 547 

„ Laxton's Alpha, 521 

„ „ Evergreen, 543 

„ „ Fillbasket, 512, 513 

„ „ Marvel, 546 

„ „ Omega, 546 

„ „ Prolific long-pod, 543 

„ „ Superlative, 543 

,, „ Supplanter, 543 

,, „ Supreme, 508 

„ „ The Shah, 518 

„ ,, Unique, 544 

„ le plus Hatif biflore de Gendbrugge, 

538 

„ Leopold II., 498, 499 

„ Lightning, 495 

,, Little Gem, 546 

„ MacLean's Best of All, 524, 525 

„ ,, Blue Peter, 516 

„ Mammoth late square or Normandy, 
509 

„ Mange-tout Demi-nain a (Eil Noir, 540 

„ Marly, 503 

„ Marrow, Giant, or Royal Victoria, 505 

„ „ Knighfs dwarf, 541 

„ „ ,, tall, 520 

„ „ late, 766 

„ „ Paradise, 544 

„ „ Peruvian Black-eye, 544 

„ „ Prizetaker, green, 544 

„ „ toll green wrinkled, 521, 522 

„ „ the late, 492 

„ „ Victoria, 505 

„ „ Woodford, 544 

„ „ wrinkled Knighfs dwarf 
green, 524 

„ ,, ,, white Eugenie, 523 

„ Masterpiece, 769 

„ May Queen, 546 

„ „ ,, very early, 496 

„ melting Saint-Desirat, 531, 532 

„ Michaux a CEil Noir, 537 

„ ,, de Nanterre, 538 

„ Migron, 539 

„ Minimum, 547 

„ Multum in Parvo, 547 

„ Nain gros BJanc de Bordeaux, 539 

» „ „ Sucre, 539 

„ „ vert de St. Michel, 539 



Pea, Nain vert Petit, 539 

„ Ne Plus Ultra, 547, 767, 769 

,, Nelson's Vanguard, 547 

,, Norwich Wonder, 547 

„ Nutting's No. i, 547 

,, Philadelphia extra early, 544 

„ Pioneer, 546, 768 

„ Pride of the Market, 516, 517, 769 

,, Prince Albert, 494 

,, Priace of Peas, 769 

„ Prince of Wales, 769 

,, Princess of Wales, 547 

„ purple-podded, 517, 518 

„ Quarantain, 539 

„ Quarante-deux, 539 
Quite content, 769 

„ Remontant vert a Demi-Rames, 539 
„ „ ^ >> a Rames, 539 

,, Ride tres-nain a Bordures, 539 

,, Royal dwarf, 544 

,, Ruelle Michaux, 497, 498 

,, Ruhm von Cassel-Erbse, 548 

„ Rural New Yorker, 495 

,, Sabre, 502 

,, Sangstefs No. i, 496 
„ ,, or improved early 

Champion, 495 

„ Sans Parchemin a Cosse Jaune, 540 
,, „ „ a Fleur Rouge, 540 

,, ,, „ Nain Capucine, 540 

„ „ „ „ Gris, 540 

„ „ „ „ Hatif de Hoi- 

lande, 541 

„ ,, ,, ,, Ordinaire, 541 

,, ,, ,, Ride Nain, 541 

„ Saumur, giant, 503, 504 

,, Scimitar blue, 541 
,, „ long-podded improved, 502 
,, ,, white, 501, 502 

„ Sehr friihe Buchsbaum de Grace, 549 

„ Sharpe's early Paragon, 547 

,, Sherwood, the, 548 

,, Shilling's Grotto, 547 

,, sowing and gathering, 767 

,, Standard, 547 

„ Stratagem, 527, 769 

„ Sugar, Debarbieux, 535, 536 
„ ,, early dwarf Brittany, 534 
„ „ giant, 533 
„ „ ,, very large-podded, 531 
,, „ large crooked or Scimitar, 529 
,, ,, ,, ., or Scimitar, pods 

of, 531 

,, „ tall butter, 528, 530 

,, ,, ,, early long-pod, 528, 529 

,, ,, ,, green-seeded, 529 

,, ,, very dwarf Dutch frame, 537 

„ TaU, 767 

,, Telegraph, 548 

„ Telephone, Carter's, 519 

„ three-podded, tall, 509 

„ Veitch's Perfection, 769 

„ Vert Nain du Cap, 540 

„ Wem, 548 

„ William Hurst, 527 

„ William the Conqueror, 544 

„ „ „ First, 506, 768 

„ winged, 549 



INDEX 



799 



Pea, Witham Wonder, 527 
„ wrinkled, 545 

„ ,, tall, large white or British 

Queen, 521 
„ „ Yorkshire Hero, 548 
,, „ Zwerg-Buchsbaum de Grace, 
549 

Pear Gourd, 336 

„ „ ringed, 336 
Peas, 488 

dwarf varieties, 514, 526 
English, 541 
French, 537 
German, 548 \^ 
half dwarf, 510, 523 

,, ,, and dwarf, 534 
round or smooth-skinned, 494, 541 
shelling, 494, 537 
smooth or green-seeded, 512 
,, ,, round white, 514 
,, ,, ,, ,, seeded, 510 
sowing and gathering, 492 
succession, 491 
sugar or edible-podded, 527 
tall and dwarf, 493 
„ climbing, 494, 518, 527 
,, round or smooth-seeded, 506 
white-seeded, 518 
wrinkled, 518 

green, 524 
,, ,, seeded, 526 

„ „ tall, 521 
Pennyroyal, 437 

Pepper, American Bonnet or red Tomato 

Capsicum, 182 
Pepper, Cardinal, 176 

,, Cherry, 178 

„ Chili or Chillies, 177 

„ Chinese giant, 183 

„ Coral Gem or Bouquet, 178 

„ Cranberry, 179 

„ early dwarf red Spanish, 183 

„ Golden Dawn, 180 

„ Guinea, or long red Capsicum, 175 

„ improved Bell-nose, 179 

„ large Bell or Capsicum, 179 

„ long Cayenne, 176 

„ ,, red Spanish, 175 

„ ,, yellow, 177 

„ Mexican long black, 177 

„ red, Capsicum or, 173 

,, ,, Cluster, 178 

,, ,, Tomato or Squash, 182 

,, Ruby King, 180 
Peppermint, 437 

Pe-Tsai or Chinese Cabbage, 171 
Petroselinum sativum, 478 
Phaseolus lunatus, 95 

,, multifiorus, 90 

,, vulgaris, 32 
Physalis pubescens, 729 
Pimpinella anisum, 2 
Pisum sativum, 488 
Plantago coronopus, 114 
Plantain, Buckshorn, Hartshorn, or Star 

of the Earth, 115 
Portulaca oleracea, 604 
Potato, Abdul Hamid, 598 



Potato, Abundance, 779 

Achille Lemon, 585 
Achilles, 598 
Adirondack, 596 
Agnelli's Jewel, 556 
Alice Fenn, 590 
Alkohol, 598 
Ally, 779 
Alpha, 596 

American Wonder, 574 
Arran Chief, 771 
Arran Comrade, 779 
Artichaut Jaune, 585 
Aspasie, 585 
Aurora, 598 
Beds Hero, 565 
Belle Augustine, 585 
„ de Vincennes, 585 
,, of Fontenay, 569 
„ „ July, 569, 570 
Biscuit, 599 
Bismarck, 599 
Blackleg of, 780 
Blaue Riesen, 599 
Bonne Wilhelmine, 585 
Bovinia, 590 
Brandale, 585 
Breesee's Peerless, 596 
Britannia, 591 
British Queen, 771 
Brownell's Beautv, 596 
Caillaud, 585 
Calico, 596 
Canada, 555 
Cardinal, 578, 579 
Centennial, 596 
Chancellor, 562 
Chandernagor, 585 
Chapman, the, 771 
Char don, 586 
Cigarette, 554 
Coldstream, or Hogg's 

stream, 591 
Comice d' Amiens, 586 
Compton's Surprise, 597 
Cottager's red, S77 
Crofter, 771 
Culture, 769, 770 
Czarina, 582 
Dalmahoy, 591 
Dargill early, 779 
Dawe's Matchless, 591 
Dean, the, 591 
De Malte, 587 
,, Zilande, 590 
Des Cordillieres, 586 
Descroizilles, 586 
early Cottage, 597 
„ Duke of York, 770 
„ Eclipse, 770 
,, Emperor Napoleon, 591 
,, Favourite, 770 
,, Goodrich, 597 
„ June, 591 
„ May Queen, 591, 770 
„ Midlothian, 770 
„ Ohio, 597 
,, Puritan, 592 



Cold- 



Soo 



INDEX 



Potato, early Rose, 576 

,, ,, Sharpe's Express, 771 

„ „ Victor, 771 

,, ,, Sir John Llewelyn, 770 

Snowdrop, 770 
,, ,, Varieties, 770, 771 

,, Victor, 565 
,, Edouard Lefort, 557 

EdzeU blue, 779 

Epicure, 770 
,, Euphyllos, 599 
,, Eureka, 597 
,, ExceUente Naine, 586 
,, Feinste kleine weisse Mandel, 599 

Fenn's early market, 592 
,, Friihe blaue Rosen, 599 
,, ,, rothe Markische, 599 

Garton, the, 592 
,, Gelbe Rose, 599 
„ Gem, 592 

General Roberts, 592 

Giant, Reading, 592 
,, ,, unequalled, 557, 558 

Gladiator, 771 
„ Globus, 599 

,, Golden Eagle or Radstock Beauty, 
592 

„ Wonder, 779 

,, Grampian, 592 

Great Scot, 771, 779 
,, Grosse jaune deuxieme hative, 
586 

„ Hannibal, 599 
„ Harbinger, 592 
„ Hative de Bourbon-Lancy, 586 
„ Hermann, 599 
„ Igname, 603 
„ Iniperator, 555, 556 
„ Incomparable, 584 
,, Institut de Beauvais, 575 
„ Internationale, 593 
Jaune, 603 

,, longue de Hollande, 586 
,, ronde hative de Provence, 
587 

„ Jeanci, 560, 561 

„ . Joseph Rigault, 573 

„ Juno, 599, 600 

„ Kaiser Kartoflel, 600 

„ Karl der Grosse, 600 

„ Kerr's pink, 779 

„ Kidney, Ash-leaved, pure, 594 

purple, 594 
„ ,, ,, Royal, 568, 

569 

„ ,, International, 592 
„ ,, nettle-leaved or early Bed- 
ford, 570 
,, Robertson's Giant, S77, 
578 

„ ,, Sutton's seedling, 562 
,, ,, Wcdnut-leaved, 566 

,, Wonderful red, 595 

,, Woodstock, 595 
„ King Edward, 771 
„ King George, 771 

King of the Earlies, 597 
„ ,, ,, Flukes, 593 



Potato, Kleopatra, 600 

Kopsell's friihe weisse Kartoffel, 
600 

,, Lady Webster, 593 

,, Lapstone or Yorkshire Hero, 564 

,, Late Rose, 597 

„ La Bretonne, 583 

„ Leda, 593 

„ Lerchen- Kartoffel, 600 

,, Lochar, the, 771 

,, Long Keeper, 771 

,, Lord of the Isles, 593 
M. Eiffel, 587 

,, Magnum Bonum, 563, 564 

,, Majestic, 779 

,, Manhattan, 597 

,, Marceau, 587 

„ MarjoUn, 566, 567 
Tetard, 568 

„ May Queen, 770 

„ Midlothian Early, 770 

,, milky white, 593 

„ Model, 593 

Mona's Pride, 594 
Montana, 600 

,, Naine Hative, 587 

,, Negresse, 581 

Noisette SainviUe, 587 

,, Norwegian golden-yellow, 554 

,, oblong and long yellow, 561 

,, Oblongue de Malabry, 587 

,, Ohio Junior, 561 

,, Our Boys, 594 

„ Pasteur, 5, 7, 588 

„ Paterson's Victoria, 594 

,, Patraque Blanche, 588 
Peach Blow, 598 

„ Peake's first early, 583, 584 

,, Porter's Excelsior, 594 

„ Pousse-debout, 578, 579 

,, Prince of Wales, 571 

,, Princesse, 572 
Professor, 594 

„ ,, Maerker, 556 

Quarantaine a Tete Rose, 588 
,, Quarantaine violet-coloured, 580 
,, Queen of the Polders, 562, 563 

„ „ Valley, 598 
,, Reading Russet, 594 
,, Rector of Woodstock, 594 
,, red-skinned Flour-ball, 573 
„ Regent or Shaw, 553 
„ Reine Blanche, 588 

„ de Mai, 588 
,, Rentpayer, 595 
,, Richter's Schneerose, 600 
„ Rickmaker, 588 
,, Riesen Sand- Kartoffel, 600 
,, Rognon Rose, 588 
,, Rohan, 589 
,, Rosalie, 600 
,, Rose de Malaga, 603 
,, Rosee de Cornflans, 589 
„ Rosette, 589 

,, Rothe Unvergleichliche Salat- 

Kartoffel, 601 
„ Rouge ronde de Strasbourg, 589 
„ Ruby, 598 



INDEX 



8oi 



Potato, Sachsische Zwiebel - Kartoffel 
gelbfleischige, 6oi 
„ Sachsische Zwiebel - Kartoffel 

weissfleischige, 6oi 
„ Saint Germain, 589 
„ „ Patrick, 595 
„ Sainte Helene, 589 
„ Saucisse Blanche, 589 
„ Schoolmaster, 595 
„ Scotch Blue, 595 
„ Champion, 559, 560 
„ seed tubers, sprouting, 771, 772 
„ Seguin, 559 
„ Snowdrop, 771, 779 
„ Snowflake, 561 
„ Spargel-Kartoffel, 601 
„ spraying, 771 

„ sprouting the seed tubers, 771, 772 

„ Standard, 595 
Superb, 595 

„ Sweet, 601 

„ „ red, 603 

„ Tanguy, 589 

„ Tardive d' Irlande, 589 

„ Tonwald perfection, 779 
Triumph, 598 

„ Truffe d' Aout, 589 

„ Turner's Union, 595 

„ Unica, 601 

„ Up-to-Date, 554, 771 

„ Van der Veer, 601 

,, variegated-leaved, 577 

„ varieties, select, 770 
Vicar of Laleham, 581 

„ Victor, 565 

„ Village Blacksmith, 575 

„ Violette, 590 

„ Vitelotte, 579, 580 

„ wart disease of, 778 

„ White Elephant, 576 

„ „ Emperor, 595 

„ „ Horn, 563 
WiUard, 598 

„ Windsor Castle, 771 

„ Wormleighton seedling, 596 

„ Xavier, 590 

„ Yam, 590 

„ yellow, early round, 553 

,, Yorkshire hybrid, 571 
Potatoes, 550 

„ English varieties, 590 

„ French varieties, 585 

,, German varieties, 598 

., Kidney, walnut-leaved, sprouted 
in a basket, 567 

„ red or pink oblong or long 
varieties, 575 

„ round red, 573 

„ violet-coloured, 580 
Poterium Sanguisorbal, 116 
Primrose, Evening, 307, 308 
Puccinia Menthce, yyy 
Pumpkin, Boulogne gray, 319 

„ Etampes, 317 

„ Globe Mammoth, 317 

„ large bronze-coloured Montlhiry, 
319 

„ „ green, 318 



Pumpkin, large Tours, 333 

,, long yellow, 316 
Nicaise, 318 

,, Spanish or Gourd, 318 
Pumpkins, 3x6 
Purslane, 604 • 

,, golden, 605 

„ green, 604, 605 

„ large-leaved, 605 

„ winter, 605, 606 

Q 

Quinoa, white, or Annual Goosefoot, 313 
R 

Radish, Ardeche field, 621 

„ Blanc Demi-long de la Meurthe- 

et de la Meuse, 630 
„ Californian, or Mammoth white, 

629 

„ De Mahon, 630 

„ deep scarlet intermediate, 615 

„ forcing bright red leafless, 612, 613 

„ ,, long white Pearl, 620 

„ French Breakfast, 615 

„ Friiher Zwei-Monat Rettig, 630 

„ Globe early deep scarlet, 612 

„ Gournay large purple, 627 

„ Gris et Oblong, 630 

„ Gros d'Hiver de Ham, 630 

„ Horse, 342, 343 

,, long Chartier, 619 

„ „ Normandy or Marsh, 620 

„ „ purple, 619 

„ „ scarlet or salmon-coloured, 

617, 618 
„ white Naples, 620 

„ ,, „ Vienna, 620 
,, olive-shaped deep scarlet white- 

tipped, 616 
„ „ deep scarlet white- 

„ „ tipped forcing, 616 

„ ,, early deep scarlet, 

616 

„ „ early deep scarlet, 

very, 616 

„ „ forcing white-tipped, 

615 

„ „ or intermediate, 614 

„ ,, piurple, 617 

„ „ scarlet, 614 

,, white, 617 

„ ,, forcing, 617 

„ Rat-tailed, 631 
„ Rond rouge fonce, 630 
„ summer black long, 624 
„ Triumph, 613 
„ Turnip, deep scarlet Pamir, 629 
„ ,, early purple, 614 
„ ,, „ scarlet white-tipped, 

611 

„ „ ,, scarlet white-tipped, 

forcing, 611 

„ „ forcing deep scarlet, 612 

„ „ ,, deep scarlet, white 

tipped, 612 

„ „ „ scarlet, 611 

51 



802 



INDEX 



Radish, Turnip, gray summer, 622 
„ ,, scarlet, 610 
„ ,, ,, early, 610 

»« Stuttgart early giant white, 

622 

., summer golden-yellow, 623 
„ ,, large white, 622 

„ „ ,, small black, 624 

„ „ summer white Strasbourg 
or white Hospital, 624 
„ „ summer yellow, 623 
„ ,, very early yellow, 614 
„ „ white, 613 
„ „ Chinese or Celestial, 

630 

„ „ ,, small early, 61-^, 61^ 

„ „ white tipped brightest 
scarlet or cardinal, 619 
„ white tipped cardinal, 619 

„ „ ,, purple, 614 

„ „ winter black Spanish, 625 
„ „ ,, Chinese scarlet, 628 

„ „ crooked or Mans 

Corkscrew, 621 
„ winter, Laon long gray, 626, 627 
„ large purple, 625, 626 

„ „ white Russian, 627, 

628 

„ ,, ,, Spanish, 627 

„ winter long black Spanish, 626 
,, Wood, early frame, 618 
Radishes, 606 

culture for market, 609 
long, 617 
„ other varieties of, 630 
„ round or turnip -rooted, 610 
,, small or forcing, 610 
„ special beds for, 608 
„ summer and autumn, 621 
,, ,, winter, 608 
winter, 625 
Rampion, 631 
Raphanus caudatus, 631 

sativus, 606 
Rheum, 632 

„ hybridum, 632 
Rhuhtirb, 632 

„ Daw's Champion, 773 

„ Hawkes' Champagne, 636, 773 

„ hybrid Florentine, 636 

„ market-garden culture, 635 

MitcheU's Royal Albert, 636 
„ Myatt's Linnaeus, 637 
„ ,, Victoria, 637 

„ Scott's Monarch, 637 
,, stalks of, 633 
,, Tobolsk, early red, 6^56 
Rocambole, 312 
Rocket Salad, 637, 638 

„ Turkish,' 638 
Rosemary, 638, 639 
Rosmarinus officinalis, 63 S 
Rotation of Crops, 773 
Rue, 639 
Rumex, 657 

acetosa, 657 
„ arifolius, 659 
montanus, 659 



Rumex Patientia, 487 
,, scutatus, 659 
Rush Nut, or Chufa, 640 
Ruta graveolens, 639 



Saffron-plant, 640, 641 

Sage, 641 

Salsafy, 478 

,, Mammoth Sandwich Islands, 642 
,, or Vegetable Oyster, 642 

Salvia officinalis, 641 
,, Sclarea, 250 

Samphire, 643 

Satureia hortensis, 644 
,, montana, 644 

Savory, summer, 644 
,, winter, 644, 645 

Savoy Cabbage, Aire, 146 

„ ,, extra fine curled, 147 

,, ., Cape or large late green, 

147 

„ ,, . Drumhead, large hardy 

winter, 149 

„ „ large Vertus, 

148, 149 

„ ,, dwarf early green curled, 

145 

„ ,, ,, Roblet, 145, 146 

,, early flat green curled, 146 
„ ,, large Aubervilliers, 148 

„ ,, Limay, 149 

,, „ long-headed, 148 

,, ,, Norwegian, 150 

,, ,, Paris very early, r45 

,, small Belleville, 150 
„ ,, St. John's, 144 

„ Tours, 146 

„ ,, Ulm or early green curled, 

144 

„ „ Victoria, 147 

„ „ yellow curled or golden, 

Scandix cerefolium, 240 
Scolymus hispanicus, 704 
Scorzonera, French, 646 
,, hispanica, 645 

,, picroides, 646 
Scurvy-grass, 646 
Sea-kale, 647 

,, market-garden culture, 651 

,, on the coast, 650 
Shallot, 654 

Jersey, 655 

„ ,, or false, 655 

,, ,, true, 654 
Sinapis alba, 446 
Slum Sisarum, 656 
Skirret, 656 

Solanum Melongena, 289 
,, nigrum, 450 

ovigerum, 294 
,, tuberosum, 550 
Sorrel, 657 

„ common, 657 

,, French broad-leaved, 658 

,, lettuce-leaved, 659 



INDEX 



803 



Sorrel, Maiden, 659 

O. Blonde de Sarcelles, 659 
„ round-leaved, 659 
„ tvhite large-leaved, 658 

wood, 660 
,, „ Deppe's, 660 
Soy Bean, 661 
„ „ common yellow, 661 
„ „ Etampes yellow, 662 
„ „ Podolian, 662 
„ ,, very early brown-seeded, 662 
Spearmint, Mint or, 436 
Spinach, 662 

,, Catillon long-standing, 670 
,, common, 665 
„ culture for market, 664 
„ Dutch, large, 666 
„ ,, round-seeded, round- 

leaved, 666 
„ Flanders round-seeded, 667 
„ late-standing, 669 
„ lettuce-leaved, 668 
„ long-standing or long-seeding, 
669 

„ New Zealand, 670 
„ roimd-seeded, 666 

„ Savoy-leaved or curled, 669 
„ summer, 663 

„ ,, Victoria dark green, 668, 

669 

„ Viroflay giant, 666 
„ ii'inter or large prickly, 665 
Spinacia glabra, 666 
,, oleracea, 662 
spinosa, 665 
Squash, hush, Geneva, 332 
,, Nice, 332 
„ chestnut, 330 

„ early bush or summer crook-necked, 

332, 333 
„ Hubbard, 321, 322 
„ ,, golden, 320 

„ large warted Portugal, 323 
„ Maple, Carpet-bag Gourd or, 326 
,, Marble-head, 322 
„ Marrow, Boston, 321 
„ ,, Ohio or Californian, 322 

„ ,, warted, 320 

,, musk, Mirepoix, 327 
„ Neapolitan or early carpet-hag, 327 
,, olive, 322 
,, Patagonian, 330, 331 
„ Valencia, 325 
,, Valparaiso, 320, 321 
Stachys tuberifera, 671 
Strawberry, Admiral Dundas, 697 
Albany, 680 

Alpine Belle de Meaux, 674, 675 
„ Berger, 676 

hush, red, 675 
„ Janus, 675 

red, 673, 674 
,, • ,, Duru, 675 
,, white, 674 
Barnes's white, 681 
BeUe Bordelaise, 677 
„ de Cours, 681 
„ Paris, 697 



Stra 



berry, Black Prince, 697 
British Queen, 681 
Carolina superba, 682 
Centenary, 682, 683 
Chili, 678 
Commander, 697 
common Hautbois or Musky, 
677 

Comte de Paris, 697 
Crescent seedling, 683 
Docteur Morere. 683 

Veillard, 684 
Dr. Hogg, 697 

,, Xicaise, 697, 698 
Duke of Edinburgh, 698 
„ Malakoff, 684 

,, ,, Montrose, 6q8 
Edouard Lefort, 684, 685 
Eleanor, 698 
Elisa, 698 

Elton improved, 698 
Fontenay early small, 673 
General Chanzy, 685, 686 
Gloire de Zuidwyck, 699 
Hautbois, 677 
Hohenzollern, 699 
Jeanne d'Arc, 702 
Jucunda, 685, 686 
June Peach, 690, 691 
Kaiser Nikolas von Russland, 
699 

, Keen's seedling, 699 

King of the Earlies, 691, 692 

Koenig Albert, 699 
, La Chalonnaise, 699 
, ,, Constante, 685, 686 

, ,, Grosse Sucree, 699 
, ,, Productive, 703 
, Latest-of-AU, 699 

Laxton's Noble, 690 
, Leader, 700 

Le Czar, 686, 687 
, Louis Gauthier, 687 
,, Vilmorin, 688 

Lucas, 688 

Madame Mesle, 688, 689 

Marguerite, 689 

May Queen, 689, 690 

Montreuil, 673 

Napoleon IL, 690 

Perpetual Meudonnaise, 676 

Petit Pierre, 700 

Pine-Apple, 679 

President Carnot, 690 

Princess Dogmar, 700 
,, Royale, 691 

Richard Gilbert, 692 

Royal Sovereign, 693 

Sabreur, 692, 693 

Saint- Antoine de Padoue, 702 

scarlet Virginia, 678 

Schone Anhalterin, 676 

Sensation, 693, 694 

Sharpless, 694 

Sir Chas. Napier, 700 
,, Harry, 700 
,, Joseph Paxton, 694 

Souvenir de Bossuet, 695 



8o4 



INDEX 



Straivherry, St. Joseph, 701 
,, The Captain, 697 

Fan Gxmrd, 6S0, 681 
,, Vicomtesse Hericart de Thurv, 
696 

„ Victoria, 696 
,, wild or wood, 672 
,, ,, short-runnered, 67S 

,, Wonderful or Myatfs Prolific, 
696 

Strawberries, 671 

hyl rid, 679 
Succory or Chicory, 244 
Sunroot, 758 

Swede, Bredstone, the, 167 

„ or Turnip, Budlong's white im- 
proved, 167 
,, white, 167 
Swiss Chard, Lead Beet or, 347 
,, „ or Seakale Beet, 348 

„ ). silvery. 349 

„ red-stalked, or Chilian Beet, 

350 

,, ,, 'iVhite curled, 349 
Synchytrium endohioticum, 778 



Tanacetum vulgare, 704 
Tansy, 704 

Tare, One-flowered, or Auvergne Lentil, 

360 

Tarragon, 705 
Tetragonia expansa, 670 
Thistle, golden, 478, 704, 705 
Thyme, common, 706. 707 
Thymus vulgaris, 707 
Tornato, apple-shaped, purple or Acme, 725 
,, red, 726 

,, or Hathaway's 
Excelsior, 723 

„ Atlantic Prize, 718 
„ Beautv, 728 
„ Belle de Leuville, 72S 
,, of Massey, 716 

„ Blenheim, Orange, 728 
„ Champion, 719 

purple, 719 
„ scarlet, 719 

„ Chemin, early, 718 
„ Ted, early, 720 

„ Cherry, 727, 728 
„ Earliana, 728 

early large red or Pou-'elVs early, 

„ ,, Mayflower, 728 

„ ,, Optimus, 728 

Golden Queen, 723 
,, Trophy, 728 
„ Honor Bright, 728 
„ Jaune Petite, 72S 
,, King Humhert, 725, 727 
„ large red, 715 
,, ,, yellow, 72 8 

„ Laxton's Open-air, 717, 71S 
,. Marvel of the Market, 719 
„ Mikado, purple, 722 



Tomato, Mikado, scarlet, 722, 723 
or Love Apple, 707 
Peach, 729 

Pear-shaped or Fig, 726, 727 

,, yellow, 729 

Perfection, 720, 721 
Red Currant, 727 

,, early dwarf, 715 
round yellow, 725 
scarlet Ponderosa, 722, 724 

,, Turk's Cap, 729 
Stone, 729 

Strawberry or small white Mexi- 
can or Barbadoes Gooseberry, 
729 

,, tree, 716 

,, ,, upright large red, 716 

,, Trophy, 721, 722 
Tomatoes, black spot in, 780 
,, stripe of, 781 

,, defoliating. 775 
,, disease and its prevention, 713, 

7S0, 781 
,, for winter, 774 

light house for, 710 
,, market-garden culture, 714 

scalding^of. 781 
,, sleeping disease of, 781 
,, under glass, 710 
,, without manure, 711 
Tragopogon porrifolius, 642 
Trapa natans, 753 
Tropseolima majus, 448 
minus, 449 
tuherosmn, 449 

Turnip, 730 

Auvergne early red-top flat, 748 
/a^^,'74S 

Blackstone Chirk Castle, 743, 744 
Briollay, long, 749 
Dutch garden, early white flat, 740 

yellow, 744, 745 
early red-top flat garden, 741 

., stone or stubble, 746 
Epernay white round, 743 
Finland, yellow, 745, 746 
Fly, 7S2 

forcing half-long white, 734 
Freneuse, 736 

Globe purple-top white, 743 
,, strap-leaved white, 747 
Jersey Lily or early Six-weeks', 742 
Kashmir, scarlet, '743 
Limousin, 749 
long black, 737 
,, white Meaux, 745 
,, ,, yellow, 738 
Maltese yellow or golden, 745 
Milan white, 742 
M ontm-agny yellow flat purple-top, 
744 

Morigny gray, 737 
Xorfolk white cr Cornish white, 



"47 

Swede, 



white im- 



or hweae, Budlong' 

proved, 167 
Orange Jelly. 746 
strap-leaved Milan purple-top, 741 



INDEX 



805 



Turnip , strap-leaved red-top A m erican Stone, 
741 

„ white American stone, 

740 

„ Swedish, early flat yellow, 170 
„ „ !) purple-top, 167 

„ ,, ,, smooth, 168 

„ „ „ „ short-leaved, 

167 

„ ,, „ strap-leaved, 168 

„ oval, 169 

„ ,, Monarch, Tankard, 

or Elephant, 170 
„ „ turnip -rooted cabbage or, 
' 166 

„ „ white, 167 
„ ,, yellow, purple-top, 168 
,, Tankard, long green, 739 
„ red, 739 

„ Teltow, 736 

„ Vertus Croissy or round-leaved, 
742 

,, , „ half-long red-top, 735 
„ ,, or Jersey half-long white, 
735 

„ „ white carrot-shaped or 

pointed, 734 
„ Viarmes red-top, 736 
„ white carrot-shaped, 735 

winter hardy white, 736, 737 
,, yellow-fleshed, 775 
Tvimips, ciilture in market-gardens, 733 
diseases, 782 
„ long varieties, 734 
„ round or flat varieties, 740 
soil for, 733 



U 



Unicorn-plant, 752 



W 

Water Chestnut, 753, 754 

fruit of, 754 
„ ,, Cress, 259 

„ improved brown-leaved, 261, 262 
„ Melon, 432 

,, black-seeded, 434 
M >) Citron, 435 
,, ,, Cuban Queen, 435 

„ dark icing, 436 

,, early Rodosto, 433 
>j ). )) I, very early, 433 
„ ,, ,, Russian, 433 

,, Excelsior, 435 
,, ,, Florida Favourite, 435 

„ Gipsy, 435 
„ ,, Ice Cream or Peerless, 436 
„ ,, icing. Ice-rind, or straw- 
berry, 436 
„ ,, Mountain or Mountain 

Sweet, 436 
,, ,, Mountain Sprout, 436 
,, ,, orange, 436 
,, ,, Rattlesnake, 436 
„ ,, red-seeded, 435 
„ ,, ,, or red-fleshed, 

434 

„ ., round light icing, Ice-rind, 

strawberry, 436 
„ ,, Seikon, 434 
)> J' )» very early, 434 

,, Spanish, 435 
,, ,, Sweetheart, 436 
Winter Greens, purple or tall purple Kale, 
160 

Witloof, or large Brussels Chicory, 247 
Wood Sorrel, 660 

,, ., Deppe's, 660 
Woodruff, 754 
Wormwood, 754, 755 



Yalerian, African, 753 

Valerianella olitoria, 251 

Vegetable Diseases, 776, etc. 
Marrow, 329 
„ „ Italian, 331, 332 

,, ,, long yellow, 330 

Vetch, Chickling, 243 



Yam, Chinese, 755, 756 



Zea Mais, 400 



i>TUUed by Hazell, Watson dt Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury, England. 



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